I just replaced the distributor on my 2.5 with this video as my guide. I still need to deal with some idle fluctuations, but she is now purring like a kitten instead of sitting dead on the curb. Not bad for a 30yr old Eurovan. You are the man! Many thanks!
I'll watch videos of any length if the subject matter is interesting. I watched all three parts of this series in a row, so who cares if it's in 8 minute chunks. Plus that's more work for you all to please people with short attention spans! No way you should feel bad about not calling the sensor. The customer is upset? He should be thanking his lucky stars to have such an incredibly skilled and competent tech like you working on his vehicle. Well done!
Customer was no longer upset... after we explained that it was not something we could have predicted would fail. Editing multiple videos or one long one... takes equal amount of time. As long as the channel is growing, I'll continue with my current format (mix of long & short). This was nice to break into 3 (removal, overhaul, installation).
Thank you very much... a lot of people "don't get it" or "can't take it" (motion sickness). I think POV / FPV (Point of view / First person view) is the best way to watch someone do something that THEY are doing... if / when hand work is involved. I wish more Mechanics filmed & posted like me! I'm happy to say that I was / am the first to do so (I think). Some of the bigger channels tried using GoPros to film & post similar POV vids... they stopped doing it! LOL
There is a fairly new channel from Southern California (MechanicOC) that does your style as well (sometimes) but he's not as smooth as you are. In his case he can make me a little dizzy.
@7:18 Learning a lot from all these Eurovan videos even though I don't have some of these issues (...yet, lol)... had no idea there was supposed to be a plastic cover for the distributor, mine is long gone.
Hi Thomas, thank you so much for all your instructing video. I replaced my hall sensor with your vids. Is there a TDM sensor on this engine ? My revolution counter no more works, witch part should i check ?
@@EXOVCDS Its a multivan 1994, AAF from europe - i don't know if there is a link but, when the engine is hot, the rythm of the engine has a hole like every 15 seconds. Someone told me that both problems come from a TDM sensor failure.
I don't know what a TDM sensor is. If the engine is running... then a "tach" signal must be present (ECM uses distributor signal to drive the ignition coil). If your engine has a Crankshaft Position sensor (in North America, they do not), then the ECM uses that sensor to produce a tach signal. You need to check your instrument cluster for a Tach signal. A wiring diagram will show you which wire it is. A good smack on top of the dash with your hand, can sometimes get gauges working again.
@@EXOVCDS a crankshaft position sensor. That's what i was speaking about. Il will try to see if have one. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. ^_^
Sounds better once warm (cellphone footage at the end)... these engines also had piston slapping issues when they first came out. Intake design is what I attribute the noise to... I could be wrong.
Hello Thomas, Long time viewer here. Thanks for your efforts, much appreciated in the VW community! I have a quick question regarding my 2002 Passat 1.8T. Could a P0456 small evap leak also cause a converter efficiency code? Converter doesn't pass VCDS Test, its a bit of a stretch but I'm curious before replacing the cat. Thanks so much for your help!
+Hiram Bernard Hays III Most likely... since the N80 valve is so easy to change, start with that and see what happens with the cat code. Take the car for a longer highway run / extended cruising... that can burn off some stuff in the cat and you might get some efficiency back.
Hi there.. How/why do I have 14.7 volts on the plus and trigger wire at the hall sensor connection when not connected but only 12v at the battery? Still not starting and still has an intermittent spark.. (it has a new coil, leads, plugs, rotor arm, dissy cap, hall sensor, ignition switch, temp sensor) still nothing. (2.5l 1996)
I don't know... post some videos on your channel of how you are checking / testing things, so that I can see. Leave the ignition key in the ON position and trigger the starter directly at the starter solenoid (to rule out an ignition switch issue).
