I shot a kisser button for years, and then I went to anchoring on my face without a kisser button and after using this technique, my groups really tightened up and I feel more comfortable and confident now when shooting. Thanks For the help George, I really appreciate it. Keep putting out good content like this!👍🏻
Thanks George! I've had to learn this on my own about 8 months ago when I started shooting again after major brain surgery. I had severe facial nerve weakness, slowly coming back. I had/have no real anchor point. I basically have to just come to full draw and line up my peep with the sight.
Thank you, finally good validation from an expert that nose doesn’t have to touch the string. I’ve never been able to shoot comfortably that way. I’ve had numerous shooters on the line say to me “hey, you know you should be touching your string to nose.”
OMG! This is probably the best advice for me. I’ve got a small Asian nose lol and getting my nose on the string WILL NOT WORK for me. I tried this out today sighting in some new arrows… my groupings have never been closer at 60 yards.. DAMN! 😊
There's one thing I am having trouble accepting GRIV, and it's probably an understanding problem more than anything, or I am overthinking it. If the peep is dictating the final anchor position of the hand, doesn't that introduce some inconsistency in where the release ends up across all ranges? I assume the torqueless loops here is taking out the angular inconsistency, but I'd say the majority of us use a standard loop. Or is it so subtle it does not matter?
Could you do another video on this, and use a whiteboard to draw it. I think I understand but if I had a different visual as to what I am looking at through my peep, I think I would understand a little better. Anyway thanks, and another great video.
Love this method. But still not clear on how to set the peep at a certain distance if I'm letting the peep determine my anchor. Hopefully that will be coming up in a future TAW 👍
Most peeps are set at 20yds where it's comfortable. If you're shooting long distance for instance 100yds. Try to find a comfortable spot for your peep to be at around 50yds. You need to slide your peep up or down to find that comfort zone like how it feels when shooting at 20yds. After that you need to readjust your tape. Most likely adjusting the scope housing at 20 and 60 all over again. The tape should be the same, you just need to adjust your housing again. .
Hi George, I could really use help with a video about your release hand and how you push, pull relax index, pull with ring finger etc…. Especially on a Hinge.
This might help you. It's one of the first "Thing a Week's" from back in the olden days. But we could definitely do with an update. I would be interested in seeing what GRIV has changed in the last 10 year and what's still the same th-cam.com/video/-lwxnbrGAvw/w-d-xo.html
@@eclipsearchery9387 Agreed! But there is more than one mental cue that can be used to induce rotation of the release. Some people might think of relaxing their index finger, others might think of pressing in with their ring finger, others will think of allowing the back of the hand to stretch (like GRIV recommends). If you watch Braden Gellethien shoot he draws his 4 finger release with 3 fingers and then adds his baby finger to fire the release. Many different ways to get to the same result, the release rotates and the shot is fired. Some people are able to just sit at full draw and work the release. For me, if I become too static in the shot I end up creeping. So I shoot better if I'm adding a little extra pull to make sure I'm staying on the back wall. Pulling does not fire the release, relaxing my hand fires the release. But for me pulling is still an important part of the process
From what I hear, yes. Seems kinda counterintuitive to me. With this method my question would be how to know your peep height is correct when the bow is initially.
I have always anchored first and then looked through the peep and I’ve always had problems shooting long distance. This is such helpful info! Love it!!!
Hey George. So do you recommend a very small peep - if we don’t need to worry about Centering the peep on scope housing. You see lots of videos about matching size of your peep so you can see ring of scope housing. Your approach above makes more sense.
Anything over an 1/8” according to George doesn’t let any more light in and just decreases your accuracy. Also, center the target in your peep, not your peep around your scope.
That’s what I thought I heard. Thanks Mathew. If I shoot a single pin, and put this on the target, and line up the peep with the target - all perfect - my peep should automatically be centered on my scope housing anyway - right?
Nice work mister makes perfect sense
In the 80/90's we called that a floating anchor point. My buddy's in Washington State tought me that. Cool to see that your teaching this process.
I shot a kisser button for years, and then I went to anchoring on my face without a kisser button and after using this technique, my groups really tightened up and I feel more comfortable and confident now when shooting. Thanks For the help George, I really appreciate it. Keep putting out good content like this!👍🏻
Never heard it explained that way before. Very informative. Appreciate it!
Thanks George! I've had to learn this on my own about 8 months ago when I started shooting again after major brain surgery. I had severe facial nerve weakness, slowly coming back. I had/have no real anchor point. I basically have to just come to full draw and line up my peep with the sight.
Thank you, finally good validation from an expert that nose doesn’t have to touch the string. I’ve never been able to shoot comfortably that way. I’ve had numerous shooters on the line say to me “hey, you know you should be touching your string to nose.”
