I hope you realize how much watching your skill helps us amateur restorers have faith in tackling what looks like a “lost cause” and that it can be brought back from a hopeless basket case.
Wow, you are a true professional! I've been a steel fabricator for 35 plus years, I understand everything you've done. I know thin metal is a whole different animal, I'll be watching your videos when I restore my 68. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Do you end up finishing both sides of the panel the same way? I know all welders are different, but I'd be interested in knowing what size wire and settings you use. Seems hotter than usual, Cheers
Very , very nice work along with the explanation. I am always amazed how clean your shop is even with all this metal work.Kudos to you. Thank you so much.
Man, I appreciate that you're all about quality! Impressive attention to detail which is so lacking in a lot of industry and specialty businesses! Superb work!
Congrats on 30+K Robert! Nice work, didn't realize high build primer could cover the 36 grit, thought you'd have to go a bit higher, at least 120 or so. Thanks for the videos, here's to 50K and more!
Thanks ! on the 36 grit I meant to metal finish, finish out the area with 80, 120, 180 before primer. I didn't realize I said the next step is primer.... good catch. Thanks
great video as always. I need to close the gap on a mustang I'm working on. What type of filler rod do you recommend. Aftermarket door has 1/4" gap between fender.
Hi Robert, Congrats on the subscription milestone! Great work as usual. I am curious how you will deal with the rust pitting. On my project I am using Dyna-glass fiberglass filler on rust pits.
That replacement piece came out great. One suggestion. You used a lot of cutting, grinding and sanding materials. A list of those items used would be most useful. I did follow along with paper and pen so I got what was used but it does make the video a little longer. Thanks!
@@DA-cg3du Great question, if it's painted the metal has to be dress ( ground ) flush with the surrounding metal, that is a job in it's self to not dress the metal too thin and leave enough metal in the repair... not impossible.... but very time consuming. Re-undercoating allows you to leave a little more weld and hide it with the undercoat making for a stronger repair.
I have a good question Robert..During the Metal work process and when the body is on the Frame Fixture..when the body is put back on the frame. Wouldn't the body and doors gaps move? I'm thinking the body would flex and shift..so I'm thinking of doing the same thing I would wait until the body is on fresh body mounts to do the door gaps.(metal slicing and adding coat hanger to fill in gaps)Thanks again!
I saw on Hubbards impala parts website they sell an outer and inner wheelhouse with a (modify for convertible) in parentheses. I wonder if they have be some kind of diagram or directions for the modification.
The difference being the main shape of the arch. The convertible inner wheelhouses have a large flat area on top which is tilted toward the front of the car. The purpose being to make room for the convertible top mechanism frame when it's put down into the folded position. Pause this video at 2:02 for a good look at the shape of the hardtop wheelhouse (reproduction), and then pause again at about 5:46 to see the different shape of the large flat tilted-forward area on top of the original convertible wheelhouse. As far as the modification goes, Robert has probably shown the best way to do it right here. Hopefully none of our cars are ever rusted out up high enough to need to get into that flat area!
Hi Robert. Sincerely appreciate you taking the time to explain the hows and whys to us beginners. I have a question regarding the original rust pits at around @17:04. For me, I would be tempted to cut out/replace the area containing the original rust pits 'to make it perfect'. But I see you left that area still there. What is your theory behind that please?
Thanks those were shallow pits that had already been media blasted. Important rule of thumb, always cut out the least amount of metal as possible or you will get into alot of problems. Thanks
@@guzzifabrication3448 Hi Robert, I had the same question so thanks a billion (cause a million just ain't enough anymore). Those suckers are pricey but I am going to order some and give them a try. Best to you and yours and happy Thanksgiving. Later Jay
So…I’m working on this 59 Apache panel truck, right? There was nothing left of the B pillars, cab instep, hinge pocket, lower A pillar, floor, parts of the toe board, and WOW! The doors were flopping, and basically barely holding on! I had not a single reference point to start with or end with. Now? At least the door hangs solidly on the hinge, and I did a ton of cutting in/patches and stuff! What do you do in situations like this? It looks “ok” and solid, but s few things did not line up as they should. I will say this…the floor is flat now, and the transmission cover, lines up. Help!
@@guzzifabrication3448Yo Guzzster, here’s the deal. I totally blame you for showing me how to save old metal. Today, I cut the other side in to the point of rehanging the door. I had a few reference points, but not much. When I welded in the lower hinge pocket brace, and screwed the new instep in place, the freaking door actually shut “nearly” like it was suppose to! Too late to turn back now. I’m going to have a nice panel truck when done! Also, I practiced the flapper wheel bit after welding. I did ok, but fairly happy with the results! Glad I’ve been watching you videos! They have been a huge help!!!
