You and Vince Venturella are the perfect complement for me. You explain things in high speed and thus can give alot of neat ideas to pick and choose from. And the ones I wanna explore deeper? There is a 99.93% chance Vince has a 25 minute video about it.
@@mh9590 yeah his videos are long and, for a TH-cam video, pretty slow. So I dont watch them all L mostly watch particular ones . So like I said. Zumikito kinda guides me to what I wanna know more about and try out. And Vince gives me the indepth guide
Yes, agree perfectly. Vince and Zumikito are the two channels that I watch most for the education aspect, because they do things in the opposite fashion. Fast and dirty for a quick reminder or visual demonstration, and Vince for the deep "why and how"s. I also like Squidmar and Ninjon because they're both somewhere in between but also focus on entertainment value as well, which I appreciate.
The thing that helped me the most is just... Mindset. I have really shaky hands, which makes painting pretty hard at times. My paintjobs have always just been basecoat, wash, done. I thought that was all I could do - But the more you paint, and the more you just try to do different techniques like glazing, edge highlighting etc, you will get better - Guaranteed. Don't let a model you're not happy with stop you from painting any more. Keep learning and researching techniques and you WILL improve! :)
Dude you are teaching me so much so quickly! So many other videos have so much filler and longwinded intros, you keep it concise and I actually pay attention and retain the information because the whole video is non stop useful points. Painting my first Tzeentch Daemons and Thousand Sons models right now, with your help its going way better than I thought it would!
One of the biggest and best changes I’ve made to painting models is painting volumes. It’s taken a lot of practice but it’s makes things look so much better
Little did you know, you're the real painting God. Seriously I've watched a lot of painters in the past but none of them comes close to conveying information this fast and this clearly. There's also the fact that you don't go into "youtuber mode" and hype the living shit out of every new random paint or product just because it would get views which I REALLY appreciate.
My god, how nice it is to watch a video without an annoying animated intro followed by a prolonged "dialogue" with the audience about what you are going to do. THANK YOU, THIS IS AMAZING!!!
Loved the video, I have been out of the hobby for over 5 years and this helped me relearn things I have forgotten and even make my older models better. Thank you.
8. Focus your volume, contrast, and highlights on the shoulders/head/top half of your model. It draws the eye of the viewer and is perfect for batch painting high numbers of models. 60 guardsmen with everything highlighted is redundant and unneeded as they will die very quickly. But, taking a little extra time to improve the top half will be faster and give you the most value for your time. Keep the everything part for special/hero models, it'll make them stand out even more when adjacent too the rest of your army.
I'm learning well, I've just started a Seraphon (lizardmen) army. Flat black primed it, I'm using it as a guide for some black lining for the accessories later lm, my base is a nice dark green mud to compliment the bright skin tone of the soft skin, that I'm using a light cream as the highlight colour for an orange pink tone. The bright colours of the scales, which also is using the black prime to build up from, are using a mix of a dark tone and light tone of the same colour and the heads, shoulders and back will have the lightest points. The accessories will be a nice cyan with heavy black lining. Already gotten to the skin tone for many of them but it's already looking nice, and the test model was very helpful on how far to push cetain parts compared to others.
Had my first experience with contrast first hand yesterday. I painted a guys hand all pasty white because I wanted him to look ghoulish, I then highlighted the joints in his hand with a brighter white. I was amazed with how much volume it gave it. Its a 3d object but without that highlight it looked flat and you couldn't really appreciate it but now its easy to see how his hand is flexing
Minor addition: Dark Greys are also a neat base color. It provides similar advantages like black does (no shining throu on spots that you have forgotten to paint) but the shadows end up less dark and thus provide a bit less contrasts which might be desirable
Always love your stuff. Great job as always. Even the things I already knew, this was a great reminder of how important and impactful the little things are.
Marvelous Tips my dude! Specially the saturation one! This combines with the 2° tip. Your main light + Reflection of the sky should be the way you create your shadows (blues / greens* [reflection of the ground] ) and your light (Light orange / Yellow). ps. your beard is not stupid. it's beautiful.
