How to Waterproof a Basement | Ron Hazelton's House Calls feat. Basement Systems
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
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Like many homeowners across the US, Ron Hazelton had a flooding basement which kept him awake during heavy rain periods. The problem was so serious that after each storm he had to use a mop and a floor sucker to get rid of the rising waters.
After a particularly messy flooding episode, he decided that it was time to get the problem solved once and for all. He scoured the internet for companies providing state-of-the-art basement waterproofing solutions -- and found Basement Systems.
Larry Janesky, the company's owner, came to inspect Ron's home. After a thorough evaluation, Larry was able to explain to Ron exactly what the problem was and what would be the perfect solution.
Like many others with similar problems, Ron's basement was flooding because during heavy rains the ground around his house would oversaturate with water. Hydrostatic pressure would begin to build up and push water against the wall. Following the path of least resistance, the water would then find its way into the basement through its weakest spot: the joint between the foundation walls and floor.
More evidence of this problem was found all over the basement walls, in the form of efflorescence. Efflorescence is a chalky, powdery substance that builds up on basement walls when mineral-saturated water infiltrates the concrete and then evaporates into the basement, leaving these mineral salts behind.
The solution for this type of problem resides in relieving the hydrostatic pressure by installing an internal perimeter drainage system. The system intercepts water before it enters the basement, diverts it to a sump pump system, and then evacuates it out and as far away from the foundation as possible.
Larry and his crew at Basement Systems installed a full perimeter WaterGuard basement drainage system, and a TripleSafe sump pump system with two backup pumps, so that Ron can rest assured his basement will stay dry no matter how heavy the rains -- and even in case of a power outage!
The unsightly, efflorescence stained walls were covered with BrightWall acrylic panels. These panels not only spruce up the look of the walls, they also act as a vapor barrier, and intercept any water coming through the concrete walls, diverting it to the perimeter drainage.
Ron can now enjoy peace of mind and sleep soundly through storms, knowing that his basement now has the best protection against flooding available in industry!
Basement Systems is the world's leader in developing basement waterproofing, basement finishing and foundation repair solutions. With over 20 years of success and unparalleled expertise, award-winning products, outstanding quality in customer care, and a dealership network of over 300 dealers across the U.S., Canada, the U.K., and Ireland, there's no better place to find the best solutions for basements, crawl spaces, and foundations.
Visit our website or call to locate a dealer near you and schedule your free, in-home inspection.
No, I don't think to keep the water behind the plastic panel is a good idea. You are going to have a lot molds in your basement....
Have you discovered a new kind of mold that feeds on concrete or plastic? Mold doesn’t form without a food source.
@@patty109109Kind of agree with other guy. I see mold on everything at one time or another. Moisture is a bitch. I am about to start trying to solve a crawl space leak and I dread every second of it as I will probably not have satisfaction.🦇
@@patty109109I have mold on my cement block in my basement.
With constant water, his concrete wall will get eaten from the acid in the water and eventually have a collapse. This should be a criminal conviction and put away for being a snake oil salesman.
seems like a good point there
like collapse after 200yrs by then we are not sure we''ll be here on this planet
Problem right off the bat. The drain needs to be at the bottom of the footer. This will not stop water coming through the floor.
When you think about it, Ron may have turned his basement into one giant sump pit. You must maintain the battery and replace the pumps every 7 to ten years.
The very last line of defense for water coming into a basement is a french drain and sump pump. You don't want to let water into your house so you can pump it out. Keep it outside if at all possible.
The first thing to check for basement water is roof water and where it discharges. Keeping gutters clean and drain paths clear is part of this. Just as important is the pitch of the property. Is water running towards the house across a patio or driveway? Are the grounds sloped toward the house? Where does the neighbor's water go? Was any attempt made to channel the water away from outside the steps assembly or did the contractor just concede "all basement steps leak"? The above solves over 90% of basement water problems. After that, I'd re-access and if there's still a problem, just a simple well & sump pump in the lowest corner could work as a last line of defense.
I would not use those white panels anywhere except possibly behind the electrical. Do they breath? Great to promote mold.
The flaking on the wall will stop when outdoor water is channeled or run away from the house.
Instead of paying someone to maintain your sump pump system every year, I'd pay to have my gutters, down spouts and drainage cleaned regularly. I need to know a little more, but it's a good bet this guy got ripped off.
Why do you believe he got ripped off?
@@mikebevan1034 Everything I wrote above. He should've spoken to others. Does this company do outdoor drainage? He was sold the most expensive but still has water coming thru his walls and into his house. The first pic at the beginning tells it all.
@@mikebevan1034 I've been researching and reading all over the internet and he kinda did get ripped off. Sold him the most expensive "fix" that probably won't actually solve the problem. Just look at the end where the water drops out at, the waters just gonna pool there. Yeah looks like he ran 20ft of piping but the water still only lands like 2ft from the foundation. Also when they installed the corners for the drainage system notice they had no bottoms. The waters gonna hit the corners and have to build up to a certain level to ever even flow down the channels. Watch it again, dude installing it is a grade A sells man. 🤦♂️ "yearly maintenance" keep that money a flowing.
I can tell you don’t live in my town. Installation of a sump pump is standard in all homes, both old and new, unless it’s possible to install a gravity drain.
Grading is important but when your water table is 2-3’ during some periods of the year those efforts won’t amount to much. I’ve superb grading, and I live on a hill, yet my sump runs multiple times an hour. It’s just the nature of my property.
