There is something very soothing watching a stationary drill bit create a hole in a rotating mass of metal, with a long spiral chip departing through the bits flutes.
Thanks, Keith! Don't listen to the haters, great repair and instruction. I'm doing the same repair for my Series 61 Monarch. I'm using 932 bearing bronze for this part, and intending to replicate the original dutchman and 2 dowel pin arrangement. The factory part appears to be a copper coated cast iron part, with a 0.001" press fit (which i will replicate). Mine is also worn into a similar abomination. The series 60/61 handle also has sheet metal covers and felt wipers held on with retaining rings to help with swarf and grit and retain some lubricant.
Just put the spare on the rod and push it back to the support block on the end of the bed out of the way. On the Famco press, make a wooden tray or anything really with cardboard or rag padding to set on the floor under the press. Trust me when your nice new, very expensive broach falls through and snaps in two when it hits the concrete floor you will cry.
More like 200 years, if I'm judging the machines age and current used model (weekend warrior) as opposed to the designed use model (full scale production). The truly telling thing is that 80 plus years ago it was designed to be replaceable. How many machines designed today will last 80 years let alone be repairable.
As a long time woodworker, I've never seen a square broach and appreciate the way it works....little by little. I make square holes with a mortising machine and assumed a machinist used something similar. Thanks for the education!
I must say I am a little disappointed there was no scraping required!!! Humour aside, a nice little video that covered several different, tough to describe techniques with exactly the right amount of detail to learn from. *Highly* enjoyable as always Keith!!!
There is always something really satisfying about watching a broach go through metal. At least I feel that way. That lathe is beautiful. I would love to be able to use it. Thanks so much for the update!
A lesson in just how much to take a job. Yes, it would have been better with a heat hardened part, possibly with a key-way cut out. On the other hand Keith could have just welded the old part with hard facing rods. None of that is necessary. Well done Keith, yet another demonstration in experience over what if.
Aside from AvE, TOT, and a number of others, I like this channel for simple and straight forward delivery and explanation. Would love to find a maker space locally that I could learn on.
Hard to believe a 3/4" square hole could get wollered out like that but not a problem for "The Master" to repair. Not many hobby shops have a 3/4" square broach!
Like was said below, I wonder why Monarch didn't use a flat point set screw and a small flat on the external of that bushing. Sure saves multiple drilling of the handle/bushing combination. See you at the Bar-Z. Jon
The job of this "Dutch Key" is two fold. That is, it holds the part (the bushing in this case) in both the radial and axial direction with one simple screw. It's a great design as it is for low torque situations. many machinists install 2 set screws 180 degrees apart for higher torque situations. Also, I always try to make the part( bushing here) a press fit before installing the Dutch Key - that way it will not walk on you as you drill and tap the parts as it did on Keith at time 15:00
Kind of surprised that you didn't make another bushing after it spun while you were forming the hole for the set screw, or at least faced it off to make it look pretty.
Keith never fails to post a great video, where I find much to learn. It is always a pleasure to see he has posted a new one. One question though, I am always surprised to see some old style box end wrenches used, whereas a set of ratcheting box end wrenches make most jobs go faster. So, is it that the ratcheting wrenches do not let you into some tight spots, or is it that the ratchets fail eventually? In my own admittedly light use, that has never been an issue for me.
When in doubt just clamp it into submission.......It is the little details like that that make the difference. But then it is always that kind of repair that gets put off till "next time". Good looking machine you have there.
Awesome fix! Don't you love these little surprises (drill bits slipping... etc)? I find them frustrating but they do give me a light bulb moment from time to time. So no complaints on my part... LOL
Nice fix and good for you to show the minor problem you encountered. A slightly different approach to clamping it down fixed the problem. Did you have the arbor table clamped? It seemed to be deflecting. Jeff
As you started drilling I thought "how did he keep it from turning?"... then it did. Lucky it wasn't deeper with the drill shattering and jamming hardened shreds in the gap.
I forgot that the handle had to slide down the square rod. The locking pin would need to be a set screw going through one side of the handle and square-holed bushing, having a polished flat face that pushes against the square rod lightly so that it can slide along it, but still keep any rotation from happening. If the bushing is a hard material with a close tolerance for a tight fit to the rod, the set screw would never cause any sideways wear as the handle was moved in its position.
