ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
ต่อไป
เล่นอัตโนมัติ
Kayak Self Rescue Techniques - Kayak Ladder Rescue and Flip LineKayak Hacks Fishing
มุมมอง 57K
How to Anchor a Fishing KayakKayak Catfish
มุมมอง 401K
Getting in and out of a kayakBear Lake Lodgings B&B, Inc. Seward, Alaska
มุมมอง 637K
ไฮไลท์เจลีก คอนซาโดเล่ ซัปโปโร เปิดบ้านถล่ม ซางัน โทสุ 5-3 | 16.08.24Siamsport
มุมมอง 191K
Harley Quinn's revenge plan！！！#Harley Quinn #jokerHarley Quinn with the Joker
มุมมอง 13M
หลักฐานชี้! ตำรวจไซเบอร์ยิง "สิบเอก" ดับคารีสอร์ต | ข่าวเย็นช่องวัน | สำนักข่าววันนิวส์ข่าวช่องวัน
มุมมอง 435K
"ประวิตร" ฉุนจัดคุมตัวเองไม่อยู่ตบหัวสื่อ สังคมรุมประณามพฤติกรรมไม่เหมาะสม : Matichon TVmatichon tv
มุมมอง 598K
Why Is My Kayak Sinking?! What You NEED TO KNOW About Kayak Flotation.Headwaters Kayak
มุมมอง 54K
Kayak Fishing in Rough Water - Kayak Safety Tip for Boat WakeKayak Hacks Fishing
มุมมอง 93K
Buoyancy Foam TestOm Fishing
มุมมอง 87K
3 Very Cool Kayak Fishing Hacks- Using just a cheap $1.00 pool noodle part 1Great American Survival
มุมมอง 257K
Easy DIY Pourable Marine FoamDIYeasycrafts
มุมมอง 108K
Dollar store alternative for kayak airbagsTravis Fam Adventures
มุมมอง 21K
How to Make a Super Kayak: Adding a Skegzoffinger
มุมมอง 598K
Don't Make this Anchor Trolley Mistake Kayak FishingKayak Hacks Fishing
มุมมอง 292K
Pelican Argo 100XR - Instant Stern Bulkhead & Positive Buoyancy for Under $30HendroRydes
มุมมอง 1K
الذرة أنقذت حياتي🌽😱Cool Tool SHORTS Arabic
มุมมอง 1M
🔴LIVE เชียร์สด : อิปสวิช ทาวน์ พบ ลิเวอร์พูล | หงส์แดงบุกรังม้าขาว นัดเปิดฤดูกาลGOTJISIRI CH
มุมมอง 307K
居然见到了图片上的红烧牛肉面！该死！又被秀到了！ #funny#生活#搞笑东东一家
มุมมอง 3.6M
มาลองทดสอบให้เด็กสายไอทีแก้ Code กันBorntoDev
มุมมอง 60K
ลุงตู่มาเหนือเมฆจริงๆทักษิณติดกับดักรัฐธรรมนญปี60แล้วจ่อโดนยุบพรรคอีกมอเตอร์ไซค์ อินดี้
มุมมอง 141K
แบงค์ปิ ปิยวัฒน์ - เทคมีเอาท์ไทยแลนด์ ปัดขวาหารัก EP.1 (17 ส.ค.67) Full EPTV Thunder Official
มุมมอง 202K
น้าครับ..ผมรักน้า EP.04 - ปีกแดงเดอะซีรีส์2024[ฟินมาก] บทซีรีส์สร้างขึ้นเพื่อความบันเทิงเท่านั้นเอ็มวีดี ซีรีส์ม่วน MVD系列很有趣
มุมมอง 129K
For more recovery lessons learned: th-cam.com/play/PL8egn41J7Go-uI0UCbLAhsXm-ioiyTSdd.html
Float bags work a lot better than pool noodles. The people who sold you your kayak did you a disservice by not suggesting them and showing them to you. Float bags take up all the space but leave room for your gear. Also they stabilize your gear by holding it in place. Put in your gear and then the float bag on top then inflate it and the gear is pinned in place and will not slide around.
I agree that a float bag would be best but there is no room in the hatches to accommodate it. The only unused space is down the sides and the middle.
you can get long float bags for that. Remember the float bags can inflate around your stuff, so you can use big ones and they will still fit. They don;t need to be fully inflated, just inflated enough to take up all the space.
Wow.usually when we think (kayaking) the first thing that comes to mind is "fishing". Sinking hardly ever crosses my mind. Thank you for taking time and effort for performing the actual experience in a pool. That was very helpful. God Bless you sir.👍😇😎
Well, whenever I think of getting on water, first thing I think about is sinking , and how to stay float without being drowned.
