Thank you so much for this upload, it really helped my husband to install the toilet without a lot of cursing going on ! He’s Italian you know what I mean lol!
There were some parts of the installation (particularly the tank installation) that just aren't covered in other videos. Thanks for the thorough guide, which you managed without belaboring any specific topic and dragging out the video beyond what's needed.
The response to this video showed me how important it is to not bore folks and keep it moving. I’ve tried to implement it in almost all of my other videos. Thank you for the feedback! And thanks for watching 👍🏽
Thank you for talking about both bolts particularly the shorter bolt. Every video on this type of install didn't mention those bolts in depth and the connectors associated . It appears I didn't get instructions and I was missing the 2 white connectors with the shorter bolts which was frustrating. To complicate the matter I couldn't find a video that address my issue until I viewed yours! Thanks again!
Thanks for the skirted installation. I wasn't sure how it worked, after watching your video I am going with a skirted for a cleaner look. Reviews that are negative seem to be about their installation. You got that solved!
Excellent video, I just installed one and it went very smoothly. One thing that could help future viewers is to use a shop vac to get the remaining water out of the bowl and tank, it didn't spill a drop after I moved mine out to the backyard.
Thought I would add a few notes as I just installed mine and had some small issues that required some thought. 1) the toilet sticks out a bit to the sides as it is skirted. This complicated my install because it sat in such a way I could not touch the water supply valve. I added a 2nd vertical 1/4 turn shut off on top. I couldn't move my shut off because it was already an extension and would have required me to open up my wall. Note that if you do this, you want to get a 9" supply line (10" would be better). The standard 12": was too long. 2) to remove my old toilet I flushed, then put in old towels to get the remaining water. I used liquidlock (let sit sit 4-5 minutes to get the water in the tank. Removing the toilet then was easy 3) Kohler does a lousy job at describing how to install. Watch a couple of videos 4) one thing that worked well to sit the toilet was using some painters tape to indicate where the tube was and then the same on the toilet so I could align and have it easily fit Good luck all
After you turn off the water supply and before you unbolt the toilet from the floor, quickly pour a 5 gallon bucket's worth of water into the bowl. It will create enough force to suck almost all the water out of the toilet thus making it possible to remove the toilet without spilling water.
Super helpful video helped us install our gleam. But we keep having an issues with water leaking at the base (front) of the toilet. Be took it off, the floor around the main drain area was dry…reconnected. Still, slow leaking and pooling at the base. Any ideas?
Di your toilet have the weird seal like the toilet in this video, or was it a standard toilet that just uses a wax ring and now rubber/plastic connector to the toilet bowl?
I have the problem where the water supply slowly dripping out, I quickly connected it back to my toilet. How to fix the shut off valve before it gets worse?
Are you planning on going a long time before you install the new toilet? You can search for a cap for the shut off valve. Also you could just shut off the main supply to the house and replace that shut off for the toilet with a new one. If you are only going a few days before you replace the toilet then just put the end of the supply hose in a small bucket.
@@TheAdamConners Thanks for the reply. Now I know how to deal with it. The problem is always in the back of my mind. I wonder if it would burst someday.
@@catdog605 Never say never,haha. Murphy’s law certainly applies to me and my projects. Just be prepared for the worst! Thanks for the support! I know you’ll knock it out 👍🏽
You mentioned the weight of the toilet seats the flange on the wax ring, not so in this case. It's the bolts on the adapter itself that park it. The weight of the toilet is born all the way to the floor and sits on it's skirt. The cool thing is the toilet is less likey to break the wax seal if it rocks a bit.
My lower eyelids are down to my belly button after hours of researching the Kohler Corbelle. Annnnd after hours of that (and finally ordering two of them form HD) I discovered that no one talks about the location of the water supply which may be blocked by the skirt. Kohlers own install instructions vary on the width of the base depending on whose website you pick from, even Kohlers. The install outline shows that they want the water supply to be 8" off the stool centerline, I'm at 6 1/2". SInce the stool tapers in I may squeak by. More interesting is the rough out distances are different in each of my bathrooms. One's at 11 1/2", the other at 13". Plumbers 😒
Do you recommend caulking the base of the toilet to the floor? Other videos suggest doing this but leaving the back uncaulked for any leakage to show up.
