Purchased Danish oil to use on a mid century modern headboard from Habitat. I would like to lightly spruce up its hand rubbed finish feel. Everything that I have read says to sand off all finish before applying, which I really do not want to do! It will ruin the cane insert and the maple and pecan woods' look.. Would I be able to lightly sand with extremely fine paper and then do one very light application?
@@dlsdyer9071 if the piece has a finish (other than oil) I would say you have to sand oof all finish first. Because the finish seals off the wood and the oil is designed to be absorbed by the wood to get those beautiful warm tones and vibrant wood colors. But if it's finished, as I said, the wood is sealed and won't absorb bany of the oil. And if you just lightly sand it the finish will come off in some areas maybe and if you apply oil over it it will absorb in some areas and turn out very blotchy...
Love the fact you got right into the subject without dragging other stuff that was irrelevant into it. Thanks you for all this useful imformation.Your representation was great 👍
My biggest learning was allowing the paint 2 weeks to fully cure before using. I painted a bookshelf and made the mistake of putting books on it after only a few days, and the books left marks.
I found that when removing painters tape, use a hairdryer on a medium heat for a few seconds & it softens the glue on the tape & i'm less likely to remove paint with it. Can work on stickers too when the kids stuck them to their bedroom furniture.
Zinsser Bullseye Shellac, yellow can. Nothing bleeds through that and your chalk paint can go right over it. Always always shellac to prevent bleed through
As far as I'm aware, the yellowing issue caused by varnish comes from choosing an oil-based varnish rather than an acrylic one. That being said, Minwax Polycrylic is kind of an exception to that in a bad way for furniture painters. I haven't ever used it, but I've heard very mixed things from those who have. It even says in its description online that it's best applied over light wood stains, in which yellowing wouldn't really be as noticeable. So going off that, it doesn't really appear to be intended for use over painted furniture projects, despite what you might hear around the web. It probably isn't the only one of its kind, either. A good portion of varnishes/urethanes found at hardware stores are likely meant to be used over a wood stain, not paint, even if they are water-based. I'd always read all product labels thoroughly for any mentions of non-yellowing properties and try to find reviews online from people using the product over latex/water-based paint specifically. If you're working on a smaller painted project, an artist-grade, water-based varnish from Liquitex or Golden should do the trick and is sold in smaller sizes. If you're looking to paint a lot of projects/have a need for something sold in bigger sizes, General Finishes is an all-around solid brand with varnishes that have proven results over painted furniture. Source: I've worked in a fine arts store for about 4 years :)
I bought one that said non yellowing rustoleum painter's touch ultra cover two times clear gloss, non yellowing, UV resistant, seals protects and revitalize.
Thank you for the tips on how to avoid brush strokes! Using a chalk paint on a small project and between each coat, I was lightly sanding. Your tip to add water worked perfectly!!
I never thought spray painting would be that difficult until I painted a series of displays to showcase my photography at a variety of shops. It was the middle of winter in MI, so I was forced to use the basement ~ what a mess! Since then I’ve been saving large boxes from deliveries to use as outdoor spray booths, thank you so much for sharing all of your info, hoping I can find a booth like yours!
Thank you for so many valuable tips for furniture painting. You just made my life a LOT easier! I am so glad that I subscribed to your channel. A painting trick I like to use is to put my furniture pieces on four bricks (one per leg) so I can reach the lowest part of the leg all the way down...not under the foot, just right up to it.
Thanks for this video. I've made most of these mistakes and now that I have stopped flipping properties and gone on to furniture it is much more attention to detail then ever before. Also I love your presentation, cheerful, helpful, and friendly. I had to stop watching other vids because of monotone voices I just couldn't take anymore! LOL Looking forward to more. (If you are going to recommend SIMPLE GREEN please mention it is TOXIC to pets. A beloved pet of mine came very close to dying after one sniff. Chemical burn was the diagnosis and cortisone saved his life. His throat swelled shut. Thanks.)
@@t.terrell7037 Wet & Dry sand paper is ideal because it will stop the paper from clogging. Wet the surface with water then rub the sandpaper with a solid bar of soap. I would start with around 180 grit, go down to 120 if it's taking too long but then always go up through your grits lightly and finish with 220 to take out any deep scratches. The trick is to try a "hover" over the drip sanding just the high spots and not the surrounding area, hence using a sanding block.
Holly Molly!! How is it that ytube pops up with the videos i need at the time i need them🙉It just Blows my mind! Thank you soo much!! Im actually on a kitchen project n im catching my mistakes as i go. Its my first time n praying the wood trims dont bleed through everytime i start one. It's tedious yet so soothing!! Many hellos from Chicago!
Yeah, how is it that youtube sometimes provides such strangely perfectly-timed recommendations? I wonder if they are spying on us through our phones...
I’m just over halfway through your video and had to pause to take a moment & say THANK YOU! All your preparation and testing is so inspiring. Never can be too careful, especially with sentimental pieces. knowing all that about different top coats is pivotal. Going to subscribe as soon as I post this, I am very much looking forward to binging more of your channel! 💓
My problem is knowing which sandpaper grit to use for which project and for each step of the project. I understand that some are coarser and others fine but I still have a hard time knowing how coarse to go or how fine. Thank you so much for the video and guide!!