Good thought-provoking video, Steve! I couldn't tell in the video if there's a gasket on the front hatch to make it watertight. If I had no bilge pump, and the front hatch is watertight, I would close it to try and maintain any air pockets that might be trapped within the hull. Since you now know that you can't reenter w/o the bow going under, maybe disconnect the seat and move/stow it to the rear, then reenter in the seat location if possible. Being in front of the seat position looks like it is putting you too far forward of the fore and aft (trim) pivot point. Moving the drive mechanism aft would possibly help in weight distribution for reentering also.
I like the pool noodle idea, but as stated, would hamper stowing rods within the hull, for those that do so (like me :) )
Something I've been meaning to do is a "chalk test" on my front hatch to check the seal on the gasket. Take a piece of soft chalk and rub it around the lip that meets the hatch gasket. Close the hatch, rotate the levers/knobs, or whatever mechanically seals the hatch shut. Then, open the hatch and look for any gaps (no chalk) on the gasket. If there are gaps, water can enter in that location. The chalk test is how we tested, and adjusted the watertight fittings (doors, hatches, scuttles) aboard ship.
Sorry for the long rant, Steve.
There is a gasket that does not look really watertight... just water resistant on both hatches. I thought about including the idea for rod storage in the video, but it would make it too long. Basically, just thread a PVC or flexible 2" pipe into the hull to maintain space for a rod. on each side. You make a great point on the seat and the center of balance. The drive definitely needs to go to the back and tied down before reentry. Unfortunately, I need to get close to a hatch to pump and, given typical gear, that would be the front hatch. I did pump after removing the drive and it was OK. Always good to get floating advice from the Navy! :-)
No problem on the "floating advice". My old job (Damage Control) creeping to the surface again :) . I like the idea you have about the flexible tubes for internal rod storage.
Checkout "Key West Kayak Fishing" channel. Looks like he has a bilge pump permanently/semi-permanently mounted in the front deck of his kayak.
Great videos, thanks ! I am new to kayaks and last week I flipped 12 ft SOT, on a fairly fast river ( by my standards) with a lot of large rocks, but also with an ACA kayak instructor about 20 ft away. Just getting the right position and kicking direction to flip the boat back upright took way longer than I liked and getting back in was tough til the guy with me began holding the boat in a good position. If I had been alone it would have been very hard to do anything except very slowly swim it and me to shore. I thought of a flip rope while I was in the water, and afterwards the instructor with me talked about a rope stirrup and strongly emphasized the need for me to get a lot of reentry practice in a safe. I didnt think of the noodles or a pump until I watched your vids just now. You just saved me, and probably others, a lot of aggravation and quite possibly saved a few lives. Thanks !
Thanks! Here is my video on making a stirrup that you can also use as a stand up assist rope. th-cam.com/video/fTkmt_XZRyE/w-d-xo.html
I literally thought of this 5 mins before I came across your video! Thanks for the validation- I KNEW IT WOULD WORK!!!😊
Several years ago, a member of the local kayak fishing club experienced a kayak beginning to sink as they were fishing. A small crack at a scupper hole was the culprit. They made it back to the beach, but they were a bit shaken. They started using pool noodles in their yak after that. I have had a couple of noodles in our yaks for several years, but seeing this video, I think I will add some additional noodles. Most kayaks have a good deal of unused / unusable space that is ideal for this.
I can't imagine anything scarier than being on a large body of water in a sinking boat.
my friend kayaks the Murray River near Waikerie every weekend. He added buoyancy by hot glueing empty coke/soda bottles (plastic) to the inside of his kayak. They come in many sizes so finding a fit in the many crevices wasn't difficult. He said it works a treat.
Great tip! Thanks!
I believe iT is very possible to get in more trouble in a sit in kayak vs a bulkhead type sea kayak. Basically, one breeched hatch can Flood the whole kayak, if see whitewater kayakers they use floatation Bags in the front and rear of kayak. You need to make sure they are fasten to the kayak or the bags Will float out. A couple Cubic feet of bags Will give over a 100 lbs of floatation.
Thanks for a very good denomination, and the point about how the pedal drive can become a hazard that can trap you under your kayak.
Wow, great video! Lifesaving info about the danger of getting trapped by the drive unit. I never would have thought of that! And yes, even pool “op testing” can be dangerous.. thanks for creating this video!
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
Noodles are a great fix if you leave the front hatch as-is from the manufacturer. As I explained in your other video, making the front "dry" hatch waterproof with pipe foam and sealing it with silicone, you won' t get any water in the cavity at all . That's after two tubes and about fifteen hosings with tons of water in testing and now not a drop inside. I'm 70 and usually fish alone near Adelaide and my first roll-over with the Jackson scared the heck out of me since a boat half full of water is very heavy and can't be rolled back over. Keep up the good work and if you get out to Oz look me up.
Yes, I am going to try it!
I was airlifted from the sea 2 yrs ago. Same situation, kayak got full of water, couldn't enter kayak anymore, tide pulled me deep into ocean, friends were unable to pull me to the shore because of strong currents. Thanks to coast guards who airlifted me and brought to hospital. Even with life jacket, i was half an hour away from death. I got hypothermia. Safety first guys!!
