The bridge is a seriously overlooked component to the guitar’s performance. Most people don’t listen to me, but I always tell people to upgrade their bridge before they swap out all the electronics. I just did an experiment on an American Pro Strat, where I put a Mexican made Player series bridge in it…needless to say, the guitar lost noticeable amounts of sonic information compared to the trem that comes stock. The bridge and the nut should always be addressed before determining whether or not the pickups will be swapped out. I just put a set of Pearly Gates in my Custom 24 SE, and though I like them more than the stock set, I immediately realized I’ll need to upgrade the bridge like you have in order to get the results I want. Thanks for the video!
So I noticed that I forgot to put which playing was before the old bridge one and which was the new one... the first one of each set is the old one and the second is the new one. Kenny Chesney's Beer In Mexico riff is the new bridge - I had too much fun while recording and it got away from me! Hope you enjoy.
Bro the hardware is made in South Korea not China. It's Jin Ho, who produces white label stuff for lots of big names. Including Hipshot "USA". Apart from not having the fancy open wheel mechanism, they are quite solid and much better than US Sperzels for instance. I prefer Schaller or Gotoh but they're not half bad and way better than some Chinese Ping hardware Fender used to put on even some "USA" models.
I have a PRS SE Custom 24 and I’ve purchased some PRS style locking tuners from Mann Made USA and love them. Next will be the bridge and pickups. Great video!!
Ultra agreed. I changed the saddles to titanium, tried the brass block but didnt like it as together the tone was too shrill, and kept the original metal block. The saddles and/or block change are night and day compated to the stock pot metal. It brings the guitar to life.
The titanium is notoriously bright. That's where you no doubt got the "shrill" sound. Brass is a pretty mellow sounding metal. You can tell when you use it to replace a steel block (which you probably should never replace). You probably had a zinc block, which is a tone sucker but titanium saddles could brighten even that up.
You know, sometimes certain upgrades don't really get you to where you thought they would. I also had a strat I liked and after changing the bridge it lost some of its initial charm despite some improvements in other areas. So I reverted, as the imperfect thing was better for me than the improved thing.
Very subtle, in other words, unnoticeable if not looking for it. I'm sure it feels better in your head and that is always good. 👍Excellent video, thanks for the content 🤙
Interesting! Thanks for the heads up. I have an SE Custom 24-08 (wanted an inexpensive coil split back-up) and looking at buying the SE Tremonti (LP 'Gibson scale' with a whammy - what's not to like?). Both heavily reduced over here (HK) so spending a bit on upgrades not a worry for me. The actual guitars 'have bones' but the electronic a bit of a worry in the SE line - I've seen the bridge pick-ups cut out on a couple, faulty switch wiring I guess?
The 24-08s are such slick guitars. And the Tremonti is a sweet one too. The guitarist of one of my favorite bands plays one. I do still worry about the electronics too and that’s even on an S2 model. Been thinking of upgrading that as well
Thanks a lot for this video. It was the kicking off that I ordered the brass block. (I think next month I'll also order additionally the black-nickel brass saddles...) Thanks again!
Yeah of course! I’ve been really enjoying the new bridge and wanted to let others know that it can make a big difference. Also - those black-nickel brass saddles sounds incredible
@@ryansnydercg I took your advice on the JM Bridge, added dual 58/15 pickups, and did the super switch mod. Super happy, thanks for the video. th-cam.com/video/3L_Y3ziiBw4/w-d-xo.html
I have one of these guitars and the whammy bar causes the guitar to go out of tune just by looking at it. Forget dive bombing. I've never heard of this replacement kit, but assumed it would help the whammy bar problem. Am I wrong?
The prs stock nut is brass infused propietary material. It's the same nut they use on core models, therefore if PRS would have thought brass nuts sound better, he would have used that instead
When people say "molded" or "cast" I think zinc, which you see a lot of. The PRS website says "molded steel". Not machined, but steel nonetheless. I don't see how that could be possible, seems like a typo. If it's true, I'd leave it. Some people think brass is too mellow. I routinely replace my zinc Gibson hardware with aluminum, steel and/or brass. Zinc is the real tone killer. Steel should be left in place unless you're looking for a different design.
