a guy in audioholics audio-forum asked about this test to Arendal, that said that this measurement it's a bit "tricky" because the 1723 2v's speakers are positioned on the sides of cabinet while SVS have both the speaker and reflex-pipes on the front baffle
yes and no, same techincal design (underuhung motor, "giant" voice coil) but SVS is a full customized 16".... the Peerless that a diyers can normally buy it's 13"....
Clear and precise report. Thanks for that. The word you're looking for to describe the infra-sonics might be tactile. Sound you can feel! And yes bung is a real word, lol. It's what the old wine and whiskey makers used to seal off the wood barrels after filling them with yummy goodness! Have a great day and I look forward to your next video.
Welcome back. I've been waiting for this review from you. Both of those subs were on my wishlist, but I needed someone to do a head-to-head comparison. This was a very well-done review. I'm now leaning towards getting a JTR Captivator instead. I want those infrasonic frequencies, but I can't stand the chuffing that comes with ported subs. Thank you again for the review. I'm looking forward to you getting your hands on a JTR and hearing your thoughts on it.
have had success just plugging with foam. as little of it as possible is often ideal(sometimes also low density foam) in a box designed as bass reflex. no chuffing and the back pressure will usually result in more control and a snappier cone movement. for me higher quality sound especially for music, but less potential bass volume
Good to see you back MDT! What is your opinion re. the Apps to adjust them and is there any significant difference between functionality or maybe more practical settings, etc? Great comparison section, lol!
Hey Mike - thanks alot and glad you enjoyed the comparison section. Every time I use the SVS app it works perfectly - never had any cut outs or anything like that. At time of review, the Arendal app was in beta so was unable to test it properly. I used the iQ controller at the back of the subwoofer but I would still rather control it via an app (lazy me)
Perhaps dual opposing drivers gives problems in some rooms. Sounds like you experienced a null in that room. One could experiment drivers to sides or one drive towards listener and other one towards wall. Dual 13.8 " is bigger total that this 15-16" driver from SVS. Of course the excursion also counts for something. Heard that the extended mode can give some port noise. I would def. not strike Arendal from the list. From meassurements the Arendals dig way deeper than the SVS. Youthman meassured Arendals to 10hz (though sealed mode) his pb 16 ultras never did that.
Your correct, something isn't right with the duel opposed driver configuration, I have the sub 2s and I really miss the arendal sub 1.5.. the single drivers hit much harder and deeper.
Considered the SVS, but in my eyes it looks really cheap and toy-like (the cabinet that is; the driver looks nice). I'm sure it performs superbly though. I went with the Arendal 1723 2V. Still not a particularly handsome sub, but it complements my B&W setup much better.
It isn't about 1 being better then the other at anything. It's which you prefer for what you're using it for. Ported subs can and are still great for music and sead subs can and are great for movies. For me, the PB16 is way better then the SB16 for movies, but for music I wouldn't care if I had either. However, because I'd be buying for movie watching like 95-98% of the time I'd actually just prefer using the PB16 for music.
You who have tried the XTZ 12.17 edge subwoofer, and many others since, what is your view on that subwoofer today? I'm using two XTZ 10.17 Edge (yes, the 10 inch version) and I'm curious about what the potential benefits would be to go up in size / quality. I'm mostly watching TV and movies, but I'm not listening any way near reference levels. And I don't have room much bigger subs, so I'm thinking 12 inch or dual 10 inch (x2, one in each corner). The easy upgrade would be to go up in size to the 10.17. The very expensive upgrade would be something like the B&W DB2D. What are your thoughts?
You can't really go wrong with the xtz 12.17 edge. If you don't listen near reference levels then i guess it doesn't really matter which way you go. I wouldn't be investing into something like B&W DB2D if you're not planning on turning it up. I'd advise that you get some test movies with deep bass (sub 35hz) scenes and test a couple subs of different sizes. You will then appreciate the difference you can hear and feel. At that point, try and assess what it is you want. For me, it's hard to beat dual XTZ 12.17 or SVS SB3000 if you want a sealed sub alternative. There is also the XTZ Cinema Edge which is even more geared towards TV and movies. Hope this helps
@@geezerintotech Thanks a lot! What I like about the XTZ subs is that they are significantly smaller than other ported subs. I simply can't have big subs in my living room.
