I think you really hit on a good note with us macro photographers loosing site on composition. As time went I got centered and zoomed more and more on my subject and its eyes, and cut away more and more of the environment, the story. I tried Laowas wide angle macro and break away from this. I use the lens for other things now, but it helped me to back away and capture a scene again. If you are going to just focus on the eyes of a subject, you might want to go past 1:1 and at least make it worth it. Also Allan, I think you should try diffusing your light a bit more or dropping the highlights down in PS a bit, but to each their own. I'n not the biggest fan of ring lights unless the eyes really pop with it. Gets the light to close to the subject. Good macro video!
Thanks Mike. Very insightful comment. It is easy to get lost in high magnification. There's nothing wrong with that; it's a fun technical challenge to do well. But it is a good idea to remember our photographic roots and pay attention to our subjects' environment. Your editing point is well taken and I agree. Appreciate the excellent feedback!
Hi Allan. I don’t know how long it would take me to bumble along and re-create the concepts you talk about, probably would give up first. I like your “discussion” way of presenting your deep knowledge…which sounds like it has morphed into intuition. I always wanted an electron microscope but had to settle for a magnifying glass. And thanks for spending your time putting together these videos. It takes me forever to put together a 5 minute video of my two boys and me camping because I feel compelled to fix in “post” the multiple errors I make shooting the video.
I’ve used a diffusion tent placed over the subject to modify the light and shelter the subject from gentle breezes (not outright wind) while focus stacking. The StackShot is battery powered, of course. The back of the tent can be opened to reveal the natural background if desired. My subjects have been wildflowers, not insects, they don’t run or fly away. The hoop-frame tent folds up and packs into a 2-ft diameter flat bag that I clip to a loop on a Leonard Rue vest that has the capacity to carry all the rest of the kit (except tripod), turning me into strange looking walking mobile studio..
Thank you for this information. Would love to see a closer look of how you set up that diffuser. I’d like to do that! Also could you pass on the link to the light you are using- thanks again! 🦋
Heya Allan, great video! I was wondering if you knew the name of the shoe brackets at 12:35 , I've tried searching albeit to little success. I've spent these past 2 months learning macro, but have reached a roadblock equipment wise in that my Laowa 65mm has too short of a focusing distance to where the diffused flash actually overshoots the subject at anything greater than 1x magnification. These brackets look perfect though, since it would position the light directly above the subject as you stated, Thanks!
Thanks for another informative macro tutorial. QUESTION: I 'd like to order one of those hotshoe ballheads (Is that what they're called?) - would you recommend the source, if you can recall? Much ppreciated!
Enjoyed this video - focusing in natural light is my biggest problem so I am going to try mixing ambient light with flash. I do have a question - what are your thoughts on using a polarizing filter to cut down highlights? Thanks!
Superglue? You barbarian. Great advice though. Good to hear a channel that isn't screaming, or jumping up and down trying to be loud and seen, and not trying to sell something. Good job.
Loving your videos Allan, been messing about with a Tamron 90mm macro lens and i suffer from the top 5 ;-) my biggest issue being my Canon 80D does not like high ISO. 400 and above kill photos with noise. I always end up going F2.5 instead of F14 and indeed 1 small area is sharp the rest not. Focusing too is a big issue when focusing manually as to me in live view it looks sharp yet on a monitor its not. But for indoors I have just bought a macro rail so hopefully going to start stacking.
Hello Allan Liked the video for useful tips. I have a request for you, can you please share in detail of the DIY diffuser for ring flash you talked in your video at arnd 14.00 min. Thank you
This is very helpful, thank you. can you recommend a decent flash/diffuser. My budget is ~$200. I am definitely not a pro. Just a fun hobby. I am new to Macro- do you use any filters? Lastly, any lens recommendations for Nikon F mount? D5500?
Great questions! You are right to think about lighting first! If I were just starting out I would buy a two light set of Godox MF-12s. That will give you the best possible combination of indoor, off camera flexibility and field macro utility. Together the set will cost about the same as a decent mid level TTL flash and half what an entry level Nikon flash would cost. Get a nice macro lens. The D5500 is a crop frame camera, but you could use any macro lens with no problem - Best macro lens - Micro-Nikkor 200mm f.4 - best modern Nikon Macro Lens - Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 - Best third party macro lens - Tamron 90mm f/2.8. You should also think about used vintage lenses - there are some real beauties out there. The old 55mm f/2.8D macro lens is super sharp and funny to use. I have the Nikkor 85mm f/3.5 that I bought 1000 years ago and still love. I do not use any filter for macro work, except on very bright days when I am shooting around water when I use a CPL (polarizer). I hope your $200 is for the flash and you have a separate wad of cash for the lens!