@@patty109109Your property is on a hill, but your water table is 2-3'. 2-3' under ground level? I can't imagine what it's like for your downhill neighbors. My comment was on the above video. They are all precautions and adjustments people should consider before having messy, expensive work done inside their house. Can an external french drain work in your neighborhood?
Maybe address the outside drainage problems first.
Yeap - it is bad that these guys did not take care of it outside.
Like what?
Like gutters, french drain, or slope around the perimeter of the foundation. All of them would be more effective at keeping the water from getting there in the first place.
@@LibertyFixxxer Make sure the gutters are working properly and discharge far away from the foundation. Grade the topsoil to drain away from the house. Run edging three feet around the perimeter of the foundation. Use soil to create as steep of a pitch as possible, away from the foundation, in between the edging and foundation. Keep the pitch aesthetically pleasing. Lay impermeable landscaping fabric on top of the soil from the foundation to the edging. Put 3" of 2-3" stone on top of the fabric. If there is a lot of water problems you can dig a trench before the edging and lay drain tile on the fabric then cover with the rock. I like using sewer pipe pvc that the downspout of the gutter directs into. Get that dug down below the frost line close to where the downspout attaches to it as possible. In the winter they can freeze and back up when snow melts on the roof. Run it out far away from the foundation to a rain garden. The sump pump discharge and drain tile under the landscaping rock can discharge into the pvc sewer pipe. The pvc is typically less expensive than corrugated drain tile and you can snake it if it gets clogged.
Oh and buy a leaf blower to blow out your nice stone regularly. Otherwise organic material turns to soil and weeding anything with fabric underneath is a nightmare, but that's also how I put myself through college.
I thought you were smarter than that. I bet your basement smells musty and still have mold. I'm a Roofer above grade and below grade membranes. I've done a lot of basement water proofing and I know you have cracks in your walls. You need to dig out the dirt around the outside of your basement wall and seal it correctly and put some french drains to devert any water that acuminates on and by the concrete walls. Anyway I think you should of thurally researched the problem instead of throwing a dart at the yellow pages to pick a contractor. Let us know on the results of the basement project. I'm not here to laugh I'm here to see a project done right. There a lot of people that watch and there going to do the same thing you did but be disappointed at the results. I'm a fan and still watching.
How much is a proper membrane and french drain install on a home on average?
@@sethshaffer8592 it's just digging around the house down to the footings and putting in a drain same as inside and putting in polyurethane square sheets against your wall then filling it back with dirt.
I bought my house about 3 years ago. PO at some point had this exact same setup installed because they had at least 1 flood (there are still indicators of the flood line in parts of the basement). I have started working on the basement as one of my projects and have begun to remove the white panels and see evidence of seepage through the block and joints. You're 100% correct that this solution only moves the water that got in, out but doesn't address the root cause, the water ingress from outside. I've been researching and planning my backyard drainage project for about a year now but have to now incorporate sealing the outside foundation as part of it as I want to eliminate the water ingress as much as possible. And yes, my basement does have a slight musty odor, not terribly strong like some older home basements I'm used to, but it's there. I believe this is also in part due to the build up of probably mold on the back of those plastic sheets.
IMHO this option is a good safety measure, AFTER you've addressed the outside water intrusion first, this gives you more peace of mind that you won't have a flood if it got really bad.
If you're not here to laugh you should really correct your spelling on thurally.
@@MrArdissono Yes you are right I don't know how that one got by me. But I do know what I'm talking about.
No, no, and no. Waterproofing must be done from the outside. Will it work, probably, but do you really want to let the water in your house? I don't think so. The bypass system was funny though, the water will dump right next to the house. Genius system.
Right, the water is getting cycled and recycled lol
I think the drainage pipe should have been below the footing to prevent water from flowing just under slab floor.
I have, after 30 years a crawl space leak issue. Outside repair would be best but man what a job. 18 thousand dollar side walk right in the way.🦇
The opening scene shows water pooling at the foundation and pouring off the roof or overflowing from the gutters. That is the problem. Leaving the problem in place and dealing with the symptom (at an enormous cost) is so foolish it defies logic. Imagine if your roof leaked and a contractor came up with an elaborate drainage system installed inside the attic to keep up with the leaky roof. It's absurd, right? Well, when confronting basement flooding you start by picking the low-hanging fruit and work your way up the tree. Install gutters and make sure the downspouts discharge far from the foundation. That might do the trick. Then, grade the property so that water flows away from the house. If that doesn't work, install a french drain system outside. This is much cheaper than jack-hammering concrete in the basement. If all that doesn't work, you'll have to do something like what they did in this video. But I think the easier, less costly measures would have the problem resolved before a jackhammer ever had to make an appearance.
wickedmessenger1 “Imagine if your roof leaked and a contractor came up with an elaborate drainage system installed inside the attic to keep up with the leaky roof. It’s absurd, right?”
That’s a great analogy.
He did nothing to address continuing damage to the foundation by allowing water to continue to run in.
@ Joe Shmoe….I called this Larry Janeskys company… Connecticut Basement Systems to come and give me an estimate, as I am having drainage issues…I quickly cancelled when I saw the system he uses, because of the same thought as you… not addressing the water problem from the exterior… I have a contractor doing the drainage system from the exterior wall to the footings, for what I’m guessing would be half the price as this system!!
