This is the most professional explanation for a timing belt I've ever seen. Your camera views, lighting, and audio are so much better when the engine is on a stand.
Not that I think but you are my best teacher so far coz you know how to explain things.... thank you my teacher for the good work you are doing.please I would love to be your spanner boy so that I learn more..... thanks
Excellent! My A/C tensioner pulley bearing disintegrated and gouged the center plastic timing belt cover. Not certain if any debris fell inside. I plan on buying "conti tec" belt kit as well as new cover to install. Your video is a godsend!
@thepracticalmechanic I was fighting with this god damned timing belt for five hours. You showed me the “loosen the cog wheel” trick and in five minutes, it was on. Thank you so much.
One more remark gents-had 2nights playng with same engine timing,exactly as described etc. Result-engine bad smell cranks ok but no power 800rpm max.and days suddenly. Checked timing several times-no errors by obd . What i found today is crankshaft gear where shaft magnetic sensor reads was missing one teeth-replaced gear and works as a dream
unfortunately I don't understand your language, but here in Brazil I'm suffering from a lack of professionals to work with my subarus, even without understanding what you said I'm going to risk changing. thank you
Again, thank you for your advice. I don’t know why there are so many marks on the sprockets in this car. I followed your advice and used the cast in marks. The car started up and idled as smooth as glass. It hasn’t run this good since it was new. I only wish Subaru had used a stud instead of a bolt to mount the tensioner. Getting that damned bolt started can be the must frustrating job. Or a bolt with a reduced diameter tip so it will get into the hole easier. Thanks again.
That deficiency of gaskets that come with a re-man pump are seen in other situations, too. This week I just redid gaskets on a Suburban after new gaskets failed. It seems the torque specs for my vehicle don't permit the higher torque needed for generic gaskets, ha ha.
I didn't know you were supposed to torque the crank bolt. The last timing belt I changed I just put it on there with the impact gun until it was tight!
Great video! I noticed that you didn't install the L shaped seal on the LH side, rear timing cover. Also, the tensioner has a rubber band that holds the washer in place... you left that on and installed it. I'm not sure what that would cause.
@ThePracticalMechanic Are the 2 Cam Gears interchangeable? More specifically, could I use a Left (Driver Side) Cam Gear for the Right (Passenger Side) Cam Gear? I've seen a mechanic do it in another video but without mentioning anything. I only have the special wrench for the left cam gear, but I have an extra left cam gear that I would like to put on the right to make it easier to torque.
The left cam gear (right side if you’re looking at it from the front of the engine) has a couple of metal teeth that are required for the camshaft position sensor. They also have a different offset so the belt alignment will be incorrect if swapped.
I've got some problems with my water pump in subaru forester which the water licks out and there's a little hole in the under-side of the water pump. I'm so confused whether to block it or leave it as that?
As long as they are stored in an upright position they shouldn’t need bled. I know the gates timing belt kits have a warning included now that mentions this but I don’t recall if it’s in the factory service manual. 10 cycles of fully compressed and extended only takes a few minutes now that we have an arbor press. The other press takes much longer and using a clamp and a vise is slow but doable.
Hi there I have fully rebuild my mom's subaru 2.5 single cam and the cheap belt tensioner has failed twice in less than 50 miles the engine will run fine every time I swap the tensioner with a new one but will skip a tooth the next day of just idling im going crazy should I stick to oem? Help thx
How much time is put into this work. Im needing timing belt, i still have yet to take my 2001 Subaru outback to a mechanic i called for a quote of 1,500 and another quote at 1,600. My engine light came on while I was driving in a school zone under 5mph coasting.
Timing belt normally won’t cause an engine light to pop up. Most Subaru timing belt jobs are in and out of the shop the same day depending on other work sold at the same time.
Is that cam sprocket tool meant for other fittings but also works with the big hex one here in the video? All the tools that look like that says that they are for 08+ wrx but they are way cheaper than the one specific for this fitting @21:00
Yes this cam holding tool is designed for slightly different cam gear. I only use it for tightening the bolt and typically use the impact for loosening. Sometimes these bolts will get extremely tight and you can chip the plastic if using the this tool for removal.
