Thank you once again for this video and your help. Was traveling and just back to finish this job. Never could get the van to run when mechanic swapped hall sensor. I bought OEM distributor on eBay, and swapped entire unit, fired right up and runs. My conclusion is that either the hall sensor didn't match the windows you mention in the video or maybe the fact that the rotor wasn't sitting on the distributor very well, didn't have that snug feel to it, though was not loose or anything. Not 100% sure, but I certainly learned a ton from your video. Thank you for providing this. I will message you with any future issues and happy to donate to the cause for sound advice. Thank youSean
good morning friend thomas and remove the vacuum hose regulator precione fuel and the truck will not turn off not noticed any difference still on thank you very much for all the information you gave me to me to have been a great help
Hello Thomas, I have a question, which tool did you use for getting the pin out of the plastic wheel thing? Around 6:00 Which size is the shaft? I have a 3.9mm driving punch, but I believe the clip is around 3.7mm., Or did you do it with a 3mm driving punch? I have a Golf Mk3 with a 1.6 ABU engine, and my hall sensor needs replacing, I have a brand-new bosch hall sensor but I can't get the pin out so I can't replace it. The hall sensor works, but sometimes it stalls or just won't start up, if I reconnect the connector on the hall sensor it starts fine, checked the cables and the looked fine and also tried to wobble it a bit but didn't stall or something, so I believe it is the hall sensor itself. I hope you can help me, thanks. Greetings,
Dude, you are awesome - I just subscribed! Two weeks ago I watched your mk5 clutch replacement, just replaced the clutch and transmission on an 07 Rabbit I bought, got rid of the dual mass flywheel and installed a 2012 jetta transmission - works great. Today I bought a 1993 Eurovan 2.5 gas with 13,000 original miles - its been sitting in a garage for many years and is currently not running / starting. Tossed a new battery in it and it cranks over well, and i smell plenty of gas (although its likely bad by now) but no sputtering or anything. I'm assuming I have no spark. Will also have to check timing, likely has never had the belt changed, but sounds to have good compression. Plan on watching a bunch of these videos and hopefully tear into it this weekend and get her going. Thanks for the insight!
+Thomas EXOVCDS After watching a few vids I tore into it today. Getting correct voltage everywhere that I can trace, down to the distributor. Coil is sending spark but none of the wires are sending it off to the plugs. Assuming bad Hall Sensor? Will likely replace it as an assembly with the dizzy/cap/rotor since I can get it that way for less than the sensor alone. Thanks again for the knowledge :) !
jeTTaTurbO How many windows in the distributor? The windows for the hall sensor? The coil is sparking when cranking? Then the hall sensor should be ok.. unless you have a crank sensor, then the coil is firing because of it. If you have 5 windows in the distributor, then you don't have a crank sensor. If spark is coming out of the coil but not out of the distributor, make sure that the distributor is turning... or that the spark is not grounding out inside of the distributor cap.
***** Thanks for the reply! Havent had a ton of time to mess with it until today. I put in a new distributor assembly with hall sensor, cap and rotor but no go. I think I might have misdiagnosed it. I am getting spark at the plug but seems rather weak. Swapped out coil with known good one, no difference. Van has sat roughly 10-15 years so I syphoned out what I could of the fuel and put in 5 gallons of 93 oct, and changed fuel filter and spark plugs (everything still original 1993) It will sputter for a second when first trying to start, then just cycle over. With starting fluid it will cough a bit. Fuel pump seems to be putting out good pressure. It wants to run. Unsure where to look. Timing, gelled fuel in the line/injectors? Thanks again Thomas! :)
Do the hall senders tend to stop working/going out when they get hot? Still battling a misfire/loss of power when it’s warm. Have replaced coil, map sensor, plugs, next is hall sender. Was going to do the thing where you touch the cables together but i feel like that can’t solve it.
On Eurovans, when the hall sensor goes bad it usually ends with a stalling or no start (cranks ok) situation. I have not seen one that causes misfires. It would affect all cylinders and run really rough (if at all).
@@EXOVCDS it has been missing then stalling when warm, the most recent time it wouldn’t start back up but i went back after a few days and cranked it and it fired up. I’m at a loss, have done basically everything. You have any suggestions ?
@Jkidd123 When it doesn't start, check for spark from the coil wire (remove from center of distributor cap and hold it close to a clean metal surface, have someone crank the engine with the ignition key). If you have spark, then the hall sensor is ok. If you have no spark, either the hall sensor is bad or the coil is bad. Trigger the hall sensor signal wire manually to see if the coil produces spark. If yes, then the hall sensor is bad, if no, then the coil is bad. To trigger the hall sensor signal wire... disconnect the hall sensor plug, ignition on, attach a test light to battery negative, briefly touch the tip of the test light to the middle pin of the 3 pin hall sensor wiring harness connector. Every time the test light touches the center pin, spark should jump from the coil wire.
@@EXOVCDS okay thank you i will try this. Just seems odd to me this happens when i drove it has warmed up or the temperature outside is warm. I just replaced the coil with a new one last week so i doubt it’s the coil. It’s always with light throttle pulling out it starts bucking and shuttering and missing and when i press the pedal it starts missing even worse. It almost seems like it’s down on power as well because my foot would be almost to the floor and the rpms would hardly be climbing when i was driving. The last time it did this i kept trying to limp it into a parking spot when it was acting up but it finally just would crank and not start. Came back out to it 3 days later and cranked it and it started and was able to move it into a parking spot. My only other thought is fuel pump but when fuel pumps go bad they normally don’t work at all. Is this correct ?