Yes, brass is a great tone metal. I have an SG Standard that sounded just okay with the stock zinc hardware, not bad, but I put on a Callaham bridge (steel) and a brass tailpiece with Tone Pro studs. Massive improvement, and I've enjoyed brass strat blocks very much in some guitars.@@johnmannsguitarvault
@@ryansnydercg Thanks Colt. I have a CE24 which I bought used. It has the SE trem bridge and it doesn’t hold tuning well. I was hoping the Mannmade bridge would help. I bought a wrecked Core model. It looks terrible (I’m restoring it). It looks terrible, but it plays beautifully, sounds great and stays in tune for weeks.
@@ryansnydercg So PRS webpage have a dyslexia error 'The S2 Standard 24’s solid mahogany body and set neck give this guitar a distinctive resonance and powerful sustain, and when mahogany’s rich, round, warm tone meets the 58/15 “S” pickups"
Protip: you can use the Fat Finger to great effect in enhancing the overall sustain and girth on any guitar that allows clamping it on the headstock, regardless of design. Find the right spot, clamp it and done.
@@ryansnydercg No problem! A friend had an Ibanez that exhibited fast decay of the octave on the G string or thereabouts. On gain it would decay into a harmonic overtone compared to other fretted notes. He successfully found a spot on the headstock where clamping that thing would make that stop and the note decayed naturally. What's more, the overall tone had improved everywhere on the fretboard. Eventually, he discovered that the inside of the neck pocket had some paint in and he carefully sanded that surface with some fine sandpaper just a pinch - that made the 12th on the G sustain properly. However he still claims the fat finger improves the tone of the guitar overall. Given the skinny ibanez rg neck and that there's not much meat on the headstock next to the thin strings, that's quite possible. I find it useful especially for neck thru/set neck guitars that basically don't allow for pocket adjustments. I mean there aren't many fixed bridges which would allow replacement for a difference in mass comparable to switching a trem with baseplate, saddles and block. Cheers!
There are a number of factors that make the new CE and S2 line lackluster, like dressed up Ibanez. I’ve owned several of each and they just don’t end up being go to guitars. Cheep steel bridges, slab sawn necks with the scarf joint under the fingerboard. I picked up a used 98 CE22 and the thing sings with its brass bridge and solid quartersawn neck.
The actual design intent of the tremolo block was just to secure the springs and strings at what point in time did people start believing it impacts tone and sustain. There is no physical law that substantiates this.
@@ryansnydercg based on what? Practice not to guess but find an actual physical law. First you need to be able to define sustain and understand how it is impacted. The only thing you care about in sustain is attenuation of your signal and what in the system is robbing energy from the string. The block is actually damping your signal it by nature can not add to it. The ideal condition would be for a string to vibration to termination without any loss to the body or block. Magnets in your pickups only respond to transverse signals where as the energy transferred to the block is longitudinal hence it has no impact to the string and in turn to what you hear. Hope this helps.
It's basically related to the overall structure / hardness / mass of the materials. Usually the harder the material, the more string energy it will reflect back, allowing it to oscillate more as far as it is concerned. The softer the materials the strings come into contact with, the more energy they will absorb. If you don't agree then palm muting doesn't exist :-)) But hey even small things as the way the nut slots are cut or the way the saddle grooves are shaped can help or hinder oscillation. It can be that a lightweight guitar with lightweight hardware will sustain quite a lot more than another with "better" materials. Back in the day, best way to increase sustain for a strat was to have the bridge sit flush on the body, by tightening bridge screws and claw screws and/or block it with a wooden piece. That's adding more mass to the bridge effectively, it will reflect back more of the energy resulting in beefier attack and more sustain, especially on single notes. So people tried keeping the floating option but improving tone/sustain by having big brass/titanium/steel/stone blocks. Some prefer the way a guitar responds with zamak / zinc blocks with bent steel saddles. YMMV. Different tools for different sounds and feels.
