There are lots of ways to do canopies, this is the easiest. Acrylics are more forgiving than enamels so removing any over spill with a toothpick really makes a difference. Thank you for sharing 😀👍
I did try this and I now have a new way to do complex canopies without fear of scratching or cutting the canopy during masking. My own results on this same canopy (Tamiya Zero 1/48th scale) are just so fulfilling .. very pleased indeed. Oh and Ive only been modelling for 55 years ... I win at being the slow learner.
Firstly , terrific video , started back modelling during pandemic, easier when your retired! Secondly nobody warned me about Tamiya thin cement and canopies. Now about to start a Sunderland flying boat “ Italaeri” . My old hands aren’t as steady but looking forward to to trying your method. Many thanks. Ed.
Thank you so much for showing this amazing technique! After ruining one canopy with masking tape not cut at the proper edge and xacto cut marks on the clear windows, I thought I'd never be able to paint a canopy properly. First attempt at modelling by the way. After watching your video and using your toothpick technique, I ended up with a perfectly painted canopy. Hard to be precise using the paintbrush with seventy-two year old fingers and eyes, but the cleanup with the toothpick was magical!! Thanks very much!
this technique works out so well when using tamiya acrylic. i remember as kid doing this and completely forgot all these years later. struggled with maskol and got frustrated. youtube search led me here and old memories returned. working on this very same kit as well. the lines are so fine and this works perfectly. thanks for this video.
Hey. Thanks for the tooth pick clean up idea. I hand painted some canopies in the past and tried scraping with other things. Never thought to use a tooth pick. I revisited some older builds with the toothpick and did some decent clean up. Thanks.
Thank you. My first model after returning to the hobby after years was --- the Tamiya 1:48 Zero. A professional modeler told me to hand paint the canopy and you showed me the way!
lol..when I was watching this dude I was thinking exactly the same thing and when I saw your comment I laughed!...and if you notice he is using a wine cork...hahaha
Thank you for this video. It's an old one, but still out there. It is very good to see how to paint by hand. I do not have air brush. And only use acrylic paint. So you can see how helpful this was. Thanks again
Water-base paints make a mechanical bond. They basically just stick to the surface which is why they can be scraped off so easily. Lacquer will make a chemical bond - the solvent in it actually melts the plastic which makes it much harder to remove. Even if you get the paint off, the plastic will be damaged underneath because it was melted.
Funnily enough I was thinking about softening the wood likewise. Possibly shaving it to a chisel point as you can for burnishing tape. Back in the day we would use this and cardboard to burnish brass on hard to reach cap badges etc.
Color note- I work on jet fighters, mostly the A-10, but some others like the F-16, F-15, and a few Navy F/A-18 and Marine AV-8Bs. The canopy interiors on those are black over primer (usually chromate green/yellow). The note on that is the black is usually very faded. I would recommend using NATO black instead of Flat black, and maybe lighten it a bit more to a charcoal grey.
A sharpened length of sprue works wonders for stuff like this. Wood has a tendency to be too soft and splinter at the end. Have been using this trick for years... Try it!
for canopies i find using a very fine dried-up brush works well. I accidentally discovered this a few years ago when I accidentally used enamel paints and couldn't clean the paint out of the brush
I pant Sellotape. then cut strips the width of the canopy frames and stick them over the canopy. Then a couple of cotes of clear or thinned gloss varnish over the hole canopy. Lastly carefully paint over the very slightly razed Sellotape canopy frame [if model is overall mat] and were done. Works every time and you get a real sharp looking canopy frame.
I have had two models so far that have come with the canopies already painted from factory. The only thing is that they are black in color and you have no option for color. You have very steady hands,I am almost 70 and my hands are a bit shakey. I take many breaks. Very good tutorial. I found with myself I had to slow down and take my time as I tend to want to rush it. Thank You for this video it is excellent.
Great video - wish my hands were that steady! Dampening (not wetting!) the tip of the cocktail stick with water or thinner (depending on what paint you use) can help remove stubborn spots of paint without having to press hard and risk damage to the surface.
Good video.Masking canopies fills me with dread as i have not been at it long. It seems some take so long to mask up that you could of learnt to paint it well freehand in the time it used up! Some might find the cork too small to hold or seat in your palm comfortably,if so,use a small jar plus lid or similar.Also don't thin the paint too much guys or it bleeds over the canopy.
Really useful and interesting tutorial. I always provide the canopies frames with two colors as well (interior and exterior), but thinking of the gleam of the transparent plastic, at times I tried painting the inner side of the canopies in the interior color, so that if you see such frames through the oposite site, the gleam of the transparent plastic does not go through the painted-on line. However, painting on the inner side of canopies is way more difficult than doing it all from outside. And what annoys me the most about painting on canopies are drops squeezing and lines turning out thicker than needed.