@Jkidd123 Like I said, I doubt it's a hall sensor issue, I'm just telling you how to eliminate it as a suspect. Most likely you have bad ignition wires or moisture in the distributor cap.
Hello, luv your videos. But i have a question. My 2.5 avt idling bad when warm and have problem with stare while warm. I checked the 51 group in vcds and the camshaft speed was constant 672rpm. I dont know what to think. Just assume that sender value is 0 and its broken?
What year AVT? It looks like the AVT engine has a crankshaft position sensor. Here in North America, the 2.5L engines did not come with crankshaft position sensors. The ECM only uses the distributor hall sensor signal to run the engine. Ghost values in VCDS with the engine off... can be normal. I usually see 250rpm when the engine is off. It could be that you have a failing hall sensor in the distributor... messing up the sync between cam & crank. Disconnect the hall sensor at the distributor (you should still be able to start & run the engine). Drive for a few days with the sensor disconnected to see if things change. If yes, replace the sensor.
@@EXOVCDS this is 2000 EU, today i checked the voltage at the hall sender plug, there is 5V at the source and GND on the other side. Engine didn't start after Hall disconnection. After ignition the vcds says that the is 900 rpms and engine keeeps after that, when engine gets warm the value starts to decrease to around that 630 RPM and starts stalling pull out the misfire at cyl.1 and lean mixture error. I started to worry about valves condition
@@EXOVCDS today I made a smoke leak test of intake and I found that one of the peteol injectors got leakage on the edge. It's on cylinder nr 1 (the same that vcds shows misfire on). Tomorrow probably I will make some compression test and I will try to seal that leak. Is it necessary to dismount the intake manifold to repair it? Thank you very much for whole support! Greetings from Poland!
Thank you for the update. My coworker is from Poland. =) It looks like the fuel rail can be taken off without having to remove the intake manifold. I google searched for an AVT picture. rbcdn.hu/b/202105.98.34084616_1024x768/volkswagen-transporter-t4-volkswagen-t4-multivan-avt-2.5-85kw-motor-22786785.jpg
Hi there, I have a 97 T4 with 2.5 petrol AET type engine and I have an intermittent problem. Some times it can have a total power loss, gauges stop, engine stalls but if it happens while driving car just restarts, if it happens at lights you need to restart with the key. Tends to happen more often in hotter weather or in heavy traffic or at cruise on the freeway. Can't get any error codes when mechanic checks and he has tried leaving car running for long periods in the hope that it happens and leaves a code but without success. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Really like your videos and have found them helpful. You really know your way around these vans. Thank you for your time and regards from Australia.
Hi, thanks for watching! Sounds like the ECM is cutting out momentarily (I could be wrong)... that would explain why there are no fault codes (the ECM is not awake to catch a problem). It's basically like turning the key off and on again while the engine is running. If it only happens one time per week, it will be difficult to track down... the more often it happens, the better chance of finding what the problem is. Does this engine have a crankshaft position sensor? The 2.5L engines here in North America, did not come with one. A faulty crank sensor should set a code though, and usually causes a vehicle to not start for several minutes once it acts up.
***** Thank you for the quick reply. That does make sense with the ECM. Not sure about crank sensor but will check with my mechanic and get back to you soon. Again thank you for your time and thoughts.
good afternoon friend's truck and on but drowning by having much fuel passage and the coil and the distributor was tested and works properly and let me know if that happens Do you would know why it happens? that I realized that that depress the fuel hose with pliers to decrease precione Station and the truck improved its performance could ponerce up but with some failure of fuel Injection
***** good morning friend thomas and remove the vacuum hose regulator precione fuel and the truck will not turn off not noticed any difference still on thank you very much for all the information you gave me to me to have been a great help
Those are probably knock sensors. North American Eurovans only had 2.8L VR6 engines in 2003 (last year for Eurovan). 2.5L inline 5 cylinder till 97... I think.
@@EXOVCDS my.mechanic told me they are cam shaft position sensors, also known as hall sensors... I changed one of them but engine light still on so ordered the other
@@EXOVCDS no chain noise (thankfully) just the damn engine light and code reader said cam shaft position sensor. Hopefully second sensor replacement fixes it
@@bryankuderman945 the oil control valves for the camshafts can become stuck, resulting in camshaft sensor fault codes. To change them, the intake manifold and upper chain cover have to be removed... if the new cam sensors don't solve it, I would check them next.
Great video, just did mine with the issue described. I have an issue where the one supplied (Hall Sensor) is different to the one installed (Stubby). Changed it as you have shown, and the same unit. Would I need to move the Dizzy 180 degrees as the sensor is on the other side and the harness connector is opposite? Appreciate and love the @How to's@. Thanks in advance for the help.
If the distributor was timed to the stubby engine, then you need to rotate the distributor until the hall sensor is in a position where the shutter wheel is in the same place (window open or closed) as the stubby was. If the stubby was at 6 o'clock with an open window and the new sensor is at 12 o' clock with a closed window... rotate the distributor until an open window is at the sensor. Engine should start and then you can adjust timing.
