I am looking at building a metal version but yours is the first I have seen with the Z axis as two screws either side. This as I had also thought makes it more rigid and lets me keep the moving wires stationary. Stationary gantry and moving bed. I do big Live Steam models. The ones you sit behind. Backed up by a lovely workshop. Thanks. David and Lily.
I'am doing the same, was going to do this before saw this this video, to reduce vibrations due to vector changes. worried about the router mount using the trim sleeve and small screws though. will be using screws for travel though belts will vibrate I think when cutting metal
Sorry I'm not sure I understand how the gantry tracks straight along the table, there are just the two wheels on either side. Do they run in a track? What keeps them going straight?
Z axis tubes are almost touching sides of the table. So if wheels do not tack straight, which they do without assist actually, Z tubes will not let the whole thing slide.
Hi, what thickness should be the shafts for a 2 by 1.5 meters simple cnc frame, is 20mm shaft strong enough and which nema stepper motor should be used, would nema 23 be good enough ?
I have a question about the design. Like the Y axis, it has wheels, when working with hard materials and of considerable thickness, the vibration that is generated does not reduce the precision of the Y axis?
Each machine has it's own limitations, there's a whole forum dedicated to this machine, I'd recommend to check it to find out more: forum.v1engineering.com/c/lowrider/11
Great final cut out product. My only concern is the wooden pine 2x4 frame. As the wood dries it can shrink and bend. Also, with the changing of the seasons all wood will expand and contract. How have you allowed for these variances?
Today one can use acetylated wood (Essentially pickled wood) like Accoya that absorbs much less water. But it's more expensive, so might as well start start thinking about just going with aluminium.
i downloaded the dfsx files for templates of flat parts . how do know they print at the correct size. how can i get the true measurement ? thanks for any help.
a few observations and questions... 1st: I noticed it is the weight of the machine that keeps it rolling on the table, if you take too aggressive of a cut, it may lift up a little or skip? 2nd: there maybe a little more play from side to side because there are no rollers keeping it in place, maybe just the sides rubbing against the table? I like the design though for a convenient way to have a cnc that you can just throw in the car and take to a jobsite. I guess you would have to keep the ipm on the slow side for this machine.
I think if you take too aggressive of the cut steppers will start skipping as well, so it's about knowing the limits. I was originally concerned about side-to-side shifting as well, it's no an issue, Z-axis steel tubes are almost rubbing on the sides of the table and kipping it centered.
@@cantsitstill9056 I noticed in the V1engineering forum, some have experienced side to side drift as the machine goes up and down the table. Some have corrected for this by adding miniature wheels that pinch an added track to keep the machine aligned. The z-axis tubes rubbing adds more friction and may not do a good enough job to stop the carriage from drifting side to side as it goes up and down the table. It seems like a nice machine although a bit slow compared to more expensive hobbyist machines like the shapeoko.
@@patrickmiao1698 Some other solutions I've seen are to create a wheel in rail system. Maybe the simplest, multiple builds have just routed a shallow channel in the table for the standard urethane wheels to follow.
I’m going to start building my own this week, would you happen to have a link for the stainless steel tubing or the dimensions. I found some on Amazon but don’t want to order the wrong size or thickness. Thanks a bunch!
Unfortunately that exact item is not available on Amazon any more. Here's what description was exactly: Stainless Steel 316L Welded Round Tubing, 1" OD, 0.902" ID, 0.049" Wall, 36" Length
I did a web order (wrong size. darn) but found it was cheaper and quick to order from local metal supplier. Came in 12 foot lengths but they cut it down for me. Good luck
Control side is well described on original maker website: docs.v1engineering.com/software/ I use Estlcam and Fusion360 with Marlin plugin for GCODE generation and then drive it via USB connection to laptop using Repetier-Host
8:31 is it just me or does it seem like the most forward bearing on the right side is binding? Seems like a misalignment that is causing the PETG part to flex well outside the original design spec.
