Mike I don’t know why your channel doesn’t have millions of subscribers. Your delivery of information is exceptional and the editing is fun as well. Thank you for the approach and support you are offering
Haha! I'm still trying to figure that one out as well! 😆🤦🏻♂️ Thanks so much for your kind words! I've been meaning to do this one for a while so it was great to be able to get out and finally film it. Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Yeah you must feel cheated, it’s probably an algorithm based on the search criteria. Good news is when it lights up people will have a whole back catalogue to discover.
Oh yes, the dreaded algorithm! 😆🤦🏻♂️ There is a lot to do with researching the topic as well as getting good titles and thumbnails ... which is in essence the marketing of the video, but then it also seems to be a bit hapazard at times, no matter how big the channel is. I had a video that popped a couple of months ago which is currently on 259,000 views; this boosted the overall performance, but it seems to be dying off again back to what it was before the pickup. It's definitely a full time job, the trick is making it sustainable... 🤔 Thanks for your words of encouragement! Lots more to come!! 😁👍
The best photography channel on TH-cam period... thank you for all these informations and demonstrations ...this courses are university level...big respect teacher
@@mikesphotography love watching your videos very helpful and educational, and very well done I must say, it must take a lot of time and effort but we'll worth the payoff well explained thankyou Mike top shelf.
Bloody hell ... there's a whole lot of information going on in this video. This is going to need several revisits! 🤯😉 That said, what a damn good, and informative, video it is. I know very little about editing and putting videos together but I'm guessing that was a whole lot of work. Fantastic work, Mike! 🙌🏼. Closing in on 100k subs - well done mate - thoroughly deserved 👍🏼
Thanks so much!! This one was a bit of an audio nightmare ... at the beach, I had to keep the sentences short enough to fit between the waves, at Cregennan lakes, it sounded like the geese were having an orgy in the background and then at the third location, the fast jets started getting in on the action!! 😆🙈 In saying that, I really enjoyed writing and editing this one... and the back of cam shot seems to work really well. Great to hear you like it ... 100k is getting close ins't it ... might have to arrange some kind of giveaway ... if I can blag some free kit that is. As always thanks for watching dude 😁👍
This was a great overview of long exposures, Mike. It has been a little while since I did long exposures, but this video may get me out there to play a little. I love the effects of long exposure photography. It is still looking chilly there, unless you filmed this one a while back. We are in full on summer over here. Take care brother.
Thanks dude! This was about 5am and we have north westerly winds at the moment, so it is still a little nippy at that time of the day. 🥶 Long exposures are a lot of fun aren't they... Every now and then I'll forget about them and then I'll do one and remember how much fun they are. I bet it's fantastically warm with you guys now! 😁👍
Amazing tutorial! You have covered the subject in a very extraordinary manner, thank you so much for the share of your knowledge. There is so much valuable informations in this video and you go on every aspect we need to know. I'm a new follower!
Another great vid, Mike. About the bag anchoring the tripod - I saw this tip several years ago: pack a short bungee cord, and hang it between your tripod anchor point and the bag. The bag can then rest on the ground and won’t swing, but will still have enough heft to keep the tripod reasonable steady. Not in a gale, of course, but it’s surprisingly effective…
Hey Jeff! That's a great tip... I've been thinking of making something with a bungee cord with some sort of anchor, so it is great to hear that someone has thought of it already! Like you said, best to have the bag away from the incoming water!! 😆 I hope all is good with you dude! And as always, thanks for watching 😁👍
No worries Armin! I actually did a video on Photopills a while back: th-cam.com/video/soxILPbOUsU/w-d-xo.html Although I probably need to do an updated version of this as it is 4 years old now... and I cringe watching myself in this one!! 😆😆 Thanks for watching 😁👍
I've been trying to find a video that simply explains long exposure and ND filters for about a month now and not found anything as good as this video. Love how you show the pictures with all the different exposure times and even without a filter. I'm new to it all and trying to figure out how it all works and what I'll need to buy to progress. Thank you for the video
Hey Mike, great video as always. A couple days ago I was thinking, "I haven't seen any of Mike's videos show up in my TH-cam list for a long time." Then today, this video shows up from 5 months ago. I'm not sure why they are trying to prevent me from learning from your amazing videos, but glad to see this one come up and I will make an effort to watch more of them again. Glad to see your channel is growing, you really are very good at these things, so keep it up!
Hey Seth, This has got to be one of the most frustrating things with TH-cam... there are people like yourself that want quality content but aren't being fed it... Unfortunately for me and the channel, life has gotten in the way and I've had to get a real job... and haven't been able to make a video for the past 3 months. 😫 I might get back to making videos again someday, but unfortunately I haven't been able to make it get to a point where it was making enough to pay the bills... and when it is taking up 60-70 hours in a week, it really needs to pay the bills! 😆 Thanks for checking in with me though, I really appreciate your kindness. 😁👍
@mikesphotography I definitely understand that! Funny enough, I was literally on a conference call for work this morning and was talking to one of my team members in India. He mentioned he is traveling to Dubai next weekend and hoping to get some great photos. I told him to check out your videos as a great reference. That was 90 minutes ago. You have a great library of videos already, but it would be great to see a new video every once in a while just to see how you're doing. Good luck, and thank you for everything you have already done!