I've not ever tried painting the interior before, most of my subjects I feel are too small for the glare to be noticed. But I'm going to build a few 1:24th scale kits and I think that I might need to do that on those. I think I would use a masking set. I don't think I could handle hand brushing it on.
I watched this video after making a disaster out of a nicely built DeHavilland Mosquito model (it has a very difficult canopy). I was about to give up when I saw this. I see that its alright to just paint the canopy. I have ruined my last clear canopy. I will be using this technique going forward.
Absolutely LOVE that StarFleet delta logo. Found your video, and I bit the bullet today on a well...a simple Revell 1/48 Zero (#5267) as practice. It's almost a "shake-'n-bake" simple kit, but I gave it a bit of love anyway. Used your technique to satisfactory results (MY skills, but good practice). My compliments to the "chef".
I've just tried this and it went OK. I think next time I'll apply a thin black wash over the whole canopy first to show the frames more clearly, then paint the frames.
Seeing this video a couple of days too late...just gave up on masking a Tamiya Zero canopy the other day- just like that one . I figured out just that technique- hand stripe one frame section at a time with a fine Tamiya brush. Worked out so well that I'm probably just going to do them this way, as I brush paint anyway.
I've used the toothpick idea also,came up with that idea myself basically,didn't know about sanding it for the chisel effect though?,thanks for the great tip,cheers
All good buddy,i have been doing a few Pacific theatre US aircraft of late myself,have used a toothpick to apply the paint to canopies actually,takes a steady hand though but,cheers
Many thanks for that. I have just completed my fourth model since re starting after 30 years. It was a PZL37a in 1:72 and masking and spraying was interesting. Immediate lesson here was the black base coat (it is slightly translucent, just won't show it in bright light). You are correct about black interiors to frames, this is to avoid the reflection back to the Perspex. I use lacquer mostly and it appears to chip and scratch off similarly so I will try this. I wonder if keying the frame carefully would help produce a better surface and a sharper edge? Thankfully the company who made my last one are sending me some spare canopies to practice on. I intend building other versions so if the practice works....pre painted canopies😁. Thanks again, more tips for the tool box👍
The gentleman you learned the toothpick method from does it the same way I do. I discovered by accident really when I was a kid. I didn’t own an airbrush so everything was painted with a brush. I didn’t even know such a thing as an airbrush existed. Anyway, I was very surprised someone else cleaned up canopy frames the same way I did. The reason I say that is I’m not very good at all at painting models, so I figured I was the only one that did it that way. My thinking was everyone else had much better ways of painting canopy frames. Turns out I’m not the only one that does it that way. As for your steady hand, I wish I had that capability. My hand shakes like I’m about to be hung. Anyway, the way I mask canopy frames now is to stick the tape on the window to be covered, draw the edge of the framework with a sharp pencil, pull the tape off, cut on the lines and stick the tape back in place. Once it’s all masked then I airbrush the frames. Last, the last thing I want to do or imply is me thinking I had invented the trick using a toothpick. Like I said earlier, I just assumed no one else had the same problems painting canopy frames as I did. I learned to build models on my own so I doubt very seriously if I build models the right way. Not even today. I’m pretty sure I’m doing some things wrong. It does make me feel better knowing you and that other gentleman do the same thing. I’ve seen his work and he does a terrific job. Anyway, thank you for sharing your skills and how you paint canopy frames sometimes.
Interior color on the frame depends on the country. Old modeling trink, add a very small drop of liquid dishwashing soap to the bottle of Acrylic paint will break the surface tension of the paint.
Can you dip the canopy in Klear after you've done this?....I find that the acrylic will wear away slightly due to hand traffic and wondered if Klear would seal it in better
I also need to add: Just an observation -- you TH-cam video makers have just the *best* fingernails for these close-up shots! A bit humbling when I look at my own...guess it's time for my manicure!! Cheers, and Carry On!!
Thanks for that Tim, I'm pretty conscious about that to be honest. It is a bit embarrassing when my Mum commented that my fingers were nice than my sisters :/
@@rebelsatcloudnine your sister was probably even more embarrassed! I was a soldier for 22 years before I trained as a Registered Nurse. I had hard calloused hands until inbexane a Nirse and have to wash my hands many many times a day. Now I must moisturise my hands to protect the skin. Fast forward until one night I had all my mates over for cards, beers and movies and I started to use hand cream after I washed my hands...........! I love your video’s by the way 👍🏼 Thank you. Ian
Thank you for a great video. I have never seen this and find your instructions very useful. I have just one question. After painting the canopy how do you add a varnish when there are no masks? Thank you in advance for your reply. All the best! Pavel
That Tamiya brush looks awesome for this. I have a JU-87 ready to finish but I haven’t paintet the canopy because I’m too afraid I’ll mess it up, also because the glue makes the clear plastic get all cloudy on the inside and it’s irreversible.
