Just a FYI Recently many 3rd gen guys who installed the 4th gen Booster+Master have had issues with brake calipers dragging. Some have fixed this by adding small washers behind the master cyl to remove any pin preload. be diligent about parts
they also make a nice tool. $40 that you can make both bubble and inverted flare. even come's with the lube for the line. I used it to make both lines SAE and metric for my 92 Camaro. when installing My line lock..Titan 51535 on amizon $59 now. when doing the 3/16 line. for brakes or NOS. that tool rocks..makes the job easy!
JUST to clarify, the 4th gen Master Cly is really only needed if you have aftermarket brakes. it will work with stock brakes, but will have a bit of pedal take up compared to stock. Also, 4th gen Brake master cylinder is best paired with the 4th gen booster. the 3rd gen booster will have a little bit of a dead pedal at the very top of the travel since the 3rd gen booster pin is slightly shorter than the 4th gen one. the 4th gen booster is more firm and has almost No take up.
@@3rdGenGuy Appreciate it, when I did a 97 4th gen rear-end swap (to get limited slip, disc brakes, and lower geared posi) my red brake light on the dash came on, I assume due to the "new" pressure variance. Even though frankly, the brakes now feel and stop far better. LOL Thanks, enjoy your presentations.
Do you have a problem with a bit of "free travel" between the master cylinder and the brake booster? I've read on various threads that you shouldn't install the 4th Gen master to the 3rd Gen booster.
I measured the 3rd gen Master Cly and the 4th gen one and the dimensions at the base are identical the only difference is the 3rd gen master cly bore is larger. the first 1/2-3/4 in of pedal travel is light braking and the rest is a nice feeling solid pedal for hard stops. i'll see if i have any issues later on, but I've done some 90mph hard stops without a hitch
Man I just ordered all the parts and got them but didn’t see the Edelman 262015 fitting. I’m having a hard time finding that. Any other fittings known to work or where to find them?
the Edelman 262015 fitting is a rare one. i found it on some random parts website. don't remember what place. looks like Summit racing has them, but on back order.
I’m a big fan of all your videos and thank you for explaining everything on your projects so clearly. I need some advice I recently did the LS1 brake upgrade to my 90 Iroc. Brakes look great but my brake pedal feel is super soft for the first portion of brake pedal travel that was not there prior to my swap. What ideal MC/Booster/ proporting valve do you think would help get a quicker and firmer pedal feel. Thanks again.
4th gen master+Booster go to a parts store and order a 98-02 Camaro SS booster and master. you can use the stock prop valve if you want to save money. i have videos installing both
3rd Gen Guy - I ended up getting the 4th Gen Master cylinder/Booster along with the Wilwood proportioning valve and everything you listed on your video and the soft pedal issue has been resolved. Thanks a ton !!!! I have not yet adjusted my proportioning valve but even then the difference is drastically much better.
Awesome information! I upgraded to 98-02 REAR brakes on my 82 camaro but the fronts are still stock 3rd gen brakes.. it still has the 3rd gen master cylinder and booster, I plan on installing a 4th gen master cylinder AND booster soon as i understand the 4th gens are better. Is it ok to upgrade the rear brake calipers (98-02 style) and not the fronts? Also, can i use the stock 3rd gen proportioning valve with the 4th gen master and booster?
7:23 - don't you mean the fronts should lock-up just before the rears? Having the fronts lock first would produce understeer whilst the rears before the fronts would produce oversteer - braking in a straight line, I would have thought, in order to keep the car going in a straight line, you'd want to avoid anything which produces oversteer in case anything introduces a difference in resistance on one side of tyres vs the other side.
