That must be the best explanation of grads I've seen. No rush with overload of information. That makes it easier for me to absorb the details. Thank you.
Possibly, this is the clearest instructional video on the use of filters!! Thanks. Having recently purchased my Lee starter kit, I want to learn more basic skills. Your video is just what I wanted!! Cheers.
Many ND filters are named ND2 for 1 stop light reduction, ND4 for 2 stop light reduction, ND8 for 3 stop, ND16 for 4 stop. ND32 for 5 stop, ND64 for 6 stop reduction etc. The numbers 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64 etc after the ND have a purpose. Simply you check the correct exposure time without the ND filter on the camera. After putting the filter you multiply the exposure time with the number of ND filter for the new exposure time. For example if the correct exposure time without any filter is 3 seconds. When you put an ND32 filter the new exposure is the multiplication 3sec X 32= 96 seconds. If you put a ND8 filter the new exposure time is 3sec X 8=24 seconds. It is very simple. However the usually named ND500 filter is actually ND512 and offers 9 stops light reduction and the usually named ND1000 filter is actually ND1024 and offers 10 stops light reduction. With these two filters multiply with 512 instead of 500 and 1024 instead of 1000. Νο special apps are needed just a simply calculator. Keep in mind that the ND100 doesn't offer 7 stop light reduction but 6 2/3 stop light reduction The same way the ND200 doesn't offer 8 stop light reductions but 7 2/3 stop light reduction and the ND400 offer 8 2/3 stops light reduction. The less common ND100000 mostly for solar observations offers a reduction of 16 3/5 stops. For the new exposure time simply multiply with 100.000.
Best video i have seen on neurtal density filers and how to use them, good job. Very well explained with examples, many others dont do that, thanks again.
Clear and concise. Very useful video. Thanks. But my question might be odd since it isn’t related to filters at all: your bag seems great to me. Would you mind letting me know the brand and model of this bag?
Excellent explanation of the two primary types of ND filters and their use. All your techniques are very much like my process years ago when I was shooting film, without the very helpful histogram and variable ISO we have now with digital. However, now shooting digital I no longer use square or rectangular filters for several reasons. First, the kit of filters, adapters and holders is bulky to haul around. Plus they are nearly impossible to shade and protect well with a lens hood. In addition, many are not multi-coated and are made with easily scratched, difficult to clean optical resin. There are glass, multi-coated square & rectangular filters, but good ones are prohibitively expensive and are still rather fragile. I now instead use only screw in ND and polarizing filters... And I don't use Graduated ND at all. I get as good or better results doing multiple shots or multi-processing a single shot in post-processing, with the blending technique you mentioned. One of the advantages of the square and rectangular filters is that a single set can serve across a wide selection of lenses with different filter thread diameters. However, when I really got down to it I actually only needed two sizes to accommodate the lenses I use for landscapes and since I've eliminated Grad NDs entirely, actually have fewer total filter to carry around. I was a bit surprised you didn't mention polarizing filters. Particularly around water, a C-Pol can be very useful. It also has the effect of darkening the sky when it's not fully overcast. Another filter I carry for occasional use is a UV. Particularly at the shore and near the surf, if I'm not using another type of filter I'll use one to protect the front element of the lens from "salt air", which can be nasty to clean off. I'd rather wash a filter than my lens! There are some other rare situations where the filter's protection comes in handy, too... But I don't leave a "protection" filter on full time. I also deliberately chose UV filters instead of plain, clear protection filters because the UV filtration can also come in handy at times reducing bluish haze in the distance in a scene. (UV filters were much more important with film, especially at higher altitudes, because film tended to be overly sensitive to UV light and cause tints in images. This isn't a problem with digital, though.) I noticed you avoided a third type of ND filters.... Variable ND. While they sound great, one filter that can provide a range of densities, they tend to cause uneven effect and ugly color tints. For video they might make sense because there is more limited adjustment for exposure than with still photography. But for stills a set of two or three ND like your 3-stop, 6-stop and 10-stop are all that's needed (might even be possible to stack the 3 and 6 for 9 stops and not need the 10-stip filter... So long as image quality isn't compromised and vignetting doesn't occur.) One inconvenience of screw-in filters is taking them on and off. That may be necessary to focus and compose particularly with stronger ND. I haven't tried them, but an interesting, relatively new alternative might be filters that mount magnetically. In the end, your filter techniques work well and you did a great job explaining them. I just wanted to point out some other options and why I personally made some changes. I agree that my methods relying on post-processing lead to more screen time. But to me it's worth it, only really needed on my "keeper" images, and with practice and software that allows selective editing with layers & masks, actually is pretty quick. Cheers and thanks for posting the helpful video.
