Got the job done after watching this video about 3 times and taking notes. Great information here. I took my knuckle to a auto machine shop and had the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in for $75.00. I tried using a bearing tool from a tool rental shop (like the Hub Grappler) but gave up because even with a 3' extension on my breaker bar, I couldn't move the bearing more than about 1/4". The machine shop has a press and the right dies to make it work. total time was about 2 hrs of my labor plus trips to the machine shop. Cost ended up around $225.00 Thanks for this great video.
Thanks for the video I think overall it does a good job at explaining how to do this job. I Wanted to recommend a few tips on some things I noticed for anyone looking to do this job on their own.1. When taking the 10 mm bolt for the ABS sensor in and out be extremely careful this bolt should not be in there very tight and if you get on it too much while you loosen or tighten it you can easily break it off and then you’re gonna have to be faced with trying to drill it out. 2. I highly recommend not using a flat blade screwdriver under the ABS sensor to pry it out instead use a pair of pliers and grip it on the sides and twist and pull straight up instead of prying underneath it. In my opinion she was lucky she Didn’t break the ABS sensor trying to pry it out like that. I have seen and heard a lot of people breaking them trying to pry it out this way.3 surprising to see a shop use the BFH method In a how to video.When removing The upper ball joint it’s a lot easier and safer just to use a ball joint press than the BFH method and smacking your uca. Harbor freight sells a inexpensive two jaw puller that you can use on this job and also other various jobs making it worthwhile and a lot safer than hitting on your suspension components. 4. Highly recommend not hitting on the end of your cv axle stud with a hammer you can easily mess up the threads to where your axle nut is not going to be able to start again causing you a whole new set of problems. Simple enough just to use a rubber mallet or screw back on the axle nut and tap on that instead. 5. When loosening and tightening the axle nut screw back on a couple Lugnuts to protect the threads on the wheel studs. I noticed she uses a long prybar through the wheel studs but there is nothing to protect the threads on the wheel studs when she is tightening and loosening the axle nut again this could potentially damage the threads on the wheel studs causing you to have to replace them as well. Just some tips I have either had to learn myself the hard way or from others experiences. Take it or leave it hope this advice may make your job a little easier and potentially save you from causing some further damage.
OMG Toyota --- were your engineers on strike? This is the most complicated bearing replacement of any truck I've worked on! This should be criminal, especially since the front suspension already likes to pop lower balljoints
Hey everyone just wanted to throw in, I purchased a wheel bearing and hub kit from rockauto and it was a cheap bearing but still cost 70 bucks. The diameter of the bearing was not to oem spec and got to a point on the press where it was walking in and suddenly fell in for about half in inch. I removed the bearing because it was not a good fit and purchased a koyo from napa autoparts for about 80 bucks. The koyo by far was a much better bearing visually and after pressing it in went in as you would expect and no issues. If i ever do a bearing on this type of application i will use a koyo. Great video of R and I 1Aauto (especially the part where you support the bottom half of the lower race so you dont split the bearing when installing the hub), you get the point across of how to do the job which I think is a great source of info for the diy guy or gal.
My tacoma has the exact same set up and all rusted up, bought used. had to drill out cotter pins, broke bolts, abs sensor and I thank this Mechanic for showing her techniques and torque specs.
Good video. First I heard the accent and was thinking "A fellow New England mechanic" then I saw the truck and thought "Oh yeah that's a New England vehicle"
just a tip, never hit the bare threaded end of a shaft with a hammer. Screw a nut flush onto the shaft and then do it. It will protect your threads on the shaft. That poor tundra must have come from snow country. So much rust.
For those alloy wheels the torque should be 83 foot pounds for a first gen tundra. And good thing you are hand torqueing them. Using an impact wrench will make the rotors warp and and vibrate when braking.