@@jimmalley Good move! There are a lot of "experts" out there that don't know anything and others selling the most expensive job. Another problem is several different types of contractors specialize in the different installations that may need to be done. Sometimes a wrongly pitched sidewalk against a house can be a problem. The guy running pipes doesn't make any money from a sidewalk job. Getting roof water, patio water, etc away from the house is the first thing to do and keep in mind every house and property is different.
Feel free to contact me here if you have any questions, I'm not in the business, but I've seen plenty of unnecessary work done. People are easily impressed by the term "french drain". Good Luck!
@@joeshmoe7789 TY appreciate it!!…Stay Well
How about the exterior. That''s where I would start.
Whoa your a genius. I bet that’s why your a millionaire?
Then what if it happens again? After outside work?
@@bossboston816 place 100 lbs of C4 around the house and hit detonator.
@@overthehilldill3626 lol
@@bossboston816 I'm being facetious cuz I'm having leaking issues right now and I'm pissed!
These channel drain systems are junk. They do nothing with water until it rises to the level of the slab. At that point, it is too late. 4 inch corrugated pipe below the footer, not on top of the footer like this mess is the only way to effectively remove water that has come inside the perimeter of your walls. Drain holes in each block space, and a easy path to get to the drain pipe is needed also. Don't replace the 3.5 inches of concrete with 1.5 inches this junk does on the footer. Definitely don't cover up the mess this system will cause in water coming through the walls. Life time warranty on what??? That your walls won't collapse? False. And they will, if you don't relieve the pressure behind the wall. This system does not help anything but installer's wallet.
Then point us to a video showing the right way to do it. If none exists, then make one yourself.
@@jloc803dw for check out American Dry Basement System's channel. They are awesome. They do it right, and show the channel drain problem precisely.
@@jloc803dw Daniel Oconnor is another great resource.
@@jloc803dw what do you think of my examples?
this is not water profing its just redireting water
why not dig around the house and spray waterproof coating on the outside.
Cause concrete needs to breathe.
Drylok will ruin concrete and blocks.
Proper draining, proper slope and proper backfill are the key.
This system is nothing more than putting lipstick on a pig. The fact is he should have invested in an exterior waterproofing job with new weeping tiles. That's how you really solve a wet basement problem. It might be a little more expensive than this system but it's the only way to go.
By the way, I don't buy the guy's explanation for why water was coming in from his rear steps. He didn't have a grate at the bottom which is code and the rainwater was just coming down the stairs and inviting itself in. He's a home expert and he didn't know this???
This system sucks. You basement will still be humid. It’s a joke.
This method waterproof From the inside is a joke. It's no different than having a boat that has a hole in it and is leaking and you decide to get a bigger bilge pump and not fix the hole. The only way to waterproof abasement, is from the outside.
Sorry but this system is the worst kind, it’s level and has no pitch so water has to build up to flow to the sump. That water is laying under the concrete floor and has no way to be removed. Watch other videos about removing this type of system.
I heard these systems are crap . That don’t work as advertised . A gimmick . I seen numerous videos on how they dug this system up and did it differently . This video was nothing more than. Advertisement for this system .
This is all done incorrectly. All of it. For anyone out their looking at doing a basement, do more research.
The outside of the house is the problem. Ground is flat. It should slope away from the house. Fix this first.
I hope Ron got a big check from Basement Systems because he sold out big time.
It's a Basement Systems Commercial
@Liberty AboveAllElse Improving surface drainage doesn't cost nearly that much. That's always first because it's almost always the cause.
@Liberty AboveAllElse Sorry, that's not true. This house is a good example: the basement gets when when it pours. Otherwise, it's dry. That's what Ron said. Cheap solutions like extending downspouts are always the first option, though they often don't solve the problem. Bringing in dirt to improve drainage away from the house is second, when possible. Installing subsurface pipes/drains is third, and interior improvements are the last resort.
That system is garbage. It’s needs to be sloped 4in pvc with holes installed at the bottom of footing surrounded by a drain sock and gravel. It is ground water. He must have a high water table.
The whole reason the basement is leaking is because the builder has those walls as thin as possible required by code and used cheap concrete. When my friend was building his home a few years ago, they built the basement and foundation, basically laying a thick concrete slab for the basement floor. They then layed some type of rubber membrane. Then they lowered some metal plate on top of the membrane. I think it was steel. Then then layed another membrane then another layer of concrete. After that, they did the same with the walls. The walls are also a few feet above the ground at the top. They backfilled the sides with dirt and when they were done building the house, it sits a little higher than the other homes in the neighborhood. Guess what? NO LEAKS! Imagine that!
What the......I have heard of this. " technology" it basically hides the problem it may stop the flooding but not the water and it just pumps it out but still the moisture is present and over time mold will come
Hydroarmor guy beats this guy
Steve Yes!!! He's expensive but he gets er done right the 1st time!!!!🤗🤗🤗
All of that work and the outside of the house still has water going through the walls .
Lol. I was thinking the same thing.
Yep! Your redirecting the river, not stopping it! Get better drainage outside to keep the water away from the wall in the first place!
@@jjuggernaut3218 those are impossible to prevent from clogging eventually
never heard of french drain?
oui, oui
It appears that the end output of the entire system is far too close to your house, and I’m guessing that the amount of lawn erosion there is an issue.
In some locations like Minnesota (or adjacent to a lake) the water table is so high, that no gutters, or weeping tile will prevent a wet basement.