What a nightmare!
Great video! The only suggestion I would add is to tie a rope to the drive unit before moving it to the back so as not to loose it to the bottom.
Great point!
Thanks for covering this, I often think of how to stay afloat. I even thought of compartmentalising squares in the kayak like the titanic in case a shark bit a hole in the back of the kayak, I could still be able to stay afloat
Let’s hope the shark scenario does not happen!
I had a situation this past Sunday. I had forgot to screw my Hobie Revo 16's drain plug back in after rinsing the kayak out from a previous trip. I noticed the kayak was handling weird about a half mile off shore and I found a couple inches of water in the hull when I opened the center hatch. Turned around to head back in but soon after the kayak became too unstable and I got dumped. Ended up swimming the flooded kayak back to shore about 300 yards. Hobie factory installs long foam blocks(same material as pool noodles), and I'm sure those foam blocks are what kept my kayak and my gear from sinking to the depths. And because Kayak did not sink, I was able to hang on to it so I wasn't treading water all the time and getting tired. And yes, was wearing a life preserver.
So, if your kayak isn't a Hobie, and/or doesn't have foam blocks in your hull, please follow his advice and shove a bunch of pool noodles in there soon! They're cheap, and they may help save your kayak, your gear, and your life!
Wow! That was a scary story! It was seeing a similar story on a video that motivated me to take a look at this issue. It's interesting Hobie puts the drain plug on the bottom. I wonder why they did not put it on the top. That's where it is on my Jackson. At least one other video I watched experienced the same thing as you describe.
I believe only the Adventure Island and the 2017 and older Revo 16 has the drain plug on the bottom. Hobie eliminated the that drain plug on 2018 Revo 16. I liked it on the bottom because it was easier to wash out and drain the inside of the hull. Now not so much lol!
I like the idea of retractable outriggers for stability. I might have to get designing in my free time.
1:09 Been there, but didn't swim it back: I was two miles out to sea. I figured out one solution few days after the LA County Life Guards came and rescued me. This would work for the video clip, but not your SOT. Put the skirt back on the cockpit. Then you can pump out even if the coaming is at water level.
In my case I'd just built the kayak, my second. I carefully cut 4" MDFoam larger 1/2 or 1" all around, for the fore and aft bulkheads, then laboriously hammered them into position. I wanted to do a trial run to see if I could move them a bit into the cockpit, so I didn't caulk them. I flipped, and the water went around the bulkheads like they weren't there, (think well corked bottle not holding liquid.) I throw a pool noodle or two in my hatches JIC.I like how you packed them in. I've always thought it was belt and suspenders, but on one of the chatrooms most guys thought it a bad practice to add the weight (yeah, I know, clueless.) In the first kayak, with no bulkheads, of course he probably normally uses float bags. They're easy to make. The thing about float bags is you can deflate them if you want to store stuff in the hatch.
One point you clearly demonstrate: hatches full of water are unstable, I was surprised you kayak was as stable as it was. I put a 'dam' in my cockpit, which is a piece of plywood, attached to my footbrace that divides the cockpit in half. It's more of a baffle than a dam. If my cockpit has 3" or less water sloshing around, it's going to have a hard time going side to side. I've been in sea kayaks on the ocean with 2 inches of water in the cockpit and found it unstable.
One idea I think might be good, but I haven't done it yet, is a pair of big swimming fins. With fins swimming, and pushing a kayak, you're probably at least three times better.
In the ocean hypothermia happens a lot faster than we think. I grew up in the midwest wet and shivering all winter. Being in a 70 degree ocean on a sunny summer day, hanging onto a kayak: within 30 minutes hypothermia is an issue. A friend died from it on a sunny June day.
I've seen videos of DIY Float bags made from welding construction plastic. This seems ideal to me as float bags are usually not even close to 75% of the space. I've never heard of a sea kayak hull breach, including a 23' great white shark chomp that would've punctured any float bag. (Well the kayak of one guy I know was shot, but it was in his driveway at the time.)
Wow! Thank you for your personal perspective and the fixes! I hope folks do not skip over the long comment since you have packed it with great information!
Happy to know it's interesting. I've been a sea kayaker, but not a fisherman for 13 years. I've built a couple of kayaks. I'm a figure it out kind of guy. I think it's neat how the kayak fisherman have a lot of stuff on their yaks. You can see there's a lot of thinking and and sharing going on. I'm primarily interested in getting out on the ocean, paddling around and then coming back alive. There's always an overlap of gear and techniques.
I used "Great Stuff," the expanding Styrofoam in a spraycan which is typically used to fill voids in construction or insulation projects. I only filled the nose and tail sections. But I never tried to sink it for a test. Your demonstration here has shown me that I should test it. I don't really know how well it would actually work in a sinking situation. A few noodles in the mid section would surely help though! Great idea! I enjoy your channel and hope you continue. Stay safe out there everybody!