@@EXOVCDS many thanks for your reply. I dont have a channel but I did try your suggestion of manually operating the starter with the ignition on.. No different. I have noticed though that if i place my coil lead near the neg terminal and do as above, it will spark for about a second then stop sparking.. Same happens if i ground the middle pin for the hall sensor. Its sparks and runs the pump a few times then does nothing. My brain hurts
@@EXOVCDS the spark stops at the same time as the pump. Also i cant hear any injector clicking at any point and the spark plug looks dry if i remove one afterwards. Sorry about this
@@nigelhook3437 spark plugs don't get wet if the valves are not open, this is normal. If the fuel pump & injectors are ok (fuel is sprayed), then the engine should start & run for a second or two... or at least sound like it wants to start. If not, then you might have a fueling problem. If you have to wait a few minutes before spark returns, then something is getting warm & failing, causing the loss of spark. Do you have a scan tool that can communicate with the ECM? If yes, when there is no spark, can the scan tool still communicate with the ECM? Check all power & ground connections. There are several ground wires at the battery negative clamp. Clean each connector and make sure that they are secured tight to the clamp.
I don't see any reason to have replaced the hall sensor during the original service, either. There was no reason to suspect it was faulty, and the amount of time it would take to scope the thing "just to be sure" is ridiculous. Sometimes things just fail--especially with older vehicles like this. I can understand why the customer would be upset; to the average person, this would seem like the exact same problem happening again a month after it was supposed to have been fixed. As simple as this type of setup is to us, it can be very difficult to explain to someone with no technical background in a way that they could understand it.
Similar scenario on 2.0L timing belt replacement... cam sensor is easy to do while belt is off, but we don't. Only had one instance where the cam sensor failed within 6 month of belt replacement. The higher the quote (over the phone) the less chance the work will get booked... the more we try to sell (preventative wise) "while things are apart" the more we get portrayed as crooks. I should have trained to be a baker! :-)
I just replaced the distributor on my 2.5 with this video as my guide. I still need to deal with some idle fluctuations, but she is now purring like a kitten instead of sitting dead on the curb. Not bad for a 30yr old Eurovan. You are the man! Many thanks!
Thank you for watching!
I'll watch videos of any length if the subject matter is interesting. I watched all three parts of this series in a row, so who cares if it's in 8 minute chunks. Plus that's more work for you all to please people with short attention spans! No way you should feel bad about not calling the sensor. The customer is upset? He should be thanking his lucky stars to have such an incredibly skilled and competent tech like you working on his vehicle. Well done!
Customer was no longer upset... after we explained that it was not something we could have predicted would fail. Editing multiple videos or one long one... takes equal amount of time. As long as the channel is growing, I'll continue with my current format (mix of long & short). This was nice to break into 3 (removal, overhaul, installation).
I enjoy your style of video and the process in which you repair cars.
Thank you very much... a lot of people "don't get it" or "can't take it" (motion sickness). I think POV / FPV (Point of view / First person view) is the best way to watch someone do something that THEY are doing... if / when hand work is involved. I wish more Mechanics filmed & posted like me! I'm happy to say that I was / am the first to do so (I think). Some of the bigger channels tried using GoPros to film & post similar POV vids... they stopped doing it! LOL
There is a fairly new channel from Southern California (MechanicOC) that does your style as well (sometimes) but he's not as smooth as you are. In his case he can make me a little dizzy.
***** Just took a look... looks like GoPro footage. Music in the background... wonder if they get flagged by TH-cam like I do.
@7:18 Learning a lot from all these Eurovan videos even though I don't have some of these issues (...yet, lol)... had no idea there was supposed to be a plastic cover for the distributor, mine is long gone.
Not really an issue until coolant starts to drip down from the reservoir, or any other type of moisture finds it's way into the engine bay.
Nice job as usual. Almost 20k subs.....awesome!
I didn't think I would get there!
Good video. enjoyed it as usual.
Thank you!
Hi Thomas, thank you so much for all your instructing video. I replaced my hall sensor with your vids.
Is there a TDM sensor on this engine ?
My revolution counter no more works, witch part should i check ?
Possibly a fault with the instrument cluster... year, model, engine?
@@EXOVCDS
Its a multivan 1994, AAF from europe -
i don't know if there is a link but, when the engine is hot, the rythm of the engine has a hole like every 15 seconds. Someone told me that both problems come from a TDM sensor failure.
I don't know what a TDM sensor is.
If the engine is running... then a "tach" signal must be present (ECM uses distributor signal to drive the ignition coil). If your engine has a Crankshaft Position sensor (in North America, they do not), then the ECM uses that sensor to produce a tach signal. You need to check your instrument cluster for a Tach signal. A wiring diagram will show you which wire it is. A good smack on top of the dash with your hand, can sometimes get gauges working again.