I had a problem w/ my home in NC, and got several estimates. I actually initially tried a weeping tile, but pulled it out. The last estimate was the best.....grading or reversing the slope. Only 1 time did water come in, and a valley in the gutters had clogged it so bad it was coming off in a continuous stream. Even w/ screens on the gutters one has to keep them clean and free of debris !!! Finally !!
I really don't think that many of these commentors grasp the concept of a high water table. They must all live in warmer, dryer climates. All the exterior waterproofing in the world isn't going to help if water is pushing up from underneath. I reside in the upper Midwest and my whole neighborhood was built on a high water table (unfortunately). Many of these homes are resting on a bed of poorly drained soils, with basements which will become a shallow pool at any given time of the year without drainage systems and sump pumps. Most pumps around here were activating even throughout the dead of winter this year.
@@UToobin75my water table is exceptionally high-never ever below my foundation footings.
I have a very dry basement because they ran exterior delta membrane against the walls, then drains around footing and it goes to a sump pump. At the worst time of the year my pump moves about 1000 gallons a day. Even in the driest part of summer it runs (though less). I also have a water alarm if the pump fails, and a gravity drain I can use alternatively (in which case pump need not run).
I have the BasementSystems water proofing system internal drainage and my basement has been amazing dry for 10 years now. I have my own videos that show the installation. Just having the drains isn't enough. I also use their non-permeable wall covers to seal out moisture from walls or that would leak down from windows. It then goes into the drains. Solved so many issues. Just last week, I installed my own egress window and what a mistake that was. I did not put a drain into the window well because I figured it would drain enough during storms, which it did. But then it downed poured an incredible amount something like 7 inches in an hour and filled the window well and it leaked into the basement. Now I'm having them install their egress window well drain system to eliminate that issue.
Yikes! As soon as I saw them putting plastic panels on the wall to hide the water coming through the wall I knew this was not a good system. You have to keep the water out of the wall on the outside, drain it out of the wall if it does get into the wall and then drain the water away from the footer and into the sump pit to be pumped out of the house by the sump pump. Anything else is window dressing hiding the problems.
Thanks for your insight and great comment. I just experienced basement flooding for the first time in Nashville after buying my house. What kind of company would I look for? Any suggestion as to how to go forward would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for taking the time to read this.
Exact opposite of what really happens.
they didnt even drill weep holes...im not too confident about this system
@@aquiljannah7017 considering that weep holes would make the problem even worseid say it's just as well
@@aquiljannah7017 Did so many things wrong!! can not drill weep holes into a concrete wall, drain tile should be along footing not on top, exterior walls are still going to leach and mold, thus cover the wall for appearance is the answer? Its a band aid fix at best.
Janesky is the founder of the whole industry. He must be a multimillionaire. I've used 10,000 of those plastic fasteners. If the walls is very old ? We have seen them lose their connectivity which isn't the end of the world. Just put it in some place else, but first we stated filling the hole that we jammed the connector into with hydraulic cement. Then we ent to Lexel. Now we use gorilla glue. Each one got better and better results. This is a 1950s house. Why use a $50,000 system on a $60,000 house. This thing is $5-$8,000 and does the job. Man, I'd like to franchise with Larry. I can't market. I can sell and deliver.
Why would a celebrity home improvement host allow his basement to be flooded several times before he decided to do anything about it? A professional would have planned ahead to ensure water never entered his basement the first time.
Wanna take odds on whether it was actually his house at all?
Please get rid of the background music. Overrides the speaker. Hear more music that Ron.
I FIND YOUR WINTER PLAN LACKING
Water is discharged through PVC piping outside and at least 4 feet away from the foundation to prevent it recycling back against the home's foundation. This is why you often see sump pump discharges installed to drain out onto splash blocks.
@10:29....so I don't have to do anything.. haha.. no just cut a big check!!
My house was full of water 💦 in December 9 of 2019 like if you have this problem to today.
OMG I just watched a video on how bad this system is th-cam.com/video/CSrdJjlQopA/w-d-xo.html
To be honest if you just wanted to channel the water away and not fix it doing the bottom stuff would be ok but those vinyl wall panels will keep the block wet and mold will follow. Also for "ice clogs" my sub dumps 70 feet from the house. If the pipe is frozen so is the ground and water is not going to the system.
yea this system is not recommended. so much you can do for a fraction of the cost from the outside of the house to evacuate water away from your property before going to this extreme.
My opinion of Ron Hazelton just plummeted. This is not waterproofing this is just learning how to live with it. Pitiful. You have to redirect water from the roof away from the foundation, dig up the foundation and install a proper waterproofing system on the outside of the basement wall not catch it after it gets inside. This is the equivalent of giving someone a bucket to catch water from a leaky roof instead of making the roof watertight. What a scam.
Thank you for such insight. You've helped me more than you can ever know. If you are in Nashville, could you recommend company? I just had bedrooms in my basement flood. I've never had this happen before (I'm from Houston and we don't have basements in Houston!). Thanks again.
If you watched the video the drain is on the footer but below the floor. How is that letting water in the basement? If waterproofing from the outside is so great, why do all these existing homes need to be waterproofed? It’s the job of the gutters to direct it away from the foundation. But last time I checked, rain often comes in on a angle.
Of course your right but if the basement is 10 feet deep and outside is a huge concrete patio then it's going to cost a lot to hire somebody to do it right. of course a home improment celebrity would do it right.
