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Cross cylinders are pretty easy as they are all O rings you can get them individually from the o ring store or kit the kit from cross dealers.

This was an old solid square carbide, this linked round will be the most forgiving. amzn.to/4h6kqmt

​@@joe_preston Thanks!

That's all I can figure I had two bottles like that and another one poured like water.

@joe_preston i poured one bottle yesterday. Its negative 4 now.....one bottle treats 100 gallons. My tank is 38 gallons. Then i learned its "rescue only" which makes no sense. If it can De-Gel then the chemical should prevent. I also then dumped half bottle of Howe and half bottle of Hot Shot. Two days ago at negative 12 degrees i froze solid.....even with a third howe and a third hot shot......the difference is today im using winterized fuel. And like 3 times volume of 3 different chemicals. The whole bottle of 911 cycled for like 20 miles drive and the other two cycled for an idle of 20 minutes. So now im going to go see if im froze solid again. Ill let you know.

@@joe_preston i learned the hard way, that red bottle does not prevent. Perhaps i caused myself some trouble. It wouldnt start at neg 5. At 3pm it got to positive 10 and after several minutes of cranking i got it started. Idle on my 2002 powerstroke 7.3 uses .5 gallons. 7 hours of idle used 3.5 gallons. So im going to idle the 911 rescue from 4pm to 9am or so.

@@metalandwood4u That should help, I've had good luck with their normal product along with hot shot secret. where are you that is that cold?

@joe_preston i live in louisiana but im just north of minneapolis now. In wisconsin two days ago it was -12 and i spent $700 getting back on the road. Its cheaper to let it idle. But my $700 went into some new batteries too at $200 each. Ford dealer batteries....not option for shopping. Had to get the cranking apms stronger for the cold.

@@CraigReeves-p5q it’s gone another 2 hours. I got a spare but now I’m curious how long it will go.

It has been great, moved whole trucks, semi dump beds, and a shed and material in general. The only change would be thicker gusset plates, they are fine but look small compared to the 1.5" thick bar. The receiver tube in the middle brace has been handy to move gooseneck trailers vs. at the limit of my skid steer.

@@joe_preston i have a JRB 416 coupler that will need to be modified to fit my JD444C loader. it's either that or build something similar to what you made. there's not many shop built examples on youtube. yours gave me some good ideas. thanks and cheers

@@roccofiori I do wish I had a quick attach on this loader, but don't switch it enough to justify the cost, unless I find something cheap.

@@joe_preston i happened onto a JRB 416 coupler on fb MP for $400. so the bargains are out there. my challenge is the JRB isn't an exact match to my older loader. looking to see if someone else has modified a similar coupler is how i found your build. hopefully our convo here will boost traffic to your post. cheers

This was very real, my next bottle poured like expected though.

What should I be doing?

What are you asking?

Some things you have to do yourself.

Gland Wrench amzn.to/3PbvP8b Seal Kit amzn.to/4gNlvPe

You can, most people use too much. A couple drops or anti-seize the threads with proper torque works well. They move linearly with an end fixed so they do not tend to unthread.

@@joe_preston understood, thanks again.

Yes, It's one of my favorite combinations.

For a John Deere, yes they should be about the same, some of the industrial ones unthread. They will have flats on the outside or two round holes in the face.

I believe so.

amzn.to/3Z2ySUy This is the kit I used, Fits most all the 2000-7000 series fords.

I was surprised it came loose that easy, granted this machine has stayed indoors and only has 1400 hours.

Thanks Michael, you'd think I would know better by now.

To fix an internal pressure leak like that you have to reseal the spools and usually regrind the face where they seal.

Glad I could help!

Thanks for the support Craig! sounds like you have been into one too?

@@joe_preston Your welcome👍 Yup, come across very similar things in the past. These old machines are great to work on - imagine the poor souls in the future, as it'll all consist of wire tracing(for rodent attack/ chafing) , and finding backwards compatable diagnostics hardware for their old machines(ie. our latest CANBUSsed horrors with vulnerable wiring)! The International's underweight and poorly designed oil pump(no doubt "costed" by a bean counter) is akin to our current machinery that leaves wiring exposed, or in plastic conduit, knowing full well that this is a failure point, that has caused many plant fires, when simple and cheap flexible SS conduit would negate all these issues(again. The bean counters). Rant overr🙄 - keep safe and well, from the Highlands of Scotland🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

There is a ring on the pickup tube that is held by a cotter pin in the cast bottom.

Yes, it had one and the parts book shows one.

If you followed my video exactly, the final ring before the snap ring is backwards. I was talking about is as I put it in wrong.

This one was 8" up from the hinge to the center hole and the hole is 2.5" up from the tube. if that is what you are asking.

You're welcome glad it helped.

Yes if you have an early one with the 7” seat well.

It has a coil and the momentary switch to fire the plug.

Should be about the same if you are just resealing leaky couplers.

Yes, yours is the early style with controls under the dash then the oil is piped back to the remotes.

I do not have one that needs repair at the moment but will make a video on the next one that comes through.

If you want to ship yours I can film the process during the rebuild.

Never used a snatch block I guess? doubles the pulling power.

Just Hydraulic oil in the can and a red #2 grease like from a grease gun or your tub for bearings.

@@kerrypowell5913 I can do that this evening for you.

@@rowdyazz7519 9/10 for me, most people with the stuff I like to buy have a scrap pile with something useable.