IndyMill - Open Source DIY CNC Machine #4 Final Test!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2024
- After way too long incredibly satisfying build process it's time to test the IndyMill! After finishing cable management I put my new CNC to a lot of tests with various materials and different settings.
Files, parts, everything else: indystry.cc/indymill
My store: indystry.cc/store/
Parts list: bit.ly/3hADutn
Build Instruction: gumroad.com/l/indymill
Support my projects on Patreon → / nikodembartnik
It was a long journey! I am happy and sad at the same time that it's the end of this project :(
But wait, is it? Of course not, it's just the beginning, so many materials to test, so many things to make and so many ideas. I hope you enjoyed the series and that you will follow my new projects, there is some exciting stuff coming up! As always any feedback is highly appreciated :D
#diycnc #indymill #cnc - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thank you very much for following me on this journey! Thanks for the support, all the comments and tips :) I know there will be a lot of questions about things that I did not cover in this video so here you have the answers:
0. Check out my store if you want to buy parts for this project: indystry.cc/store/
1. Price! An obvious question, how much did it all cost? You can easily build exactly the same machine as mine for less than $1000. It all depends on where you source the parts and most importantly how much you paid for steel plates (more on that in point number 2). Is it a lot? I don’t think so, especially when you compare it to other commercial options available. Something that I also didn’t mention in the video is that you can actually start with a less expensive setup that is easy to upgrade later (you can easily attach Nema 23 or Nema 17 to X and Y axis, there are mounts for both motors combined in every plate except Z axis, if you use Nema17 you can go with GRBL shield and smaller stepper motor drivers, smaller power supply and so on). You can even start with trapezoidal lead screws on each axis and later upgrade to much more expensive ball screws. You can easily save about $200 dollars that way and have a rigid, upgradable machine!
2. IndyMill plates for sale! But not yet. I got my first prototype of those plates, cut out of 6 mm steel with powder coating just a few days ago. I already know that 6 mm is more than strong enough for such CNC, but I have to go through some more testing, experiment with the final color, pricing, shipping, and safe packing. No worries, it is close to being finished and I will let you know once those are ready to buy through the newsletter (you can sign up at indystry.cc) and maybe I will make a video about the small-batch production process. Sounds cool?
3. I ordered more IndyShields and hopefully, you should be able to buy them again on Tindie next week.
4. How about another IndyMill test video? I want to mill some more things and show you what this machine is capable of. And of course, it will be just fun to mill some more things :) Any ideas on what to mill?
5. Working area is about 520x400x115mm
That’s it I think. If you have any more questions feel free to ask, I read every single comment. Thanks again for everything, don’t forget to check out indystry.cc and IndyMill build instruction!
Mill an instrument... like an electric guitar! :)
Wait... Nikodem, have you tried milling pcbs with any of your CNCs?
@@an-yr7gk I just did that on my diy cnc made an egen8 copy and if you are interested in some free files looks at the laguna cnc strat
look in to compression cutters, they help a lot with fuzzy edges in wood, almost leaving no fuzz at all
@@sammiller5509
Yes thats how they're called.
Also I think just straight 2 flutes.
But I think he said he was just waiting for them to arrive.
Dear Nikodem,
first of all thank you for this intresting Project. I started now to order the parts for my own Indymill. One thing I am really struggling with is that your 2080 and 2040 Profiles are the chinese profiles, meaning that they are more or less Item profiles but with a 6mm channel which is originally not available in europe. This means that no shop in europe provides the ready cutted profiles. I will work now with the 5mm Channels I-Typ hoping that the M5 Screws for the connections are enough.
I have one question,you used 666mm profiles with the 650mm lead screw. While you use in the other axis 600mm profile with a 600mm leadscrew. Do you adapt the missing 16mm with the coupling? BEacuse the rest of the design looks for me as it would be the same in both axis.
Great work! Just a hint: when milling wood, specially pinus, you can greatly reduce the necessity of post processing by simply performing a single last pass on the reverse direction of cut. Just clone your path and set it to cut in the opposite direction. Maybe it may be useful for you.
You're amazing man, please never stop sharing your pasion! I'll start designing my CNC and your project is truly inspiring.
This is so exciting to see.
Great job, Nikodem!
You're my hero, I always wanted to create a CNC machine with a decent work volume. May you be generously blessed in life!
Before I mill acrylic, I put it in the freezer to get it cold. The smaller bit don't clog up so much. Glad to see you're enjoying your cnc.
