Comments are hilarious. This is not a Condo in FL..... It's a frickin' garage.... Nice work.... I have done a few slabs and my work is a joke compared to the efforts here. And some are 20 years old with no issues. Nice content, very educational, and a chick on the team to boot. Awesome....
Wire mesh is the most ineffective slab reinforcements one could use. I removed a slab I placed 30 years ago and almost all of the mesh was rusted and corroded. The only good thing was that it made it easier to demo. Pulling up on the mesh is pointless when the finishers step right into the concrete afterwards, pushing it back down to the ground. The best reinforcement is #4 rebar set at an 18" on-center grid with dobies at 36" on-center; 2" dobies for a 4" slab and 3" dobies for a 6" slab. Also, forget the fiber-mesh, the best crack control is saw cutting the control joint grooves a day or two later at 1/3 of the depth of the slab; 1-3/8" for a 4" slab, and 2" for a 6" slab and dividing up the surface area into a maximum of 7 foot by 7 foot squares. One of the best methods of crack control I can tell you is to take your 2" x 5" margin trowel and push in down into the slab at all joint locations where the control joint meets a structure, drain, form, or at the beginning and the end of the joint. This insures the cracks to follow the joints and gets the saw cut closer to the end of the joint where the saw can't reach. Authored by Steve Milovich GC of 42 years
You’re a treat to watch. Plain, simple, concise, informative. It’s really nice to watch a crew who truly cares about the outcome- not just running to the bank to cash the check. Thank you.
It's amazing how the pros can make hard work look so easy. I'm glad you mention using a water reducer in the videos where you use it as I was concerned when I started watching your videos that pouring the mud that loose would affect the strength. Great tip. Keep the videos coming. Nice job.
@@ChipsPlace1952 the 2x4 laid in the floor where the wall will go so as to create a channel and help lock in the wall. Tapered on either side so it's easy to remove the 2x4.
To everyone commenting on chairs...plastic chairs usually break when people walk on them. Dobies can create voids. Not to mention trying to wheel on chairs or dobies. Pulling up the wire is fine. I have done many tear outs where the wire is on the ground. It was not pulled up. When I pour...I pull it up and double check as I’m pouring by looking at the bar that has not been covered in concrete. Give it an extra yank before I walk back in it to screed. It NEVER sinks all the way to the ground. The aggregate settles underneath it. Usually when you find wire on the ground it’s because people get in a hurry and FORGET TO PULL IT UP. People ask how is this monolithic? The slab has thickened edges that will be below finished grade. Theirs no need for 48” . As others have stated it’s a floating floor...that’s why the walls are on TOP of the slab. He did put in L bars and I’m sure he put them in more than just the corners. You twist the L bar so it becomes a part of the slab. Also, commenters, what kind of strength would tying flimsy wire to the upright or horizontal floor add?? Nothing. I live in Nebraska..48” frost line is not required for a floating slab under 500 square feet. It’s detached and we’re not parking tanks or semis on it. It’s a one story SHED. Sorry to mention a competitor Mike, but watch Dave Odell. The guys a serious professional and NEVER uses chairs or dobies. I’m not sure if people are trying to “show off” with all of the knowledge they have...but a lot of the comments are ridiculous.
mike i like watch'n your stuff . . . no rocket science, no pandering just common sense, knowing your material and specs then getting it done. . . proper.
Watching Mike's videos makes me wish my guidance counselors talked about jobs like this instead of pushing college or military. Proud of my military service and 23 years in public safety, but I would love to earn a living doing this stuff.
@@sarahann530 I have zero sadness, honey. Especially the 15th of the month when that government retirement check arrives via direct deposit. Thank you. And you're welcome!
I had lay very little concrete in my younger years but I had enjoy doing that. You guys make look so easy but is not, you have to be always on time and moving. Great job !! thanks for the video.
I have been spring forms for a slab that I’m pouring tomorrow. The home owner did the sub grade himself and it was river rock with maybe three inches of sand over it. It was almost impossible to drive stakes. It took forever. I ended up just driving them held back and using shims to get the forms in place. He also wanted me to use lumber that he cut himself. It was rough cut so no planing. And the edges were not flat. It took a while before I realized why I couldnt get my forms to match my string line. I ended up planing the top edge of all the forms myself.