Seems like a preference thing to me. The toilet will work just fine either way. If you did caulk around it I can understand why they do it as you mentioned. But it could still have a leak and water not come out of the backside.
So, I would like to buy this toilet but I'm really weirded out not by the tightening down mechanism but by the fact that there's just the naked porcelain tramway that goes into the plastic lower trapway assembly. What if the toilet backs up? There's no gasket to tighten in order to make a waterproof seal, as far as I can tell. Is there some sort of rubber gasket on the top of the plastic assembly to seal the connection? How has the reliability been? Free of leaks inside the skirted area?
Yea it’s not a traditional design so I understand the concern. We’ve had 2 working fine for 18 months now. We had to do the floors so I went ahead and did the toilets. Needless to say I was definitely checking for leaks every day at first lol.
I wish I could reply with a photo… But, the underside of the commode has a male like orifice that rests in side the female black seal once the bowl is pressed onto the seal.
Was your existing flange flush with your finished floor or a bit below? I have an old cast iron flange I have to drill out before installing a PVC insert and want to know if it goes flush with floor or slightly proud of floor
@@TheAdamConners Interesting, I'll have to check out the flange height vs the tile height. I'm putting the new flange right on the concrete slab subfloor then I'll probably have to get an extension ring
@@BanishMee us too. Basically, it's bc this is a terrible design and it's a crapshoot (sorry for the pun) as to whether it will tighten properly or not. We won't tolerate a non-solid grip so it will be a return :/ great installation video though.
How are you able to make sure it all lined up when you put the toilet on? We thought we had it on but than it started leaking around the bottom before we sealed it up
It was pretty easy if I remember correctly. The bowl had to be pushed down to sit correctly. Is it possible you may have not tightened it down properly? Did you replace the wax o ring?
I gotta install a couple of those dual flush jobbies. The instructions actually say "watch the video FIRST." Yours is WAY clearer and easier to understand than Kohler's. And of course the skuzzier bathroom toilet supply line does NOT have a shut-off valve. Why do people do this kind of nonsense? Houses should have a cut-off at EVERY SINGLE water supply line.
@@TheAdamConners Did get the install done. I suggest if you're installing that kind that's flush mount (meaning the base hides the water drain, and you have to drill mounting brackets to the floor) then spend the extra bucks and get a permanent, non-wax sealing ring. The first install, good thing I had two was seals lying around, because (being way heavier than a standard toilet base) Teen Boy Assistant had it slip out of his hands and squish the wax. The second one, I looked at the $3 wax, the $8 permanent, went back and forth for about 2 minutes, threw up my hands and got the permanent. Much less drama at install, and both toilets are flush with the wall, flushing with no leaks, and I am flush with success. :)
Looks so easy, doesn't it. But you may need to tear up the wall to move the water valve before the bowl will fit. Once you've got that covered, since you can't see the connection to the floor mounted tube, you need to use "The Force" to figure out where it is. A small piece of painter's tape on the wall aligned with the center of the tube center will make it easier. Once you find it, push down on the toilet and you will feel it slide in. The big problem, at least with the Transpose model, is installing the tank. There is no plastic clip like the one in this video to hold the bolts. The bolts on the Transpose are integrated with rubber plugs factory installed in the tank. The bolts are much too short, and the plugs holding these bolts are not fully seated, compounding the problem. I needed to use a drift to properly set them, then compress the plugs using the mounting washers and nuts. Even with the tank unmounted there was barely enough exposed thread to get the nut started when I began. After several rounds of compressing, then backing off, I was able to get just barely enough exposed thread through the mounting holes on the bowl to get the tank mounted if I leaned on the tank over the bolt. Part of the problem is caused by poor factory molding. There is a hump in the porcelain where the tank gasket meets the bowl, preventing the gasket from soft recessing into the bowl. This is not a mistake; we bought 2 of these toilets, and they both have the defect. A look at the Lowes website shows that this is a common defect. I have removed and replaced many, many toilets over the years and, all in all, this was a total PITA! The pictorial directions that come with the toilet are pretty much just a bad joke. One TH-camr showing an install said they were only good for sliding under the installed toilet to check for leaks! He was right!