Allan, what is this custom diffuser that you taped to your ring flash? Could tell us a bit about it? Does it enable you to get rid of the semi-circular ring reflections in spiders’ eyes?
"The insects I photograph live, in the field, are never harmed in any way". So, we'll have to assume that you think that the insects aren't harmed by using a flash a few inches from them, but unfortunately there's no way you (or anyone else) can know that. Remember that it's only your own sense of what's ethically justifiable that can stop you from doing things that could be harmful to other living creatures, and that you will be held responsible for your actions, regardless of what you think of them.
'Thanks Allan I really enjoyed your video on '5 Macro Mistakes and in sharing your wonderful theories to producing great macro images and will look forward to watching more work that you do!
Hi Alan. Where did you get the hotshoe adapter that lets you mount it at an angle? Can't find one anywhere. Great video btw. I did my first ever shoot the other day and forgot to turn off auto iso. Ruined what I thought was a great shot!!
Hi Mike, It is actually just a cheap cold shoe mount that I mount a hot shoe cable onto. This is a better version of what I use - this plugs into the PC port on the camera (www.amazon.com/Impact-SCS-MPC-Male-Shoe-Sync/dp/B01GSIJ3K0) and it attaches to this adapter (www.amazon.com/Ballhead-Adjustable-Applicable-Photography-Accessories/dp/B07XR1PXJH). The one I was using was made of old salvaged bits and pieces - this version would be less bulky and more stable. Hope that helps!
Thank you, Mr. Walls. Very helpful to me as a newbie. A question please? If we need to shoot at rather quick shutter speeds to help keep the picture sharp, and a speed light flash has a max shutter speed of just 1/200, wouldn't it be better to have a continuous light source for your "flash"?
That is a really excellent question, and it gets to the very heart of the issue. It is not the shutter speed that determines the exposure when using flash. It is the flash duration itself. With continuous lighting it is the shutter speed that determines how much of that light gets to your sensor. But with flash it is the duration of the flash that counts. The shutter speed would only affect how much ambient light could get into the camera. In macro photography you will usually be shooting with a pretty stopped down aperture (f/11 or so) and under this condition the only light that is going to hit your sensor at a shutter speed of 1/200th of a second, will be the flash. At a flash setting of 1/128 (lowest power on most speedlights) the duration of the flash is actually only 1/20,000 of a second. And that will freeze some serious action!!! Remember that the more flash power you add, the longer the duration of the light and the less you can freeze action. Bottom line is this... with flash, your effective shutter speed is the duration of the flash. With continuous lighting your effective shutter speed is your actual shutter speed. I know it sounds a little counter-intuitive! I hope this was helpful and don't hesitate to ask if you want further clarification. Thanks for watching!
@@AllanWallsPhotography Super reply Mr. Walls and MUCH appreciated. A treasure of valuable knowledge in a single paragraph. So it's on to ordering a Neewer ring flash. The Viltrox, from China, takes long to get here. Can't wait - - there are some bugs out there who need their portraits taken! Subscribed.
Hi Leonardo - off-camera flash is a great way to go and can result in some very dynamic images. I use it for less active subjects mostly. The big drawback is that the frame I use to position two off-camera speedlights is very bulky and difficult to maneuver in tight spaces. The single flash on camera with a large diffuser gives similar results but is much easier to handle on the go. Off-camera is much easier if you are lucky enough to have several small flash units (like Nikon's SB200s), which I don't!
@@leonardoleoncastano4638 For ease of use, when out in the field, I far prefer the macro lens over extension tubes. With most extension tubes you lose control of the lens aperture, you can no longer focus to infinity, and you lose light. A good macro lens (like the Sigma 105) will allow to catch a much higher percentage of keepers.
Flash always works great, I like to use burst mode as well, take a whole series of photos, then I just pick out the best ones and focus stack! Usually works pretty good, but like may things, it takes patience and practice to perfect! Great videos, you explain very well.
Absolutely, superglue would damage the animal. :( It's hard to get off of humans with our scrubbing, and an insect would be "stuck" with it until it just wore off, if ever. I was really surprised by this suggestion.