Hi guys As always I am so thankful for your videos and high quality products. I have a small fleet of toyotas and chevys for all my family and kids. I have been a long time customer and you have never let me down. I have my first piece of constructive criticism to hopefully help make your videos even better. Listening to this one was actually painful. The young lady doing the work is great. She is very clear and concise in her instructions. The issiue is you have her vocals a bit quiet 🤫. I have to turn the volume up to hear clearly. When she used the press to knock out the bearing I thought I was bleeding from the ears OUCH!!!! Headphones can hurt. I am very protective of my hearing and that of my kids that I make watch these videos before we work on their cars. There is a simple answer to fix this problem. Most editing software already has it built-in. You need to activate or add a limiter. It will allow you to set a max volume to all sounds. When a horrible clank/pop like the one at about 16:51 happens it just turns that sound down for those sounds. Even better is a audio compressor as well. Generally the software scans the sound track to find the average sound level. Then it will increase the volume of the quiet dialog and turn down the areas that get too loud. Thanks again for all the great videos. If you have already fixed the stuff I mentioned great. If you want any additional input please contact me. I did leave a message with a customer service representative asking them to pass it on to the right person. Thanks John Hogan Bloomington MN
For anyone doing this job I would not recommend hitting the upper control arms to free the ball joint. Also you can get that dust cover off without damaging it so much. 🙂
Great explanations video instruction. My only recommendation is to edit the name of the video and add that this is for 4WD, my rear wheel drive is different and requires additional tools and hardware. Other than that spot on instruction!
Just a heads up, I followed this video with a stubborn wheel bearing, while using the rotor instead of a proper press plate to push the bearing out my rotor shattered. I'd recommend using proper equipment instead of short cuts!
i got a set of bearings from you for my 04 tundra and was quite disappointed. i ordered them because in the video you showed Japan bearings that looked like stock equivalent and that's what i wanted. i got instead one from Tawain and one that was not marked.
+Devin Darwin Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately this bearing kit is now made in Taiwan instead of Japan. Still a good deal, but not quite as good. The current bearing looks just like the one removed with a number that does not reference to anything.
Just did mine on a 2006 4runner and out in a doorman complete assembly from auto zone. Went on no issue and back together and cleaned everything prior to reinstall and now when I turn right I'm getting a noise. Any thoughts? Pulled tire back off and reinstalled bass and bend the dust shield and a little better bit still a noise.
Hi folks , I am attempting this on a 01 tacoma . I pressed the old bearing out of the spindle . The bearing came out but another piece came out with it ,it's the same diameter and about a half inch thick .Was that piece in front of the bearing or behind ? Ive never seen this before . Thanks.
GREAT video, big job. 1. In my opinion anyone doing this job should replace the rotors, a good set of rotors is under $100 2. At the 33 minute mark we can see that the caliper brake line is rusty and delaminating, it really should be replaced. It's a $11 part and the hose is already disconnected. 3. Are we suppose to grease under the dust cap? I have no idea, if anyone knows please let me know.
1A Auto: What is the size of those aluminum square blocks (press block)? I assume 2" x 2" x 6"? They should be deep (long) enough to get the hub out in one shot.
i had to use an 8 ft pipe with my 3' breaker bar and i just remounted the tire and put weight back on to get the that axle nut off what pain, and the abs sensor of course broke inside lol
I'm dreading this job I gotta do all 4 wheel bearings on my first gen tundra 380,000 miles with 35s on a "4 lift I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later. My driver rear wheel bearing blew out so bad it took my outer axle seal with it.
Thanks for showing how to do this. Total pain in the )$&;: job. The front rotors aren’t very deep when you are pressing out the hub. You have to keep building up the press blocks on top of the rotors to get the hub completely out. I eventually used an old rear drum with supports. Thanks again. Very few videos on this topic.
+Jose Martines Thanks for watching! When replacing the bearing on this vehicle some parts to consider replacing along side it would be the brake pads and rotors, upper and lower ball joints and the wheel hub. Just be sure to inspect the condition of your steering and suspension components beforehand to get an idea of what will possibly need to be replaced!
+Wilfredo Gonzalez Thanks for watching! It will vary based on the experience and tools that you have, but if you are doing this yourself you will want to set aside a day to do it!
+DAVIID GM Thanks for checking us out! That feature will differ depending on the vehicle and is not something we would be able to confirm with a VIN. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
+Terry Giovanakis ere are some indicators of a worn wheel hub bearing or other wheel-end damage: Snapping, clicking or popping. ... Grinding when the vehicle is in motion. ... Knocking or clunking. ... Humming, rumbling or growling. ... Wheel vibration and/or wobble. ... Shudder, shimmy or vibration at a constant speed.
@@1AAuto thank you but I was questioning the replacement of the hub not the bearing. I am replacing my bearing in my 97 4runner and need to know if replacing the hubs with the bearing is somewhat of a standard procedure or recommended or what. I am asking because every video i have watched including yours, the hub is replaced but nobody explains why. I carently doing this job so before I pressed the old hubs in the new bearings I would like to know. When do you need to replace the hub. When does it goes bad
9:41 What to do when the knuckle is not released, I hit it like the video and didn't come out, is not rust visible, I put some w40 and still not coming out. any idea what to do pls...