@SethHalstead thanks so much Seth! I definitely want to do more videos once I get settled... And I do have a video planned explaining my absence.... Just need to find the time to film it. 😆 👍👍
Hey! Sorry for my late comment !! I like that you got a lot of ocean, lakes and rivers in this video 😄 14:15 reminds me of the waves at the beach in Denmark 😁
@@mikesphotography ok😊 yeah, there are atleast lot of beache’s, and i saw i wrote beach wrong (beaqch) on my first commen’t, i corrected my typo, but your like (heart) on the commen’t dissapeared🥴 there are some breakwater piers to take photo’s of too where i live in Denmark on vacation😊 it’s a harbour city😅 and ship’s🙈
Vid lives up to “ultimate guide” label, Mike. My guess is that lots of viewers will be replaying this one and taking notes. Nice. Cityscapes sometimes shot at longer exposures to eliminate crowds moving about - something you aluded to. Good DSLR, NR and IBIS tips as well. Cool “color shift” demo and camera screen timer overlay. Wish Sony had the Olympus long exposure “live view” feature - the LCD gradually displays the image as the light accumulates - so you can stop the capture when things look right. Moving sky issue can be solved via in-post sky replacement, as needed. Picnic table, a plus😊. Not to beat a dead horse, noticed again that the YT “bell” posting messages for this one and one by Henry Turner were time stamped 5/18 1:02 PM (US Eastern Daylight Savings Time). Don’t get that odd thing elsewhere. Starting to think “Mike” and “Henry” are avatars of the same guy😊. Kidding aside, Mike, what’s a logical explanation for this? You guys on the same Internet provider? Cheers!
Thanks very much!! I had noticed that most other long exposure tutorials don't really cover everything you need to know ... so I just had to do this one. Haha! I hope you are telling Henry the same thing ... 😆 He must be setting his videos to release at 6pm UK time on Thursdays as well ... and then it takes a few minutes to get the emails out to everyone ... maybe I'll set mine to release 5 minutes earlier next time so everyone gets my email first... 🤔 It would be better to have a live view feature in the Sony cameras instead of a blank screen wouldn't it. Lol ... well you know my thoughts on sky replacements from this video: th-cam.com/video/3CdSNmlyeSY/w-d-xo.html As always thanks for watching Paul 😁👍
I love your color grading.. can you please share your setup for vlogging it’s smooth and super clear.. and thank you for you informative videos.. i saw them all 😍
Thanks so much for your kind words! 😁 I use the Sony A7C with the 17-28mm f2.8 from Tamron. I keep it at f2.8 for most of the talking pieces to camera and then use smaller apertures for some of the B-roll where I need a deeper focus. I don't worry about keeping my shutter speed low either. When it gets bright, I crank the shutter speed up and I don't worry about using ND filters either. For the walking shots where the camera is moving, I just use a tripod as a "selfie stick" and then use Catalyst Browse to stabilise the shots as the A7C saves the Gyro data. This stabilisation works really well and it almost looks like I shoot with a gimbal. Another trick I do is when the camera is static on a tripod, is to shoot a 1 minute video exposing for the sky, and then shoot the talking piece to camera with exactly the same frame. I then composite the sky over the talking video so it looks like the sky is well exposed when in the original shot it was over exposed. This gives the impression of a much higher dynamic range than the camera can actually record... With the audio, I have the Hollyland Lark, and this works really well as I don't have to worry about my distance from the camera, as long as I am in range, it will pick it up and record my voice. I hope that helps!! Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks so much Miguel!! I have been meaning to make this one for a while so it was great to finally get it filmed and edited... and it's great o hear you liked it! As always thanks for watching 😁👍
Thank you. This was extremely helpful. I actually just bought the PolarPro magnetic Helix VND filters and got them yesterday. I'm new to long exposure. So hopefully they don't 'cause the issues you highlighted in the video. I live on Florida's Space Coast. So once I get some practice with long exposures on the beach, I'm going to try to get a rocket launch long exposure at night...This video was so helpful and I can't wait to apply what you just taught me. Respect.
Great to hear it has helped!! As long as your magnetic VND has hard stops, you shouldn't get the X pattern. They put the hard stops in so you can't turn it to those positions that create the x pattern. Good luck with shooting the launch, I'd love to see that let alone shoot it!! Thanks for watching 😁👍
It may be subjective, but I do find that longer exposures tend to feel richer in colour and more saturated, even if there's no movement in the image. So I'll tend to set up for the longest exposure possible at sunrise/sunset to really bring depth of colour. I've not actually tested this theory though... maybe I should!
Great video ! Somethings I experienced : 1)the glass rectangular filters are very fragile, I broke mine. Now I only use screw on filters 2) variable nd-filters are no good 3) an nd-grad (which makes the sky darker) creates a picture you can't fix in post. it's beter to use a normal nd-filter and process the sky in post on your computer
I wish I saw this video before I tried long exposure at the beach. I did mine in the evening when it was getting dark, and I did a 20 second exposure but looking back at the image I think it was too slow. Now I have watched this video I will order some ND filters and re-try this type of photography. Thanks Mike! :)
Thanks so much Luke!! Every now and then I do go out with friends, but a lot of them are not morning people ... also filming these videos takes a lot of time, and I prefer talking to the camera when there aren't that many others around. 😆 Also sometimes my wife is behind the camera, but she constantly corrects me messing up my lines... 😆😆 Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks so much Keith!! I'm having a lot of fun writing, filming and editing these videos ... and I have a new back of cam rig and it is working really well for those shots!! I do get some funny looks though when I am shooting with my a7iv with the a7c filming the back of that camera!! 😆 Loved your last video as well!! Fun video with lots of great tips!! 👍 As always thanks for watching dude 😁
Haha! Just without the cheezy intro music!! 😆 Neil Buchanan is a master presenter, so I am very honoured to be put into the same light as him!! 😀 Thanks for watching 😁👍
Another great video Mike, A7C doesn't have a port for remote control ... need bluetooth or whatever its called ... A bit beyond my capabilities lol... 30secs will do me
Yep, you need the Sony bluetooth remote trigger for the A7C... one of the downsides to the smaller form factor. As always thanks for watching Linda... and happy new year! 😁👍
And that is where bracketing comes in to play!! For the 5 minute exposure of the lake at the end, I used my 10 stop and 6 stop stacked ... having 15 stops is great for super long exposures!! As always thanks for watching Villiam 😁👍
Great info Mike! A couple things I’d recommend. One don’t shoot at ISO 50 on the Sony or any camera that’s not within its native range unless you have no choice. Shooting at ISO 50 compromises the image quality and causes highlights to clip faster. Better to add an ND at ISO 100 if possible. And two, ditch the clunky primitive wired remote and invest in a Bluetooth wireless remote or use the smartphone app. Both are far better options than putting wear and tear on the camera ports and having exposed open door covers for dirt and moisture to get in.