At last. Someone went into greater detail in the timing belt replacement. You mentioned the key way should be at 6:00. Nobody else said that. Thank you. I had the crankshaft 180 out. I had the key at 12:00. The other two sprockets were on their marks. Or so I thought. I had the blue dots on the marks. The right side cam has only a white dot. The crank sprocket has a blue and white on opposite sides. The left cam has a white and blue dot. The white one is smaller and easy to miss. This time I lined up all the white dots and it started. It ran like crap but it wasn’t blowing smoke out of the intake. It idles very rough now. Could the left (DS) cam be on the wrong mark? Should it be on the blue one rather than white? They are about an inch apart with the white one to the left of the blue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
@@jimgordon3206 there should be a mark molded into the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket. I ignore the paint marks and use the molded marks and then line them up with the marks on the new belt. If your reusing the belt or the belt doesn’t not have marks I would line the camshaft marks up to 12 o’clock position and line the mark on the crank sprocket around the 12 o’clock position as well. There is a matching mark on the oil pump that should line up with the mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thank you very much for replying and doing so almost right away. I had a feeling you would because your videos are so thorough. Have a great evening.
Looking to check out a 2005 Subaru Forester XT with 175k miles on it . Owner says he had the timing belt and head gasket done at 150k … but never did the water pump. Said he had the water pump inspected at 174k miles and there weren’t any concerns about it. How important is it to have the water pump done? Should I be leery of anything and just move on?
I normally set them flush with head surface. That is where most are when I remove them. If I have a camshaft with a slight groove worn in from the seal I will drive it deeper to prevent leaks.
If I have already removed the timimg belt and pullies how to I rotate the camshafts into position? I moved the crank alignment after the belt was off...
As long as the crankshaft alignment marks line up you can rotate the camshaft safely. When the marks line up on the crankshaft timing gear all of the pistons are midway in the cylinder allowing you room to rotate the camshafts and the valve will have plenty of room.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I still have the engine in the car. Only thing removed was the timing belt and and pullies. I never rotated the crank while the belt was on to align the cams. I missed that step and can't put the belt and pullies back on to do that because I have already rotated the crank... Do I need to loosen then cam pully bolts now in order to rotate them?
@@whoknows1631 you can leave the cam pulleys tight. You will need to rotate the crankshaft into place but make sure you don’t feel hard resistance while rotating. You feel some resistance while compressing the air in the cylinders but if you feel a hard stop the piston is probably pressing up against a valve. There is an area where each camshaft can be place to ensure the valves are retracted. This spot on the passenger side will be with the timing mark pointing up. On the driver side if the marks line up the valves will be open so you will want to use a wrench (not a ratchet) to rotate the camshaft slowly counter clockwise will you can rotate the cam freely side to side. This small area is where the driver side valves are closed. If you feel hard resistance at any point while rotating stop because the valves may be hitting the piston. If the crankshaft sprocket mark lines up you can move the camshaft without fear of hitting the pistons.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Really appreciated 😁 How do I remove the crankshaft bolt without rotating the crank? With everything off I put it bolt back into the crank and want to remove it now...
Great video. The suspense is killing me. Did episode 7 never get made? I can't find it. Next summer I'll be attempting this on my 04FXT... maybe you can use mine to film ep7 haha.
This is the most professional explanation for a timing belt I've ever seen. Your camera views, lighting, and audio are so much better when the engine is on a stand.
Not that I think but you are my best teacher so far coz you know how to explain things.... thank you my teacher for the good work you are doing.please I would love to be your spanner boy so that I learn more..... thanks
At last found a professional clip with torque values supplied during the steps.
Excellent! My A/C tensioner pulley bearing disintegrated and gouged the center plastic timing belt cover. Not certain if any debris fell inside. I plan on buying "conti tec" belt kit as well as new cover to install. Your video is a godsend!
Now you costing me money. I’v got to have A set of those super deep sockets and a seal puller tool. Nice video. 👍👍
LOL I know the feeling. Sometimes I take a break from watching youtube so I can save money.
Years nice work that job
@thepracticalmechanic I was fighting with this god damned timing belt for five hours. You showed me the “loosen the cog wheel” trick and in five minutes, it was on. Thank you so much.
The last idler is the key. Finding the hole is worse than first time sex 🤨. After you’ve done it a few times it’s much easier.
Best video I have watch , that's how all videos should be done .Every thing was explained in detail 👌 great gob
One more remark gents-had 2nights playng with same engine timing,exactly as described etc.
Result-engine bad smell cranks ok but no power 800rpm max.and days suddenly.
Checked timing several times-no errors by obd .
What i found today is crankshaft gear where shaft magnetic sensor reads was missing one teeth-replaced gear and works as a dream
I'm not getting notified of any channels in the last week. I'm not sure what's changed so I had to come look for you. I want to see this dude run!
YT knows you went camping and now it's probably filling your feed with camping, fishing and Jeeps.