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
word of caution....the great stuff can foam is not closed cell foam and will soak up water fast.
They do make a closed cell version i think its in a black can but its for filling voids when making ponds. But the normal everyday great stuff will soak and hold water.
If you really want to go the expanding foam route then i would suggest getting 2 part expanding marine foam.
But some caution on it as well...it can cause extreme warping of your hull when it expands.
Yep, good advice. I noticed it held water and did little, if anything, to help buoyancy. Luckily I used it sparingly, so lesson learned. Thanks for the lead and reminding me to mention this back here. Good looking out!
@@earlleegrace3318 NP, glad you found out.
I use it sparingly in my diy foam kayak construction. mainly just as a gap filler and in placed where the chance of water actually getting to it is slim. The skin would have to be torn for it to even get wet.
This is the best video you’ve ever done....the points you made may very well save someone’s life (mine included). I also had no idea about the drive unit trap, going to pass this along to friend with same kayak. It’s important to have a buddy, use a PFD, keep a pump, bring a paddle, keep a rope tied up front, leave excess gear at home, & practice recovery methods with a buddy. I’m headed to pickup some pool noodles for us today. Thank you!!
The drive unit can be jammed and that might prevent the pedals from moving. Whoa! Thanks for the kind words!
TH-cam is also feeding me the same videos you mentioned. Also for both front and back hatch I use milk jugs super-glued shut. It sucks i loose all the storage, but I learned to just use one rod, and the items in a milk crate.
That is a great idea! Thanks! I have room in my back hatch for at least two jugs!
@@KayakhacksFishing In addition to, or instead of, pool noodles and gallon jugs, what do you think about using "airspeed" plastic bags frequently used for shipping (like bubble wrap only much bigger), or maybe using the plastic soda bottles that range in size from half liter to two liters? Like pool noodles, these things can be squeezed into nooks and other small spaces. For containment, the bottles could be put in a mesh bag.
@@gparocks9614 I think anything that holds air would work as long as the membrane is thick enough to withstand the pressure of the water.
Great idea. Thought about it too. Gonna use the noodles when I get my kayak. Still see people not wearing ppods.So many things can happen to you while on the water. Be Safe everyone.
Great video! What I learned today may save my life someday. Thank you,
I added the XL solid pool noodles from Oodles of Noodles (made in USA, available from Amazon) to my Crescent Lite Tackle kayak, but will add a pump based on your video. Thanks for making this safety video.
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
I had the same idea of using pool noodles in my fd. Wish I’d seen this video first. It took three trips to the store before I had enough noodles. I think I got around 28-29 in there. My motivation for filling the dead space was dual purpose, obviously the flotation but, I lost a shoe in my yak on a three day fishing trip and couldn’t get it out until I got home. That was inconvenient but, could have been worse if it was my first aid kit or something I really needed on the water. Another great tip. Keep em coming.
Thanks for the encouragement! I lost my backup collapsable rod in mine once.
This is really interesting to see how the Coosa handles when swamped. This winter I installed a small bilge pump in the stern. I am just keeping the outlet hose coiled up inside. Yes, it does require a connection to the battery, but I keep my battery in a sealed box with a watertight connection to the pump. It will not remove all of the water, but should make quick work. I am going to carry a manual bilge pump.
Thanks for a great suggestion! Anytime you flip, it's scary.
That’s using you’re noodle!
Good video on a subject that nobody covers. Those bilge pumps are slow if you have to move that huge volume of water and not so easy to use if you are in the water, more so if the water is rough. I carry a large plastic jug that moves large amounts of water quickly.( I found this out the hard way in sit inside kayaks) When the water gets shallow inside the kayak the jug is not as good so then I switch to the bilge pump. To finish, a sponge gets that annoying little bit of water that is left. A piece of hose pipe is useful on the bilge pump to throw the water clear. It is a nightmare trying to paddle a kayak that has any significant amount of water in it. I have used pool noodles but I also put my gear in the hatch in a large dry bag and leave as much air as possible in it. I also stuff a life jacket in there which could possibly be used to help a distressed swimmer etc. and gives good buoyancy. Good point about getting trapped by the drive. I heard a story about a very obese man who attempted a wet exit from a sit inside kayak during a kayaking class. His sandals snagged so he couldn't get out. He was so large that the staff could not lift him. The poor man drowned. I look askance at American kayakers who load their kayaks with all kinds of boxes and gear and then paddle with their pfd's behind their seat. I never tried to put on a pfd in the water but I don't think it would be fun. Once again excellent video.
Fantastic advice! Thanks
Exceptional idea. If you're fishing cold water, getting out of the water and into the kayak will potentially save your life as you won't have the time to swim to shore before hypothermia becomes a critical factor. I had thought of walling off a section inside my Predator PDL with mesh fabric and filling it with ping-pong balls as was done to some troop ships in WW2. $40 in pool noodles is a much better idea.
Anything will help!