Great concise information, extremly well presented and to the point. I have subscribed. I just got my Formatt HiTech Ken Kaminesky Master Landscape Kit and you video is really helpful! Thanks!
Hi, Ross in another life I was a very keen angler now I am a very keen photographer I recognise a lot of the locations in your videos as I live in Cornwall as I have done all my life maybe our paths will cross one day Great videos mate keep it up.
Thank you, about to go out and try using a filter for the first time tonight. I've photographed Trebarwith a few times a would love to go back their with a filter to try and get the kind of shot you did.
A very deliberate and precise presentation. Enjoyed the explanation of filters and their applications. The showing of the end product ( the shots) were very helpful . Thank You. San Diego
For somebody who wants to do it easier and not using a app to calculate your exposure.... use a remote control..... press and lock.... take several shots.... and want an even longer exposure.... squeeze your aperture...... thanks for the vid!👍
I more like the photo with solid ND filter than combined with gradual ND, but that's just my preferences. Great guide and really detailed instructions.
excellent tutorial. I'm a newcomer to photography (9mnths) I bought some grad filters recently and i just put them on or double up, etc. have had some nice images but now can take control and choose the right grad st time. 'll try it this weekend and let you know how it went. Thank for the vid subscribed. J
Dud you mention that it’s best to take test pic ...set the focus then go into manual focus ..using a ten stop filter will sometimes block out too much light
What a great explanation of filter use, clear and straight to the point instructions. Where is this location? I've been racking my brain, It looks familiar. Cheers
Hi Ross, Could you please expand on the last part of the tutorial. You mentioned using the Histogram to determine if you actually need a Grad. I always thought it was too control the highlights eg bright sky and keeping the shadow detail say within the foreground. But you made particular reference to Mid-tone part of the Histogram? Thanks James
Hi James. Ross is saying that you don't always need to use a grad - sometimes the dynamic range of the shot isn't that great. The histogram showing a horseshoe shape is good for determining whether or not a grad is needed to level out the exposure.
Thanks for a good instructional video. It was clarifying. Now I have a question. In your gear list there is a 17-35/2.8. I also have that lens but I have heard that the 16-35/4 is sharper so I have thought about replacing my 17-35 with the 16-35. What is s your opinion on that? Compared to my prime 35 there is a big difference but maybe not so big difference between the two zoom lenses? Since you’re using the 17-35 I guess you like it but in case you have experience from both of the lenses it would be nice to hear your opinion before I replace it. Best regards.
Great video but did combine the 10stop and 2stop graduated shots on your photo editor or you mounted both on the stops and take the shot. If you mounted both stoppers how did you compensate for the shutter speed?
Nice video but you should always close the lid on the viewfinder to keep away stray light from hitting the sensor as well as mirror up and 3 second delay for optimal performance...
I did enjoy and I did find your tutorial helpful, subscribed and liked thank you for taking the time to explain at a good even pace with plenty of examples.
This was a fantastic tutorial on filters. I had never heard about using the histogram pattern for helping decide to use a Grad. What a great tip! Excellent video and clear explanation of everything. I am now subscribed to your channel. Thanks.
Great vid - but perhaps correct the boo boo at 2:30. A 3-stop filter induces 8 times the duration of the unfiltered shot. (I suggest a zap/pow speech bubble to over-dub this slip up).
Excellent explaantions, but to be honest except for some very special cases (extremely quickly changing scenery maybe?) graduated filters are kinda obsolete. Taking multiple exposures and masking is far superior, no silly black peaks&other objects sometimes still seen in photos.
New to landscape....what is the remote/shutter device you’re using to take the shot? I have a canon 5d3 wondering if I can use the same device? Thanks to anyone who can point me in a good direction!
Great video thank you.Can i ask...if i use o polarizer with any nd solid or grad i have to calculate also the light that i am loosing from pl? Greetings from Greece
You put those filters on first, and then look at the exposure through the camera's metering. You can then put that into the app when you add solid NDs on and calculate from there.
Could please explain the focus technique we have to use when using the Lee big stopper? I have failed in my first attempt to have a sharp image when using automatically focus and i didnt have a lot of time to practice. My thought is to focus automatically and then place the filters and turn the focus into Manual
Has anyone tried using a gradual nd filter as a full solid nd? Just slide up the filter until the whole frame is covered by the darkened section of the filter? Thanks!
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
That must be the best explanation of grads I've seen. No rush with overload of information. That makes it easier for me to absorb the details. Thank you.