In My opinion you shouldn’t be using this method in the first place. It’s simple enough just to get a long enough two jaw puller to properly pop out the upper ball joint from the Upper control arm. Harbor freight sells a inexpensive one that you cannot only use for this job but several other Jobs and it saves you from Hitting on your suspension components with a big hammer
Also noticed that when the mechanic was torquing the 4 14mm bolts connecting the steering knuckle to the lower control arm, as she was applying torque to a couple of the nuts and the steering arm tie rods were moving while she was applying the torque. Not sure how you get an accurate torque reading this way, much less with the large pry bar flexing while attempting to get 173 ft. pounds on the axle nut. The jerky moves causing the flexing of the pry bar m,ay have made the torque wrench click, but I was taught to apply slow even pressure to a fastener and listen for the click. I also think the mechanic should have at least mentioned the rusty brake shield and that it should be replaced sooner rather than later.
Nice long Snap On ratchet but for that price I'd just get a Milwaukee 2763 or 67 even a Harbor Freight 1k ft lb cordless impact to proceed with the job makes it a lot quicker.But I understand the job can be done with basic hand tools except for the press.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I went t your website but i cant find the frount abs tone ring or the wheel bearing spacer for 06 toyota tundra?
Got the job done after watching this video about 3 times and taking notes. Great information here. I took my knuckle to a auto machine shop and had the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in for $75.00. I tried using a bearing tool from a tool rental shop (like the Hub Grappler) but gave up because even with a 3' extension on my breaker bar, I couldn't move the bearing more than about 1/4". The machine shop has a press and the right dies to make it work. total time was about 2 hrs of my labor plus trips to the machine shop. Cost ended up around $225.00 Thanks for this great video.
+John Andrew Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Thanks for the video I think overall it does a good job at explaining how to do this job. I Wanted to recommend a few tips on some things I noticed for anyone looking to do this job on their own.1. When taking the 10 mm bolt for the ABS sensor in and out be extremely careful this bolt should not be in there very tight and if you get on it too much while you loosen or tighten it you can easily break it off and then you’re gonna have to be faced with trying to drill it out. 2. I highly recommend not using a flat blade screwdriver under the ABS sensor to pry it out instead use a pair of pliers and grip it on the sides and twist and pull straight up instead of prying underneath it. In my opinion she was lucky she Didn’t break the ABS sensor trying to pry it out like that. I have seen and heard a lot of people breaking them trying to pry it out this way.3 surprising to see a shop use the BFH method In a how to video.When removing The upper ball joint it’s a lot easier and safer just to use a ball joint press than the BFH method and smacking your uca. Harbor freight sells a inexpensive two jaw puller that you can use on this job and also other various jobs making it worthwhile and a lot safer than hitting on your suspension components. 4. Highly recommend not hitting on the end of your cv axle stud with a hammer you can easily mess up the threads to where your axle nut is not going to be able to start again causing you a whole new set of problems. Simple enough just to use a rubber mallet or screw back on the axle nut and tap on that instead. 5. When loosening and tightening the axle nut screw back on a couple Lugnuts to protect the threads on the wheel studs. I noticed she uses a long prybar through the wheel studs but there is nothing to protect the threads on the wheel studs when she is tightening and loosening the axle nut again this could potentially damage the threads on the wheel studs causing you to have to replace them as well. Just some tips I have either had to learn myself the hard way or from others experiences. Take it or leave it hope this advice may make your job a little easier and potentially save you from causing some further damage.
OMG Toyota --- were your engineers on strike? This is the most complicated bearing replacement of any truck I've worked on! This should be criminal, especially since the front suspension already likes to pop lower balljoints
Hey everyone just wanted to throw in, I purchased a wheel bearing and hub kit from rockauto and it was a cheap bearing but still cost 70 bucks. The diameter of the bearing was not to oem spec and got to a point on the press where it was walking in and suddenly fell in for about half in inch. I removed the bearing because it was not a good fit and purchased a koyo from napa autoparts for about 80 bucks. The koyo by far was a much better bearing visually and after pressing it in went in as you would expect and no issues. If i ever do a bearing on this type of application i will use a koyo. Great video of R and I 1Aauto (especially the part where you support the bottom half of the lower race so you dont split the bearing when installing the hub), you get the point across of how to do the job which I think is a great source of info for the diy guy or gal.
+Kaleb Cantr Thanks for the feedback!
