30 years as a certified OPE technician, and Stihl Master Service tech, and everything you did in this video is exactly what we do in the shop. Sure, I give the quote to the customer with the OEM carb, then another with a carb off Amazon, and truth be told, the Amazon cheapo carbs works just fine, my advice is just go with that. Never even bother wasting time trying to clean the carbs anymore, it's a simple matter if "when in doubt, throw it out" when it comes to carbs. One thing to remember though, Stihl's hate inferior 2 stroke oil. Try to stick with Stihl oil, Castrol (they make it for Stihl), Lucas Oil, or even Echo oil. Using cheap oil or outboard marine motor 2-stroke oil will destroy a Stihl in short order. I mean it, I cannot stress that enough, I have a boneyard of FS130's and BR600's that were only a few months old but were destroyed because the owners chose to run cheap oil in the fuel mix.
Stihl 2-stroke oil is literally one of the worst... even if you buy a very cheap one, it will be fulfill the same JASO and ISO standards... look it up, I'm not joking
@@gnaedigerfels LOL, yeah sure, I thought that too when I was 19, until I learned better. I don't need to "look it up" I have my certs, so your comment isn't even worth wiping with. Go ahead, run your cheap oil in YOUR Stihl, but don't come whining back to the dealer or technician when it locks up on you. Another ham & egger. Sit down.
I've been watching many videos of fixing trimmer carburetors and this is, I believe, the best that I've seen so far. Straight forward, to the point and no fluff. Thanks for a great video. I will be looking out for you in the future.
@@FabianClarke-e2i he left out two important aspects : the timing mark and being on the correct stroke. Better watch another video showing the complete process correctly.
I find it far more economical and way less stressful to just buy an aftermarket carb. Some of the time they even include fuel filters, fuel line, extra bulbs, etc.
I recently put a new carb and gas tank on this exact weed eater. If I buy I new carb I try to buy one from my stihl dealer. They’re usually better quality than the cheap ones online.
I like the thrill of the chase. Lol. It’s only a hobby for me. Sometimes I eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats me and I buy an aftermarket carb. No judgement either way as long as the darn thing gets up and running. Thanks for your time HG
I just got through installing my new China carburetor kit . It was $19.98.Everything was easy, went back together perfectly! It even came with new hoses, two extra fuel filters, a spark plug, and two extra primer bulbs. Which I replaced all of it. Other than an idle adjustment, I didn't have to adjust anything else. And now the weedeater runs perfectly! Thanks for the info sir.
My Echo straight shaft brush cutter, leaf blower and pole chainsaw all eventually would not start. I cleaned and put a kit in the brush cutter carb but it still wouldn't start so I installed a after market carb and it started right up and has been running perfect now for three years. When the other two machines quit I went with new carbs out of the gate. All three run great and start easily. I started using racing fuel three years ago and believe the ethanol free, leaded fuel with no additives helps keep the fuel systems in good working order when not being used regularly.
I’ve been studying this video for six months - ordered the same carb kit three months ago - just installed it “as perfectly explained,by You” pulled the roped twice with the choke on, then once with it off, and, Eureka!!! My 2007 model started on the next pull. It runs like a new one, again. I can’t thank you enough. Salute 😊🫡
You made the correct decision...get the aftermarket carb, because more than likely it will last nearly as long. The important point here is Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance....and keep maintaining it.
I think you made the correct decision. You might have considered a carb kit, but those are pricey too. If you were running a commercial shop, let the owner decide, but you're doing this as a hobby..you get the idea. You got it running, that's what matters.
First, when I’m done using any of my two cycle equipment I dump gas back in the fuel/oil mix gas can I have. Then I start and run it until it quits. I was all the gas out of the carburetor that I can get out. I work on my own stuff and have used after market carbs on repairs I’ve made with very few issues. So I don’t fault you for using them. Thanks for the video.
Good video! Over the years as a farm equipment/ lawn & garden tech, I've grown into the "Never-seize" habit. Spark plugs, exhaust hardware, etc get a dab of the stuff.
i found that when you clean a spark arrestor, its best not to use a wire brush. This is because when scratched, it creates a much better bonding surface for the carbon to adhere to. I like to use compressed air, but most of the time you dont have to use either. Nice job, appreciate the fine work
You did the right thing. I had the same issue and ordered an after-market carb from Amazon for $13.00. It saved me a lot of time, and it worked perfectly. 😊
I feel like with quality fuel, oil, and maintenance, any carb will last sufficiently long to justify it. I use A LOT of aftermarket carbs, especially on 2 stroke equipment. I find cleaning them, even in my ultrasonic, is sometimes hit or miss. There's a lot of little check valves on the ones with the built-in primer bulbs. I use a small jar (Peanut butter, etc) that is clean to put my 2 cycle carbs into the ultrasonic. I use the same gas I would use in equipment, in the jar. I find this does a very good job on cleaning these items, and doesn't immerse it in even more dirt/grime than was already with it. Ultrasonic makes it MUCH easier to clean the more gummed up mower/pressure washer carbs. I've put some pretty nasty ones in it, and with a good degreaser & dawn dish soap, they come out in much better shape. I still use my carb spray to rinse and help unclog small passages that may still require my pokey tool. I will disassemble the carb early in my process, put in the cleaner and during the 10-15 mins, allows me time to remove wheels (lubricating), sharpen blades, etc. Once it's done, I'm ready to assemble everything.
Nothing wrong with ordering the aftermarket carb because it's an easy way to at least have a rebuild kit if the cheap carb doesn't work well you can use the parts to try rebuilding the original carb. It's a great plan 😁
The carb looked very clean but the diaphragms had hardened. I personally would have purchased a carb re-build kit and tried to correct the problem that way. If the rebuild failed, I would go with the aftermarket carb like you did. I have this trimmer BTW and did rebuild mine successfully.
Working at a dealership of Stihl products i can say, yes stihl carbs are pricey. we've tried aftermarket and it's about a 50/50 shot they'll work. So we typically we stay away from them, just for the hassles sake and possible doubling the time invested in repairs. But for homeowners, i say go for it.
My FS40 had no spark. O bought an aftermarket coil and a carb. rebuild kit. After installation it still wouldn't start! Frustrated... I was looking online and found this. Your comment about cleaning the spark arrester made check mine, and was totally caked! I cleaned it and it started on the first pull... Thanks for your video!
My older cousin has had this exact weedeater model for years in his lawn care business, and his still runs like a beast. Good chance I’ll invest a weedeater like this one, and also a straight shaft along with it.
@@HomeGaragechannel it sure is! I have a string trimmer myself but it’s a Craftsman WC2200 curve shaft trimmer. She runs pretty good so far. I’ll keep her for a little while, but in the future, I’ll be buying that Stihl FS90R trimmer on the market, and sell my trimmer to someone else.
