For anyone in the UK, massive recommend for Halfords white rattlecan primer. If you shake that thing for a good few minutes you can get a zenithal highlight that is very smooth with almost zero speckling.
Only thing to watch out for if you're buying rattle cans meant for vehicles like cars is if they are the correct type you're looking for, as I brought one before I thought was green but didn't realise it was a green lacquer (the can just said it left a satin finish), which didn't ruin what I wanted to do but rather just meant the colour didn't show well and left a gloss finish.
The channel: Geek gaming scenics (Lukes APS) - Luke has a solid tutorial for using rattle cans. The big takeaway that has help me reduce speckled texture is to ensure the cans are warm before spraying. Partially submerge them in warm water for several minutes before using. And then of course shake well. When you think you’ve shaken enough, shake some more.
Defo - was looking for this comment... and bathing in warm water for a few minutes apparently really helps (the can... not yourself ...unless you’re stressed about painting!)
While its not white, I find the wraithbone rattlecan is my go to for zenithal priming. Pretty much every model I do these days is black followed by wraithbone. Gives the highlights of a white without being as harsh as the pure white of other cans and it doesn't (in my experience) speckle and texture. And its coverage is awesome so a relatively expensive can lasts ages as you don't need to many sweeps for the effect.
If you like that color but want to switch to airbrush, I highly recommend Titan Buff from Golden's High Flow Acrylics line. It's almost exactly the same color and has the same satin finish.
Vallejo rattle can primer paints are wonderful! I started working on my first painting project today after watching 100 TH-cam videos. It's an awesome The Last of Us 3D print I got on Etsy. I used Vallejo black spray with a white zenithal on top and it turned out perfect. Almost zero texture from the spray. And you even get two nozzles with it - standard and fine. The project is already coming out so good, I'm excited!
I find Tamiya white fine surface primer in a rattle can to go on very smoothly- the can sprays a very fine mist in a controlled way and the nozzle is easier to finesse, almost like an airbrush.
Man, your facecam brought back the memories of Mitch Hedberg for me! "I think Bigfoot is blurry, that's the problem. It's not the photographer's fault. Bigfoot is blurry, and that's extra scary to me. There's a large, out-of-focus monster roaming the countryside. Run, he's fuzzy, get out of here."
Drybrushing grey seer is my go to for preshading for contrast paints. Spaying from above leaves to much black for contrast paints, brushing lets me get the right amount for how dark/bright I want the end result to be.
One thing that's worked well for me without an airbrush is to prime grey with a rattlecan, do a black wash to give some shadow and then a light white drybrush. Saying that I tend to layer with acrylics and haven't had much improvement using a zenithal. If anything I find the white difficult to paint over. The best use of zenithal highlighting I've seen is with an airbrush and then using transparent layers on top, eg inks or contrast. For me using acrylics I've always thought it just looks like tinged grey.
It sounds like you're not thinning enough. With a medium to thin, I've had lovely results glazing over a zenithal, just use a paper towel to take off most of the thin paint. Dana Howl has a good tutorial for glazing with acrylics. Agree with you on the light drybrush too as i prime with a can too.
Do you find that method better than just airbrushing your basecoat? As I start to use my airbrush I was debating whether to do a zenithal or just use it to do my base army color (or even zenithal in my base army color with a shade).
The pa-chow is strong in this one! Good vid, Uncle Atom. I mostly have grey primer, so what I sometimes do, is prime grey, give it a black wash and white drybrush. It's an extra step, but if you don't have airbrush or the right rattle cans at hand, it's an option.
Started doing zenithal highlighting after watching the streams and your cursed city skeletons video. I don't have the room currently for an airbrush unfortunately, but even just dry brushing has helped me improve my painting so much. So many thanks!
This whole camera setup, the background being in the focus on it's own made me subscribe. This is some unique content with knowledge behind it, can't wait to check out your other videos.
I commend you for just uploading this footage out of focus. It can be incredibly frustrating when that happens, but I just needed the information, and you present it very well.
I use the drybrush zenithal method but add in a heavy drybrush of a dark grey and then a light grey before the white. Makes for a longer process but I like the smoother transition that results and still faster than a "regular" non-zenithal paint job.
What I'm gathering is that there is no perfect, objectively best method of applying the zenithal highlight. The three methods all have strengths and weaknesses, both for practical purposes and for artistic ones.
Honestly, the only downside to airbrush priming is that you have to own an airbrush and need a place to use it. I use the airbrush method 95% of the time - it gives me the best results. Thanks for watching!