Hi, Great video! You stated in your video: “This is a necessary upgrade if you already installed aftermarket brakes on your car. The factory system uses a dual bore master cylinder that doesn’t work well with new brakes” Could you explain a bit more? I have converted from 4 oem discs system to Wilwood #140-7149 for rear and #140-11275 for front. Basically 4 pistons system with 12.19” crossed drilled and slotted discs. I used braided flexible lines on 4 wheels but kept all original hard brake lines, master and prop valve. Feels 200% better than stock and it stops real hard with no major lock-up. It's street use, not racing or autocross. Am I missing something? I am curious to figure out what is not “working well”. Thanks Simon
@@3rdGenGuy Thanks for reply, Makes sense. So would it reduce pressure initially because of the design of the take up valve meant to work with low drag calipers? Less pressure initially but more volume. I'm still trying to figure out how it won't "work well". Because if there is room for improvement I am willing to swap my OE master. I'm curious by nature!
the switch is for cars with a safety brake pressure switch or brake lights. neither is used for a 3rd gen. I removed mine and used a 1/8 NPT plug in it.
Great video. I've got everything installed and plumbed except my rear 6mm brake line there's just much extra brake line up front by the wildwood valve. I need to cut and shorten the rear line. Any ideas I might just have to re run the rear brakes like completely since I can find a 6mm bubble flare tool?
you can bend it in a circle like stock to remove slack. you can re-run the rear line in a standard 1/4in brake line. although running a new 1/4 line would be a lot of work overall.
Question, the power brake booster filter, that black canister inline with the booster, can that be installed backwards? Is there only one way to install it?
I also have a '92 RS where I am doing an LS swap & I put in a 4th gen (disc brake) rear. Any modifications required for that braking system? Thx again!
3rd gen master is a dual bore design made for GM's "LOW DRAG" calipers they are by design squishy and vague pedal feel wise. the 4th gen master is a cheap upgrade and Bolts right up to any 88-92 car without any flaring (if you keep the stock prop valve) the 4th gen master doesn't play well with the stock front brakes so only do the swap if you upgrade the brakes.
@@3rdGenGuy I have C4 13" HD brakes on the front. I was planning to gut the prop valve, but i really like that Wilwood unit. My rears are still delco Moraine, i have an LS1 setup i have to figure out how to mount on a 9 bolt. Would i see an improvement with the 4th gen master?
Hey man wicked video, helped me alot with getting my will wood prop installed. Parts numbers really helped. After the install whats your pedal feel like? I've got 4th gen master and willwood valve plus 4th gen brakes on all corners. My brakes lock up but it takes a decent amount of pedal travel. It doesn't go to the floor but the first inch of travel doesn't really bite. Feels spongier than I think it should. I've checked every flare, banjo and bleed nothing leaks and like I said I bled it a rediculous amount. Still end up with the same feeling. With the car off its rock freaken hard.
takes a while to bleed brakes on a 3rd gen. i always recommend bleeding brakes 3 times over a 2-3 week period. if that doesn't help, try a more aggressive Pad compound.
@@3rdGenGuy good to know lol I on the verge of losing my mind chasing this soft pedal. Thought it was just me. Its drivable right now so I'll do like you say bleed it in a week or so a couple of times. I might do some spirited driving maybe that will help force the air closer to the bleeders. I definitely need some etc yellow stuff.
87 Camaro. I'm running wilwood 4 piston calipers up front stock drum rear. Putting together this setup you have here. Couple questions. The stock single wire that went to stock proportion valve is not used when using the wildwood adj prop valve ? Also I don't need to hook up the two prong switch on the wilwood valve as my brakes should still operate by the switch on the pedal, Right ?
honestly, i have NO idea what that single wire is even for. i didn't replace it and nothing happened. NO check engine lights. with old cars like ours we don't need to mess with the wring.
@@3rdGenGuy I researched it. Its connected to you brake light circuit. So if you were to lose a big drop in brake pressure due to a leak it turns on your brake light in the dash to let you know. It can be just left unhooked.
Hi i have 3 gen GTA With disc brakes on front and rear. I think those are not stuck but something better (not brembo but something else) would change stock master cylinder help me get better brakes?
the new master is really a companion upgrade to better brakes. The best low cost option is getting a set of Hawks HPS pads. they are leaps and bounds better than stock pads.