@@EXOVCDS a crankshaft position sensor. That's what i was speaking about. Il will try to see if have one. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. ^_^
Great videos again!
Thanks Terry!
Nice one , it does sound like knacky lifters.
Sounds better once warm (cellphone footage at the end)... these engines also had piston slapping issues when they first came out. Intake design is what I attribute the noise to... I could be wrong.
Excelente saludos desde México 🇮🇹
Thank you for watching!
Good series!!!
Thank you! When are you gonna start uploading? Even short cell phone stuff would be cool to see!! :-)
Hello Thomas, Long time viewer here. Thanks for your efforts, much appreciated in the VW community! I have a quick question regarding my 2002 Passat 1.8T. Could a P0456 small evap leak also cause a converter efficiency code? Converter doesn't pass VCDS Test, its a bit of a stretch but I'm curious before replacing the cat. Thanks so much for your help!
Not sure... don't think so. Mainly city driving? Original cat? Oil burner?
Yes original cat, gasoline model. Mostly city, also just did vacuum test on the N80 and it failed. So it looks likes two unrelated issues?
+Hiram Bernard Hays III Most likely... since the N80 valve is so easy to change, start with that and see what happens with the cat code.
Take the car for a longer highway run / extended cruising... that can burn off some stuff in the cat and you might get some efficiency back.
Thanks I will! N80 already ordered, I appreciate your help!
Hi there.. How/why do I have 14.7 volts on the plus and trigger wire at the hall sensor connection when not connected but only 12v at the battery? Still not starting and still has an intermittent spark.. (it has a new coil, leads, plugs, rotor arm, dissy cap, hall sensor, ignition switch, temp sensor) still nothing. (2.5l 1996)
I don't know... post some videos on your channel of how you are checking / testing things, so that I can see. Leave the ignition key in the ON position and trigger the starter directly at the starter solenoid (to rule out an ignition switch issue).
@@EXOVCDS many thanks for your reply. I dont have a channel but I did try your suggestion of manually operating the starter with the ignition on.. No different. I have noticed though that if i place my coil lead near the neg terminal and do as above, it will spark for about a second then stop sparking.. Same happens if i ground the middle pin for the hall sensor. Its sparks and runs the pump a few times then does nothing. My brain hurts
@@nigelhook3437 if you repeatedly ground the center pin, spark also stops after a while? Or can you get spark for a longer time?
@@EXOVCDS the spark stops at the same time as the pump. Also i cant hear any injector clicking at any point and the spark plug looks dry if i remove one afterwards. Sorry about this
@@nigelhook3437 spark plugs don't get wet if the valves are not open, this is normal. If the fuel pump & injectors are ok (fuel is sprayed), then the engine should start & run for a second or two... or at least sound like it wants to start. If not, then you might have a fueling problem. If you have to wait a few minutes before spark returns, then something is getting warm & failing, causing the loss of spark. Do you have a scan tool that can communicate with the ECM? If yes, when there is no spark, can the scan tool still communicate with the ECM? Check all power & ground connections. There are several ground wires at the battery negative clamp. Clean each connector and make sure that they are secured tight to the clamp.
good job
Thank you!
I don't see any reason to have replaced the hall sensor during the original service, either. There was no reason to suspect it was faulty, and the amount of time it would take to scope the thing "just to be sure" is ridiculous. Sometimes things just fail--especially with older vehicles like this.
I can understand why the customer would be upset; to the average person, this would seem like the exact same problem happening again a month after it was supposed to have been fixed. As simple as this type of setup is to us, it can be very difficult to explain to someone with no technical background in a way that they could understand it.
Similar scenario on 2.0L timing belt replacement... cam sensor is easy to do while belt is off, but we don't. Only had one instance where the cam sensor failed within 6 month of belt replacement. The higher the quote (over the phone) the less chance the work will get booked... the more we try to sell (preventative wise) "while things are apart" the more we get portrayed as crooks. I should have trained to be a baker! :-)
You get problems like that in any line of work. You would look good in an apron though...
LOL!
All the bolts gotta be guttentight
Ja Ja !! :-)
i am brazilian , congratulation vídeo very good , subscribe Channel .
Thank you! Welcome to my channel!