Nice idea, need to buy a freezer for my workshop :)
@@nikodembartnik CAST acrylic mills much better than EXTRUDED acrylic. Cost a little more but worth it. For aluminum 6061 will mill the best. dont' even try 3003 alloy aluminum unless you buy a special negative rake bit, otherwise it will just get clogged and break.
Rolland Elliott i just clicked the comment button to say that, but I very soon realised that you had already suggested this. 🤣🤣 Nice 👍.
Wouldn't this introduce issues with dimensional accuracy? Acrylic, like many other materials, is subject to dimensional change due to thermal expansion and contraction. Is the scale simply too small to notice?
Neversink Makes .that is a good point. The project I was working on didn't require specific tolerances so the freezer method worked for me. I did try it at room temperature and had severe clogging. So my answer is ,I can't say for sure.
Your mill looks really well made. I have long wanted to get into CNC milling and I am intending to build my own. But seeing this it looks exactly the sort of thing I was intending to build. I just have to find the time now. Thanks for sharing.
Wow! When I saw this project and u genuinely share it I find it myself that I'm amaze with what u are going, enjoying journey with your building project, incorporate what's in your head,creating a system, building,had a lot of test for finding what's the best approach to happen the results u wanted 😊😊😊
More power and more amazing project you will MAKE!
Happy making!
Your video came up in my news feed for some reason so I pushed play. Proper talent. Nice construction . I’m going to watch all of your previous videos now. Great to see up and coming engineers starting out. You’re definitely going places buddy.
Great work!! Im a CNC Machinist and CNC tool and cutter grinder. One piece of advice is with to use 2 flute endmills for your aluminum work and use drills for entry point into workpiece, also slow way down milling through inside corners. when your mill is engaged on a larger percent of its diameter its gonna bind and break with little torque behind it.
Great video! It looks like, in the high speed of aluminum, you were getting a lot of flex in your spindle. If you raise the spindle so the spindle mount is closer to the collet it will increase rigidity. There's a lot of leverage right now between the mount and the tip of the bit. Your smaller bits won't break as easily if you shorten that distance.
I follow your videos and projects with great interesting. I like as you explain them and your passion is tangible. Never stop believing!!!
Stunning machine, and as always, excellent video. I believe the following will improve your aluminium cuts:
1) Use an air blast to clear chips from the cut. The blobs that weld to the end of your cutter are chips from previous cuts that melt during repeated re-cuts. A chip that is no longer there is a chip that cannot melt onto your cutter! A simple fence made from box-cardboard, or thin MDF can stop almost all of the chips from messing up the whole workshop!
2) Use 6061 or similar "free-cutting" grade of aluminium. The hardware store grade alloys are formulated to be extruded through a die, and this also makes them stick to your cutter.
3) If you have to use material that sticks to your cutter, a "fog buster" lube system may be the answer, but it does add more mess, smells, damage, etc to your operation.
Can't wait for your next project... thanks so much!
Came here to say that. Milling cutters really don't like plowing through swarf (chips). It would not be too hard to arrange a light weight air nozzle that is right next to the cutting tip. You could make it even more effective by putting a travelling vac nozzle on the other side of the cutting tool. Aluminum responds great to a light cutting oil, but as you noted, that increases the mess factor by 20x.
And, although the effect is less pronounced with much softer workpieces like wood, finish quality and reliability and precision all improve with automated chip removal using air plus vac nozzles tied to the cutting head. Plus it reduces the mess factor by 75%.
Keep up the outstanding work Nikodem! Can't emphasize that enough.
@@solarguy6043 : I knew there was something I left out of my comment - the vacuum shoe is a "no-brainer" addition for almost all materials! 👍
Ten kanał i projekty które robisz to chyba jedna z najlepszych rzeczy jakie znalazłem na TH-cam. Mega szacunek. Studiujesz budowę maszyn/mechatronikę?
What an incredible random thing to pop up in my rec feed, subbed.
Thanks!
Hi Nikodem,
It's awesome to finally see everything working together smoothly. How about you mill some double sided PCB? I think that will outline nicely the machine's precision!
Awesome job. I've been watching this project for a while and the results look fantastic. As soon as I can find a space in the workshop I'll be getting one!
Awesome, can't wait to see your build!
gg man very nice job i was waiting for that for a long time i cant wait for the other testing videos.
When milling aluminum I would highly recommend using cutting oil as well as forced air.
You will notice that cutting not only goes a lot easier, but the finish is also so much better!
You don't need forced air. Also some drops of Ethanol/ Spiritus is sufficient for this type of milling and has the great property of evaporating, so you won't have a mess afterwards. (Wood wasteboard and oil is also a bad idea, just saying)
@@rayly7291 You do need forced air or high pressure cooling media to evacuate swarf. otherways it gets in the cut again and again.
