For your information, the vinyl is a low temp (-60F / -51C) material for snowmobile seats (that is the point it will crack) It has the following qualities:- 1000 Hours Weathermeter Adhesion resistance (ASTM D751) Abrasion Resistance (Wyzenbeek): 30000 California fire code 117 FMVSS-302 Mildew Resistant Oil Resistant Tear Resistant (191-5136) Tensile Resistance (ASTM D751) UFAC class 1 Ultraviolet stable pigments Colours available:- Black Black Anti Slip Chalk Nu Bright Yellow Bright Red Silver Metallic Royal Blue Electric Blue Marine Green Bright Violet Aztec Red We only got hold of a metre for the experiment, but we will get more and try and see if we can get a dash bottom and top out of a 1 metre X 54 inch strip Thinking of putting this on my website as a kit marked out but not cut for the Defender, and include black flange screws and black washers to finish the job (we only had large steel washer in the video) Aiming to get a kit together for less than C$100 - BUT that depends on how much we can get a roll for, (only sold commercially) so this is a wild guess It is excellent for our needs but not a big seller, hence the material is not cheap
Your advice was spot on. I purchased the same glue, brushed it on, made my own vacuum bag with a 6hp shop vac and used a glue gun around the screw cut outs. Thank you for sharing your experience and allowing me to get it spot on, first time around
Mike, Have to say, since recently purchasing a 2005 110 commercial vehicle i have been an avid watcher of your channel. You have given me the confidence that there are jobs that both my son and i can tackle together (even though i am not a DIY enthusiast. Please keep making the videos as they are both educational and wonderful entertainment. We are about to commence the front door panels and the visors with t 4 way vinyl that has a small weeve on it so looking forward to get started. We will send you a postcard once all is done . Again wonderful channel. Dave and Jamie Dundon
Thanks Dave and thank you very much for your donation! Much appreciated! Re covering the sun visors is a task I have not taken on yet = I have spoken to Jim about them and he said the could be done, but would need stitching and making like a pillowcase - quite tricky I may be tempted to have a go at re covering the door panels using the vac bag, BUT I need to get my mits on some of that Weldwood industrial contact adhesive as it flashed off very quickly, so there are no issues with tight corners etc Mike
Looks like brand new! Nice to see the mud panel installed. Did one myself. Also painted the gray back panel covering the vent pipes black giving the whole dash a much better look!
Yes it can - I have done a recent video but the 4 way vinyl is thin and can show defects if you damage the foam when removing the old vinyl - so in some cases I try to use the old vinyl where possible
@@BritannicaRestorations My dash has a few pin pricks in but second hand dashes for my car is cheap.. The vinyl on my door card has bubbled so may try and reglue it. What's the best way of removing vinyl from plastic without damagaing it?
I recovered a dash in vinyl, it looked fantastic. The only problem was, every time it was left in the sun the glue would leave a greasy, hazy residue on the windscreen. This continued for over 3 years until I swapped it out for another dash. Very annoying..
I think we had an issue with the corners where the screws go in as there were too many small tight bends - it formed great, but the glue was not good enough and we then ended up putting glue on glue Hot glue worked fine
I was crossing my fingers you hadn't melted the plastic wrap to the vinyl with the hot air gun! And it sounded (@35:50) like the Feds were rolling up! ;) Great vid as always, make it look so straightforward! Both of the corners have rusted through on my panels which is a bit annoying as it's going to be a bugger to curve a new piece around to fill it. Would you just use the spray foam instead and shave it to fit?
You could use fibreglass matting as a backer and use tape as a temp form for the fibreglass to mould to - there is no need for high strength as it is just a box bit messy but solid Spray foam is good for cavities, BUT I would not put vinyl onto spray foam as it gets sucked into the bubbles and looks bad (found that out on Mk1 dash top!) hence a light skim of filler
@@BritannicaRestorations hmm never tried fibreglass, I'll have a look into it! Thanks for the tip! (now the gearbox has gone for the 3rd time it'll be the next but one job...)
This is the stuff www.ebay.com/itm/Dap-Weldwood-Contact-Adhesive-Landau-Top-and-Trim-HHR-Solvent-Type-Spray-Grade/173486873254?hash=item28649f9aa6:g:~AoAAOSwh81bfJCz
Great vid guys. Fantastic end result.I have to do exactly the same thing to my own hicap project Mike, so I'd be very interested in where to source this, from the UK. Mike (UK).
I was chatting to Jim yesterday and as far as he knows, it can only be found here as there is no need for low temp vinyl in the UK It is not cheap BUT we think that with 1 metre you can cover the top dash and the bottom for less than C$100 in vinyl As a bottom dash here is C$3000 new (no used LHD in the country) then it is our only option I don't know what this is vinyl is called, Jim is a freelance upholsterer, and found it at one of the places he works at - we know it is for the snowmobile seats
For your information, the vinyl is a low temp (-60F / -51C) material for snowmobile seats (that is the point it will crack)
It has the following qualities:-
1000 Hours Weathermeter Adhesion resistance (ASTM D751)
Abrasion Resistance (Wyzenbeek): 30000
California fire code 117
FMVSS-302
Mildew Resistant
Oil Resistant
Tear Resistant (191-5136)
Tensile Resistance (ASTM D751)
UFAC class 1
Ultraviolet stable pigments
Colours available:-
Black
Black Anti Slip
Chalk
Nu Bright Yellow
Bright Red
Silver Metallic
Royal Blue
Electric Blue
Marine Green
Bright Violet
Aztec Red
We only got hold of a metre for the experiment, but we will get more and try and see if we can get a dash bottom and top out of a 1 metre X 54 inch strip
Thinking of putting this on my website as a kit marked out but not cut for the Defender, and include black flange screws and black washers to finish the job (we only had large steel washer in the video)
Aiming to get a kit together for less than C$100 - BUT that depends on how much we can get a roll for, (only sold commercially) so this is a wild guess
It is excellent for our needs but not a big seller, hence the material is not cheap
Any luck on this?. Struggling to find something similar locally or at all!