This is sort of Fitzee's Cut and Butt method of repairing panels. He always leaves the old panel in place behind the new panel/patch. I cannot explain it but check out Fitzees Fabrication. He is from New Foundland and he does some amazing work with rusted out vehicles. Nice repair. I got some info out of it so thank you.
I love it when people try to correct me and they don't know what they are talking about.... Classic industries.... probably the largest aftermarket parts suppliers calls this part a wheel house... oh yeah so does every other professional in this industry... I guess we are all wrong.... Maybe you should learn from the video and stop trying to fault find....
If it’s a non attainable part, what was the part you got the donor piece from? Could you not have just installed that entire piece that you cut the repair section out of?
Convertible wheel houses are not reproduced, coupe wheel houses are..... the video shows using a coupe wheel house as a donor to repair a non-available convertible wheel house...
Bro….using what is available is the name of the game! Building a new inner wheel tub like that would be, and is cost prohibitive! I’d have done the exact same thing! Besides that, the other part can be used for other projects! Guzzy did the right thing!
@@jimmyjames-ky2uu convertible wheel houses are different than hardtop wheel houses they do not reproduce a convertible the easiest repair is to use a donor hardtop wheelhouse to repair the lower section of the convertible wheelhouse.
Reproduction convertible wheel house are not available they are different than a coupe wheel house.... the repair uses a coupe donor.... what was your question ?
Wow, 30K congrats!!! You should be at a million with the great how to videos you provide. Keep it going man.
I really appreciate that !!
I hope you realize how much watching your skill helps us amateur restorers have faith in tackling what looks like a “lost cause” and that it can be brought back from a hopeless basket case.
You are the type of person I make these videos for... I really appreciate you supporting the channel !
Another fantastic video. Excellent craftsmanship.
@@rickjackson3414 that's an awesome compliment thank you Sir ! I will do my best to live up to that and thank you for supporting my channel !
I thought all hope was lost until I saw this video, thanks! 👍
It was pretty rough... Thanks !
Beautiful craftsmanship! Congratulations on 30k subscribers. 👏🏻
Thank you Sir !!
Wow, you are a true professional! I've been a steel fabricator for 35 plus years, I understand everything you've done. I know thin metal is a whole different animal, I'll be watching your videos when I restore my 68. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Thank you Sir ! I'm glad you liked the video !
Do you end up finishing both sides of the panel the same way? I know all welders are different, but I'd be interested in knowing what size wire and settings you use. Seems hotter than usual,
Cheers
.025 works well for this repair, every welding machine is different, I turned the machine down a little to the 16 V range. Thanks !!
Another fine job 👍
Thanks !!
A masterclass in bodyworking presented in the very best way - no annoying music and simple straight to the point commentry.
That's an awesome comment ! Thank you Sir !!
Congratulations on 30,000 subs ..... And another great video
Thank you !!
Congrats 😊, proud to be a part of it💪
I appreciate the support and I'm glad your part of the family !!
You have the best auto body channel. Your clean well lit shop makes it nice to watch. And no excess bla bla bla. I really like your channel
Thanks for the comment I appreciate you and supporting my channel !!
That is so nice, I watch these over and over, you are the best restoration guy I have ever seen as well as a great teacher!
I really appreciate you Mr. Switzer !! That comment goes along way.
Thanks Robert!!! Love the way you explain the processes! There are 4 channels I look forward to each week and you are def one of them!!
That's awesome I really appreciate the support !!
Another great video! Hands down !! Keep putting out the content brother, we appreciate it!!
Thanks brother !!
Very , very nice work along with the explanation. I am always amazed how clean your shop is even with all this metal work.Kudos to you. Thank you so much.
@@vehdynam That's an awesome comment thank you Sir !!
I prefer this kind of method where possible. Here we call it cut-n-butt thanks to Fitzee.
Thanks for the comment !
Another great job that makes the repair look like original!
Thank you Sir !!
Awesome craftsmanship👌. Nice to see how people know how to do a real job. Always great videos 🤩👍
@@kennethengstrom9261 Thank you Sir !!!!
🎉
♥
Man, I appreciate that you're all about quality! Impressive attention to detail which is so lacking in a lot of industry and specialty businesses! Superb work!
Thank you Sir !!!
Thank you,Robert. Congratulations on your channel growth. 👍👍👍
Thank you Sir !!
wow sweet, 30,000 congratulations brother
Really appreciate you @numbskullskills !!
@@guzzifabrication3448 appreciate you too bud
Great to see the 30K subscriptions!
Really happy with hitting this mark, thank you Sir !!
