BMW R1200GS ADVENTURE Fork Seal Cleaning | SUPER EASY! | Moto Maintenance 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Things I didn't point out in the video:
1. The top part of the seal assembly is just the dust seal keeping junk out.
2. The oil containing seal is just below that, inside the fork, with the spring ring not visible from the top.
3. Keeping the stanchions slightly oiled is ideal, for all bikes (mountain, etc.) that I've owned. But regular wipe downs to rid the dust and sand is important, obviously. Hopefully with a tad bit more diligence on my part from here on will prevent another issue like this for a long time!
I suspect a little sandy grime made it past the dust seal and got into the oil seal. Glad BMW designed it this way for easy removal and service. I'll come back and post a link here if I end up changing out the seals sometime down the road.
Why would anyone go to the trouble of removing the fork/forks and not change the oil and renew the seals. Not the best effort buddy. Sorry
I guess Whisky J1 doesn’t have that carousel you have that inverts the lower fork / complete bike assembly upside down to get the oil out. He did a fantastic job of getting the seal cleaned out with minimal effort. True, he could have spent three times as much time to change out the oil and seals that didn’t need doing. I guess that would have been your approach? I’ll wait to see your video on that. Cheers....
@@v8chevyman It's just an opinion matey. It wasn't meant to offend.
With a syringe and a tube you can change the oil in minutes.
Thanks for the video - It inspired me to tackle a leaky seal on my bike. I did need to unscrew the vent screw to get the stanchion in and out otherwise the vacuum/pressure was too much. I saw someone here say you're supposed compress fully and then set the valve screw, but my Hayne's manual says to set screw the valve screw in when the stanchion is in it's final place.
You need to open the vent screw on top of the fork...compress the fork all the way and replace the vent screw before installation
That little torx screw just opens a vent?!
Correct
🤦🏼♂️ Doh! Thanks man. 👊🏻
@@CaptMaxADV the o ring must be replace as per bmw
Thanks for the video. Process was easier than I imagined! Thanks to commentors on mentioning the vent screw.
Just had same happen on mine - right side top as well...lol.
Thank you for the video!
Going to try on my R1200RT that developed a leak left fork. Will replace oil & seals while I'm at it to save me another headache next year. And I'm left wondering whether Bob liked his taco? What kind of sauce did he use?
How has this fix held up? I'm thinking of trying the exact same fix even though I just bought seals and oil. The 2013 GS I just picked up with 3152 mi on it has a bad left seal leak. I tried the debris scrape tool and that didn't work. If this works similarly for me then I have a rebuild kit for when the seals are actually worn out. The seal replacement is a bit more involved with greater risk of collateral damage just to replace seals that are not bad. It looked to me like the vertical scratches in the chrome were the reason for the leak. My bike has always been garaged but it lived down a dirt road, thus scratches I think. Of course if I see a damaged seal my back is covered as well. I'm told it's easier to pull the wheel for seal replacement because of frustrating access and getting oil contaminated with metal flake out.
I ended up replacing with new seals. It never stopped seeping before that unfortunately. 😕
Why remove the polish? Surely it's better to be polished because less dirt would hang on it and be pushed off by the dust boot?
I'm not sure if I should tackle this job as there's a lot of unknowns. My RT has electronic suspension which is a complete mystery to me, I wouldn't know how much fork oil to put in, what that vent hole is for, stuff you said about pressure? Thing is, my local BMW deal has just closed down but they were going to charge a fortune for this and said they needed it for the day.
I think I was just polishing it as best I could. Removing any blemishes. It’s held up for about 5 years, no issues! If I had it apart again, and had the time and tools I’d not hesitate to give it another good polish. 🤷🏼♂️
Give it a shot. Not that complex. Take it to a shop if it gets beyond your ability. It’s nothing compared to rebuilding an engine!
I think I was just polishing it as best I could. Removing any blemishes. It’s held up for about 5 years, no issues! If I had it apart again, and had the time and tools I’d not hesitate to give it another good polish. 🤷🏼♂️
Give it a shot. Not that complex. Take it to a shop if it gets beyond your ability. It’s nothing compared to rebuilding an engine!
@@CaptMaxADV That sounds good, but in the video you were saying that you "removed" the polish by scoring it up. I would argue that it needs to be as smooth and shiny as possible to keep dirt from sitting on it, and the dust boot can more easily push debris off it rather than bypass it and allow it into the seals.
Obrigado pelo vídeo. Tive que virar o planeta atrás de um vídeo que deixasse claro como desmontar as bengalas da bmw R 1200. Preciso trocar o óleo das bengalas da minha.
Yesssss
Oh Donna
I was told my forks were leaking by my BMW dealer. and I don't see any fluid. is it possible they identified a ride height issue? This video was Super informational! oh, by the way. 2006 R1200GS
My understanding with the 2015 model (and similar design) is that the fork stanchions hold no pressure. The oil is just there for lubrication, there’s no pressure or suspension provided by them. The weight of the bike is held by the spring on the telelever behind the forks.
So my assumption would be that they didn’t identify a ride height suspension problem with leaks.
Can’t they just tell you more specifically what they mean?
And thanks!
@@CaptMaxADV I'm having a hard time physically wrapping my head around this having just performed this. When the fork compresses, the effective volume is reduced. It is an air tight system. I don't see how the fork can compress with pressure in the system increasing...
So much easier than a conventional upside down fork. Thanks!
🙌🏻
So you don't need to remove the front wheel to get to the fork seal???
That is correct! Particularly if you do one stanchion at a time then the wheel stays just fine.
@@CaptMaxADV Thanks for that! How much oil would I need for each fork and what grade please?
I bought a quart and new seals. Haven’t installed them yet. Don’t know the exact amount, I’ll have to google it. But the grade is called Telescopic Fork Oil Type 2. From BMW motorcycle shop.
I’m guessing each side will take 1/4 to 1/3 of a quart. One bottle will be enough for one service I’m sure.
@@CaptMaxADV Thank you Jeremy. I bought a Haynes manual and it tells me NOTHING about the type of oil or the quantity!!
Yet again another super Moto vid from the GSA1250 boss
😆 Sure dude! LOL
Great video. I have shared this on our social media. Hope that is ok.
Yo! Broduder, what is the torque spec on that 14 mm? Also did you torque strip the nut?
When I don’t know the torque specs I just tighten them back up as much as it took to take em off. This one was 2 ugga dugga’s. 😉 Cylinder heads, clutch packs, engine cases, other critical parts I find torque specs for for sure.
No torque stripe, next time I pop the cap off I’ll add one!
May be too late but might help someone else out. I believe the torture for the 14mm stud bolt nut is 40nm. And a dab of blue locktite.
The torture! Lol 😂
pal the easier would have been to remove the right fork from the bike inner tube and outer together
I would have to disagree. But if I try that route in the future I’ll let ya know!
Lol 😂
Yep
Thanks for posting the video! I have a similar issue with my right front fork on my 2016 GSA with 32k miles. I plan on replacing the seal and putting it back together. Did you have any further issues with the pressure of the fork tube, with not being able to vent/bleed it during reassembly?
You bet!
I had no further issues. I just did what you see in the vid, wiped them down, and they're doing just fine. I didn't "vent/bleed" anything. Good luck man!
@@CaptMaxADV Thanks for the reply. I was able to remove/replace the seals with no issues. Good as new! Take care!!