Excellent, all done and running!! Just need to get the timing set up. If was not for guys like you sharing this to the global audience this job would have cost me $$$$$'s. Thanks again and keep making those videos.
No... the transistor that is inside of it can't be accessed for replacement. You've narrowed it down the the sensor? A bad sensor will cause the engine to stall / not start. In North America, the 2.5l did not have a crank sensor... on the models that do have a crank sensor, the engine will run if the cam sensor / hall sensor fails. Have you checked cam / crank belt timing? If your distributor moved... you could have retarded timing which could be causing your power issue.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Hmm.. ok. Yeah I think it's the hall sensor. seems like it costs alot for such a small part www.amazon.com/Bosch-1237031296-Impulse-Sender/dp/B001CO18IQ but there's also some cheap ebay part www.ebay.com/itm/HALL-PICK-UP-SENSOR-ASSEMBLY-1237031296-12303200-CM77299808-FF-/271985960255?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 not sure about the quality though. haven't checked the timing yet. I noticed that you're replacing the whole metal plate + hall sensor, but the one's I found just come with the sensor, is this a problem? Also, I was reading somewhere that you have to be really careful to not damage some kind of connector or wires somewhere when removing it/dissasembling the distributor?
+Žanas Tumasonis The sensors you have listed are the "stubby" style... they will NOT work on the Eurovan. Yes, they will fit / mount into place, but because of "where the sensor is located", it will generate a signal at the wrong time. The stubby sensor has the "sensor" right at the connector... the Eurovan hall sensor is On the other side of the distributor / hall sensor connector. It has to be in the same place in order to keep the timing siganl correct for the ECM. It's the wiring from the connector that goes to the sensor that can get pinched / break if not handled correctly: partsforcar-2013.co.uk/czesci/030%20905%20065%20B.jpg
+Thomas EXOVCDS Having some hard time finding the full part... started googling with german words like hallgeber or impulsgeber to find the correct part but I dont totally understand what these guys are talking about since google translate obviously wont translate all of it, where did you get the part from? www.t4forum.de/wbb3/board19-technik-bereich/board119-fahrzeug-unterhalt/board7-wartung-instandsetzung-bullim%C3%A4ngel/160712-aaf-z%C3%BCndverteiler-hallgeber-defekt/
+Žanas Tumasonis If the engine is running, the hall sensor is most likely ok... like I said, when they fail, they usually are dead = no spark. Crank the engine while looking for spark from the coil wire (remove from distributor cap and hold 1/8 to 1/4" from a clean engine ground). If you see consistent strong spark, hall sensor, coil, ecm control of coill are ok. I'm currently at work... won't have time to read links / check back with you that often, sorry.
Hmm, if you know what the new part looks like and you know where the old one is located... it shouldn't be too difficult to figure out what needs to be done, to remove / install it. So sorry my video was not able to help you.
I just picked up my first VW T4 van 1995 model . I hope you can help. It loses power going up hills no guts at all. If you can help thank you in advance Roc
Standard or automatic? Do the rpms climb... but the speed does not increase? Does it happen all the time hen going up a hill? In which gear (standard or auto)? While the engine & transmission are still cold or only when war or both? The more info I have the better I can "guess" what the problem might be.
@@rockyroc8018 I don't know what that means (pressure hoses). If the clutch isn't slipping, then I would check / make sure that fuel pressure is OK. Have you driven standard vehicles before? Any weird noises? Excessive engine "pinging / knocking" will cause the ECM to retard ignition timing. Again, the more info I have, the better I can guess.
hello thomas! i have a 93 vw eurovan 5 speed the problem is that spark is going inside the distribuitor but is not coming out to the sparkplugs and when it does the whole motor sounds to weak if i press gas shuts off so i replace the hall sender sensor but the one that i got is just one piece doesnt have the wires and the magnetic field is atached close to the 3 way conector so once i finish the installation it does start but still weak not even to move the van because it shut off rite away so i took the sensor back to BAP autoparts the told me that it is the rite one but my concern is that it looks very diff from the one thta it comes in my distribuitor !
Make sure that the ignition wires do not have high resistance... as well as the ignition rotor. Ignition wires, 4k to 6k ohms each, ignition rotor 2k to 3k ohms. Make sure that the inside of the cap is clean and that the carbon tip that pushes against the ignition rotor is in good shape. Does your hall sensor shutter wheel have 5 shutter windows or just one? If you use a "stubby" hall sensor, then your "timing" will be different from where it was with the "long" hall sensor... so you will have to readjust the distributor position to compensate for the stubby sensor.
+Thomas EXOVCDS it has 5 windows but the one i got from the store came whit only 1 well i have 2 eurovans same year (93) just that 1 is auto and the other manual so i switched the distributor and the problem still but i havent check the wires! and the rotor. another ?? is the distributor the same for the autos and the manuals?
+ZUICIDEBOY777 Yes, I believe the distributor is the same. A one window shutter is used on engines that have a crank sensor.... the engine will run with the hall sensor unplugged. You can not use a one window distributor on an engine that does not have a crank sensor and you can not use a 5 window distributor on an engine that has a crank sensor.
+Thomas EXOVCDS ;'( hate those BAP store guys they told me was the same so now what shut i do if i already install the 1 window distributor but i remove i and put the old one by the way you knw where can i get the hall sender unit like the one is inside in the distributor !
