Join us as we get this layout fully operational. Wiring the layout is an area I have not always been strong on when coming to confidence, The worry is that once wired will it work.
Instead of mounting your point control unit on the baseboard edge, whi don't you mount it on top of the base board in one of the backscene buildings that could be reconfigured as a signal box , because, after all, what you will be mounting is a signal box frame; and it will be less in the way on top, especially if you fix reinforcement to the building surrounding it, it will not be damaged. Hope this helps. Regards, Paul.
Nice video Tris. The wiring has never been a strong point of mine but I'll get better as time goes on. Now you can begin the fun stuff Scenery! - Nicholas.
I used to have a red and white Mk 1 Austin Cooper S built in 1967 a bit like your Oxford Mini, it had pressed aluminium number plates I believe these are correct up to 1972. In 1973 the modern perspex ones were brought into use. Nice to see you are using the Ratio oil depot kit. A great episode today definitely learnt from this, did you have any problems with centering your seep point motors? I have heard they can be troublesome to fit.
I’m debating buying the DCC Concepts ADS-4SX accessory decoder, instead of the conventional CDU. The big advantage of it is the ease of wiring, since you can simply wire everything into the unit itself. You can wire in switches and LEDs to do a control panel, as well as the frog and point motors themselves. It should, hopefully, make setting up the mimic panel a lot easier. Fingers crossed…. 😂
Hi Tris. It's nice to watch your progress. I noticed that towards the end of the video, the choc block would be in the way as you fold back the fiddle yard. Why not put this under the base board with a longer cable to allow fold away of the yard. Could the power lead connection be mounted under the base board with a slot in the timber to allow the cable from the controller to be connected to the connection. The points controller could be mounted on top of the base board inside the building. Idea's Idea's. You did say you wanted to hear from your viewers. As always It's upto you
Coming along very nicely Tris! BTW, black and silver number plate is fine on that mini. I can't remember the cutoff but I think it is cars earlier than 1969, or there abouts.
Following the build as I hope start my first layout over the Xmas hols and need to get my head around the process. Is wiring always this scary? Any tips on “wiring for beginners” would be fab. Looking forward to your next instalment.
Hi tris I’m a big fan, where did you get the hand held drill that you used in the video of you upgrading the hornby 0-4-0 for the hand rails just curious because I’m going make some custom locos and I don’t know where to the tools
Good video, I enjoy watching your channel. Normally momentary switches are used to switch point motors so the motor only has power at switch over. Your switches look like they keep power to the point motor which would burn out the point motor even with a CDU or does your system get round this? Thank you.
Thanks Tris, got back from a crap drive around the M25 to find this had landed. Good inspiration for me to start a layout instead of prevaricating. Is there a good reference guide for wiring you can recommend?
It's a little bit dated, but the PSL Book of Model Railway Wiring by Cyril J Freezer covers the basics in an easy to follow manner. I don't think it is in print anymore, but is still available 2nd hand from a lot of places.
Wow wiring ……can’t wait to get started …..not. I understood if you’re at an exhibition but I guess I was expecting the switches to be on the other side as you need the fold out section to be on right i.e. on the radiator side of your model room so you can get out…… but maybe I’ve misunderstood 😮
Hi Tris black number plates are still legal on pre 1972 cars so I hope this snippet of info will help put a suitable age to your project. Cheers Ian
You could connect both of the points on the loop to one switch so they always change at the same time and at the same way preventing shorts.
Instead of mounting your point control unit on the baseboard edge, whi don't you mount it on top of the base board in one of the backscene buildings that could be reconfigured as a signal box , because, after all, what you will be mounting is a signal box frame; and it will be less in the way on top, especially if you fix reinforcement to the building surrounding it, it will not be damaged. Hope this helps. Regards, Paul.
Excellent. It's a bit tense and wonderful at the same time when all the wiring works. I'm looking forward, as I always do, to seeing the progress. 😊
Hi Tris , great to see the layout running.👍
I will need to take notes from this when I truly start modelling railways.
Nice video Tris. The wiring has never been a strong point of mine but I'll get better as time goes on. Now you can begin the fun stuff Scenery! - Nicholas.
Really helpful video - thanks for sharing since anything to do with wiring/electronics is an eye-opener. Happy New Year too.
I used to have a red and white Mk 1 Austin Cooper S built in 1967 a bit like your Oxford Mini, it had pressed aluminium number plates I believe these are correct up to 1972. In 1973 the modern perspex ones were brought into use. Nice to see you are using the Ratio oil depot kit. A great episode today definitely learnt from this, did you have any problems with centering your seep point motors? I have heard they can be troublesome to fit.
Good video. Nice to see progress
Good video Tris! Glad to see the progress you've had here :)
#inspiring
White and Yellow number plates came in January 1971. My 1964 classic car was registered with black and silver plates and still has them.
Wow all that wiring I wouldn’t know where to start
I’m debating buying the DCC Concepts ADS-4SX accessory decoder, instead of the conventional CDU. The big advantage of it is the ease of wiring, since you can simply wire everything into the unit itself. You can wire in switches and LEDs to do a control panel, as well as the frog and point motors themselves. It should, hopefully, make setting up the mimic panel a lot easier. Fingers crossed…. 😂
Hi Tris. It's nice to watch your progress. I noticed that towards the end of the video, the choc block would be in the way as you fold back the fiddle yard. Why not put this under the base board with a longer cable to allow fold away of the yard. Could the power lead connection be mounted under the base board with a slot in the timber to allow the cable from the controller to be connected to the connection.
The points controller could be mounted on top of the base board inside the building.
Idea's Idea's.
You did say you wanted to hear from your viewers.
As always It's upto you
First Comment, also, nice video Tris. Great work on the Shunting Yard layout.
Coming along very nicely Tris!
BTW, black and silver number plate is fine on that mini. I can't remember the cutoff but I think it is cars earlier than 1969, or there abouts.
Pre 73 for the old school plates
Following the build as I hope start my first layout over the Xmas hols and need to get my head around the process. Is wiring always this scary? Any tips on “wiring for beginners” would be fab. Looking forward to your next instalment.
Just an idea how about a little fold down shelf for the point switch
Hi tris I’m a big fan, where did you get the hand held drill that you used in the video of you upgrading the hornby 0-4-0 for the hand rails just curious because I’m going make some custom locos and I don’t know where to the tools
Good video, I enjoy watching your channel. Normally momentary switches are used to switch point motors so the motor only has power at switch over. Your switches look like they keep power to the point motor which would burn out the point motor even with a CDU or does your system get round this? Thank you.
Great video as usual. I was wondering what size wire you used?
Thanks Tris, got back from a crap drive around the M25 to find this had landed. Good inspiration for me to start a layout instead of prevaricating. Is there a good reference guide for wiring you can recommend?
It's a little bit dated, but the PSL Book of Model Railway Wiring by Cyril J Freezer covers the basics in an easy to follow manner. I don't think it is in print anymore, but is still available 2nd hand from a lot of places.
@@delboy1727 Thanks Del, I'll do some digging.
Wow wiring ……can’t wait to get started …..not. I understood if you’re at an exhibition but I guess I was expecting the switches to be on the other side as you need the fold out section to be on right i.e. on the radiator side of your model room so you can get out…… but maybe I’ve misunderstood 😮