I Leveled My Printer's Warped Bed using a Mesh Visualizer | Sovol SV06
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2023
- #3dprinting #sovol #sv06
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My process for unsprung non adjustable beds:
Buy 4 or 5 longer screws(or more depending on your bed layout). I bought M4x20mm. You will be about 5mm longer than the factory screws which I think every printer has clearance for.
Buy 8 or 9 M4 washers, and the same amount of small neoprene rubber washers that fit tightly on the screw. Neoprene is rated at 200F continuous working temp. If you consider the thermal conductivity of a steel screw with a spacer sleeve and a washer after that will keep the neoprene from ever getting close to 200F. You could buy 1for each corner only if you want, but some beds are really bad and you may need the squish(I didn't need it).
RESET PRINTER TO FACTORY DEFAULTS or clear your Z offset. This will ensure you don't damage the bed. Most printers I have used are around -2ish mm of offset. Each washer is .5mm and the rubber washer is .6
Remove the bed screws and bed.
Attach a washer to the bottom of each new screw after it is through the bed with the spacer on.
Add a rubber washer to each screw which will hold the bolt to the plate with the spacer sleeve and the new M4 steel washer. That friction from the neoprene will save you a headache for sure since you won't have to worry about everything falling out.
Tighten screws until snug leaving yourself play in both unscrewing and screwing to adjust. The neoprene washers provide squish.
Level bed and check the mesh as in this video. I print a lot of ABS so I level at 100c.
You can adjust negative areas by backing off the screw, or tighten the opposite corner, or both.
Keep repeating auto leveling and adjusting until it is where you want it.
If you need to, you can add another steel or rubber washer to a problem corner to help get a better mesh.
I did this on my Elegoo Neptune 3 pro a month ago. I use it daily, and it is holding perfectly. When I got it, the rear left and front right were off by -0.54 and 0.38. Really wonky and the majority of the bed was off at least .2mm. The screws were loose too, so I thought that may be contributing. My bed is at no more than a 0.09 spread from one extreme to the other(if you can call it an extreme lol).
Took me about 30 minutes to do and cost 8 bucks or so. I would rather have it close to perfect than rely on a software correction. I measured the temperature of the area around the sleeve and 100c bed temp, and it was 135F.
Thanks for the share!
Cool! I actually have a problem with left lower area - it's too low...
Thanks for the videos
Thank you for this. After auto z failed miserably, I've been manually leveling the gantry to get closer to a good level. Got 0.35mm variance that is purely warping. Hopefully this will help fix that.
What about the high spots? Did you only tighten screw down ?what if screws were tightened and still have high spots ?
Could u use the Bigtreetech Pad 7 and make a video about that? Would be very nice
Hey, very good work! But what happens, when you lift the PEI sheet and put it back in place? The tape will move or?
No, the tape shouldn't move. Mine hasn't moved, anyway. I recheck this chart every so often and it remains about the same.
@@Avel Thanks for the input. Sounds like a good solution then👍
Wow, that will help me a loot
I know I'm seeing this a little too late but i was wondering, why not put the tape on the magnetic bed itself? Wouldn't that allow you to use either side of the plate?
Someone mentioned doing that, but I don't know if they ever actually tried it. Might be worth attempting.
What if you just stuck the tape to the bed platform instead of the removable plate? Then you could use both sides and it would work for other plates.
Unless the deviations/warping were caused by the removable plate and not the platform?
Hmm.. Might be worth a shot. If you try it out and it works, let me know.
@@Avel Just tried this on my SV06 plus. Got the variance down from 0.428 with just gantry levelling to 0.37 with one layer of kapton. Going to keep at it and will update.
I did exactly that and it works
It's what I did before the silicone spacer mod. I have 3 sheets and use both sides of 2 of them. (2 textured PEI, 1 smooth PEI, 2 Bare steel.) That got it below 0.1mm.
With the nods, I am down to less than 0.2 mm variance total, but haven't re-applied the kapton tape. I found that the mesh changes too much just from operating to worry about it. ABL keeps it good.
hello, thanks for this video, it helped me. I have an question you might be able to answer. I am trying to tune my stepper motor drivers for my sv06, but to do this I need the stepper motor specifications like the conductivity and resistance. Do you maybe know these values? since I cant find a data sheet on internet.
I don't know them, but if you try contacting Sovol directly they may be able to answer.
@@Avel ok, thanks for the reaction!
Wait so..youre telling me I CAN CONNECT MY PRINTER TO MY PC?? I couldve done this the whole time?? I can just paste GCODE there and it does anything in want?
Haha, yep 👍
Does this cause uneven bed temperature due to insulating some areas more than others?
I haven't experienced any issues.
I used a thermal camera and I cannot see much of a difference across the bed.
So how exactly did you flatten your build plate? The only things I saw were you tightening screws and adding Kapton tape. How did either raise that -0.340 area? This was not made clear.
I’m also suspecting that Sovol might have sold warped beds. So can you discuss what you did? I still don’t know what the purpose of the Kapton tape was for. Thanks.
I used the kapton tape to build up the low spots. The magnet pulls the build plate to the bed, so it's like having a shim between the low spots on the plate and the bed, making the plate sit as flat as possible.
@@Avel I see - adding layers of tape created a barrier and blocked the magnetic bed from pulling down the plate, which makes it level. This is a great idea - thank you for this video and the explanation. I appreciate your help!
@@mindbendernineuh... no. He used the tape as a shim, a spacer... Nothing to do with magnetism.
what cable did you use to connect to the sv06 to the printer
It's a micro USB cable. I grabbed this one from Amazon.
a.co/d/a4v0zJR
@@Avel Thank you.
I was wondering as I've seen talk of having to modify power pins and other weidness
but clearly not.
how is the new cooling duct preforming
It's performing well. The only issue I had a while back was the two screws that hold it onto the hot end came loose from vibration. I just put a small dab of Loctite on each one, and I haven't had any other issues yet.
@@Avel I changed nozzle to 0.6mm and seems like SV06 having hard times to print 0.4mm layer height - stock cooling is not enough and layers warp and causing layers shifts and hooking of nozzle
@@gz625Oh, I see. Yeah, definitely worth a try upgrading the fan. Even if you choose a different model than the one I posted. It's worth a shot.
@@Avel I used some 3M double sided tape, I didn''t have screws... so far so good.