Very nice! I built props for films and TV for a while, and a technique we used for giving a metalic look to plastic pieces, was to spray with a flat undercoat...for instance use a flat gray primer, and once you have a nice basecoat and its dry...rub powdered graphite into the surface. you can guy it in most hardware stores..comes in a little tube. Then clearcoat. You can get a fnish anywhere from a dull aluminum all the way to chrome.
Looks excellent, I like the fact that it's just the one color layer Still at the reentry level and progressing after retirement So far have not tried a silver finish while discovering the huge variety of color brands and washes. However back in the 90's there were several metalizer brands that you sprayed and polised up. One I remember was a brand caled Floquil . I built an AT6 for my father's advanced training class using decals with the aircraft he flew based on photographs , it was really excellent. Ironically, I avoided building the 1/48 bomber models especially the B- 17, 24 and 29 in silver because of the shear amount of service area so it was the good old OD finishes. I need to get a good technique back because I do have some 51's and 38's in the "Q" for future builds. All of the Century series were silver finish up to Vietnam. I have some in my stash. As I recall back in the 50's ,early 60's I think Aurora had chrome models sprues and parts. Which from a side view looked great, but with no putty you had to live with the seam lines and even the pilot and crews were chrome. While aircraft from about 1944 were primarily factory finished there were still many OD camo flying because they kept patching them up and keeping them in the air The " Newbies" typically got the old ships. Plus you saved about 600 pounds of weight by not painting them. Even the first B-29 was OD But I digress. I'll be anxious to see the video on the complete build. Cheers.
I have yet to use any Silver paint schemes… see you gave HOBBY LOBBY some free advertising 😳😜😝… That is a nice finish on the Spitfire, I like the Mustang also Looking forward to seeing more of this build… I do spray Enamels in the house, the PSI is so low when I paint it’s hardly noticeable… Those TESTERS sprays are strong… This was interesting… I’ll keep watching, CHRIS…
Ahh the old garage method! Looks good! If I spray with cans I usually use the Tamiya lacquer…the results can vary depending on the time of year otherwise I airbrush alclad2. Thanks!
Looks really good and smooth. I do often use bare metal primer in spray can to help with later weathering and scratches/chipping, like in the P61 Black Widow I built a few months ago. I only did one metal finishing airplane so far, the vintage Monogram F86 Sabre, and use AK true metal metallic paints with the airbrush over a black gloss coat.
Excelente, gracias, en mi experiencia , con algunos modelos he podido tener resultados diversos, con alclad II o bien con esmalte, acrílicos metálicos los uso para pequeños detalles, en el caso del vídeo me parece muy bien el resultado, muy parejo, y la resistencia del plástico me parece buena para este tipo de producto, lo más importante es la aplicación, me he equivocado muchas veces con la distancia del spray y este o se acumula o bien causa algún tipo de daño en el plástico jajajaja saludos y gracias por el video, esperando el próximo
Yeah I've also used spray cans for a natural metal finished aircraft. Then go back and highlight some panels by hand. Jon, could you please do a video on sanding/polishing a model before painting? I need to improve my technique without sanding away engraved detail.
That's a good idea, I'll think about making a video covering it. In the meantime, I use very fine (1500-2000 grit) automotive wet-or-dry sandpaper (dipped in water often) to knock of any grainy surface texture and smooth seams/putty. Afterward, I use a dry paper towel to polish out the airframe - this works shockingly well. I then use a toothbrush to make sure there is no residue in the panel lines and then blow any dust off with compressed air through the airbrush. I hope that helps. Cheers!
Testor metalizer sealer always been my go to since it doesnt alter final finish & when i heard they were discontinuing this product i went online and bought all i could to last the rest of my living years about 30 bottles!😳 Jman
You're a smart individual, Jman! I bought out a whole store display of PolyScale acrylic paints 20 years ago. I still use it today and probably won't get through it all in my lifetime. Cheers!
The difference between using metallisers airbrushed on and spray can finishes is obvious. Metallisers like AK Xtreme Metals (my favourites) have microscopic metal flakes, spray can paint and other paints like Tamiya Aluminium have much larger flakes. What you got on your Spitty is an aluminium paint finish, not a NM finish. Vallejo also makes some really good metallisers and they don't "stink". I have my workroom in the house, but I have a simple bathroom extractor fan in front of the window, and even using Mr Color Leveling Thinner in my workroom doesn't result in any smell in the hallway just outside the workroom. If you're that worried about fumes, use a mask. I'm 72 and have been modelling most of my life and my lungs are in perfect condition.
I really appreciate the feedback. I have used several metallisers with varying degrees of success. I'll post a full build review when this one is completed to show the final results. I guess I would rather spend time on weathering than on painting (probably my least favorite part of the build). Cheers!
I've had great results with the Tamiya spray silver & aluminum😊
Right on!
Very nice! I built props for films and TV for a while, and a technique we used for giving a metalic look to plastic pieces, was to spray with a flat undercoat...for instance use a flat gray primer, and once you have a nice basecoat and its dry...rub powdered graphite into the surface. you can guy it in most hardware stores..comes in a little tube. Then clearcoat. You can get a fnish anywhere from a dull aluminum all the way to chrome.
Thanks for the tip! I use powdered graphite over black for gun barrels and over rust brown for exhausts. But I haven't tried it like that before.