Nice job. Pro tips are awesome. Spend 10 minutes on the carb and if you need to replace go for it. I’d probably do the OEM but I’m not a small engine shop. Most customers would opt for aftermarket too!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have two STIHL Brush cutters, but the big FS 240 (not an R model, mine has motorcycle handles).failed to start or even try. The air filter was filthy and I did my best to clean it with my compressor, but still no joy. Spark plug looked fine, fuel in the bulb and couldn't find any spark arrestor on my European model, but noticed some green stuff in the exhaust box holes so poked them and a load of green powder dust came out. Some critters must've made it their home over winter and blocked it. After a general degunge, gave it a pull and she fired first time. Will go order or buy a new air filter tomorrow, but the triangular bladed was needed over the smaller model wire today to cut some really tall thick weeds where as the wire would've been constantly requiring adjustment.
😅 i do the same you do.i am cheap.and when i fix equipment for friends.i ask them if they want oem parts or aftermarket.and they do the same.aftermarket parts.thank you for taking time to do this educational.videos.
I have a new carb. from Amazon that just came in the mail for my Stihl trimmer. I didn't even go to the Stihl dealer and ask how much an OEM carb would cost when I saw the prices on Amazon. OEM prices are so out of line that if you can fix it yourself, it never pays to take it to the dealer for repairs. The price of OEM parts is the main culprit.
Hey HG I find myself fixing 8 to 10 year old machines that are not on there last leg but have maybe a few years left on them. I find using OEM parts on a machine that is not worth the price of the part silly and bad investment into the machine . I am upfront with my customers and let them know I can get a clone carb for 1/2 the price of a OEM and they usually work out great . If I have a machine back becasue of the clone part I will replace it again easy. Now if I had a customer come in with new say blowder and can not get i to run for ny reason I would suggest a OEM part for the machine no question .
I just installed an aftermarket carb on my FS90 from 2007. It sat for a few years unused with gas in the tank. It was 10% ethanol pump gas too... I had ran a bunch of Seafoam in the gas and directly into the carb and combustion chamber. It ran but was sluggish getting up to speed and would bog down at anymore than 75% throttle. So the carb kit had 2 fuel filters, spare hoses, new plug and air filter, and even purge bulbs. It could not hurt to try. The new carb worked great but I still need to tweak the low mixture screw and idle speed screw. I feel comfortable using it and it does not bog from idle to full throttle. It will be a backup to my new FS94 and will probably see a brush knife or a FixCut 31-2 head running .130 line. In the meantime, the OEM Stihl carb will be soaked and rebuilt with an OEM Stihl Rebuild Kit. So using 3rd party carbs are a viable alternative.
I had to replace the carb on my KM130 last week. Got an OEM one for $125. It wasn’t cheap, but that’s the first repair in 13 years. The machine runs like new now.
Great video. Only thing is I was waiting to see if you would replace the fuel filter and how you would pop that cap off the fuel tank can you give me some insight into how you might do that mine looks exactly like yours, the cap that is and I'm afraid to break some plastic and removing it cuz I know my fuel filter is clogged but I can't get to it any other way. Thank you.
you mean the plastic spoon looking thing connected to the cap? Just use some pliers to grab it and pull it out. The spoon will "lightly" deform to allow it to come out.
Bought new Stihl OEM carb 45$, after 11 mos stopped working ! Dealer told me to pound sand. 15$ Chinese carb (HIPA KIT) and back in business with new fuel lines,bulbs,plugs,filter included also. So Done with oem
All it needed was a primer bulb and someone taking care of it. Made my KM90R since 2006 and still runs perfect. Primer bulbs dry out over the years and cracks are a vacuum leak - won't run. Ethanol free fuel is also key to no fuel system trouble.
Well done Thanks for useful information I have fs450 sthil trimmer I need replace recoil but we haven't in our stores I need your advise from any brand to get recoil to can run it again
Good video. I like your style, and the way you think. If a part is not just total foreign junk, take the least costly one that will do the job right. It's the way things ought to be.
Did all these repairs and still not starting. Original problem was hard to start when hot. Also air filter was oiky? Discovered there is a gas tank vent that may be blocked but having trouble removing it. My KM90R is 10+ years old and used hard! Have vent ordered as stem seemed to have debris in it. Also w/e wouldn't run with air filter. Have you done video replacing tank vent?
@HomeGaragechannel yes, new carb, fuel lines, filters, new fuel lines, connector, new coil, plug. Last time it started it wouldn't run with air filter in? Vent arrived today. Will try starting it again before I take it apart again. Bulb fills up so don't think it's a fuel issue. If won't start I will try to change vent which appears hard to remove as was the connector. When I first took it apart air filter was oily, but didn't know why, I hadn't seen vent video!
As done on multiple times with a bunch of Stihl machines, I'll go with the "cheapo" carb versions. When it comes to 2-stroke oils, I made the switch to Echo's brand well over a year ago with excellent results - pissing off my Stihl certified master service tech along the way! Lol!
Great video, very informative. I just put a Chinese carb on a stihl FS 110 4 mix. It runs great but will not start unless I prime it with gas down the carb. Brand new purge bulb seems to work perfect. Any ideas why this would be? If I have to start it this way I can live with it cause after it starts it runs and restarts great. Thanks again.
I'm scratching my head on this one. If I recall that carb is purely a "choke" style carb, meaning if it's not starting with out "physical" priming, then there might be a problem with the machine. Have you done a compression test yet? I wonder if it's low, and causing the engine to have a tough time pulling the air and fuel into the engine.
Hi I do not know if there any differences within the carbs oem or aftermarket. I tried one aftermarket on my medium high expensive trimmer. It do not run perfectly and it is not going smooth. I tried to adjust it but it does not help. BUt it could be some other issues like the compression. For me I have to buy a special adapter for the compression-tester to fit into the spark-plug hole. The new OEM was really expensive and I do not think that would help to buy a new one. I would never buy a OEM because of the high price and it is the same construction or almost the same. Tried many hours to clean carbs. That for me does take a long time and does not work for me. Tried air compression, sonar cleaner, brake-cleaner etc etc...I gave up...For me I have to check the compression next step. Thanks for the interesting vid.
Hate to be "Debbie Downer" here but I was never impressed with any 4 mix engines, including the big blowers. This version is better than than the newer ones, but still not a fan. I base this on countless hours using both. Love the show and thank you.
Hi there. I just bought a stihl r 91 trimmer from a pawn shop and it's not starting. I checked the air filter and fuel filter. When I push the Knob in after priming and pull the string it doesn't start and by pressing the orange button the valve doesn't move back to the original spot. I don't know what this means but I think it's supposed to move back when you push it down
Just changed the carb and mine fires up now but cuts out quickly. I am missing the air filer cover and the screen that you cleaned at the beginning seems to be missing would this be a reason? I thought it might still ring but ring rough
With the carbon on the spark plug might check what kind of oil has been used to mix the fuel,maybe another brand would give less carbon (although the screen didn't look too bad)
I have a question about a Stihl blower. It’s a br400, we have changed the carburetor and the spark plug. We checked the compression. It’s all good but it only runs on starting fluid. What what you think the problem is.
well for me i,d check with the types of choices online and see what,s good on price depending on where i live and what the good reviews are on the products out there etc.
i like that... going on a vacation and not really wanting to be there for how ever "long". Q. for ya though... if it were me i would like to keep the original carb. just to have on hand and know with careful handing i could have a successful o.e.m. rebuild, and to put that back into my stash for a rainy day. what would you think bout doing something like that or do you already have a small stash?!?
