I think I was the last question on your part 1 video. This video not only answered my question, but the visual of how the bow may tip up or down depending on the D-loop height was key. I don't remember ever hearing anyone else address that aspect of bow setup. Thanks
Fantastic! Am really getting more of an understanding what goes into archery from your vids.. really highlights the difference between a pro and those of us who just tuned our bare shafts through paper snd thought we were good to go. Love your vids. Thank you
Please make a video on how you would loosen up your d loop and tie nock points once you know the arrow location on string. THanks. your very articulate. Thanks for vids.
I always appreciate all of your archery advice videos, thank you. I really want to try this with my bow, but I am curious if I should do this without my stabilizer weights on so that my hold is not influenced by those additional weights? Any advice is appreciated
Roger Roger 🏁 Awesome Stuff Thank you!!! I've finished a close 2nd to your Pop a couple times in SSFS but no cigar yet Hahaha... I'm sure your Tips will get me there eventually 🏴☠️🏹🏁
Thanks Paige, I tried your method. There is a question, once I finish setting my D loop, I have to move up the rest to pass the paper tune, and/or aim higher. It all means I have to raise the bow. Isn't that going back to the beginning?
When you are sighting the bow for the dloop, I noticed your peep is in. That location changes with the dloop right? Because your anchor doesn't change, I am guessing, get your dloop adjusted and then adjust peep to fit your anchor, then go into tuning? Maybe you already did a video from bare bow to tournament ready and I missed it.
Do you have a video where you do a full build set up? I've watched you do multiple one step things and it has been great. But It would be nice to see a video of one full set up. Even it is broken down into multiple videos but in order of what should be first.
Agree I have watched a couple of your videos and I really enjoy how you explain. Please set up a bow from beginning to end while videoing it. I do appreciate you taking the time to help us littles.
Adjusting the height of the loop, the angle with the rest changes, causing the arrow to become unsquared. Do you adjust the height of the arrow rest after finding the balance point of the loop on the string, or leave it in the starting height, aligned with the Berger hole?" Thanks a lot for your tips
Yes you’ll have to raise rest when you go to tune. That’s is why she said she works on aiming first. Then she’ll tune once her aiming process is complete. Berger hole is a starting point a lot of people are running either very high or very low whichever works best.
any chance of a separate vid re running a cam ahead? By ahead I assume you mean which one hits first at full draw on a draw board. For one, I must admit I don't understand the mechanics of how the bottom cam hitting ahead can produce an upward hold. If that cam has already stopped and you keep pulling and top cam is still releasing string, wouldn't that make the top of the bow angle down at the last. That's my logic so I always had the top cam just ahead/ bottom cam still able to pay out string to get to the final backwall. I felt like it worked in assisting a high hold but that could of course be placebo and you've obviously actually rigorously tested all this. They say if you're unsure of an outcome then you should test the extremes so I guess this would be easy to test on a draw board by taking a timed bow and moving the top and bottom stops alternately to the next draw lengths position (and watching the stabiliser to see what angle it produces on the bow - sort of like your D loop demo. I wonder if the bow gets into a thing where a higher D loop makes the bow want to scoop up, and cam timing (if my logic is correct - not saying it is!) makes it want it want to tip down, creating a competing force, a tension that helps stabilise the bow in that plane.
Something I do not understand: you mention that you prefer (in most cases) that your bottom cam hits the stop first. And that the bow will then have the tendency to “pull up”, the upper side tilts towards the shooter and thus making aiming a bit easier as your aim will “fall less” … But for me, when the bottom can hits the stop first, it will make the bow tilt mor forward with the top. As the bottom cam stops, pulling more string will pull the bottom to the archer while the top cam is still rotating and will not yet pull the riser. What did I understand wrongly??
I have a question my d loop is higher than my rest and so my arrow is not 90 degrees to my string how ever it does perfect on paper tune should i worry about changing my d loop or not. Also my d loop is not centered on my string its about and inch high towards my top cam
With today's modern bows that have parallel limbs, tiller tuning isn't effective. Tiller tuning is something that was more popular with older bows that have the more traditional upright limbs. Some of today's modern target bows have enough upright limb position that you can still tiller tune effectively. Target bows with long stabilizers or hunting bows with high let-off can be more prone to dipping so by adjusting the loop height, you can gain a little more leverage to keep the bow from dipping.
I think I was the last question on your part 1 video. This video not only answered my question, but the visual of how the bow may tip up or down depending on the D-loop height was key. I don't remember ever hearing anyone else address that aspect of bow setup. Thanks
Fantastic! Am really getting more of an understanding what goes into archery from your vids.. really highlights the difference between a pro and those of us who just tuned our bare shafts through paper snd thought we were good to go. Love your vids. Thank you
Please make a video on how you would loosen up your d loop and tie nock points once you know the arrow location on string. THanks. your very articulate. Thanks for vids.