Hi MDT - great video. I have a pair of R900s and a BK Monolith+. That’s a coincidence eh? You may be the only one who can answer my question: How do both these subs compare to the Monolith+? Is there a huge difference in terms of output and depth? Would you upgrade to one of these? Thanks!
Hi Carl. Yes, there is a massive difference to my ears between this and something like a Mono+. I used to have two Mono+ and that's still not on par with a single SVS PB16 ultra. Mono+ is much better for the money, but that PB16 is just ridiculous. The quality of the bass seems better with the PB16 also - the transient response seems better in particular but I haven't measured (so you just have to take my word for it!). The Arendal is a similar story but I think I'd prefer two Monos partnered to the r900 to be honest (for my needs anyway).
1508 wouldn't stand a chance against these two (especially the SVS). The SVS will have miles more headroom and has very useable response below 25hz. The predator is good for people who like the idea of a sealed subwoofer. However, the 1508 (being a sealed sub) might have one or two strengths versus the SVS
I have 2 Rel 1508 .Bass is clean ,fast and tight. It will give you a taste of the ifrasonic bass which I prefer. I like a clean bass rather subs that makes things rattles . Plus for me it is a easier to integrate with my hometheater set up.
1 sub, no matter how big and/or powerful can give every seat good bass, or even give your main seat the full spectrim. 1 sub will give you what I like to call swiss cheese bass, where the holes in swiss cheese is the nul's in the base and the cheese is both your good base and peaks. Peaks you can deal with, just need to turn down the levels at that frequency, nuls on the other hand, you can turn the level up to 11 on those frequencies and not only will the nul still be a null but you'lo also make the peaks worse, more times then not. This is where a second sub comes in, you may not still get your bass 100% there with a second sub, but you're gonna go from 40% - 60% with the 1 sub to usually 95% of the way there. Sure, you can add even more subs and you'll get even better bass, but it's like 1 sub 40-60%, 2 subs 95%, 4 subs 98%. If you think adding another 2 more for only 3% when you get 35-55% by adding just the 1 extra is worth it to you then go aheadl to me just going duals is perfect. Almost forgot to say, what adding the 2nd sub does is this; Each sub by itself has peaks and has nuls, which actually comes from your room itself and not the sub, so that's why depending where you put the sub in your room, your peaks and nuls will be at different frequencies and that is how you get the 2 subs to get that great bass. You wanna try putting your subs places in your room where 1 sub peaks the second sub will have nuls and where the one sub has nuls the second sub peaks. Also when I say peaks, it can also just be perfect levels, don't matter. So then in the end, 1 sub will fill the nuls of the other and you bring down the peaks in your lever setting. Aftervall said and done, you should now have damn near perfect bass. Some rooms will suck and the best you will probably get with duals is 90% there, but that's still much better then still only having 1 sub. Those rooms benefit more with 4 subs, so where you'd have a pair of those SVS PB16 Utras, in rooms like that you'd actually benefit more splitting your budget and get like 4 PB-2000 Pros or adding just a little more to the budget and get 4 PB-3000's. The 3000's have I find, the same sound signature of the PB16 Ultras. So for the same amount of money or a little more, you can go from 90% there, back to 95% to about 98% there. OK, I rambled enough. lol
@@geezerintotech I had mine since 2018 and it’s been the best 10 inch subwoofer I have ever spent money on. And it goes pretty low for a ten inch and it’s also fast and stops on a dime
You just can’t get everything from one sub . The SVS is so distorted with music . I only liked it for action movies . The other is a little better for movies . The farting on the SVS is terrible the plugs just don’t solve the problems . For action films I don’t mind it but it ruins music for me . Arendal makes great speakers I have a pair I occasionally break out . KEF makes great speakers I have two similar KEFs the R11 and Q11 . The Qs are so good for the money they are a bargain .