There is also the question of COST. I had to do this to my basement, as I literally had a 'river runs through it' situation. My quotation for an exterior water proofing, was $40K+ (ouch!) while an interior water proofing was $20K (HD vapor barrier on walls, interior weeping tile, new sump with battery backup, and whole house de-humidifier)
@@paulmoffat9306 You paid $20K for interior water pumping, not water proofing. Just as much water still flows into your basement, you are just pumping it out more efficiently. So if your only concern was water on the floor, you saved money. If you were concerned with humidity, mold or decay you did nothing to stop those.
Ron is sellout for this one.
The only way to properly drain a basement is weeping tile installed between the top and bottom of the footing with lots of clean rock so it drains all water sitting under slab... you've compromised your entire entire slab as there are no engineered tabs left connecting the slab to the footer which prevents the floor from settling and the walls from pushing in the bottom of the walls... this solution will result in water sitting in the plastic gutter which evaporates up behind the plastic sheets into the basement area so its always damp and musty... will keep water off the floor but does not solve the real underlying drainage problem
Obviously this is wrong, or else every house in my area is compromised. I have toured many new builds and only one builder locally even has the slab touching the side of the wall; the vast majority of older-and new-homes here have a floating slab, with an inch or so air space between the wall and the slab, which is intended to catch any wall runoff and direct under the floor, ultimately making its way to the sump crock.
The system has no slope! Because the plastic drain is so up high, you will always have water sitting at the bottom of the trench where the gravel is. Not sure this is a good system...
@Paul Starr You want to remove the water before it reaches the height of this floor level drain, regardless of if the basement never "floods". Which is why systems that are installed correctly are installed with 4" ABS weeping tile pipes with a filter sock and rocks around them. Relief holes are drilled in the cinder block foundation to allow water to drain out of the cylinder blocks (which are hollow) into the drainage system, to be plumbed to the sump pump for removal. If you dont have relief holes in the cylinder block foundation, it does nothing to prevent the lateral water pressure being exerted on the foundation from the outside of the foundation wall.
It's not lol
I’ve never seen them with three pumps, only one or two.
I hate how people install these systems. The drain should be at the bottom of the footer.
Sure, why not allow all the water to enter your home. That's Larry's cash cow. You MUST stop water from entering from the outside. I would never recommend this solution to my worst enemy!!
That discharge at the end should be open horizontal, not up. That's why it could freeze. If the up discharge is used, there should be weep holes for it to completely drain. This end in his discharge system necessitates the added expense of his fail/safe fittings.
Drainage system should have been installed from outside during construction. Where was a home inspector? Now digging from outside around a house is the best, but would have astronomical price. Owners usually take a cheaper half-measures.
I have a old system,on the same principal,done 52 years ago,I have only replaced 3 pumps in 52 years,it works.
Ive used black death on the outside concrete below ground level before. Now this system allows water into the house then released outside. If you black death an exterior. Have the ground sloped for water run off and erosion. Then you wouldn't get any water in the house right? Just think putting plastic on pre-existing walls on an interior is a band aid, cost more money, and doesn't really do anything to solve the problem. Water is getting in your house.
What is black death?
It's a tar like substance that never dries. In alaska we use it to seal the top and bottom plate before you put the vapor barrier up to trap air for insulation. I've also see it put on exterior of basement concrete before you back fill it.
ahh, no protection, smells so good... so old school...
The very first thing to do when correcting a wet basement is to inspect or install roof gutters and proper downspouts. Second is to check earth grading around the home to be sure rain water is running away and not accumulating next to the wall. Neither of these are mentioned at all.The system shown seems ok, however to install an attractive interior wall 'skin' would require a skilled carpenter. I see the 'skin' fitting process looking like a hack job with all the cuts a basement panel job would require
peter d don’t finish your basement and run a humidifier
Sgreaming daily .slots bc live
Streaming daily slots bc
I preach this all the time try to stop the water on the out side first .Then you install a sump[ pump but only as the last resort . By the way your trench should be at the same grade as the footer looks like you did not go deep enough .
Ron is not your friend. He's a salesman. He sells Ron and, in this case Basement Systems - note the 800 number he included. Search for Basement Systems and maybe find a guy who isn't cutting a deal to advertise their work. A guy who can tell us how it worked for him.
PS: Gutters, downspouts (I added one to the middle of the house front and back when we re-roofed the place), leaf screens and good drainage are first steps as the OP said.
Been like that since the 60s. What a shitshow. But then have you seen his show. What is that like an inch of material over plastic horrorshow from beginning to end. Seen lots of homes from this era. Bowed walls and flooding galore. Unfortunately its common practice. Had one where they installed a sump and didn't break knockouts. total waste.
Doesnt removing the concrete floor compromise the foundation?
jude999 No. Floor is independent from foundation.
I totally disagree with this process!
There's going to be mold behind the plastic! Nothing is done about the water leaking through the wall!
(No doubt, the drains work, but what if there's a power failure?)
Why not address the issue from the outside? Like a well installed french drain system?
This video should be reported as false advertising. 1st, most basements/foundations before 90's weren't designed in the way to be finished. No plastic under the footer to keep water out. No waterproofing walls. Not even French drains. You must go below the footer and drill holes in the blocks to keep walls and basement dry. Otherwise, sell the house, and build a new one the right way from bottom to top
Very cool idea with the plastic liner behind the perforated drain pipe to allow water in. I feel the wall liner will always hold moisture, depending on how much water is actually coming in. Also mold will eventually develop behind the liner and become a centipede water bug haven but the "customer" as you say will never see this cause its covered. Great idea though it would be nicer if the panels could come down yearly to make sure its remaining dry.