+ZUICIDEBOY777 Your old distributor hall sensor was working (you have spark from coil). If the hall sensor were bad, you would not have spark from coil. Put the old one back in and check your wires & rotor. A hall sensor from a 1990 jetta or golf will work in the eurovan... when you find / buy one, make sure that is the big style (sensor is 180 across from the harness plug). i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzQ2WDYwMA==/z/pQoAAOxyRNJSfpWW/$T2eC16h,!zYFIcTNiv5BBSfpWWn)M!~~60_35.JPG
Will a 93 distributor work in a 95 T4? From the looks of it, yes. They look exactly the same. My T4 has the hall sensor in 1 piece whereas the 93's I've seen has the donut type. If the 93's work that would mean I'd have to install it 180 degrees from my original 95, right?
Yes, because the actual hall sensor is 180 out, you'll have to do some tweaking to get things working... and since the spacing of the shutter wheel (open / closed window) is opposite (open window on one side, closed window on the other side) it will take some doing. I have not had the time to figure things out myself, so I can't say what exactly is involved. At best, just having to rotate the distributor more or moving plug wires one cap post in whichever direction. At worst, flipping the drive gear 180 on the shaft and all of the above.
Es un video muy interesante muchas gracias, me podrian decir donde puedo conseguir ese tipo de distribuidor ya que tengo problemas con el mio que esta adaptado y no es el original, gracias.
Sí lo conseguiste amigo ya que mi eurovan es 2.5 con el encendido de media luna y ya quiero quitar ese encendido y hacerlo como en el vídeo pero no sé dónde se pueda conseguir el distribuidor o adaptarlo
I have a 93 EV that was running perfect and died on me. Ended up replacing hall sensor but since that time the engine intermittently misfires. I am not certain that the mechanic art timing correctly which is something I am checking on as well as ensuring wires were placed in right order. That said, your title of the video describes my issue. Once engine runs for a minute and is under load (accelerating or on highway) it really cuts out a lot like there is no spark to burn the fuel. At idle when warm you can hear it cut out as well. Do you think the hall sensor I installed could be faulty? Interesting it ran great for years and just stalled, but when replacing sensor it only partially fixed the issue. I was told as long as it has signal it is good. I definitely have ignition and coil signal. And signal at the sensor but not savvy enough to know if that is where I should stop and move onto another component or if there is signal then I should focus on getting timing right assuming mehanic put wires back in proper order when he replaced cap and rotor. Thank you for the videos
+Sean Robinson If a plug wire were placed wrong, that would mean 2 cylinders are not firing at the correct time... the engine would run rough / bad "all the time". I doubt that is the case. If it starts to get rough as the O2 sensor is taken into account, could be a lazy / stuck O2 sensor. Monitor O2 ssor voltage & fuel pressure to see if you can narrow things down. Ignition system should be fine, but the only way to be sure is to scope the ignition patterns.
Thank you, I confirmed today that distributor is rotated 180 wrong by mechanic, though funny enough long before this issue I corrected same thing from a previous timing belt replacement. I lined up crank and checked cam window on gear and was perfect. Removed cap and the Ete points at 11 o'clock. #1 plug is in right place and others as well at least in terms of correct firing order even with 180 off...will advise once we get back to normal. Either way timing definitely off, I don't have a light and will get help to correct. Also checking under wiring harness for vacuum to ECU to be 100% sure. Will update here, sure appreciate your videos and will check other relay link you sent as well. Thanks
Sean Robinson Distributor orientation is not 100% critical, as long as firing order is correct and the actual timing is where it should be. I see many 4 cylinder distributors that are indexed wrong, but as long as the plug wires are placed correctly and timing is correct... it's a non issue. You are correct though in sorting that out first, as it makes further troubleshooting easier.
if you have spark originated around the problem that retailers without long as the rotor and No fault was the failure to take all the retailer that I get for not knowing, that as a result it took me to put the item be lost again times since then and tried to turn it on and does not turn nad anything that makes me sad because that truck is my working tool in rrato when a friend arrives will try to do the firing order that you just provided me and if you have another trick and turn it on I would appreciate all the info you can give me thank you very much sir thomas and congratulations on being a mechanic is not easy eurovan at least in my country Venezuela is nadien know the mechanics of this truck look like the a spaceship and dare not repair
GOOD NIGHT FRIEND COULD YOU TELL ME ON THE ORDER OF A VW 2.5 1993 GL EUROVAN BECAUSE THE HAVE it can be indented by ON WHY NOT TAKE THAT AS DISTRIBUTOR IN YOUR VIDEO AND VI LOST TIME TRUCK WILL NOT START AND I DO NOT KNOW ANYONE KNOW WHY IS THE ONLY TRUCK 2.5 EROVAN VENEZUELA IN 1993 THERE THANKS TO YOUR VIDEOS AND LEARNED MUCH OF THIS VEHICLE TO THANK YOU LORD THOMAS GOODNIGHT GO GREETINGS FROM VENEZUELA
I record while I work... my videos are an overview of what needs to be done. If you can't follow along / make sense of what is going on, then the problem is not with the video. If you have questions / need help... ask.
has 5 but thanks to God and your support to achieve the just turn but now has another fuel fails me way too wet spark plugs and not have to turn off the fuel pump try a few times and then turned again placed him fucible pump Station and stays on but the vehicle does not have performance chokes and loses strength makes to turn off but still on what and I noticed is that possibly not regulating the amounts of fuel and do not know what could be if usteb could I help would be great if it were not for you not out on you sir thomas now have a friend in Venezuela jejejejej
Spark plugs are wet because no spark or because spark at wrong time. Ignition Coil is common failure. Test Ignition Coil like this: VW A3: Ignition Coil & Power Output Stage Quick Check (helping a viewer) Test ECM control of coil like this: VW T3: Vanagon Checking for Spark Part 1 (Cranks OK but does not start / no spark)
Sorry... I did not understand correctly. Can you attach a fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail? If pressure drops after you turn the key off, then maybe a fuel injector is leaking.
