Sovol Klipper Screen ❄ Keep it cool with 3D printed fan case ❄ SV07/SV07+ Klipperized SV06/SV06+
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- 💜 STL model and step by step instructions, photos → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
📢 Update!
Video about the updated model with fan speed control → • Quiet or cool? Both! ❄...
🛒
Fan 4010 → s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlB...
Fan 3010 → s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFc...
Heat set inserts → s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ddm...
Make it quiet with buck converter → s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEa... (watch • Quiet or cool? Both! ❄... about installation)
✏ Rpi temperature section in printer.cfg (0:13):
[temperature_sensor Rpi]
sensor_type: temperature_host
min_temp: 5
max_temp: 95
🔇 Silent assembly guide → • Assembly of 3D Printed...
🔵 Sovol blue filament → www.sovol3d.com/products/sovo...
🎥 Related videos:
Sovol Klipper basic setup → • Sovol Klipper / SV07 P...
Advanced calibration → • SOVOL Klipper/SV07 Adv...
Cura 5.5 profiles → • Sovol SV07 Plus 3D Pri...
SV06+ Klipper Screen upgrade → • Sovol SV06+ Klipper Sc...
🛳 My STL models:
SV06 Plus dust cover → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Extrusion ruler → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Z-markers → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Klipper screen fan mod → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
📐Cura profiles for the Klipper Screen → bubble.dynalogix.eu/cura/
(it also has the contents of the thumb drive that came with the Klipper screen)
💰 Affiliate links:
► SV06 Plus Klipper screen → sovol3d.com/products/sovol-kl...
► Sovol SV07 Plus printer → sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
► Sovol SV07 printer → sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
► Sovol SV06 Plus printer → sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
► Sovol filament → sovol3d.com/products/rainbow-...
📑 Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:36 The problem
1:55 The fix
3:36 The Back
4:12 Surprise!!!
5:16 The Front
6:38 Printing
7:10 The result
8:25 Detailed assembly guide - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Very thoughtful design choices.
Downloaded and printed the back last night on my SV07+, today I got my 4010 fan and got everything connected. Have the 1.2 board so it was easy enough to connect it. Temps have gone from mid 60's to low 70's to 45-50 at idle. Major improvement. Thanks for the work you put into this!
Thanks for the feedback! It's great they've added that fan header in v1.2. Would have been even better if they'd added a fan too. But judging from the SV08 it would be so loud we would be replacing it anyway ;) Enjoy
Hello
It's a pleasure to participate in this project
Thank you for mentioning me😊😊
You were the initiator, thank you for all your contributions!!!
another great video, had my klipper screen for a couple of days, on my sovol sv06,, ill look at doing this, all set up now and working well, still got pressure advance to sort out
nice one dude
nice!!
Great work! Awating my SV07 and will get this upgrade... Thanks again!
Very high quality!
Thank you!
Nice work.
Congrat to 1k, good work mate!
Thank you! We are head to head :) I am always learning so much from your videos
Hi Gergo. I downloaded the models and thought: if you can customize with Sovol, I can do the same with my son's name. So, I went further: I asked my wife to write his name in a artistic way that he likes, took a picture, edited with Gimp and Inkscape, and extruded in the back plate. It is printing right now. Thanks for the video. Motivated me to learn a bit more and make some very satisfying stuff here.
Amazing! Please post a make when it's done! Thank you for sharing the idea :)
@@gerGoPrint3D the projection is not the best, probably due to the angle of the leds inside, I could improve but I'll keep as is. I'll post the make later for you to see the results. The most important is that the temperatures that were in the range of 50 high to 60 low, are now in the range of 40 degrees celsius. Pretty nice! Another important highlight: my unit (Sovol SV 07 Plus acquired in Nov 23) came with an antenna taped to the back side, so depending on your version, be careful when removing the back of the original case, and of course, carefully remove the taped antenna and stick to the new case again.
@@regis_assaoGood points there. Yes I should have discussed the antena in more detail (I did in the model description on cults3D). It's best to use a bit of heat to soften the glue and carefully remove the tape, so you can adhere it to the new back.
Hello, nice work!
It would be nice to have a independant stand for this screen as well, so you can put the screen where ever you whant. I prefer to hav the screen on the left side for example ...