Congrats on 30+K Robert! Nice work, didn't realize high build primer could cover the 36 grit, thought you'd have to go a bit higher, at least 120 or so. Thanks for the videos, here's to 50K and more!
Thanks ! on the 36 grit I meant to metal finish, finish out the area with 80, 120, 180 before primer. I didn't realize I said the next step is primer.... good catch. Thanks
@@richcaseaxon 👍👍
great video as always. I need to close the gap on a mustang I'm working on. What type of filler rod do you recommend. Aftermarket door has 1/4" gap between fender.
1/8 '' works great, then you can grind to fit. Thanks !!
Great craftsmanship and attention to detail. Thanks for the clear explanation and great video.
@@sjfodor Yes Sir thank you for watching !
@@sjfodor your most welcome
Congrats on the 30k awesome video as always
Thank you for watching and for the support, it means a lot.
Great work Robert!
Thank you Sir !!
Really awesome work, Robert 🤙
Yeah it turned out well. Thank you Sir !!
Hi Robert, Congrats on the subscription milestone! Great work as usual. I am curious how you will deal with the rust pitting. On my project I am using Dyna-glass fiberglass filler on rust pits.
Check out a product called slick sand primer. Thanks !!
Congratulations on 30K subscribers. 🎉
Thank you Sir !
That replacement piece came out great. One suggestion. You used a lot of cutting, grinding and sanding materials. A list of those items used would be most useful. I did follow along with paper and pen so I got what was used but it does make the video a little longer. Thanks!
Great suggestion, Thanks !
Very nice. Clean work
I really appreciate your comment !!!
Amazing job as usual.
Thanks for the comment I really appreciate your support !!
Great job man! Learned some tricks! :D
Nice !! that is what my channel is all about, passing on info. Thanks !!
A master at his craft!
That's an AWESOME comment ! thanks !
Bravo ! Looks great. Thanks for sharing
Thank you Sir !!!
Tanks for a new video Nice work aign Love yours video
Thank you @ChristerJohansson-ic5be !!!
great work , thank you for this , you always do nice work and these videos really help , my rusty projects have come along way thanks to your help
I appreciate the support, it's really great to hear about your progress!
What do you do on the back side of it?
That depends on the final finish out, if it's painted or lined. Thanks !!
@@guzzifabrication3448 ok 👍
If it’s pained it would get same as this side and lf coated could stay as is correct?
@@DA-cg3du Great question, if it's painted the metal has to be dress ( ground ) flush with the surrounding metal, that is a job in it's self to not dress the metal too thin and leave enough metal in the repair... not impossible.... but very time consuming. Re-undercoating allows you to leave a little more weld and hide it with the undercoat making for a stronger repair.
👍 👍👍
Thanks !!
do you finish the back side of that panel? I know it may never be seen but just wonder what it looks like and how it is finished so it want rust.
Yes.
Quality.
@@UnconventionalMetal Thank you sir !!
I have a good question Robert..During the Metal work process and when the body is on the Frame Fixture..when the body is put back on the frame. Wouldn't the body and doors gaps move? I'm thinking the body would flex and shift..so I'm thinking of doing the same thing I would wait until the body is on fresh body mounts to do the door gaps.(metal slicing and adding coat hanger to fill in gaps)Thanks again!
@@santoscamacho3361 Depends on skill level
I like your style
👍👍
I saw on Hubbards impala parts website they sell an outer and inner wheelhouse with a (modify for convertible) in parentheses. I wonder if they have be some kind of diagram or directions for the modification.
Thanks, I'll check that out, but a coupe and a convertible wheel house are really different....
The difference being the main shape of the arch. The convertible inner wheelhouses have a large flat area on top which is tilted toward the front of the car. The purpose being to make room for the convertible top mechanism frame when it's put down into the folded position. Pause this video at 2:02 for a good look at the shape of the hardtop wheelhouse (reproduction), and then pause again at about 5:46 to see the different shape of the large flat tilted-forward area on top of the original convertible wheelhouse. As far as the modification goes, Robert has probably shown the best way to do it right here. Hopefully none of our cars are ever rusted out up high enough to need to get into that flat area!
@@wilkesjournal Thanks for the lead on parts and the info !
Hi Robert. Sincerely appreciate you taking the time to explain the hows and whys to us beginners.
I have a question regarding the original rust pits at around @17:04. For me, I would be tempted to cut out/replace the area containing the original rust pits 'to make it perfect'. But I see you left that area still there. What is your theory behind that please?
Thanks those were shallow pits that had already been media blasted. Important rule of thumb, always cut out the least amount of metal as possible or you will get into alot of problems. Thanks
Rob, I don't see the 45 degree air chisel you were going to offer for sale on your store site
www.matcotools.com/catalog/search?searchText=mc401b&facets=
what grinding wheel are you using to dress the welds before the flap disc stage?
