Cool 😎 lift up bridge, dear Tom. Love your plan to also scenic the bridge. Am curious to your next progress. On the transitions where the bridge flips up or down; like your idea to pin drill a narrower hole than the track pin diameter. Humbly think that will proficiently secure these track ends into permanent position. For my own lift up, hinged bridge, I’m still deciding which way to go, I’m going to use screwed down pcb ties. I’ll solder the rails down over a length of 1,5”, before I’ll saw the rail in place. Preferably with my extra, extra wide jeweler saw. This, for the shortest gap possible. Next, I’ll slightly bevel the ends, so the wheels and trucks will easily find their way to the next section. I’m also testing a way to surpass the transitions with either on one end fixed guard rails, to further improve and enhance the accuracy of the transitions. Because I’m also thinking of a hinged bridge, on which such fixed guard rails wouldn’t be an option, I’m getting ready for another solution. This solution is a pair of guard rails hard soldered on full strength copper ties, which drop inside the pcb ties. To further strengthen the connection I’m planning to add two small diameter metal dowels under the copper ties, also hard soldered. With a notch on these dowels under the roadbed I should be able to latch these pieces firmly in place, as long as I got the bridge closed. Opening the bridge will need unlatching, and taking out the guard rail pieces. I’m slowly getting there. Also thinking of scenicing the bridge, as well as the track transitions with a kind of steel plate representation one may see above turnout mechanisms on prototype rails in pavement. Thanks 🙏 for sharing.
In my previous drop down bridge from the old layout I used the PCB method, soldering the track & guide rails to it. I couldn't fing my PCB to do it on this one. Still have totes to go through from moving.
great job , Tom . I've commented on your posts before , I was wondering if you have a post about measuring radius curves on my layout . thank you as always peace to you and your family . hopefully one day we'll cross paths at a show . thanks for all you do for the hobby .
I have several where I talk about how I lay my curves but none on how to measure them. I use curved track templates and different radius sectional to trace out where I would lay my flex track.
Tom great job. Have looked at both your bridges. I have only one problem confused with the wiring. Also my layout is O scale 3 rail. Is there anyway you could explain in detail? By the way I did my time ( 12/07/1971 )at Elgin AFB, Florida.
Run your feeder on the underside from the pivot side. Use a switch to remove power when the bridge is removed. Here's a link to a video I did 6 years ago on one of my bridges: th-cam.com/video/Z1ZRkQZult0/w-d-xo.html
I like your idea but I started to run some HO trains. I have a old American flyer 4-6-4 steam engine and any irregularity of the track and it has the front wheels come off or even the whole train derails, so those gaps you have after your track cuts would not work. For 0 gauge it would be fine, especially the traditional round open tin rail, since the pins can be put in the one side and the rail opened, or cut on the bottom to fit over those pins and keep the train on the track just fine.
You have another problem if your loco is derailing at the gaps. If the track is properly aligned at the gap, there should be no issues. Gaps should be cut on straight sections to avoid misalignment.
Nice meeting you and thank you so much
Same to you
The life-up bridge looks great, Tom. Thanks for sharing, David.
Thanks for watching!
Great job! This came at a great time since I am getting ready to build a lift up bridge myself.
Glad I could help!
Looks great, see ya Monday night
Thanks
Great job,The track looks fantastic,cant wait to see the scenery when your done, thanks Tom for the video,have a great day.
You and me both!
I just discovered this channel like a minute ago and there's something just interesting about watching train models like this
Thanks for stopping by!
Hi ya Tom. Nicely done. Pretty soon you’ll have trains running on that new section. That’s great. See ya.
Can't wait! Need more flex track to continue though.
Thank you Tom, it will help me.
Glad to hear it!
Awesome Tom... this seems to be a solid plan... i man need to rethink my drop down.
Go for it. I'm always changing my mind. lol
Tom what about the power wiring. I just start my bridge thanks for posting it was a big help.
Looks great Tom!
Thanks John.
