Honda CB360 Carburetor Rebuild Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2016
- www.common-motor.com
In part one of our Honda CL / CJ / CB360 carburetor rebuild we explain some of the parts and pieces on the Keihin carburetor body. Then we assemble the jets and emulsifier tubes, along with the float needle and seat. Afterwards we install the float and adjust the float height; a new gasket is applied to the float bowl then the bottom side of the carburetor is sealed up.
Honda CB360 Carburetor Diaphragm: www.common-motor.com/honda-cb3...
Honda CB360 Carburetor Rebuild Kit: www.common-motor.com/honda-cb3...
Honda CB360 Intake Manifold: www.common-motor.com/honda-car...
Honda CB360 O-ring Kit: www.common-motor.com/honda-360... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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This is the best video ever made to explain these carbs. Thank you!!
best carb rebuild I have ever seen. Thanks for the effort.
Many Thanks for sharing your excellent techniques! I bought various sizes of guitar strings and following your videos I was able to make this motor run like a clock.
WOW these are incredible! Thank you for putting these together.
shoosh . Some times we all say what we regret , But your doing the best you can . Just keep up the good work . Your doing great for all of us . Thanks
I appreciate your videos so much. As my thanks, I only buy my parts from Common Motors because of the videos.
Common Motor is the best. Praise be to Common Motor.
We accept your praise and give you a piece of our divine good luck. May you not break down for a month.
Great videos... I'll be getting a lot more parts from you real soon!
what up guys do you have a video on how to install the carbs back onto the motorcycle and how to install the throttle cables? Keep up the great work!!!
Great tutorial! I don't see replacement floats on your store for the CB360. Please point me to them if available. Would be great if they were a rebuild kit option (with pods and corresponding jets🙏).
What's a good way to remove the float seat? As shown in the video, it's sometimes tough to get in, let alone to yank out. I'm having a heck of a time trying to remove it during carb disassembly
My dads 360t has a bad idle. Any ideas towards how to fix it?
In the service manual that I have it says #68 for the Main jet Primary and Secondary. You mentioned a 110 but prefer a 100 for the Main jet Primary. Thoughts on using the same jet for the Main Primary and Secondary?
i purchased a carb rebuilt kit from dime city cycles for my 75 CB360. Is it necessary to remove the entire carb for the basic install of the small pieces or can I do it by simply removing the float bowl? Thanks! Ps. Great video. Best I've seen
Got mine back together with the recommended 16mm float height, but it seems to be getting too much gas? I'm running your angled air pods to clear my electronics tray...do you recommend maybe pushing it back to the stock 18.5mm to solve the running rich problems?
I am working on my cl36o and I went through the carbs but its still running funny. When I give it some throttle a slight mist of gas sprays out the carbs. Anyone know what could cause this.
Awesome video guys. When I rebuilt my CB360 carbs I set the float heights to 18.5mm & I had fuel seeping around the float bowl gaskets, which told me the fuel level was up over the top of the bowls. I verified this with a fuel level gauge I made by ordering an extra float bowl drain plug (from Common Motor of course), drilling a hole through it, and press fitting some clear tubing into it. Sure enough the fuel level was a few mm over the top of each float bowl. I ended up having to set my float heights at about 25mm just to get the fuel level to right below the tops of the float bowls. I did verify that my floats floated in a bowl of gasoline...so the only thing I can think of is that maybe they had lost some of their buoyancy over time? Have you guys ever encountered this?
Mike Thompson i have this problem too i will try your method. Cb360t
I ran into the same situation during my total rebuild of the CB360. I set the carbs to 18.5 mm and I was leaking fuel out of the overflow tube and a (soon to be discovered) tear in the float bowl gasket. I have the carbs off the bike...again...and plan to set them to 20 mm to see what will happen.
Thanks Common Motor Collective for these instructing videos . I have got a question . I have float height at 18mm at the moment and spark plugs are black carbonized but no oil . If I leave the mix screw at 2 turns as you instructed they get even worst , 'cause at this time they are fully closed . You think that rich condition must be related with the float height ? Thanks in advance.