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks, happy holidays
First watch, not my last.
I watch your 'tip' videos over and over until I'm sure I got all the nuances.
Thanks so much for taking the time.
Thank you Paige. The knowledge that you are sharing is invaluable.
wow! just love the videos.
Do a video on how you set up a bow!! Even if it’s 2 hours long everyone would watch it.
I always appreciate all of your archery advice videos, thank you. I really want to try this with my bow, but I am curious if I should do this without my stabilizer weights on so that my hold is not influenced by those additional weights? Any advice is appreciated
Roger Roger 🏁
Awesome Stuff Thank you!!!
I've finished a close 2nd to your Pop a couple times in SSFS but no cigar yet Hahaha... I'm sure your Tips will get me there eventually 🏴☠️🏹🏁
Thanks Paige, I tried your method. There is a question, once I finish setting my D loop, I have to move up the rest to pass the paper tune, and/or aim higher. It all means I have to raise the bow. Isn't that going back to the beginning?
When you are sighting the bow for the dloop, I noticed your peep is in. That location changes with the dloop right? Because your anchor doesn't change, I am guessing, get your dloop adjusted and then adjust peep to fit your anchor, then go into tuning? Maybe you already did a video from bare bow to tournament ready and I missed it.
The demonstration was a very good visual. Kinda doubted that it actually mattered until I saw that.
Do you have a video where you do a full build set up? I've watched you do multiple one step things and it has been great. But It would be nice to see a video of one full set up. Even it is broken down into multiple videos but in order of what should be first.
Agree I have watched a couple of your videos and I really enjoy how you explain. Please set up a bow from beginning to end while videoing it. I do appreciate you taking the time to help us littles.
Adjusting the height of the loop, the angle with the rest changes, causing the arrow to become unsquared. Do you adjust the height of the arrow rest after finding the balance point of the loop on the string, or leave it in the starting height, aligned with the Berger hole?"
Thanks a lot for your tips
Yes you’ll have to raise rest when you go to tune. That’s is why she said she works on aiming first. Then she’ll tune once her aiming process is complete. Berger hole is a starting point a lot of people are running either very high or very low whichever works best.
Thanks again!
Oops, video on tying the loop, … ? I must have missed that somewhere
Thanks
I did walk back to my bow today. I got sick of working on my bow so i walked back to the bar. lol
any chance of a separate vid re running a cam ahead? By ahead I assume you mean which one hits first at full draw on a draw board. For one, I must admit I don't understand the mechanics of how the bottom cam hitting ahead can produce an upward hold. If that cam has already stopped and you keep pulling and top cam is still releasing string, wouldn't that make the top of the bow angle down at the last. That's my logic so I always had the top cam just ahead/ bottom cam still able to pay out string to get to the final backwall. I felt like it worked in assisting a high hold but that could of course be placebo and you've obviously actually rigorously tested all this. They say if you're unsure of an outcome then you should test the extremes so I guess this would be easy to test on a draw board by taking a timed bow and moving the top and bottom stops alternately to the next draw lengths position (and watching the stabiliser to see what angle it produces on the bow - sort of like your D loop demo. I wonder if the bow gets into a thing where a higher D loop makes the bow want to scoop up, and cam timing (if my logic is correct - not saying it is!) makes it want it want to tip down, creating a competing force, a tension that helps stabilise the bow in that plane.
Something I do not understand: you mention that you prefer (in most cases) that your bottom cam hits the stop first. And that the bow will then have the tendency to “pull up”, the upper side tilts towards the shooter and thus making aiming a bit easier as your aim will “fall less” … But for me, when the bottom can hits the stop first, it will make the bow tilt mor forward with the top.
As the bottom cam stops, pulling more string will pull the bottom to the archer while the top cam is still rotating and will not yet pull the riser.
What did I understand wrongly??
if most of my misses are high, and the bow wants to move up as I pull, I reckon my d-loop is too high?
Is this worth doing on a hunting bow as well?
Would this still hold true on a prime bow being their grip is located in the center of it’s riser
U sure change fast!
I have a question my d loop is higher than my rest and so my arrow is not 90 degrees to my string how ever it does perfect on paper tune should i worry about changing my d loop or not. Also my d loop is not centered on my string its about and inch high towards my top cam
Some bows you cannot run your loop center. Most will tune slightly nock high also.
Whats the point of tiller tuning if it basically does the same as d loop height?
Anchor point height is not the same with every person.
With today's modern bows that have parallel limbs, tiller tuning isn't effective. Tiller tuning is something that was more popular with older bows that have the more traditional upright limbs. Some of today's modern target bows have enough upright limb position that you can still tiller tune effectively.
Target bows with long stabilizers or hunting bows with high let-off can be more prone to dipping so by adjusting the loop height, you can gain a little more leverage to keep the bow from dipping.