The smaller the number the coarser the grit. 40-80 is a ROUGH teardown grit. 100-150 is usually the building blocks to getting to the finished stage. 200-400 will buff and shine. Depending on whether you are sanding wood go with the 100-150. Sanding for a finish over paint or stains, go 220.
I just completed my first furniture painting project. I used Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. That paint is thick! I kept my brush wet to help spread it out but I struggled with it. I still need more practice to get better at this. Now I am looking for items that have been thrown out to practice on!
Did you also use a spray bottle and spritz several shots into the paint before you started? If you put your paint into another container and first coat spray a good 5 or 6 shots into that jar to start and then spray the brush occasionally. The second coat even more sprays into your paint 12 to 15 will be good. Always remember whether using spray rattle cans or a brush go with several coats rather then 1 or 2 thick coats. Remember to properly start off by cleaning well primer ect will make each step that much better. Check out Shabby Guy he's pretty good at both explaining and showing how and why he does things. He also shows what products he is using and why he has chosen them think you'll enjoy the channel.
@@AlexBabcock-hw9iz Thanks for all this very helpful information Chris! I will do this for my next project. I have just subscribed to the Shabby Guy channel. Thanks again.
Finally, I found a video that gives details I need in a logical order that makes sense and presentation is easily understood. Thank you. I am now a subscriber. Look forward to learning more from you.
This video came at the perfect time! My husband and I have decided to try our hand at refurbishing thrifted items and these tips have definitely helped! (I repainted a furniture set last month and...so...many....mistakes😄)
I just started new projects myself, with spray paint, saw your little ‘gadget’ attached to your spray can, so now imma get one! Weekend project woohoo! I’m grateful I saw this, coz I’m 65 now and my grip ‘ain’t what she used to be’ so that will help greatly!!! Gosh, guess it’s time to walk back into a regular hardware store-you remember’personal service’ don’t you? Always helpful, and I’ll even ask other customers have you done this? Always eager to share tips! Now, my fave color is vivid jewel tone TURQOISE, but HONEY THAT RED DESK WAS OUTSTANDINGLY GORGEOUS!!!! Thanks for all you share and do! BLESSINGS OF LOVE HEALTH AND JOY🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻❤️❤️❤️🌹🌹🌹
Thank you so much, Serena! I'm new to the furniture flipping gig and I am in the learning stages. I'm using chalk paint but like you I am not a fan of brush strokes. Thank you for the tip!
Thank you for the information! Was thinking about redoing a small piece, but wasn't feeling confident in my knowledge and skills. You cleared up a few things for me!
I have done furniture for over 40 years and yes them 10 things and so much more will happen to you like you don't expect it but there it is you done a wonderful job I love the desk and I love the little red thing that is awesome
Very useful. Thanks! To add to the yellowing of things discussion. I'm a complete beginner here and working up to painting our garage. (Yikes!) Anyway, another mention of yellowing I got was from a company that sells original recipe linseed oil paint that said "Linseed oil paint yellows in dark area or in contact with chemicals such as cleaning products with a high pH, some beauty sprays, chemical paint strippers, and caustic substances. There is also a risk when painting in enclosed areas with plastic paints." After everything I've read, I think your advice to use same-brand products or just follow directions is the best advice for most. There is a lot of chemistry to sort through and paint manufacturers do not make it easy to know exactly what is in their products to sort out combinations that work by any way other than experimenting. But if you post more on this topic, I for one would be interested. Cheers.
Hiya--a few important things to add to your list: If you add water to paint, it lightens the paint. You need to pay attention to the ratio you used, otherwise your colour will be off the next time you mix paint for the same project, or for touch-ups. Secondly, watch out for lumps and brush hairs as you paint, and remove them immediately as you go along. Finally, use a brush for fine areas like edges and moulding and such, and a small 4" roller for flat surfaces. You can do a light roller pass over the areas where you used a brush. That way, it all but eliminates brush strokes. Oh, a couple more things--pass your roller lightly over an adhesive lint sheet, or a strip of masking tape to take off lint before you start painting. Consider straining old paint through a cheese cloth, or whatever, before you start your painting. You'll thank yourself later.
So funny life is!!!!! I just finished painting outside stucco n shutters & all inside of our house. Would u believe had almost every sample u demoed happen!!!!!!!! And now I fine ur channel. Gezzzz......”LoL”🙃 Well guess better late than never. Thanks for great tips.
Great video. Only issue I have is one of your tips on paint with too much water making it run. The tip was turning it upside down to let some of the solids mix back in. You should never have unmixed solids in the bottom of a can while painting. All paint needs to be mixed completely before doing any painting at all.
You ARE Canadian! How I did not clue into this before is beyond me. Between some of the paint brands you used and the spelling of colour, I had a lightbulb moment, lol! Great post (as always)! I am going to go and get one of those turntable things for sure!
I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE, to paint and I must say you gave excellent advice. Love your video and your boys are handsome young men. God bless you and your beautiful family.
I absolutely love this video. I’ve just finished chalk, painting of a dining room table and the paint that I bought, which was chalk paint and it is called John stones chalk paint, revive and I live in the UK, so you may not have heard of it. This is my first time doing chalk paint and I basically wanted it to be totally covered all over not during the bit where you sandpaper sections off to make it look like it has aged. The dining room table was practically sanded down but I did a little bit more sanding, so the paint could stick to it. The chalk paint stated that you would only need to apply this paint not a primer and then just apply furniture wax after you have finished painting your product which is what I did, but within a matter of three hours of finishing it and a day of starting to use our dining room table the paint we are starting to chip off very easily and I don’t know what to do as I followed the instructions on the tin and so now I am never doing another project again, but if you have any help on how I can fix this it would be much appreciated.