Arendal are a shitty company who promote free shipping on their website but when you dont live in USA or EU they increase the price by around 30% and then make you pay additional hundreds of dollars for shipping and customs duties. Plus they keep increasing the prices over the last few years. In my country the Arendal 1723 2s costs $3,070 and the svs sb16-ultra costs $2,500 before discount with local warranty and support.
SVS or Arendal?
Comment below
When it comes to money Monolith
The arendal is pb3k/pb 4k level
Really enjoyed your review. You are in a class of your own compared to other reviewers. Well done.
Glad you enjoyed it Paul :) - Thanks so much for your support
a guy in audioholics audio-forum asked about this test to Arendal, that said that this measurement it's a bit "tricky" because the 1723 2v's speakers are positioned on the sides of cabinet while SVS have both the speaker and reflex-pipes on the front baffle
The SVS driver is based on the Peerless STW-350F. They have modified it for the sealed and ported subwoofer, though.
yes and no, same techincal design (underuhung motor, "giant" voice coil) but SVS is a full customized 16".... the Peerless that a diyers can normally buy it's 13"....
i've definitely seen a 15 inch peerless woofer that DIYers can use. i know because i was considering making one myself
Missed you bro! Great return! Loved the comparisons to the steaks and bodybuilders!!
Clear and precise report. Thanks for that. The word you're looking for to describe the infra-sonics might be tactile. Sound you can feel! And yes bung is a real word, lol. It's what the old wine and whiskey makers used to seal off the wood barrels after filling them with yummy goodness! Have a great day and I look forward to your next video.
thanks mate - appreciate it :)
Welcome back. I've been waiting for this review from you. Both of those subs were on my wishlist, but I needed someone to do a head-to-head comparison. This was a very well-done review. I'm now leaning towards getting a JTR Captivator instead. I want those infrasonic frequencies, but I can't stand the chuffing that comes with ported subs. Thank you again for the review. I'm looking forward to you getting your hands on a JTR and hearing your thoughts on it.
cheers for the support - good luck with the JTR if you get one!
have had success just plugging with foam. as little of it as possible is often ideal(sometimes also low density foam) in a box designed as bass reflex. no chuffing and the back pressure will usually result in more control and a snappier cone movement. for me higher quality sound especially for music, but less potential bass volume
Good to see you back MDT!
What is your opinion re. the Apps to adjust them and is there any significant difference between functionality or maybe more practical settings, etc?
Great comparison section, lol!
Hey Mike - thanks alot and glad you enjoyed the comparison section.
Every time I use the SVS app it works perfectly - never had any cut outs or anything like that. At time of review, the Arendal app was in beta so was unable to test it properly. I used the iQ controller at the back of the subwoofer but I would still rather control it via an app (lazy me)
I have a svs sb 16 ultra for about 3 years ago. So arendal 1723 for me next time then.
Perhaps dual opposing drivers gives problems in some rooms. Sounds like you experienced a null in that room. One could experiment drivers to sides or one drive towards listener and other one towards wall. Dual 13.8 " is bigger total that this 15-16" driver from SVS. Of course the excursion also counts for something. Heard that the extended mode can give some port noise. I would def. not strike Arendal from the list. From meassurements the Arendals dig way deeper than the SVS. Youthman meassured Arendals to 10hz (though sealed mode) his pb 16 ultras never did that.
Your correct, something isn't right with the duel opposed driver configuration, I have the sub 2s and I really miss the arendal sub 1.5.. the single drivers hit much harder and deeper.
Very happy with my cheaper 1V model :-) Fills my livingroom with nice quality bass!
Considered the SVS, but in my eyes it looks really cheap and toy-like (the cabinet that is; the driver looks nice). I'm sure it performs superbly though. I went with the Arendal 1723 2V. Still not a particularly handsome sub, but it complements my B&W setup much better.
2 × 13,8 inch drivers is equal to a 21 inch driver then.