Thanks for your great work and explanations.
Good tip, thank you! My short term plan is to provide an adapter to make it compatible with any GoPro type mounting. That already opens up your options to all kinds of existing clamps. But long term I can also try to add bracket options too. Thank you for the suggestion!
He just posted on cults 3d a mount for the 6, 6plus and 7 for left or right mounting a more sturdy version.
So you have a link to leds in the sovol screen thank you in advance
@@jameslee6881No link. Those lights are already lit inside, Sovol's original case just doesn't have openings for them to project out of the box. There are a number of status lights on the Makerbase board, my design only utilizes them for fun! I hope I understood your question correctly :)
@@gerGoPrint3D so once the new board is in place I'll see them . Thank you sir
Love the modification videos, a great resource on how to do things yourself. I see you have a led light on your 06 plus would have loved a video on that mod bec I see a lot of people asking about it and there seems to be no detailed guides on it at all.
Good tip. I put it on my todo list :)
Very nice? I ordered my SC06 Plus with Klipper screen yesterday. I’ll buy your model and get to printing!
Congrats! Very good choice!
keep making
Purchased with your link, can't wait to print it!
Thank you for the support! Let me know how it goes. I am here if you have any questions too! I recommend printing the latest variable speed version, then you can decide if you want to add an adjustible step down converter or not. See update in this video: th-cam.com/video/ub-Q_-zFCVU/w-d-xo.html
@@gerGoPrint3DIt's coming out beautifully right now! I'll send a picture once done.
@@gerGoPrint3DBack printed perfectly, issues with the front something about a floating cantilever?
@@pah1of284Orca Slicer? Please try to use the Orca project included. Which variant of the front are you going to print? EDIT: I guess it is the one with the SOVOL logo and text, don't worry about the warning, it shoudl print OK.
@@gerGoPrint3DIt seems it didn't matter - it printed perfectly!
Amazing work!! You are my hero! 🙂I've just startet in 3d design with OnShape and can imagine how much work and effort you are spending in die project! I've got my SV07 recently and also own a Mingda D2 since a few years. Your videos about the SV07 helped me so much! Thank you very much!!
So glad to be useful 😊 Thank you for your kind words and support! No experience with OnShape, but Fusion 360 is great for these types of projects, of course I also keep learning
@@gerGoPrint3D I purchaed the paperback and will at some point begin the journey of creating models any tips on being a beginner to it.
@@jameslee6881 I recommend the Fusion 360 tutorial videos by @cadcamstuff (Lars Christtensen) Other than this, just start with something simple and never be afraid to backtrack or even start over until you get it right!
I'll be buying this once my screen arrives. I wonder if my RPI fan I have will work.
If it's 30mm or 40mm (10mm wide) and 24V it should work ok. If it is 12V you can use a step down converter.
Great, searched this since i swa my MKS @ 76C, also it sometimes not responds anymore, good cooling is alwasy the best choice
Just finished printing this and installing it this afternoon.
Average operating temperature, before, was 60-62C.
After the modification, 40-42C.
Yes, over 60°C was way not ideal! Thank you for the feedback! Which fan option did you choose?
@@gerGoPrint3D I selected my own 4010 fan from Amazon. It takes less time to get the parts.
Plus, 4 of them for $6 USD and free shipping.
I'm still getting baffled by the other error I mentioned in another post.
"ERROR: MOVE OUT OF RANGE".
It only happens when Christians macro tries to calibrate the gantry before a print. So, for now, I have that feature turned off.
@@themisanthrope4646 Automatic gantry calibration on the SV06/Plus is not recommended anyway! I suggest the z-markers and my z-tilt via probe macro. I made two videos about them, one for the original z-markers, and a second, recently about the macro, which really takes it to the next level: th-cam.com/video/1suV1QlMu0E/w-d-xo.html
@@gerGoPrint3D I'm running an SV07 plus.
@@themisanthrope4646 Sorry I mixed that up. I am not sure what that would happen, it works correctly for me (though I am still using an older version of his additions and presets - "ain't broke don't fix it"). I recommend contacting him on Printables or in the Sovol Facebook group.