That' not a square hole. In a perfect world things go according to plan. That's why they make hand grenades and atom bombs, but a center drill will work. Feels good having it engage as designed. Broaching that hole looked like fun. Thanks for sharing.
I sure hope you tested to insure the "mystery steel" is softer than the square rod. That's going to wear a tiny bit with every single traverse, and you want it to.
I would have used a small milling bit to make the hole as large as possible but just smaller than the drill for the tap. Milling bits don’t care that there are two different metals.
I would have changed monarch's design approach on that. What about a dog point set screw from the side and a pre drilled dimple in the bushing? Its a shame that with the current design with every new bushing you have to drill and tap new thread. As I see there is few of them already.
The job of the "Dutch Key" (existing design) is two fold. That is, it holds the part in both the radial and axial direction with one simple screw. It's a great design as it is for low torque situations. many machinists install 2 set screws 180 degrees apart for higher torque situations. Also, I always try to make the part( bushing here) a press fit before installing the Dutch Key - that way it will not walk on you as you drill and tap the parts as it did on Keith at time 15:00
How are the lead screws in the end cap lubed. Is that slot supposed to be stuffed with felt wick then an oring cut open and packed in slightly to prevent oil loss. With as many times as those might turn a minute. Also does bolt torque effect the gap width. Perhaps that's why it was so hard the drive off the ends.
A completely novice question... But... Why would you not weld up the predrilled holes and just make a keyway in both the handle and the bushing for squarestock with a side drilled set screw? Just seems to me to be a better way instead of having to drill a new set screw hole each time this part is replaced. (which seems to be quite often from the looks of the handle)
@@danielcobbins9050 was not referring to welding the parts together. Simply filling all the other drilled holes and then broaching a keyway into the handle with a set screw from the outside and machining a keyway onto the sleeve.
a) it's quicker and easier just to do it this way and until you actually run out of space for new holes - why not b) a set screw and keyway would prevent the bushing from spinning but not prevent it working out of the handle
Would having removed the tailstock and moving the carriage towards the tail and shortening the unsupported shafting made removing the shaft/ screw bushing support bracket easier? Never pulled one apart, so I'm only speculating. Other than that inquiry, I really like the channel and the variety of projects taken on. So cool on so many levels. With work, travel, homelife, the museum, your own massive home-shop, projects, machine rebuilds, hosting scraping classes, and making videos; where do you find the time for it all? Do you not sleep? Are you able to manipulate space-time? Can't quite conjour how you fit it all in.
ausshot83 It's much stronger put in the way he did it. The screw is used as a threaded key. It's a rather old time thing and I was surprised to see it.
@@ardvarkkkkk1 OK thanks my only question is how is it stronger (sorry I don't understand) that when a set screw could be screwed into the side and into the broached bearing for tight fit and it would also make it easy to readjust when the bearing wears out like the last one
Wouldn't you want to make the bushing in something softer then steel, like cast iron, or brass, so that the wear is on the bushing, and not the shaft which is harder to replace?
Also, that part might just be worth paying for a piece if higher strength steel considering how many times it seems to have been replaced. Maybe some shop work hardening of the piece?
Why do you need a lathe? "To make some reaplacement parts for the milling machine." Why do you need a milling machine? "To make parts for the arbor press." Why do you need the press? "To make parts for the lathe."
Hi Keith, just a question for you about this job. Since we know that this bushing is supposed to be a wear part would it not have been better to make it out of a softer material such as bronze or cast iron rather than steel? We know that it has been replaced various times in the life of the machine which makes sense since it is easier and cheaper to replace a bushing rather than replacing the square shaft it is attached to. I know I am not as experienced as you and would love it if you could increase my understanding by sharing your reasoning behind using steel in this case as opposed to something softer?
The square shaft is quite hard on a Monarch…if his mystery metal is low carbon, there is little chance of wear on the shaft. I just replaced my bushing and it was original at 78 years old
There is something very soothing watching a stationary drill bit create a hole in a rotating mass of metal, with a long spiral chip departing through the bits flutes.
Thanks, Keith! Don't listen to the haters, great repair and instruction. I'm doing the same repair for my Series 61 Monarch. I'm using 932 bearing bronze for this part, and intending to replicate the original dutchman and 2 dowel pin arrangement. The factory part appears to be a copper coated cast iron part, with a 0.001" press fit (which i will replicate). Mine is also worn into a similar abomination. The series 60/61 handle also has sheet metal covers and felt wipers held on with retaining rings to help with swarf and grit and retain some lubricant.