I am getting the Hulk. Thor can take a hike. Really enjoyed. Liked subbed
Hi mate , thank you for the videos . What are your views on the BK subwoofer , like the double gem or the Gemini 2 .
depends on the application - i like the monolith and the platinum models
SVS PB16 vs SB16. How much better is the PB for movies? How much better SB for music?
It isn't about 1 being better then the other at anything. It's which you prefer for what you're using it for. Ported subs can and are still great for music and sead subs can and are great for movies. For me, the PB16 is way better then the SB16 for movies, but for music I wouldn't care if I had either. However, because I'd be buying for movie watching like 95-98% of the time I'd actually just prefer using the PB16 for music.
Great Job•••••••>You answered all my questions to Enlighten the purchase i need in my great room! Thank You Sir!
You who have tried the XTZ 12.17 edge subwoofer, and many others since, what is your view on that subwoofer today? I'm using two XTZ 10.17 Edge (yes, the 10 inch version) and I'm curious about what the potential benefits would be to go up in size / quality. I'm mostly watching TV and movies, but I'm not listening any way near reference levels. And I don't have room much bigger subs, so I'm thinking 12 inch or dual 10 inch (x2, one in each corner). The easy upgrade would be to go up in size to the 10.17. The very expensive upgrade would be something like the B&W DB2D. What are your thoughts?
You can't really go wrong with the xtz 12.17 edge. If you don't listen near reference levels then i guess it doesn't really matter which way you go. I wouldn't be investing into something like B&W DB2D if you're not planning on turning it up.
I'd advise that you get some test movies with deep bass (sub 35hz) scenes and test a couple subs of different sizes. You will then appreciate the difference you can hear and feel. At that point, try and assess what it is you want.
For me, it's hard to beat dual XTZ 12.17 or SVS SB3000 if you want a sealed sub alternative.
There is also the XTZ Cinema Edge which is even more geared towards TV and movies.
Hope this helps
@@geezerintotech Thanks a lot! What I like about the XTZ subs is that they are significantly smaller than other ported subs. I simply can't have big subs in my living room.
3:18 This could had most likely been fixed with the phase switch on the subwoofer panel
Hi MDT - great video.
I have a pair of R900s and a BK Monolith+. That’s a coincidence eh?
You may be the only one who can answer my question:
How do both these subs compare to the Monolith+?
Is there a huge difference in terms of output and depth? Would you upgrade to one of these?
Thanks!
Hi Carl. Yes, there is a massive difference to my ears between this and something like a Mono+. I used to have two Mono+ and that's still not on par with a single SVS PB16 ultra. Mono+ is much better for the money, but that PB16 is just ridiculous. The quality of the bass seems better with the PB16 also - the transient response seems better in particular but I haven't measured (so you just have to take my word for it!).
The Arendal is a similar story but I think I'd prefer two Monos partnered to the r900 to be honest (for my needs anyway).
Test the arendal sealed 1723 subs then
How does the 1508 predator from Rel compare? Anyone know :) great vid
1508 wouldn't stand a chance against these two (especially the SVS). The SVS will have miles more headroom and has very useable response below 25hz. The predator is good for people who like the idea of a sealed subwoofer.
However, the 1508 (being a sealed sub) might have one or two strengths versus the SVS
I have 2 Rel 1508 .Bass is clean ,fast and tight. It will give you a taste of the ifrasonic bass which I prefer. I like a clean bass rather subs that makes things rattles . Plus for me it is a easier to integrate with my hometheater set up.
Do you still have the SVS …..if yes can 1 fill up a normal size room?