@@TheAdamConners Yeah, it was an adventure! But my wife is happy with the results. Now I get to install the second one. Because there is a heat register behind that toilet, which works just fine with a regular toilet, I'll have to use a 10 inch rough in adapter. It's "only" 90 bucks for a short piece of plastic pipe. At least I won't have to move the water supply for that one. Manufacturers ought to make their designers do an actual install! Maybe that would wake them up?
@@tombartlett2519 typical engineer vs the world haha. Maybe you should do videos? Hey why not, if you have the situation, use it to your advantage and save someone else the headache. Praying for a nice finished project and a happy wife 👍🏽
@@TheAdamConners It looks pretty straight forward. Certainly easier than modifying the current drain with a standard extender. Pretty much just mounting the shorter pipe to the current drain, then drilling 2 holes into the subfloor for the toilet attachment. Don't think I've ever drilled tile before, but it doesn't look like rocket science. It will be a few weeks, but I'll try to remember to report in when it's done. As for helpful hints, the tape on the wall as a centering guide really helped line things up. When it connects you can definitely feel it slide into the gasket. No leaks, so far. The wife thinks it's great because it's easy to dust. Since we have someone who comes in to dust, I'm not sure why this in important, but I'm smart enough not to ask!
Thank you for this video, this one was the most clear and straightforward for this toilet!
@@YoPierrrr appreciate that feedback! Thanks for watching 😄
Thank you so much for this upload, it really helped my husband to install the toilet without a lot of cursing going on ! He’s Italian you know what I mean lol!
😂😂😂😂 yes I do! 🤌🏽
There were some parts of the installation (particularly the tank installation) that just aren't covered in other videos. Thanks for the thorough guide, which you managed without belaboring any specific topic and dragging out the video beyond what's needed.
The response to this video showed me how important it is to not bore folks and keep it moving. I’ve tried to implement it in almost all of my other videos. Thank you for the feedback! And thanks for watching 👍🏽
I think we wore out your video. Excellent. Great help. Only took us 5 hours, don't ask. Your video was very helpful.
Thanks a lot! …and don’t sweat it. All that matters as you got it done, good job.!
Thank you for talking about both bolts particularly the shorter bolt. Every video on this type of install didn't mention those bolts in depth and the connectors associated . It appears I didn't get instructions and I was missing the 2 white connectors with the shorter bolts which was frustrating. To complicate the matter I couldn't find a video that address my issue until I viewed yours! Thanks again!
So glad you were able to get it done and finally use the bathroom! 😁
The gray water color is dye to see if you have any leaks some tanks have blue dye verifying with a color not clear for first few flushes.
Thanks for the skirted installation. I wasn't sure how it worked, after watching your video I am going with a skirted for a cleaner look. Reviews that are negative seem to be about their installation. You got that solved!
We’re a year in and love them so far. No problems yet.
Excellent video, I just installed one and it went very smoothly. One thing that could help future viewers is to use a shop vac to get the remaining water out of the bowl and tank, it didn't spill a drop after I moved mine out to the backyard.
Yes! That’s a great idea. Thanks for sharing 👍🏽
You have no idea how helpful this video was to us thank you so so much
Absolutely!! Thanks for the love 👍🏽
This helped me put a toilet in for my mom. Thank you !
You are very welcome!
What was the size of the supply line you used. The part the screws to the tank.
Thought I would add a few notes as I just installed mine and had some small issues that required some thought.