Note : I have done all the previous procedures as you explained , valve clearance ( 0.08mm exhaust , 0.05mm intake ) , cam chain adjusted @ 90 degrees after LT on compression stroke and points spot on ( LF & F @ compression stroke )
Another trick to getting seals to sit while you're assembling (from the world of rotary engines) is to use vaseline. We go through tons of the stuff during and engine rebuild.
Hylomar
Qual o nível correto da bóia ?
The round gasket is a pia, I do a lot of carbs, get the tree shaped gaskets..CMC should offer these and let us decide.
Do you know if the 1979 360t carbs are the same from the previous years?
My diaphragms were shot. I used an innertube I cut to shape.
where can I buy a set of used carbs for my Honda cb 360 1975 .
What condition are you looking for?
Does anyone know of a website with similar support as common moto but for 70s cb200s, Im ordering a ton of parts and I want high quality parts but im not sure of the best places to get them.
Common Motor supports 200s as well. They have a playlist started and adding more to it all the time.
@@snrak2 thanks, I was very happy when they launched the 200 line
I have a problem with my carburettors, where can I get help?
Due to the high volume of request we can not offer tech support through our social pages. Please contact us via our website www.common-motor.com
Where can I find a new float?
Unfortunately CB360/CL360 floats are incredibly hard to find. Used is the only option so I would surf eBay and rice paddy.com
i heard that
16 mm is wrong . This only leaves 1 cm of stop or - 0 in some cases . 17mm minimum . You can go no more that 16.5 but not recomend it . This is what I know and proven by 20+ years . I always use the 45 degree methid @ 18 mm . The reason is there will be no load on the springs of the needles or the rubber seats . Some of this is sort of BS anyway because as these floats get older there will be buildup of varnish on the floats . So now the floats are heaver than when new . So still a hit and miss until the engine is running right . I had used LCR to remove varish and other debre from the floats . I just found this out resently so this is new to me about the LCR stuff . It did get all the varish off .
Hmmmm 10:14 or so... all that force to get the float needle seat "seated all the way". How did you know it wasn't in far enough, and how do we know when it is? When I put mine in, the forked clip is up at an extreme angle. So that means when I put in my float, it doesn't lay itself flat with gravity like yours does. I have to push down on my float to get it "flat" to measure. Where I see yours is almost at its most flat with gravity alone. Is that because my float needle seat is sticking up too high, making the whole thing too high? I swear I can't shove the seat in any lower, but I see you had to give it quite a lot of force.
+Scotty Komer What we are seating is the O-ring, if not pressed in all the way the seat will sick up about 1/4" too tall.
+Common Motor Collective Got it. Thank you. Best way for me to tell was how flat I could screw down the fork clip after seating it. Thanks!
Oooooo he said a bad word 10:11
I cringe when I see custom CB360 motorcycles with motorcross 2 stroke carburetors on them. The round slide mechanical carburetors will never make the same amount of torque and low end responsiveness. The reason the factory used the more complicated vacuum slide carbs, is because it maintains higher air velocity. Higher air velocity always produces more power, with all things being the same. You want to keep the intake air speed as high as possible, because it atomizes the fuel mixture better. This is why they don't put large single plane manifolds and mechanical secondaries on a V8 engine. Even a big V8 engine uses a dual plane (longer intake runners) and a vacuum secondary carburetor. Because you want to do everything you can to maintain high air speed in the intake. Once the engine is at maximum RPM, then you want to have full flow through the intake stream, because the air is moving fast enough, that there will not be any difficulty atomizing (mixing) the air and fuel. But at low and medium RPM, you can have sluggish air movement, which can actually create poor combustion, which decreases power. The fast moving air makes the fuel mixture burn better, and you get more power on the dyno, than slow moving air. If you're making a street driven vehicle, it makes no sense to use a mechanical secondary carb, without any accelerator pump. A properly tuned CV carburetor motorcycle feels like an absolute beast, and you can lug it in 6th gear at 30mph. My 2002 Ninja had vacuum secondaries. All new motorcycles have a computer controlled secondary butterfly valve. They do this specifically to make the engine more responsive, because they are trying to emulate the vacuum CV carburetors. Why would you throw away something that was engineered to improve mid range power?