I see that too. My guess is this happens because those z-axis pipes are not attached on the bottom side allowing them to flex more than they should. If I were building this, I'd deviate from the design a bit and make the pipes extend a bit further below the table and attach another bracket to connect them similar to the top. That should help with the flexing. Or bind even more. LOL. Some of my "theories", when put into practice, has proven me horribly wrong.
Sam, good catch. I moved that assembly back and force in the video because I saw exactly what you said. If you look carefully at that point in the video horizontal pipes are not attached to Z assembly just yet. Once those pipes are in place there's a little spacer that sits between horizontal and vertical pipe. With those spacers (and I just carefully measured my setup) everything aligns perfectly and there's no flex between top and bottom positions of Z assembly.
Wouldn't it be better to "re-drill" all holes so you can freely put the bolts in the 3d prints? Just wondering what impact it has on the ability for everything to spin freely.
Was wondering this myself. There are only two sizes of screw/bolt, #6 and 5/16, so it seems it'd only take a few minutes to go through all the holes with the appropriate size drill bit.
@@cantsitstill9056 I've seen a few devices to replace the zip ties. How is the system working for you? Time, use, durability, and precision are the factors I'm interested in.
I'm sure you can, however at the end of the day it may or may not provide speed you desire. It surely would not compare to commercial/industrial machine of the similar size for the speed/accuracy.
@@cantsitstill9056 My application of work is just to cut and Engraving of plywood for speaker Enclosure. I am planning to have Nema 23 and Nema 34 for z axis.
@@killerhackz I suggest going to support forum of the person who originally designed this machine - forum.v1engineering.com/ There are a number of folks there including original maker of this machine who know much more than I would.
I just tried doing that with laser level and a calipers. Came with ~0.5mm flex, considering accuracy of measuring tools and methods that's probably within a margin of error.
Great build! Could you please tell me where you purchased your blue wheels? I've searched and can't seem to find 60mm x 25mm wheels in very many colors.
This video meant to be condensed version of the whole built. There are others out there of this same device with more details, look for a 2 part video by Teaching Tech, here's a link to the first one: th-cam.com/video/xIGre_E2_og/w-d-xo.html
Simple and to the point, love it. Have any issues with the makita? I am in Australia and that is the only one I can easily get my hands on that is 240v and appears to be a drop in fit. Cheers.
No problems with Makita. I love it and I think that it's a better value than DeWalt here it States, mine also came with plunge base also. Only caveat, you'd need a modified base plate.
Only require modifying to add the plunge base? Good to see it works, they are in metric here also, but I have a feeling that is not entirely true, and they just choose the closest metric number, but I guess I'll figure that out when I get one haha, but luckily there is a place that sells new collets.
@@citris87 It's not the plunge base that is used with Lowrider. My Makita came with 2, fixed one (which used with CNC) and plunge version, which I can use with the router for other small jobs. BTW, this design requires removing router from the center assembly every time I need to change end-mill (router bit).
SOO good video, I dont mind no music or instruction. Caan you share link for dust mount for Makita router, I would apriciate. I am building one myself at moment
Mine has good 6 inch of Z travel, that's not where limitation is. The type of Router it takes is either Dewalt or Makita with 1/4 inch collet. Check if you can find 1/4 end mill which would cut 2'' deep, end mills I found so far had cutting depth of 1'' or slightly more.
Mine is printed in PETG, so far holding pretty well. I'm sure it can mill aluminum, however I'm not sure about accuracy, I personally need it for wood only.
Hi sir if u don't mind please let me know where is I m finding these assembly for cnc router u have and you used in your perfect and beautiful cnc machine build ever I really appreciate and like Please tell me thanks
@@gschultz2010 if you can order from Amazon. Order an Ender 3, print off all the parts then return it for a full refund but I'll warn you it's hard to give up a 3d printer once you have one. I constantly use mine for different wood working brackets/shelf supports and tool holders.
That gantry is definitely a different design - i can't say I've ever even thought of the whole beam moving up and down for the Z axis control, looks awesome in action! How are those 3d printed pieces holding up - are they PLA or other material?