@@bluwng Well empirical observations add up in that direction but we're living in a day and age where people actually question biological sex so I don't expect a lot anymore ;-) To your credit, I did own and play guitars made of aluminum frames and graphite necks with phenolic fretboard and they were among the nicest and cleanest sounding and playing axes I've tried.
You my friend !! Are crazy the S2 guitars sound great ! The difference is very minute ! The main difference is steel vs brass , The added mids is only slight and I truly doubt anyone in the audience can hear the difference, by the way. Get rid of the hat ! And take some guitar lessons,
I had a Jackson KEXMG once (Indonesia, nice axe but FR Special installed stock. I've replaced it with an 80s schaller (brass block, much sturdier and better built) and it improved overall sustain, single note sustain and fundamental separation under gain immensely. Used the same schaller floyd to replace a takeuchi lo trs i on an ibanez rg450 to discover pretty much the same effect. So, the difference between the korea made prs trem unit and the same with some nicer saddles and better block would be probably a bit less pronounced than between a fr special unit and a proper old school german schaller made OFR, however it most certainly makes a difference. You can make a fat ass mahogany guitar that sounds a bit muddy and bassy a little snappier with different saddles and perhaps a bright string set (elixir optiweb for instance). similarly, you can tame a shrill sounding guitar with warmer sounding strings and some different bridge material like brass. It's no myth and you can hear it in the amped sound the same way you hear the difference between picks of various sizes and materials.
The bridge is a seriously overlooked component to the guitar’s performance. Most people don’t listen to me, but I always tell people to upgrade their bridge before they swap out all the electronics. I just did an experiment on an American Pro Strat, where I put a Mexican made Player series bridge in it…needless to say, the guitar lost noticeable amounts of sonic information compared to the trem that comes stock. The bridge and the nut should always be addressed before determining whether or not the pickups will be swapped out. I just put a set of Pearly Gates in my Custom 24 SE, and though I like them more than the stock set, I immediately realized I’ll need to upgrade the bridge like you have in order to get the results I want. Thanks for the video!
WoW ! Thank you for your purchase & review !!! ~ John Mann
Thanks for making the best bridges ever!
So I noticed that I forgot to put which playing was before the old bridge one and which was the new one... the first one of each set is the old one and the second is the new one. Kenny Chesney's Beer In Mexico riff is the new bridge - I had too much fun while recording and it got away from me! Hope you enjoy.
Bro the hardware is made in South Korea not China. It's Jin Ho, who produces white label stuff for lots of big names. Including Hipshot "USA". Apart from not having the fancy open wheel mechanism, they are quite solid and much better than US Sperzels for instance. I prefer Schaller or Gotoh but they're not half bad and way better than some Chinese Ping hardware Fender used to put on even some "USA" models.
I have a PRS SE Custom 24 and I’ve purchased some PRS style locking tuners from Mann Made USA and love them. Next will be the bridge and pickups. Great video!!
That’s awesome! How are you liking the locking tuners? And thank you Tim.
A lot more sustain
Mann Made makes some fantastic stuff. Really looks second to none.
Musiclily brass block upgrade is awesome too. Cheap and fantastic.
I bought a brass block brass saddles tremlo upgrade for dgt se upgrade I pick up guitar this Friday 😊can’t Waite to hear it merry Christmas 😊
Merry Christmas! 🎄🎁
Ultra agreed. I changed the saddles to titanium, tried the brass block but didnt like it as together the tone was too shrill, and kept the original metal block. The saddles and/or block change are night and day compated to the stock pot metal. It brings the guitar to life.
The titanium is notoriously bright. That's where you no doubt got the "shrill" sound. Brass is a pretty mellow sounding metal. You can tell when you use it to replace a steel block (which you probably should never replace). You probably had a zinc block, which is a tone sucker but titanium saddles could brighten even that up.