Wow, the 1st minute of this vid was basically the questions I had... thanks for the good explanation, imma try this next hopefully it'll make my next minis pop even more! 😊
I can't believe, it just undercoated my batch of mini's with this method yesterday. I used a cheap airbrush compressor combo (65.00 GBP). Medieval type figs so went with brown base (Lots of brown stuff about in the medieval era) then the recommend white high lite. Been following you for a while and been wanting to give it a go. Really wish I had done a while ago. Gonna have to strip those Stormtroopers :-) Cannot wait for the next video. Cheers
😄 I saw the disclaimer and thought, "OK, whatever." As soon as you came on screen, I was still surprised by how out of focus you were. Great video, despite the blurry face. 👍
Totally agree adam, a zenithal can really be any color. For my genestealer cults, I used a zenithal of black to Russ grey to Russ grey plus a little white ink. This set up my blue armour for the army and created a great base coat for some contrast paints. Gulliman flesh and magos purple made quick work of the skin tones on the various types of cultists. Can't imagine starting a project without a zenithal prime.
My favorite lizardmen paint job ever used a jade ink over black for a zenithal. Then I glazed the darker green very thinly over the zenithal. They turned out awesome.
I do something similar to zenithal priming eith my vehicles where I'll prime them turquoise/green then spray the top and back with a blue, the very tips of the front yellow and then use a turquoise glaze to bind it all together.
Thank you i think you just saved me from getting an airbrush at least for now. I've been looking high and low for a high contrast highlight as they don't seem to be popular but I'm doing a unit like the Angels of Death blood angel series and I want that grim realism, futuristic high contrast look for them..like they are in a shadowy grim apocalyptic setting not the medieval its high noon wartime look which seems to be standard. I've been really interested in dry brushing for a while. Thanks for the tips!
I use Krylon White primer for my Bad Moonz Orks, and the yellow I use is liqutex basics primary yellow in one coat. I heat the can up in as hot as the tap will give me water in a cup for 15-20 minutes before I spray. Never had an issue with too thick of a coat or the odd texture white primers will have sometimes (I have had that issue myself in the past). I also use a garden stake and double sided tape to prime minis on, I can get the vast majority of my priming done in one go with those
i really like Kyrlon Colormaxx and Fusion range.. Flat White, Satin Ivory and Eggshell is what I use. used a lot of the other colors as a basecoat also
I recently zenithaled all of Cursed City. Chaos black and seer grey. (About the same as tamiya grey primer) My plan is to mainly use contrast paint. The grey seer is hard to control tho as it’s a bit like using a firehose. But this avoids the pebbles of corax white.
Your videos offer much more than just the visuals and you never miss a Friday (here Friday Arvo - Aussie for Afternoon) More power to ya .. love your work !!
Really appreciate this video and all the pros and cons for each technique. I'm going to explore each of these and find an example of where I can use each one 😊
The Citadel Contrast primers are both pretty good about speckling. They’re both off white, but I live in Texas where humidity is always a factor (every day of the year). It sprays on pretty well without speckling. Ultimately, I mostly use airbrushes these days (humidity, again), but occasionally I’ll bust out Grey Seer or Wraithbone rattle cans.
I’ve tried zenith all highlighting with rattle cans and dry brush and didn’t love the look or the process. I really think airbrushing is the way to go to get smooth finishes, but I don’t have one. I’ll just try it again when I get a set up
I just used the makeup brush method to zenithal highlight some bloodbowl minis last week, worked pretty well though I did find some spots the paint seemed to REALLY build up quick. I'm assuming maybe I had too much paint on the brush still. Overall they turned out well enough, I like this method because it gives just enough guidelines and highlights to the highest areas of the mini while keeping everything else darker. I do very much agree with the harder to reach areas though, I need to get a way smaller brush for those lol. One thing I tried (and possibly goofed on) was thinning a little of my paint before my gf drybrushed her flesh golem. It made the whole model almost grey and didn't do a good job highlighting I don't think.
I only use Stynyl Rez primer with an airbrush. After priming with rattle cans and getting the "spots" I switched. The Stynyl Rez looks so good with the airbrush.
I'm an artist by trade. Miniature painters, if you don't know anything about art, look up how lights and shadows work on different surfaces in regular art. Look up the matte and shiny colorful ball examples, look up the diagrams with the eggs, learn about ambient occlusion. Your shading/highlighting will improve leaps and bounds.
Thank you for the direction. Sometimes I find traditional art stuff intimidating. Do you any good tutorial videos or series that give good breakdowns of concepts?
Great video. It helped me out. I was using spray can primer and it was coming out spotty. I thought I was doing something wrong. Good to know it is normal.
I have used vallejos white primer rattlecan and it comes on pretty smoothly but I shake the can first than put it in warm water (not hot) for 5 min and shake the can again before using it.
I think in alot of situations a light grey is better than white because I find them to be slightly thinner and it allows you to just simply spray the very tips of models white, creating a greater blend of shade compared to the grey created as a consequence of the white blending with the black.