So just wanna add a tip for anyone who struggles with picking or imagining a position for lighting to highlight. Get one of those cheap swiveling desk lamps and a low watt bulb and place your artifical sun at whatever angle you like
Oooh, Kingdom Death models. Hope you're going to be painting some of those in a future video, unless you already have and I just haven't gone back to see them yet. Awesome video, and yes, be able to clean up oil wash or panel liner before you use it. I did not, and I have twelve battletech minis to repaint.
I'd just like to wish good luck to people trying to base orange or yellow on top of a black primer :) Not even a zenithal will save it, because the black informs those colors and gives you ugly shades. What you want to do is prime white, and then it depends - Yellow: Underspray (reverse zenithal)/preshade lightly with pink, then base the model with yellow. The pink will inform the yellow and give you darker yellows that look more natural than yellow on black. Orange: Underspray/preshade *heavily* with pink, then base in yellow, then base in orange. The extra layer reduces the shades, so you want more pink. You should underspray with brown (like a vallejo beasty brown) to post-shade the orange, if you want it even darker. Then you paint from there with a brush. With white it's fine, I'd just zenithal with a cold or warm white rather than a pure white, so you can see what you're painting and you have somewhere to go up from. Alternatively, you just don't paint yellow or orange models. Trust me, you're better off not doing that.
those are all valid techniques but there's plenty of way simpler techniques for yellow and orange models. Priming them grey then having your basecoat the color of your main shadow is super easy and gives great results. There's no right or wrong shadow tint for orange and yellow, you can have it cold or warm or whatever.
I'm returning to mini painting after a long break. 1. Black primer, I use Rustoleum flat black because it's very forgiving. (yes yes yes!!!) [Insert] 2. Drybrush the crap out of your model (quickly!) with a light gray. This makes it much easier to layer your brighter colors. Trust me, I'm even doing Fists this way. 3. Edge highlight (yes yes yes!) What a great video.
Zumikito, loving your painting style and each and everyone of your videos. Would you consider doing a series of quick tips on specific materials like cloth, leather, scales, wood and stones?
Oh my God when I was first starting to dip my toes into figure painting they sold me a white matte primer at the shop and I was using it and just thinking “I’m literally covering all my dimension by highlighting these micro divets that going in and shading later will be a pain for” “why wouldn’t I not just leave this dark grey at least I’d keep the dimension and not have to worry about covering all the white” I didn’t even think of using a BLACK primer. You just blew my mind 😂😂😂
Every painter should have sunny skin tonne by vallejo, it's truly the closest thing to a universal highlight, works on almost all colors, it's glorious. While I agree with almost everything, I hard disagree with edge highlight everything, it goes against the previous tip and it's also imo a really bad habit to pick up. You should be only edge highlighting where it makes sense based on the light source. This not only saves you time, but looks way more natural. Another tip is, while I love making my own oil washes, and they work incredibly well. I've been using scale 75's instant colors for a ton of things lately, at first I didn't like them but then I started using them as a mix between a glaze and a contrast paint, and when used to them it works really well. I've also started using them for lining. There's something a lot more workable about these paints compared to other contrast paints, using them as a lazy contrast paint they absolutely fail but as a tool for glazing while also using them as a contrast paint but in multiple layers in a controlled manner it comes out with some crazy good results. It's to me truly the greatest example of something that's easy to judge badly at first but is now the most used and versatile tool in my collection. There are times i'd use an oil wash instead tho, or line with oils. but it's based on the look i'm going for. Anyway, great video!
Question: Do you “always” gloss varnish before using oil wash to pin-shade ???? If yes, then your process is something like: base>recess shade(layer/wash)>highlight(layer/drybrush)>gloss varnish>>oil wash (pin shade)>matt varnish>metallic paint ??? (Do you gloss or satin varnish metallic paint??)
No, that sounds complicated as hell. I do whatever I want on the mini with recess shading, then when I wanna add recess shadingbI use the oil wash for that. So once I am at that steo, I apply gloss varnish then oil wash and then matt varnish. After that proceed normally. Check my space marine speedpainting videi zo see it in practice
I'm not entirely understanding the saturation thing... how, and why, would green be an appropriate color to put against red? How do you determine where the green would go and in what amount before it becomes too much? Would Saturation be on ALL parts of the mini or just the primary color? If you had a character the has lots of different colors, would you do this for each different part of the mini?