Without taking anything away from this video at all, especially as he does it with arduinos etc probably saving a hundred dollars that the other v1 boards cost me, Michael does a great job with three videos showing his build at th-cam.com/video/xIGre_E2_og/w-d-xo.html That’s how I built mine and couldn’t be more pleased
I've been looking for you in the void that is the internet and finally here you are video of exactly what I want
Did you make one?
I am looking at building a metal version but yours is the first I have seen with the Z axis as two screws either side. This as I had also thought makes it more rigid and lets me keep the moving wires stationary. Stationary gantry and moving bed. I do big Live Steam models. The ones you sit behind. Backed up by a lovely workshop. Thanks. David and Lily.
I'am doing the same, was going to do this before saw this this video, to reduce vibrations due to vector changes. worried about the router mount using the trim sleeve and small screws though. will be using screws for travel though belts will vibrate I think when cutting metal
I also broke the z axis main section when tightening the screws. Reprinting and pre drilling this time !
This is one of the nicest designs i''ve seen yet. I LOVE the roller blade wheel idea!
I like this CNC..thank you for share..very nice machine..
Lumber alone for it is 6,000.00 dollars now in the USA. Can’t get anything based on semiconductors at less than 35 times their weight in gold.
wow you made it look so easy, thank you
Can you post a video of the program you are using and how to program the machine pleas :)
Sorry I'm not sure I understand how the gantry tracks straight along the table, there are just the two wheels on either side. Do they run in a track? What keeps them going straight?
Z axis tubes are almost touching sides of the table. So if wheels do not tack straight, which they do without assist actually, Z tubes will not let the whole thing slide.
Is there a way to replace the wood rails with metal? mabye angle iron with counter sunk screws?
I don't see why not
Hi, what thickness should be the shafts for a 2 by 1.5 meters simple cnc frame, is 20mm shaft strong enough and which nema stepper motor should be used, would nema 23 be good enough ?
I needed to assemble a cnc machine
If possible, what are the parts and motors required?
hi there.... just wondering if your nema 17s get hot and what vref they're at.... just curious since most large cncs are using nema23s
Браво !!! Вот что значит золотые руки !
Very nice ! I like your use of the chromed pipe
Those are stainless steel pipes
Respect ,un travail au top super vidéo merci.
I have a question about the design. Like the Y axis, it has wheels, when working with hard materials and of considerable thickness, the vibration that is generated does not reduce the precision of the Y axis?
Each machine has it's own limitations, there's a whole forum dedicated to this machine, I'd recommend to check it to find out more: forum.v1engineering.com/c/lowrider/11
Omg. I was good until the firmware. Did u make up the wood pattern? Cheers 🍻 and nice... 🇨🇦
Awesome build 👍🏼 thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
You got a new subscriber here! Great job
Great final cut out product. My only concern is the wooden pine 2x4 frame. As the wood dries it can shrink and bend. Also, with the changing of the seasons all wood will expand and contract. How have you allowed for these variances?
Plywood is the answer. It’s not so affected by yearly humidity differences
Today one can use acetylated wood (Essentially pickled wood) like Accoya that absorbs much less water. But it's more expensive, so might as well start start thinking about just going with aluminium.
My left ear loved this video :)
@ John Aldred ....................Sounds fine to me. I am deaf in my right ear and watching this with a head set on though ;)
What a neat build!!
👍😊 хорошее видео прям все детально что и как показано мне понравилось.
Excellent Video for DIY CNC Build....Great Job
i downloaded the dfsx files for templates of flat parts . how do know they print at the correct size. how can i get the true measurement ? thanks for any help.
Awesome build!!! Thanks for sharing. :))..........
a few observations and questions... 1st: I noticed it is the weight of the machine that keeps it rolling on the table, if you take too aggressive of a cut, it may lift up a little or skip? 2nd: there maybe a little more play from side to side because there are no rollers keeping it in place, maybe just the sides rubbing against the table? I like the design though for a convenient way to have a cnc that you can just throw in the car and take to a jobsite. I guess you would have to keep the ipm on the slow side for this machine.
I think if you take too aggressive of the cut steppers will start skipping as well, so it's about knowing the limits.