Gotta tell ya, guys. I have a nice Iwata airbrush and compressor that sits in the corner of my room, basically untouched for a year now. Why? I grabbed one (then two!) of those $80 battery operated cordless airbrushes on Amazon, and they're REALLY solid for most of what we do in miniature painting. There's no setup, it just sits there on my hobby table and I grab it on a whim, and never have cords and compressors and stuff all over the place. *ESPECIALLY* if you don't have an airbrush, IMO, they're all you need. Disclaimer: I know there are several types out there on Amazon, but the "Autolock Upgraded Kit" is a really amazing piece of hardware for the price. If you're new to it, also drop like $10 on one of those 21 piece kits with the 3 sized nozzles, cleaners, etc... The extra bittles are nice to have around.
Have you tried the army painter white rattle can? I always use the “army-size” white primer on my zenithal priming space marines or clone troopers and zombies. For me it always works perfectly fine
I usually do a combination of rattlecan and drybrush. The trick is to spray just a very light dusting with the rattlecan, to avoid the mini ending up too withe, as you say. You can then finish withening it up with the drybrush up to the level you wanted.
I think you just wanted to make sure we saw that YoutTube play button in the background super in focus ;). Jokes aside, this was super useful to me. I'm just getting started and wanted to know how to do the highlighting. I feel way more confident in trying it now.
One problem I have with this is it leaves a grainy texture, even with an airbrush. Especially with thicker paints. I've been working on diluting a white ink heavily to get it as transparent and thin as I can, but it's still not perfect. Still not gotten a method that's as good as just tinting shadows and highlights afterward with a brush. But I also do this just for the enjoyment of painting rather than predominantly for game use. I didn't think about the drybrush method for doing this. I actually use dry brushing, stippling and feathering with makeup brushes a lot, but never thought about it for a zenithal highlight.
I'm always happy to watch your Friday videos, out of focus or not. But you could have modulated the voice and call it 'The confessions of anonymous zenithal primer' :D
Nice video. tbh, I've just started painting up 2 Napoleonic armies in 2mm scale, and a white drybrush over black really helps the details stand out.....not that 2mm is ever going to need blending over zenithal, but i think the principle is similar.
@@TheSzybas umm...I'm not sure how to do that buddy, but I can certainly try. TBH, 2mm is SO easy to paint it feels like cheating. (I did two napoleonic armies in about a week).
Seems like camera wanted to send us a message... Perhaps we should head out to shelter. Zenithal priming is good especially when painting using glazes/contrast paints. I usually do it, but in some situations I paint with too many layers that cover it completely which makes it kind of pointless. As long as layers are thin zenithal is a way to go.
Already mentioned, but for white primer out or a can: Tamiya Fine surface primer (also comes in grey, black and pink). I'll lead off with the disadvantages: 1. being a hobby product it's quite expensive for the volume 2. it's a lacquer so needs to be treated with respect. Outdoors or with good protection equipment. I think the Rustoleum is an enamel. 3. It's so smooth that contrast paints won't stick Which segues to the advantage: it's really, really smooth and thin because it has really fine pigments (which is the point of a lacquer in hobby products).
White is a hard color to use in paint. Worked at a small chemical company and white coatings/paint had at most a 6 month shelf life before they went weird.
One of the things I've stolen from Vince, is when I want to push the zenithal to the next level I do an airbrush zenithal, do an all over wash, then drybrush with white or off white. When I teach people how to paint, washing then dry brushing wizkids models is how I start most of the time.
Dana Howl has some good videos with a similar technique, followed by heavy glaze painting. Unfortunately I haven't figured how to not instantly lose my zenithal prep while trying to get smooth paint coverage.
Funny I got notified about you other video but not about this one. Just notice when I went to your channel. Thank you for this video. As it helped explain alot.
sorry to be the citadel/games workshop fanboy but their rattlecans all the way. I went from using one of the standard rustoleum ones to GW's and they are all so silky smooth by comparison. No flaking, no obscured detail, absolutely wonderful.
I actually combine the airbrush and drybrush methods Uncle Atom explained. I zenithal prime with an airbrush, then use a dark wash on the model, drybrush for highlights and then use glaze paints.
Would be interesting to try this with contrast paints. For example if I use Gray Seer as a primer should I use white for zenithal or Black and then zenithal Grey Seer.
I would never had thought of the drybrush technique, thanks!! I got an airbrush as a gift, I am never ever touching again a rattlecan spray, I loathe them.
rattle can tip for you. Soak your cans in a container of really warm water. not scalding hot, so you can still stick your hand in in. let them sit in there for a good 10-15 minutes plus. What this does is it increases the pressure and makes the paint atomize better, leading to a smoother coat. I few light coats and then you can paint some normal coats. Just don't go heavy on there unless you think it might be called for as you get near the end,
Tamiya fine white primer has always been my go-to, done many a zenithal with it and I've yet to have any sputtering from the can. The downside is the size and cost, unfortunately.