18:23 thank you so much for posting this video! You’ve covered a lot of important things to think about when refinishing a project. I’m definitely going to refer to your video when I run into issues. In fact, just today I “ran across” 3 videos that covered stains and tannins bleed-through! I’m taking note as instructions needed on my upcoming piece 😊
When I use thick paint..I have a cup of water along along with a cup of paint..and when I start seeing the paint get thicker and see paint brush lines ….I dip my brush …the very tip into the water and run it over what I just painted that usually removes and smooth out any lines…. there are all kinds of techniques and tricks to learn it just takes practice and working with lots of different paint and brushes….love this hobby
Great tip, Caren! Yes, painting and DIY is SO much fun! I have been enjoying learning to use some newer power tools that I just invested in. It's so much fun, isn't it?! :) Thanks for commenting!
Great tips! I have never painted furniture. I have a round side table that was my grandfather’s. The top was damaged by rain by an open window years ago when my mother had it. I want to paint it for out on our lanai. These tips will help. Thank you!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!I wish I had this to watch before I started projects-hit or miss,Mostly missed, So informative and you laid it out perfectly to understand as a beginer-Now a beginer agin on a better road to success! Going to check your other videos TY again-
Glad I could help!! :) Some people say poly doesn't turn their project yellow but for me, yes it does. You can always test a small area in the back or under, if you wanted to see how the results will be. Or better yet, do a test board first!
Wow, thank you so much. I’m starting my first project today, & I’m super excited. I’m going to paint an old wooden picnic table that will remain outside. I’m just trying to figure out the step by step process to take so that when I’m finished my painting on the table, it won’t get ruined if it rains for example. Thanks for your help!
I have to paint my front porch railings. Is all natural, never been painted before. Worse part is, finding the right primer and paint for the wood, because is very hard wood, from Brazil. Not sure if the white paint will stick on it. It's been weathered for about 10 years, now is gray color. Any suggestions which primer will be the best for the project? Thanks!
Great 👍Prepping on any object you paint is your best friend…. I was a professional car painter for Ford motor company ..if you’re prepping is poorly done …your final paint shows it…
Wow, that's awesome! I have thought about how fun it would be to DIY a car's paint job! Something fun and pretty! LOL. What would that process involve, I have no idea. But, I mean, if we enjoy painting furniture, I can't see why we wouldn't involve painting cars! I would love a pink car, and NOT a "Mary Kay" pink. I'm talking bubblegum pink! LOL
Thank you for this I've learned quite a bit for me I use melamine paint furniture and cupboard paint for just the top of any furniture that I know that I'll be using and the rest I'll be using semi-gloss latex paint.. you're welcome. ☺️❤️. My biggest pet peeve is when I painted something white and yellow comes up yes that's called bleeding lesson learned also warning giving you all the heads up do not use varathane spray it'll turn your white furniture yellow!! I had a heart attack when that happened I had to do it all over again repaint it.. make sure when you use spray everything or any kind of protectant make sure it's non yellowing.
Ugh, yellowing is the worst! Using a furniture stripper/neutralizer first could help but some top coats just yellow. Decorative painter's brands tend not to yellow. If you want to try something new, I'm a big fan of Modern Masters Dead Flat and any sheen by Faux Like A Pro. Both have high quality top coats (water based) and lots of other great products. Not affiliated, just used them for years & love them! You should do a refinishing video now for your example piece!
I think temperature matters with paint thickness too - if the item you are painting is warm or you paint in direct sunlight. I’ve had this. I felt the paint yellowing one - I hand painted a pot and when I sealed it it turned yellow 🥺. We learn! Thanks for the tips and I really appreciate that you show examples of each situation. Really useful! A problem I have is blending colours to make a piece multitonal. Maybe if I add more water.
I don't know if I agree with everything you say. I'm 60 years old and I've been painting things since I was 12. No one showed me how to paint right or wrong. I learned by trial and error and never have I only stuck my paintbrush in the paint 1 in LOL And I usually shake the heck out of a small container of paint so I've never needed to add water. And nowadays, most diy'ers have a drill, so, if you're going to be buying paint you should have a paint mixer you can get the bottom of your paint loosened. As for drip marks, everyone needs to learn by trial and error. It's good to have a practice board. Temperature plays a part in this as well. I'm glad you give examples of what beginners would be doing but I really hope you don't do that now and that's why you think we might be doing it too LOL
Just as an FYI, WATER-based polycrylic is perfectly fine to use and will not yellow over time. It’s the OIL-based polycrylics that yellow almost instantly. A lot of furniture restorers on YT use chalk paint and Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic specifically to avoid this problem. Just thought I’d mention this, in case not everyone realized there were two different kinds of polycrylic! 😀
@@ThriftDiving What happens is when you add the water based poly, it will pull the wood tannins up and that's what causes the yellowing. If you prime with a oil based or shellac, the water based poly won't yellow 💛
I'm usually asking myself about stripping the old paint, and taking it down to the bare wood. I was hoping you'd mention an 'always' or 'if' rule to follow. Any direction is helpful at this point, as I didn't start the project yet.