Should have made two of them. That way you will have a spare that you can't find in 5 years time!
Just put the spare on the rod and push it back to the support block on the end of the bed out of the way.
On the Famco press, make a wooden tray or anything really with cardboard or rag padding to set on the floor under the press. Trust me when your nice new, very expensive broach falls through and snaps in two when it hits the concrete floor you will cry.
More like 200 years, if I'm judging the machines age and current used model (weekend warrior) as opposed to the designed use model (full scale production). The truly telling thing is that 80 plus years ago it was designed to be replaceable. How many machines designed today will last 80 years let alone be repairable.
I have always heard that if a person has a metal lathe and a milling machine, they can make/duplicate everything in their shop. Thumbs Up!
There is something so satisfying about broaching.
It's as if you're thumbing your nose at round holes.
And it's done!
Always enjoy the videos.
Thanks.
You are quite the mechanic! Watching your work keeps me motivated to complete my projects.
I love that lathe. It sounds so good.
That thermometer on the wall was displaying a nice number. The Rucker has a cool shop!
As a long time woodworker, I've never seen a square broach and appreciate the way it works....little by little. I make square holes with a mortising machine and assumed a machinist used something similar. Thanks for the education!
Machinists can also use a rotary broach, metal shaper, filing machine and probably other methods. This is just one way.
I must say I am a little disappointed there was no scraping required!!!
Humour aside, a nice little video that covered several different, tough to describe techniques with exactly the right amount of detail to learn from. *Highly* enjoyable as always Keith!!!
There is always something really satisfying about watching a broach go through metal. At least I feel that way. That lathe is beautiful. I would love to be able to use it. Thanks so much for the update!
Love the true to life issues that we all come across no and then.
A lesson in just how much to take a job. Yes, it would have been better with a heat hardened part, possibly with a key-way cut out. On the other hand Keith could have just welded the old part with hard facing rods. None of that is necessary. Well done Keith, yet another demonstration in experience over what if.
How to put a square peg in a round hole? 12 ton Famco 5c arbor press.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice repair.
Glad to see it done and educational too.
Now that was interesting. Nice to see the ooops and the recovery with the desired result. Great video thanks for sharing you made my morning...Ken
My ENCO 1340 has the same problem. Broaching makes life easier. I hate a sloppy fitting handle. Some good machining and fine entertainment.
Sweet lathe, Keith. And painted my fave color for machinery.
Even the greats screw up every now and then, good to see the bloopers!
Aside from AvE, TOT, and a number of others, I like this channel for simple and straight forward delivery and explanation.
Would love to find a maker space locally that I could learn on.
I love it when a plan comes together.
Like how you show the trials and tribulations Keith, being honest of how things go. Nice job.
Nice one Keith, good for another 50 years.
Thanks for sharing,
Cheers
Great video. I need to do the same on my 12KK Monarch.
Hard to believe a 3/4" square hole could get wollered out like that but not a problem for "The Master" to repair. Not many hobby shops have a 3/4" square broach!
just a mere $482 from Fastenal for the broach.
Good to see that you’re actually doing some machining. I’ve missed that
I always enjoy your videos.
Great little fix... did anyone else see the table flexing on the arbor press or were my eyes playing tricks on me
Yes, noticed the same thing and wondered how heavy the bed was on the press.
Like was said below, I wonder why Monarch didn't use a flat point set screw and a small flat on the external of that bushing. Sure saves multiple drilling of the handle/bushing combination. See you at the Bar-Z. Jon
I love this channel.
Monacrh makes very good lathes and a nice restore on your lathe Keith
Wow, that Famco arbor press was made just 10 minutes South of where I live! Pretty neat seeing that in one of your videos.
The job of this "Dutch Key" is two fold. That is, it holds the part (the bushing in this case) in both the radial and axial direction with one simple screw. It's a great design as it is for low torque situations. many machinists install 2 set screws 180 degrees apart for higher torque situations. Also, I always try to make the part( bushing here) a press fit before installing the Dutch Key - that way it will not walk on you as you drill and tap the parts as it did on Keith at time 15:00
What a pleasure it is to use machines to fix themselves!
The knee of the arbor press seemed to be flexing ?
