I did my elevations the same way on the old layout. I used wood for the elevation to my 2nd level here and also used the woodland scenics risers at the beginning of the ramp. The wood was cheap at the time and provided a very rigid ramp. Also was able to use a 24' board.
I use the inclines to bridge the elevation changes from one level of foam to the next. I pay special attention to the transitions. At the start of the incline u need to fill it some to ensure a smoother transition. At the top of the incline u need to sand or shave some off for the same reason
At the bottom end I just let the foam bend to give it a smooth transition. At the top end, I overlap the foam over the other piece and gradually bend it down for the smooth transition. Seems to work so far
Tom, I too used both and your right. The difference between us is I used a shur form to cut the Grouve in the pick foam. What ever works for us, right?? Marry Christmas, Chris
Tom, you can use a circular saw to cut the foam. But I found a utility knife that is about 4-5" long and I use a straightedge to cut my foam. Make several shallow passes first, then using a straightedge snap the foam along the cut edge. Most of the time it snaps straight.
Tom A very Merry Christmas to you, Debbie, and Sadie!(sp s?) Also, didn't know Woodlands Scenics had these risers. Good to know, as I'm planning my first layout in many years possibly using N and HO scale.
Merry Christmas Tom. I enjoyed your video and will watch more of them. I had 1 question about rise. What is the most you can go up? Is it 1/4" per foot?
Depends on what you plan on running. 1" to 4ft is approximately a 2% grade. If your doing logging, you can do a steeper grade. Ideal would be 1% which is 1" in around 8 ft. May last layout was just under 2% and with a cheap loco (Bachman) I could pull 11 cars at most. That's with plastic wheels on the rolling stock, metal wheels roll alot better.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thanks Tom. I have about a 20' run and part of it will be a span of about 7' to 8'. I have some thick extruded aluminum that I will us to build a trestle. Might also build a couple of wood supports for it. I have a lot of materials around and I'm going to try and use up some of it and make it look realistic. I'm on the east coast of Florida and they are putting that new rail line in. A lot of trestles are going in. Are you in Florida to?
@@TomsTrainsandThings I have some cheap Bachman sets. I would like to get a better diesel locomotive. Maybe a 7 or 8 out of a 10 scale. Can you recommend one? I'm thinking log cars, coal cars , and maybe some box cars. I don't have to hook them all up at 1 time. This will be the HO track and 1 oval lap would be about 50 feet long. I also want to set up an N scale track that will be 1 lap and be next the HO track. The HO track will be about 4" above and a couple of inches or so to the side of the N track. I guess a lot of it will be industrial, a gravel quarry, maybe a coal mine etc. There will be some mountains, northern hardwoods, etc. I want the trees to have the fall colors. To many other things to list, lol.
I think that Woodland Scenics risers are too expensive aswell. I got one of the big kits one time that made a 4' × 8' layout with all of the buildings, track, scenery materials and everything else you needed to complete it. The kit had some of this riser material in it and I didn't like it and ended up using styrofoam pieces in its place. I also thought it was too steep. I've got a question for you. Have you ever used hot glue on the foam insulation? I'm curious if the hot glue will work to glue the foam together and things like roadbed to the foam or will the hot glue just melt into the foam? Nice video. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Stay well. -Wil
Thanks for the video! I'm getting ready to do my elevations with foam. Didn't even consider woodland scenics, way to expensive! I love foam, but I'm not good at cutting! Thanks again for your help, I'm ready to go!
I’m INCLINED to agree with you, knew that would get a RISE out of you. Merry Christmas Tom and Debbie.
Good ones... Merry Christmas
I did my elevations the same way on the old layout. I used wood for the elevation to my 2nd level here and also used the woodland scenics risers at the beginning of the ramp.
The wood was cheap at the time and provided a very rigid ramp. Also was able to use a 24' board.
I've always used plywood to elevate everything on my previous layouts. The foam seems to be the easiest and cheapest way now.
Great video. Thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
I use both. The starter riser to get up to the pink or blue board. The Woodland Scenics foam pieces are easier for curves with cuts on both sides.
I can get past the price just to raise the track 4 inches and back down.
Yeah used all woodland scenics and cost me a fortune, next layout with be pink foam risers, great stuff Tom, thanks
It can be very expensive using WS. I purchased those twoo boxes just to see what it was all about. I'll stick with the pink foam to elevate the track
The WS inclines are great for the first course of a helix.
Never thought of that. thanks
Merry Christmas to you and yours, and a better New Year. Thanks so much for sharing the hobby.