I am running a Willwood Master Cylinder with a Willwood prop valve. I am using the third-gen booster. The brakes were all upgraded to GEN 5 Brembos front and rear through BigBrake Upgrade. The pedal feel is very vague and the travel is really long. Will the 4th gen booster help with these problems? Any suggestions?
@@3rdGenGuy Just finished the 4th Gen Booster swap. Fixed everything. The pedal feels much more like a modern car. Pedal travel has been reduced a lot. Great information on your video. Thanks.
Okay I have an 88 Iroc Z. I just swapped the rear drums to discs from a 93 Z28 Lt1. There is a lot of bias still. I’m guessing I need a new prop valve. Will I need to flare the lines to fit the stock Master Cylinder if I use the Wilwood you used in the video?
Back again…lol. I just finished front ls1 brake conversion. I ran it for a about a week and the brakes obviously still felt kinda mushy so I ahead and installed an ls1 master cylinder and brake booster. I haven’t installs the adjustable prop valve. I have it with the spring mod. Which seemed like it kinda works. The brake pedal feels great. Almost too great. Almost No pedal travel. However, I noticed that the front brakes/calipers are not releasing all the way maybe about 90-95 percent. They feel slightly engaged. Do you have any idea why this might be?? I didn’t replace my brake hoses. But I do know that i I didn’t have that before the MC and booster swap.
@@3rdGenGuy I am pretty sure it is the gauge, it was stuck at 1/2 tank and the needles on the temp and oil pressure gauges weren't accurate, so I took out the motors and applied 12 volts to the pins that get power to send them to zero and put the needles back on to "zero" them, and now the gas gauge doesn't move at all, just at zero. I tried to find new motors, but I couldn't find a source.
After converting rear brakes from drum to disc ('92 Z28), is a (different) proportioning valve required? Brakes bled, yet pedal still goes almost to the floor for full stop (as if air was in the lines)...any improvement recommendations?
A prop valve is needed to get the full use from the new rear disks. but the stock prop valve will still work. as far as bleeding, the rears are hard due to the long distance. I bleed the brakes like 4-5 times before i got the pedal nice and firm.
@@3rdGenGuy And another question. I have a '92 RS where I am doing an LS swap & I put in a 4th gen (disc brake) rear. Any modifications required for that braking system? Thx again!
Hey bud, ive got a 92 rs, i don't know if you ora anyone here could anwser this for ne .my oil temp starts off really high like at 60 psi high and then gradually drops to about 45-40 as it warms up. However when i come to a stop it drops to 14-15 psi when im idling....it makes me nervous, should i be or is this a common thing these 305 tbi engines do. It has about 210,000 miles on it.
This is a practical method to improve oil pressure in an older, high-mileage engine. The slightly thicker oil film from the heavier base weight oil - 10W - can help protect worn engine bearings as well.
@@xravenhairsexgod thank you, i know low oil pressure isnt good but if its only when i idle at a red light or in heavy traffic, is it something i should be worried about??
I think I found an adapter from wildwood that could work. It's a m10x1.5 to AN 3 with part number #6174043. I think it could work with that one, only one to find out. Lol
you can put a lamborghini booster and master, iff you dont have more pressure at the calliper its useless. a lot of these 82 to 1998 models vertually had no brakes compared to a mazda, toyota or nissan. you need to do pressure tests, not google tests like i wasted time doing for 10 years.
Just a FYI
Recently many 3rd gen guys who installed the 4th gen Booster+Master have had issues with brake calipers dragging.
Some have fixed this by adding small washers behind the master cyl to remove any pin preload.
be diligent about parts
If you have stock 3rd gen front disk and drum rear is this still an alright upgrade?
You are the man
Great videos, pls dont stop!
they also make a nice tool. $40 that you can make both bubble and inverted flare. even come's with the lube for the line. I used it to make both lines SAE and metric for my 92 Camaro. when installing My line lock..Titan 51535 on amizon $59 now. when doing the 3/16 line. for brakes or NOS. that tool rocks..makes the job easy!
