Shimano Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket Replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- My bike has developed a nasty creak from both cranks over the past few weeks. I narrowed it down to the bottom bracket. Since I needed to replace it anyway, I took the opportunity and got the best one available that is compatible with my bike. Saved 10 grams from my bike! Super speed up hills.
I like your technique to protect your chain stay, using an old innertube wrapped around it! Genius!
Thank Clint Gibbs for the idea!
FYI, the "seals or washer or whatever there called" are listed by Shimano as "Ring" and Code# Y1F316000. Informative vid, Thanks!
Thanks for that info! So far, my BB has been smooth and quiet since this job, but I’ll definitely use that info to replace the rings if it acts up again. And, I’m glad if I can help.
Hand tight has always worked in my ten years, not a noise, loosening or binding. One of the most reliable and easiest to service.
Thanks mate. Due to this video i I was able to remove the Bottom Bracket without any force.
This is why I like this kind of Video's.
Thanks man, had my Surly moonlander blow up the bearings in my crank yesterday, your video gave me the confidence to replace it myself. Fellow North Westerner myself, wish I did more mountain trail riding when I was out there, but I did hike a lot of it.
Everything on a bike is very simple to work on. Any child over 6 years old could do it. Bike shops make this stuff out to require extensive training when in reality any bike job can be learned and completed by anyone, granted they have limbs to do the work.
Peeling Pedaler I’ve bought a new bike and with the right tools it’s easier than Lego obviously I don’t want to mess it up so I’m watching the videos so that I don’t
i don't anyone has ever told me to install the chain narrow to wide on the narrow wide chain ring, thank you!
9:05 - RJ is a legend, but the GCN blokes are entertaining.
One tip for torquing. The best way for approximating torque without a torque wrench is to use a luggage scale. The cost about $5 on eBay. Hook it on the end of the wrench, do the math on the lever distance and how many foot pounds you need, then pull the scale (at a right angle) until it reads the right thing. This has the perk of working in both directions, where most torque wrenches only click when operating on standard right-hand threads.
Did they seriously make a different 16 spline external BB tool for the Dura Ace?
Personally, I also keep a small collection of crapped out parts. They make for good educational tools when teaching friends about bike maintenance. Feeling a crusty bearing, seeing the inside profile of a deep section rim, etc.
Well, the tool you use is the same, but the Ultegra and DA BB interfaces are a smaller diameter in order to save weight, so the plastic adapters are necessary. The same FLC32 tool can be used with all Hollowtech II BBs, but the adapters are necessary for the Ultegra and DA ones. And yeah, unfortunately the Ultegra and DA adapters are different.
I'm gonna try that luggage scale hack for sure! Thanks! I might make a video on that. I calculated though that it will take about 54 pounds of force to torque my BB with my Luna Cycle wrench (it's 6.5 inches). 54 pounds is a lot less than I thought it was. So maybe I'm actually over-tightening it!
The only way to torque any bike part is with an accurate torque wrench, to manufacturer’s specs.
@@googler4520 Or you can crank on it until it spins freely and then back off a quarter turn. Gutentite!
@@swolebro
I don’t see the issue with using a torque wrench, it’s not difficult, and Shimano has detailed torque specs for everything they sell, all available online, and included with every product.
You’d be surprised how tight those BB external cups need to be, no way you’re getting anywhere near 35 Nm with a thin, short, wimpy wrench and a plastic insert. Not easy to get to 35-50 Nm without a decent torque wrench, and a high quality metal BB tool.
Dust cap should NOT be 'as tight as possible by hand'. It should tighten gently. Overtightening pushes the arms into the bearings. This might have been the reason, your original bearings developed premature wearing.
Correct: "Dust cap should NOT be 'as tight as possible by hand'."
I overdid it a bit according to Shimano. But so far, it has been running smoothly. That 'so far' is about 8,000 miles. So I don't think it matters so much. Not enough to remove the video, if that's what you were hoping for.
Incorrect: "your original bearings developed premature wearing."