@@jerzyszczepanski2518 I'm a machinist and work every day with cnc machines. You don't need compressed air, i wouldn't even recommend it for a small desktop CNC. You can simply use a paint brush to evacuade the chips while milling and use some drops of ethanol, just as i said 2 years ago.
Great job big hand from Egypt for you nice work pro hope you get better ideas everyday
This is amazing, you just inspired me to build a CNC machine myself.
Great work man, I found your channel thanks to this project and it's great to see if finally working! Congrats
Looks like a lot of people found my channel because of this project, I hope you will enjoy my other projects as well!
@@nikodembartnik oh don't you worry, I have watched all your previous videos too! Amazing to see how far you've come with video and project quality, a true inspiration
You're an Awesome young man! I wish you the best!!!
Hi Nikodem, I really enjoyed your videos. I even bought my own 3d printer and started building my own CNC Dremel machine. When that's finished I am definitely also going to try to create the indymill project. I already ordered your IndyShield boards. I would really be interested in the steal plates as well. Hope you can make a some money by selling these parts. You definitely deserve some payment for al the great work you have been doing. It's also very nice to see you working together with you dad sometimes. He must be so proud of your achievements! Keep up the great work!
Respect, well done. Thank you for sharing your amazing design.
CONGRATULATIONS FROM SPAIN!! I have a similar machine like yours and it's incredible :)
Hey Nikodem, I love your CNC vieos and you actually inspired me to build my own dremel CNC. I don´t have a 3d printer, so I built mine from scrapwood after creating a 3d model in fusion and it works great :D I am currently working on making it better by using parts I mill myself from wood and I hope you could do something similar with your machines (just maybe with aluminium).
Thank you for giving me this awesome Idea and for all those nice videos and greetings from Germany
I noticed you are not seating your ER11 collets in the nut properly. If you seat the collet into the essentric hole in the nut, the collet will clamp down better around the mill bit. But great machine!! Keep up the great projects! I think I will make one at some point!
I really enjoyed your little series on building the Indymill. Keep on making good content. I would have built a bigger z-axis and grbl mega 5x, so that you can add a 4th and even 5th axis.
In your video it looks like, that you put your ER11 collet in to the spindel befor puting it in to the nut. Thats not how you should install an ER collet. You should put your collet in to the Nut befor putting it in the spindel. When you look in to your Nut you schould see an oval, behind that is a shampfer. You press your collet in to your nut. If you tourn your nut upsidedown and your collet dosent fal out. You did it right. After that you can install your tool.
No worries I installed it properly :) I was recording the video and then I've remembered that I am doing it wrong so I did it the proper way but forgot to shoot that so I used this footage, good that you noticed, thanks for comment
Marc Krüger I struggled with this issue for a few days before I figure it out, you are exactly correct. Couldn’t figure out why my bit would not run true lol. That was why.
WWWOOOOOOOWW! Congratulations, great video, so nice to see a project like this workout. And your milling aluminum too, that's fantastic, thank you.
I Will try to add endstop switches when I build mine soon :) Its really useful when you are using multiple bits
Lovely work there. Would love to have seen an upgrade to this project using 4080 C-Beam. I think that would take Indy to the next level of machining and rigidity.
Good on you on setting up your store.
You have a new sub.
Dear Nikodem you have to be proud of your inventive and capability to make such a nice milling machine. :-)
Good job Nikodem! I cant wait until all of ordered parts will come to me and also build one :)! Thank you
Can't wait to see your finished IndyMill!
You are my role model started my own cnc project because of you :)
hahah, thanks!
Nice build.
The next tool I'm adding to my shop will be a cnc router.
I have been debating building or buying one.
I might just build one of these!
Good Work!
Congratulations for the great project! I've been thinking about making my own 3D printer with a specific goal, that maybe with the IndyMill I might reach.
Do you think it is possible to create PCB boards using it? Maybe buying copper-silked boards and using the CNC to drill the copper, leaving in the board only the vias of the final circuit? That would be awesome!
kawał dobrej roboty ziomek! sam kiedyś mam zamiar sprawić sobie takie cacko i twoje filmiki się na pewno przydadzą. Poza tym to robisz kawał dobrej roboty jeżeli chodzi o video - serio jest zajebista jakość i montaż jak na taki mały kanał - rób takie filmiki dalej a daleko zajdziesz :D pozdro!
Your machine looks amazing.
I would like to see your CNC machining other polymers, like nylon for example.