I don't like that idea either and I don't even know if a backer-board would work.
All the projects I watched this man do over the years and he saved one of the most important for almost last,next week he's fixing his roof that's been leaking since he bought the place.
The better damp proofing solutions for basement floor . Thank you so much. Wish you all the best.
Box drain is CRAP because it's not below the footer and I would bet he's already had to take it out....ADS pipe below the footer is always the best way to go.. the plastic shit on the walls cause the basement to stink after time....
I estimate about 10K, but this is a possible diy for much less if you are flipping it.
It is not a good solution though, and does not solve any water vapor from the floor either most likely making that problem worse. And logically it could possibly weaken the integrity of the foundation by breaking the bond between the floor and the wall, which has been together for decades in most cases. Some companies leave tabs and feed the piping under them, but i think that is just a con as there is no way the integrity can be the same with a jack hammer blasting away for 3 hours. The floor is history, the house has begun a downward spiral.
Nj waterproofing calls this a cheap job......not done properly
Garbage system, so when it’s winter and it overflows right back to the foundation your problems return? Please do more research, there are far better options. This is just old school at it’s finest.
Wouldn't those panels make mold more likely?
This pump requires a designated electrical outlet, I am not sure what you do when that basement is actually a bedroom, and with the garbage we buy from China how long will that pump last?
This not a solution to the problem. The water needs to be prevented for coming in in the first place. You're attacking the symptoms not the cause. You could have saved a lot of money by just closing your eyes. Either way the problem is not solved.
Why on earth would you let your house flood for years and not do something sensible to stop it until now??🙄
This system is not good you constantly have wet walls behind the plastic barrier where mold can grow and this would cost a TON of money.
This system is garbage!! Had it in my home previous owners had it installed it failed after only 3 years, we had it torn out and had the weeping holes drilled and pvc deeper in trench installed, problem solved!
He's gonna sleep like a baby ,, hope he's part mermaid
I don't like the idea to manage the water inside the basement.
It should be done on the outside wall with a french drain and a real waterproof wall.
Otherwise you will be stuck with moisture behinde the plastic sheets.
They should drill to the outside so water does not have to go through the concrete it come through the hole into the drain and helps keep you foundation in good shape
That is not going to work your not below the footer where the water is and there are no weep holes in the block cavitys including the joints you wont be to code with the concrete thickness minimum of 3 1/2” this is a cheap shoddy system
Hmm. Why not drain and waterproof the basement on the outside and prevent the seepage into the basement..
What do you do when you have two constant streams of water through your basement, one from either side, flowing through your basement more or less all year? A hell of a lot more than they did here.
Build an indoor pool.
Break out the surfboard and hit the tube dude.
Other than ex tv show hosts, like Ron and yuppies, who care not how much anything costs, who could afford this? Not your average working class person for sure!
You WILL pay for it sooner or later. Whether it be now, when house is sold or foundation becomes unstable
This looks astronomically expensive 😢
Obama agency rules Pepsi's use of aborted fetal cells in soft drinks constitutes "ordinary business operations..." -- Saturday, March 17, 2012 by Ethan A. Huff
How much ? . There is no solid explanation what causing the flood . All I hear is rambling back and forth.
Mine was $20K for inside, versus $40K+ outside.
@@paulmoffat9306 we quoted an exterior job about 15 linear feet for 3500 and had 2 guys do it in 2 days. Some Never-dry hacks came in and quoted $18000 for some bullshit inside dog and pony show that they said would take 5 days
So you have 2 heavy duty pumps for moving 7000 gallons of water per hour, but if the power fails as it sometimes does in a heavy storm, you flood the basement because that little DC pump can not match the load for removing the water in a heavy storm.... or even in a 8 hour long storm.... better idea is to re grade the land outside away from the home and also make the second pump a water pressure pump, these pumps use the homes cold water line to run the pump... when have you ever had no cold water in a storm?
Lots of derogatory comments from folks who I bet are neither builders nor engineers. Don't take them seriously. I've seen plenty of "waterproofing" systems fail ... and if you've ever seen a retaining wall leaning out, you know just how pervasive and powerful underground water pressure can be. A properly installed system with a sump pump is never a bad idea for a basement.
A box system with an inch of concrete on it. Amazing. These people are con artists.
That channel is way too high. It is on top of the footer. The drainage pipe needs to be put at the base of the footer where the water is. The water will fill up above the bottom of the floor before it can get to the channel. That makes a damp floor. Look up other TH-cam channels to see these systems torn out and the water that is sitting below them.
our backyard is clay. we have a mini shallow swimming pool effect after a good rain. and it always leaks in ONE tiny spot, bottom of the foundation wall, at the floor. We use a wet dry vac to vacuum..but the idea of the plastic piping to direct the water towards the washing machine area where there is a drain sounds intriguing.
Fix from the outside
I have the same effect. Sand top layer on pure clay, so my house is in a perpetual pool of water.
I really enjoyed Ron in the early 90's when he was on channel 7 Sunday mornings as the house doctor in our Bay Area community.
Not sure that this is the right way to approach this - see a video explaining why. th-cam.com/video/xaoSrAV54bk/w-d-xo.html
Don't build a basement. Problem solved.
This is a water management, the proper way is to waterproof and seal the outer walls, he wont need the sump pump after that .