Possibly, this is the clearest instructional video on the use of filters!! Thanks. Having recently purchased my Lee starter kit, I want to learn more basic skills. Your video is just what I wanted!! Cheers.
Thanks so much Gavin! We've linked to all the gear we used in the description should you be curious about getting kitted out!
agreed
Many ND filters are named ND2 for 1 stop light reduction, ND4 for 2 stop light reduction, ND8 for 3 stop, ND16 for 4 stop. ND32 for 5 stop, ND64 for 6 stop reduction etc.
The numbers 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64 etc after the ND have a purpose.
Simply you check the correct exposure time without the ND filter on the camera. After putting the filter you multiply the exposure time with the number of ND filter for the new exposure time.
For example if the correct exposure time without any filter is 3 seconds. When you put an ND32 filter the new exposure is the multiplication 3sec X 32= 96 seconds. If you put a ND8 filter the new exposure time is 3sec X 8=24 seconds.
It is very simple.
However the usually named ND500 filter is actually ND512 and offers 9 stops light reduction and the usually named ND1000 filter is actually ND1024 and offers 10 stops light reduction. With these two filters multiply with 512 instead of 500 and 1024 instead of 1000.
Νο special apps are needed just a simply calculator.
Keep in mind that the ND100 doesn't offer 7 stop light reduction but 6 2/3 stop light reduction
The same way the ND200 doesn't offer 8 stop light reductions but 7 2/3 stop light reduction and the ND400 offer 8 2/3 stops light reduction.
The less common ND100000 mostly for solar observations offers a reduction of 16 3/5 stops. For the new exposure time simply multiply with 100.000.
Good tutorial - you not only said what you were doing but why you chose those options. Thank you.
Very clear explanation, easy to listen to, and the examples after filtering are simple and clear. Thank you very much.
Thanks Philip!
The best explanation of filters in the web, every question answered in a comprehensive but concise manner. superb Thank you
Great learning in a simplistic way . Please keep uploading your future videos greetings from Australia
Brilliantly clear and simple to understand explanation of filters - thank you.
Thanks for making such a simple video. Any landscape photographer should use it as benchmark. Couldn’t be more easier than it
Best video i have seen on neurtal density filers and how to use them, good job. Very well explained with examples, many others dont do that, thanks again.
Clear and concise. Very useful video. Thanks. But my question might be odd since it isn’t related to filters at all: your bag seems great to me. Would you mind letting me know the brand and model of this bag?
As a TV Director, I found this explanation as one of the clearest,coolest, interesting and professional one.
Avi Ambar
Excellent explanation of the two primary types of ND filters and their use. All your techniques are very much like my process years ago when I was shooting film, without the very helpful histogram and variable ISO we have now with digital.
However, now shooting digital I no longer use square or rectangular filters for several reasons.
First, the kit of filters, adapters and holders is bulky to haul around. Plus they are nearly impossible to shade and protect well with a lens hood. In addition, many are not multi-coated and are made with easily scratched, difficult to clean optical resin. There are glass, multi-coated square & rectangular filters, but good ones are prohibitively expensive and are still rather fragile.
I now instead use only screw in ND and polarizing filters... And I don't use Graduated ND at all. I get as good or better results doing multiple shots or multi-processing a single shot in post-processing, with the blending technique you mentioned.
One of the advantages of the square and rectangular filters is that a single set can serve across a wide selection of lenses with different filter thread diameters. However, when I really got down to it I actually only needed two sizes to accommodate the lenses I use for landscapes and since I've eliminated Grad NDs entirely, actually have fewer total filter to carry around.
I was a bit surprised you didn't mention polarizing filters. Particularly around water, a C-Pol can be very useful. It also has the effect of darkening the sky when it's not fully overcast.
Another filter I carry for occasional use is a UV. Particularly at the shore and near the surf, if I'm not using another type of filter I'll use one to protect the front element of the lens from "salt air", which can be nasty to clean off. I'd rather wash a filter than my lens! There are some other rare situations where the filter's protection comes in handy, too... But I don't leave a "protection" filter on full time. I also deliberately chose UV filters instead of plain, clear protection filters because the UV filtration can also come in handy at times reducing bluish haze in the distance in a scene. (UV filters were much more important with film, especially at higher altitudes, because film tended to be overly sensitive to UV light and cause tints in images. This isn't a problem with digital, though.)
I noticed you avoided a third type of ND filters.... Variable ND. While they sound great, one filter that can provide a range of densities, they tend to cause uneven effect and ugly color tints. For video they might make sense because there is more limited adjustment for exposure than with still photography. But for stills a set of two or three ND like your 3-stop, 6-stop and 10-stop are all that's needed (might even be possible to stack the 3 and 6 for 9 stops and not need the 10-stip filter... So long as image quality isn't compromised and vignetting doesn't occur.)