@@Zumikito whoa, actually didn't expected to receive such rapid reply from you =) Yeah, I've tried at laptop and it works fine there, thanks! And again thanks for your videos - hope I'll find such useful video on orks one day (I have bit of a problem with extrapolation of knowledge to other fields)
There is no black primer on my local shop so i took a white one would it mask the errors if i do a coat of a really dark tone before my base color? P.D: I used to paint 15 years ago or so and never actually used white nor grey primer i always prefer to build my color from dark to light so i dont know how white primer works firsthand
I’ve noticed when you do your brushstrokes, you do sharp little slashes rather than spreading the pigment around. Is this a conscious decision and if so, what is the benefit of your approach rather than spreading and making sure doing 1 layer at a time?
this really depends - you don't have to do that, but it gives you more consistent look when you use the same direction for your brushtrokes. Also, you release more pigment at the end of the brushstroke, so you can deposit more pigment towards that side. But of course, I combine my brushtrokes
I've always painted from a zenithal prime starting point, and I always struggled with getting the highlights to look right. I generally get them placed right but getting the value changes right and making a smooth change from shadow to mid-tone to highlight is where I just fall apart. I'm going to try the black prime and dark to light layering technique - maybe that might solve my issues!
Alright, after a 3 month break, I'm going to try and get into the painting saddle again. Though the starting from black is a interesting flip from what I've heard recently.
Edge Highlights are a mixed bag, on one hand it helps with seeing the details and it increases contrast, on the other hand it will more often than not make your minis look somewhat cartoonish due to the effect hard edges have on 3d things. That effect being making them look more 2d. The best example being when drawing a 3d shape on paper, if you are making the edges be extremely easy to see it will be very obvious a 2d shape made to seem 3d but if you make the edges less sharp the shape looks more 3d.
What kind of "pen" or tool is that you have useing to spread the oil wash ! It looks very handy from what I can tell from just a quick video of you useing it. 8:38 Anyone know please let me know I bet it works great.
Keep in mind that for those with physical disability in their hands edge highlights can be highly difficult especially on smaller models, I recommend a targeted dry brush in those instances.
Personally I prefer Vallejo Plastic Putty for gap filling. It's water-based marble dust, according to the back of the tube, and can easily be thinned down with water and then brushed right into gaps with minimal sanding afterwards... although for bigger gaps you might need to use it straight in which case you will need to sand more. But it's easier to use than Milliput and unlike sprue glue it's definitely not going to melt anything.
Hey, just found your channel and it was an instant subscribe. I also have a non painting question... Was this model resin? Or was it the PVC plastic that these are going to be produced as?
I started out priming in black but found myself struggling to see details so have been doing light colors for a while now. Guess will have to take a stab again....
Hey, great video as always! Questions on the sprue glue, do you use a full or nearly empty glue pot? And how long does it last? Got to fill those gaps 😉
Listened it . And l dont understand a lot of stuff, and the stuff l do understand sounds very complicated. How do people know what colours to use , specialy without buying multiple paints ? Or how do you know where the light should be coming from and how is it suppose to look?
First of all pick paints you need the most, and dont stick to paints which you saw in tutorial. To get more colors, you can mix different paints together and you'll see what you 'll get. More you experiments the better painter you are. Dont be afraid new things and failures, with every model you paint you will be better. About placing lights zumikito got nice and short vid
I have noticed that black primer allows for the paint to stay on much much better than when I use a white primer where I frequently have to repaint the same edges.
What do I need to do, If I want to make custom figures on marvel legends? Do I need a technique before and after painting tips? Cuz I just have tried to paint on figure with model color paints and after drying the paint comes easily off. Did I did maybe something wrong? Or the paints are not good enough for plastic? I want to know!
Hi, in the shots of the model you're painting where you can see the primer it's very spotty. Do you prime the model twice? with a white layer sprayed over the black in the areas that would be exposed to light? or is it something else?