@@deanallen927 yes. Most probably
You know, sometimes certain upgrades don't really get you to where you thought they would. I also had a strat I liked and after changing the bridge it lost some of its initial charm despite some improvements in other areas. So I reverted, as the imperfect thing was better for me than the improved thing.
@@andreil1234 agreed. Happy to meet you here as well as on RGC
Very subtle, in other words, unnoticeable if not looking for it. I'm sure it feels better in your head and that is always good. 👍Excellent video, thanks for the content 🤙
Yeah it’s subtle. But if it helps me pick it up more, it’s worth it. And thanks for the kind words
Maybe you just don’t have the best ears
Interesting! Thanks for the heads up. I have an SE Custom 24-08 (wanted an inexpensive coil split back-up) and looking at buying the SE Tremonti (LP 'Gibson scale' with a whammy - what's not to like?). Both heavily reduced over here (HK) so spending a bit on upgrades not a worry for me. The actual guitars 'have bones' but the electronic a bit of a worry in the SE line - I've seen the bridge pick-ups cut out on a couple, faulty switch wiring I guess?
The 24-08s are such slick guitars. And the Tremonti is a sweet one too. The guitarist of one of my favorite bands plays one.
I do still worry about the electronics too and that’s even on an S2 model. Been thinking of upgrading that as well
Thanks a lot for this video. It was the kicking off that I ordered the brass block. (I think next month I'll also order additionally the black-nickel brass saddles...) Thanks again!
Yeah of course! I’ve been really enjoying the new bridge and wanted to let others know that it can make a big difference.
Also - those black-nickel brass saddles sounds incredible
You got it dude. It's all in the materials
Hard to believe but then again we fall tone wood so it makes sense
Where are the bird inlays?
The S2 standard models don’t come with them. One of the cost savings
@@ryansnydercg I see,
Nice video, it made a big difference, i have a ce and might do this upgrade someday, nice playing
Thanks friend. Yeah I thought it did too and it makes it feel a bit more premium with the extra weight too if that makes sense
I can hear it, thinking about doing the same upgrade.
Did you ever change the pickups?
I’m still loving the upgrade. I have not done the pickups but hopefully will soon
@@ryansnydercg I took your advice on the JM Bridge, added dual 58/15 pickups, and did the super switch mod. Super happy, thanks for the video.
th-cam.com/video/3L_Y3ziiBw4/w-d-xo.html
I love the positive enthusiastic vibe in this video.
Thank you my friend!! Positive vibes, always!
You should have used the hex wrench bolts which is a much better screw head than the cross head which strips much easier.
Yeah for sure. Hindsight is 20/20
Is it possible to add a brass block to the existing bridge? Maybe add some brass saddles as well.
Yeah he sells just the brass blocks to replace your old one with
Thanks for the info bud I appreciate it.
Anytime friend
I just got a used one of these. Thinking about doing the same upgrades you’re doing. Any update on the pickup video?
How are you like the new bridge? And no not yet on the pickups but leaning towards Fralins… will keep y’all posted when I decide
@@ryansnydercg my bad i meant I bought a used PRS S2. Haven’t bought the bridge yet. But I’m liking the guitar so far.
Oh nice! They are great guitars
I have one of these guitars and the whammy bar causes the guitar to go out of tune just by looking at it. Forget dive bombing. I've never heard of this replacement kit, but assumed it would help the whammy bar problem. Am I wrong?
Possibly. Depends on where the tuning is going out. Mine works like a charm
For $400 upgrade like this, notes to come alive like you describe has to be very engaging. So the kit came with a tremelo? ❤
It always had the tremolo, just a heavier block underneath and new/better saddles
Have you considered swapping out for a brass nut as well?
I’ve considered it
The prs stock nut is brass infused propietary material. It's the same nut they use on core models, therefore if PRS would have thought brass nuts sound better, he would have used that instead
@@treishtrei is the same true of the block? Do any upgrades or revisions make any sense??
What is the system to install 6 screws of the bridge?