That was literally an OEM koyo bearing she had in her hand 🤣
The 1A Auto bearing you installed was made by Koyo, a top Japan bearing company and supplier to Toyota.
My tacoma has the exact same set up and all rusted up, bought used. had to drill out cotter pins, broke bolts, abs sensor and I thank this Mechanic for showing her techniques and torque specs.
Good video. First I heard the accent and was thinking "A fellow New England mechanic" then I saw the truck and thought "Oh yeah that's a New England vehicle"
I think you're my favorite presenter of all
just a tip, never hit the bare threaded end of a shaft with a hammer. Screw a nut flush onto the shaft and then do it. It will protect your threads on the shaft. That poor tundra must have come from snow country. So much rust.
I like the bungie cord to support the loose caliber, great idea
that rusty backing plate is driving me up the wall, please change it
Same. I change mine out with new OEM ones.
@@timtsuber7366 if yours look like that I wouldn't waste money on it because it's rotten and a backing plate is the least of your worries.
@@and7976 not quite my backing plates were rusted to s*** when I bought mine. But It had that new frame on it from a claimed recall so
No. It’s solid and it’s oem. Go away
For those alloy wheels the torque should be 83 foot pounds for a first gen tundra. And good thing you are hand torqueing them. Using an impact wrench will make the rotors warp and and vibrate when braking.
Yeah, I noticed that too... Like... No, mine only get torqued to 83 ft lbs.
So impressed your not using a non rusted truck unlike most.
Hi guys
As always I am so thankful for your videos and high quality products. I have a small fleet of toyotas and chevys for all my family and kids. I have been a long time customer and you have never let me down.
I have my first piece of constructive criticism to hopefully help make your videos even better. Listening to this one was actually painful. The young lady doing the work is great. She is very clear and concise in her instructions. The issiue is you have her vocals a bit quiet 🤫.
I have to turn the volume up to hear clearly. When she used the press to knock out the bearing I thought I was bleeding from the ears OUCH!!!!
Headphones can hurt.
I am very protective of my hearing and that of my kids that I make watch these videos before we work on their cars.
There is a simple answer to fix this problem. Most editing software already has it built-in.
You need to activate or add a limiter. It will allow you to set a max volume to all sounds. When a horrible clank/pop like the one at about 16:51 happens it just turns that sound down for those sounds.
Even better is a audio compressor as well.
Generally the software scans the sound track to find the average sound level. Then it will increase the volume of the quiet dialog and turn down the areas that get too loud.
Thanks again for all the great videos.
If you have already fixed the stuff I mentioned great. If you want any additional input please contact me. I did leave a message with a customer service representative asking them to pass it on to the right person.
Thanks
John Hogan
Bloomington MN
+John Hogan Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Do I need a spacer for a non ABS model? Did not come out with one should their be one in there?
For anyone doing this job I would not recommend hitting the upper control arms to free the ball joint. Also you can get that dust cover off without damaging it so much. 🙂
+Nathan B Thanks for the feedback!
Are y’all using a 12 ton press or a 20 ton?
Great explanations video instruction. My only recommendation is to edit the name of the video and add that this is for 4WD, my rear wheel drive is different and requires additional tools and hardware. Other than that spot on instruction!
How different? And what additional tools are needed?
You can use a bearing separator to clamp where the seal flanges and it will give you bigger ears to add support for hub removal on a press.
The frame is clean and the knuckle and other associated parts are rotted?
Where did you get the 4 square steel metal blocks the ones sitting on the rotor
I just had mine done. Timken bearings. And a grand to fix. It was making a horrible noise and the old ones were coming apart.
CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT'S SIZE THE FRAME ARBOR YOU ARE USING? THANK YOU
You are a great mechanic👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
So I take it you don’t need to pack the new bearing with grease? It must be pre-greased?
Just a heads up, I followed this video with a stubborn wheel bearing, while using the rotor instead of a proper press plate to push the bearing out my rotor shattered.
I'd recommend using proper equipment instead of short cuts!
I used my rotor it worked just fine but I put heat to my bearings to remove the old ones. And a 20 ton shop press
What a rusty mess! Having mine done today. 2004 Tundra. Thanks!
Nothing like what I have on a 2005 Toyota Tundra! Is there a video for just RWD, as I see now that in this video it has FWD.
i got a set of bearings from you for my 04 tundra and was quite disappointed. i ordered them because in the video you showed Japan bearings that looked like stock equivalent and that's what i wanted. i got instead one from Tawain and one that was not marked.