I'm lucky I have a great concrete supplier Osbourne, they have never rushed us, they just ask that the wheelbarrow never stops moving. Great company to work with if your in southeast Michigan! Little shout out to my boys!
I remember that wire mesh came in rolls, you needed a man to stand on one end while we rolled out the rest, a new guy even when it was explained to him why. . .occasionally walk away, distracted by something, then there was screaming, jumping outta the way, pandemonium, profanity, and now we say, “the good old days.” 😂😀🤔
This kind of the way we build foundations in Romania. The difference is on the edge it goes down in the ground 48" minimum. At the bottom at he trench and at the slab level there are 9 1/2" rebars forming like a cage and becoming two beams (one at the bottom and one at the top. If you would look in the cross section it will be like an I-beam with rebar enforcement at the top and bottom. Then for the slab there is rebar going in both direction 3/8" (10mm) every 4" (100mm). The poor is continuous for the walls and slab.
@@MikeDayConcrete Here is a youtube movie in romanian but you can see the images th-cam.com/video/9JotbowK73U/w-d-xo.html It's for a house, not a business or anything. Note interior foundation walls where the interior walls of the house will sit on.
Mike, I have an oddball question for you. I know you primarily do flat work but maybe you'll know. When pouring vertically where they'll be multiple pours. Like bridge piers, tall walls, etc. Besides rebar passing from one pour to the other. Is there anything done to strengthen the cold joint? I know it's common to use adhesives when doweling but that's a bit different. TIA
Nice job!! I have a question though. I have to believe that the wire mesh is getting pushed back to the bottom from all of the walking on it. It seems like it would be better to lift it up right after the pour or use the little chairs or what ever they are called to lift them up. I could be wrong because I clearly don't do this for a living but that is just a thought I had.
this job did come out nice i started out my 35 year Construction Career doing Residential Building in the 1980s and early 90s most of the Foundation Walls were formed using the Brick Pattern on the exterior but seeing Smooth Walls looks so much more Cleaner and Professional IMO I guess it’s like everything in life Fashions Change throughout the years my true passion and Expertise was in Architectual Woodworking and people laugh at me because i can look at Moldings on most buildings and pretty accurately conclude what year that place was built my Former Company did Specialize on Hospital and Medical facilities mostly because in our area that work was consistently Funded and we were in Business to make Money
When the workers are walking in the poured concrete, spreading it out after you have just pulled up the wire mesh; doesn't that press down the wire mesh so in the end; its on the bottom of the slab and not in the middle of the slab thickness? Thanks for all your video.
Yep. Most of that mesh is on the ground when they're done. That's why mesh is garbage. It NEVER ends up in the right place. May as well not have it there. This slab doesn't need to be reinforced anyway, but if you're going to reinforce you should always use rebar.
@@MrBrandonbecker95 bottom mesh for resistance to tensile forces and top mesh to limit shirnkage cracks. Normally use a dpm under the slab and use precast spacer blocks to provide at least 2" of cover to the mesh in the bottom. Rebar in contact with the wet ground is a recipie for corrosion and eventually cracking.
Looks great...This is in Maine? Aren't there codes for depths of footings and freeze depths up there? Down here in Mass., anything with a roof and/or decks must have 4' depths.
@@SG-uh6sw he is....but if I'm just starting off and there's conflicting questions. It would benefit the audience to know. " it's just a shed" is a valid answer 😂
Do you guys do full basements? I'm looking to build a house in Wales and if thats something you do, I'd love to call to get a quote. This video was all I needed to tell me you guys would be the people for the job. Nice work.
Great videos! I'm still learning what all is needed in foundations and I'm wondering, would the metal mesh on the slab always sit on the ground and not be "suspended" in the concrete, like the walls or footings?
They sell what's called a "rebar chair" which is a small plastic piece that you can use to suspend the rebar while pouring, but in the video he says he is pulling up on the mesh as they pour. The guy walking over it while pouring is pushing it right back down though, it would seem.
What is the purpose of the (knee wall?)? Enjoy your videos. Maybe make one that explains tools and equip and concrete blocks and all the different kinds. Thanks
Just keeps the wood framing off the slab and less likely to rot out. Plus the exterior grade was kinda high on a couple sides so it allows backfilling without going up against the wood framing.
