Thanks very much. Dad was gone before TH-cam came but he would have enjoyed your work as much or more than I do. (And I enjoy it a lot!) Jim Bell (Australia)
You should check out a anti-oxidation/anti-scaling heat treating paints, they work great. I've been using them for about 2 years now for heat treating knives and I haven't had an issue with scaling yet.
Nice work, for your viewers information, standard flat head machine screws are countersunk at 82 degrees. Metric flat head machine screws are 90 degrees.
That heat treat oven is a great addition to a small machine shop. Trying to get your parts scheduled thru a commercial heat treat shop was always a nightmare - they always tried to slip my parts in with someone else’s job that needed similar heat treat. But ‘similar’ is not ‘exactly’, is it? Our prototype engine machine shop eventually set up a heat treat department using mostly hot salt bath heat treat. Dangerous, took special training and protective gear to go back there.
Nice to have you back hope you're feeling well. If I'm not mistaken you had gallbladder surgery correct? I had the same thing done about 2 years ago. The side effects that I noticed most a change in the way everything tasted. I hope you're not experiencing that!
Keith Rucker's Broiled Vice Jaw Recipe: Take 2 hardened slabs of steel, bake for 800 degrees F for 2 hours, then let soak for the juices to settle, remove from foil and Enjoy!
Yes, it involves using a Pointed Profile Cutter and angling the table (some mills do this) or the vise (much more commonly) to half the desired hatch angle (in each direction). Without a gang mill/hob it is a (very) slow operation. Keith did it this way because he doesn't have a shaper. He could have done it on the Planer, but the setup would have been more time consuming.
@@zackeudy2978 Most horizontal mills/ cutters can move an enormous amount of metal (large depth of cut); With this shallow knurl pattern, minimal depth of cut was needed. Knurling on a mill is a generally a cutting operation, not a forming operation (like using a knurling tool on a lathe), thus cutting pressures are very low. In this case, Keith didn't have an "exact" pattern to follow, he modelled it off of the worn jaws. He measured the pitch and the angle of the Knurl, and simply "eyeballed" the cutter depth, until he reached a satisfactory approximation of the original jaws. For this, the best solution in terms of working with what you had.
The paper is an option but not really necessary if the foil is double crimped tight to exclude all air. Heat treat at 1725 F for one hour per inch of thickness. Temper at 425 F for one hour at heat. Unwrap and you’re done.
Can someone explain the difference between a centre drill and a spot drill, I am familiar with a centre drill (use on my lathe and drill press) but have not come across a spot drill.
Wow Keith you serious about people say not to use a center drill some of us home shop don’t have a lot of money plus like where you using the tooling to make the angle for the screw a center drill also has a 60 deg angle could have used it for the screw .
Stan has a series of videos where he goes through the various stages of development. The "argon option" was popular at one time, but I think he found it to be more trouble and certainly more expensive than the SS wrapping idea. I am not sure if American Rotary kept Stan's argon kit option or not.
I love this channel. So many restorations, mostly for other people. That's very, very respectable. But what about your machine vise on your milling machine? I'm sure it does what it's supposed to, but it looks a little sad or neglected. I would be happy to see a small project if time permits ;-) Best regards from Germany, Raik
Do all 3 center drill spots first and then drill- instead of changing that drill a bunch of times. You could also stack your 2 jaws and do all the holes at one time. Flip your jaw and clamp in the vise to do the countersink since your pilot is smaller than the hole
Youre awesome, Keith!
Thanks very much. Dad was gone before TH-cam came but he would have enjoyed your work as much or more than I do. (And I enjoy it a lot!) Jim Bell (Australia)
thank you Keith, great project with nice machining and Harding.... :)
Great review of the process from raw stock to heat treated, finished parts.
Well done
Always enjoy watching and learning. Thanks Keith.
Thanks for sharing
Good Morning Keith.
You should check out a anti-oxidation/anti-scaling heat treating paints, they work great. I've been using them for about 2 years now for heat treating knives and I haven't had an issue with scaling yet.
Thanks for yet another cool video project. It was a lot of fun and is much appreciated.
About time you got back in the shop, you slacker... Good to see you up and about.
Excellent! I had heard of, but had never seen demonstrated, that hardness testing process.
Nice work! I know the family will be very happy.
That was a learning lesson. Thank You Keith.
Good project while you recover. Get well soon!
Would love to have one of those heat treat ovens. Maybe some day. Thanks for sharing Keith, always enjoy watching.
Interesting little project. Great information.
Thanks for sharing.
Great video Keith, keep'um coming..
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
During my tool and die apprenticeship I was taught to use a center drill for manual machining and a spot for cnc.
Nice work, for your viewers information, standard flat head machine screws are countersunk at 82 degrees. Metric flat head machine screws are 90 degrees.