1 sub, no matter how big and/or powerful can give every seat good bass, or even give your main seat the full spectrim. 1 sub will give you what I like to call swiss cheese bass, where the holes in swiss cheese is the nul's in the base and the cheese is both your good base and peaks. Peaks you can deal with, just need to turn down the levels at that frequency, nuls on the other hand, you can turn the level up to 11 on those frequencies and not only will the nul still be a null but you'lo also make the peaks worse, more times then not. This is where a second sub comes in, you may not still get your bass 100% there with a second sub, but you're gonna go from 40% - 60% with the 1 sub to usually 95% of the way there. Sure, you can add even more subs and you'll get even better bass, but it's like 1 sub 40-60%, 2 subs 95%, 4 subs 98%. If you think adding another 2 more for only 3% when you get 35-55% by adding just the 1 extra is worth it to you then go aheadl to me just going duals is perfect. Almost forgot to say, what adding the 2nd sub does is this; Each sub by itself has peaks and has nuls, which actually comes from your room itself and not the sub, so that's why depending where you put the sub in your room, your peaks and nuls will be at different frequencies and that is how you get the 2 subs to get that great bass. You wanna try putting your subs places in your room where 1 sub peaks the second sub will have nuls and where the one sub has nuls the second sub peaks. Also when I say peaks, it can also just be perfect levels, don't matter. So then in the end, 1 sub will fill the nuls of the other and you bring down the peaks in your lever setting. Aftervall said and done, you should now have damn near perfect bass. Some rooms will suck and the best you will probably get with duals is 90% there, but that's still much better then still only having 1 sub. Those rooms benefit more with 4 subs, so where you'd have a pair of those SVS PB16 Utras, in rooms like that you'd actually benefit more splitting your budget and get like 4 PB-2000 Pros or adding just a little more to the budget and get 4 PB-3000's. The 3000's have I find, the same sound signature of the PB16 Ultras. So for the same amount of money or a little more, you can go from 90% there, back to 95% to about 98% there. OK, I rambled enough. lol
Could you test out the s series from rel? Also new kef reference metas series?
The Arendal really should have been compared to the SVS (PB)4000 series.
Those are more on par in price and power output.
Arendal subs have won several battles against svs on magazines and from reviews on TH-cam then
Would be nice to make a comparison video with demos if you have the time!
I'll take it on board and see if I can produce any more videos with the footage I've got
I would be curious about your view on Rythmik subs😊
they're one of the best made but unfortunately they're hard to access in this part of the globe
You should have a look at the klipsch r100sw definitely one of my favourite subwoofers especially for a 10 inch
Noted!
@@geezerintotech I had mine since 2018 and it’s been the best 10 inch subwoofer I have ever spent money on. And it goes pretty low for a ten inch and it’s also fast and stops on a dime
But how about the price. You should really test 2x 1723 2v vs one pb16. 2 Arendal subs are 5000$ shipped while one Svs pb16 is 4300$ shipped.
To bad the price i so high, the Arendal is 3000$ where im from.
Where do you live? I'm in the US, and one PB16 is $2800, and one 1723 2V is $3100 making 1v1 a pretty good comparison.
You just can’t get everything from one sub . The SVS is so distorted with music . I only liked it for action movies . The other is a little better for movies . The farting on the SVS is terrible the plugs just don’t solve the problems . For action films I don’t mind it but it ruins music for me . Arendal makes great speakers I have a pair I occasionally break out . KEF makes great speakers I have two similar KEFs the R11 and Q11 . The Qs are so good for the money they are a bargain .
I thought about these subs but went with monolith 16 instead, it wipes the floor with both these pretenders!!!
No it didn't
Where have you been? Missed you mate 🙂
i went walkabout in the outback
Also, loving the room setup! What instrument you going to get next? Looks like you got space for one more on your wall.
“All your hearing is the chuffing”
SVS or Arendal?
Hmmmm.
I choose Magico Titan 15.
It's way superior.
Arendal are a shitty company who promote free shipping on their website but when you dont live in USA or EU they increase the price by around 30% and then make you pay additional hundreds of dollars for shipping and customs duties. Plus they keep increasing the prices over the last few years. In my country the Arendal 1723 2s costs $3,070 and the svs sb16-ultra costs $2,500 before discount with local warranty and support.
boohoo
@@timbrax Sorry I dont speak troll
no, but you do speak Moron... did you think shipping across the world is FREE 😂