"Gotta build down to build up" New York City style. For the Chrysler Building they just straight up dumped i-beams for the steel reinforcement. Even at over 1000 feet high that foundation ain't going anywhere ever. Only $8 million US Dollars to build that entire Skyscraper as well! Think of what people spend $8 million US Dollars on today! Anyhow modern concrete pours (think the now former World Trade Center Towers" use a "bath tub" approach to doing this sort of thing as your wasting valuable space in failing to dig down deep before trying to build up...space for any number of items if you wish...or just to drive down into to "park the car" as seems to be the case here. Great question though and this should be The Code for any and all concrete pours as standard as "slab on the surface" is just a total waste of work, material, aggregate, effort etc "due to frost heaves" etc just as this very knowledgeable individual and Team explained and showed. Not just frost heaves but water intrusion as well. Plus you'll see the metal bolts sticking up out of the concrete for the actual build which is exactly how you want to tie in any structure being built up from this a truly massive amount of reinforced aggregate. In short whatever happens to the building atop this pour the pour itself ain't going anywhere for the next 1000 Years would appear.
Ya made that slab pour look easy. My old man said pour on sand the slab will never crack as the clay wont expand or contract it and crack . He used to do Mega structures... We use chairs and for the Rebar and more steel in Australia..
Good Question! It is a single story. 500 sq feet or less. Floating floor. Thicker at edge with curb wall. And possibly sandy soil vs clay, allowing this type of structure to be appropriate in this circumstance.
So what about the rebar the workers step on pushing it back to the bottom of the pour. Don’t you want it to stay in the middle of the slab insuring a stronger slab. You put no spacers in all you did was pull it up, but then they stepped right back on it pushing it down. Just curious as I’m not a concrete guy.
There were concrete blocks under it in places. But once you pull it up the aggregate gets under it and it doesn't go back down. You'd have to be a concrete guy to know this even though I explain it all the time in my videos.
Happy to see vertical rebar for the curb wall, I would think you needed more than every 5-6”. I would’ve put them every 12”, but is the structural engineer in me!
Maine, 48" frost line. If the gravel is done correctly and landscaping is done correctly, it won't heave. Done 1000's of them over the last 40 years like this.
Simple question, if you are pulling up the wire as you go, but I watch some of the people helping you in this video stepping back into the wet concrete, isn't that pushing it back down? Wouldn't it help to have little supports under the grid keeping all the wire above the gravel surface? I have only seen that done sparsely?
You are correct. The wire mesh has to be flat on the ground in this pour so, in essence it is doing nothing for reinforcement. Should be on chairs and no walking on it. After seeing this, I am spec'ing rebar in my monolithic slab (on chairs). I have seen a few slabs poured due to my job and the crew was pulling up the WWF as they worked away from the pour which made sense. I also agree with the comments regarding using a keyway to avoid cold joints. Lastly, I wouldn't waste time or money on fibers in concrete. Fibers are, as far as I know, for shrinkage only. They provide no strength.Keep the concrete wet for the appropriate time. I have in the past had my concrete sub try to sell me the fibers myth but, don't believe it. Concrete has to have steel properly installed to behave as desired. Other than that, this was a good video. Love watching real American workers do what made America great back in the day.
Doolittle my friend fibers do provide strength and the wire mesh is pulled up and while concrete is being placed under it and as you go your guys keep pulling up as they walk backwards so everything that is in front of them is off the ground . If u seen wire on the bottom before it’s more likely from nobody pulling as they go and keep in Mind wire doesn’t add that much strength it basically is used so when the concrete cracks it will keep it from lifting . If you want more strength add fiber or a 6 -7 Sak mix for more psi
Mike why don’t you use chairs under mesh,don’t you find when you hook it up the mesh is still down low , then u stand on it pushing it down more,we have mesh about 35mm below top of concrete good video
If you would use the vibrator correctly, there would not be any holes. Quick in, slow out. It takes a little time for the air to come up to the surface. And a single rebar in the middle of a wall or foundation is nearly without function (neutral zone, no forces in the material) So better use two layers of steel about 4cm from the outside, to make ure it won't rust. Your levelling without rotating Laser is exzellent.
Just get a 16ft screed much easier to screed from the outside. Even with a 14ft if you just borrow it back and forth. Come out flatter too. I carry a 10-12-14-16 and a 12ft magic screed on my truck. As for the wall do a keyway and water-stop bentonite. Other than that you guys work well together.