So I found you have to remove the saddles which is annoying but that’s the only way I figured out how to do that
When people say "molded" or "cast" I think zinc, which you see a lot of. The PRS website says "molded steel". Not machined, but steel nonetheless. I don't see how that could be possible, seems like a typo. If it's true, I'd leave it. Some people think brass is too mellow. I routinely replace my zinc Gibson hardware with aluminum, steel and/or brass. Zinc is the real tone killer. Steel should be left in place unless you're looking for a different design.
Steel is brighter in tone than Brass which enhances the mid- range tones
Yes, brass is a great tone metal. I have an SG Standard that sounded just okay with the stock zinc hardware, not bad, but I put on a Callaham bridge (steel) and a brass tailpiece with Tone Pro studs. Massive improvement, and I've enjoyed brass strat blocks very much in some guitars.@@johnmannsguitarvault
Hi. Did the new bridge improve tuning stability? Great video. Thank you very much for the video. Cheers, Max Power 😁👍
If it has, it’s been minor and unnoticeable to me
@@ryansnydercg Thanks Colt. I have a CE24 which I bought used. It has the SE trem bridge and it doesn’t hold tuning well. I was hoping the Mannmade bridge would help. I bought a wrecked Core model. It looks terrible (I’m restoring it). It looks terrible, but it plays beautifully, sounds great and stays in tune for weeks.
Can i buy these parts for left handed?
Yes, the parts I replaced will fit either right or left handed guitars
The holes for left handed are not on the same side....
yes MannMade USA offers lefty versions!
Is there a major tone difference in the gold plated set, and the nickel set? Or is that just to look nice ?
If it does it’s probably minute…
Gold plate wears off the second you put them in.
no change in tone with different plating
I think I like polonium block and uranium saddles better. explosive notes and it glows in the dark too!
😜🤣
the cheapest PRS standard 24 S2 is 1,400 USD...???
Dang inflation hit the guitar market hard. Back in 2020 when I made this it was still $999.
Luckily you can still find them used for under $1000
@@ryansnydercg Yeah, really sad :(
I'm corrently trying to find one cause this is my favorite PRS design
i have a S2 Standard 24 and it's not the same pickup as the SE. The S2 have 58/15 S and the SE have the 85/15 version
There might have been some dyslexia involved in the creation of this script 😂
@@ryansnydercg maybe depending which years too, mine has a chrome cover some don"t. I can't say if it the same pickup
s2s used to have 85/15s. my 2019 does.
@@ryansnydercg So PRS webpage have a dyslexia error
'The S2 Standard 24’s solid mahogany body and set neck give this guitar a distinctive resonance and powerful sustain, and when mahogany’s rich, round, warm tone meets the 58/15 “S” pickups"
Protip: you can use the Fat Finger to great effect in enhancing the overall sustain and girth on any guitar that allows clamping it on the headstock, regardless of design. Find the right spot, clamp it and done.
Never heard of the fat finger until today. Need to look more into this. Thanks!
@@ryansnydercg No problem! A friend had an Ibanez that exhibited fast decay of the octave on the G string or thereabouts. On gain it would decay into a harmonic overtone compared to other fretted notes. He successfully found a spot on the headstock where clamping that thing would make that stop and the note decayed naturally. What's more, the overall tone had improved everywhere on the fretboard.
Eventually, he discovered that the inside of the neck pocket had some paint in and he carefully sanded that surface with some fine sandpaper just a pinch - that made the 12th on the G sustain properly. However he still claims the fat finger improves the tone of the guitar overall.
Given the skinny ibanez rg neck and that there's not much meat on the headstock next to the thin strings, that's quite possible.
I find it useful especially for neck thru/set neck guitars that basically don't allow for pocket adjustments. I mean there aren't many fixed bridges which would allow replacement for a difference in mass comparable to switching a trem with baseplate, saddles and block.
Cheers!