1) the toilet sticks out a bit to the sides as it is skirted. This complicated my install because it sat in such a way I could not touch the water supply valve. I added a 2nd vertical 1/4 turn shut off on top. I couldn't move my shut off because it was already an extension and would have required me to open up my wall. Note that if you do this, you want to get a 9" supply line (10" would be better). The standard 12": was too long.
2) to remove my old toilet I flushed, then put in old towels to get the remaining water. I used liquidlock (let sit sit 4-5 minutes to get the water in the tank. Removing the toilet then was easy
3) Kohler does a lousy job at describing how to install. Watch a couple of videos
4) one thing that worked well to sit the toilet was using some painters tape to indicate where the tube was and then the same on the toilet so I could align and have it easily fit
Good luck all
Thanks for painting the wall….it was making my teeth itch. 😁
No idea how I even thought about that lol. You’re welcome.
So wonderful-thanks for the video-much simpler than the paper instructions 🙄
You are most welcome 👍🏽. Thanks for the support!
Would the pressure of a plunger cause that seal to leak?
It’s possible if the clog is passed the seal. If the clog is just too much toilet paper in the bowl for example, then likely not.
Would it be the same install for KOHLER Transpose White Elongated?
If it’s an elongated skirted toilet then yes. If it’s just a standard elongated toilet it will be different in how the bowl is mounted to the floor.
Awesome video. Thanks so much! You walked me through every step!
So glad to help! Thanks for commenting and the view 👍🏽
do all skirted toilets need this flange adapter?
I cannot confirm this. This is the only skirted toilet I’ve ever installed, so I am not positive. But I would assume yes.
After you turn off the water supply and before you unbolt the toilet from the floor, quickly pour a 5 gallon bucket's worth of water into the bowl. It will create enough force to suck almost all the water out of the toilet thus making it possible to remove the toilet without spilling water.
It still move a little bit. Is that what the caulking is for?
No, caulking doesn’t help that. Is your floor level?
@@TheAdamConners yeah it level. I tightened the bolts as much as I could but it still moves a little bit at the front.
Super helpful video helped us install our gleam. But we keep having an issues with water leaking at the base (front) of the toilet. Be took it off, the floor around the main drain area was dry…reconnected. Still, slow leaking and pooling at the base. Any ideas?
Di your toilet have the weird seal like the toilet in this video, or was it a standard toilet that just uses a wax ring and now rubber/plastic connector to the toilet bowl?
I was having the same issue. I installed one today but the water was coming out the side of the toilet. I also noticed it moved when I sit on it
What is the rubber "O" for in the kit? I'm not talking about the wax ring. Its rubber gasket in the tank mounting kit.
Maybe for the tank to mount to the bowl? Sorry it’s been a while since I did this install.
I have the problem where the water supply slowly dripping out, I quickly connected it back to my toilet. How to fix the shut off valve before it gets worse?
Are you planning on going a long time before you install the new toilet? You can search for a cap for the shut off valve. Also you could just shut off the main supply to the house and replace that shut off for the toilet with a new one. If you are only going a few days before you replace the toilet then just put the end of the supply hose in a small bucket.
@@TheAdamConners Thanks for the reply. Now I know how to deal with it. The problem is always in the back of my mind. I wonder if it would burst someday.
@@catdog605 Never say never,haha. Murphy’s law certainly applies to me and my projects. Just be prepared for the worst! Thanks for the support! I know you’ll knock it out 👍🏽
You mentioned the weight of the toilet seats the flange on the wax ring, not so in this case. It's the bolts on the adapter itself that park it. The weight of the toilet is born all the way to the floor and sits on it's skirt. The cool thing is the toilet is less likey to break the wax seal if it rocks a bit.