If its peeling, take back to bare wood If its greasy or waxy take back to bare wood If its patchy take back to bare wood f you don't take back to bare wood there is always a chance it will peel no matter how much prep you have done.
If you are a rookie at flipping furniture those are the safest rules, if you are advanced or a pro absolutely not. One must always access the condition and chemical composition of what the furniture has on it combined with what is the look and finish because most of the times the pre existing paint or varnish layers serve as sealer to the wood itself so you don't need to bare strip or to apply undercoating and plus it will add dept and character to the finished look you desire. Most people don't realize there is a chemical world of rules that apply to the paint trade, you can't mix nor paint over oil based with water based, they just don't get along and you get peals and blisters or the paint just simply doesn't adhere in the worst case scenario. Synthetics, acrylics, cellulose, enamels, shellac, wax... there is a bunch of divorce and marriage rules you must know to get the job well done and solid.
These tips are great!! I was always afraid of repainting perfectly smooth furniture abcaise I thought I could never get them to look doo at the and and would be devastated it it was full of brushstrokes and drips and I had spend so much time and effort and made it all worse in the end🙈 but maybe I'll try something small and hopefully get the confidence to paint bigger pieces too! (got a big dresser that I love but it's in horrible condition and has waterstains all over it (there's an aqaurium on top) and I would love to refinish it someday!!
Thank you for sharing this ❤️ very helpful! I was just thinking about you the other day! I love seeing what your different projects are and what your working on!!!
I'm Fairly new to this but these tips were absolutely amazing and helpful. Thank you so much. I need all the tips I can get. I'm redoing furniture for my teenage daughters bedroom as a surprise for her when she gets home from her summer trip. I'm so nervous. I hope it all comes out. I'm redoing a jewelry armoire, make up vanity and dresser that I picked up at yard sales. Wish me luck. Thanks again for the great tips
****Download my free furniture painting guide when you sign up for my blog here! thrift-diving.ck.page/55265f69ed
Purchased Danish oil to use on a mid century modern headboard from Habitat. I would like to lightly spruce up its hand rubbed finish feel. Everything that I have read says to sand off all finish before applying, which I really do not want to do! It will ruin the cane insert and the maple and pecan woods' look.. Would I be able to lightly sand with extremely fine paper and then do one very light application?
Well thank you girl for so valuate advices, really soooo helpful. Good to see you again🤗😊😊💐
@@dlsdyer9071 if the piece has a finish (other than oil) I would say you have to sand oof all finish first. Because the finish seals off the wood and the oil is designed to be absorbed by the wood to get those beautiful warm tones and vibrant wood colors. But if it's finished, as I said, the wood is sealed and won't absorb bany of the oil. And if you just lightly sand it the finish will come off in some areas maybe and if you apply oil over it it will absorb in some areas and turn out very blotchy...
___f
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Love the fact you got right into the subject without dragging other stuff that was irrelevant into it. Thanks you for all this useful imformation.Your representation was great 👍
Bump!
My biggest learning was allowing the paint 2 weeks to fully cure before using.
I painted a bookshelf and made the mistake of putting books on it after only a few days, and the books left marks.
Is there a fix for faster drying? Bathroom vanity tackiness is still a problem!🤔
@@Thankful305 nothing but time. If it's still tacky after a while you may need to redo it as something went wrong.
I found that when removing painters tape, use a hairdryer on a medium heat for a few seconds & it softens the glue on the tape & i'm less likely to remove paint with it. Can work on stickers too when the kids stuck them to their bedroom furniture.
Awesome info!!! Thank you!
Good to know!! My kid sticks stickers everywhere 🤪
@@ingramwifey2016 I've heard WD40 works for those too, but haven't tried it
GREAT TIP! Thanks so much for sharing! 👍😁❤
And new windows that have stickers too. Works great!
Great video. Clear intro and summary, no annoying background music, good close-ups, nicely paced. Perfect. And really useful! Thanks.
Aww, thanks so much, Eden!! I appreciate that you like the simplicity and usefulness of my videos. :) Means a lot!
I appreciated no music too!
Zinsser Bullseye Shellac, yellow can. Nothing bleeds through that and your chalk paint can go right over it. Always always shellac to prevent bleed through
As far as I'm aware, the yellowing issue caused by varnish comes from choosing an oil-based varnish rather than an acrylic one. That being said, Minwax Polycrylic is kind of an exception to that in a bad way for furniture painters. I haven't ever used it, but I've heard very mixed things from those who have. It even says in its description online that it's best applied over light wood stains, in which yellowing wouldn't really be as noticeable. So going off that, it doesn't really appear to be intended for use over painted furniture projects, despite what you might hear around the web. It probably isn't the only one of its kind, either. A good portion of varnishes/urethanes found at hardware stores are likely meant to be used over a wood stain, not paint, even if they are water-based. I'd always read all product labels thoroughly for any mentions of non-yellowing properties and try to find reviews online from people using the product over latex/water-based paint specifically. If you're working on a smaller painted project, an artist-grade, water-based varnish from Liquitex or Golden should do the trick and is sold in smaller sizes. If you're looking to paint a lot of projects/have a need for something sold in bigger sizes, General Finishes is an all-around solid brand with varnishes that have proven results over painted furniture.