For gluing clear parts, I've used white glue. I later on bought a great product called Microscale "Krystal Klear". It's like a really strong white glue.
Both, I tried getting through a hobby shop. They kept lying to me saying that it would come in stock next week. I finally had enough and ordered it online. You can see it here directly from their website. I also did a video "working with clear parts" where I use this stuff. www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-9&Category_Code=FINPROD
Does humbrol maskol work on canopies? I’m hesitant to use it because it has a seriour stench from the bottle and I don’t know what it might do to clear plastic.
I've used it a few times to mask an entire canopy, but I've never got it to work on each individual panel like they advertise. I've also heard that it will turn a canopy purple, but I left it on one canopy for over half a year and that didn't happen. I agree, the stuff really stinks, but it dries fast.
I have always problem in masking canopies and painted them with a cut brush. the had is so short so doesn't spread and excess the metal part. then clean the excess with toothpick moistened with thinner.
This is so fabulous. When building airplanes I generally tend towards 1/48 and larger...(I also am big into Science Fiction; particularly *Star Trek* and of course *those* scales vary wildly!!). Masking fine detail can be a real chore and pain. But, just-for-fun and giggles I have a 1/72 Academy Stuka, *AND* a 1/48 Revell Stuka to build side-by-side for comparison (I know...Academy Vs. Revell? OK, not a fair fight, but...it's supposed to be a "fun" hobby though, right??). So, the thought of (gasp!) hand-painting fine lines? Never thought to attempt such an impossible feat -- until now!! Thanks for this video, it has re-energized me. Sitting here looking at a stack of kit boxes, and projects in-process but un-finished? Just the kick in the butt that I needed!!! (LOL)...
I agree with you there Tim, but thanks to Rob and his method I've been able to paint up a few canopies with more ease and relaxation. I've had a few times with the hobby running into situations that are challenging a first until I can find a productive solution. I hope that this works out for you with your Stuka kits, those green house canopies are daunting at the best of times. I really need to get back into building a few Star Trek kits. I keep picking them up and not doing anything with them, but I get the most enjoyment out of sci-fi subjects lately.
I've used this trick also but if I have the time I will mask them. Makes the lines crisper. P.s. if I do need to brush paint I would rather use Vallejo white tops or the Revell aqua.
I find I use Tamiya paints a bit more lately.. and as you say they dry quite quickly. I need to stock up on a few more shades, I think.. :) Yikes, the look of concentration on my face... almost scary!! :) Still, the method works... and thanks for using a short clip from my video! :) It is a good method, glad you found it is working for you as well.. as you said, the key is to make sure the paint is thoroughly cured / dried.. :)
If it wasn't for your tutorial a lot of my money would be going to Eduard and Montex to pay for window masks :D Thanks for letting me use your video, my Dad was the one who got me into model building as a kid, but your channel was the one that really got me invested in the hobby, so I've really got to thank you for that :D
Hello again. Been building a Lancaster and there is no way in hell its getting masked. Tried fine line tape and fluid but neither works well enough. I don’t dip but polish so paint adhesion is less. It is possible to carefully abrade the frames with a fine flat sanding stick to help restore polished edges (the definition wasn’t great to start with). I have been using this method to “tidy” where I have removed masking fluid and with lacquer it seems to work well. I tend to chisel point the sticks to create a less abrasive edge if that helps anyone but again, a really helpful video bud. CBA
My optics specialist advises not to clean my glasses with paper towel, because the paper is made out of wood and the wood contains minerals that are harder than acrylic glasses :) Best to try the toothpick on a test piece of canopy first to see if the tip contains a hard mineral. But great job on your canopy, very well done.
No I did not. These are straight out of the package, and once they are painted and ready for the model all I do is clean them with Novus as I find this works better than Future.
Very nice job, great instruction. I've never had any luck with canopies, but that was a long time ago, using bigger brushes and enamel. Acrylic is much more forgiving, but the cork holder and the toothpick cleaner are great tips. Acrylic is water based so why did you have to buy acrylic thinner? What is that stuff if not just water?
Thanks, Carl, I hope the video works out for you. You are right about the Acrylics, but Tamiya is an Acrylic Lacquer, it's not a true water based Acrylic like Vallejo, Formula P3, or Citadel. I've used water with the Tamiya Acrylics, but I've found that they react better with Tamiya brand thinner.Also there are many acrylics that will react poorly with water, as there are treatment chemicals in the water that some acrylic paints don't like.