Saw that you lifted the wire reinforcement during the pour, but then 2 men walked in the concrete while screening. I would think that walking on the reinforcement wire would negate the lifting--oes not seem like a good practice?
I'm pretty sure they can, but it's much more work. You have to fill the base, and, when it will harden enough, pour the knee. And you will need to float the forms somehow too, so a lot more prep. It's not really worth it. Concrete bonds really well to previous layers, its not an issue in itself.
Yes, he should have done it as a monolithic pour to begin with.... there are several issues with this work but it's up to the client to do their due diligence.
Comments are hilarious. This is not a Condo in FL..... It's a frickin' garage.... Nice work.... I have done a few slabs and my work is a joke compared to the efforts here. And some are 20 years old with no issues. Nice content, very educational, and a chick on the team to boot. Awesome....
Wire mesh is the most ineffective slab reinforcements one could use. I removed a slab I placed 30 years ago and almost all of the mesh was rusted and corroded. The only good thing was that it made it easier to demo. Pulling up on the mesh is pointless when the finishers step right into the concrete afterwards, pushing it back down to the ground.
The best reinforcement is #4 rebar set at an 18" on-center grid with dobies at 36" on-center; 2" dobies for a 4" slab and 3" dobies for a 6" slab. Also, forget the fiber-mesh, the best crack control is saw cutting the control joint grooves a day or two later at 1/3 of the depth of the slab; 1-3/8" for a 4" slab, and 2" for a 6" slab and dividing up the surface area into a maximum of 7 foot by 7 foot squares.
One of the best methods of crack control I can tell you is to take your 2" x 5" margin trowel and push in down into the slab at all joint locations where the control joint meets a structure, drain, form, or at the beginning and the end of the joint. This insures the cracks to follow the joints and gets the saw cut closer to the end of the joint where the saw can't reach.
Authored by Steve Milovich GC of 42 years
i agree....this mesh is doing almost nothing to hold that concrete together.
You’re a treat to watch. Plain, simple, concise, informative. It’s really nice to watch a crew who truly cares about the outcome- not just running to the bank to cash the check. Thank you.
It's amazing how the pros can make hard work look so easy. I'm glad you mention using a water reducer in the videos where you use it as I was concerned when I started watching your videos that pouring the mud that loose would affect the strength. Great tip. Keep the videos coming. Nice job.
Hey Mike have poured a lot of concrete in my day usually we inset a 2x4 tapered on each side for a keyway found that this helps prevent cold joints
WHERE?
@ZAPATTUBE either middle of your footings or middle of where the wall will go.
What is a keyway in concrete?
2x4 tapered on each end?
I'm a shade tree, can that be explained.....
Thanks
@@ChipsPlace1952 the 2x4 laid in the floor where the wall will go so as to create a channel and help lock in the wall. Tapered on either side so it's easy to remove the 2x4.
To everyone commenting on chairs...plastic chairs usually break when people walk on them. Dobies can create voids. Not to mention trying to wheel on chairs or dobies. Pulling up the wire is fine. I have done many tear outs where the wire is on the ground. It was not pulled up. When I pour...I pull it up and double check as I’m pouring by looking at the bar that has not been covered in concrete. Give it an extra yank before I walk back in it to screed. It NEVER sinks all the way to the ground. The aggregate settles underneath it. Usually when you find wire on the ground it’s because people get in a hurry and FORGET TO PULL IT UP. People ask how is this monolithic? The slab has thickened edges that will be below finished grade. Theirs no need for 48” . As others have stated it’s a floating floor...that’s why the walls are on TOP of the slab. He did put in L bars and I’m sure he put them in more than just the corners. You twist the L bar so it becomes a part of the slab. Also, commenters, what kind of strength would tying flimsy wire to the upright or horizontal floor add?? Nothing. I live in Nebraska..48” frost line is not required for a floating slab under 500 square feet. It’s detached and we’re not parking tanks or semis on it. It’s a one story SHED. Sorry to mention a competitor Mike, but watch Dave Odell. The guys a serious professional and NEVER uses chairs or dobies. I’m not sure if people are trying to “show off” with all of the knowledge they have...but a lot of the comments are ridiculous.