Добрый день! Какой из датчиков Холла, стоит на AAF 2.5 ? 1 - www.electric-service.ru/upload/iblock/46b/46b7022137c0dcebaaf6753349c12dca.jpg 2 - online.avtolider-ua.com/item_image/al/1191400300_i_pid_63.jpg
Thank you so much for this awesome video! Gonna replace my hall sensor soon and let you know if it fixed my problem, that sometimes my van just runs on 4 cylinders, anything else is already replaced
When the hall sensor is bad... the engine will NOT run at all. If your engine is only running on 4 cylinders sometimes... look for a spark plug wire or distributor cap issue.
As said, anything else is replaced, even the ecu and the harness checked and rebuilt. There are people saying the hall sensor can die in a process, so it gets worse from time to time and your video, showing the magnetic field decreases, and a new one has enormous magnetic strength, actually proofes that
Thanks! So the main issue is on autogas (lpg) he seems to stutter sometimes, since about half a year, without any logic or reason behind it. Appears completely random. I thought it was an autogas issue and then drove mainly on petrol. Now since a week I have exactly the same stuttering also on petrol, like he's not running on all cylinders, but JUST if I drive quickly in right curves. Left curves show no issue. Could this be caused by the hall sensor? I checked anything engine related, timing with vcds done several times, replaced new parts with old parts again, still no change. Hall sensor is the last to do, besides that any sensor, the entire exhaust is new, throttle and hoses cleaned, vacuum hoses also changed, ecu changed. It's just a weird thing that it's just on right turns, it can't be the fuel or the fuel pump (which is also new as it completely failed 1,5 years ago) as it appears also using autogas. No errors in the ecu, by the way
If the vehicle is sensitive to body lean (left or right)... look for wiring / wiring harness issues (flexing, bending, pinching of wiring). If you are in Europe, check if your engine has a Crankshaft Position Sensor.... here in North America, the T4's never had a crank sensor. If the engine has a crank sensor, then the hall sensor can be left disconnected and the engine should still run... which can then rule-out the hall sensor as the issue.
Den kompletten motorkabelbaum hab ich schon ziemlich durch, auch alles durch gemessen, die Stränge an Knicken aufgemacht um zu sehen ob vielleicht ein Kabel gequetscht ist, scheint aber alles gut zu sein. Mein acu, auch 94, hat keinen OT Geber. English version: I've checked the entire engine wiring and couldn't find any issues, also measured the cables, but none is cracked or blocked or stripped or anything. Don't have a crank shaft sensor, also 1994 acu. I first thought he wouldn't inject, I'm still not sure. Can it be told from hearing or feeling if he either doesn't inject, or doesn't spark?
+Michael Adams Sorry, this is one of my older videos... I record while I work. I can't spend time talking about everything I do. I make an effort to talk more in my newer videos (feel free to view samples) and I add text overlay so you can read about the important points. If you have questions... well, as you can see... I take the time to answer them. I even supply service info when I have it. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I have a punch set and I just grab whatever size fits... if the base (where the pin is) is metal, support that end in a vice or a bench and tap the pin out.
***** Hello Thomas, Bought a 3mm driver, and with it I've managed to tap the pin out, and replaced the hall sensor. Hopefully the not starting and stalling while driving problems are over, but time will tell. Thank you for your video and help :D Greetings.
The video glasses don't always look where my eyes are looking... One day, when I quit my day job, I can take the time to use a tripod and frame every scene correctly. Thanks for watching!
Thank you once again for this video and your help. Was traveling and just back to finish this job. Never could get the van to run when mechanic swapped hall sensor. I bought OEM distributor on eBay, and swapped entire unit, fired right up and runs. My conclusion is that either the hall sensor didn't match the windows you mention in the video or maybe the fact that the rotor wasn't sitting on the distributor very well, didn't have that snug feel to it, though was not loose or anything. Not 100% sure, but I certainly learned a ton from your video. Thank you for providing this. I will message you with any future issues and happy to donate to the cause for sound advice. Thank youSean
+Sean Robinson Thank your for the update!
good morning friend thomas and remove the vacuum hose regulator precione fuel and the truck will not turn off not noticed any difference still on thank you very much for all the information you gave me to me to have been a great help
I am trying to find someone to help us communicate better... someone who can write to you in Spanish.
Hello Thomas,
I have a question, which tool did you use for getting the pin out of the plastic wheel thing? Around 6:00
Which size is the shaft? I have a 3.9mm driving punch, but I believe the clip is around 3.7mm., Or did you do it with a 3mm driving punch?
I have a Golf Mk3 with a 1.6 ABU engine, and my hall sensor needs replacing, I have a brand-new bosch hall sensor but I can't get the pin out so I can't replace it.