Anyone any idea?...I have the Beaufighter revel 1/32...I dipped the canopys in Klear and a few weeks later the canopys went cloudy/foggy...It hadn't happened before to any of my other kits...but I cant seem to get rid of it which spoils the model actually...Ive tried dipping the canopys in windolene as someone suggested to get rid of the Klear...Not sure what to do..any help would be appreciated...Thanks
I'm not sure why that's happened either, but I've used Mr. Paint Remover, I've even got a video demonstration of it on my channel. It's a really excellent product and I've used it a few times on clear parts and it doesn't damage them.
@@rebelsatcloudnine Thanks for the reply...I've posted this question on a few canopy videos and I'll see what folks have to say...the Mr.Paint Remover sounds like a good option to get back to square one with it...I'm still not sure whether it's actually the canopy of the Klear which is the issue...Good community the modeling community...Big Thanks again
@@lewistaylor1965 No worries, I'm not sure why the Klear went foggy, I've never heard of that happening before. It could have been many small things as far as I can tell.
You may use extra thin glues from Tamya and Mr.Hobby. There is also a special Revell glue for clear parts. I also have a habit of ruining the canopies, learnt the hard way that these glues really help.
Great video. Iv'e only have done a few planes How ever I do mostly cars and trucks . I think this will be very helpful on window glass especially on the trim area , thanks
No problem, thanks for watching Roger. I'm going to try this year and build a car or 2. It's a side of modelling that I really want to get the hang of, one day try a motorbike.
I have essential tremor and am trying to get more in to scale modeling because I like torturing myself I guess. Only thing that stops the shaking for a bit is alcohol. 🍻 Enjoyed the video. Relaxing music too. I’m all about the bass.
I'm sorry to hear that. I think that's interesting that alcohol steadies your nerves. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video, I wish I knew of some way to help you out.
Use of the cork to hold the canopy that is an idea on looking forward to trying. Thank you for your sharing.
There are lots of ways to do canopies, this is the easiest. Acrylics are more forgiving than enamels so removing any over spill with a toothpick really makes a difference. Thank you for sharing 😀👍
I did try this and I now have a new way to do complex canopies without fear of scratching or cutting the canopy during masking. My own results on this same canopy (Tamiya Zero 1/48th scale) are just so fulfilling .. very pleased indeed. Oh and Ive only been modelling for 55 years ... I win at being the slow learner.
That's great Geoff, I'm glad to hear this :)
Firstly , terrific video , started back modelling during pandemic, easier when your retired! Secondly nobody warned me about Tamiya thin cement and canopies.
Now about to start a Sunderland flying boat “ Italaeri” . My old hands aren’t as steady but looking forward to to trying your method.
Many thanks.
Ed.
Thanks Ed, best of luck with that canopy, I'm certain your Sunderland will be excellent!
Thank you so much for showing this amazing technique! After ruining one canopy with masking tape not cut at the proper edge and xacto cut marks on the clear windows, I thought I'd never be able to paint a canopy properly. First attempt at modelling by the way. After watching your video and using your toothpick technique, I ended up with a perfectly painted canopy. Hard to be precise using the paintbrush with seventy-two year old fingers and eyes, but the cleanup with the toothpick was magical!! Thanks very much!
That is wonderful, I'm glad that this video was so helpful for you :)
Great trick with the toothpick, thx so much, I was about to give up when I discovered this tutorial
Just used this technique on my four piece Stuka cockpit....WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!
Most informative and helpful . After years as an AFV modeller l am new to aircraft modelling and this tutorial is most useful . Thanks.
this technique works out so well when using tamiya acrylic. i remember as kid doing this and completely forgot all these years later. struggled with maskol and got frustrated. youtube search led me here and old memories returned. working on this very same kit as well. the lines are so fine and this works perfectly. thanks for this video.
That's awesome, I'm glad to hear that :D
Hey. Thanks for the tooth pick clean up idea. I hand painted some canopies in the past and tried scraping with other things. Never thought to use a tooth pick. I revisited some older builds with the toothpick and did some decent clean up. Thanks.
Thank you. My first model after returning to the hobby after years was --- the Tamiya 1:48 Zero. A professional modeler told me to hand paint the canopy and you showed me the way!
Very helpful, thank you!
It took me an additional liter of Scotch to get such a steady hand
lol..when I was watching this dude I was thinking exactly the same thing and when I saw your comment I laughed!...and if you notice he is using a wine cork...hahaha
No way my hand is steady enough for that
Thank you for this video. It's an old one, but still out there. It is very good to see how to paint by hand. I do not have air brush. And only use acrylic paint. So you can see how helpful this was. Thanks again
Doing the Airfix 1/72 B25 MkII and did this. Worked out really well, very pleased. Thanks.
Awesome, I'm glad to hear that :)
Water-base paints make a mechanical bond. They basically just stick to the surface which is why they can be scraped off so easily. Lacquer will make a chemical bond - the solvent in it actually melts the plastic which makes it much harder to remove. Even if you get the paint off, the plastic will be damaged underneath because it was melted.
