Great teaching Rob. Creating the joint and then dissecting it for us to see the results. And… you’ve conveyed how valuable the holly tree is in my yard. 😊
Great tip! I do a lot of wedged through tenons , using your old way, and tried this on a lamp base today and seemed just as strong, looked great and was easier to do. Thanks Rob!
I was succesful modifying my cheap stanley handplane no5 I lapped it today and this weekend I modified it so it could take a 4mm thick blade. Now it works as you said it should. I can just push it without power, just keeping pressure from above that's all, and I get a very thin shaving in the full width. I credited you in my latest short, thanks a lot for your great videos
Very nice, Rob~! I like the look of both methods, but the "3 piece" version looks like less fuss. Will have to give it a go. Thanks for the great instruction~!!
My initial thought was that this was only decorative as the tenon had no more glue surface than an ordinary through tenon but then I realized that the only short grain to long grain connection was on the wedge the tenon will have long grain to long grain, well done!
I'm thinking most of the strength comes from the larger face long grain contact than the edges. Not sure it's really any easier than a traditional wedged tenon, plus I do like the traditional five alternating end grain than just the three here. This one does seem more decorative than a traditional though.
beautiful lesson Rob. I especially appreciate the small comments on why you approach each part the way you are doing it, the things to be careful of, etc. All those points translate to most chisel and saw work. You break the process down so that it becomes something that a lesser woodworker can feel somewhat confident that they can make that detail. I teach a few woodworkers too, but my skill with hand tools, (except gauges for carving) is not as good as yours, (few people can say they have your skills). But most of us CAN make beautiful creations. We just need to design the pieces carefully and make something that we hope will last more than 100 years....
I would take either one of the joints as far as appearance goes. The new method does look easier to make. I think they would rate pretty equal in strength.
Thanks Rob. I love this joint. Actually I like the look both ways, but the new way looks like it could save time so I'll b giving it a try. I really appreciate your teaching. You talk us through it carefully and thoroughly and without obnoxious music or or other fluff. Very well done indeed sir.
That does make the process a bit simpler. I do like the looks of the conventional process better though. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Great idea. My opinion is that the classic style of through wedged tenon is that the little bit of connection at the base was probably needed with lesser strength glues like hide glue. This isn't needed with modern PVA glue since it is stronger than the wood in most cases.
I can see how this would really tighten up my mortise and tenon joints. I'm not sure you need help with better fitting mortise and tenon. But it still seems the glue holding the wedge to the tenon is the same as the standard mortise and tenon joint. I'm not sure how this is stronger than standard mortise and tenon if I could ever make a perfectly fitting joint.
What I first saw it I thought the same, it does not look any stronger than a standard mortice and tenon. Even if the connections are small on the normal wedge ones they should have some holding strength (assuming they had not been broken off). But after thinking about it a bit I think the key might be the "tighten up my mortise and tenon joint" part. Hammering in a wedge will compress the tenon to the sides a bit more which might help make it stronger than a standard mortice and tenon. Thinking about it some more, I wonder if you could make it even stronger with a dovetail on the tenon and mortice but have straighter wedges. That would create a physical interlock above the compression and glue strength. Though any of these methods is probably still stronger than any of these joints need to be.
I don't understand it, Rob. In the best case scenario, the mortise would become one with the wedge. But then you have exactly an ordinary "classic" mortise and tenon joint! I guess that, if you are right, maybe the three joints are equally strong?
Don't think of the mortise combined with the wedges as the same as a straight mortise. the glue surfaces between the wedge and the mortise is often long to cross grain or perpendicular long to long grain. these don't get as good a bond as the wedge-to-tenon bond which is parallel long to long grain bond. think in terms of a widening tenon instead. It's an elegant solution. In reality, a classic mortise and tenon would be just as good in most cases. it's just a little bit less cool to look at.
@@idoReadme2 Sure it makes sense for aesthetics. I didn't think about the grain, your answer makes sense. Still, it requires that the connection of the mortise to the wedge to be extremely well made. Thanks!
Rob gives people value learning lessons and doesn’t constantly try and sell products like dusty co lumber company. And yet dusty has more views and subscribers than Rob. Typical doings of festool. Rob you’re the man. The Woodworking community needs to do better. Support men like Rob, ignore men like Dusty.