One inconvenience of screw-in filters is taking them on and off. That may be necessary to focus and compose particularly with stronger ND. I haven't tried them, but an interesting, relatively new alternative might be filters that mount magnetically.
In the end, your filter techniques work well and you did a great job explaining them. I just wanted to point out some other options and why I personally made some changes. I agree that my methods relying on post-processing lead to more screen time. But to me it's worth it, only really needed on my "keeper" images, and with practice and software that allows selective editing with layers & masks, actually is pretty quick.
Cheers and thanks for posting the helpful video.
Great concise information, extremly well presented and to the point. I have subscribed. I just got my Formatt HiTech Ken Kaminesky Master Landscape Kit and you video is really helpful! Thanks!
the most instructional videos i've found on filters.. thank you so much!
Hi, Ross in another life I was a very keen angler now I am a very keen photographer I recognise a lot of the locations in your videos as I live in Cornwall as I have done all my life maybe our paths will cross one day Great videos mate keep it up.
Absolutely fantastic explanation. Well done.
Excellent educator on the craft .. Great work
This is by far the best explanation of ND filters. Thanks!
Nice presentation! I use the same Lee system. My only gripe with their filters is that their optical resin offerings become scratched easily.
Fantastic video. Great and detailed explanation.
Great video Ross, clear, to the point and in some stunning locations. I look forward to the next one.
Thank you, about to go out and try using a filter for the first time tonight. I've photographed Trebarwith a few times a would love to go back their with a filter to try and get the kind of shot you did.
Awesome. Brilliantly demonstrated 👏👏
You make sound and look so easy and I need to have a good think on what filters to buy but I have a good idea now, thanks for the advise......
Great info made simple - easy to follow and well crafted video - other bloggers take note! Thanks
Thanks Peter!
what was that app called
Clear, concise and to the point. Good job.
Awesome, straight and clear video. My 10 out of 10.
This is a great explanation, can you tell me the name of the app you are using? Thanks
Great video with clear information, thank you.
A very deliberate and precise presentation. Enjoyed the explanation of filters and their applications. The showing of the end product ( the shots) were very helpful . Thank You. San Diego
For somebody who wants to do it easier and not using a app to calculate your exposure.... use a remote control..... press and lock.... take several shots.... and want an even longer exposure.... squeeze your aperture...... thanks for the vid!👍
I'm going to have to watch this again. There's a lot to take in here!
That picture with 'Solid ND' is beautiful.
Excellent and clear introduction for filters but could not find the tables for downloading promised on video
Very clear and concise tutorial. Thanks.
I more like the photo with solid ND filter than combined with gradual ND, but that's just my preferences. Great guide and really detailed instructions.
You explain so well that anyone can understand...thankyou
This was a fantastic tutorial on filters,Very clear explanation and results were amazing.cheers
Loved this tutorial. You've kept it very simple and clear. Thanks.
excellent tutorial. I'm a newcomer to photography (9mnths) I bought some grad filters recently and i just put them on or double up, etc. have had some nice images but now can take control and choose the right grad st time. 'll try it this weekend and let you know how it went. Thank for the vid subscribed. J
I have ignored this tool since I wasn't able to clearly understand it, especially using the Aspect slider. Thanks again for a great lesson.
Great video. Low key, high results
this might be a stupid question but can you use this filter with people in a mountain scene??
Thanks a lot for this very cllear explanation in the use of g filters.
good advice, I am going to try it too
One of the better videos on the topic. Succinct and informative.
Dud you mention that it’s best to take test pic ...set the focus then go into manual focus ..using a ten stop filter will sometimes block out too much light
Thank you for the cleanest of tutorials. Really enjoyed it.
Thanks for the clear information! Enjoyed your video👍
What a great explanation of filter use, clear and straight to the point instructions.
Where is this location? I've been racking my brain, It looks familiar.
Cheers
Absolutely brilliant. Very clear and informative and a nice presentation style. Really helpful thanks.
Just remember to use manual focus with the big stopper [or for every shot!] as the camera will hunt when it is in position.
To darken the sky you could’ve used a plain colored filter instead - red for dramatic darkening, yellow for more balanced
Awesome presentation 👏
Great video and clear information told well, many thanks
Hi Ross, Could you please expand on the last part of the tutorial. You mentioned using the Histogram to determine if you actually need a Grad. I always thought it was too control the highlights eg bright sky and keeping the shadow detail say within the foreground. But you made particular reference to Mid-tone part of the Histogram? Thanks James
Hi James. Ross is saying that you don't always need to use a grad - sometimes the dynamic range of the shot isn't that great. The histogram showing a horseshoe shape is good for determining whether or not a grad is needed to level out the exposure.