My BB did not prematurely wear. It experienced 10,000+ miles and a full Seattle winter. Ask any PNW cyclist who rides almost everyday how often they need a new headset, BB, or hub bearings. Some riders go through 4 sets of hub bearings in a season. I got lucky and only had to replace mine once. Didn't make a video on that because I don't own the pressing tools.
@@peelingpedaler3635 The service guide from Shimano specifies 0.7-1.5 nm. I would say that hand tighten is close enough. Not critical as long as it is not too loose.
Dude you only have to preload the play, then when no play tighting up pinch bolts.ike over guy said your bearings will wear out.
What they said ☝️
@@peelingpedaler3635 you got plenty of miles out of it! at least these arent too difficult to change.I can tell you from experience this isn't always the case with square taper bb.mine had become seized to the spindle like an amalgam and took me days of sawing and drilling to get it off.Id say you've done very well to get 10,000 miles out of a bb ofany kind.the good thing about these is if you did go a big tour around America say or Canada then you could carry one or two of these on you and you don't need many tools really,just tool to tighten bb up then allen keys for the cranks.
Glad that lower weight will help ya' up the hills! Plastic thing you are referencing is called a tube. LoL all kidding aside..good vid and pointing out its reverse thread one side helped me :-) now i will go take mine apart.. thank you.
Very helpful video and managed to successfully and simply replace my damaged bottom bracket!
Rj is a freakin badass. I love his content. I'm gonna get one of these
Thank you for the friendly PSA at the end. Its an easy task that goes a long way. Cheers.
Wish everyone would stop driving cars though. And stop eating animals. Those two things would go a lot further than recycling a few pieces of dirty paper.
I agree. It's a tedious process for sure, but hopefully the majority of society will begin to see that what they are doing has consequences, and tht they are playing a roll in all of this destruction. I'm not perfect. I drive a car. But it takes a mass amount of people to become consciously aware of whts happening for things to change with our current societal norms. That, or clean energy just becomes so much more consumer friendly (which it will) and lab meat becomes socially excepted and cheaper, tastier, and healthier.
@@stevencasale1589 So you think that just because everyone else won't make the change, you don't need to? What if everyone has your same attitude? How will society ever make the change?
Excellent. Thanks. Just about to install the same BB in my Specialized Roubaix
how do they recycle tissues covered in grease mixed with samples of your riding locations?
The end cap sets the end play on the crankset. The worn out washers are thrust washers; would recommend replacing with new.
Nice white carpet for cleaning your bike on
Wife must not be at home hehe.
@@rothschildkilledjfk6237 wait until his mother gets home.
@@11rollercoaster Hehe...
So, after discounting the GCN method i.e. hand tight , you go on to tighten by hand and not with a torque wrench as implicitly suggested by R.J.
I clearly used a tool. How is that "hand tight"? LOL
Hand tight does not mean just using your hand and no wrench,it`s a term like engineers tight. It`s about judgement.
I cannot believe GCN have ever suggested tightening a BB using your hand only
According to your definition, hand tight could be the same as using an impact wrench with the torque limiter turned off. LOL. Hand tight is "hand tight", bro. Basically, to tighten, by hand, with very little or no mechanical advantage. The 10" tool adds mechanical advantage, therefore it is not hand tightening if I use it. The plastic preload bolt used to install HHii BBs, however, can be considered hand tight since the mechanical advantage is little to none.
@@peelingpedaler3635 if you are not joking, this is just wrong, diditakvelvet explaind it correct.
if you do a turtorial please do your research, so nobody gets wrong advice.
Hand tight means tightened my hand without the aid of a tool. I checked 2 dictionary definitions to make sure I wasn't trippin'.
A couple notes - I have the OEM Shimano tool FC-32, and it refuses to fit any of these various iterations of plastic adapters, which also don't fit into a non-Park socket that did fit the original external cups, all now discontinued. If you have an older bike and prefer the narrower Q factor that most square taper cranks gave, seriously consider upgrading to the SKF sealed BB brackets still available in the variety of widths and threadings, because all these new external systems have dramatically wider spacings to fit the wider frame members on wide rear hubs and suspensions. I'm replacing an 18 year old Race Face triple crank on the original Shimano sealed BB that still is immaculate despite dust, mud, water, rain, etc. The weight savings is significant, but no external bearing system is near as sealed, nor as optimally aligned, as the one-piece canister design. Perhaps big power strokers can destroy them but not me. Torque settings are very important on modern bikes with alloys and carbon; often lubing and using Loctite together may effect a non-squeaking fit that is still protected and removable later. Without an appropriate torque wrench, it is next to impossible to gauge settings by feel, usually undertightening higher range, while overtightening light range parts.