Hey thanks for your videos, Ive recently been given a FS 130 that runs very poorly. Ive been going through the check lists of things to do to get it running well again, i have recently ran into a problem where its very difficult to pull the string to start and feels jammed. Ive just checked the recoil assembly and adjusted the valves. but still having troubles. any idea where to look next or what it could be? Thanks!!
@@HomeGaragechannel Wow interesting when I pull the cord and the spark plug is off, it pulls fine. But when I put the spark plug back in it jams again. What could that be?
A few days ago, I was working on a newer echo string trimmer and when I was pulling on the rope to try to start it I noticed that it was pretty quiet which was strange but when I took off the spark arrestor screen I found the first problem the spark arrestor screen was completely clogged with carbon so much so that the engine was not starting on the feel that I put into the carpets throat but after I clean the spark arrestor screen the engines running really well
The real culprit in these carbs with the purger/primer bulb are the non return valves in their black base. If either of them leak the metering diaphragm will not function properly. Replacing that part will get the OE carb going. But the AM carbs are a hit or miss for this reason. Their non return valves dont hold properly sometimes out of the box. For this reason i have adapted after market chainsaw carbs on my FS130 and fitted a seperate purger that is used on the FS 120/200/250/400 etc. These carbs are more generous in their scope of H and L adjustments and offer a longer service life, though the initial work for adaptation is quite a lot. Post script. Sometimes the purger valves can be cleaned by pumping liquid detergent and water , with it fitted on a old carb body thathas no metering valve. But that is a gamble
was curious on the engine having valves when the oiled fuel was mentioned, apparently it’s a 4 stroke that doesn’t have a sump and uses the fuel oil mixture like a 2 stroke, funky
I ordered a carb. It came several weeks later from China. I put it in and it ran perfect without adjustment. I took out the little screen. Why do you need two intake filters. Now, I only use the high dollar gas but I only use the Stihl for the heavy jobs with the metal blade. For my normal trimming, I have a DeWalt, 60V trimmer with the companion blower and chain saw. At 87, I need to conserve energy and stress.
One thing I always do when an engine won’t start is put in fresh fuel and remove the spark plug to add a bit of fuel directly into the chamber. It is surprising the number of times the machine starts and then just keeps running. I run the machine for 15 or 20 minute, which will tend to lubricate the diaphragms and unblock the carburetor.
I would have first looked for an OEM carb rebuild kit. Second choice would have been an aftermarket rebuild kit. I want to keep as much original parts on my Stihl equipment as possible.
sure, how many times have you tried pulling on the rope? Too many failed attempts to start it, might have flooded it. Give a day in the sun, then in the evening try starting it without the choke, then if it doesn't start, use your normal procedure
Mine had similar issues. I bought a cheap carb and stolen the parts failed on the oem one. Oem parts expensive and you can't always find them. Works like new after few hours of use.
I'd probably give them the options and then it'd all be on them. If I hadn't broken the throttle shaft on the carb on the electric start I'd have cleaned/rebuilt it but had to get a knockoff BUT it works fine after I worked out the primer issue. Thanks and Happy Weekend
Hello sir can u tell me one thing About fs 3001 model In this model chock lever position in running mode? When I put thechock lever into run mode the engine going shut down
A neighbor brought over an antique Stihl chsainsaw and the carb was really messed up. A new OER carb was 'way too much $$$ so we bought a Chinesium version at $12.00. It included a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, a LOT of fuel line, the clunk/filter, the air filter and the carb. I put it on and in three pulls it was running perfectly. I never had to adjust anything! It's still running with the Amazon $12.00 carb three years later and - frankly - if I had to buy a new one for every new cutting season - we'd still be money ahead compared to buying just one Stihl carb.
I've seen you do a lot of these videos and you've always just cleaned the carb and replaced the diaphragms. I noticed that these diaphragms are different. Did you replace the carb because the diaphragms are more expensive, and/or you didn't have any to match?
it was the pumping diaphragm, I was too far gone to rejuvenate and I don't carry it either. If I have to replace the purge bulb, metering and the pumping diaphragm that's enough for me to just replace the entire thing.
ive had good luck with cleaning carbs never had to buy a aftermarket thank god but the only time i would consider is if it was my personal machine and i really liked it lol
Ive never been able to starr my brand new FS 91 R trimmer and I bought the pre mixed fuel that Ace sells you so you can get the extended warranty. Should I just make a warranty claim?
I'd buy the after market frankly as well. Question though have you ever had one of the stihls leak out of the tank vent? Did you just replace the vent or is there a way to "fix" it?
When I press the button on top.The skinny button that doesn't say stop. Nothing happens, the choke does not move back to the original spot. The button that you have to press in and twist. What would cause that to not work. Because I can't get it to start. I bought it from a pawnshop. Please respond as soon as you can. Thank you
well, that's a tough one, if they were both treated well, probably pretty good, but mistreat the both of them, I'm going to guess the aftermarket carb wouldn't last as long. it's up to the owners to make that choice.
Thank you a lot! I really like how you explained in your videos about how to fix this machines I hope I can fix my weed eater Fs91r which start but it dies…
People just don’t know how to maintain or store equipment from one season to another. They are just to busy to do such mundane stuff, like storing their equipment properly. If it fails to start nex spring they will buy a new one. Every fall I set aside a day to put certain outdoor equipment in storage condition. I crank them up and let them warm up for five minutes. I then pour out all the gas, recrank them and let them idle until they stop for lack of gas. If they have a primer bulb I press it until it is empty while it is idling. I don’t want to leave any gas in the unit when I am through. I then wipe the off with a slightly oily shop rag and hang them up in my shop by their cutter head until next spring.
I like to remove the spark plug and drop in about 1/4 oz of oil on top of the piston. Pull the cord a few times to distribute the oil, and leave the piston at the top of the cylinder. I think my shindaiwa 242 manual said to do that for winterization.
@@MoDogburn that was the tied and true way to winterize an e 50 years ago but seldom practiced, today.. on my stable of Stihl saws I just warm them up, dump out any remaining gas and add a few ounces of Stihl Moto Mix and let them idle until they run out of gas. I then loosen the chain a few turns and put them on a shelf in the shop.
the likely hood is high and that's partly due to having the ethanol fuel, in the fuel system, for a long time. Yes you can buy the diaphragm separately
@@HomeGaragechannel Easy solution to using ethanol fuel is to run the carb dry after each use. When done using tool, pour out remaining gas in tank and then restart tool and run until it quits. Leaving the ethanol fuel in the carb is what kills the carbs/diaphragms.
i have always been very apprehensive about aftermarket/knockoff carbs that aftermarket carb looks exactly the same as the original and performs well i'm quite surprised you didn't have to change the mixture screws my dad dropped off his honda 35cc brushcutter today saying its leaking fuel a quick look and its leaking tons of fuel out of the carb both sections where the membrane material seals the carb sections called honda $106AUD for a new carb i don't think so if its too far gone i will be going down the same road you did
@@briantii spot on. Stihl says once then you are good, but heh, nope, you gotta check those valves often. And it literally only takes 10 minutes, unlike what the dealership tries to bill you for.