Cracking video Uncle A :) been painting up some Sisters and wanted to use a really bright pink, with the zenithall highlighting I noticed I was only getting a really bright on the top of the mini, when I really wanted it to be on the front armour to really emphasise that these are PINK! so decided to put more white down on the front of the model and now they pop so much more. So its worth experimenting with coverage and colours I went for Vallejo Mecha White as its really glossy and the Pink is so much brighter, all this using an airbrush. BTW if you squint you dont notice your out of focus ;)
Dry brushing tip from Opus. Don't drybrush with a paper towel, it'll remove properties of the paint and you get a much harsher textured effect. Instead wipe it on a dry rubber pallet or something similar to remove most of the paint.
Looked this up right before I was going to do a zenithal coat with a spray can. Instead, I'm gonna go buy a cheap makeup brush to drybrush on some white in downward strokes. Thanks!
What I started doing is not using white for the zenithal, but rather a bone colour or ivory. This can then be drybrushed with white for highlights within the highlights.
That's basically what i'm doing with my airbrush. Currently with my raven guard army, I use a black primer, then another coat of army painter matt black, then a first "large" zenithal with a very dark blue, and next a lighter blue hue, more focused.
Despite having an airbrush, and having used it on scale models, I suck at zenithal priming/highlighting. I always seem to put too much paint down at any angle!
Hi Adam, When using the Zenithal Technique, instead of using White Acrylic Paint, is it ok to DryBrush with White/Grey Surface Primer Paint (i.e., Vallejo Surface Primer or Stynylrez)?
Funny. I have more of a problem with “chunky” effects from my airbrush than from a “rattle” can. I generally hate pulling out my airbrush and only really use it on stuff like tanks or terrain- or if I wanna use a wash/contrast paint on a whole army like with Necrons or Nighthaunts.
question? can you do this technique. with a super dark silver metallic and a light silver metallic? and then paint it with contrast paints to get like different metals?
It's Okay Atom, I had a few beers before watching, couldn't tell the difference
🤔
Similarly, if he hadn't said anything, I would have assumed I needed new glasses.
Often just listening to you. So its ok. In the footage, that shows the minis, the video is crisp. So everything is ok.
Just took my glasses off
I really like the look of that doorknob, had never had a good view of it before, thanks!
Lol, what a doorknob, those little details, amazing.
The doorknob was caught in 4k lol
yeah that really is a nice doorknob.
For anyone in the UK, massive recommend for Halfords white rattlecan primer. If you shake that thing for a good few minutes you can get a zenithal highlight that is very smooth with almost zero speckling.
oooh thanks, been looking for a good primer, i'll give it a go
@@fuzzlemacfuzz No worries. It's decent value too at about 7 quid a can.
Only thing to watch out for if you're buying rattle cans meant for vehicles like cars is if they are the correct type you're looking for, as I brought one before I thought was green but didn't realise it was a green lacquer (the can just said it left a satin finish), which didn't ruin what I wanted to do but rather just meant the colour didn't show well and left a gloss finish.
The halfords matt Black rattlecan and their grey primer are also excellent
@@gurtwurz Indeed. I've been using their black and white cans to the exclusion of all else for a while now.
That’s a beautiful lamp you’ve got there!
The channel: Geek gaming scenics (Lukes APS) - Luke has a solid tutorial for using rattle cans. The big takeaway that has help me reduce speckled texture is to ensure the cans are warm before spraying. Partially submerge them in warm water for several minutes before using. And then of course shake well. When you think you’ve shaken enough, shake some more.
Yep. I live in Arizona so i have another added benefit, alot of sun. I leave my cans outside for awhile and those get nice and toasty warm
I saw this and can confirm a vast improvement in my priming
Defo - was looking for this comment... and bathing in warm water for a few minutes apparently really helps (the can... not yourself ...unless you’re stressed about painting!)
Marco Frisoni has a great tutorial on using spray paint on minis as well.
There’s no such thing as “cheating”. It’s all technique.
My ex-wife… didn’t agree with this assertion…
While its not white, I find the wraithbone rattlecan is my go to for zenithal priming. Pretty much every model I do these days is black followed by wraithbone. Gives the highlights of a white without being as harsh as the pure white of other cans and it doesn't (in my experience) speckle and texture. And its coverage is awesome so a relatively expensive can lasts ages as you don't need to many sweeps for the effect.
I like a good color specific zenithal, I'll put wraithbone on the list. I'll want to try shooting through an airbrush too.
All hail wraithbone rattlecan master race
Yeah, really it only seems expensive, per oz it’s right there with testors or Tamiya/mr hobby, Montana paint, etc.