What lens are you using for the caterpillar photo? How did you get that high magnification? Is it just a macro lens or are you also using an extension tube? I’m using the Canon 100mm f/2.8L on an APS-C body, and I haven’t been able to capture those extreme magnifications.
Hi Ryan, That image was shot using an El Nikkor 50mm enlarger lens, reversed on an extended bellows at about 150mm. It was shot at f/4 and 4x magnification, giving an effective aperture of about f/20. It consisted of 32 focus stacked images. Your macro lens will get you to 1:1 magnification, to get higher you will need a different kind of lens and some extension (like described above). You can't really use the macro lens on an extension tube. Hope that helps.
I hate flash in macro photography, it never looks quite right because you get spurious reflections and too strong contrasts, no matter how much you try to diffuse the flash. All of the images you showed how good the flash works have such bad reflections that outright say to me: that's not the way to go, especially those where you can discern the ring flash...
Hi Matt - I don't superglue live insects!!!! The trick is used on dead insects, to prevent their limbs from contracting. They can move a lot as they dry.
Lmao usually you see people saying dont harm the insects. This dude almoust at the start " use superglue if they dont stay still " wtf? Go out torture and shoot some macros. Otherwise good tips but thats just wrong. If your insect wont stay still just find another one.
I am photographing DEAD insects. They are dead when I collect them (see my response to the comment above). I explain all of this in the video - you must have missed that part.
Allan Walls Photography I kind of figured the insect was dead right from the start like a beetle or something good video ignore people and their dumb comments cheers👍
Worst advice for me was not to use AF. I struggle with MF, but when i switch to Continues AF magic happened, and 65 percents of my pictures become sharp.
Maybe some inside joke? If not I will not want to watch this channel anymore 😐. (I know it doesn't matter to anyone though 😂, but at least makes me feel bettet 🙂.)
In to the 5th minute is where I hit the dislike button and stopped watching. You obviously have no consideration for the welfare of the creatures you are using as your subject.
when he mentioned superglue I realized he's just another shitty "artist" and doesn't care about the beauty of nature, only getting his glory shot. What a douche.
He doesn’t do a good job of explaining it in the video, but he addresses that in a comment. He states he only uses that on dead insects, as they continue to flex for a period after they expire. Or he lets their body acclimate for a period which also takes care of that, which he did mention.
You can actually buy dead insects for photography. Its no uncommon and you would be surprised by the number of photos you have seen that were shot that way. Even Nat Geo isn't immune to setting up shots like that.
Yes, David. I do use superglue to fix the joints of DEAD insects. I also stick pins in them and submerge them in alcohol. I do none of those things to a live specimen. The video notes also make this very clear.
You do understand that I am using dead insects, right? I think I make that pretty clear. These are insects that show up on window sills and doorsteps all year long. I use glue to prevent movement when the bug is under warm lights and the limbs tend to contract from the heat.
@@AllanWallsPhotography Apologies Allan and thanks for the clarification. I have to say though, I watched this video again up to and slightly beyond the point where you mention superglue and I didn't hear anything that indicated that the insects were dead. Also, given that some macro photographers resort to tricks like freezing insects to slow them down, it probably is worth stating explicitly.
@@davidf6326 You are right, David. I looked at it again myself and I should have been much clearer about that. I will add the information to the show notes, to clarify. Thanks for getting back to me - that was a classy move!
@@AllanWallsPhotography No problem Allan - lot of arguing on the internet and most of the time it's over a misunderstanding. Glad we sorted this one out though, because I'm finding your videos really informative and helpful. Stay safe.
4.33 Such an inappropriate and unethical suggestion to use superglue to make the insect not move its limbs... Thats not how nature photography should be done, by harming your subjects
@@AllanWallsPhotography thanks for the response but I don't get it, if the insect is dead how will the limbs move? Wind can be a factor but you were talking about Indoor shooting scenario if I heard it correct.