OMG! This is probably the best advice for me. I’ve got a small Asian nose lol and getting my nose on the string WILL NOT WORK for me. I tried this out today sighting in some new arrows… my groupings have never been closer at 60 yards.. DAMN! 😊
Thanks for sharing your videos I have learn a lot , even now I can make my torque less d loop
Just what I needed to see!!! Great video, very helpful.
Thanks George just went and tried this. I did exactly as you explained it. I like it I definitely had less facial pressure worked great
I was finally able to hit a pie plate at 100 yds. Letting the peep dictate my anchor really helped. Thank you George!
Great video. Good advice for folks who shoot with glasses.
At some point can George talk about the torque less D Loop that he’s using?
There's one thing I am having trouble accepting GRIV, and it's probably an understanding problem more than anything, or I am overthinking it.
If the peep is dictating the final anchor position of the hand, doesn't that introduce some inconsistency in where the release ends up across all ranges? I assume the torqueless loops here is taking out the angular inconsistency, but I'd say the majority of us use a standard loop.
Or is it so subtle it does not matter?
Shoutout Liam! Bow tuning group!
Yes, George, It sound very logical. I'll try it and I let you know the results. Thank you.
Thank you for some great info!
Always love your help,,
Could you do another video on this, and use a whiteboard to draw it. I think I understand but if I had a different visual as to what I am looking at through my peep, I think I would understand a little better.
Anyway thanks, and another great video.
Love this method. But still not clear on how to set the peep at a certain distance if I'm letting the peep determine my anchor.
Hopefully that will be coming up in a future TAW 👍
Thanks Francis. My exact request as well.
Most peeps are set at 20yds where it's comfortable. If you're shooting long distance for instance 100yds. Try to find a comfortable spot for your peep to be at around 50yds. You need to slide your peep up or down to find that comfort zone like how it feels when shooting at 20yds. After that you need to readjust your tape. Most likely adjusting the scope housing at 20 and 60 all over again. The tape should be the same, you just need to adjust your housing again. .
@@WendellAbigania I personally use 40 because my max elk shot would be around 80yds. Info : 500gr -iron will -280 fps
Hi George, I could really use help with a video about your release hand and how you push, pull relax index, pull with ring finger etc…. Especially on a Hinge.
This might help you. It's one of the first "Thing a Week's" from back in the olden days.
But we could definitely do with an update. I would be interested in seeing what GRIV has changed in the last 10 year and what's still the same
th-cam.com/video/-lwxnbrGAvw/w-d-xo.html
@@francisgignac8312 You don't pull on a hinge....you rotate it....
@@eclipsearchery9387 Agreed!
But there is more than one mental cue that can be used to induce rotation of the release. Some people might think of relaxing their index finger, others might think of pressing in with their ring finger, others will think of allowing the back of the hand to stretch (like GRIV recommends). If you watch Braden Gellethien shoot he draws his 4 finger release with 3 fingers and then adds his baby finger to fire the release. Many different ways to get to the same result, the release rotates and the shot is fired.
Some people are able to just sit at full draw and work the release. For me, if I become too static in the shot I end up creeping. So I shoot better if I'm adding a little extra pull to make sure I'm staying on the back wall. Pulling does not fire the release, relaxing my hand fires the release. But for me pulling is still an important part of the process
@@eclipsearchery9387not so. Rotating it is the prescribed way but an hinge can be set to pull thru with tension and fire.
So for each distance you will have a different anchor point ?
From what I hear, yes.
Seems kinda counterintuitive to me.
With this method my question would be how to know your peep height is correct when the bow is initially.
@@johnsmith4933I have the same question..
I have always anchored first and then looked through the peep and I’ve always had problems shooting long distance. This is such helpful info! Love it!!!
When you say…”Pin on the target”…do you mean pin on the center of the bullseye?
I love these videos, thank you so much!!!
Makes perfect sense 🤦🏽 most of us have been doing it bass ackwards! TY!
I know I have... Switching to this method has been liberating
Hey George. So do you recommend a very small peep - if we don’t need to worry about Centering the peep on scope housing.
You see lots of videos about matching size of your peep so you can see ring of scope housing.
Your approach above makes more sense.
Anything over an 1/8” according to George doesn’t let any more light in and just decreases your accuracy. Also, center the target in your peep, not your peep around your scope.
That’s what I thought I heard. Thanks Mathew.
If I shoot a single pin, and put this on the target, and line up the peep with the target - all perfect - my peep should automatically be centered on my scope housing anyway - right?
I really did feel the difference from 18 meters and 50 meters in anchor but really2 works
❤❤❤👍👍👍
Aman!
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Go hornets 🐝🐝
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