Interesting, but for the money the manufacturer should have incorporated foam into the design.
The Titan have it, but then you got lot of extra weight.
I agree they should consider this stuff more. They could have filled the middle section with very lightweight foam for floatation and still have the rod storage down the side channels. My old Native Ultimate was the worst. If it filled with water, there was no way to recover it other than swim it to shore. Good luck with that if you are any distance away!
There is a reason that they don't. Carrying capacity of a kayak is already limited and foam adds weight that could be used for useful payload. Adding external flotation in the form of outriggers is probably the best way to go.
@@RedfishInc my argument would be the difference in weight is not very much filling unused compartments of the vessel to make it unsinkable compared to the weight that people add with over gearing kayaks. When on the ocean I think an unsinkable kayak is the best feature safety feature you could possibly have. People bobbing in the ocean are very very hard to spot by coast guard rescue.
@@RedfishInc Standard 2 part floatation foam like they put in boats weighs 2 lbs per cubic foot. A 1 gallon kit creates 8 cubic feet of foam. That means it weighs 16 lbs.
Water weighs 62 lbs per cubic foot so the foam is worth 60 lbs of floatation per cubic foot. That means 8 lbs of foam displaces a net 480 lbs of water. The Jackson Kayak he has weighs 107 lbs and has a capacity of 450 lbs. If he weighs 250 lbs and his gear weighs 100 lbs, he's still WAY under the weight limit for that kayak.
To make that kayak float with 100 lbs of gear, they would need to add just enough foam to float 250 lbs and that is only 4.2 cubic feet of foam. If it is placed around the edges it will make the kayak stronger and add just 8 lbs to the kayak's weight.
His pool noodle idea may not provide quite as much floatation as pour in foam and won't add any additional strength to the kayak, but it definitely add enough floatation to keep the kayak afloat.
So many times I'm out fishing and I see families with their kids out in sit in kayaks and NO ONE has a PFD on.
In the last month we have had 3 people drown on Lake Chickamauga. One was in a kayak 20 yards from shore.
No excuse for no PFD. Such a shame.
Robert Gass That is so sad it only takes 30 seconds to put a pfd on. I never go out in my kayak without one they don't call it an accident for no reason. Have a good day and stay safe Jimmy from Massachusetts
Update today. Two more drownings this weekend.
I don't get it, I spent $200 on a kayak, then shopped around and spent $120 on a PFD that felt good. (a chinook) Just because u buy it at walmart, doesn't mean it's not to be taken serious... safe boating n good fishing. 😎
Just a couple of thoughts. ACA teaches techniques to recover your sit-in type kayak or my in my case an 18 foot sea kayak. This includes exit after rolling and bow push/down technique that Will enable you to recover aand upright a swamped kayak with little water in the cockpit. However the bow and stern was sealed. I think it very important to be caution About opening any hatch exposing the inside to a rogue wave or a turn over. Also, I Carry a paddel float that Will make entry to any kayak easy.
Yes! I opened the hatches to simulate the worst case.
I've used large plastic milk bottles with the lid sealed with building mastic. They have hardly any self weight. I filled the internal void on my S.O.T. kayak. You can test one for strength by stamping on it and putting it in a bucket of water for a week with a brick on top.
Good idea!
I have my pump permanently mounted beside my seat. I give it a few strokes now and then to make sure I don't have water coming in.
Also I used expandable foam to separate my kayak into 3 sections.
Hose into each. Disconnect one hose and connect the other to get each compartment pumped separately.
Perfect!
Another cool video never disappointed. You have a beautiful yard have a good day and stay safe Jimmy from Massachusetts
Great idea... I use them too. But I also put in a 1000gal/12v that run off my fish finder battery. It is a lot easier than to get back into your kayak.
Perfect!
Dude you’re awesome… I feel like I’m in school again and you’re my professor… except I’m actually interested in what you’re saying lol
lol!
Great video …I’d even say one one or two noodles in the Front Hatch or rear is even better than none as long as it doesn’t impede with storage or rudder cables
This is such a beautiful video. You're blessed to live in such a place. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Appreciate it!
Great video! You proved that it's important to place pool noodles in your kayak's hull. I'm worried about a stress fractures from the scupper cart. My latest cart is difficult to take out and in. I saw that video. I can't believe the sidekicks helped keep it up. I wonder how quickly the kayak was filling up with water. I would have called 911. Might not have been able to get a tower.
Thanks for emphasising life jackets. Almost every time I go out, I see adults and kids without life jackets and whistles.
I was surprised they did not call 911 as well. Maybe no cell phone or VHS. If I was going out 5 miles into the ocean, I would definitely have a radio. I carry a VHS and two emergency beacons with me just inshore.
Kayak Hacks Fishing I have a radio on my list. What GPS beacon? That's a good idea. Smart, Safe
Kayak Hacks Fishing: I watched the sinking kayak video previously, and kept thinking that the milk crate (w/rods & gear) on the sinking kayak should have been moved to the towing kayak. Too much weight in the sinking one. For that matter, the owner of the sinking one should have tried to get aboard the towing one also. Never know, it might have proven quicker in shortening the duration of the tow time.