@@SimpleSustainability101 The hollow limbs, and to a lesser extent, then antennae, contract slowly as the internal muscle tissues dry and shorten. They can also lengthen again is the dead tissue rehydrates in a humid environment. The photographic lights can also warm the decomposing muscle tissue. The photographs that I take (several hundred images are combined in the final image) may require several hours to complete, so even a tiny movement will misalign and possible ruin the shot. To prevent this , I will occasionally apply a tiny amount of CA to part of the limb to prevent such movement. I do not photograph live insects in the studio, only outdoors. So all the insects I photograph have been dead for some time, occasionally years. I would never, under any circumstance, put glue on a living insect. I hope that helps you understand and I apologize for being unclear in the video. Thanks for responding to my curt remark, for which I also apologize.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Hardest part of macro for me is convincing my family I’m not weird for playing with dead insects in my 40’s
I think you really hit on a good note with us macro photographers loosing site on composition. As time went I got centered and zoomed more and more on my subject and its eyes, and cut away more and more of the environment, the story.
I tried Laowas wide angle macro and break away from this. I use the lens for other things now, but it helped me to back away and capture a scene again. If you are going to just focus on the eyes of a subject, you might want to go past 1:1 and at least make it worth it.
Also Allan, I think you should try diffusing your light a bit more or dropping the highlights down in PS a bit, but to each their own. I'n not the biggest fan of ring lights unless the eyes really pop with it. Gets the light to close to the subject.
Good macro video!
Thanks Mike. Very insightful comment. It is easy to get lost in high magnification. There's nothing wrong with that; it's a fun technical challenge to do well. But it is a good idea to remember our photographic roots and pay attention to our subjects' environment. Your editing point is well taken and I agree. Appreciate the excellent feedback!
@@AllanWallsPhotography I also stick a polarizer on my outdoor shots since the harsh sunlight can really blow out the highlights.
Hi Allan. I don’t know how long it would take me to bumble along and re-create the concepts you talk about, probably would give up first. I like your “discussion” way of presenting your deep knowledge…which sounds like it has morphed into intuition. I always wanted an electron microscope but had to settle for a magnifying glass. And thanks for spending your time putting together these videos. It takes me forever to put together a 5 minute video of my two boys and me camping because I feel compelled to fix in “post” the multiple errors I make shooting the video.
Thanks Jim - I think our approach to editing is frighteningly similar!
Very useful tips, thanks!
I’ve used a diffusion tent placed over the subject to modify the light and shelter the subject from gentle breezes (not outright wind) while focus stacking. The StackShot is battery powered, of course. The back of the tent can be opened to reveal the natural background if desired. My subjects have been wildflowers, not insects, they don’t run or fly away. The hoop-frame tent folds up and packs into a 2-ft diameter flat bag that I clip to a loop on a Leonard Rue vest that has the capacity to carry all the rest of the kit (except tripod), turning me into strange looking walking mobile studio..
Thank you for this information. Would love to see a closer look of how you set up that diffuser. I’d like to do that! Also could you pass on the link to the light you are using- thanks again! 🦋
Very very useful tips. I'll be thinking a lot more next time I take a shot.
Very clear and informative,done a little bit macro in the past but you have really got me interested again thanks!
Heya Allan, great video! I was wondering if you knew the name of the shoe brackets at 12:35 , I've tried searching albeit to little success.
I've spent these past 2 months learning macro, but have reached a roadblock equipment wise in that my Laowa 65mm has too short of a focusing distance to where the diffused flash actually overshoots the subject at anything greater than 1x magnification. These brackets look perfect though, since it would position the light directly above the subject as you stated,
Thanks!
Thanks for another informative macro tutorial.
QUESTION: I 'd like to order one of those hotshoe ballheads (Is that what they're called?) - would you recommend the source, if you can recall?
Much ppreciated!
This was surprisingly interesting. Thanks! On to your focus stacking video!
Enjoyed this video - focusing in natural light is my biggest problem so I am going to try mixing ambient light with flash. I do have a question - what are your thoughts on using a polarizing filter to cut down highlights? Thanks!
Thanks, Allan!
Superglue? You barbarian. Great advice though. Good to hear a channel that isn't screaming, or jumping up and down trying to be loud and seen, and not trying to sell something. Good job.
Thanks Sean. Appreciate the feedback!
good stuff,, thanks!
like a college course! thanks so much!
Thanks, Alan, for sharing your wealth of knowledge so generously. I appreciate that I not only learn technique but also your creative thought process.
Thank you Jean! Glad it is helpful.
Thank You for ur valuable insights
Thanks for your sharing
Loving your videos Allan, been messing about with a Tamron 90mm macro lens and i suffer from the top 5 ;-) my biggest issue being my Canon 80D does not like high ISO. 400 and above kill photos with noise. I always end up going F2.5 instead of F14 and indeed 1 small area is sharp the rest not. Focusing too is a big issue when focusing manually as to me in live view it looks sharp yet on a monitor its not. But for indoors I have just bought a macro rail so hopefully going to start stacking.