Interesting, this explains a lot when I tried to strip lacquer paint off of an Airfix kit.
awesome tutorial, I actually moisten the tip of the toothpick by holding between my lips. a little bit of moisture can prevent scratching
how can you see the canopy with it so close to your lips?
Funnily enough I was thinking about softening the wood likewise. Possibly shaving it to a chisel point as you can for burnishing tape. Back in the day we would use this and cardboard to burnish brass on hard to reach cap badges etc.
Thank you so much. I'm gonna mess it up.. but this is helpful.
My son just bought a bunch of 40+ year old kits
Thank you and live long and prosper
Dif tor he smusma.
Very good video, well explain. Greetings from Portugal 😉👍
Very good and practical technique , easy to learn , thank you for sharing
私たち日本の「零戦」が、こんなに愛情をもって、製作して下さって感激しました💛
フリーハンドの技術が、本当に素晴らしいですね～(=^・^=)
Color note- I work on jet fighters, mostly the A-10, but some others like the F-16, F-15, and a few Navy F/A-18 and Marine AV-8Bs. The canopy interiors on those are black over primer (usually chromate green/yellow). The note on that is the black is usually very faded. I would recommend using NATO black instead of Flat black, and maybe lighten it a bit more to a charcoal grey.
Great tutorial. Thank you. I wonder if black Vallejo primer would work just as well or better than Tamiya flat black paint.
A sharpened length of sprue works wonders for stuff like this. Wood has a tendency to be too soft and splinter at the end. Have been using this trick for years... Try it!
Brilliant!
Sharpened bit of spru great idea 😀👍
Wonderful video great technique in video making and the instruction and little tips as you painted were very informative.
Try Tiamia maskol comes in a bottle with brush adaptor
I must say, you have very steady hands my friend.
You should see my Dad, he's had a lot of practice he makes it look easy. Great icon picture by the way :)
lol, i could say the same about my dad! I guess we both learn from the old breed
for canopies i find using a very fine dried-up brush works well. I accidentally discovered this a few years ago when I accidentally used enamel paints and couldn't clean the paint out of the brush
Very nice, thanks for the video, always love your videos!
I pant Sellotape. then cut strips the width of the canopy frames and stick them over the canopy. Then a couple of cotes of clear or thinned gloss varnish over the hole canopy. Lastly carefully paint over the very slightly razed Sellotape canopy frame [if model is overall mat] and were done.
Works every time and you get a real sharp looking canopy frame.
Very good to see this done in detail......my questions all answered.....thanx!
Hi Ed, I'm glad to hear that this was helpful :D
Sharpening the toothpick!
That's the deal.
Almost lost you at one moment but - great vid.
Thank you
Thanks for posting.
Great upload, thanks, I tried the toothpick method and it really does work. Cheers :)
Thanks Nick, I'm glad to hear that it was successful for you :)
This looks easier than masking with tape or liquid mask.
IT IS!!! I did it on the same canopy and am just delighted with the results.
I have had two models so far that have come with the canopies already painted from factory. The only thing is that they are black in color and you have no option for color. You have very steady hands,I am almost 70 and my hands are a bit shakey. I take many breaks. Very good tutorial. I found with myself I had to slow down and take my time as I tend to want to rush it. Thank You for this video it is excellent.
What you do is Art called pinstriping ...Not many people have steady hands to Be able for this way of canopi painting!!! Very impressiv!!! :)
Nice tutorial, i don't have the patience to mask. I will try it tomorrow and let you know how I do.
That's awesome Steve, best of luck :)
Great video - wish my hands were that steady! Dampening (not wetting!) the tip of the cocktail stick with water or thinner (depending on what paint you use) can help remove stubborn spots of paint without having to press hard and risk damage to the surface.
Excellent video. Thanks!
Brilliant solution ! Be sure the paint is absolutely dry though! Thnx for the video
Good video.Masking canopies fills me with dread as i have not been at it long. It seems some take so long to mask up that you could of learnt to paint it well freehand in the time it used up! Some might find the cork too small to hold or seat in your palm comfortably,if so,use a small jar plus lid or similar.Also don't thin the paint too much guys or it bleeds over the canopy.
Thanks!
No problem! :)
Really useful and interesting tutorial.
I always provide the canopies frames with two colors as well (interior and exterior), but thinking of the gleam of the transparent plastic, at times I tried painting the inner side of the canopies in the interior color, so that if you see such frames through the oposite site, the gleam of the transparent plastic does not go through the painted-on line. However, painting on the inner side of canopies is way more difficult than doing it all from outside.
And what annoys me the most about painting on canopies are drops squeezing and lines turning out thicker than needed.