Very well explained!
JUST to clarify, the 4th gen Master Cly is really only needed if you have aftermarket brakes.
it will work with stock brakes, but will have a bit of pedal take up compared to stock.
Also, 4th gen Brake master cylinder is best paired with the 4th gen booster.
the 3rd gen booster will have a little bit of a dead pedal at the very top of the travel
since the 3rd gen booster pin is slightly shorter than the 4th gen one.
the 4th gen booster is more firm and has almost No take up.
will a 4th gen master cylinder from 6 banger the same as a Z/28 ?
@@55chevyman4u2nv i don't know about that. all i know is the V8 master works/.
Is there a particular model of Willwood Proportioning Valve you'd recommend? And is there a particular model year of 4th Gen Master Cylinder to use?
the part# is listed at 0:01 and 2:18
@@3rdGenGuy thanks, I must have missed it.
Great video, I was just thinking last night how bad the stock brakes are!
What did you do about the electric brake light sensor? I noticed it was a different connector, and a two wire. Thanks
i didn't connect it. car didn't seem to care. no check engine lights or anything.
@@3rdGenGuy Appreciate it, when I did a 97 4th gen rear-end swap (to get limited slip, disc brakes, and lower geared posi) my red brake light on the dash came on, I assume due to the "new" pressure variance. Even though frankly, the brakes now feel and stop far better. LOL Thanks, enjoy your presentations.
Do you have a problem with a bit of "free travel" between the master cylinder and the brake booster? I've read on various threads that you shouldn't install the 4th Gen master to the 3rd Gen booster.
I too was wondering about the Third Gen Booster.
I measured the 3rd gen Master Cly and the 4th gen one and the dimensions at the base are identical
the only difference is the 3rd gen master cly bore is larger.
the first 1/2-3/4 in of pedal travel is light braking and the rest is a nice feeling solid pedal for hard stops.
i'll see if i have any issues later on, but I've done some 90mph hard stops without a hitch
this video got copyright struck for audio.
so the Audio is all messed up.
sry about that guys.
3:07 oh yeah baby
Man I just ordered all the parts and got them but didn’t see the Edelman 262015 fitting. I’m having a hard time finding that. Any other fittings known to work or where to find them?
the Edelman 262015 fitting is a rare one. i found it on some random parts website. don't remember what place. looks like Summit racing has them, but on back order.
Okay thanks I’ll keep looking
How you do the wiring for the master and proportioning valve. Is a nice upgrade
there is no wiring.
THx for the VID.... all swapped up... curious if you hooked up the switch at the back of the bias or if thats for brake lights?
it's for newer cars.
I left mine unplugged.
3rd gens have a switch behind the brake pedal.
I need to know the part number for the fitting going to the wilwood proportion valve from the master cylinder. And is it a double flare used?
the picture shows it at 0:00 - 0:27
I’m a big fan of all your videos and thank you for explaining everything on your projects so clearly. I need some advice I recently did the LS1 brake upgrade to my 90 Iroc. Brakes look great but my brake pedal feel is super soft for the first portion of brake pedal travel that was not there prior to my swap. What ideal MC/Booster/ proporting valve do you think would help get a quicker and firmer pedal feel. Thanks again.
4th gen master+Booster
go to a parts store and order a 98-02 Camaro SS booster and master. you can use the stock prop valve if you want to save money.
i have videos installing both
3rd Gen Guy -
I ended up getting the 4th Gen Master cylinder/Booster along with the Wilwood proportioning valve and everything you listed on your video and the soft pedal issue has been resolved. Thanks a ton !!!! I have not yet adjusted my proportioning valve but even then the difference is drastically much better.
will any 4th genmaster cylinder work are fit
Awesome information! I upgraded to 98-02 REAR brakes on my 82 camaro but the fronts are still stock 3rd gen brakes.. it still has the 3rd gen master cylinder and booster, I plan on installing a 4th gen master cylinder AND booster soon as i understand the 4th gens are better. Is it ok to upgrade the rear brake calipers (98-02 style) and not the fronts? Also, can i use the stock 3rd gen proportioning valve with the 4th gen master and booster?
the front brakes do most of the work.
it's best to start there.