Respect man ... very nice work, nice presentation and I like your talkings ... thumbs up!!!
Awesome build,,hoping i can build this type of cnc in the future
Awesome work!
Thank you.
Great job Niko!💪🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great work. Thanks for sharing files.
Awsome machine. Great to also see it milling metals! I have found that milling metals is a whole other game compaired to woods and plastics.
tremendo trabajo, te sigo desde el que hiciste a partir de un 3018 impreso en 3d, mucho tiempo ha pasado, pero culminar con un aparato tan completo como este , le haz invertido mucho de tu vida, mi respeto y saludos desde mexico cdmx.
brawo Nikodem ! naprawdę ładny projekt !
great build, im thinking of 3d printing the plates and then upgrading to aluminum parts that the 3d printed version will probably be able to manufacture
Because you are so kind to share your ideas, here is mine. Make a version of this that is VERTICALLY orientated and can be mounted on a wall (onto a wooden backplate). This has a few benefits:
1. It will save space;
2. It can be larger in size or can be placed on top of a workspace/piece;
3. All dirt produced falls down by law of gravity and can be easily collected and nicer cuts because of clean surface;
4. (Large) plates can be easily mounted vertically;
5. A wall is very solid support structure;
6. You can use a simple curtain to keep away the dirt from spreading into environment when operating.
What do you think about this? I think you doesn't have to change much because the head already has a great solid design (wormgear) to be able to go up and down instead of going forward and backwards. Let me know what you think.
Great series, What modifications do you think would be required to use this for laser engraving also?
That's awesome.. well done dude 👏💪
Professional video, nicely done! What's the 'dremel' tool you are using around 12:38?
your series is the best diy series in the world ;)
Bravo. Super travail. Merci pour le partage.
Awesome. Look for down cut endmills, they can help with surface engraving. Wood should get less hairy.
Great video, though one tip... the collet. Put it in the ring/nut first (at an angle, then press it straight, it should *click* in there), and then put it in the spindle. If you power the ring/nut on it with brute force sooner or later you're gonna break something....
Good video! Very detailed and I'm glad you've gone through the process of what it can and can not do.
What software are you using?
Update: I finished hearing the video and found you using Fusion 360. Is there a comparable free software out there that would work?
I'm a mechanical engineering student in Australia and I appreciate your videos, you're an inspiration!
U may like this
th-cam.com/video/TZuK2f2Y2vg/w-d-xo.html
Nice project and channel and remember this u have a bright future on what u doing. + u can make a near holder for the laptop just like big machiens
Awesome project, I'm either going to build a Dremel CNC or an IndyMill for sure.
It's nice to see you're benefiting from trying different cutters. Watching your earliest Dremel videos I was thinking your machine would benefit a lot from using cutters more suitable for the individual materials. Especially aluminium, which is "sticky", as you found yourself at 9:20 .
A bit of oil or WD40 would work wonders.
Its better to build avid cnc type ..indimill or Dremel is not sturdy compared to avid cnc
You can see here th-cam.com/video/TZuK2f2Y2vg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the videos! very informative, great job.
I've been wanting to DIY a CNC for some time now, been trying to research my options the past few days. I like the freedom of DIY vs finding a completed budget one on amazon.
Although, I am torn between the headache of sourcing the parts vs trying to pick one of the many 3018 CNC offered on amazon... (of course a DIY would be preferable over the various limitations of the 3018 CNCs offered)
Do you plan to offer your design as a kit i could purchase?
Thanks!
When changing collets always fit the collet to the nut first, the way you did it inserting the collet into the machine then the nut afterwards can distort the collet and the bit will not sit right, inserting the collet into the nut first you will feel it clip in when presented about 45 degrees and then straighten it up you will find it seats right and get much less runout in the bit.
Merci pour vos vidéos de très bonne qualité.Tout paraît si facile avec vous..... même si je ne comprend pas tout car mon Anglais est limité ; je vais toujours au bout car les images suffisent .Merci beaucoup d'épauler nos rêves et d'instruire nos projets.
Can't wait to build this!
Well done Nikodem! It's been a fantastic project. End result is very good. I will be looking to make an IndiMill.
Thank you! Good luck with the build :)
Awesome work, Nikodem! Have you considered selling the IndyMill as a kit (or maybe even pre-assembled)? I think lots of makers might want to use an open-source CNC like this in their workshops. Selling the machine could be a way to get some return on the investment (both time and money-wise) you made on developing this project.