I think the extra maintenance is worth the weight savings to be honest. And the slight extra width doesn’t both me. I have a 200mm wide ebike crankset and it feels fine. This 146mm(?) is plenty narrow and I have narrow hips. Probably personal preference, but the extra width is actually nice when cranking out of the saddle on a climb. Agreed, torque wrench is important, but hopefully the video is still helpful for some. Thanks for commenting.
Great learning material, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
hi! i suppose dura-ace-BB-cups work also with ultegra cranks, right? thank you & best regards ;-)
they do. As long as the crank is a hollowtech 2 crank and it's 24mm then it will work.
Interesting to see that you have 1x on the road bike. I decided to build a road bike with one chainring in front and didn't see anybody going with Shimano, so I went and got myself SRAM Rimal 42T X-SYNC. Too bad I didn't see your video before.
Do you like your 1x? What cassette do you have on the back? Thanks.
Your Sram setup will work better, don't regret your choice. I like my bike, yeah. It works. Sometimes I wish the jumps between gears were smaller, but at least it's super reliable and low maintenance. I have an XT 40t cassette on now.
Thanks for the reply. I think your 40t at the be back is great when you have 1x. (I never tried it, it's just IMO from the ratio calculations). My plan is to have 10-42t at the back -- this is because my town has pretty steep hills. Yes, I know BIG jumps, but I'm OK to have big jumps in ratio if I can have one less cable and cleaner front setup. Cheers.
I had a 10-42 on for a long time, too. It’s a good way to go. Those Sram cassettes are pretty lightweight and look nice. I’d still have it but after about 10,000 miles, it wore out and I haven’t bought another yet. Pricey. But if you buy the XX1 or X01 tier, the big cog is replacable with Wolftooth or OneUp. You can even up it to a 44t or 46t. I’d have a 70t if they made one... Thinking of saving up for XTR di2 3x11 with Ultegra di2 shifters. Same benefits of 1x using syncroshift, HUGE range, and with a 32t cassette, close jumps. For no less than $2,500 though.
1x 105 Crankset: How many teeth? Shimano's P/N? [PLEASE!]
15-20 NeMeter IS slow i think, the correct tighten i think that Will be 45-50 Nm. I am speaking about BSA cups, to the non Drive side cranckset Will be 12-14 Nm.
Great video, very helpful thanks.
You’re very welcome. Thanks for viewing!
What about the spacers on the bottom bracket cups?
BTW You should not torque the "dust cap" that much.
I keep seeing people say this but where's the proof? I've had my aluminum cap torqued down atleast 8nm for the past 2yrs and had absolutely no problems with my crank or BB. You know when i did have a problem though, when i had the original plastic cap hand tightened down. I use an aluminum cap torqued down now because the plastic cap fell off and i lost it.
@@NonLegitNation2 The proof is in the instructions from Shimano. I torque it too much then back it off untill it is loose then torque it until it's tight and then another 16/turn just to make sure it will never loosen.
Wow you really over tightened the reloader. Only needs to be 1nm but one finger in the hole and turn will be tight enough.
until it falls out because it wasn't tight enough. i had that happen that's why i now have an aluminum cap that i tightened down to 8nm.
@@NonLegitNation2 that’s one way to crush a bearing
Since when would GCN say hand tighten a bottom bracket? Regardless of what RJ says, it's Shimano who you should refer to...
Shimano says 35-50 Nm torque. I just got the socket tool so I can check it. Just hand tight has had problems and wore out quick, for me.
Can I fit it in normal cycle?
Next time apply a bit of grease on the crank axle.
Why?