Now you've sent me down a rabbit hole with your ISO recommendation!! That is a really interesting thing they don't tell you about ... or at least I missed it if it is in the manual. 😆 I don't think many people know a lot about iso 50 so I might have to make a video about it in the future... once I have researched it completely. Thanks so much and thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography thanks Mike, that would be a great video to do! Don’t get me wrong, I do it too in a pinch. Just yesterday I was shooting flowing creek landscape photos and even with overcast light, f/16 aperture and a polarizer I still was not getting slow enough shutter speeds so ended up using ISO 50. I noticed right away I was clipping my highlights if I was even just slightly overexposed compared to more forgiving outcomes at ISO 100. I always enjoy your adventures, insights and videos, please keep them coming!
Haha!! Thanks so much!!! Maybe I should phone up your boss and tell him to get with the program for next years annual appraisal... 🤔😆 Thanks for watching Deepan 😁👍
Hi, just found your channel. Well explained. Do you use a specific metering mode? Wondering if you get the light level from the clouds, then the foreground to work out which nd filter to use,or would that be a way of working out which nd grad filter to use?
FYI, the ProGlass IRND app does not work on recent Android phones (not on mine anyways and I'm on Android 13). I am using Exposure Calculator. Not as pretty but still doing the job. Thank you for sharing.
Hi Demian, I'd recommend the Lowepro protactic bags. I have the 450AWii ( geni.us/Lowepro450AWii ), but with that setup you might be able to get away with the AW350. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😁👍
I enjoyed the discussion very much, but was surprised at the comments on variable ND filters. I’ve been using one for several years and find it indispensable because of the flexibility to adjust for different exposure times on the fly and the ability to react quickly to changing light. It includes a polarizer that operates separately and is also very helpful. Unfortunately it was pricey…. Maybe you could try a different brand and see if you get better results.
Hi Phil, Thanks for your thoughts. With a VND, I have had many different ones, including the latest ones with hard stops, as well as the ones that are "10 filters in one" from freewell and polarpro. The older VNDs were just marketed badly as the saviour for all, instead of like you said, one that can cover a few different options with the ability to change it quickly. The downside to VNDs is that as they use two separate bits of polarised glass, when you turn them, they do show a level of polarisation in your frame; if where you want the exposure to be is not where you want the polarisation to be, I've found this to be annoying. This is why I prefer fixed NDs... and with the three primary settings in your camera, it is pretty easy to dial in the settings you want quickly. It is great to hear you get on with them though. Out of interest, which brand do you have, and does it have hard stops built in to it?
@@mikesphotography It's a Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo, which does not have hard stops. I prefer to turn the filter to change exposure and generally keep the exposure, aperture, and ISO constant. Polarization only seems to occur when adjusting the actual polarizer, not when adjusting the ND filter. The live view histogram on my DSLR has been pretty good at predicting the actual results, even with up to a 30 second exposure.
Hi Tim, I did, but by the time I had finished filming this one, the light had gone. I am hoping to get up there at the weekend as they were looking great earlier in the week. Now this may sound like a dumb question, but as it is my first proper spring in the uk for about 8 years (after living abroad), how long do the bluebells stick around for? Thanks for watching 😁👍
Sorry, I didn't make that as clear as I should have. at 30 seconds, it was 2 stops under exposed, so I had to add 2 stops of light. so for 1 stop, double 30 seconds to 60 seconds (1minute) and then for second stop, double 60 seconds to 120 seconds (2 minutes). Does that make sense. I use the freewell magnetic filters, they are great and don't have any noticeable colour casts in them. Here's the link to the 10 stop: geni.us/Freewell10stopND Thanks for watching 😁👍
If use 10stop filter and then compensate that with aperture I need to use bulb mode for shutter release so its changing anyway but not 10 stop more then that what’s the solution
It all depends on the quality you are using. I have stacked them in the past and had some good results. The best way to find out is to take a photo without the filter, and then shoot through one and then two filters to see if there is any loss in quality. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Have you had much success taking shots of busy locations and trying to rub out the tourists? I had a play, while on holiday once, but I don't think I kept the shutter open long enough. I was probably fighting a losing battle in the Mediterranean midday sun.
Hey Frank, Yes, I've done a few in Dubai and also in Petra, in Jordan. I sometimes use long exposures ... but then there is always that one person that stands still for the whole time and messes up the whole shot!! 😆 When this happens, I just wait for them to move and then get another shot so I can blend them together. Although, when they are really small in the frame, photoshop does a great job of getting rid of them. As always thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography How long would you have had to keep the shutter open in such bright conditions? I could stack a 6 stop and 10 stop for reeeeeeeaaaaallllyyy sllllooooowwwww shutter speeds.
Haha!! I was wondering who would comment on that first!! 😆😆😆 I have to admit, when there is a fleeting bit of light and I'm running around trying to get the best shot before it's gone, I do this a lot... I end up having to clear everything back up once done! Maybe I'm a bit too wreckless for photography...🤔😆🤦🏻♂️
I hear the Olympus cameras are fantastic with the live view function for long exposures!! They are a fun way to capture landscapes aren't they!! As always thanks for watching 😁👍
Just pick this video up even if it is a year old, simple and helpful. What about a variable ND filter? I know you said try and avoid ‘cheap’ filters, but would inexpensive ones at least help you learn how they work?