Funny the Bearing 1A Auto sent me looks exactly like the cheap one you pulled out. See how long that last.
This video was amazingly well done. Thank you.
+Devin Darwin Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Please how about a part number for the hub or is okay to use the old one? Thanks
Hello, Do you sell the spacer that was used in this video? The one that was used right after the abs ring? If so, Please share the link. Thank you
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately this bearing kit is now made in Taiwan instead of Japan. Still a good deal, but not quite as good. The current bearing looks just like the one removed with a number that does not reference to anything.
Just did mine on a 2006 4runner and out in a doorman complete assembly from auto zone. Went on no issue and back together and cleaned everything prior to reinstall and now when I turn right I'm getting a noise. Any thoughts? Pulled tire back off and reinstalled bass and bend the dust shield and a little better bit still a noise.
What's the size of the square block used to remove the the wheel hub? Thanks.
Where did you get the blocks for the press?
Is this the same for a sequoia
What capacity press do you need?
Where can I get all those metal blocks you have for your press ?
Would this be a similar installation to a 2005 Highlander?
Hi folks , I am attempting this on a 01 tacoma . I pressed the old bearing out of the spindle . The bearing came out but another piece came out with it ,it's the same diameter and about a half inch thick .Was that piece in front of the bearing or behind ? Ive never seen this before . Thanks.
Does anyone know the size of these lock rings/ snap on rings ? The bearing on my sequoia completely destroyed itself and destroyed the ring too
Sue is a Champion
Did the wheel bearing on my 2001 toyota sequoia 1st gen, pretty much the same press. thanks
Does the dust grease cap get packed with grease like on old cars?
Nice job lady, good clean work
Awesome video. Do you install bearing either side?
GREAT video, big job.
1. In my opinion anyone doing this job should replace the rotors, a good set of rotors is under $100
2. At the 33 minute mark we can see that the caliper brake line is rusty and delaminating, it really should be replaced. It's a $11 part and the hose is already disconnected.
3. Are we suppose to grease under the dust cap? I have no idea, if anyone knows please let me know.
1A Auto: What is the size of those aluminum square blocks (press block)? I assume 2" x 2" x 6"? They should be deep (long) enough to get the hub out in one shot.
what size is the ball joint tool that you used to press out the bearing?
I ordered this kit from 1a auto and I got the low grade bearing with just one serial number on it
Can you tell me what this part number 43515 is
i had to use an 8 ft pipe with my 3' breaker bar and i just remounted the tire and put weight back on to get the that axle nut off what pain, and the abs sensor of course broke inside lol
I'm dreading this job I gotta do all 4 wheel bearings on my first gen tundra 380,000 miles with 35s on a "4 lift I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later. My driver rear wheel bearing blew out so bad it took my outer axle seal with it.
26:23 - "Almost too easy" Me - sucking my thumb in the fetal position, with my stuffed animal and under my favorite blankey. Nicely done! 😎
Thanks for showing how to do this. Total pain in the )$&;: job. The front rotors aren’t very deep when you are pressing out the hub. You have to keep building up the press blocks on top of the rotors to get the hub completely out. I eventually used an old rear drum with supports. Thanks again. Very few videos on this topic.
21:42
You can use a bearing separator to clamp where the seal flanges and it will give you bigger ears to add support for removal.
The structure is trashed, completely rotted with rust. The bearing is the least of the problems
I was waiting for cuss words after that dust plate 😂
are the wheel studs standard wheel studs? I have extended studs and will have to move them to the new wheel hubs.
Now I know why the cost is so high to replace 1 of my wheel bearing’s. I had no idea there is so much to this job.
Do you need to align truck after this install?
+Sonya Enix It is recommended after any suspension parts are replaced to get an alignment.
You should replace the dust cover since it was rusting really bad.
Makes it look so easy👍
Other than the bearing what other new parts were installed so I know what to order
+Jose Martines Thanks for watching! When replacing the bearing on this vehicle some parts to consider replacing along side it would be the brake pads and rotors, upper and lower ball joints and the wheel hub. Just be sure to inspect the condition of your steering and suspension components beforehand to get an idea of what will possibly need to be replaced!
Is there an updated tool list? You left a few out
Excellent! Thank you! Do RWD 3rd Gen 4runners have the same 35mm axle nut?
No
This can be done a lot quicker with an air hammer (for all the bolts and the hub tool) and a hub tamer type of tool. No need to remove the hub at all.
+Pedro Talavera Thanks for the suggestions! We try to use basic tools most customers would have available to do them to do our repairs.