7:23 - don't you mean the fronts should lock-up just before the rears? Having the fronts lock first would produce understeer whilst the rears before the fronts would produce oversteer - braking in a straight line, I would have thought, in order to keep the car going in a straight line, you'd want to avoid anything which produces oversteer in case anything introduces a difference in resistance on one side of tyres vs the other side.
a Typo,
you want the front to lock up a bit before the rears.
@@3rdGenGuy Ah good - I was beginning to question what I'd taken as fact for many years!
Is this technically doing anything different than a T on the front lines and a prop valve on the rears?
the wilwood prop valve is basically that.
it splits the front line into 2.
the rearline is completely separate from the fronts.
Hi,
Great video!
You stated in your video:
“This is a necessary upgrade if you already installed aftermarket brakes on your car. The factory system uses a dual bore master cylinder that doesn’t work well with new brakes”
Could you explain a bit more?
I have converted from 4 oem discs system to Wilwood #140-7149 for rear and #140-11275 for front. Basically 4 pistons system with 12.19” crossed drilled and slotted discs. I used braided flexible lines on 4 wheels but kept all original hard brake lines, master and prop valve.
Feels 200% better than stock and it stops real hard with no major lock-up. It's street use, not racing or autocross. Am I missing something? I am curious to figure out what is not “working well”.
Thanks
Simon
stock brake calipers are "Low drag"
that meant using a dual bore master.
modern brakes don't need the dual bore master.
@@3rdGenGuy Thanks for reply,
Makes sense. So would it reduce pressure initially because of the design of the take up valve meant to work with low drag calipers? Less pressure initially but more volume. I'm still trying to figure out how it won't "work well". Because if there is room for improvement I am willing to swap my OE master.
I'm curious by nature!
Hey I’m going to install the valve and master cylinder today. Do you know what that switch does coming off the front of the prop valve?
the switch is for cars with a safety brake pressure switch or brake lights.
neither is used for a 3rd gen.
I removed mine and used a 1/8 NPT plug in it.
@@3rdGenGuy Got it! Thanks man. Thanks for the videos.
Great video. I've got everything installed and plumbed except my rear 6mm brake line there's just much extra brake line up front by the wildwood valve. I need to cut and shorten the rear line. Any ideas I might just have to re run the rear brakes like completely since I can find a 6mm bubble flare tool?
you can bend it in a circle like stock to remove slack.
you can re-run the rear line in a standard 1/4in brake line. although running a new 1/4 line would be a lot of work overall.
Great content! Could anyone tell me how the Wilwood preforms with an oe 3rd Gen master cylinder, compared to the 4th gen master.
the prop valve doesn't care what master cly it's connected to.
Why did you put the proportion valve backwards?
nope, it's correct based on the GM master ports.
Question, the power brake booster filter, that black canister inline with the booster, can that be installed backwards? Is there only one way to install it?
not sure, i just replaced the stock one in the same direction.
Any part numbers for the lines
first 29 seconds of the video Fam
Is the bracket not needed?
not really. you can mount it if you want too.
the prop valve weights like 11oz
I also have a '92 RS where I am doing an LS swap & I put in a 4th gen (disc brake) rear. Any modifications required for that braking system? Thx again!
How do you handle the wire hook up? The stock prop valve is one wire and the wilwood is 2?
i just ignored the wire. i don't even think it does anything.
Could you explain why the 4th gen master is better?
What is the pn for that skookum prop valve??
3rd gen master is a dual bore design made for GM's "LOW DRAG" calipers
they are by design squishy and vague pedal feel wise.
the 4th gen master is a cheap upgrade and Bolts right up to any 88-92 car without any flaring (if you keep the stock prop valve)
the 4th gen master doesn't play well with the stock front brakes so only do the swap if you upgrade the brakes.