This is nice!! Just got my sv07 and you have been very helpful. I had a thought on this touch screen. What if we redesigned this case and extended the cables. Then we mount the touch screen outside of a heated enclosure so electronics stay cooler?
You can do that. I included a go-pro style mounting adapter in the Cults3D post, so you can use any go-pro compatible mounting solution for the screen. But with the fan it has no trouble staying cool on the printer either. I actually just have reduced the voltage for the fan to 5V, it is completely silent and still stirs enough air to keep the screen below 50°C even during prints. That's on the printer, with the bed heated to 90°C. Without the fan it was running 65°C+
Excellent work! Bought the files and ordered a fan! Did you happen to test that 2nd USB C port (I plan to test it myself once the fan comes in)? Is it functional? If yes can you please make a case that gives us access to it?
Not yet, but I am already planning to add an opening regardless :)
What is the "2x Knob Lock" part for? I don't see it in the assembly video and haven't figured out it's purpose. Otherwise this is a great build. Got it finished except for the fan which I should get this week sometime.
Okay, finally got down far enough in the instructions and see what and where they go.
did you show how to connect the fan? I am a newbie to this and always wondering how to power up the fans. I feel like a lot of projects don’t show it. Thank you! Keep doing these great videos
Please watch the video. You can see me plug in the fan. If you have v1.1 or newer Klipper Screen it is fairly easy, just connect the fan to the header on the board. If you have an older board you will either have to solder it to the power plug (I show this on one of the inlcuded photos on the cults3d page), or connect to the power supply. It's not so easy then. You can't really mess it up, if you mix up plus/minus the fan's just not going to spin, just reverse them. Just make sure to get 24V fan.
I recommend you to take off the back and look inside. If you see a FAN connector order a 24V 4010 fan from Aliexpress and search for "24v 4010 fan 2 Terminal Connector with 2pin-xh2.54". You can then print and install it easily.
I'd say even if you don't install a fan, this new back has more and better air flow than the original, especially if you have v1.0 with insufficient vent holes.
I bought it and saw your update today, question before I print. The hidden type c port, labed as download on the board. Is it fully usable? I would have thought that was to flash firmware only.
Also, what designing software do you use? A video on that would be great!
In my test the top USB port was able to power the screen, not much else. Other users asked for it, but I made it optional for a reason. Also we have to add an oversized opening because the socket is pretty deep in with the current case design. Finally, you would need to print both the front and back for it to be accessible, just printing a back will not give full access. So the short answer would be, no, don't bother with the top USB. (Thank you for the question, I will add these notes to the cults page...)
I use Fusion 360, I've already mentioned more simple techniques in some of my previous videos, but a complex design project like this is way outside the scope of my channel. There are very comprehensive Fusion 360 tutorials on youtube if you want to learn Fusion 360. I recommend Lars Christensen's series.
@@gerGoPrint3D im using my top usb for a led to illuminate the printing plate works like a charm.
Sorry for all the questions. I got everything printed and ready to put the klipper in the new box. What is the black wire that is taped to the inside side of the original box? It's hooked to the board. I have V1.2 board. Where is the fan hook up at also. I have pics if you would like to see....Thank You
Don't worry, I am happy to help! It is the wifi antenna. You can carefully peel it off from the old back and stick it to the same postion in the new back. Just make sure to peel it by the edges of the tape, not by the wire soldered to the coils. You can carefully heat it a little bit with a hair dryer to make it peel off more easily, but in all the cases I've seen so far it was pretty easy to slowly peel it off. To improve wifi reception, you can actually change this wire antenna into a full bulkhead antenna. There is a variant of the back with a hole for the bulk-head antenna. For me this little wire antenna has been enough for a secure connection though, but it depends on the signal strenth in the room where your printer is.
Thank you.@@gerGoPrint3D
Thank you for your great video. Is there any chance to control the Fan on screen? I can't manage to get this.
There is discussion about this in the facebook group. Unfortunately the Makerbase board is not open source and there is no information about controlling the newly added fan header for that. If you have the SV07/Plus Patric Gaines mapped out all the unused pins on the main board (inside the printer) which could be used to even pwm control a fan from there, but it would require routing an extra pair of cable. My current solution is simply adding a step down converter and running the 24V fan from just 5V which makes it perfectly inaudible and still stirs enough air to bring down the operating temp from 65 below 50°C. I'll see if it's necessary, but maybe I will change it to 12V later, which shoudl still make the fan very quiet and effective enough.