Merry Christmas Dave!
I use the inclines to bridge the elevation changes from one level of foam to the next. I pay special attention to the transitions. At the start of the incline u need to fill it some to ensure a smoother transition. At the top of the incline u need to sand or shave some off for the same reason
At the bottom end I just let the foam bend to give it a smooth transition. At the top end, I overlap the foam over the other piece and gradually bend it down for the smooth transition. Seems to work so far
great info , merry xmas
Thanks, you too!
Tom, I too used both and your right. The difference between us is I used a shur form to cut the Grouve in the pick foam. What ever works for us, right??
Marry Christmas, Chris
Merry Christmas Chris
Merry Christmas to you and yours
Same to yoiu
Tom, you can use a circular saw to cut the foam. But I found a utility knife that is about 4-5" long and I use a straightedge to cut my foam. Make several shallow passes first, then using a straightedge snap the foam along the cut edge. Most of the time it snaps straight.
I have a long blade knife I cut my foam with. It works pretty ghood. My issue is parallel cuts. No mater how many times I measure. it's always off
Nice to see you working on your layout instead of talking about that Hard-weeno stuff. Lol. Also, happy belated birthday.
Thanks Mark.... Oh, I'm not finished with Harduino! Merry Christmas
I think it is all about ease of use. You might pay more for the Woodland Scenics, but it is easier to integrate than the XPS.
Sure if you want to pay 10X+ more and in a hurry.
good vid tom thanks lee
Glad you enjoyed it
Tom
A very Merry Christmas to you, Debbie, and Sadie!(sp s?)
Also, didn't know Woodlands
Scenics had these risers. Good to know, as I'm planning my first layout in many years possibly using N and HO scale.
Merry Christmas. It's been around a while but very expensive.
happy holidays. see you on Christmas day, I do a live stream that starts at 4pm
You don't say! LOL See you there. Happy holidays!
Merry Christmas Tom. I enjoyed your video and will watch more of them. I had 1 question about rise. What is the most you can go up?
Is it 1/4" per foot?
Depends on what you plan on running. 1" to 4ft is approximately a 2% grade. If your doing logging, you can do a steeper grade. Ideal would be 1% which is 1" in around 8 ft. May last layout was just under 2% and with a cheap loco (Bachman) I could pull 11 cars at most. That's with plastic wheels on the rolling stock, metal wheels roll alot better.
@@TomsTrainsandThings
Thanks Tom. I have about a 20' run and part of it will be a span of about 7' to 8'. I have some thick extruded aluminum that I will us to build a trestle. Might also build a couple of wood supports for it. I have a lot of materials around and I'm going to try and use up some of it and make it look realistic. I'm on the east coast of Florida and they are putting that new rail line in. A lot of trestles are going in. Are you in Florida to?
@@TomsTrainsandThings I have some cheap Bachman sets. I would like to get a better diesel locomotive. Maybe a 7 or 8 out of a 10 scale. Can you recommend one? I'm thinking log cars, coal cars , and maybe some box cars. I don't have to hook them all up at 1 time. This will be the HO track and 1 oval lap would be about 50 feet long.
I also want to set up an N scale track that will be 1 lap and be next the HO track. The HO track will be about 4" above and a couple of inches or so to the side of the N track. I guess a lot of it will be industrial, a gravel quarry, maybe a coal mine etc. There will be some mountains, northern hardwoods, etc. I want the trees to have the fall colors. To many other things to list, lol.
I think that Woodland Scenics risers are too expensive aswell. I got one of the big kits one time that made a 4' × 8' layout with all of the buildings, track, scenery materials and everything else you needed to complete it. The kit had some of this riser material in it and I didn't like it and ended up using styrofoam pieces in its place. I also thought it was too steep. I've got a question for you. Have you ever used hot glue on the foam insulation? I'm curious if the hot glue will work to glue the foam together and things like roadbed to the foam or will the hot glue just melt into the foam? Nice video. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Stay well. -Wil
I'd stay away from hot glue for those applications. I use either white glue or foam adhesive for the roadbed and foam. It only takes a little.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Thanks. 👍
Thanks for the video! I'm getting ready to do my elevations with foam. Didn't even consider woodland scenics, way to expensive! I love foam, but I'm not good at cutting! Thanks again for your help, I'm ready to go!
Glad it was helpful!. I'm taking the plunge to attempt some straight cuts. LOL
🤠👋🚂👍
Remember my mom using that kind of iron
That's an old iron. I bought that in Lancaster about 30 years ago