Source: I've worked in a fine arts store for about 4 years :)
YESSS😬 THAT'S WHAT HAPPENED TO ME.. but I made sure this time I bought one that said non yellowing.
I bought one that said non yellowing rustoleum painter's touch ultra cover two times clear gloss, non yellowing, UV resistant, seals protects and revitalize.
Thank you for the tips on how to avoid brush strokes! Using a chalk paint on a small project and between each coat, I was lightly sanding. Your tip to add water worked perfectly!!
I never thought spray painting would be that difficult until I painted a series of displays to showcase my photography at a variety of shops. It was the middle of winter in MI, so I was forced to use the basement ~ what a mess! Since then I’ve been saving large boxes from deliveries to use as outdoor spray booths, thank you so much for sharing all of your info, hoping I can find a booth like yours!
*God bless you* for the list and timestamps in the description 👌👍💪
You're welcome!!
Right One of the reasons I subscribed was bc of the stamps. Greatly appreciated
@@HappySmiles2Day You're welcome!! I'll try to do this on more videos!
Thank you for so many valuable tips for furniture painting. You just made my life a LOT easier! I am so glad that I subscribed to your channel. A painting trick I like to use is to put my furniture pieces on four bricks (one per leg) so I can reach the lowest part of the leg all the way down...not under the foot, just right up to it.
Ty I am about to paint furniture for the first time. So glad I watched this before starting my project
Thanks for this video. I've made most of these mistakes and now that I have stopped flipping properties and gone on to furniture it is much more attention to detail then ever before. Also I love your presentation, cheerful, helpful, and friendly. I had to stop watching other vids because of monotone voices I just couldn't take anymore! LOL Looking forward to more. (If you are going to recommend SIMPLE GREEN please mention it is TOXIC to pets. A beloved pet of mine came very close to dying after one sniff. Chemical burn was the diagnosis and cortisone saved his life. His throat swelled shut. Thanks.)
To correctly sand back drips use a sanding block, this will remove the drips faster and make it flatter. Same goes for sanding down filler.
Thanks for the tip!
Is a specific size and grit needed for the sanding block or just any kind? Thanks
@@t.terrell7037 Wet & Dry sand paper is ideal because it will stop the paper from clogging. Wet the surface with water then rub the sandpaper with a solid bar of soap. I would start with around 180 grit, go down to 120 if it's taking too long but then always go up through your grits lightly and finish with 220 to take out any deep scratches. The trick is to try a "hover" over the drip sanding just the high spots and not the surrounding area, hence using a sanding block.
and for gods sake go with the grain!
Holly Molly!! How is it that ytube pops up with the videos i need at the time i need them🙉It just Blows my mind! Thank you soo much!! Im actually on a kitchen project n im catching my mistakes as i go. Its my first time n praying the wood trims dont bleed through everytime i start one. It's tedious yet so soothing!! Many hellos from Chicago!
Yeah, how is it that youtube sometimes provides such strangely perfectly-timed recommendations? I wonder if they are spying on us through our phones...
I’m just over halfway through your video and had to pause to take a moment & say THANK YOU! All your preparation and testing is so inspiring. Never can be too careful, especially with sentimental pieces. knowing all that about different top coats is pivotal. Going to subscribe as soon as I post this, I am very much looking forward to binging more of your channel! 💓
I appreciate your comment, Emily! Glad I am able to be helpful! ❤️
My problem is knowing which sandpaper grit to use for which project and for each step of the project. I understand that some are coarser and others fine but I still have a hard time knowing how coarse to go or how fine. Thank you so much for the video and guide!!
The smaller the number the coarser the grit. 40-80 is a ROUGH teardown grit. 100-150 is usually the building blocks to getting to the finished stage. 200-400 will buff and shine. Depending on whether you are sanding wood go with the 100-150. Sanding for a finish over paint or stains, go 220.
@@LegendaryGoetz Thank you!!
I just completed my first furniture painting project. I used Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. That paint is thick! I kept my brush wet to help spread it out but I struggled with it. I still need more practice to get better at this. Now I am looking for items that have been thrown out to practice on!
Did you also use a spray bottle and spritz several shots into the paint before you started? If you put your paint into another container and first coat spray a good 5 or 6 shots into that jar to start and then spray the brush occasionally. The second coat even more sprays into your paint 12 to 15 will be good. Always remember whether using spray rattle cans or a brush go with several coats rather then 1 or 2 thick coats. Remember to properly start off by cleaning well primer ect will make each step that much better. Check out Shabby Guy he's pretty good at both explaining and showing how and why he does things. He also shows what products he is using and why he has chosen them think you'll enjoy the channel.
@@AlexBabcock-hw9iz Thanks for all this very helpful information Chris! I will do this for my next project. I have just subscribed to the Shabby Guy channel. Thanks again.
I love it when Oak bleeds yellow when I am flipping furniture for a client. The pink stain is crazy. Great video!
Thank you so much. Some of those things are why I procrastinate painting projects. I appreciate your video.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I’m new at this and you’re a wealth of knowledge!!!
This video was amazing. Very helpful and I was entertained all the way through. The timing, the pacing, the editing---thank you!!
Watching this has given me the confidence to have a go at upcycling some of my old furniture. Thanks.
You can do it!! :)
Thank you sooooo much for the timestamp and list thing! I know other people have said it but goodness is it ever useful!
Glad to hear you like it! I will be sure to use it more going forward so you can skip around! :) Thanks!!