So let me get this strait you buy a house that was wterproofed before it was backfilled during the building process. It gets water pressure against it and causes cracks from the preasure and leaks throughout the foundation. So now we dig up the whole foundation again later inlife. Pay for it. Or have someone do it. Rewaterproof it. Add a membrane and Backfill and now we are good to go? So that means now no water will make it under my footer and cause pressure on my slab? For a fact?. Yes outsude water proffing, gutter routing, grading, frenchdrains will help but very costly for all that and still very possible to still habe problems. Then what pay for more work from the inside to route it away anyways? Most dont have the money for outside repair and cant chance it not keeping there basement dry. Let alone pay again for more work inside. Is this system cheap YES. Will it work for way cheaper yes As long as you route discharge far enough away.
The wall panels are a mold producing danger. I would NEVER put them in my home.
RioSul50 Facts!
that trench is not deep enough or wide enough and no system should ever be put above the footer all water is below the footer and that plastic wall liner just hides the problem there will be tons of mold behind it but none of the lner because mold dosnt grow on plastic. if you want a real system call AC Waterproofing in coulmbus ohio they know what they are doing. look them up on facebook. I bet in a couple years this guy will need it redone
Water is going to leak in at the perimeter and generally at the footing/wall joint and then rise up at the edges of the floor. Putting the WaterGuard on the footing puts the drain at the exact right spot to drain away this water. Plus, being on the footing (where applicable) keeps the drain out of the mud. As for mold, it shouldn't grow on our wall panels or the concrete as both are inorganic.
you are correct, this drain system is trash. needs to be set at bottom of footing. another cheap franchise system. I've jacked 10 of these systems out of the ground already this year.
#HydroArmor
This is what a shit system looks like. Notice the corner pieces do not have a bottom to them. Good luck if you're going to install this in a basement that has iron bacteria issues aka red goop
Waterguard is the biggest scam drainage on the market. #notchthatfooting lol
Extierior weeping tile and a waterproof yet breathable membrane on the outside is what you need.
Don't want to be pedantic but there is no such thing as a waterproof yet breathable membrane.
@@evanpenny348 He needs to remove two words from his sentence in order to be correct -1. yet, 2. breathable.
hi question. in crawlspaces i see everyone putting down vapor barriers in the form of poly tarping. i dont trust tape and caulking to seal water for a long period of time. is there a reason no one simply pours concrete instead like a typical basement?
icawn
Hello icawn.
If the objective is to seal water out, pouring concrete in the crawl space won't help accomplish it. Concrete is a porous material, and ground water will still be able to seep through it and evaporate into the area.
the watter test at the bottom of the stairs was an eppic fail lol the watter went straight acrossthe grait at 11m24s
You mean @11:24 ? That way you can click on the numbers and it takes you straight there
Think you meant 9:24
I noticed that as well - smh
How much it cost overall for this system?
Depends on the length. 85 percent of a 1500 sq. foot basement was $20,000 Canadian or about $15,200 USA dollars. Remember, some people don't have the luxury of digging outside of the basement to repair the issue due to space limitations, Florida rooms etc.
4k
Trenches aren’t deep enough and plastic panels 😂
I'm no fan of Basement Systems Inc., but I see an ocean of comments saying that attacking water problems from the outside is the only way to go. That would be the case if your water infiltration problems are intermittent, due to rains and poor grade etc., but all the outside waterproofing in the world isn't going to solve the problem of a consistently high water table which pushes water up from underneath your slab, unfortunately.
And do these commenters not realize that many homes are BUILT with exterior/interior drain tiles attached to a sump pump? I don't like it either, but there are millions upon millions of homes where drain tile is a necessity. Blame it on builders building in wet areas where they shouldn't, blame it on increasingly unpredictable weather patterns, but it is the predicament many homeowners find themselves in.
thank you! someone who finally stated the issue I'm facing now.. exactly that. Hydrostaic pressure, pushing water up through foundation, because of a grade/water table. This has GOT to be better than doing nothing..
@@richgouette Grade is highly fixable, a high water table, whether seasonal or permanent, is not.
A word of caution: If you have a consistently high water table and install or replace ineffective drain tile, you could end up in the unfortunate situation of having those drain tiles just sitting in water and having a perpetual flow of water into your pit, causing your sump to activate as often as once every few minutes or less. It's the situation I've found myself in after having work done last year, and it is a living hell I can attest. So be careful what you wish for.
If I had to do it all over again I'd NEVER have my original slab disturbed. No matter what contractors promise or what sort of admixture or sealant they might use, the new concrete will never form as strong of a bond as your original slab because it won't be a uniform piece. I've had new cracks and spots of moisture in the new concrete lay in spots where I never had problems before.
Then if you have buyers remorse it may be too late, the damage is already done. They may tell you that once new drainage patterns are opened up that it's almost impossible to close them. Try asking a waterproofing company to remove and reverse their work and they'll look at you cock-eyed and act like you're asking them to part the Red Sea. All they're focused on is keeping water off of your basement floor -- they don't consider the ramifications of their work. Waterproofing companies are not engineers, they're a cadre of pushy uninformed salesman and ditch diggers.
Don't let more water in only to bear the brunt of pumping it out. I'd try anything before making such a big decision. Hydraulic cement, epoxy, grout injections...anything before trenching. They may be temporary and require maintenance, but it might just beat the expensive, intrusive & destructive alternative. If I never had to listen to or worry about a sump pump again, it wouldn't be a day too soon.