@@briantii Yeah it's true, 10 minutes would also include finishing up the work order and waiting for the gasket and sealing ring from the parts dept to show up at your station. But the dealership will charge the customer and hour, plus shop supplies.... terrible.
sure thing, after multiple failed attempts to start it, it could have flooded the engine. Take out the spark plug, leave it for a couple of days, and then come back to start it except this time, don't use the choke, and hold the trigger down. If it still won't start, I'd look into getting a new carb and also getting a compression test done
I am confused, you talked about 2 stroke pre mix fuel, then you removed the cover and there are....valves...? Is it 2 or 4 stroke? First time i see something like that
I can understand why. Stihl calls this a 4 mix engine. It has valves like a 4 cycle, but is setup using 2 stroke mix, that way, you can still use it, like a conventional 2 stroke, but not worry about the way you orient the trimmer, because of an oil sump.
What do you do with the old carbs after replacing them with a new one ? I would sell or keep parts of them like the left over parts from the rebuild kits i've kept over the past year 😃
@@HomeGaragechannel i would have done the same, i do that with old pistons and rings too i even got some old diaphragms and other old parts even at the machines i work on and preserve 😄
I have a stihl fs 55 i rebuild it new ring new head gasket i bought a new carb kit and still not starting it has spark and getting fuel do u have any tips for me pmeasee
Could be the coil or the coil wires shorting the coil out,if it starts when you unhook the coil wires,it's the cut off switch,if it doesn't it's the coil or muffler screen
I bought an MTD trimmer recently, i used it about 5-6 times and now it starts, runs for a couple seconds and then it shuts off. I know that's not a lot to go on but do you have any idea what might be the problem?
Hi condition and coloring of the bulb on the carburetor I’m betting it’s 10 to 15 years old. Spark, plug and magneto may be bad. I obviously have not seen the whole video yet, but I’m sure you’ll go through everything. Nice video!
Thanks, this is very interesting as I've faced similar issues with my 2 strokes.What works for me is to buy an OEM rebuild kit if possible and then also, a pattern Chinese carb for standby.I found in my Stihl fs 50, strimmer , both diaphragms were very tired after only two seasons 😢, the fuel pump diaphragm seems to be made from acetate and the longevity is poor in my machine. So no problems for me with a pattern carb as it can't be any worse 🙃 .Best Regards and thanks again 😊 Ian 🇬🇧
30 years as a certified OPE technician, and Stihl Master Service tech, and everything you did in this video is exactly what we do in the shop. Sure, I give the quote to the customer with the OEM carb, then another with a carb off Amazon, and truth be told, the Amazon cheapo carbs works just fine, my advice is just go with that. Never even bother wasting time trying to clean the carbs anymore, it's a simple matter if "when in doubt, throw it out" when it comes to carbs. One thing to remember though, Stihl's hate inferior 2 stroke oil. Try to stick with Stihl oil, Castrol (they make it for Stihl), Lucas Oil, or even Echo oil. Using cheap oil or outboard marine motor 2-stroke oil will destroy a Stihl in short order. I mean it, I cannot stress that enough, I have a boneyard of FS130's and BR600's that were only a few months old but were destroyed because the owners chose to run cheap oil in the fuel mix.
thank you TJ Clarke for your time and sharing your experience
Stihl 2-stroke oil is literally one of the worst... even if you buy a very cheap one, it will be fulfill the same JASO and ISO standards... look it up, I'm not joking
@@gnaedigerfels LOL, yeah sure, I thought that too when I was 19, until I learned better. I don't need to "look it up" I have my certs, so your comment isn't even worth wiping with. Go ahead, run your cheap oil in YOUR Stihl, but don't come whining back to the dealer or technician when it locks up on you. Another ham & egger. Sit down.
Next time you get a spark gap it at 0.30 and never ever put a pre gap plug in any engine always check the gap.
gotta get the full synthetic
@@gnaedigerfels
I've been watching many videos of fixing trimmer carburetors and this is, I believe, the best that I've seen so far. Straight forward, to the point and no fluff. Thanks for a great video. I will be looking out for you in the future.
thanks, that means a lot
@@FabianClarke-e2i he left out two important aspects :
the timing mark and being on the correct stroke. Better watch another video showing the complete process correctly.
I’ve sold stihl equipment for 15 years and worked with top mechanics. Most of the problems we dealt with were bad gas , cheap oils or ethanol!
thanks for sharing
I find it far more economical and way less stressful to just buy an aftermarket carb. Some of the time they even include fuel filters, fuel line, extra bulbs, etc.
I feel the same way.
I recently put a new carb and gas tank on this exact weed eater. If I buy I new carb I try to buy one from my stihl dealer. They’re usually better quality than the cheap ones online.
@@calebmoody326you know that stihl does not make their own carburetors and you can buy them from the manufacturer for half the price right.
@@bobbyhempel1513 who's the manufacturer?
@@mtnmotoadvyou can normally see it on the carb of your Stihl product
I like the thrill of the chase. Lol. It’s only a hobby for me. Sometimes I eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats me and I buy an aftermarket carb. No judgement either way as long as the darn thing gets up and running. Thanks for your time HG
well said and great comment!
I just got through installing my new China carburetor kit . It was $19.98.Everything was easy, went back together perfectly! It even came with new hoses, two extra fuel filters, a spark plug, and two extra primer bulbs. Which I replaced all of it. Other than an idle adjustment, I didn't have to adjust anything else. And now the weedeater runs perfectly! Thanks for the info sir.
no problem and good work !
My Echo straight shaft brush cutter, leaf blower and pole chainsaw all eventually would not start. I cleaned and put a kit in the brush cutter carb but it still wouldn't start so I installed a after market carb and it started right up and has been running perfect now for three years. When the other two machines quit I went with new carbs out of the gate. All three run great and start easily. I started using racing fuel three years ago and believe the ethanol free, leaded fuel with no additives helps keep the fuel systems in good working order when not being used regularly.
nice!
I’ve been studying this video for six months - ordered the same carb kit three months ago - just installed it “as perfectly explained,by You” pulled the roped twice with the choke on, then once with it off, and, Eureka!!! My 2007 model started on the next pull. It runs like a new one, again. I can’t thank you enough. Salute 😊🫡
thanks but you did all the work, so congratulations!
You made the correct decision...get the aftermarket carb, because more than likely it will last nearly as long.
The important point here is Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance....and keep maintaining it.
you are correct, hopefully though they'll take better care of it this time.
Your videography has gotten quite good. You made the right decision on the carb. Your co-worker should be a happy customer.
thank you Marshall Collins
I think you made the correct decision. You might have considered a carb kit, but those are pricey too. If you were running a commercial shop, let the owner decide, but you're doing this as a hobby..you get the idea. You got it running, that's what matters.
well said and it makes sense to me.