Just what i needed. I'm a newbie at painting furniture and you have taken away a lot of my fear! Thank you!
Glad I could help!!
Finally, I found a video that gives details I need in a logical order that makes sense and presentation is easily understood. Thank you. I am now a subscriber. Look forward to learning more from you.
This video came at the perfect time! My husband and I have decided to try our hand at refurbishing thrifted items and these tips have definitely helped! (I repainted a furniture set last month and...so...many....mistakes😄)
I just started new projects myself, with spray paint, saw your little ‘gadget’ attached to your spray can, so now imma get one! Weekend project woohoo! I’m grateful I saw this, coz I’m 65 now and my grip ‘ain’t what she used to be’ so that will help greatly!!! Gosh, guess it’s time to walk back into a regular hardware store-you remember’personal service’ don’t you? Always helpful, and I’ll even ask other customers have you done this? Always eager to share tips! Now, my fave color is vivid jewel tone TURQOISE, but HONEY THAT RED DESK WAS OUTSTANDINGLY GORGEOUS!!!! Thanks for all you share and do! BLESSINGS OF LOVE HEALTH AND JOY🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻❤️❤️❤️🌹🌹🌹
Thank you so much, Serena! I'm new to the furniture flipping gig and I am in the learning stages. I'm using chalk paint but like you I am not a fan of brush strokes. Thank you for the tip!
Love (and what I needed) the information! I’ll be painting my kitchen cabinets next month and definitely will use your tips. Thanks!!
Thank you for the information! Was thinking about redoing a small piece, but wasn't feeling confident in my knowledge and skills. You cleared up a few things for me!
I have done furniture for over 40 years and yes them 10 things and so much more will happen to you like you don't expect it but there it is you done a wonderful job I love the desk and I love the little red thing that is awesome
Super informative YT clip today. Love your channel its so beautifully filmed. Cheers for info on preventing bleed thru.
I love the lazy susan idea!! Thank you for the idea and instructions. Your video is very informative and helpful.
Very useful. Thanks! To add to the yellowing of things discussion. I'm a complete beginner here and working up to painting our garage. (Yikes!) Anyway, another mention of yellowing I got was from a company that sells original recipe linseed oil paint that said "Linseed oil paint yellows in dark area or in contact with chemicals such as cleaning products with a high pH, some beauty sprays, chemical paint strippers, and caustic substances. There is also a risk when painting in enclosed areas with plastic paints." After everything I've read, I think your advice to use same-brand products or just follow directions is the best advice for most. There is a lot of chemistry to sort through and paint manufacturers do not make it easy to know exactly what is in their products to sort out combinations that work by any way other than experimenting. But if you post more on this topic, I for one would be interested. Cheers.
Great teaching explanation , I was engaged into the tone of your voice and I didn`t skip through. Nice tips!!!
Great tip on the white paint. Never thought to use the brand sealer. Thank you!
Hi, Serena! My biggest problem, apart from choice of colour, is procrastination! Great tips, thank you! Kind regards from Penny in Liverpool 🇬🇧😊💕
Hiya--a few important things to add to your list: If you add water to paint, it lightens the paint. You need to pay attention to the ratio you used, otherwise your colour will be off the next time you mix paint for the same project, or for touch-ups. Secondly, watch out for lumps and brush hairs as you paint, and remove them immediately as you go along. Finally, use a brush for fine areas like edges and moulding and such, and a small 4" roller for flat surfaces. You can do a light roller pass over the areas where you used a brush. That way, it all but eliminates brush strokes. Oh, a couple more things--pass your roller lightly over an adhesive lint sheet, or a strip of masking tape to take off lint before you start painting. Consider straining old paint through a cheese cloth, or whatever, before you start your painting. You'll thank yourself later.
Wow, so many good tips! Thank you! I'll be sure to include these in the blog post so that people don't miss them. :)
@@ThriftDiving You're very welcome.
Lov love love the foam roller! Gives such a smooth professional finish.
I love your videos and have missed them. Your French desk is still my dream desk. Great video-as always!!
So funny life is!!!!! I just finished painting outside stucco n shutters & all inside of our house.
Would u believe had almost every sample u demoed happen!!!!!!!! And now I fine ur channel. Gezzzz......”LoL”🙃
Well guess better late than never. Thanks for great tips.
I love how you laid out a TOC in your description! Great video.
Thank you! Your valuable information will help me with my project. Never painted wood furniture before.
Great video. Only issue I have is one of your tips on paint with too much water making it run. The tip was turning it upside down to let some of the solids mix back in. You should never have unmixed solids in the bottom of a can while painting. All paint needs to be mixed completely before doing any painting at all.
I just started painting on Saturday. You covered my problems. Thank you.
Great tip about the sealer. I coated my baseboards with polyacrylic. What a nightmare.
What a good idea using a old tent for a spray area
That's actually a spray tent made specifically for painting! You can find it here on Amazon (affiliate link): amzn.to/3iphzti
You ARE Canadian! How I did not clue into this before is beyond me. Between some of the paint brands you used and the spelling of colour, I had a lightbulb moment, lol! Great post (as always)! I am going to go and get one of those turntable things for sure!
I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE, to paint and I must say you gave excellent advice. Love your video and your boys are handsome young men. God bless you and your beautiful family.