This brings us back to our good old days when all our jobs were 3 people max. Thank you for this !
Good to hear that Maine accent once again. Thanks for posting. Great job.
This was really fun watching you guys. I really enjoyed it. Thanks a lot
Glad you enjoyed it!
mike i like watch'n your stuff . . . no rocket science, no pandering just common sense, knowing your material and specs then getting it done. . . proper.
Tia had a really good go,hats off to her
Watching Mike's videos makes me wish my guidance counselors talked about jobs like this instead of pushing college or military. Proud of my military service and 23 years in public safety, but I would love to earn a living doing this stuff.
Don't be sad little buddy , just because you lived off the taxpayer your whole life doesn't make you less of a man
Usually they don't know about that stuff either and that is why they are... Guidance Counsellers. Thankfully there are video like these.
@andrescientos "Guidance Counselor" would imply they know on careers, school, and other things to "guide" students toward.
@@sarahann530 I have zero sadness, honey. Especially the 15th of the month when that government retirement check arrives via direct deposit. Thank you. And you're welcome!
I had lay very little concrete in my younger years but I had enjoy doing that. You guys make look so easy but is not, you have to be always on time and moving. Great job !! thanks for the video.
those hob forms look like the go. pain setting up with timbers and also to pour in 1 hit nice work
Exactly the dimensions, door placements and orientation of my garage! Nice job Mike.
“DIY”…first 30 seconds….hired excavator….hired Mike Day.
You could still rent an excavator and do everything yourself.
Hired concrete truck 😆
If you think your gonna poor a full on garage fondation with a hand mixer and concrete pouches
@@reminoel483 These DIY concrete guys probably can't mix a yard by hand in a day. Let them dream.
@@flocksbyknight Dude, you’ve got ZERO clue… 🤣👉🏼🤡
Lady was amazing better then many apprentice 🍷🍷🍷🌹🌹🌹🌹👌👌👌👌👍
WOW, what skill and team, I love concrete.
You’re a bad man! Great work Mike
Perfect for my side shed plans in the Burbs on a slope.
I have been spring forms for a slab that I’m pouring tomorrow. The home owner did the sub grade himself and it was river rock with maybe three inches of sand over it. It was almost impossible to drive stakes. It took forever. I ended up just driving them held back and using shims to get the forms in place. He also wanted me to use lumber that he cut himself. It was rough cut so no planing. And the edges were not flat. It took a while before I realized why I couldnt get my forms to match my string line. I ended up planing the top edge of all the forms myself.
You guys are pros and it shows.
Love that Maine accent! Been too long since I've visited Bangor. Greetings from your friends in Nova Scotia! Great video.
Thanks! 😃
I'm lucky I have a great concrete supplier Osbourne, they have never rushed us, they just ask that the wheelbarrow never stops moving. Great company to work with if your in southeast Michigan! Little shout out to my boys!
Is it possible to do the slab and knee walls in one pour ?
Thank you for taking the time to film & explain it.
Very informative!
I noticed no keyway connection between slab and knee wall. Not a requirement for your area?
I noticed this too... usually there's rebar in the slab J'd, sticking upward to tie the stem wall to the slab every 18"-24".
He showed us how he sets in the bent re-bar as a tie-in.
Nice work. I like the smooth knee walls.
Great Video. Thanks!!
Thank you
I remember that wire mesh came in rolls, you needed a man to stand on one end while we rolled out the rest, a new guy even when it was explained to him why. . .occasionally walk away, distracted by something, then there was screaming, jumping outta the way, pandemonium, profanity, and now we say, “the good old days.” 😂😀🤔
we still use them every once in a while. You only step off the wire once lol
This kind of the way we build foundations in Romania. The difference is on the edge it goes down in the ground 48" minimum. At the bottom at he trench and at the slab level there are 9 1/2" rebars forming like a cage and becoming two beams (one at the bottom and one at the top. If you would look in the cross section it will be like an I-beam with rebar enforcement at the top and bottom. Then for the slab there is rebar going in both direction 3/8" (10mm) every 4" (100mm). The poor is continuous for the walls and slab.
That's a rugged slab for sure. Thanks for sharing!
@@MikeDayConcrete Here is a youtube movie in romanian but you can see the images th-cam.com/video/9JotbowK73U/w-d-xo.html It's for a house, not a business or anything. Note interior foundation walls where the interior walls of the house will sit on.