Thank you for the video and the file! What kind of step-down converter are you using, and how did you build it into the case? I built this and it definitely keeps the board cool, but it is so loud.@@gerGoPrint3D
@@bertholdb9037 It's a 12V converter. It fit in the box easily opposite from the side usb port. I've put an aliexpress link to the converter I bought, but any 24V → 12V should work.
Hello, your work is a very good approach, I think I will print it, I had a print crash this afternoon, I had to format the USB key provided by sovol, the print is put on pause and impossible to make it continue, moreover I am considering locking the screen on its base with a flexible tab, because it disengages too easily, I do not understand why it is not fixed in hard, because it does not There is no cable length, it's illogical and it's annoying for me, because I have to move with the machine from time to time to print somewhere other than my home. Thank you for your availability and your work
That's an important idea. I will add a "locking" variant to the attachment knobs which will let you attach the screen to the bracket in a more permanent manner. I have an idea already how we could implement something like this. Feel free to print and start using the screen as it is and an updated version of the knobs will follow soon.
@@gerGoPrint3D These are annoying details, especially since this brand in particular still sells these first machines today, I think that it is the only brand that does this, proof that their products are of quality, we will put that down to the account of the headlong rush of all brands towards Klipper, things have to go quickly to stay in the race.
I updated the model with a "Locking knob" option!! Print a pair of "knob locks" and "locking knobs" (instead of the regular knobs). After sliding in the screen you will be able to plug the holes with the *knob locks*. Turn them to lock them in place. A new included animated image shows locking mechanism.
is it really just compatible with a 4010 fan or a 4020 too? i'd love to use one from sunon (personal recommendation since they're quiet enough already that you don't need a buck converter) and the 4020 seem to be more accessible and cheaper then a 4010
4020 would hardly fit, and it would make the case too thick if we'd make it deeper 😞 Sorry. I think the buck converter and the cheapest 4010 undervolted is virtually silent and the two costs less than the model :) Make sure to watch my follow up video with the adjustable speed variant, set your best combination of cooling vs noise: th-cam.com/video/ub-Q_-zFCVU/w-d-xo.html
@@gerGoPrint3D thanks for the recommendation but I'll stick with a sunon fan. No need for a buck converter, silent and still great airflow. The quality and longevity aside.
Sunon is as big of a name as Noctua just more industrially focused. I use their stuff already and am very pleased. Here in Germany the 4010 24V costs ~8€ (found it after my comment)
@@julshg Oh, so you've found Sunon 4010? That's amazing! Yes, in that case you are golden! And €8 for such a high quality fan is a great deal!
Updates with sv06 and sovol klipper screen combo?😁😁😅
This fan case works with the Sovol Klipper Screen for SV06/Plus as well (I am using it too! You will see the printed screen case featured in future videos, e.g. I printed part of the chess set on my SV06 Plus, the thicker fan-case is visible in the video - watch that video from 3: 19)
@@gerGoPrint3D I mean a product review, test and tips for the klipper screen in overall:D (egy átfogó bemutató:D)
@@zola5584 Bocsi :) Oh sorry, I misunderstood you. I recommend my SV07/Plus videos, I have created very compreshensive setup guides which are now relevant to the Klipperized SV06/Plus as well! The Sovol Klipper Screen basically turns the superior SV06/Plus into an SV07/Plus, now the two have identical control systems. Only their motion system differ. I am actually working on an video on switching to Orca Slicer for the Klipperized SV06/Plus and SV07/Plus. Waiting for Chirstian Vick's v2.8 update for his Klipper Additions and Orca profiles.
@@gerGoPrint3D sv06 basically the best budget friendly prusa alternative, klipperize sv06 , i guess would be popular content…. And i know there is so many similar aspect with sv07 but not everything 😅 and I would be curious about mainsail system with the klipper screen too
Is there a way to limit the fan rpm in the code for the temperature_sensor RPI section to say 50%? I love the setup and it keeps the klipper board about 30c cooler, but I have not been able to find a quiet 4010 fan.