Hello Allan
Liked the video for useful tips.
I have a request for you, can you please share in detail of the DIY diffuser for ring flash you talked in your video at arnd 14.00 min.
Thank you
I would also be interested in this, to fit on a Sigma EM-150 macro flash.
The same for me
Thank you Alan!
Ok then so do you kill the insect just for the purposes of your photography?
Thanks! Great subject to go thru.
Thanks for your videos - I have learnt a lot!!
Thank you, Martin!
Very informative and interesting video! Thank you. Very helpful and easy to understand.
This is very helpful, thank you. can you recommend a decent flash/diffuser. My budget is ~$200. I am definitely not a pro. Just a fun hobby. I am new to Macro- do you use any filters? Lastly, any lens recommendations for Nikon F mount? D5500?
Great questions! You are right to think about lighting first! If I were just starting out I would buy a two light set of Godox MF-12s. That will give you the best possible combination of indoor, off camera flexibility and field macro utility. Together the set will cost about the same as a decent mid level TTL flash and half what an entry level Nikon flash would cost. Get a nice macro lens. The D5500 is a crop frame camera, but you could use any macro lens with no problem - Best macro lens - Micro-Nikkor 200mm f.4 - best modern Nikon Macro Lens - Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 - Best third party macro lens - Tamron 90mm f/2.8. You should also think about used vintage lenses - there are some real beauties out there. The old 55mm f/2.8D macro lens is super sharp and funny to use. I have the Nikkor 85mm f/3.5 that I bought 1000 years ago and still love. I do not use any filter for macro work, except on very bright days when I am shooting around water when I use a CPL (polarizer). I hope your $200 is for the flash and you have a separate wad of cash for the lens!
@@AllanWallsPhotography Thank you!
Cette vidéo est vraiment très intéressante. Elle va m'aider à beaucoup progresser. Merci.
Merci pour les mots gentils. À votre santé!
Allan, what is this custom diffuser that you taped to your ring flash?
Could tell us a bit about it? Does it enable you to get rid of the semi-circular ring reflections in spiders’ eyes?
So informative and common sense, thankyou
"The insects I photograph live, in the field, are never harmed in any way".
So, we'll have to assume that you think that the insects aren't harmed by using a flash a few inches from them, but unfortunately there's no way you (or anyone else) can know that. Remember that it's only your own sense of what's ethically justifiable that can stop you from doing things that could be harmful to other living creatures, and that you will be held responsible for your actions, regardless of what you think of them.
This was a great bit of information. I was thinking at first I’d just stop for a quick look and stayed to the end. I’m a subscriber noe
Thanks Mark... glad to have you on board!
'Thanks Allan I really enjoyed your video on '5 Macro Mistakes and in sharing your wonderful theories to producing great macro images and will look forward to watching more work that you do!
Thanks Dennis! More on the way!
Great stuff Allan. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your experience. This video is very informative. Much appreciated!!🙏
Thanks for the kind words!
Where did you get your hot shoe bracket?
6:01 what a good shot! 👍
Did I hear properly? Use a drop of super glue to contain movement of the insect??? Seems to be a few issues here.
Very informative, great advice. Love it
Thank you, Hilary!
A drop of super glue on the leg of a dead insect? Just wondering.
Hi Alan. Where did you get the hotshoe adapter that lets you mount it at an angle? Can't find one anywhere. Great video btw. I did my first ever shoot the other day and forgot to turn off auto iso. Ruined what I thought was a great shot!!
Hi Mike, It is actually just a cheap cold shoe mount that I mount a hot shoe cable onto. This is a better version of what I use - this plugs into the PC port on the camera (www.amazon.com/Impact-SCS-MPC-Male-Shoe-Sync/dp/B01GSIJ3K0) and it attaches to this adapter (www.amazon.com/Ballhead-Adjustable-Applicable-Photography-Accessories/dp/B07XR1PXJH). The one I was using was made of old salvaged bits and pieces - this version would be less bulky and more stable. Hope that helps!
More good stuff!! Thank you! Will be paying attention to some of these going forward.
Thanks Darrien!
Thank you for sharing your knowhow with us, keep safe.
Thanks Eduardo - and you too!