Superb instructional video... thank you.
Enjoyed this video thanks however there is No link for your Paramo Jackets Ross Hoddinott.
How do you set metering and what does it mean?
Have uv and cpl. Didn't know best for landscape, you've helped. Still need more on my 2. U did well. Thanks
you did a great job explaining everything. thank you
Excellent instructional video Ross.👌
Thanks for a good instructional video. It was clarifying. Now I have a question. In your gear list there is a 17-35/2.8. I also have that lens but I have heard that the 16-35/4 is sharper so I have thought about replacing my 17-35 with the 16-35. What is s your opinion on that? Compared to my prime 35 there is a big difference but maybe not so big difference between the two zoom lenses? Since you’re using the 17-35 I guess you like it but in case you have experience from both of the lenses it would be nice to hear your opinion before I replace it. Best regards.
nice one, very interesting thanks
Great video but did combine the 10stop and 2stop graduated shots on your photo editor or you mounted both on the stops and take the shot. If you mounted both stoppers how did you compensate for the shutter speed?
samuel fatobi None of these shots are composites. In the video ross mentions the app he uses on his phone to calculate the shutter speed.
Dear Sir,
Very nice and interesting vlog. I do have a question. What objective do you use in your vlog?
Kind regards,
Eef
Nice video but you should always close the lid on the viewfinder to keep away stray light from hitting the sensor as well as mirror up and 3 second delay for optimal performance...
Great video on filters. Thanks.
I did enjoy and I did find your tutorial helpful, subscribed and liked thank you for taking the time to explain at a good even pace with plenty of examples.
very helpful. I learned quite a bit. Thanks for creating it.
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video - a really full, clear and helpful explanation. (Subscribed!)
Great video and very clear! Where was this filmed? Really cool area.
This was a fantastic tutorial on filters. I had never heard about using the histogram pattern for helping decide to use a Grad. What a great tip! Excellent video and clear explanation of everything. I am now subscribed to your channel. Thanks.
Great insight, thanks
Great vid - but perhaps correct the boo boo at 2:30. A 3-stop filter induces 8 times the duration of the unfiltered shot. (I suggest a zap/pow speech bubble to over-dub this slip up).
Just saw this video. Thanks for the great quality and the instructional value. What is your opinion about reverse graduated filters?
Very informative thank you.
Thanks. Very useful video ! I keep re-viewing this... so helpful ! :-)
Love your videos and the information is great. Thanks for sharing you knowledge with us.
Great tutorial - where is the location ?
Thank you so much !
You explain it all very clear and in a easy way !
Great instructional video, thanks.
Excellent explaantions, but to be honest except for some very special cases (extremely quickly changing scenery maybe?) graduated filters are kinda obsolete. Taking multiple exposures and masking is far superior, no silly black peaks&other objects sometimes still seen in photos.
Very helpful thanks and really well presented 👌
GREAT VIDEO!
Excellent video & a lovely place for photography. I love Trevose Head.
Great clear video.
Very good info and a well made video, just the job !
Nice video. However would be handy if a wb can be explained in bit more detail. ESP how to set WB in camera with ND filterAttached.
Thanks for helpful institutional video
New to landscape....what is the remote/shutter device you’re using to take the shot? I have a canon 5d3 wondering if I can use the same device? Thanks to anyone who can point me in a good direction!
Try this! geni.us/QM4k1dU
NatureTTL thank you thank you! 🤗
Thanks for all the info :) I have only just bought my first polarising filter haha so this will be a learning curve, then who knows :)
Very explicative, nice video!
Great video thank you.Can i ask...if i use o polarizer with any nd solid or grad i have to calculate also the light that i am loosing from pl? Greetings from Greece
You put those filters on first, and then look at the exposure through the camera's metering. You can then put that into the app when you add solid NDs on and calculate from there.
was that simple,thank you...my mind....
Could please explain the focus technique we have to use when using the Lee big stopper? I have failed in my first attempt to have a sharp image when using automatically focus and i didnt have a lot of time to practice. My thought is to focus automatically and then place the filters and turn the focus into Manual
I use back button focus in live view first. Then put on filter and use cable shutter release on d750.
Great video....helpful, brilliantly explained....thank you!!
Great explanatory video. BTW, what is the jacket brand you are wearing?😀
Has anyone tried using a gradual nd filter as a full solid nd? Just slide up the filter until the whole frame is covered by the darkened section of the filter? Thanks!
good explanation