@@MikeDayConcrete Here is another example: th-cam.com/video/DCQRn_g7ggI/w-d-xo.html
Your frost line is much deeper….
@@rickkriz8901 Nope. For Romania is between 0.7 to 1.2m. I gave 48" which is 1.2m. Did you do some research before speaking?
I do Concret in Indiana, you guys did a nice job.
Those aluminum forms are nice
Very nice. Nice you showed a different way. Some try to pour all one.
Would like to see the knee wall forms setup in the future.
That’s what I was here for too!
It was certainly a lot more detail
No waterproofing ?
Really nice work Mike ! 💪🏼💯💪🏼
Good video. Made it look easy.
Great video! Now I'm motivated to get out there and do my project!
IF you are pulling up the rebar or steel as you go along aren't you pushing it back down when you are walking back on the areas you had pulled it up?
Mike, I have an oddball question for you. I know you primarily do flat work but maybe you'll know.
When pouring vertically where they'll be multiple pours. Like bridge piers, tall walls, etc. Besides rebar passing from one pour to the other. Is there anything done to strengthen the cold joint?
I know it's common to use adhesives when doweling but that's a bit different. TIA
It looks great👍
From one Day to another Day, howdy.
Nice job!! I have a question though. I have to believe that the wire mesh is getting pushed back to the bottom from all of the walking on it. It seems like it would be better to lift it up right after the pour or use the little chairs or what ever they are called to lift them up. I could be wrong because I clearly don't do this for a living but that is just a thought I had.
My thought as well.
Looks clean and neat.
It was!
fantastic craftsmanship!!!
this job did come out nice i started out my 35 year Construction Career doing Residential Building in the 1980s and early 90s most of the Foundation Walls were formed using the Brick Pattern on the exterior but seeing Smooth Walls looks so much more Cleaner and Professional IMO I guess it’s like everything in life Fashions Change throughout the years my true passion and Expertise was in Architectual Woodworking and people laugh at me because i can look at Moldings on most buildings and pretty accurately conclude what year that place was built my Former Company did Specialize on Hospital and Medical facilities mostly because in our area that work was consistently Funded and we were in Business to make Money
When the workers are walking in the poured concrete, spreading it out after you have just pulled up the wire mesh; doesn't that press down the wire mesh so in the end; its on the bottom of the slab and not in the middle of the slab thickness? Thanks for all your video.
Yep. Most of that mesh is on the ground when they're done. That's why mesh is garbage. It NEVER ends up in the right place. May as well not have it there. This slab doesn't need to be reinforced anyway, but if you're going to reinforce you should always use rebar.
Yes. He pulls it up here and there and then the big guy pushes it all down again when he walks over it.
Mesh is supposed to be in the bottom third of concrete. Much better strength
@@MrBrandonbecker95 bottom mesh for resistance to tensile forces and top mesh to limit shirnkage cracks. Normally use a dpm under the slab and use precast spacer blocks to provide at least 2" of cover to the mesh in the bottom. Rebar in contact with the wet ground is a recipie for corrosion and eventually cracking.
I would have raised this up a little. this seems to be about 2 or 4 feet to low, what's going to happen when it rains?
Looks great...This is in Maine? Aren't there codes for depths of footings and freeze depths up there? Down here in Mass., anything with a roof and/or decks must have 4' depths.
I like how you didnt reply to any one asking about waterstop and rebar ties and what not you owes them nada
I mean....the more people he answers questions...the more people that'll subscribe...thus giving him revenue.
@@AnthonyAlvarado78 he's good regardless 👌
@@SG-uh6sw he is....but if I'm just starting off and there's conflicting questions. It would benefit the audience to know. " it's just a shed" is a valid answer 😂
@@AnthonyAlvarado78 good day sir said what i said either live with it or dont kindly move along thank you
@@SG-uh6sw love you too. Cheers to the useless conversation.
Do you guys do full basements? I'm looking to build a house in Wales and if thats something you do, I'd love to call to get a quote. This video was all I needed to tell me you guys would be the people for the job. Nice work.
I want to volunteer to work for this guy for a couple of jobs so I can learn how to do concrete properly.