The hall sensor works, but sometimes it stalls or just won't start up, if I reconnect the connector on the hall sensor it starts fine, checked the cables and the looked fine and also tried to wobble it a bit but didn't stall or something, so I believe it is the hall sensor itself.
I hope you can help me, thanks.
Greetings,
Dude, you are awesome - I just subscribed!
Two weeks ago I watched your mk5 clutch replacement, just replaced the clutch and transmission on an 07 Rabbit I bought, got rid of the dual mass flywheel and installed a 2012 jetta transmission - works great.
Today I bought a 1993 Eurovan 2.5 gas with 13,000 original miles - its been sitting in a garage for many years and is currently not running / starting. Tossed a new battery in it and it cranks over well, and i smell plenty of gas (although its likely bad by now) but no sputtering or anything. I'm assuming I have no spark. Will also have to check timing, likely has never had the belt changed, but sounds to have good compression.
Plan on watching a bunch of these videos and hopefully tear into it this weekend and get her going. Thanks for the insight!
Congrats on your purchases and thanks for watching my videos!
+Thomas EXOVCDS After watching a few vids I tore into it today. Getting correct voltage everywhere that I can trace, down to the distributor. Coil is sending spark but none of the wires are sending it off to the plugs. Assuming bad Hall Sensor? Will likely replace it as an assembly with the dizzy/cap/rotor since I can get it that way for less than the sensor alone.
Thanks again for the knowledge :) !
jeTTaTurbO How many windows in the distributor? The windows for the hall sensor? The coil is sparking when cranking? Then the hall sensor should be ok.. unless you have a crank sensor, then the coil is firing because of it. If you have 5 windows in the distributor, then you don't have a crank sensor. If spark is coming out of the coil but not out of the distributor, make sure that the distributor is turning... or that the spark is not grounding out inside of the distributor cap.
***** Thanks for the reply! Havent had a ton of time to mess with it until today.
I put in a new distributor assembly with hall sensor, cap and rotor but no go. I think I might have misdiagnosed it. I am getting spark at the plug but seems rather weak.
Swapped out coil with known good one, no difference. Van has sat roughly 10-15 years so I syphoned out what I could of the fuel and put in 5 gallons of 93 oct, and changed fuel filter and spark plugs (everything still original 1993)
It will sputter for a second when first trying to start, then just cycle over. With starting fluid it will cough a bit. Fuel pump seems to be putting out good pressure. It wants to run.
Unsure where to look. Timing, gelled fuel in the line/injectors?
Thanks again Thomas! :)
@@jeTTaTurbO Any luck/resolutions? You did great work so far. Thank you!
Do the hall senders tend to stop working/going out when they get hot? Still battling a misfire/loss of power when it’s warm. Have replaced coil, map sensor, plugs, next is hall sender. Was going to do the thing where you touch the cables together but i feel like that can’t solve it.
On Eurovans, when the hall sensor goes bad it usually ends with a stalling or no start (cranks ok) situation. I have not seen one that causes misfires. It would affect all cylinders and run really rough (if at all).
@@EXOVCDS it has been missing then stalling when warm, the most recent time it wouldn’t start back up but i went back after a few days and cranked it and it fired up. I’m at a loss, have done basically everything. You have any suggestions ?
@Jkidd123
When it doesn't start, check for spark from the coil wire (remove from center of distributor cap and hold it close to a clean metal surface, have someone crank the engine with the ignition key). If you have spark, then the hall sensor is ok.
If you have no spark, either the hall sensor is bad or the coil is bad.
Trigger the hall sensor signal wire manually to see if the coil produces spark.
If yes, then the hall sensor is bad, if no, then the coil is bad.
To trigger the hall sensor signal wire... disconnect the hall sensor plug, ignition on, attach a test light to battery negative, briefly touch the tip of the test light to the middle pin of the 3 pin hall sensor wiring harness connector. Every time the test light touches the center pin, spark should jump from the coil wire.
@@EXOVCDS okay thank you i will try this. Just seems odd to me this happens when i drove it has warmed up or the temperature outside is warm. I just replaced the coil with a new one last week so i doubt it’s the coil. It’s always with light throttle pulling out it starts bucking and shuttering and missing and when i press the pedal it starts missing even worse. It almost seems like it’s down on power as well because my foot would be almost to the floor and the rpms would hardly be climbing when i was driving. The last time it did this i kept trying to limp it into a parking spot when it was acting up but it finally just would crank and not start. Came back out to it 3 days later and cranked it and it started and was able to move it into a parking spot. My only other thought is fuel pump but when fuel pumps go bad they normally don’t work at all. Is this correct ?
@Jkidd123
Like I said, I doubt it's a hall sensor issue, I'm just telling you how to eliminate it as a suspect.
Most likely you have bad ignition wires or moisture in the distributor cap.
Hello, luv your videos. But i have a question. My 2.5 avt idling bad when warm and have problem with stare while warm. I checked the 51 group in vcds and the camshaft speed was constant 672rpm. I dont know what to think. Just assume that sender value is 0 and its broken?
What year AVT?
It looks like the AVT engine has a crankshaft position sensor. Here in North America, the 2.5L engines did not come with crankshaft position sensors. The ECM only uses the distributor hall sensor signal to run the engine.
Ghost values in VCDS with the engine off... can be normal. I usually see 250rpm when the engine is off.