My lower eyelids are down to my belly button after hours of researching the Kohler Corbelle. Annnnd after hours of that (and finally ordering two of them form HD) I discovered that no one talks about the location of the water supply which may be blocked by the skirt. Kohlers own install instructions vary on the width of the base depending on whose website you pick from, even Kohlers. The install outline shows that they want the water supply to be 8" off the stool centerline, I'm at 6 1/2". SInce the stool tapers in I may squeak by. More interesting is the rough out distances are different in each of my bathrooms. One's at 11 1/2", the other at 13". Plumbers 😒
Do you recommend caulking the base of the toilet to the floor? Other videos suggest doing this but leaving the back uncaulked for any leakage to show up.
Seems like a preference thing to me. The toilet will work just fine either way. If you did caulk around it I can understand why they do it as you mentioned. But it could still have a leak and water not come out of the backside.
I've used a bead of rope caulk around the base for years, leaving a small opening in the back. It squishes flat and sets the stool rock solid.
Thank you!
You are welcome Maud! Thanks for the feedback.
So, I would like to buy this toilet but I'm really weirded out not by the tightening down mechanism but by the fact that there's just the naked porcelain tramway that goes into the plastic lower trapway assembly. What if the toilet backs up? There's no gasket to tighten in order to make a waterproof seal, as far as I can tell. Is there some sort of rubber gasket on the top of the plastic assembly to seal the connection? How has the reliability been? Free of leaks inside the skirted area?
Yea it’s not a traditional design so I understand the concern. We’ve had 2 working fine for 18 months now. We had to do the floors so I went ahead and did the toilets. Needless to say I was definitely checking for leaks every day at first lol.
That looked way harder. How does the toilet drain create a seal with the black part?
I wish I could reply with a photo… But, the underside of the commode has a male like orifice that rests in side the female black seal once the bowl is pressed onto the seal.
Was your existing flange flush with your finished floor or a bit below? I have an old cast iron flange I have to drill out before installing a PVC insert and want to know if it goes flush with floor or slightly proud of floor
Mine was flush with the floor, but if you are replacing it instal It about a quarter inch above your finished floor.
@@TheAdamConners Interesting, I'll have to check out the flange height vs the tile height. I'm putting the new flange right on the concrete slab subfloor then I'll probably have to get an extension ring
I can't seem to tighten the side bolts enough to keep it from rocking. What do you suggest?
First though is maybe the bolts aren’t screwing into the bottom correctly?
Second thought is maybe the flange on the floor properly isn’t secured?
Did you ever figure out how to tighten the bolts? I am having the same issue.
@@BanishMee us too. Basically, it's bc this is a terrible design and it's a crapshoot (sorry for the pun) as to whether it will tighten properly or not. We won't tolerate a non-solid grip so it will be a return :/ great installation video though.
@@TheAdamConners great video, just a lousy design that won't stand the test of time, unfortunately.
How are you able to make sure it all lined up when you put the toilet on? We thought we had it on but than it started leaking around the bottom before we sealed it up
It was pretty easy if I remember correctly. The bowl had to be pushed down to sit correctly. Is it possible you may have not tightened it down properly? Did you replace the wax o ring?
12” rough from finished wall or framing?
It’s always measured during the rough in.
What is the single small black gasket for? I see that you didn’t use it?
If I remember correctly it may have been a seal for the water supply line. Since it didn’t come with that, the we bought already had a seal in it.
Is this a 10 or 12 inch center
It's been so long I can't remember 100% but I believe it's 12 inch.
Sorry for the very late response. TH-cam didn't push a notification of your comment.
I gotta install a couple of those dual flush jobbies. The instructions actually say "watch the video FIRST." Yours is WAY clearer and easier to understand than Kohler's. And of course the skuzzier bathroom toilet supply line does NOT have a shut-off valve. Why do people do this kind of nonsense? Houses should have a cut-off at EVERY SINGLE water supply line.
No shut-off is not good at all! I agree with you. All fixtures should have a shut-off.
@@TheAdamConners Did get the install done. I suggest if you're installing that kind that's flush mount (meaning the base hides the water drain, and you have to drill mounting brackets to the floor) then spend the extra bucks and get a permanent, non-wax sealing ring. The first install, good thing I had two was seals lying around, because (being way heavier than a standard toilet base) Teen Boy Assistant had it slip out of his hands and squish the wax.