Some of the VNDs with hard stops are good, but expensive, but if you can find one that works for you than that is all good. I just think that having a few fixes NDs is better than a variable ND. Thanks for watching 👍
If anyone can answer this it would be outstanding as finding an explanation has been a challenge. Question: What is the limitation of a typical smartphone @ 24fps/exp 1/48th where a light emitting object in motion would cause a long exposure effect similar to cars on a road with the trail of light? In other words, the object travels a substantial distance during the 1/48th exposure time where just a trail is captured. Question 2: Can a minimum measurement of speed of this object be estimated by an answer to the first question?
You would need to know one other element to get the speed, and that is the distance. Once you know the time of the exposure and the distance travelled, then you would be able to work out the speed. Likewise, if you knew the speed, and the exposure time, you would then be able to work out the distance travelled. This is why a lot of speed cameras have dashed lines on the floor where they take the photographs. Obviously they need sharp images to get the registration plates, so the shutter speeds are really short, but in taking two shots with a predetermined time between the two shots, and the lines giving the distance, this gives two parts to the equation enabling you to work out the speed. time x distance = speed. 👍
This was very useful! Good to know you must put it on manual and add one extra minute for each step the image is underexposed. Will you have a big give-away when you pass 100.000 subscribers? Maybe you can give away your new Tamron 50-400 mm? I drivel for that🙂
Haha!! If I was a rich man I would ... unfortunately TH-cam doesn't pay that well ... 😫🙈 ... I am planning something though. 😀 Ah, so I didn't explain that properly. When it is under exposed, you need to add one stop of light for each step, and it works on a logarithmic scale. So in the example I gave, it went from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, because to add one stop to a 30 second exposure, you double that to 60 seconds (one minute), and then double it again, so 60 seconds x2, giving two minutes. If you needed to add another stop of light, you would have to double that once again, so 4 minutes, and then another stop would be 8 minutes. so every time you add a stop of light, you have to double the exposure time. Does that make sense?
@@mikesphotography I'll see another morning I slept better, if I can grabb it? Hope you soon reach 1 million subscribers, and that you'll consider giving away that lens then🙂
Good lenses work perfectly fine at f16... only the cheaper lenses really have a problem at that aperture, and you'll have more in focus from front to back.
Lol. So from looking at an image you can definitively tell how long the exposure was? For that shot it was about 25 seconds, but you probably won't believe me as I'm a "youtuber" ...
Mike I don’t know why your channel doesn’t have millions of subscribers. Your delivery of information is exceptional and the editing is fun as well. Thank you for the approach and support you are offering
Haha! I'm still trying to figure that one out as well! 😆🤦🏻♂️
Thanks so much for your kind words! I've been meaning to do this one for a while so it was great to be able to get out and finally film it.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Yeah you must feel cheated, it’s probably an algorithm based on the search criteria. Good news is when it lights up people will have a whole back catalogue to discover.
Oh yes, the dreaded algorithm! 😆🤦🏻♂️
There is a lot to do with researching the topic as well as getting good titles and thumbnails ... which is in essence the marketing of the video, but then it also seems to be a bit hapazard at times, no matter how big the channel is.
I had a video that popped a couple of months ago which is currently on 259,000 views; this boosted the overall performance, but it seems to be dying off again back to what it was before the pickup.
It's definitely a full time job, the trick is making it sustainable... 🤔
Thanks for your words of encouragement! Lots more to come!! 😁👍
The hard work will pay sooner or later...we love your lessons plz keep teaching us !
The guy has over 100K subscribers - that's no joke! It takes time to have have millions of subscribers. Give him a couple of years :)
The best photography channel on TH-cam period... thank you for all these informations and demonstrations ...this courses are university level...big respect teacher
Thanks so much for your kind words Mohamed! 😁👍
This is my favourite photography topic , nothing like it, fresh air peaceful calming. Thanks Mike.
Exactly!! Long exposures definitely get you to slow down and think about the process.
As always thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography love watching your videos very helpful and educational, and very well done I must say, it must take a lot of time and effort but we'll worth the payoff well explained thankyou Mike top shelf.
Bloody hell ... there's a whole lot of information going on in this video. This is going to need several revisits! 🤯😉 That said, what a damn good, and informative, video it is. I know very little about editing and putting videos together but I'm guessing that was a whole lot of work. Fantastic work, Mike! 🙌🏼. Closing in on 100k subs - well done mate - thoroughly deserved 👍🏼
Thanks so much!! This one was a bit of an audio nightmare ... at the beach, I had to keep the sentences short enough to fit between the waves, at Cregennan lakes, it sounded like the geese were having an orgy in the background and then at the third location, the fast jets started getting in on the action!! 😆🙈
In saying that, I really enjoyed writing and editing this one... and the back of cam shot seems to work really well.
Great to hear you like it ... 100k is getting close ins't it ... might have to arrange some kind of giveaway ... if I can blag some free kit that is.
As always thanks for watching dude 😁👍
This is a very comprehensive, easy to follow guide - thanks very much
This was a great overview of long exposures, Mike. It has been a little while since I did long exposures, but this video may get me out there to play a little. I love the effects of long exposure photography. It is still looking chilly there, unless you filmed this one a while back. We are in full on summer over here. Take care brother.
Thanks dude!
This was about 5am and we have north westerly winds at the moment, so it is still a little nippy at that time of the day. 🥶
Long exposures are a lot of fun aren't they... Every now and then I'll forget about them and then I'll do one and remember how much fun they are.
I bet it's fantastically warm with you guys now! 😁👍
Very informative! Thank you. Love your tutorials!
No worries, I hope you got something from it!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Amazing tutorial! You have covered the subject in a very extraordinary manner, thank you so much for the share of your knowledge. There is so much valuable informations in this video and you go on every aspect we need to know. I'm a new follower!
Another great vid, Mike. About the bag anchoring the tripod - I saw this tip several years ago: pack a short bungee cord, and hang it between your tripod anchor point and the bag. The bag can then rest on the ground and won’t swing, but will still have enough heft to keep the tripod reasonable steady. Not in a gale, of course, but it’s surprisingly effective…
…and it’s not a good idea if the tripod is above a stream, or the incoming tide!