Wow ur a great teacher. Great video
Great videos! I'm still learning what all is needed in foundations and I'm wondering, would the metal mesh on the slab always sit on the ground and not be "suspended" in the concrete, like the walls or footings?
They sell what's called a "rebar chair" which is a small plastic piece that you can use to suspend the rebar while pouring, but in the video he says he is pulling up on the mesh as they pour. The guy walking over it while pouring is pushing it right back down though, it would seem.
What is the purpose of the (knee wall?)? Enjoy your videos. Maybe make one that explains tools and equip and concrete blocks and all the different kinds. Thanks
Just keeps the wood framing off the slab and less likely to rot out. Plus the exterior grade was kinda high on a couple sides so it allows backfilling without going up against the wood framing.
"Gotta build down to build up" New York City style. For the Chrysler Building they just straight up dumped i-beams for the steel reinforcement. Even at over 1000 feet high that foundation ain't going anywhere ever.
Only $8 million US Dollars to build that entire Skyscraper as well!
Think of what people spend $8 million US Dollars on today!
Anyhow modern concrete pours (think the now former World Trade Center Towers" use a "bath tub" approach to doing this sort of thing as your wasting valuable space in failing to dig down deep before trying to build up...space for any number of items if you wish...or just to drive down into to "park the car" as seems to be the case here. Great question though and this should be The Code for any and all concrete pours as standard as "slab on the surface" is just a total waste of work, material, aggregate, effort etc "due to frost heaves" etc just as this very knowledgeable individual and Team explained and showed.
Not just frost heaves but water intrusion as well.
Plus you'll see the metal bolts sticking up out of the concrete for the actual build which is exactly how you want to tie in any structure being built up from this a truly massive amount of reinforced aggregate.
In short whatever happens to the building atop this pour the pour itself ain't going anywhere for the next 1000 Years would appear.
how is your wire staying embedded at proper height when the guys are stepping right on top of it right after you pull it up. Always wondered this one.
It's not.
That's another level ...
Mike - I always love watching your videos! Question - what is the purpose of the "knee wall" for this garage? Backfill?
Yes, the outside grade was high on a couple sides.
Ya made that slab pour look easy. My old man said pour on sand the slab will never crack as the clay wont expand or contract it and crack . He used to do Mega structures...
We use chairs and for the Rebar and more steel in Australia..
Why is this foundation not down to the frost line?
No footers needed?
In Maine?
Thanks
Good Question! It is a single story. 500 sq feet or less. Floating floor. Thicker at edge with curb wall. And possibly sandy soil vs clay, allowing this type of structure to be appropriate in this circumstance.
How does the wall seal against the slab? Wouldn't water seep in?
No consolidation? Didn't see a vibrator.. self consolidating mix design?
How about a slope at the garage door to keep water from running in under the door?
Was there a water stop in the construction joint?
So what about the rebar the workers step on pushing it back to the bottom of the pour. Don’t you want it to stay in the middle of the slab insuring a stronger slab. You put no spacers in all you did was pull it up, but then they stepped right back on it pushing it down. Just curious as I’m not a concrete guy.
There were concrete blocks under it in places. But once you pull it up the aggregate gets under it and it doesn't go back down. You'd have to be a concrete guy to know this even though I explain it all the time in my videos.
@@MikeDayConcrete , dobies!
Mesh is useless. May as well not even use it. If you want to reinforce, always use rebar with blocks or stands underneath.
4:40 "pulling up the wire" only to have your helpers behind stepping all over it pushing back down.
Happy to see vertical rebar for the curb wall, I would think you needed more than every 5-6”. I would’ve put them every 12”, but is the structural engineer in me!
Overbuilt and money no object for you guys. ;)
🤣 in case an airplane crashes in to it?
Where do yall live. You guys must not have frost lines
Maine, 48" frost line. If the gravel is done correctly and landscaping is done correctly, it won't heave. Done 1000's of them over the last 40 years like this.
did they rent the forms?
Do you have a price breakdown of how things went for this particular part of the job?
Given that they’re using 2x10 or 2x8 boards I’m going to guess they didn’t rent. Rentals are usually concrete systems such as Siemens, or Doka.
He's referring to the wall forms. yes you can rent them.
What about floor slope?
Did you do a capillary barrier between footer and side walls?