First, when I’m done using any of my two cycle equipment I dump gas back in the fuel/oil mix gas can I have. Then I start and run it until it quits. I was all the gas out of the carburetor that I can get out. I work on my own stuff and have used after market carbs on repairs I’ve made with very few issues. So I don’t fault you for using them. Thanks for the video.
wow, excellent methods and thank you ussreeves
Good video! Over the years as a farm equipment/ lawn & garden tech, I've grown into the "Never-seize" habit. Spark plugs, exhaust hardware, etc get a dab of the stuff.
interesting, I'll have to check it out.
Like the Franks’ Red Hot commercial, “I put that $#&@ on everything!” Lol
i found that when you clean a spark arrestor, its best not to use a wire brush. This is because when scratched, it creates a much better bonding surface for the carbon to adhere to. I like to use compressed air, but most of the time you dont have to use either. Nice job, appreciate the fine work
thanks
Its best to throw the arrestor in the garbage lol
Just use a brass (instead of steel) brush
You did the right thing. I had the same issue and ordered an after-market carb from Amazon for $13.00. It saved me a lot of time, and it worked perfectly. 😊
thank you John Davis
I feel like with quality fuel, oil, and maintenance, any carb will last sufficiently long to justify it. I use A LOT of aftermarket carbs, especially on 2 stroke equipment. I find cleaning them, even in my ultrasonic, is sometimes hit or miss. There's a lot of little check valves on the ones with the built-in primer bulbs. I use a small jar (Peanut butter, etc) that is clean to put my 2 cycle carbs into the ultrasonic. I use the same gas I would use in equipment, in the jar. I find this does a very good job on cleaning these items, and doesn't immerse it in even more dirt/grime than was already with it.
Ultrasonic makes it MUCH easier to clean the more gummed up mower/pressure washer carbs. I've put some pretty nasty ones in it, and with a good degreaser & dawn dish soap, they come out in much better shape. I still use my carb spray to rinse and help unclog small passages that may still require my pokey tool. I will disassemble the carb early in my process, put in the cleaner and during the 10-15 mins, allows me time to remove wheels (lubricating), sharpen blades, etc. Once it's done, I'm ready to assemble everything.
thank you for the advice and tips Matt Wickert
Great video!!! One of the best How-to videos I've ever seen. You covered all the bases and questions and then some.
thank you very much
Nothing wrong with ordering the aftermarket carb because it's an easy way to at least have a rebuild kit if the cheap carb doesn't work well you can use the parts to try rebuilding the original carb. It's a great plan 😁
nice, I thought it was a good idea .
@@HomeGaragechannel Yup it's a fantastic idea because you simply can't lose with that deal and it's only a $20 gamble in the first place. 👍👍👍😎😎😎
The carb looked very clean but the diaphragms had hardened. I personally would have purchased a carb re-build kit and tried to correct the problem that way. If the rebuild failed, I would go with the aftermarket carb like you did. I have this trimmer BTW and did rebuild mine successfully.
Great point!
I love aftermarket carbs and always recommend them. Some customers still insist on OEM which is fine if they are willing to pay for it.
you got that right, but most customers are cheaper than you think. Thank you Brian King.
Working at a dealership of Stihl products i can say, yes stihl carbs are pricey. we've tried aftermarket and it's about a 50/50 shot they'll work. So we typically we stay away from them, just for the hassles sake and possible doubling the time invested in repairs. But for homeowners, i say go for it.
you make a good point, aftermarket is fairly "Iffy" and if you want an almost guarantee, go OEM.
@@MavericksGoosed
Most of the Stihl carburettors are made in China. The Fs38 is made in China now.
My FS40 had no spark. O bought an aftermarket coil and a carb. rebuild kit. After installation it still wouldn't start! Frustrated... I was looking online and found this. Your comment about cleaning the spark arrester made check mine, and was totally caked! I cleaned it and it started on the first pull... Thanks for your video!
no problem and thank you for the comment
My older cousin has had this exact weedeater model for years in his lawn care business, and his still runs like a beast. Good chance I’ll invest a weedeater like this one, and also a straight shaft along with it.
that's a very good choice!
@@HomeGaragechannel it sure is! I have a string trimmer myself but it’s a Craftsman WC2200 curve shaft trimmer. She runs pretty good so far. I’ll keep her for a little while, but in the future, I’ll be buying that Stihl FS90R trimmer on the market, and sell my trimmer to someone else.
Thank you for your videos. I enjoy your troubleshooting process and your clear instructions. Please make more content.
I will and thank you Ruben Contreras
Nice job. Pro tips are awesome. Spend 10 minutes on the carb and if you need to replace go for it. I’d probably do the OEM but I’m not a small engine shop. Most customers would opt for aftermarket too!!
nothing wrong with it, and if there was any time an OEM carb is worth it, it would be on this machine, thank you Phil Del Giudice
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have two STIHL Brush cutters, but the big FS 240 (not an R model, mine has motorcycle handles).failed to start or even try. The air filter was filthy and I did my best to clean it with my compressor, but still no joy. Spark plug looked fine, fuel in the bulb and couldn't find any spark arrestor on my European model, but noticed some green stuff in the exhaust box holes so poked them and a load of green powder dust came out. Some critters must've made it their home over winter and blocked it.
After a general degunge, gave it a pull and she fired first time. Will go order or buy a new air filter tomorrow, but the triangular bladed was needed over the smaller model wire today to cut some really tall thick weeds where as the wire would've been constantly requiring adjustment.
very nice work getting it working again!
😅 i do the same you do.i am cheap.and when i fix equipment for friends.i ask them if they want oem parts or aftermarket.and they do the same.aftermarket parts.thank you for taking time to do this educational.videos.
no problem and thank you Christian Vasquez.
I have a new carb. from Amazon that just came in the mail for my Stihl trimmer. I didn't even go to the Stihl dealer and ask how much an OEM carb would cost when I saw the prices on Amazon. OEM prices are so out of line that if you can fix it yourself, it never pays to take it to the dealer for repairs. The price of OEM parts is the main culprit.
you bring up a good point about prices. I always wondered why they were so expensive
Hey HG I find myself fixing 8 to 10 year old machines that are not on there last leg but have maybe a few years left on them. I find using OEM parts on a machine that is not worth the price of the part silly and bad investment into the machine . I am upfront with my customers and let them know I can get a clone carb for 1/2 the price of a OEM and they usually work out great . If I have a machine back becasue of the clone part I will replace it again easy. Now if I had a customer come in with new say blowder and can not get i to run for ny reason I would suggest a OEM part for the machine no question .
Bty the way my dad had one of those syhl trimmers you could not kill it put a blade on it and it would slice through sablins like butter .
I like the way you put it.
that sounds like a great idea!
I just installed an aftermarket carb on my FS90 from 2007. It sat for a few years unused with gas in the tank. It was 10% ethanol pump gas too... I had ran a bunch of Seafoam in the gas and directly into the carb and combustion chamber. It ran but was sluggish getting up to speed and would bog down at anymore than 75% throttle. So the carb kit had 2 fuel filters, spare hoses, new plug and air filter, and even purge bulbs. It could not hurt to try.