For only bridge is gonna be a core sound?? Lol
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
There are a number of factors that make the new CE and S2 line lackluster, like dressed up Ibanez. I’ve owned several of each and they just don’t end up being go to guitars. Cheep steel bridges, slab sawn necks with the scarf joint under the fingerboard. I picked up a used 98 CE22 and the thing sings with its brass bridge and solid quartersawn neck.
🤔
I put one my SE - makes each note more expensive. Not better,
😂
200$ hurts my wallet.
It is. And this video made a lot more sense economically when these guitars were under $1000
would have sounded better if it was in tune
Haha yea
The actual design intent of the tremolo block was just to secure the springs and strings at what point in time did people start believing it impacts tone and sustain. There is no physical law that substantiates this.
But if the string is physically touching it, wouldnt the material affect how it vibrates, thus affecting the sustain?
@@ryansnydercg based on what? Practice not to guess but find an actual physical law. First you need to be able to define sustain and understand how it is impacted. The only thing you care about in sustain is attenuation of your signal and what in the system is robbing energy from the string. The block is actually damping your signal it by nature can not add to it. The ideal condition would be for a string to vibration to termination without any loss to the body or block. Magnets in your pickups only respond to transverse signals where as the energy transferred to the block is longitudinal hence it has no impact to the string and in turn to what you hear. Hope this helps.
It's basically related to the overall structure / hardness / mass of the materials. Usually the harder the material, the more string energy it will reflect back, allowing it to oscillate more as far as it is concerned. The softer the materials the strings come into contact with, the more energy they will absorb. If you don't agree then palm muting doesn't exist :-))
But hey even small things as the way the nut slots are cut or the way the saddle grooves are shaped can help or hinder oscillation. It can be that a lightweight guitar with lightweight hardware will sustain quite a lot more than another with "better" materials.
Back in the day, best way to increase sustain for a strat was to have the bridge sit flush on the body, by tightening bridge screws and claw screws and/or block it with a wooden piece. That's adding more mass to the bridge effectively, it will reflect back more of the energy resulting in beefier attack and more sustain, especially on single notes. So people tried keeping the floating option but improving tone/sustain by having big brass/titanium/steel/stone blocks. Some prefer the way a guitar responds with zamak / zinc blocks with bent steel saddles. YMMV. Different tools for different sounds and feels.
@@andreil1234 most of of that is half truths and speculation. As far as hardness the impact based on hardness is negligible.
@@bluwng Well empirical observations add up in that direction but we're living in a day and age where people actually question biological sex so I don't expect a lot anymore ;-)
To your credit, I did own and play guitars made of aluminum frames and graphite necks with phenolic fretboard and they were among the nicest and cleanest sounding and playing axes I've tried.
You my friend !! Are crazy the S2 guitars sound great ! The difference is very minute ! The main difference is steel vs brass ,
The added mids is only slight and I truly doubt anyone in the audience can hear the difference, by the way. Get rid of the hat ! And take some guitar lessons,
✌🏼😎
I could hear the difference, thanks for the video.
Placebo
Maybe… if it is that fine but it made me like my guitar more so I call that a win
I had a Jackson KEXMG once (Indonesia, nice axe but FR Special installed stock. I've replaced it with an 80s schaller (brass block, much sturdier and better built) and it improved overall sustain, single note sustain and fundamental separation under gain immensely. Used the same schaller floyd to replace a takeuchi lo trs i on an ibanez rg450 to discover pretty much the same effect.
So, the difference between the korea made prs trem unit and the same with some nicer saddles and better block would be probably a bit less pronounced than between a fr special unit and a proper old school german schaller made OFR, however it most certainly makes a difference.
You can make a fat ass mahogany guitar that sounds a bit muddy and bassy a little snappier with different saddles and perhaps a bright string set (elixir optiweb for instance). similarly, you can tame a shrill sounding guitar with warmer sounding strings and some different bridge material like brass. It's no myth and you can hear it in the amped sound the same way you hear the difference between picks of various sizes and materials.
This video is misleading. Game changer? No.
Eh maybe not for you. For me it was so yea
I agree after replacing bridge & tuners.
Agree with Tommy