I've not ever tried painting the interior before, most of my subjects I feel are too small for the glare to be noticed. But I'm going to build a few 1:24th scale kits and I think that I might need to do that on those. I think I would use a masking set. I don't think I could handle hand brushing it on.
I watched this video after making a disaster out of a nicely built DeHavilland Mosquito model (it has a very difficult canopy). I was about to give up when I saw this. I see that its alright to just paint the canopy. I have ruined my last clear canopy. I will be using this technique going forward.
Thanks for the tutorial Rebel ! I am looking forward to trying this out !
No problem, best of luck with it :D
Very good technique. A Zero canopy is always a challenge.
Best regards.
Great tip using cocktail sticks.
Absolutely LOVE that StarFleet delta logo. Found your video, and I bit the bullet today on a well...a simple Revell 1/48 Zero (#5267) as practice. It's almost a "shake-'n-bake" simple kit, but I gave it a bit of love anyway. Used your technique to satisfactory results (MY skills, but good practice). My compliments to the "chef".
I've just tried this and it went OK. I think next time I'll apply a thin black wash over the whole canopy first to show the frames more clearly, then paint the frames.
What kit is that that gives you a spare canopy? That’s brilliant!
Wow! that has really helped me man :) Now I can paint the Kates canopy with no problems
I'm looking forward to seeing all of that in action :D
I enjoy your videos, thank you for posting , they're always helpful and encouraging
Thanks Trevor, hope the video can be useful.
Seeing this video a couple of days too late...just gave up on masking a Tamiya Zero canopy the other day- just like that one . I figured out just that technique- hand stripe one frame section at a time with a fine Tamiya brush. Worked out so well that I'm probably just going to do them this way, as I brush paint anyway.
what's the bass line song in background? man!! makes your tutorial so chillout!!!
Thank you. I've had a real problem with my canopies. It really bothers me. I'm gonna try this method. I hope it works with enamels. Again thank you
Thanks, I have struggled with painting canopies. This technique is going to be useful.
Me too, I'm glad that this can help you out.
Great video. Now I'm totally confused but equally determined to forge ahead. I'm gonna try everything and this is one of the best ideas with acrylic.
I've used the toothpick idea also,came up with that idea myself basically,didn't know about sanding it for the chisel effect though?,thanks for the great tip,cheers
No problem Malcolm, thanks for watching.
All good buddy,i have been doing a few Pacific theatre US aircraft of late myself,have used a toothpick to apply the paint to canopies actually,takes a steady hand though but,cheers
Does this work with enamel?
Many thanks for that. I have just completed my fourth model since re starting after 30 years. It was a PZL37a in 1:72 and masking and spraying was interesting. Immediate lesson here was the black base coat (it is slightly translucent, just won't show it in bright light). You are correct about black interiors to frames, this is to avoid the reflection back to the Perspex. I use lacquer mostly and it appears to chip and scratch off similarly so I will try this. I wonder if keying the frame carefully would help produce a better surface and a sharper edge? Thankfully the company who made my last one are sending me some spare canopies to practice on. I intend building other versions so if the practice works....pre painted canopies😁. Thanks again, more tips for the tool box👍
The gentleman you learned the toothpick method from does it the same way I do. I discovered by accident really when I was a kid. I didn’t own an airbrush so everything was painted with a brush. I didn’t even know such a thing as an airbrush existed. Anyway, I was very surprised someone else cleaned up canopy frames the same way I did. The reason I say that is I’m not very good at all at painting models, so I figured I was the only one that did it that way. My thinking was everyone else had much better ways of painting canopy frames. Turns out I’m not the only one that does it that way. As for your steady hand, I wish I had that capability. My hand shakes like I’m about to be hung. Anyway, the way I mask canopy frames now is to stick the tape on the window to be covered, draw the edge of the framework with a sharp pencil, pull the tape off, cut on the lines and stick the tape back in place. Once it’s all masked then I airbrush the frames. Last, the last thing I want to do or imply is me thinking I had invented the trick using a toothpick. Like I said earlier, I just assumed no one else had the same problems painting canopy frames as I did. I learned to build models on my own so I doubt very seriously if I build models the right way. Not even today. I’m pretty sure I’m doing some things wrong. It does make me feel better knowing you and that other gentleman do the same thing. I’ve seen his work and he does a terrific job. Anyway, thank you for sharing your skills and how you paint canopy frames sometimes.
My hands would shake when I was applying decals, and doing other tedious tasks. Smoking a little marijuana would take care of that problem. Try it!
My son smokes that stuff. I may have to try it and thank you for your video and response.
Interior color on the frame depends on the country. Old modeling trink, add a very small drop of liquid dishwashing soap to the bottle of Acrylic paint will break the surface tension of the paint.