If you like that color but want to switch to airbrush, I highly recommend Titan Buff from Golden's High Flow Acrylics line. It's almost exactly the same color and has the same satin finish.
@@beezany Excellent recommendation, I use Golden as the pigment base for much of my screen printing inks. Cheers!
I'm in the UK and I took the advice to get an airbrush. Couldn't be happier. Now I can prime over the winter indoors! Thank you TT Minions!
It’s over two years old but I have to know what is a good airbrush primer ?
Vallejo rattle can primer paints are wonderful!
I started working on my first painting project today after watching 100 TH-cam videos. It's an awesome The Last of Us 3D print I got on Etsy. I used Vallejo black spray with a white zenithal on top and it turned out perfect. Almost zero texture from the spray. And you even get two nozzles with it - standard and fine.
The project is already coming out so good, I'm excited!
I find Tamiya white fine surface primer in a rattle can to go on very smoothly- the can sprays a very fine mist in a controlled way and the nozzle is easier to finesse, almost like an airbrush.
Ditto
Man, your facecam brought back the memories of Mitch Hedberg for me! "I think Bigfoot is blurry, that's the problem. It's not the photographer's fault. Bigfoot is blurry, and that's extra scary to me. There's a large, out-of-focus monster roaming the countryside. Run, he's fuzzy, get out of here."
Drybrushing grey seer is my go to for preshading for contrast paints. Spaying from above leaves to much black for contrast paints, brushing lets me get the right amount for how dark/bright I want the end result to be.
One thing that's worked well for me without an airbrush is to prime grey with a rattlecan, do a black wash to give some shadow and then a light white drybrush.
Saying that I tend to layer with acrylics and haven't had much improvement using a zenithal. If anything I find the white difficult to paint over. The best use of zenithal highlighting I've seen is with an airbrush and then using transparent layers on top, eg inks or contrast. For me using acrylics I've always thought it just looks like tinged grey.
It sounds like you're not thinning enough. With a medium to thin, I've had lovely results glazing over a zenithal, just use a paper towel to take off most of the thin paint. Dana Howl has a good tutorial for glazing with acrylics.
Agree with you on the light drybrush too as i prime with a can too.
Do you find that method better than just airbrushing your basecoat? As I start to use my airbrush I was debating whether to do a zenithal or just use it to do my base army color (or even zenithal in my base army color with a shade).
The pa-chow is strong in this one! Good vid, Uncle Atom.
I mostly have grey primer, so what I sometimes do, is prime grey, give it a black wash and white drybrush. It's an extra step, but if you don't have airbrush or the right rattle cans at hand, it's an option.
Started doing zenithal highlighting after watching the streams and your cursed city skeletons video. I don't have the room currently for an airbrush unfortunately, but even just dry brushing has helped me improve my painting so much. So many thanks!
This whole camera setup, the background being in the focus on it's own made me subscribe.
This is some unique content with knowledge behind it, can't wait to check out your other videos.
I commend you for just uploading this footage out of focus. It can be incredibly frustrating when that happens, but I just needed the information, and you present it very well.
I use the drybrush zenithal method but add in a heavy drybrush of a dark grey and then a light grey before the white. Makes for a longer process but I like the smoother transition that results and still faster than a "regular" non-zenithal paint job.
Cool ! Do you have a référence video or any tutorial ?
What I'm gathering is that there is no perfect, objectively best method of applying the zenithal highlight. The three methods all have strengths and weaknesses, both for practical purposes and for artistic ones.
Honestly, the only downside to airbrush priming is that you have to own an airbrush and need a place to use it. I use the airbrush method 95% of the time - it gives me the best results. Thanks for watching!
Wow, the 1st minute of this vid was basically the questions I had... thanks for the good explanation, imma try this next hopefully it'll make my next minis pop even more! 😊
I can't believe, it just undercoated my batch of mini's with this method yesterday. I used a cheap airbrush compressor combo (65.00 GBP). Medieval type figs so went with brown base (Lots of brown stuff about in the medieval era) then the recommend white high lite. Been following you for a while and been wanting to give it a go. Really wish I had done a while ago. Gonna have to strip those Stormtroopers :-) Cannot wait for the next video. Cheers
😄 I saw the disclaimer and thought, "OK, whatever." As soon as you came on screen, I was still surprised by how out of focus you were. Great video, despite the blurry face. 👍
Totally agree adam, a zenithal can really be any color.
For my genestealer cults, I used a zenithal of black to Russ grey to Russ grey plus a little white ink.
This set up my blue armour for the army and created a great base coat for some contrast paints.
Gulliman flesh and magos purple made quick work of the skin tones on the various types of cultists.
Can't imagine starting a project without a zenithal prime.