Hm. To be honest, I don’t think this method is so much different from a simple through mortise/tenon. Why? In the end, the wedges are just replacing the „missing“ wood in the mortise and making it a non-tapered mortise again. The only point I see is the extra lateral pressure on the tenon that makes a difference to a straight mortise. Apart from that: nice piece of work. And great craftsmanship as usual.
I’m not sure what you mean by that. The wedges are, in fact, wedges, filling a wedge shaped gap left in the mortise. Thus making it that must stronger against tensile forces.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hey Rob, thanks for the reply. I try to put it in a different way: looking at the mortise plus the wedges only, the result is a straight mortise. And in there goes the straight tenon. So apart from the extra pressure, there is no difference to a regular through m/t joint.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking sure. But the wedges make it straight again. Like all the fuzz with the taper didn’t happen. I am sure this method is stronger than a regular m/t, but only if there are gaps in the joint. Which can be easily closed by the wedges.
@nikolausreinke9966 I think you’re really missing the point. The tenon, with the wedges glued on, is 2” at the top, and 1-1/2” at the base. The mortise matches this shape. Which means in order to pull the tenon back through the mortise you would have to fit a 2” wide piece through a 1-1/2” wide mortise. Much stronger than a regular mortise with parallel sides and edges.
I like how thorough you are at showing every detail of your methods of work. You're a great teacher. I have seen this method of wedged tenons in a recently released video of the late Jim Kingshott showing variations of mortise and tenons (about 37 minutes in th-cam.com/video/_oZzdSM5_pk/w-d-xo.html) -- another wonderful teacher.
Great teaching Rob. Creating the joint and then dissecting it for us to see the results.
And… you’ve conveyed how valuable the holly tree is in my yard. 😊
What a wonderful half hour !! Thx. And I love your dovetail saw. 👍🏻
I love your teaching style and use of hand tools. Thank you! I'll try this out and keep practicing!
Very nice. This is the traditional way to wedge door tenons in Britain.
Your work really nice, Rob. Thank you for taking the time to produce this video!
Great tip! I do a lot of wedged through tenons , using your old way, and tried this on a lamp base today and seemed just as strong, looked great and was easier to do. Thanks Rob!
I live in a 1916 house and all the interior doors are original and have these unsplit through wedge tenons. Definitely strong enough!
I was succesful modifying my cheap stanley handplane no5
I lapped it today and this weekend I modified it so it could take a 4mm thick blade. Now it works as you said it should.
I can just push it without power, just keeping pressure from above that's all, and I get a very thin shaving in the full width. I credited you in my latest short, thanks a lot for your great videos
Just saw you in Orlando, learned a plethora of information. Working on eliminating the test fit hahaha thanks again.
What a fantastic joint and demonstration. One day, I will have the funds to buy your saw(s)!
Very nice, Rob~! I like the look of both methods, but the "3 piece" version looks like less fuss. Will have to give it a go. Thanks for the great instruction~!!
My initial thought was that this was only decorative as the tenon had no more glue surface than an ordinary through tenon but then I realized that the only short grain to long grain connection was on the wedge the tenon will have long grain to long grain, well done!
I'm thinking most of the strength comes from the larger face long grain contact than the edges. Not sure it's really any easier than a traditional wedged tenon, plus I do like the traditional five alternating end grain than just the three here. This one does seem more decorative than a traditional though.
Very very nice. Really neat joint!
thank you
Been waiting till I had the proper time to give ya rob.
Very nice Rob
“As you get a little older. I can’t see that line to save my life.” 😂
Thanks
What a boss!
beautiful lesson Rob. I especially appreciate the small comments on why you approach each part the way you are doing it, the things to be careful of, etc. All those points translate to most chisel and saw work. You break the process down so that it becomes something that a lesser woodworker can feel somewhat confident that they can make that detail. I teach a few woodworkers too, but my skill with hand tools, (except gauges for carving) is not as good as yours, (few people can say they have your skills). But most of us CAN make beautiful creations. We just need to design the pieces carefully and make something that we hope will last more than 100 years....
That is nifty. Never seen that design before.
I would take either one of the joints as far as appearance goes. The new method does look easier to make. I think they would rate pretty equal in strength.
Thanks Rob. I love this joint. Actually I like the look both ways, but the new way looks like it could save time so I'll b giving it a try.
I really appreciate your teaching. You talk us through it carefully and thoroughly and without obnoxious music or or other fluff. Very well done indeed sir.