The new carb worked great but I still need to tweak the low mixture screw and idle speed screw. I feel comfortable using it and it does not bog from idle to full throttle. It will be a backup to my new FS94 and will probably see a brush knife or a FixCut 31-2 head running .130 line.
In the meantime, the OEM Stihl carb will be soaked and rebuilt with an OEM Stihl Rebuild Kit. So using 3rd party carbs are a viable alternative.
nice work!
I had to replace the carb on my KM130 last week. Got an OEM one for $125. It wasn’t cheap, but that’s the first repair in 13 years. The machine runs like new now.
wow.. nice machine!
If it is ok with your co worker then you did the right thing. Great video
I sure hope so, since they didn't tell much about it, I just did what I thought was right, thank you Growling Little Country homestead.
Great video. Only thing is I was waiting to see if you would replace the fuel filter and how you would pop that cap off the fuel tank can you give me some insight into how you might do that mine looks exactly like yours, the cap that is and I'm afraid to break some plastic and removing it cuz I know my fuel filter is clogged but I can't get to it any other way. Thank you.
you mean the plastic spoon looking thing connected to the cap? Just use some pliers to grab it and pull it out. The spoon will "lightly" deform to allow it to come out.
Bought new Stihl OEM carb 45$, after 11 mos stopped working ! Dealer told me to pound sand. 15$ Chinese carb (HIPA KIT) and back in business with new fuel lines,bulbs,plugs,filter included also. So Done with oem
wow that dealer was mad. Were you asking for a new OEM carb to replace it?
My older stihl stuff is still going .
Newer stihl stuff is too expensive.😊
And I've never had a problem with after market carbs.
nice, thank you for letting me know
You did exactly what I would've done....Nothing wrong with doing a budget repair job.
thank you!
Had A Stihl Trimmer...Nothing But Carby Problems.Changed To A Honda...Perfect
great choice
All it needed was a primer bulb and someone taking care of it. Made my KM90R since 2006 and still runs perfect. Primer bulbs dry out over the years and cracks are a vacuum leak - won't run. Ethanol free fuel is also key to no fuel system trouble.
you are correct!
Well done
Thanks for useful information
I have fs450 sthil trimmer I need replace recoil but we haven't in our stores I need your advise from any brand to get recoil to can run it again
I really don't have any resources to help out.
@@HomeGaragechannel I need your e mail address for more information
I have a fs 131 and i'm having trouble cranking it, we have to take off the air filter cover for it to start but once it starts it is good to go.
interesting, I've never seen that problem first hand
Thanks for sharing. You’re knowledgeable on this subject matter, it’s greatly appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Good video. I like your style, and the way you think. If a part is not just total foreign junk, take the least costly one that will do the job right. It's the way things ought to be.
I appreciate that!
Did all these repairs and still not starting. Original problem was hard to start when hot. Also air filter was oiky? Discovered there is a gas tank vent that may be blocked but having trouble removing it. My KM90R is 10+ years old and used hard! Have vent ordered as stem seemed to have debris in it. Also w/e wouldn't run with air filter. Have you done video replacing tank vent?
no I've never had to deal with the tank vent before. Have you considered a new carb yet?
@HomeGaragechannel yes, new carb, fuel lines, filters, new fuel lines, connector, new coil, plug. Last time it started it wouldn't run with air filter in? Vent arrived today. Will try starting it again before I take it apart again. Bulb fills up so don't think it's a fuel issue. If won't start I will try to change vent which appears hard to remove as was the connector. When I first took it apart air filter was oily, but didn't know why, I hadn't seen vent video!
As done on multiple times with a bunch of Stihl machines, I'll go with the "cheapo" carb versions. When it comes to 2-stroke oils, I made the switch to Echo's brand well over a year ago with excellent results - pissing off my Stihl certified master service tech along the way! Lol!
LOL!! Nice.
Great video, very informative. I just put a Chinese carb on a stihl FS 110 4 mix. It runs great but will not start unless I prime it with gas down the carb. Brand new purge bulb seems to work perfect. Any ideas why this would be? If I have to start it this way I can live with it cause after it starts it runs and restarts great. Thanks again.
I'm scratching my head on this one. If I recall that carb is purely a "choke" style carb, meaning if it's not starting with out "physical" priming, then there might be a problem with the machine. Have you done a compression test yet? I wonder if it's low, and causing the engine to have a tough time pulling the air and fuel into the engine.
Hi I do not know if there any differences within the carbs oem or aftermarket. I tried one aftermarket on my medium high expensive trimmer. It do not run perfectly and it is not going smooth. I tried to adjust it but it does not help. BUt it could be some other issues like the compression. For me I have to buy a special adapter for the compression-tester to fit into the spark-plug hole. The new OEM was really expensive and I do not think that would help to buy a new one. I would never buy a OEM because of the high price and it is the same construction or almost the same. Tried many hours to clean carbs. That for me does take a long time and does not work for me. Tried air compression, sonar cleaner, brake-cleaner etc etc...I gave up...For me I have to check the compression next step. Thanks for the interesting vid.
no problem and hope you figure it out.
Hate to be "Debbie Downer" here but I was never impressed with any 4 mix engines, including the big blowers. This version is better than than the newer ones, but still not a fan. I base this on countless hours using both. Love the show and thank you.
thank you very much for the Super Thanks, I appreciate that a lot.
My entertainment dollars are well spent on young talent like you.
How is it you were turning those screws counter clockwise as yiu were inserting them?
I have no idea what you're talking about
Hi there. I just bought a stihl r 91 trimmer from a pawn shop and it's not starting. I checked the air filter and fuel filter. When I push the Knob in after priming and pull the string it doesn't start and by pressing the orange button the valve doesn't move back to the original spot. I don't know what this means but I think it's supposed to move back when you push it down
have you considered looking up the owners manual for the trimmer?
Just changed the carb and mine fires up now but cuts out quickly. I am missing the air filer cover and the screen that you cleaned at the beginning seems to be missing would this be a reason? I thought it might still ring but ring rough
not at all, you need to make some adjustment to the carb to get it to work with your particular engine .
With the carbon on the spark plug might check what kind of oil has been used to mix the fuel,maybe another brand would give less carbon (although the screen didn't look too bad)
good idea
I have a question about a Stihl blower. It’s a br400, we have changed the carburetor and the spark plug. We checked the compression. It’s all good but it only runs on starting fluid. What what you think the problem is.
answered this question already
well for me i,d check with the types of choices online and see what,s good on price depending on where i live and what the good reviews are on the products out there etc.
I always forget to check the Reviews, but I think that's important too.
i like that... going on a vacation and not really wanting to be there for how ever "long". Q. for ya though... if it were me i would like to keep the original carb. just to have on hand and know with careful handing i could have a successful o.e.m. rebuild, and to put that back into my stash for a rainy day. what would you think bout doing something like that or do you already have a small stash?!?