My boyfriend went to work and said “try painting this Ogre here, let’s see what you can do!” So now I’m here and ready to surprise him! Thank you so much!
About tip 5. Because these tip leading more to begginer then to advanced model maker. I have to say that using "sprue goo" is quite dangerous when you have shaky hands. It instantly destroy details and surfraces around when you miss placed it. And when you push to big gap too much this glue it can lead to rection and surface can collapse and make a dent (its more problematic on big flat surfaces). Much more user frendly is using super glue with "saw powder" from resin miniatures or use products for that purpose (CA glue filler). Its more user friendly, because when you spill CA on your miniature you can use debonder to clean it without demaging the details around.
Can you do a video to help people that are color blind? im red/green color blind and blending is hard for me since the colors just look the same. its hard to paint properly and would love some help.
I love that you have no annoying intro. Straight to the point(s)! Perfect!
I thought TH-cam actually didn't buffer for a second there, he just jumped in.
ya i agree. but his name is pretty gay
You and Vince Venturella are the perfect complement for me. You explain things in high speed and thus can give alot of neat ideas to pick and choose from.
And the ones I wanna explore deeper? There is a 99.93% chance Vince has a 25 minute video about it.
I have to watch Vince's videos on 2x speed because he rambles so much 😃.
@@mh9590 yeah his videos are long and, for a TH-cam video, pretty slow.
So I dont watch them all
L mostly watch particular ones .
So like I said. Zumikito kinda guides me to what I wanna know more about and try out. And Vince gives me the indepth guide
Well said!
Yes, agree perfectly. Vince and Zumikito are the two channels that I watch most for the education aspect, because they do things in the opposite fashion. Fast and dirty for a quick reminder or visual demonstration, and Vince for the deep "why and how"s. I also like Squidmar and Ninjon because they're both somewhere in between but also focus on entertainment value as well, which I appreciate.
The thing that helped me the most is just... Mindset. I have really shaky hands, which makes painting pretty hard at times. My paintjobs have always just been basecoat, wash, done. I thought that was all I could do - But the more you paint, and the more you just try to do different techniques like glazing, edge highlighting etc, you will get better - Guaranteed. Don't let a model you're not happy with stop you from painting any more. Keep learning and researching techniques and you WILL improve! :)
Absolutely. I never thought I would be able to edge highlights but now I’m doing it and enjoying it.
Dude you are teaching me so much so quickly! So many other videos have so much filler and longwinded intros, you keep it concise and I actually pay attention and retain the information because the whole video is non stop useful points.
Painting my first Tzeentch Daemons and Thousand Sons models right now, with your help its going way better than I thought it would!
One of the biggest and best changes I’ve made to painting models is painting volumes. It’s taken a lot of practice but it’s makes things look so much better
Little did you know, you're the real painting God. Seriously I've watched a lot of painters in the past but none of them comes close to conveying information this fast and this clearly.
There's also the fact that you don't go into "youtuber mode" and hype the living shit out of every new random paint or product just because it would get views which I REALLY appreciate.
My god, how nice it is to watch a video without an annoying animated intro followed by a prolonged "dialogue" with the audience about what you are going to do. THANK YOU, THIS IS AMAZING!!!
Really helpful advice here. Thanks for sharing Zumikito!
Loved the video, I have been out of the hobby for over 5 years and this helped me relearn things I have forgotten and even make my older models better. Thank you.
8. Focus your volume, contrast, and highlights on the shoulders/head/top half of your model. It draws the eye of the viewer and is perfect for batch painting high numbers of models. 60 guardsmen with everything highlighted is redundant and unneeded as they will die very quickly. But, taking a little extra time to improve the top half will be faster and give you the most value for your time.
Keep the everything part for special/hero models, it'll make them stand out even more when adjacent too the rest of your army.
I'm learning well, I've just started a Seraphon (lizardmen) army.
Flat black primed it, I'm using it as a guide for some black lining for the accessories later lm, my base is a nice dark green mud to compliment the bright skin tone of the soft skin, that I'm using a light cream as the highlight colour for an orange pink tone.
