At about 32:20 where Mr. Preston reaches in between the two assemblies to pop the cap that hangs up on the shoulder due to being misaligned by the spring under the cap I found a simpler more positive solution. I take a 3/16 piece of key stock and place it over the cap and then depress the spring and clamp both sides to the lower valve case. Then slip the top assembly into place. It should have about a 3/8 to 1/2 inch gap and then install the bolts and evenly tighten until the top assembly starts to hold the 3/16 piece of key stock just enough that it is still able to slide out but has the cap seated. Note the key stock should extend out both sides of the case so it is easy to get a hold of for removal. Love the video.
@@joe_preston First time taking apart 4020 steering column and have a John Deere 4000 series manual but u tube videos such as yours very helpful. Encountered difficulty with the reassembly and tried to manipulate the cap as you did in the video but failed several times. Thought how to depress the spring and make the cap seat over the shoulder and it worked. The farming community needs everyone to help solve mechanical problems because it is so very expensive to get the dealerships involve. PS The JD dealership did not even want to touch my steering issue. Thanks Mr. Preston.
You said if it doesn’t turn to the left, it’s an internal leak, if it doesn’t turn fast to the right, it’s an external leak. My 4020 doesn’t turn fast to the right how would I diagnose an external leak?
Curtis, Cap the lines under the fuel tank make sure they are full of oil. then Jack it up and try to turn the wheels with a bar etc. They should barely move then stop if they keep doing the steering motor is leaking by.
Would it work if I was able to remove just the steering shaft off the valve body? Mine is leaking out the top of the steering shaft and was gonna try and replace the o rings in the bottom of the steering shaft and the seals at the top by the steering wheel.
Yes, you can do that, if it's all functioning just leaking that's all I would do on my personal tractor. You will need 2: R72858, 2 A3606R O rings, and 2 R26441 backup rings.
Where do you get the rebuild kits for a 3020? R34119r ? Also, is there and exploded diagram? I have not been able to find much information and am looking to rebuild mine.
When I machine the base plate. What is the purpose of the .030. Offset? I haven't took the valve apart yet does the base plate hold the column up .030?
So all done, however I only have 3/4 of a rotation for full right lock. And the steering wheel with go 4/5 rounds for full left lock. It seems to track straight, but to turn right I have to full right lock the steering wheel. Everything went together well, I'm not sure what is going on.
Did you use feeler gauges to set .030 from the face plate? I followed these steps and when I put steering back into the tractor it didn't turn at all. I have pulled it out and re set everything several different times and no luck. I'm not sure if I'm turning the steering wheel far enough to the right before setting the weight on it before doing my adjustments ( I broke a plate on accident turning the steering wheel to far the very first time I took it apart). I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if there is air in the system somehow
My endplate has a .030 step in it to stop the valve. I turn by hand till it stops to the right and place a receiver ball on to hold. Take your time with setting the needles. you can bench test with air before the installation.
@@CasperJohns pressurize the T fitting (on the left as the video starts). Air will come out of the fight turn line (pictured on the right at the start). turn the wheel full lock left and air will come out the left turn fitting on the other side of the valve body. then back to right as you straighten the wheel.
@@joe_preston I think I found the problem. I'm doing this to a 4430 and it's a little different. If I set that check valve at the 1 o'clock position like in the video my chronizing valves pins/hole dont line up horizontally the two guided pin rods on the side.
@@joe_preston so I did the air test and air only will come out when I turn left would you think it's because the piston is clocked the wrong way or the plate adjustment on the very bottom? As soon as I put air to it I hear a little coming out of the left discharge port and once I start turning left it comes out full
I have done a couple of these. I like your custom wrench….. I think I’ll do the same. thanks!!