Can you dip the canopy in Klear after you've done this?....I find that the acrylic will wear away slightly due to hand traffic and wondered if Klear would seal it in better
Do you put the Pledge/Future/Klear on before or after you do this to clean up the "glass"?
I also need to add: Just an observation -- you TH-cam video makers have just the *best* fingernails for these close-up shots!
A bit humbling when I look at my own...guess it's time for my manicure!! Cheers, and Carry On!!
Thanks for that Tim, I'm pretty conscious about that to be honest. It is a bit embarrassing when my Mum commented that my fingers were nice than my sisters :/
@@rebelsatcloudnine your sister was probably even more embarrassed!
I was a soldier for 22 years before I trained as a Registered Nurse. I had hard calloused hands until inbexane a Nirse and have to wash my hands many many times a day. Now I must moisturise my hands to protect the skin. Fast forward until one night I had all my mates over for cards, beers and movies and I started to use hand cream after I washed my hands...........!
I love your video’s by the way 👍🏼 Thank you. Ian
Thank you for a great video. I have never seen this and find your instructions very useful. I have just one question. After painting the canopy how do you add a varnish when there are no masks? Thank you in advance for your reply. All the best! Pavel
Good to see the channel back!
Thanks Man. I haven't really got any videos completed but I've got some stuff on the way :)
Great results!
Questo video mi ha aperto un mondo grazie di cuore!!! Continua così....👍👍👍😂😂😂
Simple method: mask only vertical lines with tape, paint, mask horizontal lines with tape- paint... works for me if masking went wrong
That Tamiya brush looks awesome for this. I have a JU-87 ready to finish but I haven’t paintet the canopy because I’m too afraid I’ll mess it up, also because the glue makes the clear plastic get all cloudy on the inside and it’s irreversible.
For gluing clear parts, I've used white glue. I later on bought a great product called Microscale "Krystal Klear". It's like a really strong white glue.
Can you only get it in hobby shops or is that available online?
Both, I tried getting through a hobby shop. They kept lying to me saying that it would come in stock next week. I finally had enough and ordered it online. You can see it here directly from their website. I also did a video "working with clear parts" where I use this stuff. www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-9&Category_Code=FINPROD
Does humbrol maskol work on canopies? I’m hesitant to use it because it has a seriour stench from the bottle and I don’t know what it might do to clear plastic.
I've used it a few times to mask an entire canopy, but I've never got it to work on each individual panel like they advertise. I've also heard that it will turn a canopy purple, but I left it on one canopy for over half a year and that didn't happen. I agree, the stuff really stinks, but it dries fast.
Patience 👍 good job.
What about the clear coat layer? And weathering?
Lacquer tends to etch the styrene I think. Works best with acrylic to get a clean removal of paint
I have always problem in masking canopies and painted them with a cut brush. the had is so short so doesn't spread and excess the metal part. then clean the excess with toothpick moistened with thinner.
This is so fabulous. When building airplanes I generally tend towards 1/48 and larger...(I also am big into Science Fiction; particularly *Star Trek* and of course *those* scales vary wildly!!). Masking fine detail can be a real chore and pain.
But, just-for-fun and giggles I have a 1/72 Academy Stuka, *AND* a 1/48 Revell Stuka to build side-by-side for comparison
(I know...Academy Vs. Revell? OK, not a fair fight, but...it's supposed to be a "fun" hobby though, right??). So, the thought of (gasp!) hand-painting fine lines? Never thought to attempt such an impossible feat -- until now!!
Thanks for this video, it has re-energized me. Sitting here looking at a stack of kit boxes, and projects in-process but un-finished?
Just the kick in the butt that I needed!!! (LOL)...
I agree with you there Tim, but thanks to Rob and his method I've been able to paint up a few canopies with more ease and relaxation. I've had a few times with the hobby running into situations that are challenging a first until I can find a productive solution.
I hope that this works out for you with your Stuka kits, those green house canopies are daunting at the best of times. I really need to get back into building a few Star Trek kits. I keep picking them up and not doing anything with them, but I get the most enjoyment out of sci-fi subjects lately.
Modeler and Star Trek Logo . . . Donated! ;-)
Greetz from Germany
Thank you so much :) That is really kind of you :D
Do you have any experience and using a hand brushed primer coat first before applying the primary color coat lines to the canopy? Please advise?
Wow thanks for sharing!
I've used this trick also but if I have the time I will mask them. Makes the lines crisper. P.s. if I do need to brush paint I would rather use Vallejo white tops or the Revell aqua.