Fantastic explanation. A real life saver! Thank you very much for your help!
Your videos are the best. Thanks.
unfortunately I don't understand your language, but here in Brazil I'm suffering from a lack of professionals to work with my subarus, even without understanding what you said I'm going to risk changing. thank you
Great video man. Steps, details, and part numbers you added were def helpful.
Again, thank you for your advice. I don’t know why there are so many marks on the sprockets in this car. I followed your advice and used the cast in marks. The car started up and idled as smooth as glass. It hasn’t run this good since it was new. I only wish Subaru had used a stud instead of a bolt to mount the tensioner. Getting that damned bolt started can be the must frustrating job. Or a bolt with a reduced diameter tip so it will get into the hole easier.
Thanks again.
No problem. I’m glad everything worked out in the end.
File down the tip of the bolt to a semi-pointed/rounded tip, with a good sharp steel file
Thanks for this video, concise and understandable. Well done.
Ah man thank you just you showing me your cam gear pulled out and going back in that's my new reference for timing gonna have to measure..
I love to see how you do the twin cam pulley timing and replace the water pump and the seal subaru forester 🙏🏽
so odd i bought one of those seal tools and haven't used it yet thought it would be handy nice to see it used
That deficiency of gaskets that come with a re-man pump are seen in other situations, too. This week I just redid gaskets on a Suburban after new gaskets failed. It seems the torque specs for my vehicle don't permit the higher torque needed for generic gaskets, ha ha.
I didn't know you were supposed to torque the crank bolt. The last timing belt I changed I just put it on there with the impact gun until it was tight!
Great video! I noticed that you didn't install the L shaped seal on the LH side, rear timing cover. Also, the tensioner has a rubber band that holds the washer in place... you left that on and installed it. I'm not sure what that would cause.
Молодець. Михайло!!!!!!
Man its amazing! Thank you 👍
very good video thank you
Great, this is too professional. What is the part number for the timing belt
Thank for video🥂
Thankyou
excellent video brotherman
Thank you mate
Great video. Thanks
21:45 those seals do not contain oil. If you have oil in your timing belt assembly, you have big problems.
@ThePracticalMechanic Are the 2 Cam Gears interchangeable? More specifically, could I use a Left (Driver Side) Cam Gear for the Right (Passenger Side) Cam Gear? I've seen a mechanic do it in another video but without mentioning anything. I only have the special wrench for the left cam gear, but I have an extra left cam gear that I would like to put on the right to make it easier to torque.
The left cam gear (right side if you’re looking at it from the front of the engine) has a couple of metal teeth that are required for the camshaft position sensor. They also have a different offset so the belt alignment will be incorrect if swapped.
Very good 👌
I've got some problems with my water pump in subaru forester which the water licks out and there's a little hole in the under-side of the water pump. I'm so confused whether to block it or leave it as that?
That is the weep hole. It’s designed to leak out of that hole when the seal fails on the water pump.
It needs the water pump replaced.
How come the hydraulic tensioner wasn't bled?
As long as they are stored in an upright position they shouldn’t need bled. I know the gates timing belt kits have a warning included now that mentions this but I don’t recall if it’s in the factory service manual. 10 cycles of fully compressed and extended only takes a few minutes now that we have an arbor press. The other press takes much longer and using a clamp and a vise is slow but doable.
Hi there I have fully rebuild my mom's subaru 2.5 single cam and the cheap belt tensioner has failed twice in less than 50 miles the engine will run fine every time I swap the tensioner with a new one but will skip a tooth the next day of just idling im going crazy should I stick to oem? Help thx
How much time is put into this work. Im needing timing belt, i still have yet to take my 2001 Subaru outback to a mechanic i called for a quote of 1,500 and another quote at 1,600. My engine light came on while I was driving in a school zone under 5mph coasting.
Timing belt normally won’t cause an engine light to pop up. Most Subaru timing belt jobs are in and out of the shop the same day depending on other work sold at the same time.
Is that cam sprocket tool meant for other fittings but also works with the big hex one here in the video? All the tools that look like that says that they are for 08+ wrx but they are way cheaper than the one specific for this fitting @21:00
Yes this cam holding tool is designed for slightly different cam gear. I only use it for tightening the bolt and typically use the impact for loosening. Sometimes these bolts will get extremely tight and you can chip the plastic if using the this tool for removal.
@@ThePracticalMechanic This is 100% what I need to know. The forums and fb groups were not helpful. Thank you so so much🤘
Is my 2001 outback EJ251 ruined if my timing belt broke, or can I just replace belt?