At about 32:20 where Mr. Preston reaches in between the two assemblies to pop the cap that hangs up on the shoulder due to being misaligned by the spring under the cap I found a simpler more positive solution. I take a 3/16 piece of key stock and place it over the cap and then depress the spring and clamp both sides to the lower valve case. Then slip the top assembly into place. It should have about a 3/8 to 1/2 inch gap and then install the bolts and evenly tighten until the top assembly starts to hold the 3/16 piece of key stock just enough that it is still able to slide out but has the cap seated. Note the key stock should extend out both sides of the case so it is easy to get a hold of for removal. Love the video.
I appreciate the good tech tip, that is definitely one learned from experience!
@@joe_preston First time taking apart 4020 steering column and have a John Deere 4000 series manual but u tube videos such as yours very helpful. Encountered difficulty with the reassembly and tried to manipulate the cap as you did in the video but failed several times. Thought how to depress the spring and make the cap seat over the shoulder and it worked. The farming community needs everyone to help solve mechanical problems because it is so very expensive to get the dealerships involve. PS The JD dealership did not even want to touch my steering issue. Thanks Mr. Preston.
You said if it doesn’t turn to the left, it’s an internal leak, if it doesn’t turn fast to the right, it’s an external leak. My 4020 doesn’t turn fast to the right how would I diagnose an external leak?
Curtis, Cap the lines under the fuel tank make sure they are full of oil. then Jack it up and try to turn the wheels with a bar etc. They should barely move then stop if they keep doing the steering motor is leaking by.
Would this be the same steering valve in a 4230?
Yes if you have an early one with the 7” seat well.
Would it work if I was able to remove just the steering shaft off the valve body? Mine is leaking out the top of the steering shaft and was gonna try and replace the o rings in the bottom of the steering shaft and the seals at the top by the steering wheel.
Yes, you can do that, if it's all functioning just leaking that's all I would do on my personal tractor.
You will need 2: R72858, 2 A3606R O rings, and 2 R26441 backup rings.
@@joe_preston damn man thanks for the info and quick reply. This video has been a life saver
Where do you get the rebuild kits for a 3020? R34119r ? Also, is there and exploded diagram? I have not been able to find much information and am looking to rebuild mine.
amzn.to/44HlBn0
I have a manual but even it doesn’t have an exploded view.
@joe_preston thank you! I'll have time to build me a base plate. I appreciate the help.
When I machine the base plate. What is the purpose of the .030. Offset? I haven't took the valve apart yet does the base plate hold the column up .030?
@@jaredcartlidge8099 It holds the plunger in the correct spot to adjust the needles.
So all done, however I only have 3/4 of a rotation for full right lock. And the steering wheel with go 4/5 rounds for full left lock. It seems to track straight, but to turn right I have to full right lock the steering wheel. Everything went together well, I'm not sure what is going on.
I have a 4010 that needs rebuilt, if I take it off and send to you would you be interested?
Where are you located?
Did you use feeler gauges to set .030 from the face plate? I followed these steps and when I put steering back into the tractor it didn't turn at all. I have pulled it out and re set everything several different times and no luck. I'm not sure if I'm turning the steering wheel far enough to the right before setting the weight on it before doing my adjustments ( I broke a plate on accident turning the steering wheel to far the very first time I took it apart). I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if there is air in the system somehow
My endplate has a .030 step in it to stop the valve. I turn by hand till it stops to the right and place a receiver ball on to hold. Take your time with setting the needles. you can bench test with air before the installation.
@@joe_preston thank you for the Info. How would I go about testing with air before instal
@@CasperJohns pressurize the T fitting (on the left as the video starts). Air will come out of the fight turn line (pictured on the right at the start). turn the wheel full lock left and air will come out the left turn fitting on the other side of the valve body. then back to right as you straighten the wheel.
@@joe_preston I think I found the problem. I'm doing this to a 4430 and it's a little different. If I set that check valve at the 1 o'clock position like in the video my chronizing valves pins/hole dont line up horizontally the two guided pin rods on the side.
@@joe_preston so I did the air test and air only will come out when I turn left would you think it's because the piston is clocked the wrong way or the plate adjustment on the very bottom? As soon as I put air to it I hear a little coming out of the left discharge port and once I start turning left it comes out full