I was originally concerned about side-to-side shifting as well, it's no an issue, Z-axis steel tubes are almost rubbing on the sides of the table and kipping it centered.
@@cantsitstill9056 I noticed in the V1engineering forum, some have experienced side to side drift as the machine goes up and down the table. Some have corrected for this by adding miniature wheels that pinch an added track to keep the machine aligned. The z-axis tubes rubbing adds more friction and may not do a good enough job to stop the carriage from drifting side to side as it goes up and down the table. It seems like a nice machine although a bit slow compared to more expensive hobbyist machines like the shapeoko.
@@patrickmiao1698 Some other solutions I've seen are to create a wheel in rail system. Maybe the simplest, multiple builds have just routed a shallow channel in the table for the standard urethane wheels to follow.
Are all the 3-D printed parts from a kit? I’d appreciate the name.
Construção perfeita parabéns 👏👏👏
Linear slide manufacturers still have nothing to worry about.
wow great job
HELP.. where do you buy the kits from I'm wanted to built one to...any input helps me out alot....
You can find kits here: shop.v1engineering.com/
Very nice one I like it
Can you ad the links where you bought the matterials? Please
It's already in the description
I want to use the makita router to i have to change the bolt pattern for the base plate right?
There are remixes of the plate on Thingiverse, here's one I used: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3257573
Hey there what is the make of your Makita Router?
It's Makita RT0701, here's a link to exact one I got: amzn.to/3w1bVRH
You could make this any length x width? Make a HUGE cnc? 2m x 4m?
It can be as long as your table. However if you make it superwide, rigidity of stainless steel tubing is a limiting factor, it'll sag.
can you give me a shopping list for everything needed from your website to build this
You can buy kits here: shop.v1engineering.com/
I need spare parts.. please give me parts list and quotation
Awsome ,good stuff
I noticed you're using a makita router where can I find metric collets for the makita
There are other router options (Dewalt, etc.) Here are some collet options: www.elairecorp.com/makitaroutercollets.html
I’m going to start building my own this week, would you happen to have a link for the stainless steel tubing or the dimensions. I found some on Amazon but don’t want to order the wrong size or thickness. Thanks a bunch!
Unfortunately that exact item is not available on Amazon any more. Here's what description was exactly: Stainless Steel 316L Welded Round Tubing, 1" OD, 0.902" ID, 0.049" Wall, 36" Length
Thanks a million!
I did a web order (wrong size. darn) but found it was cheaper and quick to order from local metal supplier. Came in 12 foot lengths but they cut it down for me. Good luck
@@cantsitstill9056 can this be expanded to 48”
@@cantsitstill9056 it appears the x can be as long as you want it.
Came out awesome!!!
Thanks for sharing! It looks great but how did you deal with the software and controls side of the build?
Control side is well described on original maker website: docs.v1engineering.com/software/
I use Estlcam and Fusion360 with Marlin plugin for GCODE generation and then drive it via USB connection to laptop using Repetier-Host
Un gros bravo rien à dire merveilleux
8:31 is it just me or does it seem like the most forward bearing on the right side is binding? Seems like a misalignment that is causing the PETG part to flex well outside the original design spec.
I see that too. My guess is this happens because those z-axis pipes are not attached on the bottom side allowing them to flex more than they should. If I were building this, I'd deviate from the design a bit and make the pipes extend a bit further below the table and attach another bracket to connect them similar to the top. That should help with the flexing. Or bind even more. LOL. Some of my "theories", when put into practice, has proven me horribly wrong.
Sam, good catch. I moved that assembly back and force in the video because I saw exactly what you said. If you look carefully at that point in the video horizontal pipes are not attached to Z assembly just yet. Once those pipes are in place there's a little spacer that sits between horizontal and vertical pipe. With those spacers (and I just carefully measured my setup) everything aligns perfectly and there's no flex between top and bottom positions of Z assembly.
Can this cnc work with aluminum?
How much is the price of the complete kit for assemble of this machine today?
