I really like the finished result. Also, that old Battlemaster @ 1:15 is also really friggen cool too. Looks like they were trying to do a F-22 Raptor gold canopy which I think is a fantastic idea!
Thanks for letting us know you enjoy the content and we just try to help everyone make the game their own with the official unit colors and tips on how to paint them.
@@basecoat1966 Thanks so much for that. It really is what I try to keep the core of the content here about. I want folks to try to paint and have good results and be proud of what they've done. I like teaching high level techniques as well, but the most enjoyment comes from having new painters try things out and feel good about their work. Enjoy the channel and thanks for your support!
Amazing tutorial! I never thought about the actual lifting of the brush to deposit more pigment thus being the brightest point. :O Thank you so much for this. Stashing it away for later!
I am tired, frustrated with my failed attempts this evening, and this remarkably helpful. I think I'll give it another try tomorrow when I am more rested.
Thank you for sharing, B1B! The techniques and the reasons you used them were explained and demonstrated well in a short time, and my favorite part was at ~14 minutes when you described how to stop, I struggle with that and hearing that it's universal helps me feel better about it.
That is incredible work! I will be watching this again but I do have a question. What gloss coat do you use after the painting is done? The pictures you showed of the finished canopies on the other Mech is very shiny and they look like glass. Thanks for sharing this,
Thank you for these video's. I haven't painted in over a decade, but between the new BattleTech mini's and your video's I've picked up the brush again! Your models look amazing, but I was wondering if you ever do battle damage, type effects on them? I've seen some simple methods that use foam sponges, to semi randomly make nicks and the like that seems very effective. But I was wondering what your methods are? Maybe for something more substantial, like laser gouges, or A/C punctures and the like.
Thanks for the kind words and welcome back to the painting hobby. I think the video linked here will address what you're asking. It's a bit older and I could probably do a more targeted update that focuses on just one or two things. th-cam.com/video/w2LG6fM34-M/w-d-xo.html
I show how to remove the bases on the new plastics in a previous video so I'm not sure demonstration of applying glue to an acrylic hex would be necessary.
Gosh, those old Griffins and Shadowhawks where we had to cut the accessories off the sprues and glue them on. I'm sure you hear this a lot but... Man, I wish I knew then what I know now. Some of my first 'mechs wouldn't have been painted in single colors with Testors gloss model paints. There's an idea for a future video, how to strip old minis so we can try again.
I like to use Vallejo Scarlett Red or ProAcryl Dark Red as my first shade over the black. Then I like Vallejo Blood Red or ProAcryl Bold Pyrrole Red and then I'll typically use an orange and some white to get to the bright points. Citadel's Airbrush Trollslayer Orange or ProAcryl Orange are very good.
The base coats were airbrushed on starting with Vallejo German Camo Medium Brown, then Reaper Rach Red, followed by 50/50 Rach Red with GW Trollslayer Orange. The edge highlights on the red were with Trollslayer orange and then Vallejo Sky Grey. The gun barrels were based with a thinned Vallejo Model Air Base Grey then washed with Nuln Oil and then highlighted with 50/50 Base Grey and Black then an edge highlight with Vallejo Sky Grey. The joints were Secret Weapon Tire Black then Vallejo Oily Steel and washed with nuln oil.
Amazing work! I don't expect an answer but I think the thing I am struggling with the most is the colour theory that would allow me to pick the paints to even start with. If anyone has good links for that please let me know
Hi, do you think you might expand a bit further on the glossing process? I was following along with this tutorial with a Battlemaster and when I attempted to gloss the canopy it looked absolute pants. I was using Vellejo gloss and went with two coats, while the transitions looked decent au naturel they were pretty stark with the gloss coat and the finish left a lot to be desired. I assume I would need to really work on the blending for it to work glossed? Also I am not sure if I needed to thin out the gloss coat or if you need to really go ham adding coats to get a nice finish?
I stick to just using Citadel Ardcoat as I'm not impressed with Vallejo's gloss most of the time. However, a thicker coat MAY be what you need to help with the surface drying smooth for the gloss layer but that's up to you to risk trying. I don't thin any of my gloss, I want it viscous so it doesn't run off and I feel it dries to a brighter shine if I don't.
I really like the finished result. Also, that old Battlemaster @ 1:15 is also really friggen cool too. Looks like they were trying to do a F-22 Raptor gold canopy which I think is a fantastic idea!
Thanks, and yes there are tons of great examples of cool canopy glass out there!
It was BAD AZZZ with just the RUST BROWN.... Thanks again.
Thank you for these videos. You explain your techniques well. Camo Specs Online is the standard by which painted Mechs are judged.
Thanks for letting us know you enjoy the content and we just try to help everyone make the game their own with the official unit colors and tips on how to paint them.
@@CamoSpecsOnline You make the impossibly good look paint jobs seem achievable.
@@basecoat1966 Thanks so much for that. It really is what I try to keep the core of the content here about. I want folks to try to paint and have good results and be proud of what they've done. I like teaching high level techniques as well, but the most enjoyment comes from having new painters try things out and feel good about their work. Enjoy the channel and thanks for your support!
Great tutorial!! I always have the most difficulty painting my BT miniatures when it comes to cockpit jeweling.
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing tutorial! I never thought about the actual lifting of the brush to deposit more pigment thus being the brightest point. :O Thank you so much for this. Stashing it away for later!
I'd be lying if I said I knew that little nugget of brush dynamics the whole time I've been painting. Glad it was informative for you!
That gloss is amazing
Thanks, Battlemasters beg to be shown off.
This was a joy to watch. Loved the technique and instruction.
Glad you enjoyed it!