Good question! I am looking into this. It would be best if we could make it temperature controlled somehow. Might be a way.
@@gerGoPrint3D Modbot posted a video on that very thing recently but I wasn't able to get it to work. Not sure if the Sovol firmware recognizes the PID for the header on the board. Another option might be to run a dedicated fan wire to the control board. Looking at the pinout diagram for it there's plkenty of unused ports that one might be able to be readdressed and used to control the fan in the Klipper pad. Guess I have a weekend project now..
Would be curious as to what you have discovered on the temp control and pinout location I purchased and printed the 40x40 version with sovol logo on the back very intrested in the led mod.
And i just received a notification from cults3d on the new improved screen mount for the the 6,7 and plus model I'm hooked on your designs going now to purchase it and once the completed mount is printed I'll post my picks on cults3d to help support the design thank you sir. Fantastic top notch design this is how Sovol should have designed it from the beginning.
100% 5stars to you sir.
@gerGOprint3d any discoveries on the control I have the newest version of the board the 24volt noctua fan I ordered will arrive today from Amazon
@@jameslee6881No discoveries on the control, but one person simply added a 470ohm 1/4 watt resistor to slow the fan and it still delivers enough air at much lower noise levels. I might do this, or use a step down converter and drive it off 12V instead of 24v. I think the later is better for the fan, but we are talking about cheap fans, so I am not worried if it wears down in a year or two.
Hello, I'm planning on doing this mod. But can I ask what size jst connectors do I need to connect it to the updated board?
Thanks.
It's JST2.5
I connected the 30mm fan to the plug on the board but it's very loud so I want it to start only when it necessary, is there a way to turn it on and off in the printer.cfg file?
Unfortunately not. The MKS board is not documented and I am not even sure if its pin can be controlled from printer.cfg. What would be great is PWM control, but it is not possible at the moment. But there are 2 things you can do:
1) get a more silent fan. There are big differences.
2) add a step down converter and drive the 24V motor from 12V. At half speed it's still plenty cooling and much much more quiet.
I actually added a 5V step down converter. The 24V fan driven off 5V is completely silent, you cannot tell it is spinning. But even at this extremely low speed it lowers the operating temp from the original 65°C to below 50°C. This is enough for me now. Maybe in the summer I will switch to a 12V step down converter...
It would be nice if this could be PWM controlled from software, but if it cools enough at 5V or 12V and not noisy anymore that's a good solution.
Hi, question
My sv07 screen doesn’t have the conector for the fan.
How and where do i connect the fan?
Thanks in advance
Hi, please scroll through the pictures included with the model, there is one that shows how Vasyl connected his cooling fan to the solder points of the input plug. Alternatively you can get power from one of the unused headers of the MMU (you'll have to flip the printer on its side and get under the bottom cover, be careful where the MMU fan was connected (user manual shows it and the unused ones). A third option is to get power from one of the USB ports, including the unused Type-C on the top. I think Vasyls is the most practical though not too elegant. And the MMU header is the best in the sense that you can then control this fan from Klipper too (although I haven't tested either of the 3 options personally).
Hello gergo. I printed the 4010 Version, but havent found a Fan with the connector yet. Could you Name the connector Type so i can maybe buy jt separately?? 🙄 My Klipper Screen Runs at 61 to 64 degrees at the Moment. Got two shutdowns while printing. I assume it has Something to do with the Temperature of the Board. Unfortunately i have Not saved the Error Code.. 😔 maybe someone Here has the Same issue?
My fan came with a “4-pin molex to 2-pin adapter”
Is this printer still printing fine? Or does it require a lot of tinkering and calibrating?
The SV07+ is still one of my favorite printers, it has been printing well for over 11 months today. The only repair I had to do was 2 replaced POM wheels, because of users error. See my video on it here → th-cam.com/video/xKYpWhFqGZU/w-d-xo.html I can highly recommend the SV07/Plus! No need to calibrate at all, I am using Christian Vicks Klipper Printer Additions, which does everything automatically, it is a true send and forget printer, perfect first layers and no failed prints almost ever. → th-cam.com/video/R1-VU01-9Es/w-d-xo.html
@@gerGoPrint3D Ok, I appreciate the detailed reply. The 3 different printers I am looking at is the Ender 3 V3 SE for $160, the Sovol SV07 for $220, or the Sovol SV07 Plus for $310. I have no problem spending more money for the SV07+ if that means a better value. However, I was curious of those three of which seems to be the best value in your opinion. Also would you say the SV07+ is worth the $90 more for the larger print volume. Or do you find that you don’t need the print volume that big?