Hey Jeff! That's a great tip... I've been thinking of making something with a bungee cord with some sort of anchor, so it is great to hear that someone has thought of it already!
Like you said, best to have the bag away from the incoming water!! 😆
I hope all is good with you dude!
And as always, thanks for watching 😁👍
This video is fantastic and exactly what I needed..Thank you 🙏🏼
Great to hear I could help. Thanks for watching 😁👍
As said. Such a precious channel. Glad I've found it a while ago. Have a great day Mike
Thanks so much Noel!! It's admin day today, but I am hoping to get out later on for a sunset!!
As always thanks for watching 😁👍
I love this channel. The speed and the explanations are awesome.
Thanks very much! 😁👍
Great Informative video, thanks for putting so much effort I to them. I saw you are using also Photo Pills, a video on that would be awesome 😀
No worries Armin!
I actually did a video on Photopills a while back: th-cam.com/video/soxILPbOUsU/w-d-xo.html
Although I probably need to do an updated version of this as it is 4 years old now... and I cringe watching myself in this one!! 😆😆
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I've been trying to find a video that simply explains long exposure and ND filters for about a month now and not found anything as good as this video. Love how you show the pictures with all the different exposure times and even without a filter. I'm new to it all and trying to figure out how it all works and what I'll need to buy to progress. Thank you for the video
Really well explained pal, that was amazing.
Hey Mike, great video as always. A couple days ago I was thinking, "I haven't seen any of Mike's videos show up in my TH-cam list for a long time." Then today, this video shows up from 5 months ago. I'm not sure why they are trying to prevent me from learning from your amazing videos, but glad to see this one come up and I will make an effort to watch more of them again. Glad to see your channel is growing, you really are very good at these things, so keep it up!
Hey Seth,
This has got to be one of the most frustrating things with TH-cam... there are people like yourself that want quality content but aren't being fed it...
Unfortunately for me and the channel, life has gotten in the way and I've had to get a real job... and haven't been able to make a video for the past 3 months. 😫
I might get back to making videos again someday, but unfortunately I haven't been able to make it get to a point where it was making enough to pay the bills... and when it is taking up 60-70 hours in a week, it really needs to pay the bills! 😆
Thanks for checking in with me though, I really appreciate your kindness. 😁👍
@mikesphotography I definitely understand that! Funny enough, I was literally on a conference call for work this morning and was talking to one of my team members in India. He mentioned he is traveling to Dubai next weekend and hoping to get some great photos. I told him to check out your videos as a great reference. That was 90 minutes ago. You have a great library of videos already, but it would be great to see a new video every once in a while just to see how you're doing. Good luck, and thank you for everything you have already done!
@SethHalstead thanks so much Seth!
I definitely want to do more videos once I get settled... And I do have a video planned explaining my absence.... Just need to find the time to film it. 😆
👍👍
WOW what an incredibly articulate and detailed presentation. Thank-you for your very high quality discussion. Succinct and crystal clear. 👍
Hello Mike, Wow! Boy o boy!! You are a fantastic and brilliant teacher. Your presentation and attention to details is outstanding. Truly awesome.😀
Hey! Sorry for my late comment !! I like that you got a lot of ocean, lakes and rivers in this video 😄 14:15 reminds me of the waves at the beach in Denmark 😁
No worries,
This was a fun one to do!!
I bet there are a lot of those beach defence groynes around Denmark!
As always thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography ok😊 yeah, there are atleast lot of beache’s, and i saw i wrote beach wrong (beaqch) on my first commen’t, i corrected my typo, but your like (heart) on the commen’t dissapeared🥴 there are some breakwater piers to take photo’s of too where i live in Denmark on vacation😊 it’s a harbour city😅 and ship’s🙈
Vid lives up to “ultimate guide” label, Mike. My guess is that lots of viewers will be replaying this one and taking notes. Nice.
Cityscapes sometimes shot at longer exposures to eliminate crowds moving about - something you aluded to. Good DSLR, NR and IBIS tips as well. Cool “color shift” demo and camera screen timer overlay.
Wish Sony had the Olympus long exposure “live view” feature - the LCD gradually displays the image as the light accumulates - so you can stop the capture when things look right.
Moving sky issue can be solved via in-post sky replacement, as needed.
Picnic table, a plus😊.
Not to beat a dead horse, noticed again that the YT “bell” posting messages for this one and one by Henry Turner were time stamped 5/18 1:02 PM (US Eastern Daylight Savings Time). Don’t get that odd thing elsewhere. Starting to think “Mike” and “Henry” are avatars of the same guy😊. Kidding aside, Mike, what’s a logical explanation for this? You guys on the same Internet provider? Cheers!
Thanks very much!! I had noticed that most other long exposure tutorials don't really cover everything you need to know ... so I just had to do this one.
Haha! I hope you are telling Henry the same thing ... 😆
He must be setting his videos to release at 6pm UK time on Thursdays as well ... and then it takes a few minutes to get the emails out to everyone ... maybe I'll set mine to release 5 minutes earlier next time so everyone gets my email first... 🤔
It would be better to have a live view feature in the Sony cameras instead of a blank screen wouldn't it.
Lol ... well you know my thoughts on sky replacements from this video: th-cam.com/video/3CdSNmlyeSY/w-d-xo.html
As always thanks for watching Paul 😁👍
I love your color grading.. can you please share your setup for vlogging it’s smooth and super clear.. and thank you for you informative videos.. i saw them all 😍
Thanks so much for your kind words! 😁
I use the Sony A7C with the 17-28mm f2.8 from Tamron. I keep it at f2.8 for most of the talking pieces to camera and then use smaller apertures for some of the B-roll where I need a deeper focus.
I don't worry about keeping my shutter speed low either. When it gets bright, I crank the shutter speed up and I don't worry about using ND filters either.