The bright colours of the scales, which also is using the black prime to build up from, are using a mix of a dark tone and light tone of the same colour and the heads, shoulders and back will have the lightest points.
The accessories will be a nice cyan with heavy black lining.
Already gotten to the skin tone for many of them but it's already looking nice, and the test model was very helpful on how far to push cetain parts compared to others.
Good luck, Lizards are fun to play and look great on the table in bright colors.
I’ve watched quite a few of your videos now and I’ve never seen a bad one. Every time, I’ve learned something. Keep up the great work!
Had my first experience with contrast first hand yesterday. I painted a guys hand all pasty white because I wanted him to look ghoulish, I then highlighted the joints in his hand with a brighter white. I was amazed with how much volume it gave it. Its a 3d object but without that highlight it looked flat and you couldn't really appreciate it but now its easy to see how his hand is flexing
Where did the model with the waves and the sword come from (4:15)? It's pretty neat.
Anyone who says something bad about your magnificent beard is clearly insane
I am telling this to my mother, she always talks trash about it 👀
@@Zumikito braid that thing, guy
It doesn't really look good. He looks like some 2015 hipster.
@@x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x wait are you his mother?
Hes hiding something . Must be his chin .
Zumikito videos have the best content to length ratio. No rambling, no nonsense, just great tips all the way through.
Maan you've really upped your content game. From really snappy editing to smooth transitions. You're good man!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this! Was a great help Zumi! Cheers and God bless
Minor addition: Dark Greys are also a neat base color. It provides similar advantages like black does (no shining throu on spots that you have forgotten to paint) but the shadows end up less dark and thus provide a bit less contrasts which might be desirable
Valeu!
Not only excellent and clear, but also funny. Good stuff.
Always love your stuff. Great job as always. Even the things I already knew, this was a great reminder of how important and impactful the little things are.
Anyone know what brushes are used to do the recess shading at 8:22 ? ty
Marvelous Tips my dude! Specially the saturation one! This combines with the 2° tip. Your main light + Reflection of the sky should be the way you create your shadows (blues / greens* [reflection of the ground] ) and your light (Light orange / Yellow).
ps. your beard is not stupid. it's beautiful.
Awesome vids every time, all really helped me get back to the hobby after a long break so thanks and keep em coming!
So just wanna add a tip for anyone who struggles with picking or imagining a position for lighting to highlight. Get one of those cheap swiveling desk lamps and a low watt bulb and place your artifical sun at whatever angle you like
Awesome video as always brother, love your sense of humor as well :) Pozdravujem zo Slovenska ;)
Oooh, Kingdom Death models. Hope you're going to be painting some of those in a future video, unless you already have and I just haven't gone back to see them yet.
Awesome video, and yes, be able to clean up oil wash or panel liner before you use it. I did not, and I have twelve battletech minis to repaint.
Was going to look up what color to paint a base today. Thanks homie.
I'd just like to wish good luck to people trying to base orange or yellow on top of a black primer :)
Not even a zenithal will save it, because the black informs those colors and gives you ugly shades.
What you want to do is prime white, and then it depends -
Yellow: Underspray (reverse zenithal)/preshade lightly with pink, then base the model with yellow. The pink will inform the yellow and give you darker yellows that look more natural than yellow on black.
Orange: Underspray/preshade *heavily* with pink, then base in yellow, then base in orange. The extra layer reduces the shades, so you want more pink. You should underspray with brown (like a vallejo beasty brown) to post-shade the orange, if you want it even darker.
Then you paint from there with a brush. With white it's fine, I'd just zenithal with a cold or warm white rather than a pure white, so you can see what you're painting and you have somewhere to go up from.
Alternatively, you just don't paint yellow or orange models. Trust me, you're better off not doing that.
I dunno I had some success with base coating with purple before going up to orange.
those are all valid techniques but there's plenty of way simpler techniques for yellow and orange models. Priming them grey then having your basecoat the color of your main shadow is super easy and gives great results. There's no right or wrong shadow tint for orange and yellow, you can have it cold or warm or whatever.