Zenith. It's the new "prime directive". Thank you.
make it so
My favorite lizardmen paint job ever used a jade ink over black for a zenithal. Then I glazed the darker green very thinly over the zenithal. They turned out awesome.
I do something similar to zenithal priming eith my vehicles where I'll prime them turquoise/green then spray the top and back with a blue, the very tips of the front yellow and then use a turquoise glaze to bind it all together.
I enjoy the dark look of the drybrushed priming though i use a small wedged brush for that extra bit of precision
Thank you i think you just saved me from getting an airbrush at least for now. I've been looking high and low for a high contrast highlight as they don't seem to be popular but I'm doing a unit like the Angels of Death blood angel series and I want that grim realism, futuristic high contrast look for them..like they are in a shadowy grim apocalyptic setting not the medieval its high noon wartime look which seems to be standard. I've been really interested in dry brushing for a while. Thanks for the tips!
would not have thought of using a make up brush/dry brush for Zenithal method! Thanks for sharing Uncle Atom!!
Back to this video a year later for priming tips and mesmerized by the VERY interesting lights in the back corner
I use Krylon White primer for my Bad Moonz Orks, and the yellow I use is liqutex basics primary yellow in one coat. I heat the can up in as hot as the tap will give me water in a cup for 15-20 minutes before I spray. Never had an issue with too thick of a coat or the odd texture white primers will have sometimes (I have had that issue myself in the past). I also use a garden stake and double sided tape to prime minis on, I can get the vast majority of my priming done in one go with those
Great stuff. Zenithal has become my standard, especially when doing models with a lot of exposed flesh. Really helps to see the light/shadows. Cheers!
i really like Kyrlon Colormaxx and Fusion range.. Flat White, Satin Ivory and Eggshell is what I use. used a lot of the other colors as a basecoat also
I'm here for the dulcet tones of your voice, not the eye candy anyway
I recently zenithaled all of Cursed City. Chaos black and seer grey. (About the same as tamiya grey primer) My plan is to mainly use contrast paint. The grey seer is hard to control tho as it’s a bit like using a firehose. But this avoids the pebbles of corax white.
Your videos offer much more than just the visuals and you never miss a Friday (here Friday Arvo - Aussie for Afternoon) More power to ya .. love your work !!
Really appreciate this video and all the pros and cons for each technique. I'm going to explore each of these and find an example of where I can use each one 😊
The Citadel Contrast primers are both pretty good about speckling. They’re both off white, but I live in Texas where humidity is always a factor (every day of the year). It sprays on pretty well without speckling.
Ultimately, I mostly use airbrushes these days (humidity, again), but occasionally I’ll bust out Grey Seer or Wraithbone rattle cans.
I’ve tried zenith all highlighting with rattle cans and dry brush and didn’t love the look or the process. I really think airbrushing is the way to go to get smooth finishes, but I don’t have one. I’ll just try it again when I get a set up
I just used the makeup brush method to zenithal highlight some bloodbowl minis last week, worked pretty well though I did find some spots the paint seemed to REALLY build up quick. I'm assuming maybe I had too much paint on the brush still. Overall they turned out well enough, I like this method because it gives just enough guidelines and highlights to the highest areas of the mini while keeping everything else darker.
I do very much agree with the harder to reach areas though, I need to get a way smaller brush for those lol. One thing I tried (and possibly goofed on) was thinning a little of my paint before my gf drybrushed her flesh golem. It made the whole model almost grey and didn't do a good job highlighting I don't think.
Army Painter White rattlecan has been really smooth for me. And has been less affected by Houston’s typical 90% humidity
I only use Stynyl Rez primer with an airbrush. After priming with rattle cans and getting the "spots" I switched. The Stynyl Rez looks so good with the airbrush.
I'm an artist by trade. Miniature painters, if you don't know anything about art, look up how lights and shadows work on different surfaces in regular art. Look up the matte and shiny colorful ball examples, look up the diagrams with the eggs, learn about ambient occlusion. Your shading/highlighting will improve leaps and bounds.
Thank you for the direction. Sometimes I find traditional art stuff intimidating. Do you any good tutorial videos or series that give good breakdowns of concepts?
Great video. It helped me out. I was using spray can primer and it was coming out spotty. I thought I was doing something wrong. Good to know it is normal.
I have used vallejos white primer rattlecan and it comes on pretty smoothly but I shake the can first than put it in warm water (not hot) for 5 min and shake the can again before using it.
I think in alot of situations a light grey is better than white because I find them to be slightly thinner and it allows you to just simply spray the very tips of models white, creating a greater blend of shade compared to the grey created as a consequence of the white blending with the black.
Really helpful video breaking down the three techniques. I found the dry brush part really good.