For the walking shots where the camera is moving, I just use a tripod as a "selfie stick" and then use Catalyst Browse to stabilise the shots as the A7C saves the Gyro data. This stabilisation works really well and it almost looks like I shoot with a gimbal.
Another trick I do is when the camera is static on a tripod, is to shoot a 1 minute video exposing for the sky, and then shoot the talking piece to camera with exactly the same frame. I then composite the sky over the talking video so it looks like the sky is well exposed when in the original shot it was over exposed. This gives the impression of a much higher dynamic range than the camera can actually record...
With the audio, I have the Hollyland Lark, and this works really well as I don't have to worry about my distance from the camera, as long as I am in range, it will pick it up and record my voice.
I hope that helps!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography very helpful.. thanks for your reply and help.. all the best 😍
You're a great teacher! Love your channel! 🙏Thank you for your help
Thank you for your kind words, this really motivates me to make more!!
Thanks for watching Eric 😁👍
Info and guidance mixed with education, all packed in high quality videos. Thats what you do! Thank you.
Yo
A great video, Mike. The examples being shot on video clearly shows how shutter speed shows on the final image. Stay safe.
Thanks so much Lance! I've been meaning to make this one for a while, so it was good to finally get it filmed!
As always thanks for watching dude 😁👍
A really incredible video thank you, very concentrated, not one breath or second wasted!
Thanks very much Bruce!!
I try to keep my tutorials as efficient as possible!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
... all needed informations in one video... thank you so much, Mike... 🌅🌅🌅
Great to hear! This was a fun one to do and wanted to make it a one stop video for everything long exposure! Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks so much for sharing another awesome video like always Mike, it's always a joy to watch your videos and learn so much 📸👍🤗
Thanks so much Miguel!! I have been meaning to make this one for a while so it was great to finally get it filmed and edited... and it's great o hear you liked it!
As always thanks for watching 😁👍
Thank you Mike! So good as always.
No worries Dallas, and as always thanks for watching 😁👍
Thank you. This was extremely helpful. I actually just bought the PolarPro magnetic Helix VND filters and got them yesterday. I'm new to long exposure. So hopefully they don't 'cause the issues you highlighted in the video. I live on Florida's Space Coast. So once I get some practice with long exposures on the beach, I'm going to try to get a rocket launch long exposure at night...This video was so helpful and I can't wait to apply what you just taught me. Respect.
Great to hear it has helped!!
As long as your magnetic VND has hard stops, you shouldn't get the X pattern. They put the hard stops in so you can't turn it to those positions that create the x pattern.
Good luck with shooting the launch, I'd love to see that let alone shoot it!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Waouw, a lot of informations in only 15 minutes. Thanks for taking time to make this excellent video !
No worries Michael, great to hear you liked it!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hi Mike, wow... Very informative! Thanks for the tutorial.
No worries, glad you like it!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
It may be subjective, but I do find that longer exposures tend to feel richer in colour and more saturated, even if there's no movement in the image. So I'll tend to set up for the longest exposure possible at sunrise/sunset to really bring depth of colour. I've not actually tested this theory though... maybe I should!
That's a good point James. Maybe the camera has time to get all of the colours in the scene properly?
As always thanks for watching 😁👍
Thank you for the tips, Mike!
No worries Victor, thanks for watching 😁👍
Great video ! Somethings I experienced : 1)the glass rectangular filters are very fragile, I broke mine. Now I only use screw on filters 2) variable nd-filters are no good 3) an nd-grad (which makes the sky darker) creates a picture you can't fix in post. it's beter to use a normal nd-filter and process the sky in post on your computer
Sony mod 1 and 2 has two on camera apps for images Digital Filter and Sky HDR do long exposer first then short exposure
Great channel, subscribed & looking forward to binging through your videos😁
Great, easy to understand instruction with good hints and tips 👌
Thanks so much for your kind words Sue!! This was a challenging one to shot but a lot of fun as well!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I wish I saw this video before I tried long exposure at the beach. I did mine in the evening when it was getting dark, and I did a 20 second exposure but looking back at the image I think it was too slow. Now I have watched this video I will order some ND filters and re-try this type of photography. Thanks Mike! :)
such a great video mate! Thanks so much
No worries, thanks for watching 😁👍
Great stuff!! Beautiful photos. Been watching you for a while now, do you ever go shooting with a friend?
Thanks so much Luke!!
Every now and then I do go out with friends, but a lot of them are not morning people ... also filming these videos takes a lot of time, and I prefer talking to the camera when there aren't that many others around. 😆
Also sometimes my wife is behind the camera, but she constantly corrects me messing up my lines... 😆😆
Thanks for watching 😁👍
GREAT VIDEO very helpful..What would you recommend for thunder and lightning and fireworks
Really great and informative Mike! Always impressed with your production quality 😁
Thanks so much Keith!! I'm having a lot of fun writing, filming and editing these videos ... and I have a new back of cam rig and it is working really well for those shots!! I do get some funny looks though when I am shooting with my a7iv with the a7c filming the back of that camera!! 😆
Loved your last video as well!! Fun video with lots of great tips!! 👍
As always thanks for watching dude 😁
Great vid, Mike, realy well done
Thanks very much!! 😁👍
So helpful thank you Mike ✌🏼Love this channel 🙏🏼
Glad to be able to help. Thanks for watching 😁👍
A 15 minute master class- Thanks!
No worries, Thanks for watching Ken 😁👍
The free filter app that calculates the shutter speed for ND filters was valuable info. Overall this video was very informative. Thanks.
Great to hear I could help!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Doesn't seem to be availible on Android or Google Play Store Version 40.4.31-31
I don't know why, but your videos remind me of Art Attack but for adults and for photography. Great video edits, cool examples and VERY informative!