Peeling Pedaler idk either but all the professional mechs do it
Does this bb ll serviceable?
thanks for the video, was there a part # on the old BB ?, how did you know which one fits your bike ?, thx
Just call a bike shop in a random state and ask them, pretending of course that you’ll be picking it up there. After they tell you what you need. Just hang up.
Damn , if only that 10 grams where cocaine you would go even faster uphill !
No I wouldn’t. I would go slower because I would have 10 grams less cocaine than before.
Hi guys, if there's a bearing problem in a hollowtech bottom bracket.. Are you replacing this whole??
Yes.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I might not consider using a mallet as the ideal technique to remove the drive-side crank as you mentioned. I'd say the way you did it by hand is ideal and resorting to using a mallet would be secondary. That's just how I think of it.
Nice video.
You could probably save grams removing the zip tie tube chain stay wrap.
But then the chain wacks the chainstay when I'm coasting down trails 🤷🏻♂️Ands that's annoying!
On a cream carpet. Your brave.
Wife won't like it!!!
The maintenance of Bottom Bracket I understand and agreed . The question is why someone would change a Bottom Bracket ? I would appreciate your explanation . Thank you .
Because sadly, these specific parts are not designed to be serviced. They must be replaced.
Won’t that unthread the bottom bracket if it turns clockwise
Yes, but it has to be threaded one way or the other. And it’s more safe to let it loosen itself than have it jam. Plus it won’t damage the BB shell if it’s allowed to come out. Better to let the cranks fall off the bike than lockup during a sprint, when the bearings are most likely to jam.
Nice! Thanks!
Glad to help!
My botton bracket has a slight creak soubd when pedalin.. Do i need to replace the bottom bracket now?
It depends if the creak is truly your BB. A similar creak can be heard from front or rear skewers, pedals, seat post, even rack mounts. Try tightening your skewers and if you carry weight on a rack, tighten the rack bolts. Remove, lubricate and tighten your seat post.. Then tighten up your cranks to the proper torque. If there’s still a creak, it’s most likely your BB and you’ll need to replace it. Not to worry, these can be found super cheap at around 30 or 40 USD and should last you thousands or tens of thousands of miles.
@@peelingpedaler3635 i feel there is something creaking when i shake the crank.. If the bearing of hollow tech is the problem. Do i need to replace the whole bottom bracket right? Or can i replace only the bearing? Is there any?
@@freyfreymarcelo503 You need to replace the whole BB. It's only 25-40 bucks depending on where you shop. Even if you were to replace the bearings only, as you would in a headset, you'd be paying about the same amount. Better than the $200-500 it could cost to replace just a single wheel bearing on a car!
@@peelingpedaler3635 ok sir. Thank you.
@@peelingpedaler3635 Not if FSA makes it, they won't. 😛
No spacers needed?
Only needed for MTB versions of this design, far as I know.
How do dust caps preload the bearings?
The stress of a BB bearings is received not only vertically but also laterally (from the sides). The dust cap preloads any lateral force to the bearings so that when you ride your bike after a fresh BB install, no lateral play will develop over time. Or, at least less lateral play. Eventually the bearings will wear out and play will develop. When that happens, you can decide to either loosen the pinch bolts, tighten that dust cap and retighten the pinch bolts OR buy a new BB.
Super helpful! Thanks!
No problem! Thanks for viewing!
Why is the drive side left hand threaded?
In order to prevent you from threading the BB into the BB shell while pedaling and damaging your BB shell in the event the BB locked up.
OMGerd my hollowtech cranks started creaking and the NDS had one of those "rings" snapped off :(
Nicely explained
Thanks for watching
The tread on my frame is wourn out, do you know how could I repair it?
You’d have to get it rethreaded for a wider diameter BB. This is highly-skilled work and I would only have a pro do it. It may turn out to be more expensive than your frame is worth or there might not be a way to do it depending on your BB shell shape and material. There might be other technique, such as welding in a cylinder of metal and then drilling it out and threading it. I’m not the expert here, to be honest.
Take it to lbs get them rechase the threads 1st. If its bad they can helicoil it so your threads are same as new.
RJ The Bike Guy: NOT cool working on cream carpet!
