Just installed this fantastic clip system, thank you so much for an awesome design and execution! I put a small dab of Vaseline into the nut sockets of the rear body piece to hold the nuts in place during installation. Everyone knows Vaseline makes everything work better! 😁
I just installed the clips, and they work great. If you remove the two screws on the end of the frame rails you can pop the cross-member off with the rear bumper. This makes it a breeze to install the rear clip.
Just ordered these a few minutes ago. Looking forward to making the body easier to remove and especially put back on. Thanks a lot for making and selling these.
I already have two Scx10.3s that are fitted with your brilliant clipless system. I knew when I ordered my CJ7 I'd be ordering as soon as you made them available. Good show; Mr Fine.
You rock dude! I equipment my scx6 honcho and my scx10 bronco. They work so nice. I will confess though,the rear latch on the bronco is really hard to get with your sway bar mount installed too. At least with my fat fingers lol keep up the great work!!
Hey feel free to shoot me a message on my website contact form, or through Etsy. I would be happy to help take a look and see what might be the issue! As shown in the video you do have to pull it down with your hands, but not sure if that’s the issue you are having or if it is something different. Sending me photos will definitely help with troubleshooting.
Formlabs Tough 2000 is stronger than PLA and significantly less brittle. This is engineering grade resin and not the cheap stuff that you might be used to experiencing in the past. You can find all the data sheets for this resin on Formlabs website if you’re curious to learn more about it.
@@kevin_fine I am familiar, definitely. From my experience the PLA pro and + I use is quite strong without the brittle factor of resin, hence why I was wanting files so I can run a PLA or Nylon one instead. If you don't mind I'll take the video into solid works and just put the calipers. Great idea.
@@Cranklotus yea feel free to experiment no issues with that. Just don’t appreciate people who knock off the design to sell cheap or give away, but you’re not going to do that so I truly appreciate it. Wish you best of luck with your experiments. I’ve had great luck with this resin and I’ll honestly be shocked if anybody breaks this design (it’d have to be one heck of a crash to break it).
@@Webb4RC I'm sorry I don't own that body and chassis so other than suggesting the stock body posts and drilling I don't know what else is out there for that truck.
Sorry I do not sell the files. Since I perform Finite Element Analysis (FEA) on all my designs that means I’m designing for the specific material I’m printing in (this case Formlabs Tough 2000). That means that printing in any of your typical FDM materials would almost certainly result in a bad experience and a non-functioning part. The Tough 2000 resin is stronger than some injection molded materials and it holds up great.
Do you have, or will you have a similar system for the Redcat 64 Impala Lowrider? The stock system is a pain in the butt, because you have to turn the whole car upside down and place it on this big foam cushion with holes for the antennas to get to the body pins on the underside of the car, but if you don't place it perfectly on the foam, the antennas break, so I switched to a magnetic mounting system, but the double-sided tape that secures the magnets to the chassis wears out. A system like this would be great for the impala.
I have not looked into that truck at this time, but I can check it out and see if there is enough demand for a design to be made. No promises but will check it out!
The main reason I don't recommend picking it up by the cage is you're putting all the stress through the clipless parts. I design them so they can take it, but over time (many months of use) the parts will stretch and become looser. That's why I made a video on how to reset them with a heat gun. You can pick it up by the cage, but I don't recommend you walk around solely carrying it by the cage. Pick it up by the cage, but then hold it by the chassis once its in the air for example. Hopefully that helps make sense! Let me know if you have further questions always happy to help!
My order arrived today for my new Axial CJ7. This video really helps me figure out how to install the parts. Thank you!
Why can’t AXIAL’s team of NASA engineers design a part like this? Great Job Kevin 👍
Probably due to legal issues with Traxxas
Just installed this fantastic clip system, thank you so much for an awesome design and execution! I put a small dab of Vaseline into the nut sockets of the rear body piece to hold the nuts in place during installation. Everyone knows Vaseline makes everything work better! 😁
My order just arrived!! About to install. Thanks for the fast shipping too🤘🏽
I just installed the clips, and they work great. If you remove the two screws on the end of the frame rails you can pop the cross-member off with the rear bumper. This makes it a breeze to install the rear clip.
Just got done installing this kit on my CJ7. Super happy with the quality and ease of installation.
Kevin, you're a life saver . I run your clips on all my rigs
Just ordered these a few minutes ago. Looking forward to making the body easier to remove and especially put back on. Thanks a lot for making and selling these.
Heck YEA!!! Just ordered a set!!! I have your mounts on most of my rigs!!!! They work great!!!🤘🤘🤘
I already have two Scx10.3s that are fitted with your brilliant clipless system. I knew when I ordered my CJ7 I'd be ordering as soon as you made them available. Good show; Mr Fine.
Hey GREAT product, just fitted clipless to my CJ7 and it is AWESOME. Thanks Mr Fine
Omg!! Thank you!! Just got my cj7 today and already frustrated with the current system. Just ordered your amazing product! Let’s Goooo!!
sweeeeeet!!!!!!!!!!! got a set for the bronco now i need a set for my jeep
received mine today. easy Installation, very solid and so much better than god damn body clips.
thanks Kevin!
u did what axial cant do it for years! but is hard for them to inovate.
Just installed mine.....THANKS!
Just installed your kit on my CJ and it’s so much better now. Thanks.
Mine arrived today, got it installed and just wanted to say Thank you! Brilliant addition for sure !! 🔥☠️🔥👍
Thanks for making these! Ordered one last night. The ones from you that I have on my phoenix rigs are superb!