I absolutely love this video. I’ve just finished chalk, painting of a dining room table and the paint that I bought, which was chalk paint and it is called John stones chalk paint, revive and I live in the UK, so you may not have heard of it. This is my first time doing chalk paint and I basically wanted it to be totally covered all over not during the bit where you sandpaper sections off to make it look like it has aged. The dining room table was practically sanded down but I did a little bit more sanding, so the paint could stick to it. The chalk paint stated that you would only need to apply this paint not a primer and then just apply furniture wax after you have finished painting your product which is what I did, but within a matter of three hours of finishing it and a day of starting to use our dining room table the paint we are starting to chip off very easily and I don’t know what to do as I followed the instructions on the tin and so now I am never doing another project again, but if you have any help on how I can fix this it would be much appreciated.
You are a great teacher, I learned a lot, thank you so much!!
Thank you from Greece The video was very helpful !!!!
18:23 thank you so much for posting this video! You’ve covered a lot of important things to think about when refinishing a project. I’m definitely going to refer to your video when I run into issues. In fact, just today I “ran across” 3 videos that covered stains and tannins bleed-through! I’m taking note as instructions needed on my upcoming piece 😊
When I use thick paint..I have a cup of water along along with a cup of paint..and when I start seeing the paint get thicker and see paint brush lines ….I dip my brush …the very tip into the water and run it over what I just painted that usually removes and smooth out any lines…. there are all kinds of techniques and tricks to learn it just takes practice and working with lots of different paint and brushes….love this hobby
Great tip, Caren! Yes, painting and DIY is SO much fun! I have been enjoying learning to use some newer power tools that I just invested in. It's so much fun, isn't it?! :) Thanks for commenting!
Enjoyed the video, very informative. Thanks for the free furniture painting guide!
You are so welcome, Sheila! :)
Great tips! I have never painted furniture. I have a round side table that was my grandfather’s. The top was damaged by rain by an open window years ago when my mother had it. I want to paint it for out on our lanai. These tips will help. Thank you!
Life saving! Struggling with paint drips on wooden door. You solved it so nicely!
Yay! Glad I could help!!
I love your TH-cam channel. I’ve tried quite a few of your projects.
Thank you!!!! You answered some questions I had and a couple I didn't know I had!! Thank you again!!!
What an excellent video chock full of great advice, thanks !!🇦🇺👍🏼
Thank you! You covered EVERY mistake I’ve made!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!I wish I had this to watch before I started projects-hit or miss,Mostly missed, So informative and you laid it out perfectly to understand as a beginer-Now a beginer agin on a better road to success! Going to check your other videos TY again-
This was very helpful, answered reason things happened when I painted. Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍💕😊😊
Glad it was helpful!
@@ThriftDiving is using a small foam sponge roller a bad idea? Thanks for the GREAT video.
I like it, very nice and informative, even for thickheaded
This video probably saved my project. I was thinking I should poly over my white paint for protection but I didn’t think about yellowing.
Glad I could help!! :) Some people say poly doesn't turn their project yellow but for me, yes it does. You can always test a small area in the back or under, if you wanted to see how the results will be. Or better yet, do a test board first!
Wow, thank you so much. I’m starting my first project today, & I’m super excited. I’m going to paint an old wooden picnic table that will remain outside. I’m just trying to figure out the step by step process to take so that when I’m finished my painting on the table, it won’t get ruined if it rains for example. Thanks for your help!
Good luck!
I have to paint my front porch railings. Is all natural, never been painted before. Worse part is, finding the right primer and paint for the wood, because is very hard wood, from Brazil. Not sure if the white paint will stick on it. It's been weathered for about 10 years, now is gray color. Any suggestions which primer will be the best for the project? Thanks!
I just started painting a writing desk, and I can already see the drips and uneven coverage. Your tips will help, thank you!
Wow! Ran across this video just in time!
Getting ready to paint a thrifted secretary so THANK YOU for so many practical and applicable tips!🌟❤️🌟
Thank you for all the great tips... bleeding through was mostly my problem, but ur tips will correct that problem! Thank you so much
Thanks, I learned a lot. Just starting out with upgrading all my hand- me -down furniture
Excellent work sis
Great 👍Prepping on any object you paint is your best friend…. I was a professional car painter for Ford motor company ..if you’re prepping is poorly done …your final paint shows it…
Wow, that's awesome! I have thought about how fun it would be to DIY a car's paint job! Something fun and pretty! LOL. What would that process involve, I have no idea. But, I mean, if we enjoy painting furniture, I can't see why we wouldn't involve painting cars! I would love a pink car, and NOT a "Mary Kay" pink. I'm talking bubblegum pink! LOL
My compliments... This video was very well done and very informative. 👏
Thank you for this I've learned quite a bit for me I use melamine paint furniture and cupboard paint for just the top of any furniture that I know that I'll be using and the rest I'll be using semi-gloss latex paint.. you're welcome. ☺️❤️. My biggest pet peeve is when I painted something white and yellow comes up yes that's called bleeding lesson learned also warning giving you all the heads up do not use varathane spray it'll turn your white furniture yellow!! I had a heart attack when that happened I had to do it all over again repaint it.. make sure when you use spray everything or any kind of protectant make sure it's non yellowing.