I have a stash of metering diaphragms but I don't carry full kits, simply too expensive
Hey thanks for your videos, Ive recently been given a FS 130 that runs very poorly. Ive been going through the check lists of things to do to get it running well again, i have recently ran into a problem where its very difficult to pull the string to start and feels jammed. Ive just checked the recoil assembly and adjusted the valves. but still having troubles. any idea where to look next or what it could be? Thanks!!
interesting, take the plug out and then try pulling it and see if anything comes out of the spark plug opening.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thank you ill give it a try and let you know !
@@HomeGaragechannel Wow interesting when I pull the cord and the spark plug is off, it pulls fine. But when I put the spark plug back in it jams again. What could that be?
is the plug the right one? if the plug is too long it will make contact with the piston
@@HomeGaragechannel Well I’ve had it running before with that same plug in
A few days ago, I was working on a newer echo string trimmer and when I was pulling on the rope to try to start it I noticed that it was pretty quiet which was strange but when I took off the spark arrestor screen I found the first problem the spark arrestor screen was completely clogged with carbon so much so that the engine was not starting on the feel that I put into the carpets throat but after I clean the spark arrestor screen the engines running really well
hey nice work!
Thanks😁
The real culprit in these carbs with the purger/primer bulb are the non return valves in their black base. If either of them leak the metering diaphragm will not function properly. Replacing that part will get the OE carb going. But the AM carbs are a hit or miss for this reason. Their non return valves dont hold properly sometimes out of the box. For this reason i have adapted after market chainsaw carbs on my FS130 and fitted a seperate purger that is used on the FS 120/200/250/400 etc. These carbs are more generous in their scope of H and L adjustments and offer a longer service life, though the initial work for adaptation is quite a lot. Post script. Sometimes the purger valves can be cleaned by pumping liquid detergent and water , with it fitted on a old carb body thathas no metering valve. But that is a gamble
thank you for sharing that
After market carbs work good for the most way to go
I think so, I don't think they'll last as long as the OEM but with care, it will last a few years.
was curious on the engine having valves when the oiled fuel was mentioned, apparently it’s a 4 stroke that doesn’t have a sump and uses the fuel oil mixture like a 2 stroke, funky
yes you are correct, it's quite ingenious but the design is a bit over kill.
I ordered a carb. It came several weeks later from China. I put it in and it ran perfect without adjustment. I took out the little screen. Why do you need two intake filters. Now, I only use the high dollar gas but I only use the Stihl for the heavy jobs with the metal blade. For my normal trimming, I have a DeWalt, 60V trimmer with the companion blower and chain saw.
At 87, I need to conserve energy and stress.
very nice, as for the filters, the outside one is meant for larger items like grass and it's easier clean.
One thing I always do when an engine won’t start is put in fresh fuel and remove the spark plug to add a bit of fuel directly into the chamber. It is surprising the number of times the machine starts and then just keeps running. I run the machine for 15 or 20 minute, which will tend to lubricate the diaphragms and unblock the carburetor.
it works sometimes, but you can't always save a hardened diaphragm that needs replacing.
@@HomeGaragechannel definitely does not always work but it is worth a try! Thx for another excellent video
no problem and thank you
I would have first looked for an OEM carb rebuild kit. Second choice would have been an aftermarket rebuild kit. I want to keep as much original parts on my Stihl equipment as possible.
that makes sense
Hi, I’ve changed my fuel filter on my strimmer, was working perfectly before hand and now won’t start? Any ideas?
sure, how many times have you tried pulling on the rope? Too many failed attempts to start it, might have flooded it. Give a day in the sun, then in the evening try starting it without the choke, then if it doesn't start, use your normal procedure
Mine had similar issues.
I bought a cheap carb and stolen the parts failed on the oem one.
Oem parts expensive and you can't always find them.
Works like new after few hours of use.
nice work, and thank you for your time Ingihan
I'd probably give them the options and then it'd all be on them. If I hadn't broken the throttle shaft on the carb on the electric start I'd have cleaned/rebuilt it but had to get a knockoff BUT it works fine after I worked out the primer issue. Thanks and Happy Weekend
that's a good idea.
@@HomeGaragechannel I get blamed for enough as it is so if I can spread it around it works better. Cuts down on the hollering.
Hello sir can u tell me one thing
About fs 3001 model
In this model chock lever position in running mode?
When I put thechock lever into run mode the engine going shut down
sure, sounds like you need to adjust the carb to deliver more fuel to the engine
A neighbor brought over an antique Stihl chsainsaw and the carb was really messed up. A new OER carb was 'way too much $$$ so we bought a Chinesium version at $12.00.
It included a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, a LOT of fuel line, the clunk/filter, the air filter and the carb.
I put it on and in three pulls it was running perfectly. I never had to adjust anything!
It's still running with the Amazon $12.00 carb three years later and - frankly - if I had to buy a new one for every new cutting season - we'd still be money ahead compared to buying just one Stihl carb.
wow nice, and yes for what they are, the aftermarket works great!
I've seen you do a lot of these videos and you've always just cleaned the carb and replaced the diaphragms. I noticed that these diaphragms are different. Did you replace the carb because the diaphragms are more expensive, and/or you didn't have any to match?
it was the pumping diaphragm, I was too far gone to rejuvenate and I don't carry it either. If I have to replace the purge bulb, metering and the pumping diaphragm that's enough for me to just replace the entire thing.
ive had good luck with cleaning carbs never had to buy a aftermarket thank god but the only time i would consider is if it was my personal machine and i really liked it lol
nice, how many have you had to clean do you think?
Maybe 14 or less im still new to these machines I love learning bout how they work though
Ive never been able to starr my brand new FS 91 R trimmer and I bought the pre mixed fuel that Ace sells you so you can get the extended warranty. Should I just make a warranty claim?
possibly but I'd have someone else try and start it, and see if there's a difference
Do you run non-ethanol gas
yes I do, to bad lots of other people don't
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah, we run ethanol free gas in everything except our cars.
me too!
What do you think about stihl ultra oil they make you run for warranty? I like echo red armor.
I've never used the oil but if you care about the warranty then i would definitely keep using it.
I'd buy the after market frankly as well. Question though have you ever had one of the stihls leak out of the tank vent? Did you just replace the vent or is there a way to "fix" it?
no I haven't and if happened to me, ... I'd probably just replace the entire cap, just easier
When I press the button on top.The skinny button that doesn't say stop. Nothing happens, the choke does not move back to the original spot. The button that you have to press in and twist. What would cause that to not work. Because I can't get it to start. I bought it from a pawnshop. Please respond as soon as you can. Thank you
not sure, I've not had to deal with that problem before
How long would the oem carb last vs aftermarket? If there's no difference is the right move.
well, that's a tough one, if they were both treated well, probably pretty good, but mistreat the both of them, I'm going to guess the aftermarket carb wouldn't last as long. it's up to the owners to make that choice.
Thank you a lot! I really like how you explained in your videos about how to fix this machines I hope I can fix my weed eater Fs91r which start but it dies…
thank you and good luck
I cleaned my stock carb and ordered a $9 rebuild kit. $11 Cheaper than an aftermarket carb.
nice work!