It can if you know what you are doing and go slow. Kits available here: shop.v1engineering.com/
how is the x-axis moving ?
Both X and Y are belt driven.
That is some impressive engineering!
Nice job! This will be really helpfull. How many pwm output are there on this arduino shield?
I don't remember :) it was replaced by SKR 1.3 by now.
Hello please how can I get your machine, 8' x 4'
Hi where I could get the stencil to handmade the parts?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064287
Wouldn't it be better to "re-drill" all holes so you can freely put the bolts in the 3d prints? Just wondering what impact it has on the ability for everything to spin freely.
Was wondering this myself. There are only two sizes of screw/bolt, #6 and 5/16, so it seems it'd only take a few minutes to go through all the holes with the appropriate size drill bit.
Awesome job!!!! One question. Do you have any issues with belt tension? I noticed you don't have any tensioners?
I upgraded to these ever since: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453813
@@cantsitstill9056 I've seen a few devices to replace the zip ties. How is the system working for you? Time, use, durability, and precision are the factors I'm interested in.
I like it buttt the x axis belt is not well placed
Hi this is Sujit from India
can you send this setup in one package link. Not as different different packages
Молодец👍👍👍
How did you cut out the wooden plates?
Converted DXF to PDF, printed, glued to MDF/plywood and cut out by hand.
How I can buy?
What's the work area dimensions ?
It's roughly 30"x70"
@@cantsitstill9056 great, thank you
Sir I want this machine
Can we make it 8*4 cutting capable CNC for 18 mm plywood cutting..?
I'm sure you can, however at the end of the day it may or may not provide speed you desire. It surely would not compare to commercial/industrial machine of the similar size for the speed/accuracy.
@@cantsitstill9056
My application of work is just to cut and Engraving of plywood for speaker Enclosure. I am planning to have Nema 23 and Nema 34 for z axis.
@@killerhackz I suggest going to support forum of the person who originally designed this machine - forum.v1engineering.com/ There are a number of folks there including original maker of this machine who know much more than I would.
It seems like those tubes would have a lot of flex in the middle. Have you measured that?
I just tried doing that with laser level and a calipers. Came with ~0.5mm flex, considering accuracy of measuring tools and methods that's probably within a margin of error.
Great build! Could you please tell me where you purchased your blue wheels? I've searched and can't seem to find 60mm x 25mm wheels in very many colors.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UODTRI
Need some commentary to explain what you are doing, where you got things and how you do it
This video meant to be condensed version of the whole built. There are others out there of this same device with more details, look for a 2 part video by Teaching Tech, here's a link to the first one: th-cam.com/video/xIGre_E2_og/w-d-xo.html
Have you done any measurements for precision and repeatability?
I have not
Simple and to the point, love it. Have any issues with the makita? I am in Australia and that is the only one I can easily get my hands on that is 240v and appears to be a drop in fit. Cheers.
No problems with Makita. I love it and I think that it's a better value than DeWalt here it States, mine also came with plunge base also. Only caveat, you'd need a modified base plate.
Only require modifying to add the plunge base?
Good to see it works, they are in metric here also, but I have a feeling that is not entirely true, and they just choose the closest metric number, but I guess I'll figure that out when I get one haha, but luckily there is a place that sells new collets.
@@citris87 It's not the plunge base that is used with Lowrider. My Makita came with 2, fixed one (which used with CNC) and plunge version, which I can use with the router for other small jobs. BTW, this design requires removing router from the center assembly every time I need to change end-mill (router bit).
What about the Dewalt D26204KE??? This is the same as the 611 in the States... I was planning on getting this for my LowRider...
@@AlanWoodman I don't know about D26204KE, check v1engineering forums, I'm sure there's got to be something about it there.
SOO good video, I dont mind no music or instruction.
Caan you share link for dust mount for Makita router, I would apriciate.
I am building one myself at moment
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3257573
Hello, what measures does that machine have?
Work area is roughly 30" x 70"
Great! How can I gat this kit for me. What is the cost of kit..
shop.v1engineering.com/collections/lowrider-parts/products/lowrider-cnc-bundle
the wheel on the kit are 60mm, can be replaced by another size?