Gotta tell ya, guys. I have a nice Iwata airbrush and compressor that sits in the corner of my room, basically untouched for a year now. Why? I grabbed one (then two!) of those $80 battery operated cordless airbrushes on Amazon, and they're REALLY solid for most of what we do in miniature painting.
There's no setup, it just sits there on my hobby table and I grab it on a whim, and never have cords and compressors and stuff all over the place.
*ESPECIALLY* if you don't have an airbrush, IMO, they're all you need.
Disclaimer: I know there are several types out there on Amazon, but the "Autolock Upgraded Kit" is a really amazing piece of hardware for the price. If you're new to it, also drop like $10 on one of those 21 piece kits with the 3 sized nozzles, cleaners, etc... The extra bittles are nice to have around.
I need to try this make-up brush technique. Also, get some contrast paints.
Hey, the visuals may be out of focus but the audio is outstanding!! Thanks for the vid!
The blurry man is right!
Have you tried the army painter white rattle can? I always use the “army-size” white primer on my zenithal priming space marines or clone troopers and zombies. For me it always works perfectly fine
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is the only white spray primer that works, though I have switched to an airbursh.
You are 5he best. No worries on the focus. Super appreciate you and the channel. Thanks for all you do.
Love that lamp, another great vid!
I love the soft focus it's like watching Doris Day
I usually do a combination of rattlecan and drybrush. The trick is to spray just a very light dusting with the rattlecan, to avoid the mini ending up too withe, as you say. You can then finish withening it up with the drybrush up to the level you wanted.
I think you just wanted to make sure we saw that YoutTube play button in the background super in focus ;).
Jokes aside, this was super useful to me. I'm just getting started and wanted to know how to do the highlighting. I feel way more confident in trying it now.
One problem I have with this is it leaves a grainy texture, even with an airbrush. Especially with thicker paints. I've been working on diluting a white ink heavily to get it as transparent and thin as I can, but it's still not perfect. Still not gotten a method that's as good as just tinting shadows and highlights afterward with a brush. But I also do this just for the enjoyment of painting rather than predominantly for game use. I didn't think about the drybrush method for doing this. I actually use dry brushing, stippling and feathering with makeup brushes a lot, but never thought about it for a zenithal highlight.
I'm always happy to watch your Friday videos, out of focus or not. But you could have modulated the voice and call it 'The confessions of anonymous zenithal primer' :D
Lol brilliant
Nice video. tbh, I've just started painting up 2 Napoleonic armies in 2mm scale, and a white drybrush over black really helps the details stand out.....not that 2mm is ever going to need blending over zenithal, but i think the principle is similar.
2mm scale? Wow... Can you share examples of unpainted and painted minis here?
@@TheSzybas umm...I'm not sure how to do that buddy, but I can certainly try. TBH, 2mm is SO easy to paint it feels like cheating. (I did two napoleonic armies in about a week).
Seems like camera wanted to send us a message... Perhaps we should head out to shelter. Zenithal priming is good especially when painting using glazes/contrast paints. I usually do it, but in some situations I paint with too many layers that cover it completely which makes it kind of pointless. As long as layers are thin zenithal is a way to go.
Agreed. I always do zenithal + contrast on mobs or hordes.
Already mentioned, but for white primer out or a can: Tamiya Fine surface primer (also comes in grey, black and pink).
I'll lead off with the disadvantages:
1. being a hobby product it's quite expensive for the volume
2. it's a lacquer so needs to be treated with respect. Outdoors or with good protection equipment. I think the Rustoleum is an enamel.
3. It's so smooth that contrast paints won't stick
Which segues to the advantage: it's really, really smooth and thin because it has really fine pigments (which is the point of a lacquer in hobby products).
Can’t wait to see next week’s video 😁
White is a hard color to use in paint. Worked at a small chemical company and white coatings/paint had at most a 6 month shelf life before they went weird.
The cam is actually focused.... this is actually my marvelous eyes trying to understand without glasses what is 5 meters away
One of the things I've stolen from Vince, is when I want to push the zenithal to the next level I do an airbrush zenithal, do an all over wash, then drybrush with white or off white. When I teach people how to paint, washing then dry brushing wizkids models is how I start most of the time.
Dana Howl has some good videos with a similar technique, followed by heavy glaze painting. Unfortunately I haven't figured how to not instantly lose my zenithal prep while trying to get smooth paint coverage.
Funny I got notified about you other video but not about this one. Just notice when I went to your channel. Thank you for this video. As it helped explain alot.
Loved getting to see you airbrush some models! 👍
I was just researching this. Thanks for the vid
sorry to be the citadel/games workshop fanboy but their rattlecans all the way. I went from using one of the standard rustoleum ones to GW's and they are all so silky smooth by comparison. No flaking, no obscured detail, absolutely wonderful.