I have two. This one ( amzn.to/2vViLvw ) does not require an annual subscription. It is my backup. I also got this one ( amzn.to/2MqqGLt ) so I could turn on the tracking feature so my wife can make sure I am not in a bar 😀 or would at least know where to find the body. But... it requires an annual subscription.
Kayak Hacks Fishing Thanks again!
One other thing that comes to me about the pool noodle is it will help keep smaller loose items in the hatch from ending up at the other end of the kayak, especially important for those without a rear hatch!
Good point!
Really got me thinking! Pool noodles can really help, front & back.
Oh yeah, a small crack can make water to easily leaks in and it would be late by the time you know it. Good to have a check before heading out.
Awesome video. I did something similar but i only used about 7 pool noodles and a partially filled paddle float.
Sounds great!
That's some great info there to know! I wish I could do that on my SP13, but there's no hull access. For a lack of a better way to explain it, its sealed. I've though about adding storage, but there's just no where to add any that would be good and SAFE!
About the only thing I could do is drill a small hole and fill it with spray foam and that's probably not a good idea either!
If it is sealed, the only thing you have to worry about is a crack. I think most kayaks sink because people leave the hatches open or the drain plug out.
This is true. I seen that video of that guy who was sinking (luckily be had those outriggers on, I think they saved his kayak!) but it turned out it was a scupper crack. It always seems to be a crack, or a worn spot. I check everything over every year during down time (aka winter maintenance) but you just never know. Its always best to have an alternate plan in place though. Who knows what running up on an underwater branch or rock might cause.
I can't imagine trying to swim back to shore towing a kayak behind me for a couple of miles!
I might also add that sometimes things just happen! One time on my older Pescador Angler 12, one of the screws for the pre-made optional rudder mount worked loose and fell out some where along the way. I didn't notice it until I got home and cleaned it the next day. That could have ended in a disaster, but I got lucky and was on the flats that day. I replaced it and gooped it in, just in case, so that would never happen again!
Had a buddy of mine's Ocean Kayak SOT almost sink due to a crack underneath his seat. Luckily we were less than a mile out on Lake Erie and our group always wears PFDs so we were able to tow him in and empty it but it was the only option. Really changed my outlook on SOT yaks. I myself run a Wilderness Pungo 140 Sit in with front and back bulk heads. Never really seen a sit in yak crack like the Sit on top tho. Pool noodles or great stuff(make sure to use the window insulating formula so it doesn't deform your yak from the pressure) definitely makes them safer.
These kinds of tips save live. I have learned a lot from you. THANK YOU. 👍👍👍👍
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
Mine sunk in the Oceanside, CA harbor last year. Luckily... Harbor Patrol saw what happened and came and grabbed us. It can definitely happen.
Thank you so much for this video , great idea with the pool noodles , and cheap also , rest assure that I will be doing that to my kayak , God bless you and your family
Thanks! Appreciate it!
Well done friend! Great information.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for sharing. Great video and info
Keep a dry bag or two in the front hatch to keep the front elevated
I agree if you are not using the hatches for storage. It would be a good idea if you are going on a river with some gentle rapids!
My Hobie Pro Angler has foam already installed
Great video . Thank you . But I think the drive need a leash too .
The drive is bolted in with 8 bolts... it should be ok, thanks for the point!
That will work so will baggies freezer bags. I’m designing bulkheads in my SOT right now.
That’s something I’m all ears for suggestions. Remember; the cross section of a kayak bottom, sidewalls and top are multi angular with radiuses, arcs, flats and no two inches are the same. I must also account for expansion and contraction.
So my design must also distort enough to fit through a 8” Port then reform to fit the interior of the kayak.
It may have to be a permanent installation with strips of compress able non wicking foam.
A life preserver uses this type of materials as well.
So; I’ll be building three bulkheads to give me four water tight compartments. The primary bulkheads will be in areas where no penetrations are made through the hull or top. I can test this by adding an inflation valve and gauge and test it. It must remain pressurized for up to 5 days.
There is no reason the factory can’t build molded bulkheads with expansion bladders.
So; hopefully I get to meet a corporate head of one of these models; I’ll kick him in the nuts for everyone who ever drown because of a sinking kayak.
Please let me know how it goes!
Kayak Hacks Fishing I’m building two bulkheads probably using two or three or four Dollar tree
Net type laundry bags and fill those with several zip lock freezer bags .
I can pack these controlled spaces with individual zip lock bags. Another item I’m definitely adding is weight to the inside hull floor.
I’ll use 2ea. #8 scuba weights secured by placing two modified spring loaded shower curtain rod holders.
I will figure out something to secure them to the floor even if I drill holes in the hull, secure the weights with flanged rubber well nuts to displace the forces if the kayak is tossed over from a huge wave.