Fantastic video as always Zumikito! definitely a few good tidbits in here I can apply to my own painting
I'm returning to mini painting after a long break.
1. Black primer, I use Rustoleum flat black because it's very forgiving. (yes yes yes!!!)
[Insert] 2. Drybrush the crap out of your model (quickly!) with a light gray. This makes it much easier to layer your brighter colors. Trust me, I'm even doing Fists this way.
3. Edge highlight (yes yes yes!)
What a great video.
Woah DUDE, using colours to increase brightness instead of white. That blows my mind.
So so so brilliant, this is an awesome video in that you just told me to try other colours than white, time to use my AK pastel paints, thank you.
Great content as always 👏
Great tips Zimikito! As always. Keep em comin'
I just LOVE your videos!!!! I'm always checking for a new one, lol!!! Thanks for all the tips, they are wonderful and so are you ... and your beard :)
Zumikito, loving your painting style and each and everyone of your videos. Would you consider doing a series of quick tips on specific materials like cloth, leather, scales, wood and stones?
0:10 Man, your beard is actually impressive, great job maintaining it!
Goblin green bases forever!! 😄
Great video.
Hi your beard is insane and I was going to paint some kroots today and this helped
What would you suggest I do as an Imperial Fists painter? I’ve heard that black primer isn’t good for yellow.
I missed Your videos mate! Good to see You back!
Oh my God when I was first starting to dip my toes into figure painting they sold me a white matte primer at the shop and I was using it and just thinking “I’m literally covering all my dimension by highlighting these micro divets that going in and shading later will be a pain for” “why wouldn’t I not just leave this dark grey at least I’d keep the dimension and not have to worry about covering all the white” I didn’t even think of using a BLACK primer. You just blew my mind 😂😂😂
Every painter should have sunny skin tonne by vallejo, it's truly the closest thing to a universal highlight, works on almost all colors, it's glorious.
While I agree with almost everything, I hard disagree with edge highlight everything, it goes against the previous tip and it's also imo a really bad habit to pick up. You should be only edge highlighting where it makes sense based on the light source. This not only saves you time, but looks way more natural.
Another tip is, while I love making my own oil washes, and they work incredibly well. I've been using scale 75's instant colors for a ton of things lately, at first I didn't like them but then I started using them as a mix between a glaze and a contrast paint, and when used to them it works really well. I've also started using them for lining. There's something a lot more workable about these paints compared to other contrast paints, using them as a lazy contrast paint they absolutely fail but as a tool for glazing while also using them as a contrast paint but in multiple layers in a controlled manner it comes out with some crazy good results. It's to me truly the greatest example of something that's easy to judge badly at first but is now the most used and versatile tool in my collection.
There are times i'd use an oil wash instead tho, or line with oils. but it's based on the look i'm going for.
Anyway, great video!
Why am I just seeing this?! Love you man!
Excellent points! Can we get a video on tip 4? I really want to play with saturation but would like a guide to reference.
Congrats for the 100k subscribers!!
Question: Do you “always” gloss varnish before using oil wash to pin-shade ???? If yes, then your process is something like: base>recess shade(layer/wash)>highlight(layer/drybrush)>gloss varnish>>oil wash (pin shade)>matt varnish>metallic paint ??? (Do you gloss or satin varnish metallic paint??)
No, that sounds complicated as hell. I do whatever I want on the mini with recess shading, then when I wanna add recess shadingbI use the oil wash for that. So once I am at that steo, I apply gloss varnish then oil wash and then matt varnish. After that proceed normally. Check my space marine speedpainting videi zo see it in practice
@@Zumikito thank you! at 0:23 on the 7 speed painting tips video there’s a workflow list…
Base (non-metallic paints) >
Gloss Varn >
Recess Shade (including Oil wash) > Highlights >
Matte Varn (go easy to avoid cloudy finish)>
Metallic Paints
I'm not entirely understanding the saturation thing... how, and why, would green be an appropriate color to put against red?
How do you determine where the green would go and in what amount before it becomes too much?
Would Saturation be on ALL parts of the mini or just the primary color? If you had a character the has lots of different colors, would you do this for each different part of the mini?