Hi Keith, thank you, Lance & Patrick
Kind of surprised that you didn't make another bushing after it spun while you were forming the hole for the set screw, or at least faced it off to make it look pretty.
Nice repair Keith. Works great.
Nice little 20 minute job for Monday morning! Makes you wonder why you didn’t do it sooner!
Nice video Keith, I need to make a couple for my old Monarch as well, so this is extremely helpful!
Keith never fails to post a great video, where I find much to learn. It is always a pleasure to see he has posted a new one. One question though, I am always surprised to see some old style box end wrenches used, whereas a set of ratcheting box end wrenches make most jobs go faster. So, is it that the ratcheting wrenches do not let you into some tight spots, or is it that the ratchets fail eventually? In my own admittedly light use, that has never been an issue for me.
When in doubt just clamp it into submission.......It is the little details like that that make the difference. But then it is always that kind of repair that gets put off till "next time". Good looking machine you have there.
Nice work sir, a pleasure to watch
As always Kieth you do a great job.
Very nice! Thanks for the great detail.
There's nothing like having the right bit of kit when you need it :-) nice job.
Awesome fix!
Don't you love these little surprises (drill bits slipping... etc)?
I find them frustrating but they do give me a light bulb moment from time to time.
So no complaints on my part... LOL
Quick and easy,
Many thanks, always instructive, also entertaining
Nice sharp drills.
Easy and quick fix 👍🏽
If at first you don't succeed, drill drill again! Great fix, thanks for sharing Keith.
Nice fix and good for you to show the minor problem you encountered. A slightly different approach to clamping it down fixed the problem. Did you have the arbor table clamped? It seemed to be deflecting. Jeff
Great work!
The lathe looks great. Whatever happened with the noise in the gearbox?
enjoyed as always
As you started drilling I thought "how did he keep it from turning?"... then it did. Lucky it wasn't deeper with the drill shattering and jamming hardened shreds in the gap.
K model is a nice lathe
Can’t say enough about mechanical advantage and hydraulic power. Thanks
Great vid as always!!
Nice job, I am surprised you didn't braze the previous set screw cavities and repaint the end and arm(not the ball).
I forgot that the handle had to slide down the square rod. The locking pin would need to be a set screw going through one side of the handle and square-holed bushing, having a polished flat face that pushes against the square rod lightly so that it can slide along it, but still keep any rotation from happening. If the bushing is a hard material with a close tolerance for a tight fit to the rod, the set screw would never cause any sideways wear as the handle was moved in its position.
That' not a square hole. In a perfect world things go according to plan. That's why they make hand grenades and atom bombs, but a center drill will work. Feels good having it engage as designed. Broaching that hole looked like fun. Thanks for sharing.
I noticed a lot of lathe owners make replacement parts for their machinery. FarmCraft101 made a chuck key for his Grizzly lathe.
heh, If only that Lathe could tell stories. Must have taken decades of use to woller out that bushing like that :)
I sure hope you tested to insure the "mystery steel" is softer than the square rod. That's going to wear a tiny bit with every single traverse, and you want it to.
its spinning in the handle because the drill is exerting a rotational force on it, and the axis of that rotational force is right at the edge.
Keith always has a handle on the situation.
I would have used a small milling bit to make the hole as large as possible but just smaller than the drill for the tap. Milling bits don’t care that there are two different metals.
I would have changed monarch's design approach on that. What about a dog point set screw from the side and a pre drilled dimple in the bushing? Its a shame that with the current design with every new bushing you have to drill and tap new thread. As I see there is few of them already.
The job of the "Dutch Key" (existing design) is two fold. That is, it holds the part in both the radial and axial direction with one simple screw. It's a great design as it is for low torque situations. many machinists install 2 set screws 180 degrees apart for higher torque situations. Also, I always try to make the part( bushing here) a press fit before installing the Dutch Key - that way it will not walk on you as you drill and tap the parts as it did on Keith at time 15:00
How are the lead screws in the end cap lubed. Is that slot supposed to be stuffed with felt wick then an oring cut open and packed in slightly to prevent oil loss. With as many times as those might turn a minute. Also does bolt torque effect the gap width. Perhaps that's why it was so hard the drive off the ends.
I’ve always heard those setscrew “keys” referred to as a “Dutchman”. Thanks for the vid.
That reminds me of the story of the Dutch boy, the leaky dam and his thumb in the leaky hole.