What magnifying glasses are you wearing and is it for your presbyopia. And do they fit over your glasses or you remove them
That does make the process a bit simpler. I do like the looks of the conventional process better though. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Great idea. My opinion is that the classic style of through wedged tenon is that the little bit of connection at the base was probably needed with lesser strength glues like hide glue. This isn't needed with modern PVA glue since it is stronger than the wood in most cases.
I can see how this would really tighten up my mortise and tenon joints. I'm not sure you need help with better fitting mortise and tenon. But it still seems the glue holding the wedge to the tenon is the same as the standard mortise and tenon joint. I'm not sure how this is stronger than standard mortise and tenon if I could ever make a perfectly fitting joint.
What I first saw it I thought the same, it does not look any stronger than a standard mortice and tenon. Even if the connections are small on the normal wedge ones they should have some holding strength (assuming they had not been broken off).
But after thinking about it a bit I think the key might be the "tighten up my mortise and tenon joint" part. Hammering in a wedge will compress the tenon to the sides a bit more which might help make it stronger than a standard mortice and tenon.
Thinking about it some more, I wonder if you could make it even stronger with a dovetail on the tenon and mortice but have straighter wedges. That would create a physical interlock above the compression and glue strength.
Though any of these methods is probably still stronger than any of these joints need to be.
I don't understand it, Rob.
In the best case scenario, the mortise would become one with the wedge. But then you have exactly an ordinary "classic" mortise and tenon joint!
I guess that, if you are right, maybe the three joints are equally strong?
Don't think of the mortise combined with the wedges as the same as a straight mortise. the glue surfaces between the wedge and the mortise is often long to cross grain or perpendicular long to long grain. these don't get as good a bond as the wedge-to-tenon bond which is parallel long to long grain bond. think in terms of a widening tenon instead. It's an elegant solution. In reality, a classic mortise and tenon would be just as good in most cases. it's just a little bit less cool to look at.
@@idoReadme2 Sure it makes sense for aesthetics. I didn't think about the grain, your answer makes sense. Still, it requires that the connection of the mortise to the wedge to be extremely well made. Thanks!
Rob gives people value learning lessons and doesn’t constantly try and sell products like dusty co lumber company. And yet dusty has more views and subscribers than Rob. Typical doings of festool. Rob you’re the man. The Woodworking community needs to do better. Support men like Rob, ignore men like Dusty.
Dusty's got nothing on Rob. He's just a commercial, product pushing power tools user. Absolutely nothing about cabinet making with that guy. 😂
Hm. To be honest, I don’t think this method is so much different from a simple through mortise/tenon. Why? In the end, the wedges are just replacing the „missing“ wood in the mortise and making it a non-tapered mortise again.
The only point I see is the extra lateral pressure on the tenon that makes a difference to a straight mortise.
Apart from that: nice piece of work. And great craftsmanship as usual.
I’m not sure what you mean by that. The wedges are, in fact, wedges, filling a wedge shaped gap left in the mortise. Thus making it that must stronger against tensile forces.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hey Rob, thanks for the reply.
I try to put it in a different way: looking at the mortise plus the wedges only, the result is a straight mortise. And in there goes the straight tenon. So apart from the extra pressure, there is no difference to a regular through m/t joint.
@nikolausreinke9966 but this isn’t just a regular mortise, it’s wider at the exit than the entrance.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking sure. But the wedges make it straight again. Like all the fuzz with the taper didn’t happen. I am sure this method is stronger than a regular m/t, but only if there are gaps in the joint. Which can be easily closed by the wedges.
@nikolausreinke9966 I think you’re really missing the point. The tenon, with the wedges glued on, is 2” at the top, and 1-1/2” at the base. The mortise matches this shape. Which means in order to pull the tenon back through the mortise you would have to fit a 2” wide piece through a 1-1/2” wide mortise. Much stronger than a regular mortise with parallel sides and edges.
I like how thorough you are at showing every detail of your methods of work. You're a great teacher. I have seen this method of wedged tenons in a recently released video of the late Jim Kingshott showing variations of mortise and tenons (about 37 minutes in th-cam.com/video/_oZzdSM5_pk/w-d-xo.html) -- another wonderful teacher.
Uno
Quattro cinco ses
@@Poiutyxbnmc Te faltan dos y tres.
@@bradcofoorale