The kayak should never stay capsized if the weights are secure to the hull floor. The idea is to create self righting a center rotation axis using the weights and air bags.
I may add additional drop weights if this works out. This should dampen the wave action and response of a bobbing light weight kayak.
I’ve operated small submersibles/ SUBMARINES and owned ROVS and will use some of the same principles of buoyancy and ballast in my kayak.
I think people forget; these are hybrid water toys not dry water craft. I seldom see people dressed for submersion when operating these vessels.
@@dalethebelldiver7740 That will be awesome when you are done!
I think that I might try putting some smaller car or lawn tractor tire inner tubes down the hatch that I don't use much and center the hole in the middle while inflating it. I just need to be careful not to over inflate. And use pool noodles on the other open spaces. Thanks for the video my friend. It was though provoking and eye opening. I am not a very good swimmer.
Inner tubes! Great idea! I am glad you also pointed out the issue of overinflation - you do not want to stress the shape of the hull.
Good info , always be prepared and stay safe
Really good idea and very cost effective but close cell marine expanding foam is readily available on eBay and it's cheap.
It doesn't even better job of filling the bow and stern completely in other words allowing no water to get into those crevices it's low pressure so it's not going to warp or expand your hull
Thanks!
That is what I was looking for, great idea! Thanks Sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Yes, potentially! I haven't had that sinking situation yet, but was scarry to see that you couldn't put yourself on the yak even with the pool noodles in the hull. About to remove the pedal unit, I would say to secure it well, in case you you flip it again while its flotation is not totally recovered. I had a recent episode, which I was surprised by a sudden wave that pushed me to a unforgiving surf.... I was rolled many times, and the my.pedal unit was taken by the smashing forces.... luckily I didn't lost my dive mask and, after I eventually found my pedal unit 5m underwater, while recovering my stuff... thank god, I was in 10km away from civilization, without the pedal power would be much more painful. So, now, a have a leash for my pedal unit... just in case.
What a great video for safety. I will have to add the pool noodles to my hull in order create that buoyancy. Thank you.
I've bought a few inflatable camp pillows to hopefully achieve a similar result as the hatches of my cheap kayak definatly aren't watertight especially if it it chops up while I'm out. They were cheaper than pool noodles at the local cheap shop.
Great idea! Thanks
Fill with expanding foam thatd surely make it water tight you could leave room at both hatches front and back for storage bit the rest filled with foam
I thought of that, but then it would be permanent
@@KayakhacksFishing yeah that is very true I was thinking the same. I guess it would be a good option if you had a spare kayak and did it on the spare
Simple genius idea 👍🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
I placed a vinyl dunnage bag in mine. They are used for shipping freight. Can find online, they fill the entire cavity.
Better solution 1 ; get back in your flooded cockpit If you do that then you will displace the water that's in your cockpit .I know for a fact that that will work on a Pungo 140
Better solution 2: Get one of those big white inflatable fenders that are used to prevent boats from hitting the dock. If you attach a line and then a snap hook to it , you can use it as a supplemental PFD for yourself or your yak
I like #2. #1 is a great idea for a sit inside kayak, but would not work for a sit on top like this one. Thanks for the advice!
The greatstuff foam you can buy in a can at the hardware store. Holds up well for years.
That would work, but would be permanent
Did the same with the pool noodles. They allowed me to swim the kayak to shore.
I flipped my kayak while fishing last week (first time ever), but I was only in 3 feet of water, so I had no problem. But It got me to thinking, so I spent several hours in the deep end ofmy pool, practicing flipping the kayak and getting back in. The one new thing that came up was that water somehow got inside the body of the kayak, and then I could not even turn it over or get back in it. It was supposedly water tight, but water got in somewhere. Thanks for the info.
Pretty scary!
Which brand of kayak do you have? Something all of us should do is check for loose screws, and maybe apply some silicone to the tops of factory-installed rivets.
Greg, I was practicing with my Vibe Yellowfin 100, the same kayak that flipped. I have found the leak, one of the hatches has a bad seal.
@@JAllredFishing: Thanks for the reply, and hope you get the hatch watertight if possible.
vagabond, great response!
I was surprised they don't float a lot better.
God bless & thanks
Fill up any kayak with water and it will barely float.
Take a plastic milk container and cut off part of the top, but leave the handle. This makes a handy baler for emptying the water out of your kayak. You will still want a bilge pump and large sponge.
Great idea! Thanks
Cool video. Would be interesting to compare without the pool noodles
lol. I was afraid I would not be able to get it out of the pool with all the water!
Thanks for the wisdom mister
What about spray foam? Probably cost more than the kayak, but woukd I work,????
It would probably work, take a lot of cans and be permanent. I like the idea of taking the noodles out if I do get water inside so it will dry out.
thanks, Hacks, I will be visiting the $ store soon. You may have saved a couple of lives here.
Thanks! Appreciate it!