It's genius in it's simplicity!
Just ordered mine, look great can’t wait for them to arrive
Ordered! Dude thank you!
You rock dude! I equipment my scx6 honcho and my scx10 bronco. They work so nice. I will confess though,the rear latch on the bronco is really hard to get with your sway bar mount installed too. At least with my fat fingers lol keep up the great work!!
EXCELLENT. I was hoping you would do this for the CJ-7! 👍✌️
Awesome! Ordered me up a set. Thank you for this.
Put mine in tonite, it was easy peazy. Just had to reroute my winch wiring.
Well done.
Just ordered these! Thanks
Thank you! Will start shipping orders out on the 29th, and into the new year!
@@kevin_finethat works for me. Thank you and Happy New Year
This is good. I bought this system for my axial early bronco.
THANK GOD FOR YOUR INOVATION!!!
I’ve picked up one as well and want to do the clippers body mounts as well
Thanks for the info...
Nice👍🏾 I have 2 SCX10.3s, an Early Bronco, and the Gladiator. Nice 👍🏾 💯🔥
👍
THAT would have been perfect on my UMG-10 Unimog... Those clips were a PAIN!!! 😖😭
Have you made kits for any other bodies?
Yes I have! I have made ones for the unimog! You can find them on my website and Etsy store as well!
sick creation but be careful for traxxas looks pretty similar to their clipless mount
Do you have this clip clipless body mounting system for the SCX10 lll Ford bronco? If so can you send me a link. Thanks
Yes I do, if you search that on my channel page or go to my website in the description and head to the axial section you’ll find it!
Has anyone had trouble with the rear clip not catching at times? or am I doing something wrong?
Hey feel free to shoot me a message on my website contact form, or through Etsy. I would be happy to help take a look and see what might be the issue! As shown in the video you do have to pull it down with your hands, but not sure if that’s the issue you are having or if it is something different. Sending me photos will definitely help with troubleshooting.
I forgot about pulling it down with my hand part, my goof, ok never mind, and thank you for the response.@@kevin_fine
Will this work with aftermarket bumpers?
Yup! As long as they don’t interfere with the area the latch takes up (which is inside the body so highly unlikely). They’ll work just fine!
@@kevin_fine I just installed the clips. Super easy and no more impossible to reach pins. Instructions were very helpful.
Thank you!
Can you do PLA? The resin is pretty brittle in my experience.
Formlabs Tough 2000 is stronger than PLA and significantly less brittle. This is engineering grade resin and not the cheap stuff that you might be used to experiencing in the past. You can find all the data sheets for this resin on Formlabs website if you’re curious to learn more about it.
@@kevin_fine I am familiar, definitely. From my experience the PLA pro and + I use is quite strong without the brittle factor of resin, hence why I was wanting files so I can run a PLA or Nylon one instead. If you don't mind I'll take the video into solid works and just put the calipers. Great idea.
@@Cranklotus yea feel free to experiment no issues with that. Just don’t appreciate people who knock off the design to sell cheap or give away, but you’re not going to do that so I truly appreciate it. Wish you best of luck with your experiments. I’ve had great luck with this resin and I’ll honestly be shocked if anybody breaks this design (it’d have to be one heck of a crash to break it).
I wonder if that'll fit the Jeep Cherokee hard body for the Axial SCX 10....
Unfortunately it would not as these are designed for the specific body and respective chassis.
@@kevin_fine Can you make one for me?
@@kevin_fine or what you suggest I use as a body mount. I don't wanna drill holes in my new body.
@@Webb4RC I'm sorry I don't own that body and chassis so other than suggesting the stock body posts and drilling I don't know what else is out there for that truck.
@@Webb4RC I'm sorry I need the truck to make the parts and I unfortunately do not have the time to work on older models.
Were can i buy this kit at
Links are in the video description! Can find it at finelaserdesigns.com
Do you share files? Id love to just print myself some for personal use.
Sorry I do not sell the files. Since I perform Finite Element Analysis (FEA) on all my designs that means I’m designing for the specific material I’m printing in (this case Formlabs Tough 2000). That means that printing in any of your typical FDM materials would almost certainly result in a bad experience and a non-functioning part. The Tough 2000 resin is stronger than some injection molded materials and it holds up great.
@@kevin_fine nice, looks like it's to solid works I go. Great idea, I'll be printing in carbon reinforced nylon.
Do you have, or will you have a similar system for the Redcat 64 Impala Lowrider? The stock system is a pain in the butt, because you have to turn the whole car upside down and place it on this big foam cushion with holes for the antennas to get to the body pins on the underside of the car, but if you don't place it perfectly on the foam, the antennas break, so I switched to a magnetic mounting system, but the double-sided tape that secures the magnets to the chassis wears out. A system like this would be great for the impala.
I have not looked into that truck at this time, but I can check it out and see if there is enough demand for a design to be made. No promises but will check it out!
You just said you don't recommend to be picking it up by the cage. However, when you're on the trail. That's how it's picked up, ...........so what??
The main reason I don't recommend picking it up by the cage is you're putting all the stress through the clipless parts. I design them so they can take it, but over time (many months of use) the parts will stretch and become looser. That's why I made a video on how to reset them with a heat gun. You can pick it up by the cage, but I don't recommend you walk around solely carrying it by the cage. Pick it up by the cage, but then hold it by the chassis once its in the air for example. Hopefully that helps make sense! Let me know if you have further questions always happy to help!