Haha! Just without the cheezy intro music!! 😆
Neil Buchanan is a master presenter, so I am very honoured to be put into the same light as him!! 😀
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Awesome man! 😎 I’ve never considered long exposure of clouds. I’ll have to try it out! ✌️
Great to hear!! Let me know how you get on!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Another great video Mike, A7C doesn't have a port for remote control ... need bluetooth or whatever its called ... A bit beyond my capabilities lol... 30secs will do me
Yep, you need the Sony bluetooth remote trigger for the A7C... one of the downsides to the smaller form factor.
As always thanks for watching Linda... and happy new year! 😁👍
I have 15 stop filter, and 6 stop digital in the camera 😊 but the 6 stop is useless on the sun 😬 but the 15 stop filter is for my tele lens.
And that is where bracketing comes in to play!!
For the 5 minute exposure of the lake at the end, I used my 10 stop and 6 stop stacked ... having 15 stops is great for super long exposures!!
As always thanks for watching Villiam 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I have live composite, so I can just let it run while it stacks live 😊
Great info Mike! A couple things I’d recommend. One don’t shoot at ISO 50 on the Sony or any camera that’s not within its native range unless you have no choice. Shooting at ISO 50 compromises the image quality and causes highlights to clip faster. Better to add an ND at ISO 100 if possible. And two, ditch the clunky primitive wired remote and invest in a Bluetooth wireless remote or use the smartphone app. Both are far better options than putting wear and tear on the camera ports and having exposed open door covers for dirt and moisture to get in.
Now you've sent me down a rabbit hole with your ISO recommendation!!
That is a really interesting thing they don't tell you about ... or at least I missed it if it is in the manual. 😆
I don't think many people know a lot about iso 50 so I might have to make a video about it in the future... once I have researched it completely.
Thanks so much and thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography thanks Mike, that would be a great video to do! Don’t get me wrong, I do it too in a pinch. Just yesterday I was shooting flowing creek landscape photos and even with overcast light, f/16 aperture and a polarizer I still was not getting slow enough shutter speeds so ended up using ISO 50. I noticed right away I was clipping my highlights if I was even just slightly overexposed compared to more forgiving outcomes at ISO 100. I always enjoy your adventures, insights and videos, please keep them coming!
@@mikesphotography I think iso 50 does some in camera noise reduction, but look foward to your findings!
Another good tutorial Mike
Thanks very much Lyn!! 😁👍
This channel is more underrated than my efforts during annual appraisal rating in my organisation! 😶😶💔💔
Haha!! Thanks so much!!! Maybe I should phone up your boss and tell him to get with the program for next years annual appraisal... 🤔😆
Thanks for watching Deepan 😁👍
Great content.
What area did you get the waterfall shots from
Hi, just found your channel. Well explained.
Do you use a specific metering mode?
Wondering if you get the light level from the clouds, then the foreground to work out which nd filter to use,or would that be a way of working out which nd grad filter to use?
FYI, the ProGlass IRND app does not work on recent Android phones (not on mine anyways and I'm on Android 13). I am using Exposure Calculator. Not as pretty but still doing the job. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for letting us know. I'll have to try out the exposure calculator to see what that one is like.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Excellent video,I found it really useful.
Great to hear! Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hello, the micro mic ur using is not on ur list? What is it?
Well done summary!
Hi Mike, what gear backpack/ bag do you recommend ?
(Gear= R6Mk2, 24-70 + 70-200, Flashes, even second body, etc)
Hi Demian,
I'd recommend the Lowepro protactic bags. I have the 450AWii ( geni.us/Lowepro450AWii ), but with that setup you might be able to get away with the AW350.
I hope that helps.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
With such a wide subject, you could make a dozen different videos. Anyway, as always, very well presented. Thanks.
That is true, and maybe this time next year I will have a dozen more videos! 😁
Thanks for watching 👍
Great video, love the maths bit, very informative❤
Thanks so much! I was thinking of cutting the mathsy bit out, but now I am glad I left it in!!
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I enjoyed the discussion very much, but was surprised at the comments on variable ND filters. I’ve been using one for several years and find it indispensable because of the flexibility to adjust for different exposure times on the fly and the ability to react quickly to changing light. It includes a polarizer that operates separately and is also very helpful. Unfortunately it was pricey…. Maybe you could try a different brand and see if you get better results.
Hi Phil,
Thanks for your thoughts. With a VND, I have had many different ones, including the latest ones with hard stops, as well as the ones that are "10 filters in one" from freewell and polarpro.
The older VNDs were just marketed badly as the saviour for all, instead of like you said, one that can cover a few different options with the ability to change it quickly.
The downside to VNDs is that as they use two separate bits of polarised glass, when you turn them, they do show a level of polarisation in your frame; if where you want the exposure to be is not where you want the polarisation to be, I've found this to be annoying. This is why I prefer fixed NDs... and with the three primary settings in your camera, it is pretty easy to dial in the settings you want quickly.
It is great to hear you get on with them though. Out of interest, which brand do you have, and does it have hard stops built in to it?
@@mikesphotography It's a Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo, which does not have hard stops. I prefer to turn the filter to change exposure and generally keep the exposure, aperture, and ISO constant. Polarization only seems to occur when adjusting the actual polarizer, not when adjusting the ND filter. The live view histogram on my DSLR has been pretty good at predicting the actual results, even with up to a 30 second exposure.
Oh jeez I didn't know about lower fstops than f16!.. Thanks! :D
Great video. Thank you
Hi mike, did you take images of the bluebells at Precipice walk ?
Hi Tim, I did, but by the time I had finished filming this one, the light had gone.
I am hoping to get up there at the weekend as they were looking great earlier in the week. Now this may sound like a dumb question, but as it is my first proper spring in the uk for about 8 years (after living abroad), how long do the bluebells stick around for?
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Around April may mike and try get up there early you might get some mist of the lake.
Thanks Tim! 😁👍
what brand magnetic filter do you use? How do you calculate the time? 30 seconds = -2 and 2mn=0,00 ? Nad what pouch for filter is that?