It's an unfortunate reality that millions of homes are built with full or even semi basements in areas where they shouldn't have been. If a natural water table is above the level of a basement floor, which will flood without reliance on a fallible mechanical device at any given time of the year, that is a major liability. And unpredictable weather patterns have made this fact even more pronounced. I've never had so many problems as within the last historically wet decade.
I don't have the answers, I just know that those of us situated within high water tables are stuck between a rock and a hard place. And if I knew then what I know now, I would've made some different choices.
@@UToobin75 great, just when I thought I had a solid, workable solution in mind....
hmm Well, either way, I greatly appreciate yer thoughts .
I had a company come out yesterday to look over my water situation, and he specd out a $4400 solution, using those water systems plastic buried channel thingies.. I researched costs, and determined I could do it for a fraction of that.. but now you've got me worried..
@@richgouette Rich, I'm no expert, I'm simply sharing my experience and doing what I can to tell you what waterproofing companies do not. It really depends upon your specific situation and what you're able to live with. If you get only intermittent water infiltration and throughout a wide area (not just in a focused area), then water management systems certainly have their place.
I was having problems in one corner and mistakenly thought that if I gave that water somewhere to go, it would drain out and inflow would slow to a trickle. Little did I know that I was opening up the flood gates towards a perpetual supply of water, and now I'm bearing the burden of channeling an underground river and having to pump it out, with no way of limiting the flow without having the whole thing dug up and filled back in -- which is exactly what I'm trying to find someone to do -- a risky proposition in and of itself.
Just know that it is a major commitment. I know the temptation is to jump at the first offer when you're having issues with water in your basement. I understand that all too well as I had the finished side of my basement flooded, had to remove a large area of carpeting and even put down a dozen sandbags to try to stem the tide of where the water was seeping in after rainfall/snow melt.
1) Get as many estimates as you can.
You will discover rather quickly that basement waterproofing is not an exact science. It is an unregulated industry. Every company is going to offer slightly different approaches and different estimates. They rely on you the customer to detail the problem and determine what the best course of action is. You hire them to be the experts but they know about as little as the customer does as to what the results will yield, as neither you or they have X-RAY vision.
2) Demand open lines of communication with the foreman. They may take the initiative to do things you don't want done. Like chipping back your footer to make room for the system, perforating your sump basin, not using enough concrete to bring things level to where your slab was before etc. etc. etc.
I will tell you that my local Basement Systems franchise went ahead and installed a system DIFFERENT than the one listed in my contract without my consent. As someone unfamiliar with the process, the damage was all but done before I realized it. Had I been informed I very well may have reassessed my options.
I didn't know I'd have to watch the crew like a hawk. Hard working? Absolutely. Committed to keeping the customer informed every step of the way? Don't count on it. And getting them to address fundamental mistakes after the fact? Good luck. After repeated requests to the owner of my local franchise to make things right, he passed the buck to his attorney to silence me. Now I may have to contact corporate and file a complaint with the BBB. It's been a nightmare from day one with these guys.
Not only that but my contract listed a necessary permit, yet upon calling my local building inspector, the city has NO RECORD of issuing a permit for the year the work was done.
3) Read the fine print. Those contracts are tricky to protect them from liability, leaving the customer with little recourse in the case that something doesn't go as planned. Lifetime transferrable warranties are often not worth the paper they're printed on. To keep them active you often need to pay an annual maintenance fee (whether it needs servicing or not). You can reinstate an expired warranty only at a premium cost.
My advice would be to find someone knowledgeable who ISN'T trying to sell you anything to offer advice. Waterproofing companies are just trying to make a sale, often pushing $10k+ full perimeter systems (whether you actually need them or not) because they provide them with the biggest profit margins.
Point being, BE DILIGENT!
I had them install my sump pump, drain pipes, triple backup system and inner perimeter drains on 2 of 4 walls. But they didn't wrap the bucket with a filter to keep the sand out. And 6 years later it all filled with sand - pit, pumps, and pipes. Basement flooded. Alarm system failed too, and I learned later it was because they plugged all 3 pumps onto each other, piggy back into one outlet. And I, a single parent, female, was never told, and I never noticed. So when it failed, they all blew. Fuse blew too, while I'm standing in the water. I was still terrified, with 3 pumps still plugged into the outlet, in the pit. I had a wall that was slightly bowed and it became a serious one with a bigger crack. And I called and called. Eventually another company came in and tore out their pit work and we stared at their bucket without the wrap. New pit, new single pump, 14 wall anchors and $25,000 bill..I'll never recommend these guys.
when a basement waterproofer knocks on your door and asks wheres your basement,,,its time to fire him,,you treat your water issues from the outside not the inside,,,functional gutters with very long drains that are kept clean and proper grading of soil,,thats it,,anything else your wasting your money,,keep the water away from your home and there cant be a water problem,,,this is a bandaid and will fail as they all have,,pressure is still on your walls,,mold will still grow etc
True, but the water table is different for everybody. If water vapor is coming through the floor, the gutters will help slow that permeation only. The floor needs to be scarified and deep sealed, then maybe a epoxy or hydrolock paint for good measure and is more than enough to stop that floor vapor hydro pressure.
Sorry buddy that was mortar not concrete...
This just pretty much guarantees you'll have 100% pure dry basement. I live in Wisconsin and I was quoted $16,000 to do our basement just like they did his didn't do it yet love kayaking in in the basement lol lol no kidding
Can’t you buy a brand new crib for 16k in Wisconsin? Ha just kidding bud.
This is not waterproofing that is garbage
This system is trash unfortunately
MMMMOOOOOLLLLLDS \