It could be that you have a failing hall sensor in the distributor... messing up the sync between cam & crank.
Disconnect the hall sensor at the distributor (you should still be able to start & run the engine).
Drive for a few days with the sensor disconnected to see if things change. If yes, replace the sensor.
@@EXOVCDS this is 2000 EU, today i checked the voltage at the hall sender plug, there is 5V at the source and GND on the other side. Engine didn't start after Hall disconnection. After ignition the vcds says that the is 900 rpms and engine keeeps after that, when engine gets warm the value starts to decrease to around that 630 RPM and starts stalling pull out the misfire at cyl.1 and lean mixture error. I started to worry about valves condition
@pawbre0028 Do a compression test and a leakdown test to check valves.
@@EXOVCDS today I made a smoke leak test of intake and I found that one of the peteol injectors got leakage on the edge. It's on cylinder nr 1 (the same that vcds shows misfire on). Tomorrow probably I will make some compression test and I will try to seal that leak. Is it necessary to dismount the intake manifold to repair it?
Thank you very much for whole support! Greetings from Poland!
Thank you for the update.
My coworker is from Poland. =)
It looks like the fuel rail can be taken off without having to remove the intake manifold.
I google searched for an AVT picture.
rbcdn.hu/b/202105.98.34084616_1024x768/volkswagen-transporter-t4-volkswagen-t4-multivan-avt-2.5-85kw-motor-22786785.jpg
Hi there, I have a 97 T4 with 2.5 petrol AET type engine and I have an intermittent problem. Some times it can have a total power loss, gauges stop, engine stalls but if it happens while driving car just restarts, if it happens at lights you need to restart with the key. Tends to happen more often in hotter weather or in heavy traffic or at cruise on the freeway. Can't get any error codes when mechanic checks and he has tried leaving car running for long periods in the hope that it happens and leaves a code but without success. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Really like your videos and have found them helpful. You really know your way around these vans. Thank you for your time and regards from Australia.
Hi, thanks for watching! Sounds like the ECM is cutting out momentarily (I could be wrong)... that would explain why there are no fault codes (the ECM is not awake to catch a problem). It's basically like turning the key off and on again while the engine is running. If it only happens one time per week, it will be difficult to track down... the more often it happens, the better chance of finding what the problem is. Does this engine have a crankshaft position sensor? The 2.5L engines here in North America, did not come with one. A faulty crank sensor should set a code though, and usually causes a vehicle to not start for several minutes once it acts up.
***** Thank you for the quick reply. That does make sense with the ECM. Not sure about crank sensor but will check with my mechanic and get back to you soon. Again thank you for your time and thoughts.
good afternoon friend's truck and on but drowning by having much fuel passage and the coil and the distributor was tested and works properly and let me know if that happens Do you would know why it happens? that I realized that that depress the fuel hose with pliers to decrease precione Station and the truck improved its performance could ponerce up but with some failure of fuel Injection
Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator... check for fuel in the vacuum hose.
***** good morning friend thomas and remove the vacuum hose regulator precione fuel and the truck will not turn off not noticed any difference still on thank you very much for all the information you gave me to me to have been a great help
What year is this for? My 2003 has two hall sensors on the side on the block, not in the distributor cap
Those are probably knock sensors. North American Eurovans only had 2.8L VR6 engines in 2003 (last year for Eurovan). 2.5L inline 5 cylinder till 97... I think.
@@EXOVCDS my.mechanic told me they are cam shaft position sensors, also known as hall sensors...
I changed one of them but engine light still on so ordered the other
So you have a VR6 with 2 cam sensors. If the engine has chain noise, sensors won't fix it.
@@EXOVCDS no chain noise (thankfully) just the damn engine light and code reader said cam shaft position sensor. Hopefully second sensor replacement fixes it
@@bryankuderman945 the oil control valves for the camshafts can become stuck, resulting in camshaft sensor fault codes. To change them, the intake manifold and upper chain cover have to be removed... if the new cam sensors don't solve it, I would check them next.
Great video, just did mine with the issue described. I have an issue where the one supplied (Hall Sensor) is different to the one installed (Stubby). Changed it as you have shown, and the same unit. Would I need to move the Dizzy 180 degrees as the sensor is on the other side and the harness connector is opposite? Appreciate and love the @How to's@. Thanks in advance for the help.
If the distributor was timed to the stubby engine, then you need to rotate the distributor until the hall sensor is in a position where the shutter wheel is in the same place (window open or closed) as the stubby was. If the stubby was at 6 o'clock with an open window and the new sensor is at 12 o' clock with a closed window... rotate the distributor until an open window is at the sensor. Engine should start and then you can adjust timing.
Excellent, all done and running!! Just need to get the timing set up. If was not for guys like you sharing this to the global audience this job would have cost me $$$$$'s. Thanks again and keep making those videos.