@@3rdGenGuy I have C4 13" HD brakes on the front. I was planning to gut the prop valve, but i really like that Wilwood unit. My rears are still delco Moraine, i have an LS1 setup i have to figure out how to mount on a 9 bolt. Would i see an improvement with the 4th gen master?
Hey man wicked video, helped me alot with getting my will wood prop installed. Parts numbers really helped. After the install whats your pedal feel like? I've got 4th gen master and willwood valve plus 4th gen brakes on all corners. My brakes lock up but it takes a decent amount of pedal travel. It doesn't go to the floor but the first inch of travel doesn't really bite. Feels spongier than I think it should. I've checked every flare, banjo and bleed nothing leaks and like I said I bled it a rediculous amount. Still end up with the same feeling. With the car off its rock freaken hard.
takes a while to bleed brakes on a 3rd gen.
i always recommend bleeding brakes 3 times over a 2-3 week period.
if that doesn't help, try a more aggressive Pad compound.
@@3rdGenGuy good to know lol I on the verge of losing my mind chasing this soft pedal. Thought it was just me. Its drivable right now so I'll do like you say bleed it in a week or so a couple of times. I might do some spirited driving maybe that will help force the air closer to the bleeders. I definitely need some etc yellow stuff.
We can't use the lines from a 4th gen with it?
no because the 4th gen uses all metric bubble flair brake lines. the wilwood prop valve uses 3/8 inverter flair fittings.
87 Camaro. I'm running wilwood 4 piston calipers up front stock drum rear. Putting together this setup you have here. Couple questions. The stock single wire that went to stock proportion valve is not used when using the wildwood adj prop valve ? Also I don't need to hook up the two prong switch on the wilwood valve as my brakes should still operate by the switch on the pedal, Right ?
honestly, i have NO idea what that single wire is even for. i didn't replace it and nothing happened. NO check engine lights. with old cars like ours we don't need to mess with the wring.
@@3rdGenGuy I researched it. Its connected to you brake light circuit. So if you were to lose a big drop in brake pressure due to a leak it turns on your brake light in the dash to let you know. It can be just left unhooked.
@@mrneg9 did you end up hooking the light on the dash up?
Wow
Hi i have 3 gen GTA With disc brakes on front and rear. I think those are not stuck but something better (not brembo but something else) would change stock master cylinder help me get better brakes?
the new master is really a companion upgrade to better brakes.
The best low cost option is getting a set of Hawks HPS pads. they are leaps and bounds better than stock pads.
I am running a Willwood Master Cylinder with a Willwood prop valve. I am using the third-gen booster. The brakes were all upgraded to GEN 5 Brembos front and rear through BigBrake Upgrade. The pedal feel is very vague and the travel is really long. Will the 4th gen booster help with these problems? Any suggestions?
Yes, ditch the 3rd gen booster.
the 3rd gen booster has weird pedal travel.
I have a video installing the 4th gen booster as well.
@@3rdGenGuy Just finished the 4th Gen Booster swap. Fixed everything. The pedal feels much more like a modern car. Pedal travel has been reduced a lot. Great information on your video. Thanks.
Okay I have an 88 Iroc Z. I just swapped the rear drums to discs from a 93 Z28 Lt1. There is a lot of bias still. I’m guessing I need a new prop valve. Will I need to flare the lines to fit the stock Master Cylinder if I use the Wilwood you used in the video?
ya, since the wilwood lines use a 3/8x24 inverted flair. the OEM factory lines are different
Oh okay so would I need the same fittings you used even though your MC is a 4th gen and mine would still be the stock 3rd gen?