I find I use Tamiya paints a bit more lately.. and as you say they dry quite quickly. I need to stock up on a few more shades, I think.. :) Yikes, the look of concentration on my face... almost scary!! :) Still, the method works... and thanks for using a short clip from my video! :) It is a good method, glad you found it is working for you as well.. as you said, the key is to make sure the paint is thoroughly cured / dried.. :)
If it wasn't for your tutorial a lot of my money would be going to Eduard and Montex to pay for window masks :D Thanks for letting me use your video, my Dad was the one who got me into model building as a kid, but your channel was the one that really got me invested in the hobby, so I've really got to thank you for that :D
Hello again. Been building a Lancaster and there is no way in hell its getting masked. Tried fine line tape and fluid but neither works well enough. I don’t dip but polish so paint adhesion is less. It is possible to carefully abrade the frames with a fine flat sanding stick to help restore polished edges (the definition wasn’t great to start with). I have been using this method to “tidy” where I have removed masking fluid and with lacquer it seems to work well. I tend to chisel point the sticks to create a less abrasive edge if that helps anyone but again, a really helpful video bud. CBA
Nice work
My optics specialist advises not to clean my glasses with paper towel, because the paper is made out of wood and the wood contains minerals that are harder than acrylic glasses :) Best to try the toothpick on a test piece of canopy first to see if the tip contains a hard mineral. But great job on your canopy, very well done.
The Champagne cork and toothpick are they from Tamya also?
If your using acrylic, you can dip the stick in windex. It help remove the paint without putting pressure.
Interesting, I'll have to try that next time, thanks.
Did you use Future on the canopies first?
No I did not. These are straight out of the package, and once they are painted and ready for the model all I do is clean them with Novus as I find this works better than Future.
Very nice job, great instruction. I've never had any luck with canopies, but that was a long time ago, using bigger brushes and enamel. Acrylic is much more forgiving, but the cork holder and the toothpick cleaner are great tips. Acrylic is water based so why did you have to buy acrylic thinner? What is that stuff if not just water?
Thanks, Carl, I hope the video works out for you. You are right about the Acrylics, but Tamiya is an Acrylic Lacquer, it's not a true water based Acrylic like Vallejo, Formula P3, or Citadel. I've used water with the Tamiya Acrylics, but I've found that they react better with Tamiya brand thinner.Also there are many acrylics that will react poorly with water, as there are treatment chemicals in the water that some acrylic paints don't like.
Anyone any idea?...I have the Beaufighter revel 1/32...I dipped the canopys in Klear and a few weeks later the canopys went cloudy/foggy...It hadn't happened before to any of my other kits...but I cant seem to get rid of it which spoils the model actually...Ive tried dipping the canopys in windolene as someone suggested to get rid of the Klear...Not sure what to do..any help would be appreciated...Thanks
I'm not sure why that's happened either, but I've used Mr. Paint Remover, I've even got a video demonstration of it on my channel. It's a really excellent product and I've used it a few times on clear parts and it doesn't damage them.
@@rebelsatcloudnine Thanks for the reply...I've posted this question on a few canopy videos and I'll see what folks have to say...the Mr.Paint Remover sounds like a good option to get back to square one with it...I'm still not sure whether it's actually the canopy of the Klear which is the issue...Good community the modeling community...Big Thanks again
@@lewistaylor1965 No worries, I'm not sure why the Klear went foggy, I've never heard of that happening before. It could have been many small things as far as I can tell.
meybe tak a brush wit short and recktangular shap to draw the line. )
I always get glue on the windshield. And then it always smears around. Any suggestions?
You may use extra thin glues from Tamya and Mr.Hobby. There is also a special Revell glue for clear parts. I also have a habit of ruining the canopies, learnt the hard way that these glues really help.
I wouldn't trust my hands for a split second to do a canopy line like that lol.
my problem as well
Yeah same
yup, any time I try it becomes a mess.
salve
grazie, ho imparato molto da questi video; adesso so perfettamente come lavorare ...
un saluto
Piero e famiglia
Great video.
Iv'e only have done a few planes
How ever I do mostly cars and trucks .
I think this will be very helpful on window glass especially on the trim area , thanks
No problem, thanks for watching Roger. I'm going to try this year and build a car or 2. It's a side of modelling that I really want to get the hang of, one day try a motorbike.
Sick steady hands man! ... Mine trembles like an alcoholic vet lol :D
would this still work if you have already dipped your canopy with floor polish? would the scratching scratch the clear coat?
Thanks for posting!
Can always use more techniques.😬
Jman👀
I notice your are not wearing gloves so you must have given them a coat of clear or floor shine to avoid smudges?
Did you clear coat the canopy first - important stage.
No I never do that, I've never found it necessary.
I have essential tremor and am trying to get more in to scale modeling because I like torturing myself I guess. Only thing that stops the shaking for a bit is alcohol. 🍻
Enjoyed the video. Relaxing music too. I’m all about the bass.
I'm sorry to hear that. I think that's interesting that alcohol steadies your nerves. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video, I wish I knew of some way to help you out.