The second one, I looked at the $3 wax, the $8 permanent, went back and forth for about 2 minutes, threw up my hands and got the permanent. Much less drama at install, and both toilets are flush with the wall, flushing with no leaks, and I am flush with success. :)
Good job bud! Very helpful…
Very glad it helped you! Thanks for commenting 👍🏽
Well done video. Toilet looks nice, I want one. Is that the Kohler Gleam?
This is not the Gleam model, but I’m confident it’s the same install process. Thanks for the support 👍🏽
Dont buy , these toilets are the worst.
@@terdferguson1736 Would you like to help us all out and explain? Did something go wrong?
Very helpful. Thank you.
It’s a pleasure to assist you all. Give us a follow. We have some more projects coming up 👍🏽
Looks so easy, doesn't it. But you may need to tear up the wall to move the water valve before the bowl will fit. Once you've got that covered, since you can't see the connection to the floor mounted tube, you need to use "The Force" to figure out where it is. A small piece of painter's tape on the wall aligned with the center of the tube center will make it easier. Once you find it, push down on the toilet and you will feel it slide in.
The big problem, at least with the Transpose model, is installing the tank. There is no plastic clip like the one in this video to hold the bolts. The bolts on the Transpose are integrated with rubber plugs factory installed in the tank. The bolts are much too short, and the plugs holding these bolts are not fully seated, compounding the problem. I needed to use a drift to properly set them, then compress the plugs using the mounting washers and nuts. Even with the tank unmounted there was barely enough exposed thread to get the nut started when I began. After several rounds of compressing, then backing off, I was able to get just barely enough exposed thread through the mounting holes on the bowl to get the tank mounted if I leaned on the tank over the bolt.
Part of the problem is caused by poor factory molding. There is a hump in the porcelain where the tank gasket meets the bowl, preventing the gasket from soft recessing into the bowl. This is not a mistake; we bought 2 of these toilets, and they both have the defect. A look at the Lowes website shows that this is a common defect.
I have removed and replaced many, many toilets over the years and, all in all, this was a total PITA! The pictorial directions that come with the toilet are pretty much just a bad joke. One TH-camr showing an install said they were only good for sliding under the installed toilet to check for leaks! He was right!
That is quite the story lol. Sounds like you ran into every issue or problem possible. 😂😂😂
@@TheAdamConners Yeah, it was an adventure! But my wife is happy with the results. Now I get to install the second one. Because there is a heat register behind that toilet, which works just fine with a regular toilet, I'll have to use a 10 inch rough in adapter. It's "only" 90 bucks for a short piece of plastic pipe. At least I won't have to move the water supply for that one. Manufacturers ought to make their designers do an actual install! Maybe that would wake them up?
@@tombartlett2519 typical engineer vs the world haha. Maybe you should do videos? Hey why not, if you have the situation, use it to your advantage and save someone else the headache. Praying for a nice finished project and a happy wife 👍🏽
@@TheAdamConners It looks pretty straight forward. Certainly easier than modifying the current drain with a standard extender. Pretty much just mounting the shorter pipe to the current drain, then drilling 2 holes into the subfloor for the toilet attachment. Don't think I've ever drilled tile before, but it doesn't look like rocket science. It will be a few weeks, but I'll try to remember to report in when it's done. As for helpful hints, the tape on the wall as a centering guide really helped line things up. When it connects you can definitely feel it slide into the gasket. No leaks, so far. The wife thinks it's great because it's easy to dust. Since we have someone who comes in to dust, I'm not sure why this in important, but I'm smart enough not to ask!
I could swear that you put that wax on upside down.
It gets all smashed up no matter which way you put it on there.
We did all that and still got leakage … 🫤
Well, I hate that for you. Can you tell where the water is coming from?
What was the size of the supply line you used. The part the screws to the tank.