@@TheMunozJandI later 3rd gen master Cly have the same Metric lines as the 4th gen booster. (1987+ is metric)
Back again…lol. I just finished front ls1 brake conversion. I ran it for a about a week and the brakes obviously still felt kinda mushy so I ahead and installed an ls1 master cylinder and brake booster. I haven’t installs the adjustable prop valve. I have it with the spring mod. Which seemed like it kinda works. The brake pedal feels great. Almost too great. Almost No pedal travel. However, I noticed that the front brakes/calipers are not releasing all the way maybe about 90-95 percent. They feel slightly engaged. Do you have any idea why this might be?? I didn’t replace my brake hoses. But I do know that i I didn’t have that before the MC and booster swap.
@@TheMunozJandI did you grease the brake sliders?
Could I put the 4th gen master cylinder on the stock prop valve and avoid having to flare new lines?
Edit: for a 92 Firebird
yep, a 92 used metric lines so the 4th gen master and booster fits.
Hey, will a 4th gen proportional valv work in this case??? Thatbis what i have now
depends on the Bias %,
@@3rdGenGuy Sorry, What?
Is there an easy diy way to fix a fuel gauge not working?
depends on if it''s the IN-tank sending unit or the gauge
@@3rdGenGuy I am pretty sure it is the gauge, it was stuck at 1/2 tank and the needles on the temp and oil pressure gauges weren't accurate, so I took out the motors and applied 12 volts to the pins that get power to send them to zero and put the needles back on to "zero" them, and now the gas gauge doesn't move at all, just at zero. I tried to find new motors, but I couldn't find a source.
After converting rear brakes from drum to disc ('92 Z28), is a (different) proportioning valve required? Brakes bled, yet pedal still goes almost to the floor for full stop (as if air was in the lines)...any improvement recommendations?
A prop valve is needed to get the full use from the new rear disks. but the stock prop valve will still work.
as far as bleeding, the rears are hard due to the long distance. I bleed the brakes like 4-5 times before i got the pedal nice and firm.
@@3rdGenGuy Thank you...describe your bleed process?
@@3rdGenGuy And another question. I have a '92 RS where I am doing an LS swap & I put in a 4th gen (disc brake) rear. Any modifications required for that braking system? Thx again!
Do i NEED the 4th gen master cylinder or can i keep my 3rd gen. Just wondering cause i literally JUST bought and replaced it LOL
you can keep the 3rd gen master. the 4th gen single bore master is used if you upgraded the front brakes to say LS1 or C5/C6 vette brakes.
Is this needed on a 1988 Trans Am GTA 5.7L?
if you upgraded the front or rear brakes yes.
if you have stock brakes, NO
Hey bud, ive got a 92 rs, i don't know if you ora anyone here could anwser this for ne .my oil temp starts off really high like at 60 psi high and then gradually drops to about 45-40 as it warms up. However when i come to a stop it drops to 14-15 psi when im idling....it makes me nervous, should i be or is this a common thing these 305 tbi engines do. It has about 210,000 miles on it.
If the oil cap says to use 5W30 try 10W30 synthetic or non synthetic oil. That resolved my issue until I went LSX
This is a practical method to improve oil pressure in an older, high-mileage engine. The slightly thicker oil film from the heavier base weight oil - 10W - can help protect worn engine bearings as well.
@@xravenhairsexgod thank you, i know low oil pressure isnt good but if its only when i idle at a red light or in heavy traffic, is it something i should be worried about??
that's perfectly normal.
my car with a NEW oil pump and 5W30 runs the same Oil pressure as your car.
you only need 7Psi per 1,000rpm
@@3rdGenGuy right on thanks chief
I think I found an adapter from wildwood that could work. It's a m10x1.5 to AN 3 with part number #6174043. I think it could work with that one, only one to find out. Lol
Did it work?
Whats the plug on the 4th gen master cylinder for ? Or do you not use plug ?
you mean the factory brake fluid level sender? ya not necessary to use on a 3rd gen.
you can put a lamborghini booster and master, iff you dont have more pressure at the calliper its useless. a lot of these 82 to 1998 models vertually had no brakes compared to a mazda, toyota or nissan. you need to do pressure tests, not google tests like i wasted time doing for 10 years.