Is that a pressfit bb
No. Threaded.
What rear hub do you have sounds good
Sram 900, thanks. Its certainly loud but the tone is very ringy, IMO. I like others that are less ringy and with a deeper tone.
Good vid, thanks... 👍💥🚀🙏
No problem 👍
Can you tell me which BB replaced the SM-BB70 botom bracket?
Idk
I so need to do this job.
I think I've got sand in my bottom bracket
Sorry for that.
old coffee can with solvent is great for degreasing
True! I like Simple Green Bike Degreaser though bc it doesn't burn my hands so much when using it without gloves. 1 can lasts me about 6 months.
guys i had to rip this off of a spare bike the other day and install onto my 'new' bike - the whole shebang. the BB and the cranks. the bottom bracket shell was identical so that was not an issue. had the proper tool too. first 10 miles on the bike were bliss. pure joy. then there is this 'clonk' coming from the bottom bracket . not good . got the bike home and noticed that the bolts holding the non drive crank had worked a bit loose. Hmmm. retensioned them and checked tension of bearing again. 'Clonk' is still there on each revolution of the pedals, . Anyone any ideas please ?
Make sure you tighten the dust cap BEFORE you tighten the pinch bolts. And make sure you've torqued the bolts adequately and evenly. The "clonk" could be coming from one of your pedals since you say it is at the same frequency of pedal rotation. Is your BB worn out? Are your chainring bolts all adequately torqued?
Luna 🌛
Rego ne berapa..
Anyone tried using shimano bb on sram gxp crankset?
No spacers how come?
I think it's because this is a road BB and shell. Mtb might be different.
Thanks for an easy to learn education video! And the tips about RJ the bike guy (th-cam.com/users/shyflirt1). You can never add to many bad ass bike guys :). You don't recycle plastics? Here in Sweden we have the following, downstairs in the garbage room: One bin for every of this: Paper but not newspaper and wellpapp (cardboard?), Newspaper, wellpapp, plastics, clear glass, colored glass, metall (like lids and cans), food waste, batteries, light bulbs, fat (oil and grease and stuff from cooking), electric household products (like lamps, raisors, hair dryers, radios), and finally a bin for just the rest (which is like nothing). The rest of the trash like petroleum, glass, bricks, metalls, furniture and stuff you need to go to the recykle station in your community and throw it there in various stations or bins. Everything is recycled one way or another... but it is for free though.
What is your bike?
2016 Trek 720. It's a great do-it-all bike! Just comes with bad gearing for adventures, in my opinion.
White carpet and bike repairs probably don't go together
Not using torque key; can't recommend. 😕
Si no manches es un montón de diferencia en peso...😐gramos...? Por eso no podías con la subida...jaja...🥴😂
It`s a bit disappointing to see the crankset dustcap not really doing anything good in terms of bolting down the assembly.
The stress of a BB bearings is received not only vertically but also laterally (from the sides). The dust cap preloads any lateral force to the bearings so that when you ride your bike after a fresh BB install, no lateral play will develop over time. Or, at least less lateral play. Eventually the bearings will wear out and play will develop. When that happens, you can decide to either loosen the pinch bolts, tighten that dust cap and retighten the pinch bolts OR buy a new BB.
Clean your bike more often please :(
"This is all you need..." halfway through job pulls out a tool he never mentioned.
This is my first tutorial video. Cut me some slack? Hope the video helped you.
@@peelingpedaler3635 Hahaha! I was being good natured. It actually did help as it was the exact tool I was missing. I just ordered the FLC 32 and the job is on hold midway until Sunday.
Voice is very droney😒
I have the same set up. I notice some play. Any advice on how to tight the nut to see of this is the solution to get rid od the play
Play where? The crank arms? Loosen the pinch bolts all the way, tighten the dust cap, then tighten the punch bolts to the spec torque. If there is still play in the crank arms, there may be an incompatibility in your setup, or you need a new BB.
@@peelingpedaler3635 i took it apart and realized the barings still good it was the plastic that came off on the drivetrain baring. Now all is back correctly.
Rego ne berapa..