Sorry, I didn't make that as clear as I should have.
at 30 seconds, it was 2 stops under exposed, so I had to add 2 stops of light.
so for 1 stop, double 30 seconds to 60 seconds (1minute) and then for second stop, double 60 seconds to 120 seconds (2 minutes).
Does that make sense.
I use the freewell magnetic filters, they are great and don't have any noticeable colour casts in them. Here's the link to the 10 stop: geni.us/Freewell10stopND
Thanks for watching 😁👍
What filter do u use?
Excellent video.
Great video ... thanks
Thank you
If use 10stop filter and then compensate that with aperture I need to use bulb mode for shutter release so its changing anyway but not 10 stop more then that what’s the solution
Get a shutter realae cable with a timer on it, calculate the exposure needed and then test and repeat. 👍
@@mikesphotography thanks for reply and advise I’ll do it and get back to you if any issue thanks again
Stacking nd filters - good or bad?
It all depends on the quality you are using.
I have stacked them in the past and had some good results. The best way to find out is to take a photo without the filter, and then shoot through one and then two filters to see if there is any loss in quality.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Have you had much success taking shots of busy locations and trying to rub out the tourists?
I had a play, while on holiday once, but I don't think I kept the shutter open long enough. I was probably fighting a losing battle in the Mediterranean midday sun.
Hey Frank,
Yes, I've done a few in Dubai and also in Petra, in Jordan.
I sometimes use long exposures ... but then there is always that one person that stands still for the whole time and messes up the whole shot!! 😆
When this happens, I just wait for them to move and then get another shot so I can blend them together. Although, when they are really small in the frame, photoshop does a great job of getting rid of them.
As always thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography How long would you have had to keep the shutter open in such bright conditions?
I could stack a 6 stop and 10 stop for reeeeeeeaaaaallllyyy sllllooooowwwww shutter speeds.
That lens being taken off and popped on the grass gave me heartburn and made my left eye twitch. 😂
Haha!! I was wondering who would comment on that first!!
😆😆😆
I have to admit, when there is a fleeting bit of light and I'm running around trying to get the best shot before it's gone, I do this a lot... I end up having to clear everything back up once done!
Maybe I'm a bit too wreckless for photography...🤔😆🤦🏻♂️
why does my xt5 stop and not work when i try to get long exposer photograph????
5:32 where is it???
That is on the northern end of Tywyn beach in mid wales. 👍
Darn that app is not available for the newer versions of android 😢
I love long exposures. I use both ND filters and my OM-1. My OM-1 and EM-!X have live ND that uses AI to make long exposures.
I hear the Olympus cameras are fantastic with the live view function for long exposures!!
They are a fun way to capture landscapes aren't they!!
As always thanks for watching 😁👍
Just pick this video up even if it is a year old, simple and helpful. What about a variable ND filter? I know you said try and avoid ‘cheap’ filters, but would inexpensive ones at least help you learn how they work?
Some of the VNDs with hard stops are good, but expensive, but if you can find one that works for you than that is all good.
I just think that having a few fixes NDs is better than a variable ND.
Thanks for watching 👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks for your reply. I will take your advice on board for sure. Cheers
👍
NICE...
Thanks!
If anyone can answer this it would be outstanding as finding an explanation has been a challenge.
Question: What is the limitation of a typical smartphone @ 24fps/exp 1/48th where a light emitting object in motion would cause a long exposure effect similar to cars on a road with the trail of light?
In other words, the object travels a substantial distance during the 1/48th exposure time where just a trail is captured.
Question 2: Can a minimum measurement of speed of this object be estimated by an answer to the first question?
You would need to know one other element to get the speed, and that is the distance. Once you know the time of the exposure and the distance travelled, then you would be able to work out the speed. Likewise, if you knew the speed, and the exposure time, you would then be able to work out the distance travelled.
This is why a lot of speed cameras have dashed lines on the floor where they take the photographs. Obviously they need sharp images to get the registration plates, so the shutter speeds are really short, but in taking two shots with a predetermined time between the two shots, and the lines giving the distance, this gives two parts to the equation enabling you to work out the speed. time x distance = speed.
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This was very useful! Good to know you must put it on manual and add one extra minute for each step the image is underexposed. Will you have a big give-away when you pass 100.000 subscribers? Maybe you can give away your new Tamron 50-400 mm? I drivel for that🙂
Haha!! If I was a rich man I would ... unfortunately TH-cam doesn't pay that well ... 😫🙈 ... I am planning something though. 😀
Ah, so I didn't explain that properly.
When it is under exposed, you need to add one stop of light for each step, and it works on a logarithmic scale.
So in the example I gave, it went from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, because to add one stop to a 30 second exposure, you double that to 60 seconds (one minute), and then double it again, so 60 seconds x2, giving two minutes.
If you needed to add another stop of light, you would have to double that once again, so 4 minutes, and then another stop would be 8 minutes. so every time you add a stop of light, you have to double the exposure time.
Does that make sense?
@@mikesphotography I'll see another morning I slept better, if I can grabb it? Hope you soon reach 1 million subscribers, and that you'll consider giving away that lens then🙂
Wow he kept the lense on the ground !!! I would never ever do that....
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Are you still exposing your long exposure photography? This must be the longest exposure of all times, 7 months! Did you put on an ND 1000 filter?
"stop down f16"... Why are you ruining your own image quality?
Good lenses work perfectly fine at f16... only the cheaper lenses really have a problem at that aperture, and you'll have more in focus from front to back.
@@mikesphotography I would argue about it, but certainty sensor resolution can hide the diffraction effect, focus depth is valid reason.
‘Pro” version in your thumbnail is not long exposure. Why do TH-camrs lie so much?
Lol. So from looking at an image you can definitively tell how long the exposure was?
For that shot it was about 25 seconds, but you probably won't believe me as I'm a "youtuber" ...
Another to the point video, thank you very much, Mike!
No worries Martin, thanks for watching! 😃