Most of the time you end up with bent valves which is what happened to this engine. Sometimes you get lucky and it will be fine with a new belt.
At last. Someone went into greater detail in the timing belt replacement. You mentioned the key way should be at 6:00. Nobody else said that. Thank you. I had the crankshaft 180 out. I had the key at 12:00. The other two sprockets were on their marks. Or so I thought. I had the blue dots on the marks. The right side cam has only a white dot. The crank sprocket has a blue and white on opposite sides. The left cam has a white and blue dot. The white one is smaller and easy to miss. This time I lined up all the white dots and it started. It ran like crap but it wasn’t blowing smoke out of the intake. It idles very rough now. Could the left (DS) cam be on the wrong mark? Should it be on the blue one rather than white? They are about an inch apart with the white one to the left of the blue.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
I forget to mention the obd2 code says the cam sensor is not getting the right info. Or it’s bad.
@@jimgordon3206 there should be a mark molded into the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket. I ignore the paint marks and use the molded marks and then line them up with the marks on the new belt. If your reusing the belt or the belt doesn’t not have marks I would line the camshaft marks up to 12 o’clock position and line the mark on the crank sprocket around the 12 o’clock position as well. There is a matching mark on the oil pump that should line up with the mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
@@ThePracticalMechanic
Thank you very much for replying and doing so almost right away. I had a feeling you would because your videos are so thorough. Have a great evening.
can you pin a list of tools required (and recommendations) at the top of the comments please?
Looking to check out a 2005 Subaru Forester XT with 175k miles on it . Owner says he had the timing belt and head gasket done at 150k … but never did the water pump. Said he had the water pump inspected at 174k miles and there weren’t any concerns about it. How important is it to have the water pump done? Should I be leery of anything and just move on?
Honestly the water pumps are rarely an issue but they often get changed while we are in there just to give the whole job a warranty.
Do the cam seals go in all the way until they bottom out or is there a set depth they must be installed at?
I normally set them flush with head surface. That is where most are when I remove them.
If I have a camshaft with a slight groove worn in from the seal I will drive it deeper to prevent leaks.
@@ThePracticalMechaniccould I ask you a question with a timing problem I’m having with my Subaru Forester 2.5x ?
If I did that exact same thing on the timing. Why does my timing light say 10 degree BTDC? Any thoughts?
Since the timing is computer controlled it will vary depending on current operating conditions. 10 BTDC at idle is pretty normal for most engines.
What kind of ratchet are you using?
If I have already removed the timimg belt and pullies how to I rotate the camshafts into position? I moved the crank alignment after the belt was off...
As long as the crankshaft alignment marks line up you can rotate the camshaft safely. When the marks line up on the crankshaft timing gear all of the pistons are midway in the cylinder allowing you room to rotate the camshafts and the valve will have plenty of room.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I still have the engine in the car. Only thing removed was the timing belt and and pullies. I never rotated the crank while the belt was on to align the cams. I missed that step and can't put the belt and pullies back on to do that because I have already rotated the crank... Do I need to loosen then cam pully bolts now in order to rotate them?
@@whoknows1631 you can leave the cam pulleys tight. You will need to rotate the crankshaft into place but make sure you don’t feel hard resistance while rotating. You feel some resistance while compressing the air in the cylinders but if you feel a hard stop the piston is probably pressing up against a valve.
There is an area where each camshaft can be place to ensure the valves are retracted. This spot on the passenger side will be with the timing mark pointing up. On the driver side if the marks line up the valves will be open so you will want to use a wrench (not a ratchet) to rotate the camshaft slowly counter clockwise will you can rotate the cam freely side to side. This small area is where the driver side valves are closed. If you feel hard resistance at any point while rotating stop because the valves may be hitting the piston.
If the crankshaft sprocket mark lines up you can move the camshaft without fear of hitting the pistons.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Really appreciated 😁
How do I remove the crankshaft bolt without rotating the crank? With everything off I put it bolt back into the crank and want to remove it now...
Great video. The suspense is killing me. Did episode 7 never get made? I can't find it. Next summer I'll be attempting this on my 04FXT... maybe you can use mine to film ep7 haha.
What's the difference in this process with a 2009 forester?
Everything will be the same for the timing belt install but the water pump will look slightly different.
Did a assume job explaining.
water pump will last for 400 thousand miles on a Subaru
Could you answer a question I’m having with my Subaru’s timing ?
What kind of issue are you having?
@@ThePracticalMechanic any chance you could call me? I can explain it better over the phone.
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