Sovol’s Plus printers address minor issues found in the original models. With the SV07/Plus, the differences are subtle. I have experience specifically with the Plus version. Its larger build surface allows for printing multiple smaller items in ‘per object’ mode. Additionally, the Plus machine features a more robust power supply, enabling quicker heat-up times. $220 is hard to beat though...
@@gerGoPrint3D Ok I see. I would probably go for the plus then despite the extra price difference. Also, I had a question about issues with the SV07/SV07+. I see a lot of people online saying it is a very good printer and prints good out of the box, and others saying it is terrible and needs lots of work to keep it running. I was curious if you think the printer is a hit or miss due to assembly, or if it is user error. Also, were you sent the printer for review, or did you buy it yourself. Thanks for all the help so far
What fan did you use for the back of the new case.
I am using locally purchased 4010 6500rpm cooling fans, they could be quieter, but peace of mind is more important for me. I tried to control the fan speed on the header but couldn't find any info. Might add step down converters to make the fans a bit slower to make them more silent.
@@gerGoPrint3D Thanks. I did go to cults and get the file and the z marker file. So I can print the whole new box and dont really need to put a fan in.. Is the fan 12v or 24. Thanks Again.
@@rickb942124v
can you show how and where you hooked the fan wires at. Thanks@@gerGoPrint3D
@@rickb9421 If you have the older v1.0 variant of the Makerbase Pad, it does not include a fan header. The easiest is to get the 24V from the power connector. Please see, I included a photo with the Cults3D model from one of the users who did this. You will need to solder the wires on the side where the screen is.
would this fit a 4020 fan too?
No, we would have to make it 10mm deeper. I feel it would be too thick that way. 10mm deep fans are recommended 4010 or 3010. Check my new video about the new model for including a step-down converter so you can use 12V fans or simply slow down 24v ones to make them virtually silent.
What are the other clips for in the download from Cults for?
Video clips? The part at the end of this video is also published separately without narration on how to assemble the case.
@@gerGoPrint3D
Sorry no, not video clips. I should have explained much better.
When building your Klipper case, (I only did the back for the fan), there are little parts like the wedges used to hold things together. There are also locking clips, I printed them but they were not needed or used in your assembly video.
@@garryhemming8114 The locking knobs are alternatives for the regular knobs to be used with the knob locks. In combination they can lock the Klipper Screen in place, so it doesn't slide out easily. Please read "Update 4" in the "Updates" section of the description on cults3D.
in cura after slicing the box below where it says save to library or scan disk. How can I install my printer name (sovol sv-07) I saw it in one of your videos
Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean. Can you give me a time code in the video?
@@gerGoPrint3D time stamp is 2:10 in video titled Sovol. Kipper / sv-07 Adavaanced tuning guide:PID, input shaper,E-step/XYZ stepper rotation distances
Then again in time code 2:32
Time stamp 2:32
@@davidcrandell9539 Oh, you mean the back plate for the print bed? (those huge letters that say SOVOL SV07+?) Sorry I only have those for the SV07 Plus and the SV06 Plus. Not for the smaller variants. They are included in the cura profiles referenced in my video about using sovol cura profiles in the newest versions of cura. But again, they are only for the Plus size variants at this point :(
Gute Arbeit, habe es auch gekauft und gedruckt, würde nur gern eine Front ohne die Inlays aus stützstruktur haben wollen, kannst du es einstellen?
Viele Grüße
Hi! Would you like the front piece without the SOVOL logo and without the word "SOVOL" = all clean? Which variant? The heat-set insert or the hex-nut? Tapered or boxy?
@@gerGoPrint3Ddas Sovol bekomme ich gut raus, Logo und Linien sind schwierig.
Ich habe das boxed Teil mit den Muttern gedruckt
Danke für deine Rückmeldung
@@christofd5857I added a totally clean version
@@gerGoPrint3D Danke für deine Mühe, tolles Teil