KEITH, TELL EVERYBODY HELLO, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT JOB...SEE YOU ALL NEXT TIME...
That heat treat oven is a great addition to a small machine shop. Trying to get your parts scheduled thru a commercial heat treat shop was always a nightmare - they always tried to slip my parts in with someone else’s job that needed similar heat treat. But ‘similar’ is not ‘exactly’, is it?
Our prototype engine machine shop eventually set up a heat treat department using mostly hot salt bath heat treat. Dangerous, took special training and protective gear to go back there.
Great video. Thank you.
Roll it like a Burrito Keith!
Nice to have you back hope you're feeling well. If I'm not mistaken you had gallbladder surgery correct? I had the same thing done about 2 years ago. The side effects that I noticed most a change in the way everything tasted. I hope you're not experiencing that!
Kieth I noticed in this video you didn’t use any oil during machining or drilling. When do you decide to use oil and when do you not?
I know he doesn't use it on cast iron.
Keith Rucker's Broiled Vice Jaw Recipe:
Take 2 hardened slabs of steel, bake for 800 degrees F for 2 hours, then let soak for the juices to settle, remove from foil and Enjoy!
I love heat treating but it really lacks the excitement when nothing catches on fire. 😂
Are you still working on the diresta bandsaw? Next video soon?
Can you knurl on a horizontal mill?
Yes, it involves using a Pointed Profile Cutter and angling the table (some mills do this) or the vise (much more commonly) to half the desired hatch angle (in each direction). Without a gang mill/hob it is a (very) slow operation. Keith did it this way because he doesn't have a shaper. He could have done it on the Planer, but the setup would have been more time consuming.
I understand. Gently increase pressure. Yes?
@@zackeudy2978 Most horizontal mills/ cutters can move an enormous amount of metal (large depth of cut); With this shallow knurl pattern, minimal depth of cut was needed. Knurling on a mill is a generally a cutting operation, not a forming operation (like using a knurling tool on a lathe), thus cutting pressures are very low. In this case, Keith didn't have an "exact" pattern to follow, he modelled it off of the worn jaws. He measured the pitch and the angle of the Knurl, and simply "eyeballed" the cutter depth, until he reached a satisfactory approximation of the original jaws. For this, the best solution in terms of working with what you had.
Great stuff, but I hope no-one lets you wrap the birthday and Christmas presents.
A little blue painter's tape and it is ready for presentation!
😂😂😂
Amen
Hey Keith, What type of keyless chuck do you run?
With the quality of tools Keith uses, it almost has to be an Albrecht. German made, good stuff.
@@Hoaxer51 Thanks Tim I agree
Would the paper have been better or more efficient placed in the grooves between the jaws instead of being placed the jaws and the SS foil wrapping?
The paper is an option but not really necessary if the foil is double crimped tight to exclude all air. Heat treat at 1725 F for one hour per inch of thickness. Temper at 425 F for one hour at heat. Unwrap and you’re done.
Can someone explain the difference between a centre drill and a spot drill, I am familiar with a centre drill (use on my lathe and drill press) but have not come across a spot drill.
A center drill is used to drill a hole for a center. I'm not positive about this, but I think a spot drill is used to get a hole started.
Wow Keith you serious about people say not to use a center drill some of us home shop don’t have a lot of money plus like where you using the tooling to make the angle for the screw a center drill also has a 60 deg angle could have used it for the screw .
Why as many as three mounting screws?
👏🏽
In-den-taaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyy-shun
your vice moved when you were edge finding in the channel
Keith if there was a way to purge the oven with Co2 would you still need to wrap it in stainless steel with the paper? Nice Job Keith!
TOT has the same oven but his came with a kit to inject argon into the oven to displace the air.
Stan has a series of videos where he goes through the various stages of development. The "argon option" was popular at one time, but I think he found it to be more trouble and certainly more expensive than the SS wrapping idea. I am not sure if American Rotary kept Stan's argon kit option or not.
@@millwrightrick1 Didn't TOT still wind up with some scale?
Purging the chamber with nitrogen also works to remove oxygen and prevent scaling.
That stainless foil looks awfully sharp …
It is, in fact, incredibly sharp
I love this channel. So many restorations, mostly for other people. That's very, very respectable.
But what about your machine vise on your milling machine? I'm sure it does what it's supposed to, but it looks a little sad or neglected. I would be happy to see a small project if time permits ;-)
Best regards from Germany, Raik
I don't have sound.
Sometimes in life that is a good thing!
Do all 3 center drill spots first and then drill- instead of changing that drill a bunch of times. You could also stack your 2 jaws and do all the holes at one time. Flip your jaw and clamp in the vise to do the countersink since your pilot is smaller than the hole
Why not just clamp it in the vice ..................
The drill press doesn't move so why go through the trouble for every chamfer?
6th!
45th!