The reason the kayak was waterlogged was due to cracks by the scupper hole. In that scenario wouldn’t using a bilge pump be useless since water would continue to enter? I think the noodles are a great idea in case water gets in through the hatch but if the root of the problem is from a crack below water level I don’t think you’ll be able to get the water out, however, the noodles will certainly help with buoyancy.
I agree. That is why I put the noodles in to displace any water coming in from a crack so the kayak would float well enough to get to shore.
You can install a small bilge pump hook it up to a switch and a battery with dry box.
That is a good alternative.
Interesting- I wonder if a live bait well pump could be designed for repurposing in an emergency?
Thank you Sir, for the video
Thanks for the info
If I remember right, one of those leaks was a scupper hole crack. Do you have any advice on repairing such damage? The crack was in a very difficult place to access, in the narrow scupper passage. The 'best' thing I can think of for accessing that sort of a crack, would be to remove the scupper hole from both ends with a hole saw, repair the cracked scupper hole from the 'inside,' then re-weld it back into place!
I would not even want to think of the agony that would be. I am going to avoid the issue by not using a cart with solid extensions that rely on the scupper. If you have that crack, I would take it to a pro.
It's oddly comforting to know that even an experienced kayaker balks at such a scenario! I definitely do not have such a crack, and that video was very convincing for what kind of trolley not to build or buy.
I've been slowly outfitting my first kayak, and greatly enjoying your channel. Unfortunately, the rain this weekend has made taking it out a bit on the dangerous side, considering the swifter currents in local rivers.
edit: If I ever get that sort of a crack, I'll have to carefully consider whether I want the time and trouble or expense of repairing it, or seriously consider an upgrade to another yak!
This is awesome!
I have a bladder bag stuffed in the front and a small car tire inner tube stuffed in the back. Keeps my stuff from rolling in those hard to reach places too.
Great idea!
Great idea!
This is only an idea so I don't know if it will work. Closed cell foam insulation made for homes. It would completely fill any voids the kayak has. Just sayin but not sayin.
I think that would work, but it would also be permanent. I do not know how expensive that would be either.
Only thing is as you pump the water out it comes back in through the crack/hole that flooded your kayak in the first place !
True. This is more protection when you flip and the interior fills up.
What about of all things balloons that deploy by C02 cartridge ?
That would be interesting to investigate
not something I've done but I've seen expandable foam sprayed up into the ends of a canoe. same result but a bit more permanent
That is why I did not do the foam. I did not want a permanent solution. Great for a canoe where you are not using the ends. Wish I had thought of that when I had my canoe!
@@KayakhacksFishing agreed. Don't think I'd do it to a kayak but in the end of the canoe it was a good thing. I guess a canoe is easier to fill with water too.
"You tube is sending me a message..." 😅🤣😂😂
You should check out the TH-cam video of a Hobie Pro Angler 14 with an Expandacraft outrigger kit on it. If I were going offshore, I'd put an outrigger on both sides. Expandacraft has more than twice the volume as the Hobie outrigger.
I will - thanks
Great video! I was thinking about making a similar one as I’ve stuffed my kayak with noodles as well. Mainly to keep stuff from sliding way down the hull where I can’t reach it, but also some peace of mind of the worst case happened. I wonder if plastic bottles would have a similar effect.
I think the bottles would work well.
im wondering if the plastic air pockets you get inside delivery packages might be useful?you know the type to stop your contents from moving around in the box??
I think anything light will work. Good idea
Im thinking I would want something a bit more rugged.
You can get blocks of foam stick in the the kayak .
Good point!
I was watching your videos what about put 2 long blew up tubes on front and back and out the other tube u had in the middle
That would work. Anything you can fill the inside with that adds floatation!
Awesome info
Why not blocks of styrofoam ? Fore and aft .....
That would work
Im thinking about adding Liquid closed cell foam I watched a guy who did this for his sea Kayak and it worked. I m using pool noodles and a kids air up ball from Walmart right now.
Sounds good!
Great safety suggestions made here.
Hey it's 10:31pm for me in Australia Queensland
What do you think about inflatable beach balls? You know the colorful ones? I've been thinking of using those in my kayak.
Sure, those would work. Just make sure they stay inflated. It is a really good idea since they can conform to the inside.
Great Idea Steve. I wonder if your floatation would improve even more if you seal some of the pool noodles. Leave enough open to drain but seal the rest. Do they make solid ones? On my whitewater canoe I use rubber air bladders to displace the water - they work great.
I have never seen a sealed noodle. They all have the hole down the middle. After buying 30 of them, an air bladder might have been cheaper! I always wanted to get one for my canoe for my river floats but never did... nothing above class 2.
nice video and thanks for sharing is there a way toseal the hatches to prevent water from getting in
Not really. You depend on whatever the manufacturer provides
Has anyone tried stuffing old PFD into the hull? You'd think if you could get one on each end you'd be good?
I do not think a PFD or two would provide enough lift.