Theoretically it can. Limitation would be the sickness of the table (check what happened in the video on 7:14 mark)
@@cantsitstill9056 thanks por reply, i will bu ilding one now
Pretty cool! What software are you using for Design, G-code generator, & cnc milling?
Estlcam and Fusion360
I want to make guitars. Is this CNC design for small/thin stuff only? Or can it carve and cut solid 2" wood?
Mine has good 6 inch of Z travel, that's not where limitation is. The type of Router it takes is either Dewalt or Makita with 1/4 inch collet. Check if you can find 1/4 end mill which would cut 2'' deep, end mills I found so far had cutting depth of 1'' or slightly more.
Did you print in ABS? How well do those parts hold up? Also, will it mill aluminum?
Mine is printed in PETG, so far holding pretty well. I'm sure it can mill aluminum, however I'm not sure about accuracy, I personally need it for wood only.
I've built one with ABS parts (not this design) about 2 years ago and it still works great - no sign of the parts deteriorating.
para fresar puertas esta excelente
Good job !
Awesome!
Hi sir if u don't mind please let me know where is I m finding these assembly for cnc router u have and you used in your perfect and beautiful cnc machine build ever I really appreciate and like
Please tell me thanks
Check the description
shop.v1engineering.com/ this is the website for it, check the forums if you have any questions.
Why people doesn't read anymore? They just watch videos! . It's indicated in the video details where you can get all infos you need!! Jesus!
Très très bon !
Muito bom o video parabens
Excellent. What is the material used for printing those green parts ?. Thank you.
It's PETG
If I need ti cut acrílic 10 mm ❓
It's perfect for that
Can you tell me where to get this kit/plans please.
shop.v1engineering.com/ I'm just printing the parts for mine now, total build coat is around $400 - 500
Don't have a printer yet... Will be looking for someone to make for me..
@@gschultz2010 if you can order from Amazon. Order an Ender 3, print off all the parts then return it for a full refund but I'll warn you it's hard to give up a 3d printer once you have one. I constantly use mine for different wood working brackets/shelf supports and tool holders.
th-cam.com/video/Vo264b8qk0Y/w-d-xo.html
How could i get in contact with you
Fabuloso un maestro estado buscando el crearme una y tu diseño digno de copiar
Can you sell it to me Aluminum XZ part
Where did you get the patterns for the trivet?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635219
aí eu achei fantastico
Did you have too change to 611 plate to suit the Makita? Thanks 👍
Yes, Makita plate is available on Thingiverse
GOOD ENGINEER
very nice, thenk you
That gantry is definitely a different design - i can't say I've ever even thought of the whole beam moving up and down for the Z axis control, looks awesome in action! How are those 3d printed pieces holding up - are they PLA or other material?
3D printed parts are PETG (just my preference), they hold well, no issues so far.
How many hours of print time?
Click on the provided link everything is on there
do you have a watchable version explaining making a series cable as a complete novice i cant follow your 100 MPH videos with no explanations. TIA
Sorry, I don't, check this page it has enough info to build cables: www.v1engineering.com/assembly/wiring-the-steppers/
Without taking anything away from this video at all, especially as he does it with arduinos etc probably saving a hundred dollars that the other v1 boards cost me, Michael does a great job with three videos showing his build at th-cam.com/video/xIGre_E2_og/w-d-xo.html That’s how I built mine and couldn’t be more pleased
change playback speed to 0.25x - then its only 25mph - so very fast run :D
is there a parts list available
www.v1engineering.com/lowrider-parts/
are you using limit switches
under $600 gets my attetion.
Да уж... Вот если бы я хоть немного разбирался в электронике, то тоже чё нибуть подобное себе сделал.
:)
What vacuum are you using ?
Currently Vacmaster amzn.to/34e2Fvi plan to switch to a bigger dust collection soon.
costaria de compra to no brasil como fasor
Hi what is the model number of Makita router ? Thank you.
Here's a link to exact one I got: amzn.to/2PnEqa8