Thank you, Mr. Walls. Very helpful to me as a newbie. A question please? If we need to shoot at rather quick shutter speeds to help keep the picture sharp, and a speed light flash has a max shutter speed of just 1/200, wouldn't it be better to have a continuous light source for your "flash"?
That is a really excellent question, and it gets to the very heart of the issue. It is not the shutter speed that determines the exposure when using flash. It is the flash duration itself. With continuous lighting it is the shutter speed that determines how much of that light gets to your sensor. But with flash it is the duration of the flash that counts. The shutter speed would only affect how much ambient light could get into the camera. In macro photography you will usually be shooting with a pretty stopped down aperture (f/11 or so) and under this condition the only light that is going to hit your sensor at a shutter speed of 1/200th of a second, will be the flash. At a flash setting of 1/128 (lowest power on most speedlights) the duration of the flash is actually only 1/20,000 of a second. And that will freeze some serious action!!! Remember that the more flash power you add, the longer the duration of the light and the less you can freeze action. Bottom line is this... with flash, your effective shutter speed is the duration of the flash. With continuous lighting your effective shutter speed is your actual shutter speed. I know it sounds a little counter-intuitive! I hope this was helpful and don't hesitate to ask if you want further clarification. Thanks for watching!
@@AllanWallsPhotography Super reply Mr. Walls and MUCH appreciated. A treasure of valuable knowledge in a single paragraph. So it's on to ordering a Neewer ring flash. The Viltrox, from China, takes long to get here. Can't wait - - there are some bugs out there who need their portraits taken! Subscribed.
@@brumblebuffin11 Awesome! Great to have you on board!
excelent video from Colombia. I have a question, what about of camara flash? thank you
Hi Leonardo - off-camera flash is a great way to go and can result in some very dynamic images. I use it for less active subjects mostly. The big drawback is that the frame I use to position two off-camera speedlights is very bulky and difficult to maneuver in tight spaces. The single flash on camera with a large diffuser gives similar results but is much easier to handle on the go. Off-camera is much easier if you are lucky enough to have several small flash units (like Nikon's SB200s), which I don't!
@@AllanWallsPhotography thank you very mach
and what is the best extencion tuve or sigma 105 mm 2.8 tnks?
@@leonardoleoncastano4638 For ease of use, when out in the field, I far prefer the macro lens over extension tubes. With most extension tubes you lose control of the lens aperture, you can no longer focus to infinity, and you lose light. A good macro lens (like the Sigma 105) will allow to catch a much higher percentage of keepers.
@@AllanWallsPhotography very thanks. Realmente agradezco su respuesta
thanks for everything u did n doing, gratitude from pakistan
Thanks, Umar!
Flash always works great, I like to use burst mode as well, take a whole series of photos, then I just pick out the best ones and focus stack! Usually works pretty good, but like may things, it takes patience and practice to perfect!
Great videos, you explain very well.
I’m really enjoying your macro videos. Keep them coming!
No superglue . Sugar syrup would do the work
Absolutely, superglue would damage the animal. :( It's hard to get off of humans with our scrubbing, and an insect would be "stuck" with it until it just wore off, if ever. I was really surprised by this suggestion.
What lens are you using for the caterpillar photo? How did you get that high magnification? Is it just a macro lens or are you also using an extension tube? I’m using the Canon 100mm f/2.8L on an APS-C body, and I haven’t been able to capture those extreme magnifications.
Hi Ryan, That image was shot using an El Nikkor 50mm enlarger lens, reversed on an extended bellows at about 150mm. It was shot at f/4 and 4x magnification, giving an effective aperture of about f/20. It consisted of 32 focus stacked images. Your macro lens will get you to 1:1 magnification, to get higher you will need a different kind of lens and some extension (like described above). You can't really use the macro lens on an extension tube. Hope that helps.
Do you think the Viltrox flash would work (powerful enough given the lens) with a Nikkor 200mm f4 Micro lens?
I hate flash in macro photography, it never looks quite right because you get spurious reflections and too strong contrasts, no matter how much you try to diffuse the flash. All of the images you showed how good the flash works have such bad reflections that outright say to me: that's not the way to go, especially those where you can discern the ring flash...
There is probably a reason for why ring flashes are generally frawned upon amongst real macro photographers....
Ty ☕️🍰😊
I love your techniques.Im heading out side.Thank you.@SoniaGTphotos40
Felt bad to the decapitated bug yet condoning supergluing legs to stop them moving ????