Your advice was spot on. I purchased the same glue, brushed it on, made my own vacuum bag with a 6hp shop vac and used a glue gun around the screw cut outs. Thank you for sharing your experience and allowing me to get it spot on, first time around
Excellent news! Having the right materials helps!
The clamps I have in my shop really help when clamping the screw cut outs
Mike,
Have to say, since recently purchasing a 2005 110 commercial vehicle i have been an avid watcher of your channel. You have given me the confidence that there are jobs that both my son and i can tackle together (even though i am not a DIY enthusiast. Please keep making the videos as they are both educational and wonderful entertainment. We are about to commence the front door panels and the visors with t 4 way vinyl that has a small weeve on it so looking forward to get started.
We will send you a postcard once all is done .
Again wonderful channel.
Dave and Jamie Dundon
Thanks Dave and thank you very much for your donation! Much appreciated!
Re covering the sun visors is a task I have not taken on yet = I have spoken to Jim about them and he said the could be done, but would need stitching and making like a pillowcase - quite tricky
I may be tempted to have a go at re covering the door panels using the vac bag, BUT I need to get my mits on some of that Weldwood industrial contact adhesive as it flashed off very quickly, so there are no issues with tight corners etc
Mike
Looks like brand new!
Nice to see the mud panel installed. Did one myself. Also painted the gray back panel covering the vent pipes black giving the whole dash a much better look!
the grey panel for a LHD is obsolete now and very hard to find used
Mike
Hi Mike grate video. Fantastic end result.Thanks for the update and sharing this video. 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Glad you liked it!
Nice work, do you have a link to the glue you used in the sprayer. thank you from down under.
www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000172145/
Can't the original vinyl be seperated from the the foam with a heatgun?
Yes it can - I have done a recent video but the 4 way vinyl is thin and can show defects if you damage the foam when removing the old vinyl - so in some cases I try to use the old vinyl where possible
@@BritannicaRestorations My dash has a few pin pricks in but second hand dashes for my car is cheap.. The vinyl on my door card has bubbled so may try and reglue it. What's the best way of removing vinyl from plastic without damagaing it?
I recovered a dash in vinyl, it looked fantastic. The only problem was, every time it was left in the sun the glue would leave a greasy, hazy residue on the windscreen. This continued for over 3 years until I swapped it out for another dash. Very annoying..
Nice work Mike, looks great
when you have the proper materials, you can do a proper job!
Mike
I think we had an issue with the corners where the screws go in as there were too many small tight bends - it formed great, but the glue was not good enough and we then ended up putting glue on glue
Hot glue worked fine
How did you get Johnathan Ross to help you?
I was crossing my fingers you hadn't melted the plastic wrap to the vinyl with the hot air gun! And it sounded (@35:50) like the Feds were rolling up! ;) Great vid as always, make it look so straightforward! Both of the corners have rusted through on my panels which is a bit annoying as it's going to be a bugger to curve a new piece around to fill it. Would you just use the spray foam instead and shave it to fit?
You could use fibreglass matting as a backer and use tape as a temp form for the fibreglass to mould to - there is no need for high strength as it is just a box bit messy but solid
Spray foam is good for cavities, BUT I would not put vinyl onto spray foam as it gets sucked into the bubbles and looks bad (found that out on Mk1 dash top!) hence a light skim of filler
@@BritannicaRestorations hmm never tried fibreglass, I'll have a look into it! Thanks for the tip! (now the gearbox has gone for the 3rd time it'll be the next but one job...)
There are lots of videos on fibreglass on YT - not bad to do - but wear gloves! Messy!
Let us spray! Brilliant job lads!
Amen to that!
Was the glue just regular Heavy Duty LePage Contact Cement? Sorry if I missed in earlier video as still trying to get caught up.
This is the stuff
www.ebay.com/itm/Dap-Weldwood-Contact-Adhesive-Landau-Top-and-Trim-HHR-Solvent-Type-Spray-Grade/173486873254?hash=item28649f9aa6:g:~AoAAOSwh81bfJCz
Great vid guys. Fantastic end result.I have to do exactly the same thing to my own hicap project Mike, so I'd be very interested in where to source this, from the UK. Mike (UK).
I was chatting to Jim yesterday and as far as he knows, it can only be found here as there is no need for low temp vinyl in the UK
It is not cheap BUT we think that with 1 metre you can cover the top dash and the bottom for less than C$100 in vinyl
As a bottom dash here is C$3000 new (no used LHD in the country) then it is our only option
I don't know what this is vinyl is called, Jim is a freelance upholsterer, and found it at one of the places he works at - we know it is for the snowmobile seats
Grand job Mike! Can you let us know what brand/type vinyl you used?
I just pinned a comment!
But I 'think' it is only available commercially in Canada
mice job.. that looks better than factory... BTW isn't a 200km/hr speedo a bit optimistic ??
I live in hope - this vehicle has hidden power - but I am still looking for it!
Allot of faffing about Jesus. Like a married couple you two. Otherwise great video.