I actually combine the airbrush and drybrush methods Uncle Atom explained. I zenithal prime with an airbrush, then use a dark wash on the model, drybrush for highlights and then use glaze paints.
Would be interesting to try this with contrast paints. For example if I use Gray Seer as a primer should I use white for zenithal or Black and then zenithal Grey Seer.
For the most contrast, first use black (or another pretty dark colour), then grey seer. You could finish that with a little white from the very top.
I would never had thought of the drybrush technique, thanks!!
I got an airbrush as a gift, I am never ever touching again a rattlecan spray, I loathe them.
Thanks Atom, never thought of drybrush working as a zenithal. +5int for mentioning that the zenithal doesn't have to be white too.
Totally agree!
I think it was Miniac that did a video a while back about using different colors to zenithal. Might be worth a watch for you.
On the bright side, your set looks awesome.
Citadel Wraithbone is a good rattle can white option. It is pretty smooth for a white.
rattle can tip for you. Soak your cans in a container of really warm water. not scalding hot, so you can still stick your hand in in. let them sit in there for a good 10-15 minutes plus. What this does is it increases the pressure and makes the paint atomize better, leading to a smoother coat. I few light coats and then you can paint some normal coats. Just don't go heavy on there unless you think it might be called for as you get near the end,
Tamiya fine white primer has always been my go-to, done many a zenithal with it and I've yet to have any sputtering from the can. The downside is the size and cost, unfortunately.
It’s also difficult to find, at least in my area. I’ve only used it once, I think. I should find it again. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions ah availability can be a bit sporadic here as well. When I see it I often stock up on a few. The Grey's are also excellent.
Cracking video Uncle A :) been painting up some Sisters and wanted to use a really bright pink, with the zenithall highlighting I noticed I was only getting a really bright on the top of the mini, when I really wanted it to be on the front armour to really emphasise that these are PINK! so decided to put more white down on the front of the model and now they pop so much more. So its worth experimenting with coverage and colours I went for Vallejo Mecha White as its really glossy and the Pink is so much brighter, all this using an airbrush.
BTW if you squint you dont notice your out of focus ;)
Dry brushing tip from Opus. Don't drybrush with a paper towel, it'll remove properties of the paint and you get a much harsher textured effect. Instead wipe it on a dry rubber pallet or something similar to remove most of the paint.
those 3 lights in the back are looking better than ever
Looked this up right before I was going to do a zenithal coat with a spray can. Instead, I'm gonna go buy a cheap makeup brush to drybrush on some white in downward strokes. Thanks!
What I started doing is not using white for the zenithal, but rather a bone colour or ivory. This can then be drybrushed with white for highlights within the highlights.
Vallejo White primer is awesome. It doesn’t leave the grain, and looks in a same way as a black one in terms of texture
People appreciate my zenithal primed minis more than my grey plastic when playing. They also are my commitment to actually painting them.
just in time. saw this 2 min before trying zenithal with rattle can. thanks!
I’m think I’m going to try this out on some terrain. Thanks for the video!
i woke up with a massive hangover. I couldn't tell either way . J/K. still great work.
That's basically what i'm doing with my airbrush. Currently with my raven guard army, I use a black primer, then another coat of army painter matt black, then a first "large" zenithal with a very dark blue, and next a lighter blue hue, more focused.
"In this video uncle Adam show us how he sees the world without his glasses. And how you will see the world when you're 40 and older! " ;)
I'm 43 years old... the above statement is spot on.
Bifocals since I was 40.
@@bopaintsminis same
Joke's on you! I'm in my early 30s, and my eyes have been garbage for years!
@@Bluecho4 Oh yeah? Well I paint by Braille!
Highly recommend Vallejo Hobby Paint as a white rattle can paint
And also to do that just to se all the detiles to pop out so you can plan what to paint!
Despite having an airbrush, and having used it on scale models, I suck at zenithal priming/highlighting. I always seem to put too much paint down at any angle!
Hi Adam, When using the Zenithal Technique, instead of using White Acrylic Paint, is it ok to DryBrush with White/Grey Surface Primer Paint (i.e., Vallejo Surface Primer or Stynylrez)?
Sure, it should work. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions Thank you for your time and reply. Wishing you well.
Funny. I have more of a problem with “chunky” effects from my airbrush than from a “rattle” can. I generally hate pulling out my airbrush and only really use it on stuff like tanks or terrain- or if I wanna use a wash/contrast paint on a whole army like with Necrons or Nighthaunts.
It's cool dude. They Don't all have to be Bangers.
It's a handy priming method if your painting with inks
question? can you do this technique. with a super dark silver metallic and a light silver metallic? and then paint it with contrast paints to get like different metals?
I love the same informational energy that reminds me of Dana Howl