Hi Matt - I don't superglue live insects!!!! The trick is used on dead insects, to prevent their limbs from contracting. They can move a lot as they dry.
Maybe pay more attention he never said glue the living thing. He said glue the branch sighhh
How do you kill your insects?
Very interesting!
Super glue the joints of the insect????!!! How barbaric!
Lmao usually you see people saying dont harm the insects. This dude almoust at the start " use superglue if they dont stay still " wtf? Go out torture and shoot some macros. Otherwise good tips but thats just wrong. If your insect wont stay still just find another one.
I am photographing DEAD insects. They are dead when I collect them (see my response to the comment above). I explain all of this in the video - you must have missed that part.
Allan Walls Photography I kind of figured the insect was dead right from the start like a beetle or something good video ignore people and their dumb comments cheers👍
Worst advice for me was not to use AF. I struggle with MF, but when i switch to Continues AF magic happened, and 65 percents of my pictures become sharp.
Did I heard "super-glue" around 4:30? Seriously?
That was my thought!
Maybe some inside joke? If not I will not want to watch this channel anymore 😐. (I know it doesn't matter to anyone though 😂, but at least makes me feel bettet 🙂.)
Not ethical for a picture to take a life...
In to the 5th minute is where I hit the dislike button and stopped watching. You obviously have no consideration for the welfare of the creatures you are using as your subject.
when he mentioned superglue I realized he's just another shitty "artist" and doesn't care about the beauty of nature, only getting his glory shot. What a douche.
He doesn’t do a good job of explaining it in the video, but he addresses that in a comment. He states he only uses that on dead insects, as they continue to flex for a period after they expire. Or he lets their body acclimate for a period which also takes care of that, which he did mention.
You can actually buy dead insects for photography. Its no uncommon and you would be surprised by the number of photos you have seen that were shot that way. Even Nat Geo isn't immune to setting up shots like that.
How many bugs do you kill with your car while driving? How many insects do you step on when you walk? Completely ridiculous.
Did you really say superglue the leg joints of your insect subjects!!! Where’s the respect for nature?
Yes, David. I do use superglue to fix the joints of DEAD insects. I also stick pins in them and submerge them in alcohol. I do none of those things to a live specimen. The video notes also make this very clear.
SUPERGLUE??!!!! You should have more respect for your subject matter. I would ask that you stick with flowers from now on.
You do understand that I am using dead insects, right? I think I make that pretty clear. These are insects that show up on window sills and doorsteps all year long. I use glue to prevent movement when the bug is under warm lights and the limbs tend to contract from the heat.
@@AllanWallsPhotography Apologies Allan and thanks for the clarification. I have to say though, I watched this video again up to and slightly beyond the point where you mention superglue and I didn't hear anything that indicated that the insects were dead. Also, given that some macro photographers resort to tricks like freezing insects to slow them down, it probably is worth stating explicitly.
@@davidf6326 You are right, David. I looked at it again myself and I should have been much clearer about that. I will add the information to the show notes, to clarify. Thanks for getting back to me - that was a classy move!
@@AllanWallsPhotography No problem Allan - lot of arguing on the internet and most of the time it's over a misunderstanding. Glad we sorted this one out though, because I'm finding your videos really informative and helpful. Stay safe.
4.33 Such an inappropriate and unethical suggestion to use superglue to make the insect not move its limbs... Thats not how nature photography should be done, by harming your subjects
Did you watch the video? The insect was dead.
@@AllanWallsPhotography thanks for the response but I don't get it, if the insect is dead how will the limbs move? Wind can be a factor but you were talking about Indoor shooting scenario if I heard it correct.
@@SimpleSustainability101 The hollow limbs, and to a lesser extent, then antennae, contract slowly as the internal muscle tissues dry and shorten. They can also lengthen again is the dead tissue rehydrates in a humid environment. The photographic lights can also warm the decomposing muscle tissue. The photographs that I take (several hundred images are combined in the final image) may require several hours to complete, so even a tiny movement will misalign and possible ruin the shot. To prevent this , I will occasionally apply a tiny amount of CA to part of the limb to prevent such movement. I do not photograph live insects in the studio, only outdoors. So all the insects I photograph have been dead for some time, occasionally years. I would never, under any circumstance, put glue on a living insect. I hope that helps you understand and I apologize for being unclear in the video. Thanks for responding to my curt remark, for which I also apologize.