You sir deserve a sub
I am tired, frustrated with my failed attempts this evening, and this remarkably helpful. I think I'll give it another try tomorrow when I am more rested.
I hope the failed attempts were good practice that help you out on your next try. Best of luck.
Learning a lot in a short time!
That's wonderful to hear, thanks!
Nice work Lego
Thank you for sharing, B1B! The techniques and the reasons you used them were explained and demonstrated well in a short time, and my favorite part was at ~14 minutes when you described how to stop, I struggle with that and hearing that it's universal helps me feel better about it.
Thanks for the feedback, and happy to hear that it was helpful for you.
That looks so good!
Thank you!
Fantastic video, thank you for sharing your technique! My dry brushing on 'Mechs never looks this good!
Thank you and if you haven’t tried eye makeup brushes or round drybrushes, you’re missing out!
Very helpful tutorial. Really helped me
So great to hear it!
Thank You for the video, this changes EVERYTHING!! Lol. How bout a vid bout the mini you used, that Blue is FREAKING AWESOME!!!
Glad you really liked the video. As for the blue, that's an easy request, it's this exact process: th-cam.com/video/d5LEgqvcpKY/w-d-xo.html
That is incredible work! I will be watching this again but I do have a question. What gloss coat do you use after the painting is done? The pictures you showed of the finished canopies on the other Mech is very shiny and they look like glass. Thanks for sharing this,
Thanks. The gloss coat is Citadel 'Ardcoat
That is beautiful!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great tutorial..thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks muchly!
Ahh-mazing!
Thank you for these video's. I haven't painted in over a decade, but between the new BattleTech mini's and your video's I've picked up the brush again!
Your models look amazing, but I was wondering if you ever do battle damage, type effects on them? I've seen some simple methods that use foam sponges, to semi randomly make nicks and the like that seems very effective. But I was wondering what your methods are? Maybe for something more substantial, like laser gouges, or A/C punctures and the like.
Thanks for the kind words and welcome back to the painting hobby. I think the video linked here will address what you're asking. It's a bit older and I could probably do a more targeted update that focuses on just one or two things. th-cam.com/video/w2LG6fM34-M/w-d-xo.html
its that acrylic paint?
Yes it is
@@CamoSpecsOnline ok, thanks for sharing
Potentially a stupid question, but do you apply the gloss to the cockpit before or after the dry coat?
Nothing stupid about asking about something you're unsure of. Gloss on the cockpit is the very last step after a protective varnish.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Thanks, man! I appreciate it.
👌 thx guy‘s
You should do a video on converting bases to clear plastic base and showing it on maps.
I show how to remove the bases on the new plastics in a previous video so I'm not sure demonstration of applying glue to an acrylic hex would be necessary.
Gosh, those old Griffins and Shadowhawks where we had to cut the accessories off the sprues and glue them on. I'm sure you hear this a lot but... Man, I wish I knew then what I know now. Some of my first 'mechs wouldn't have been painted in single colors with Testors gloss model paints. There's an idea for a future video, how to strip old minis so we can try again.
the old metal models are simple to strip just put them in a tub of acetone
@@maliceharding4668 Won't that also undo any glue? Guess that's not really a huge deal even if it does. Thanks!
What colors would you recommend for the red canopy? From the darkest to lightest point. Thanks.
I like to use Vallejo Scarlett Red or ProAcryl Dark Red as my first shade over the black. Then I like Vallejo Blood Red or ProAcryl Bold Pyrrole Red and then I'll typically use an orange and some white to get to the bright points. Citadel's Airbrush Trollslayer Orange or ProAcryl Orange are very good.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Thank you 👍🏼👍🏼
I just paint my cockpits silver , and go over that with speed paint magic blue .
That's absolutely a great time saving technique that takes advantage of the properties of speed paints and gets nice results.
Wich colors did you use for the body of the red battlemaster? the base color, the hihlight, the black and the gun barrels.
The base coats were airbrushed on starting with Vallejo German Camo Medium Brown, then Reaper Rach Red, followed by 50/50 Rach Red with GW Trollslayer Orange. The edge highlights on the red were with Trollslayer orange and then Vallejo Sky Grey. The gun barrels were based with a thinned Vallejo Model Air Base Grey then washed with Nuln Oil and then highlighted with 50/50 Base Grey and Black then an edge highlight with Vallejo Sky Grey. The joints were Secret Weapon Tire Black then Vallejo Oily Steel and washed with nuln oil.
Amazing work! I don't expect an answer but I think the thing I am struggling with the most is the colour theory that would allow me to pick the paints to even start with. If anyone has good links for that please let me know
Hi, do you think you might expand a bit further on the glossing process? I was following along with this tutorial with a Battlemaster and when I attempted to gloss the canopy it looked absolute pants. I was using Vellejo gloss and went with two coats, while the transitions looked decent au naturel they were pretty stark with the gloss coat and the finish left a lot to be desired. I assume I would need to really work on the blending for it to work glossed? Also I am not sure if I needed to thin out the gloss coat or if you need to really go ham adding coats to get a nice finish?
I stick to just using Citadel Ardcoat as I'm not impressed with Vallejo's gloss most of the time. However, a thicker coat MAY be what you need to help with the surface drying smooth for the gloss layer but that's up to you to risk trying. I don't thin any of my gloss, I want it viscous so it doesn't run off and I feel it dries to a brighter shine if I don't.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Thanks, I'll order up some Ardcoat and give it a shot. How may coats do you usually apply?
@@john88benson typically I'll apply 2-3 coats.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Thanks!
I heard someone discovered how to make glass harder than diamond.
I’ll never understand edge highlighting. It doesn’t look realistic to me and just makes the model look cartoony.