Risky. It could be a trap for Nikodem. "lots of people might want" means nothing from a commercial point of view. Sympathy had never made business. Engagement, conversely is a honest start. If a bunch of viewers do want to buy a pre-assembled CNC, they should sign a kind of warrant that they won't change their minds some time after. It's crucial for Nikodem to exactly know how many guys are REALLY I mean SERIOUSLY interested in buying his stuff. Assuming "lots of makers" as you said, might want etc... etc... is JUST an opinion.
@@joetke Did you heard about pre-order system?
I'm sure he's had the thought, if he bulk orders parts and can sell it at a price point of 1k there's definitely a market opportunity since everything at that price point doesn't have reliability or as great of a working space.
Very nice video, very clear! that provides extra inspiration.
You did great work !
Great job! You need a dust boot and a box to contain chips and dust.
I usually dab Castrol stick wax on the cutter while its running, to help keep aluminum from sticking or melting into the flutes, also using air to keep the chips from jamming up the cutter. Wd40 helps in a pinch when doing short runs.
I'm very excited to get started on my Indy Mill. I ordered the PDF on-line yesterday but have not received a download link. When should I expect that?
Hey man, just ordered some parts from your site. hope all goes well with shipping. can't wait to build.
Thanks a lot! I can see your order and it will be shipped out soon!
@@nikodembartnik parts received in good order. Thanks a lot,
Really nice work!!!
You made a comment about the inside surface finish of your first job: this is also due to the fact that you are milling softwood, which is common in Russia as it is here in Canada. I have used software for many routing projects and you will never get fine features from it because the grain is too loose and it will tear out easily during post-processing.
This is not a fault of your machine! The same thing will happen if you use an old-style router table with softwood. If you want fine features, try a hardwood like Oak or MDF. The Beech and Birch species are also common in your region and should not be very expensive.
Beautiful job!
Hello Nikodem; first, thanks for sharing such an excellent project. About the Steel Parts, which you show in the video at 1:14, I know you shared in DXF files but neither in the video nor in the files show cutting measures and drilling measures. Thanks
Really cool project!
Great work men
Is there a cad file of the cnc that I can work on? I'm looking to implement a few mods before starting to build.
A máquina ficou linda, parabéns.
Witam. Jeszcze raz powiem że to swietna praca, ciekawi mnie jak skalibrowałeś dwa silniki krokowe na jednej osi że się nie rozjeżdża zbieznosc. Dzięki i więcej takich projektów zycze
This gives me some fantastic ideas.
I would suggest trying conventional milling when working with wood. I know it's counter-intuitive, because climb milling usually gives better surface finish. But that's when working with metals. With wood it is the opposite.
Parabéns, belo trabalho. Somos do Brasil. Abraço
Very nice work man!!!
Just one remark for the video, that trumpet noise is so far I know from Dutch WW2 remembrance day.. ;)
Great video man!
hermano muchas gracias!! Saludos desde mexico! You are amazing!
Awesome machine! Did you tried some hardwoods to get better milling results?
Ho Nikodem, very nice passion,, congratulations
I world like to built a cnc and your projects are very good. I would like mill pcb.
I Was wondering if dremel cnc precision is enologhi or i need an indymill wich i suppose is more precise
Thank you
great work you helped me a lot
Nice cuts on the acrylic. Looks almost as good as laser cut.
Wow!!! I love it!!!
Best endmills for wood are the ones designed for acrilic plastics.
1 Flute downcut mills, and they don't need to be sharp for cutting wood. What i usually do is use them for acrílic untill the cut starts to yield poor cut surface then i just use them for wood
Great job making the Indymill Nikodem! Turned out great, seems to have great capabilities!
mis sinceras felicitaciones, congratulaitions, is the beginning I wish you success friend Ruben D Gutierrez Miami, Fl
09:40 The problem is not that aluminium is gummy at low speeds, it has to do with the rigidity of the tool. If you had a tool with a shorter cutting shank and positioned it closer to the collet, then there would be no leverage to flex the tool when the aluminium bytes. Also, some lube would help rob the shavings of their heat and keep them from getting sticky. Lemmino what you think.
Squirt bottle with turps in it works a treat until you build your own mister
That spindle uses a grub screw to attach the er adapter to a relatively small shank on the motor; this creates compounding accuracy issues and loss of rigidity. Get a cheap 800w Spindle with inverter and choke up on the tool more :)
Great job!
Really great channel!
Have you tried to mills T700 carbon fiber? (E.g. for qu’adopter frame) with this machine and also the Dremel CNC machine?
Amazing! How hard would it be to add another axis? Seems the spindle could be angled fairly easily. Not sure about the code for that.