Very helpful video, very nicely done too. Much appreciated👍
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video and audio. Thank you very much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
People just don’t know how to maintain or store equipment from one season to another. They are just to busy to do such mundane stuff, like storing their equipment properly. If it fails to start nex spring they will buy a new one. Every fall I set aside a day to put certain outdoor equipment in storage condition. I crank them up and let them warm up for five minutes. I then pour out all the gas, recrank them and let them idle until they stop for lack of gas. If they have a primer bulb I press it until it is empty while it is idling. I don’t want to leave any gas in the unit when I am through. I then wipe the off with a slightly oily shop rag and hang them up in my shop by their cutter head until next spring.
you couldn't have said it any better.
I like to remove the spark plug and drop in about 1/4 oz of oil on top of the piston. Pull the cord a few times to distribute the oil, and leave the piston at the top of the cylinder. I think my shindaiwa 242 manual said to do that for winterization.
@@MoDogburn that was the tied and true way to winterize an e 50 years ago but seldom practiced, today.. on my stable of Stihl saws I just warm them up, dump out any remaining gas and add a few ounces of Stihl Moto Mix and let them idle until they run out of gas. I then loosen the chain a few turns and put them on a shelf in the shop.
What's the likelihood that ethanol fuel caused that hardening of the diaphragms? And can you purchase the diaphragms separately?
the likely hood is high and that's partly due to having the ethanol fuel, in the fuel system, for a long time. Yes you can buy the diaphragm separately
@@HomeGaragechannel Easy solution to using ethanol fuel is to run the carb dry after each use. When done using tool, pour out remaining gas in tank and then restart tool and run until it quits. Leaving the ethanol fuel in the carb is what kills the carbs/diaphragms.
i have always been very apprehensive about aftermarket/knockoff carbs that aftermarket carb looks exactly the same as the original and performs well i'm quite surprised you didn't have to change the mixture screws my dad dropped off his honda 35cc brushcutter today saying its leaking fuel a quick look and its leaking tons of fuel out of the carb both sections where the membrane material seals the carb sections called honda $106AUD for a new carb i don't think so if its too far gone i will be going down the same road you did
I understand what you're saying
If the after market carb works just fine,then that’s the one I would be buying. Good choice my friend.
thank you William Snow.
Same issue with my Stihl. Used after market carb which worked fine.
Good to know
I find the 4mix engines have a lot more issues than the good old 2 stroke engines
I've heard the same thing too.
Personally I’ve had better luck with the 4mix, though I have found valve adjustments are needed more often than Stihl claims.
@@briantii spot on. Stihl says once then you are good, but heh, nope, you gotta check those valves often. And it literally only takes 10 minutes, unlike what the dealership tries to bill you for.
@@tjclarke4604 And 10 minutes is if you're really taking your time. It's crazy how quick and simple it is to do.
@@briantii Yeah it's true, 10 minutes would also include finishing up the work order and waiting for the gasket and sealing ring from the parts dept to show up at your station. But the dealership will charge the customer and hour, plus shop supplies.... terrible.
Personally I would have gone with an OEM carb kit, but aftermarket is fine too.
you're right the OEM carb would best
The carburetor can it fit stilh 110, 91, and the rest of them ?
as long as it's a 4 mix engine
I got a new kit after mine wouldn’t start and it still won’t start. I’ve noticed after every crank a bunch of oil/gas comes out of the exhaust?
sure thing, after multiple failed attempts to start it, it could have flooded the engine. Take out the spark plug, leave it for a couple of days, and then come back to start it except this time, don't use the choke, and hold the trigger down. If it still won't start, I'd look into getting a new carb and also getting a compression test done
I am confused, you talked about 2 stroke pre mix fuel, then you removed the cover and there are....valves...? Is it 2 or 4 stroke? First time i see something like that
I can understand why. Stihl calls this a 4 mix engine. It has valves like a 4 cycle, but is setup using 2 stroke mix, that way, you can still use it, like a conventional 2 stroke, but not worry about the way you orient the trimmer, because of an oil sump.
I usually just buy a rebuild kit. It has all the parts I need and it costs less than an amazon carburetor.
that works too.
What do you do with the old carbs after replacing them with a new one ? I would sell or keep parts of them like the left over parts from the rebuild kits i've kept over the past year 😃
I just keep them in a box, don't do much with them. They're like little trophies
@@HomeGaragechannel cool sounds like a small engine mechanic's trophy collection to me 😄
yes it does, I like looking at them and remembering what I did
@@HomeGaragechannel i would have done the same, i do that with old pistons and rings too i even got some old diaphragms and other old parts even at the machines i work on and preserve 😄
Haha, I'll keep my trophy, thanks for the video and all the good tips in this post. Now it's time to go whack some weeds finally.
What type of tool did you use to take the bolt off the stihl? It looks like a 6 points
yes I'm using a Torx bit
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks a lot
no problem
Torque T27
@@omarzarate8674 😊thx
I have a stihl fs 55 i rebuild it new ring new head gasket i bought a new carb kit and still not starting it has spark and getting fuel do u have any tips for me pmeasee
sure, have you done a compression test after the rebuild?
Could be the coil or the coil wires shorting the coil out,if it starts when you unhook the coil wires,it's the cut off switch,if it doesn't it's the coil or muffler screen
You already removed the carburetor, are replacement diaphragms are unreliable or they’re hard to order?
no I find them very reliable. finding them is a bit harder but it's not impossible
My fs120’s exhaust doesn’t appear to have a spark arestor . Can’t find anything on it
is it used? Maybe someone took it out before you got it.
@@HomeGaragechannel there’s no place for one no screw. I’ve ordered a new muffler and it looks the same
@Home Garage Would replacing the diaphragm(s) be affordable? Or would this be opening up a new can of worms?
it's worth it for the most part, it's just that sometime there's an issue with the carb itself
I bought an MTD trimmer recently, i used it about 5-6 times and now it starts, runs for a couple seconds and then it shuts off. I know that's not a lot to go on but do you have any idea what might be the problem?
I think I do, as long as those 5 to 6 times was this year, and last year. I would try adjusting the carb first before diving into the carb.
@@HomeGaragechannel ok, thanks.
no problem
Very curious to know how many hours and usage I got.
Hi condition and coloring of the bulb on the carburetor I’m betting it’s 10 to 15 years old. Spark, plug and magneto may be bad. I obviously have not seen the whole video yet, but I’m sure you’ll go through everything.
Nice video!
thanks
What is your opinion on stihl four-strokes?
I'd rather not have them. I've had a couple and I don't care for them
@@HomeGaragechannel how about thoses Honda four-stroke weed eater?
I have one, it's great, but heavy and suffers the same maintenance issue, check oil, check valve lash.
Thanks, this is very interesting as I've faced similar issues with my 2 strokes.What works for me is to buy an OEM rebuild kit if possible and then also, a pattern Chinese carb for standby.I found in my Stihl fs 50, strimmer , both diaphragms were very tired after only two seasons 😢, the fuel pump diaphragm seems to be made from acetate and the longevity is poor in my machine. So no problems for me with a pattern carb as it can't be any worse 🙃 .Best Regards and thanks again 😊 Ian 🇬🇧
thank you Ian.