I noticed that the shop still has an echo. You need more machines! ;-)
i want a nice monarch lathe with all the bells and whistles
FAMCO knee bolts could use a tightening
Very nice Keith! Any idea when we might see an update to the radial drill table restoration?
power video
A completely novice question... But... Why would you not weld up the predrilled holes and just make a keyway in both the handle and the bushing for squarestock with a side drilled set screw? Just seems to me to be a better way instead of having to drill a new set screw hole each time this part is replaced. (which seems to be quite often from the looks of the handle)
He could not weld steel to iron. Iron, being softer, would have to be brazed. An iron-steel weld would break apart.
@@danielcobbins9050 was not referring to welding the parts together. Simply filling all the other drilled holes and then broaching a keyway into the handle with a set screw from the outside and machining a keyway onto the sleeve.
a) it's quicker and easier just to do it this way and until you actually run out of space for new holes - why not
b) a set screw and keyway would prevent the bushing from spinning but not prevent it working out of the handle
Using grub screws can be a challenge to keep the part from moving. I’ve had success by using a very small drill then stepping up.
Would having removed the tailstock and moving the carriage towards the tail and shortening the unsupported shafting made removing the shaft/ screw bushing support bracket easier? Never pulled one apart, so I'm only speculating. Other than that inquiry, I really like the channel and the variety of projects taken on. So cool on so many levels.
With work, travel, homelife, the museum, your own massive home-shop, projects, machine rebuilds, hosting scraping classes, and making videos; where do you find the time for it all? Do you not sleep? Are you able to manipulate space-time? Can't quite conjour how you fit it all in.
Second Arbor Day of 2019!
Keith, during the broaching it looked like the press table was flexing a good bit. Is there a lock on the table to keep it stiff?
Eric
Another great video just one question why didn't you put the set screw in from the side of the handle
ausshot83
It's much stronger put in the way he did it. The screw is used as a threaded key. It's a rather old time thing and I was surprised to see it.
@@ardvarkkkkk1 OK thanks my only question is how is it stronger (sorry I don't understand) that when a set screw could be screwed into the side and into the broached bearing for tight fit and it would also make it easy to readjust when the bearing wears out like the last one
Wouldn't you want to make the bushing in something softer then steel, like cast iron, or brass, so that the wear is on the bushing, and not the shaft which is harder to replace?
Should have drilled and taped the handle . A set screw would allow adjustment of the handle .
Hi Keith. Why did you not do that also, with the same problem at the head-stock? Or that is what I thought I saw in an earlier video.. Am I incorrect?
Love the videos!!! Keep them coming but I was wondering do you have asthma
Also, that part might just be worth paying for a piece if higher strength steel considering how many times it seems to have been replaced.
Maybe some shop work hardening of the piece?
It needs to sacrifice itself instead of wearing out the rod.
An end mill probably would have been the way to go to start that hole
There must be a good reason to use a set screw rather than keying the insert and the insert holder?
Nice repair, Keith. However, you could have simply jammed in some shim stock and had a semi-permanent repair. Just thinking.... (sarc).
Why do you need a lathe? "To make some reaplacement parts for the milling machine." Why do you need a milling machine? "To make parts for the arbor press." Why do you need the press? "To make parts for the lathe."
Hi Keith, just a question for you about this job. Since we know that this bushing is supposed to be a wear part would it not have been better to make it out of a softer material such as bronze or cast iron rather than steel? We know that it has been replaced various times in the life of the machine which makes sense since it is easier and cheaper to replace a bushing rather than replacing the square shaft it is attached to. I know I am not as experienced as you and would love it if you could increase my understanding by sharing your reasoning behind using steel in this case as opposed to something softer?
The square shaft is quite hard on a Monarch…if his mystery metal is low carbon, there is little chance of wear on the shaft. I just replaced my bushing and it was original at 78 years old
nice work, cool that you share the little issue...looked like the tap follower came from the “monkeys” Phil and Pierre...as I have one also
As the other Keith would say, pecker tracks.😉
Or as this Keith would say, gobbled up.
Eat away? Now you're just making me hungry.
I need to do the same repair to my Model K. I don't have a 3/4 square broach. Can I make the part and you broach it for me Keith?
Stake it with a chisel, creating a swelled edge and secure it in the hole?
Hello I like your video, every good, I'm Chinese
Maybe krazy glue or loctite the center piece before drilling?