3m green corp 3”x 3/16" x 3/8" if you can find them, they are the best...
@@guzzifabrication3448 Thanks for the info !
@@guzzifabrication3448 Hi Robert,
I had the same question so thanks a billion (cause a million just ain't enough anymore). Those suckers are pricey but I am going to order some and give them a try. Best to you and yours and happy Thanksgiving. Later Jay
@@jayhorton9747 Thanks ! Wishing you and family a great, safe holiday !
Excellent work
Thank you Sir !!
So…I’m working on this 59 Apache panel truck, right? There was nothing left of the B pillars, cab instep, hinge pocket, lower A pillar, floor, parts of the toe board, and WOW! The doors were flopping, and basically barely holding on! I had not a single reference point to start with or end with. Now? At least the door hangs solidly on the hinge, and I did a ton of cutting in/patches and stuff! What do you do in situations like this? It looks “ok” and solid, but s few things did not line up as they should. I will say this…the floor is flat now, and the transmission cover, lines up. Help!
Donor truck....
@@guzzifabrication3448 Too late now! Lol!! It’s a lot like that Mopar you’ve been working on!
@@guzzifabrication3448Yo Guzzster, here’s the deal. I totally blame you for showing me how to save old metal. Today, I cut the other side in to the point of rehanging the door. I had a few reference points, but not much. When I welded in the lower hinge pocket brace, and screwed the new instep in place, the freaking door actually shut “nearly” like it was suppose to! Too late to turn back now. I’m going to have a nice panel truck when done!
Also, I practiced the flapper wheel bit after welding. I did ok, but fairly happy with the results! Glad I’ve been watching you videos! They have been a huge help!!!
This is sort of Fitzee's Cut and Butt method of repairing panels. He always leaves the old panel in place behind the new panel/patch. I cannot explain it but check out Fitzees Fabrication. He is from New Foundland and he does some amazing work with rusted out vehicles. Nice repair. I got some info out of it so thank you.
Thanks for watching
Would a cut and butt work here as well ??
@@Frankensteinfabrications hey thanks for the comment that's what this is just another name
@@guzzifabrication3448 oh OK awsome work
@@Frankensteinfabrications Thanks !
A wheelhouse is the pilot's cabin on a steamboat. Inner and outer fender or fender tub.
I love it when people try to correct me and they don't know what they are talking about.... Classic industries.... probably the largest aftermarket parts suppliers calls this part a wheel house... oh yeah so does every other professional in this industry... I guess we are all wrong.... Maybe you should learn from the video and stop trying to fault find....
In parts catalogs they call this part a wheelhouse.🤔
@@samuelsmith2522 Correct. Thanks !
i thought that a replacement was not available but you cut up brand new one ?
Convertible wheel houses are not available, I said that in the video... this is a coupe wheel house.
If it’s a non attainable part, what was the part you got the donor piece from?
Could you not have just installed that entire piece that you cut the repair section out of?
Convertible wheel houses are not reproduced, coupe wheel houses are..... the video shows using a coupe wheel house as a donor to repair a non-available convertible wheel house...
good work but quit waste of a good new panel
Do you know how long it would take to form the piece cut off of the coupe wheel house ? ?
Bro….using what is available is the name of the game! Building a new inner wheel tub like that would be, and is cost prohibitive! I’d have done the exact same thing! Besides that, the other part can be used for other projects! Guzzy did the right thing!
@@SuperchiefApache Thanks !!
@@guzzifabrication3448 I could actually use that other piece for this 59 titanic
Why not replace the inner and outer as one
Instead of cutting it up to piece it together.
If I'm missing something please forgive me.
@@jimmyjames-ky2uu convertible wheel houses are different than hardtop wheel houses they do not reproduce a convertible the easiest repair is to use a donor hardtop wheelhouse to repair the lower section of the convertible wheelhouse.
How is That a non-obtainable part…… you had a brand new inner outer wheel well, that you used to get the donor piece? 🤷🏻♂️
Reproduction convertible wheel house are not available they are different than a coupe wheel house.... the repair uses a coupe donor.... what was your question ?
WHY NOT JUST REPLACE THE PANEL SINCE YOU HAD A NEW ONE (OBTAINABLE) THAT YOU CHOSE TO CUT UP????? CORNFUSSIDID!
The convertible wheel houses aren't available, didn't you hear him say that??? you have to use a donor coupe wheel house.... try an keep up spudly.
What are you talking about ? when you watch the video make sure the sound is on as well as your glasses.....