Guess you only work in Maine and neighboring states? I'm looking at laying a slab and want DIY so I won't have a large mortgage.
You're in Maine? No frost protection? Wall not keyed into the slab?
Simple question, if you are pulling up the wire as you go, but I watch some of the people helping you in this video stepping back into the wet concrete, isn't that pushing it back down? Wouldn't it help to have little supports under the grid keeping all the wire above the gravel surface? I have only seen that done sparsely?
You are correct. The wire mesh has to be flat on the ground in this pour so, in essence it is doing nothing for reinforcement. Should be on chairs and no walking on it. After seeing this, I am spec'ing rebar in my monolithic slab (on chairs). I have seen a few slabs poured due to my job and the crew was pulling up the WWF as they worked away from the pour which made sense. I also agree with the comments regarding using a keyway to avoid cold joints. Lastly, I wouldn't waste time or money on fibers in concrete. Fibers are, as far as I know, for shrinkage only. They provide no strength.Keep the concrete wet for the appropriate time. I have in the past had my concrete sub try to sell me the fibers myth but, don't believe it. Concrete has to have steel properly installed to behave as desired. Other than that, this was a good video. Love watching real American workers do what made America great back in the day.
@@doolittle3664 Also, having a DPM, will be even better.
Doolittle my friend fibers do provide strength and the wire mesh is pulled up and while concrete is being placed under it and as you go your guys keep pulling up as they walk backwards so everything that is in front of them is off the ground . If u seen wire on the bottom before it’s more likely from nobody pulling as they go and keep in Mind wire doesn’t add that much strength it basically is used so when the concrete cracks it will keep it from lifting . If you want more strength add fiber or a 6 -7 Sak mix for more psi
Just curious Mike, wouldn’t you want the knee wall poured with the slab for a true monolithic pour?
Not necessary, slab is still green, it will bond.
I've always been curious about these kind of foundations. Do they heave in cold climates?
Mike why don’t you use chairs under mesh,don’t you find when you hook it up the mesh is still down low , then u stand on it pushing it down more,we have mesh about 35mm below top of concrete good video
You are the King when it comes to concrete my man.
So will the slab be lowers the grade.
Why no damp proof course under the concrete?
question but did you guys remove the spreaders once the concrete reached that level?
Hey That’s the size garage I’m looking to get. If you feel like coming to Jersey I have some work. Excellent video
where do you get the forms? thanks nice video
What’s a job like that run approx?
will water seep between the knee wall and the slab
did you rent the aluminium wall ? Thanks
Does the knee wall bond with the slab or is it just the rebar holding the walls?
You don’t have to dig down 3’ below existing grade in Maine for footing?
Nice, very tidy work.
Can you rent those metal concrete forms?
If you would use the vibrator correctly, there would not be any holes. Quick in, slow out. It takes a little time for the air to come up to the surface. And a single rebar in the middle of a wall or foundation is nearly without function (neutral zone, no forces in the material) So better use two layers of steel about 4cm from the outside, to make ure it won't rust. Your levelling without rotating Laser is exzellent.
How big is the rough opening for the garage door??
Just get a 16ft screed much easier to screed from the outside. Even with a 14ft if you just borrow it back and forth. Come out flatter too. I carry a 10-12-14-16 and a 12ft magic screed on my truck. As for the wall do a keyway and water-stop bentonite. Other than that you guys work well together.
DIY cinder block owner installed knee wall more cost effective ?
Saw that you lifted the wire reinforcement during the pour, but then 2 men walked in the concrete while screening. I would think that walking on the reinforcement wire would negate the lifting--oes not seem like a good practice?
Is the guy walking over the wire after you pull up on it help?
How much is this concrete project. It’s a very important information that every contractor should provide, then more projects are planned.
Just curious to you prefer a key way for the kneewall
Should it not be below the frost line?
Not a monolithic slab. Every garage in Chicago is poured that was, about a million of them.
Can you pour a knee wall at the same time as the main pour?
I'm pretty sure they can, but it's much more work. You have to fill the base, and, when it will harden enough, pour the knee. And you will need to float the forms somehow too, so a lot more prep. It's not really worth it. Concrete bonds really well to previous layers, its not an issue in itself.
Yes, he should have done it as a monolithic pour to begin with.... there are several issues with this work but it's up to the client to do their due diligence.