Man, thanks for your videos - it helps me to fight my anxiety a lot! I'm truly grateful for your efforts
so glad to hear that! That is strange, everything works on my side - maybe it's because of the platform you are on?
@@Zumikito whoa, actually didn't expected to receive such rapid reply from you =) Yeah, I've tried at laptop and it works fine there, thanks! And again thanks for your videos - hope I'll find such useful video on orks one day (I have bit of a problem with extrapolation of knowledge to other fields)
Man this was so helpful. Thank you. Subscribed! Appreciate it!
Ah, Yes. A video about painting chaos space marines. It is a sign from destiny. Thank you, best bearded painter on the internet!
Any tips on how to make a wizard's staff look like it's made of glass?? Any help, greatly appreciated. Love your work.
What black paint (GW one) is best as a base? I recently did a load of Stormcast and now... I can totally see your point after making them all white
There is no black primer on my local shop so i took a white one would it mask the errors if i do a coat of a really dark tone before my base color?
P.D: I used to paint 15 years ago or so and never actually used white nor grey primer i always prefer to build my color from dark to light so i dont know how white primer works firsthand
Straight into #1, excellent!
I’ve noticed when you do your brushstrokes, you do sharp little slashes rather than spreading the pigment around. Is this a conscious decision and if so, what is the benefit of your approach rather than spreading and making sure doing 1 layer at a time?
this really depends - you don't have to do that, but it gives you more consistent look when you use the same direction for your brushtrokes. Also, you release more pigment at the end of the brushstroke, so you can deposit more pigment towards that side. But of course, I combine my brushtrokes
I've always painted from a zenithal prime starting point, and I always struggled with getting the highlights to look right. I generally get them placed right but getting the value changes right and making a smooth change from shadow to mid-tone to highlight is where I just fall apart. I'm going to try the black prime and dark to light layering technique - maybe that might solve my issues!
I love the KDM mini showcase!
You deserve to have more subsribers. I love watching your videos.
Alright, after a 3 month break, I'm going to try and get into the painting saddle again. Though the starting from black is a interesting flip from what I've heard recently.
Edge Highlights are a mixed bag, on one hand it helps with seeing the details and it increases contrast, on the other hand it will more often than not make your minis look somewhat cartoonish due to the effect hard edges have on 3d things. That effect being making them look more 2d. The best example being when drawing a 3d shape on paper, if you are making the edges be extremely easy to see it will be very obvious a 2d shape made to seem 3d but if you make the edges less sharp the shape looks more 3d.
Good stuff bro!! Quick wins tips!
What kind of "pen" or tool is that you have useing to spread the oil wash ! It looks very handy from what I can tell from just a quick video of you useing it. 8:38 Anyone know please let me know I bet it works great.
It comes with tamiya panel liner
Good man thank you so much@@Zumikito
Keep in mind that for those with physical disability in their hands edge highlights can be highly difficult especially on smaller models, I recommend a targeted dry brush in those instances.
Personally I prefer Vallejo Plastic Putty for gap filling. It's water-based marble dust, according to the back of the tube, and can easily be thinned down with water and then brushed right into gaps with minimal sanding afterwards... although for bigger gaps you might need to use it straight in which case you will need to sand more. But it's easier to use than Milliput and unlike sprue glue it's definitely not going to melt anything.
thanks to you my painting skill increase every day
Hey, just found your channel and it was an instant subscribe. I also have a non painting question...
Was this model resin? Or was it the PVC plastic that these are going to be produced as?
I started out priming in black but found myself struggling to see details so have been doing light colors for a while now. Guess will have to take a stab again....
Really love your videos, keep it up champ🔥🔥🔥
I love your videos. Thanks for the great work. Congrats.
Thank you so much!
Hey, great video as always!
Questions on the sprue glue, do you use a full or nearly empty glue pot? And how long does it last?
Got to fill those gaps 😉
Pretty long lasting. I think it's better to pour some out first so you don't have to fill in it with too much plastic
Listened it . And l dont understand a lot of stuff, and the stuff l do understand sounds very complicated. How do people know what colours to use , specialy without buying multiple paints ? Or how do you know where the light should be coming from and how is it suppose to look?