Ugh, yellowing is the worst! Using a furniture stripper/neutralizer first could help but some top coats just yellow. Decorative painter's brands tend not to yellow. If you want to try something new, I'm a big fan of Modern Masters Dead Flat and any sheen by Faux Like A Pro. Both have high quality top coats (water based) and lots of other great products. Not affiliated, just used them for years & love them! You should do a refinishing video now for your example piece!
Great tutorial, love your channel! Much love from finland 🇫🇮
Hey Serena! Love all the great tips and informative advice. Stay safe🙂
Thanks so much, Rita!!
I think temperature matters with paint thickness too - if the item you are painting is warm or you paint in direct sunlight. I’ve had this. I felt the paint yellowing one - I hand painted a pot and when I sealed it it turned yellow 🥺. We learn! Thanks for the tips and I really appreciate that you show examples of each situation. Really useful! A problem I have is blending colours to make a piece multitonal. Maybe if I add more water.
Great points about the temperature of paint!!! Yesssss! As for blending, are you trying to blend 2 colors to make custom colors?
I wish you had done this before I painted my dresser. It was a hot mess on the top, but I eventually covered it with marble look contact paper,
That ombre pink dresser was amazing
I don't know if I agree with everything you say. I'm 60 years old and I've been painting things since I was 12. No one showed me how to paint right or wrong. I learned by trial and error and never have I only stuck my paintbrush in the paint 1 in LOL
And I usually shake the heck out of a small container of paint so I've never needed to add water.
And nowadays, most diy'ers have a drill, so, if you're going to be buying paint you should have a paint mixer you can get the bottom of your paint loosened.
As for drip marks, everyone needs to learn by trial and error. It's good to have a practice board. Temperature plays a part in this as well.
I'm glad you give examples of what beginners would be doing but I really hope you don't do that now and that's why you think we might be doing it too LOL
Excellent video and useful tips.
Great tutorial. A good reminder from my days if painting as I am planning some projects soon. Thank you.
Thank you so much h for the free book. At so excited about starting my projects. Serena you have a blessing to me. Again thank thank thank.
Fabulous guide. Answered all my painting problem issues! Thanks so much!
i love tip videos like this! it’s always good to add to your diy brain! ♥️
Very helpful information! Thank you so much. I have a dresser I plan to paint soon and this video is right on time. ⏱
This was very helpful. Very practical advice. I have had all these issues!!!
Just as an FYI, WATER-based polycrylic is perfectly fine to use and will not yellow over time. It’s the OIL-based polycrylics that yellow almost instantly. A lot of furniture restorers on YT use chalk paint and Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic specifically to avoid this problem. Just thought I’d mention this, in case not everyone realized there were two different kinds of polycrylic! 😀
That's what we are led to believe but it's not true over white paint. Even the water-based polycrylic turns yellow over white paint. Sad, but true! :)
@@ThriftDiving What happens is when you add the water based poly, it will pull the wood tannins up and that's what causes the yellowing. If you prime with a oil based or shellac, the water based poly won't yellow 💛
Great video, thank you so much! Doing research into painting furniture and this video has been extremely helpful 😁😁
I'm usually asking myself about stripping the old paint, and taking it down to the bare wood. I was hoping you'd mention an 'always' or 'if' rule to follow. Any direction is helpful at this point, as I didn't start the project yet.
If its peeling, take back to bare wood
If its greasy or waxy take back to bare wood
If its patchy take back to bare wood
f you don't take back to bare wood there is always a chance it will peel no matter how much prep you have done.
If you are a rookie at flipping furniture those are the safest rules, if you are advanced or a pro absolutely not. One must always access the condition and chemical composition of what the furniture has on it combined with what is the look and finish because most of the times the pre existing paint or varnish layers serve as sealer to the wood itself so you don't need to bare strip or to apply undercoating and plus it will add dept and character to the finished look you desire. Most people don't realize there is a chemical world of rules that apply to the paint trade, you can't mix nor paint over oil based with water based, they just don't get along and you get peals and blisters or the paint just simply doesn't adhere in the worst case scenario. Synthetics, acrylics, cellulose, enamels, shellac, wax... there is a bunch of divorce and marriage rules you must know to get the job well done and solid.
That was very helpful and great! thank you!
I love the tent idea, I will definitely copy it 👏❤️
Thank you so much for this! Love your channel and the timestamps.
This video was so thorough and filled with fantastic knowledge and tips!! We loved watching it :)
Very helpful for this newbie here👍🏻 thx loads
Enjoy your projects and watching your process.
These tips are great!! I was always afraid of repainting perfectly smooth furniture abcaise I thought I could never get them to look doo at the and and would be devastated it it was full of brushstrokes and drips and I had spend so much time and effort and made it all worse in the end🙈 but maybe I'll try something small and hopefully get the confidence to paint bigger pieces too! (got a big dresser that I love but it's in horrible condition and has waterstains all over it (there's an aqaurium on top) and I would love to refinish it someday!!
Thank you for sharing this ❤️ very helpful! I was just thinking about you the other day! I love seeing what your different projects are and what your working on!!!
I'm Fairly new to this but these tips were absolutely amazing and helpful. Thank you so much. I need all the tips I can get. I'm redoing furniture for my teenage daughters bedroom as a surprise for her when she gets home from her summer trip. I'm so nervous. I hope it all comes out. I'm redoing a jewelry armoire, make up vanity and dresser that I picked up at yard sales. Wish me luck. Thanks again for the great tips