Looks excellent, I like the fact that it's just the one color layer Still at the reentry level and progressing after retirement So far have not tried a silver finish while discovering the huge variety of color brands and washes. However back in the 90's there were several metalizer brands that you sprayed and polised up. One I remember was a brand caled Floquil . I built an AT6 for my father's advanced training class using decals with the aircraft he flew based on photographs , it was really excellent. Ironically, I avoided building the 1/48 bomber models especially the B- 17, 24 and 29 in silver because of the shear amount of service area so it was the good old OD finishes. I need to get a good technique back because I do have some 51's and 38's in the "Q" for future builds. All of the Century series were silver finish up to Vietnam. I have some in my stash. As I recall back in the 50's ,early 60's I think Aurora had chrome models sprues and parts. Which from a side view looked great, but with no putty you had to live with the seam lines and even the pilot and crews were chrome. While aircraft from about 1944 were primarily factory finished there were still many OD camo flying because they kept patching them up and keeping them in the air The " Newbies" typically got the old ships. Plus you saved about 600 pounds of weight by not painting them. Even the first B-29 was OD But I digress. I'll be anxious to see the video on the complete build. Cheers.
Right on, thanks!
I have yet to use any Silver paint schemes…
see you gave
HOBBY LOBBY some free
advertising 😳😜😝…
That is a nice finish on the Spitfire, I like the Mustang also
Looking forward to seeing more of this build…
I do spray Enamels in the house, the PSI is so low when I paint it’s hardly noticeable…
Those TESTERS sprays are strong…
This was interesting…
I’ll keep watching, CHRIS…
Thanks Chris!
Natural metal can be sprayed easily outside. No problem. Only make sure any tiny scratches are gone.
Yep, surface prep is key!
Ahh the old garage method! Looks good! If I spray with cans I usually use the Tamiya lacquer…the results can vary depending on the time of year otherwise I airbrush alclad2. Thanks!
Right on. It is definitely weather dependent.
Looks really good and smooth. I do often use bare metal primer in spray can to help with later weathering and scratches/chipping, like in the P61 Black Widow I built a few months ago. I only did one metal finishing airplane so far, the vintage Monogram F86 Sabre, and use AK true metal metallic paints with the airbrush over a black gloss coat.
There are quite a few effective methods. As long as you can find one that's right for you, you're in business. Cheers!
Excelente, gracias, en mi experiencia , con algunos modelos he podido tener resultados diversos, con alclad II o bien con esmalte, acrílicos metálicos los uso para pequeños detalles, en el caso del vídeo me parece muy bien el resultado, muy parejo, y la resistencia del plástico me parece buena para este tipo de producto, lo más importante es la aplicación, me he equivocado muchas veces con la distancia del spray y este o se acumula o bien causa algún tipo de daño en el plástico jajajaja saludos y gracias por el video, esperando el próximo
¡Gracias Francisco! Tiene razón: la aplicación de pintura (con aerosol o aerógrafo) es fundamental y un buen acabado requiere práctica. ¡Salud!
¡Gracias Francisco! Tiene razón: la aplicación de pintura (con aerosol o aerógrafo) es fundamental y un buen acabado requiere práctica. ¡Salud!
Excellent video! I finally found someone who uses similar techniques as mine. I never use primer
Glad it was helpful!
I live in Wales and model shops are thin on the ground, I use car spray for silver,white,red and black.
Right on Kenneth!
Right on Kenneth!
Yeah I've also used spray cans for a natural metal finished aircraft. Then go back and highlight some panels by hand.
Jon, could you please do a video on sanding/polishing a model before painting? I need to improve my technique without sanding away engraved detail.
That's a good idea, I'll think about making a video covering it. In the meantime, I use very fine (1500-2000 grit) automotive wet-or-dry sandpaper (dipped in water often) to knock of any grainy surface texture and smooth seams/putty. Afterward, I use a dry paper towel to polish out the airframe - this works shockingly well. I then use a toothbrush to make sure there is no residue in the panel lines and then blow any dust off with compressed air through the airbrush. I hope that helps. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks Jon! Auto wet-dry!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks Jon! Auto wet-dry!
Testor metalizer sealer always been my go to since it doesnt alter final finish & when i heard they were discontinuing this product i went online and bought all i could to last the rest of my living years about 30 bottles!😳
Jman
You're a smart individual, Jman! I bought out a whole store display of PolyScale acrylic paints 20 years ago. I still use it today and probably won't get through it all in my lifetime. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 PS & pactra were good airbrushable options back in the day where paint choices were limited!😳
Jman
The difference between using metallisers airbrushed on and spray can finishes is obvious. Metallisers like AK Xtreme Metals (my favourites) have microscopic metal flakes, spray can paint and other paints like Tamiya Aluminium have much larger flakes. What you got on your Spitty is an aluminium paint finish, not a NM finish. Vallejo also makes some really good metallisers and they don't "stink". I have my workroom in the house, but I have a simple bathroom extractor fan in front of the window, and even using Mr Color Leveling Thinner in my workroom doesn't result in any smell in the hallway just outside the workroom. If you're that worried about fumes, use a mask. I'm 72 and have been modelling most of my life and my lungs are in perfect condition.
I really appreciate the feedback. I have used several metallisers with varying degrees of success. I'll post a full build review when this one is completed to show the final results. I guess I would rather spend time on weathering than on painting (probably my least favorite part of the build). Cheers!