Hey Tom how you doing long time no see.As I haven't been watching your videos in a very long while good to see you again my friend
I have been nervous to start my track work, but I need to just follow your methods and get on it.
What are you waiting for?
Cool 😎 lift up bridge, dear Tom.
Love your plan to also scenic the bridge. Am curious to your next progress.
On the transitions where the bridge flips up or down; like your idea to pin drill a narrower hole than the track pin diameter. Humbly think that will proficiently secure these track ends into permanent position.
For my own lift up, hinged bridge, I’m still deciding which way to go, I’m going to use screwed down pcb ties. I’ll solder the rails down over a length of 1,5”, before I’ll saw the rail in place. Preferably with my extra, extra wide jeweler saw. This, for the shortest gap possible. Next, I’ll slightly bevel the ends, so the wheels and trucks will easily find their way to the next section.
I’m also testing a way to surpass the transitions with either on one end fixed guard rails, to further improve and enhance the accuracy of the transitions.
Because I’m also thinking of a hinged bridge, on which such fixed guard rails wouldn’t be an option, I’m getting ready for another solution. This solution is a pair of guard rails hard soldered on full strength copper ties, which drop inside the pcb ties. To further strengthen the connection I’m planning to add two small diameter metal dowels under the copper ties, also hard soldered. With a notch on these dowels under the roadbed I should be able to latch these pieces firmly in place, as long as I got the bridge closed. Opening the bridge will need unlatching, and taking out the guard rail pieces. I’m slowly getting there. Also thinking of scenicing the bridge, as well as the track transitions with a kind of steel plate representation one may see above turnout mechanisms on prototype rails in pavement.
Thanks 🙏 for sharing.
In my previous drop down bridge from the old layout I used the PCB method, soldering the track & guide rails to it. I couldn't fing my PCB to do it on this one. Still have totes to go through from moving.
looks good
Thanks Dwight
great job , Tom . I've commented on your posts before , I was wondering if you have a post about measuring radius curves on my layout . thank you as always peace to you and your family . hopefully one day we'll cross paths at a show . thanks for all you do for the hobby .
I have several where I talk about how I lay my curves but none on how to measure them. I use curved track templates and different radius sectional to trace out where I would lay my flex track.
Great job Tom, cant wait to try it.
Thanks Frank 👍
Looks good! Can’t wait to see it in action.
You and me both! Now I have to clear off the shelf so I can lay track kup there. lol
Tom great job. Have looked at both your bridges. I have only one problem confused with the wiring. Also my layout is O scale 3 rail. Is there anyway you could explain in detail? By the way I did my time ( 12/07/1971 )at Elgin AFB, Florida.
Run your feeder on the underside from the pivot side. Use a switch to remove power when the bridge is removed. Here's a link to a video I did 6 years ago on one of my bridges: th-cam.com/video/Z1ZRkQZult0/w-d-xo.html
Could you cut the gaps at 45 degree angle and would they fit better
A cut is a cut. You can cut it any angle you like
The wheels have very little surface contact with the rails
Nice job, Tom. Are you using the quick release cut off wheel, mine is almost a year old too, Anyway, the bridge and track look great.
Thanks Jim. No, it's the old fashioned screw in wheel
A lot of people don't like to use white glue but I find it to be perfectly acceptable.
If you make a mistake, a little water will correct it.
I like your idea but I started to run some HO trains. I have a old American flyer 4-6-4 steam engine and any irregularity of the track and it has the front wheels come off or even the whole train derails, so those gaps you have after your track cuts would not work. For 0 gauge it would be fine, especially the traditional round open tin rail, since the pins can be put in the one side and the rail opened, or cut on the bottom to fit over those pins and keep the train on the track just fine.
You have another problem if your loco is derailing at the gaps. If the track is properly aligned at the gap, there should be no issues. Gaps should be cut on straight sections to avoid misalignment.
Hi
Hello
😊
Thanks Randy
👍👍👍❤❤❤🚂🚂🚂