First of all pick paints you need the most, and dont stick to paints which you saw in tutorial. To get more colors, you can mix different paints together and you'll see what you 'll get. More you experiments the better painter you are. Dont be afraid new things and failures, with every model you paint you will be better. About placing lights zumikito got nice and short vid
I have noticed that black primer allows for the paint to stay on much much better than when I use a white primer where I frequently have to repaint the same edges.
This is a fantastic video, and you are an amazing painter. Subbed.
What's the audio clip at 4:45? I recognise it, but Ib cane remember where from. I think it's a leveling up sound from a game. But which one?!
Never mind it's the quest complete sound from The Witcher 3
Thank you!
Can somerone explain what He uses to thin the wash im 8:48? Thanks :)
White Spirit - that one is from AK Interactive. Make sure to pick odourless one
@@Zumikito Thanks mate. You know where I can buy it?
6:42 I use those same buffers! Aye! 😁
What do I need to do, If I want to make custom figures on marvel legends? Do I need a technique before and after painting tips? Cuz I just have tried to paint on figure with model color paints and after drying the paint comes easily off. Did I did maybe something wrong? Or the paints are not good enough for plastic? I want to know!
Did you use primer?
@@Zumikito nope
@@Zumikito what is this primer and how do you use it? Before paint or after paint ?
Can anyone share what tool he uses at 8.38 is for the oil lining? Is it just a brush? It looks like a pen of some sort.
It's an in built brush from tamiya panel liner. But you can use regular brush to get the same result
Can sprue goo be used on resin miniatures, or does it need to be a plastic model to bind and fill gaps?
Only plastic, resin will require milliput
@@Zumikito Got it, thanks for the great videos!
the first time i put tamiya black panel liner in my little necron cracks, i fell in love
What about a gray primer? Would that be the best of both worlds?
@zumikito miniatures
I need to know too!
Great video as always!
One question: Could it be that you are out of GER, AU or CHE?
Thank you 🙌 Very close, but not germanic - I am Czech
@@Zumikito A, close! I just saw many products with german names in your videos, so I thought it could be possible ^^
Hi, in the shots of the model you're painting where you can see the primer it's very spotty. Do you prime the model twice? with a white layer sprayed over the black in the areas that would be exposed to light? or is it something else?
Yea, that's the zenithal highlight, it doesn't have ro be perfect. It's there for me to see the volumes and for the paint to cover better
My boyfriend went to work and said “try painting this Ogre here, let’s see what you can do!” So now I’m here and ready to surprise him! Thank you so much!
Whats your view on the Grey primer /w Zenathal white?
Grey in the shades is still problematic
I don't agree with everything you say. But I love the way you are saying it. Subscribed. :)
Hey! I likes your video! And it went from 4.9K to 5K. 😁
Now how much ro persuade him to part with the thumbnail mini?
Nah, prime close as you can your majority color, much much easier. Just requires you to have multiple primer colors.
About tip 5. Because these tip leading more to begginer then to advanced model maker. I have to say that using "sprue goo" is quite dangerous when you have shaky hands. It instantly destroy details and surfraces around when you miss placed it. And when you push to big gap too much this glue it can lead to rection and surface can collapse and make a dent (its more problematic on big flat surfaces). Much more user frendly is using super glue with "saw powder" from resin miniatures or use products for that purpose (CA glue filler). Its more user friendly, because when you spill CA on your miniature you can use debonder to clean it without demaging the details around.
What is the name of the sound at 4:46 ?
I know this is very late but it's the Witcher 3 quest complete sound
Do I'm jellus of your bead!! Mine doesn't come close to yours!!! Great video keep up the great work 👍👍👍. Yes I know I missed spelled. What????
Can you do a video to help people that are color blind? im red/green color blind and blending is hard for me since the colors just look the same. its hard to paint properly and would love some help.
Great video. Thanks
Congrats on 100k subs.
Love your vids man!
You forgot an important detail in number 3: Edge highlight everything doesn't mean edge highlight everywhere. The difference is very very important.