Yeah like the press
Is there much difference doing this on a 2007 Toyota Tundra SR5 4 wheel?
Your whole hub assembly might be the bolt on style. I know the lexus GX470 steering knuckles have bolt in wheel hub assembles you might get lucky
Hello how long take to do that job bearing end bushing
+Wilfredo Gonzalez Thanks for watching! It will vary based on the experience and tools that you have, but if you are doing this yourself you will want to set aside a day to do it!
Do you know if a tundra 2006 6 cylinder has abs sensor on the right side?
+DAVIID GM Thanks for checking us out! That feature will differ depending on the vehicle and is not something we would be able to confirm with a VIN. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
perfect ,well done .
+Xoshnaw Mahmud Thank you!
I was gonna pay to get it done, I got to do it now.
+Carlos Avalos Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
GREAT INFO!! HOW MANY TON SHOP PRESS IS THAT? 😁😁
20 ton from harbor freight
Why do you put on the bearing without grease
Can you please explain why are you replacing the hub? What was wrong with the old one ?
+Terry Giovanakis ere are some indicators of a worn wheel hub bearing or other wheel-end damage:
Snapping, clicking or popping. ...
Grinding when the vehicle is in motion. ...
Knocking or clunking. ...
Humming, rumbling or growling. ...
Wheel vibration and/or wobble. ...
Shudder, shimmy or vibration at a constant speed.
@@1AAuto thank you but I was questioning the replacement of the hub not the bearing. I am replacing my bearing in my 97 4runner and need to know if replacing the hubs with the bearing is somewhat of a standard procedure or recommended or what. I am asking because every video i have watched including yours, the hub is replaced but nobody explains why. I carently doing this job so before I pressed the old hubs in the new bearings I would like to know. When do you need to replace the hub. When does it goes bad
Is this for the 4x4 model ? I didn’t have to remove an axle from the hub like here ?
Yes
I need those square metal blocks..... at least they are putting that harbor freight press to work
Great detailed video!
+Rodney Wilkerson Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Also part number 43501j what is the difference to part number 43502j
9:41 What to do when the knuckle is not released, I hit it like the video and didn't come out, is not rust visible, I put some w40 and still not coming out. any idea what to do pls...
In My opinion you shouldn’t be using this method in the first place. It’s simple enough just to get a long enough two jaw puller to properly pop out the upper ball joint from the Upper control arm. Harbor freight sells a inexpensive one that you cannot only use for this job but several other Jobs and it saves you from Hitting on your suspension components with a big hammer
I absolutely love the fact that it’s a female working on this
AGRDEZCO MUCHO ESTE VIDEO.
Great video thank
I think a hub tamer tool could do this without removing the knuckle
Thanks
good job madam
Definitely easier since you're replacing a brand new hub and bearing. That thing been in and out a few times.
How about using an impact gun??
Also noticed that when the mechanic was torquing the 4 14mm bolts connecting the steering knuckle to the lower control arm, as she was applying torque to a couple of the nuts and the steering arm tie rods were moving while she was applying the torque. Not sure how you get an accurate torque reading this way, much less with the large pry bar flexing while attempting to get 173 ft. pounds on the axle nut. The jerky moves causing the flexing of the pry bar m,ay have made the torque wrench click, but I was taught to apply slow even pressure to a fastener and listen for the click.
I also think the mechanic should have at least mentioned the rusty brake shield and that it should be replaced sooner rather than later.
Band clamp would be better for brake line fix
What a pro !
+Brian Bennett Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I need the video for a manual transmission and manual locking hub this video dose me no good
1A bearings any good?
Our 1A house brand bearings are made to the same specifications as the OE parts. Thanks for watching ! +Adam yamaha
@@1AAuto who makes them? They dont say koyo or timken
It’s difficult to press out the hub. I see you put a rotor under with bricks for more room. But the hub bottoms out
Nice work
Nice long Snap On ratchet but for that price I'd just get a Milwaukee 2763 or 67 even a Harbor Freight 1k ft lb cordless impact to proceed with the job makes it a lot quicker.But I understand the job can be done with basic hand tools except for the press.
+Gshock714 Thanks for checking us out!
None of hobo frieghts tools are gonna out out 1k of tq. Not even my 1/2 dewalt with 5amp battery does that.
Great video.
Zero grease whatsoever on a newly installed bearing at minimum soak the bearing in oil before install ;_)
How much is of labor
+Ismael Lopez It depends on the shop you are going to.