Huw Rees Thank you and thank you for the update.
i just go to this video when i want some audible background noise. it's relaxing :)
do you know if its possible to fix the hall sensor without replacing it? (talking about thing like soldering etc.) not sure what goes wrong with it
No... the transistor that is inside of it can't be accessed for replacement. You've narrowed it down the the sensor? A bad sensor will cause the engine to stall / not start. In North America, the 2.5l did not have a crank sensor... on the models that do have a crank sensor, the engine will run if the cam sensor / hall sensor fails. Have you checked cam / crank belt timing? If your distributor moved... you could have retarded timing which could be causing your power issue.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Hmm.. ok. Yeah I think it's the hall sensor. seems like it costs alot for such a small part www.amazon.com/Bosch-1237031296-Impulse-Sender/dp/B001CO18IQ but there's also some cheap ebay part www.ebay.com/itm/HALL-PICK-UP-SENSOR-ASSEMBLY-1237031296-12303200-CM77299808-FF-/271985960255?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 not sure about the quality though. haven't checked the timing yet. I noticed that you're replacing the whole metal plate + hall sensor, but the one's I found just come with the sensor, is this a problem? Also, I was reading somewhere that you have to be really careful to not damage some kind of connector or wires somewhere when removing it/dissasembling the distributor?
+Žanas Tumasonis The sensors you have listed are the "stubby" style... they will NOT work on the Eurovan. Yes, they will fit / mount into place, but because of "where the sensor is located", it will generate a signal at the wrong time. The stubby sensor has the "sensor" right at the connector... the Eurovan hall sensor is On the other side of the distributor / hall sensor connector. It has to be in the same place in order to keep the timing siganl correct for the ECM. It's the wiring from the connector that goes to the sensor that can get pinched / break if not handled correctly: partsforcar-2013.co.uk/czesci/030%20905%20065%20B.jpg
+Thomas EXOVCDS Having some hard time finding the full part... started googling with german words like hallgeber or impulsgeber to find the correct part but I dont totally understand what these guys are talking about since google translate obviously wont translate all of it, where did you get the part from? www.t4forum.de/wbb3/board19-technik-bereich/board119-fahrzeug-unterhalt/board7-wartung-instandsetzung-bullim%C3%A4ngel/160712-aaf-z%C3%BCndverteiler-hallgeber-defekt/
+Žanas Tumasonis If the engine is running, the hall sensor is most likely ok... like I said, when they fail, they usually are dead = no spark. Crank the engine while looking for spark from the coil wire (remove from distributor cap and hold 1/8 to 1/4" from a clean engine ground). If you see consistent strong spark, hall sensor, coil, ecm control of coill are ok. I'm currently at work... won't have time to read links / check back with you that often, sorry.
What is it that you are spraying to clean the oil spill
Nice shots of workbench.would help if better video of where you are actually working.
Hmm, if you know what the new part looks like and you know where the old one is located... it shouldn't be too difficult to figure out what needs to be done, to remove / install it. So sorry my video was not able to help you.
I just picked up my first VW T4 van 1995 model . I hope you can help. It loses power going up hills no guts at all.
If you can help thank you in advance
Roc
Standard or automatic? Do the rpms climb... but the speed does not increase? Does it happen all the time hen going up a hill? In which gear (standard or auto)? While the engine & transmission are still cold or only when war or both? The more info I have the better I can "guess" what the problem might be.
@@EXOVCDS it's a 5 cylinder manual, it's been hot when it does it. Someone mentioned the pressure hoses?
@@rockyroc8018 I don't know what that means (pressure hoses). If the clutch isn't slipping, then I would check / make sure that fuel pressure is OK. Have you driven standard vehicles before? Any weird noises? Excessive engine "pinging / knocking" will cause the ECM to retard ignition timing. Again, the more info I have, the better I can guess.
OK thank you I'll keep in touch near the end of next week if that's OK.
Thank you so much, love you Chanel
@@rockyroc8018 OK, thanks for watching!
Que tal Misael me podrias decir donde puedo conseguir ese distribuidor mecanico de defletor de cinco. Te agradecere la información.
www.vanagain.com/shop/ignition-distributor-023905205b
Una pregunta y si lo pudieron conseguir y en qué precio
hello thomas! i have a 93 vw eurovan 5 speed the problem is that spark is going inside the distribuitor but is not coming out to the sparkplugs and when it does the whole motor sounds to weak if i press gas shuts off so i replace the hall sender sensor but the one that i got is just one piece doesnt have the wires and the magnetic field is atached close to the 3 way conector so once i finish the installation it does start but still weak not even to move the van because it shut off rite away so i took the sensor back to BAP autoparts the told me that it is the rite one but my concern is that it looks very diff from the one thta it comes in my distribuitor !
Make sure that the ignition wires do not have high resistance... as well as the ignition rotor. Ignition wires, 4k to 6k ohms each, ignition rotor 2k to 3k ohms. Make sure that the inside of the cap is clean and that the carbon tip that pushes against the ignition rotor is in good shape.
Does your hall sensor shutter wheel have 5 shutter windows or just one?
If you use a "stubby" hall sensor, then your "timing" will be different from where it was with the "long" hall sensor... so you will have to readjust the distributor position to compensate for the stubby sensor.
+Thomas EXOVCDS it has 5 windows but the one i got from the store came whit only 1 well i have 2 eurovans same year (93) just that 1 is auto and the other manual so i switched the distributor and the problem still but i havent check the wires! and the rotor. another ?? is the distributor the same for the autos and the manuals?
+ZUICIDEBOY777 Yes, I believe the distributor is the same.
A one window shutter is used on engines that have a crank sensor.... the engine will run with the hall sensor unplugged.
You can not use a one window distributor on an engine that does not have a crank sensor and you can not use a 5 window distributor on an engine that has a crank sensor.
+Thomas EXOVCDS ;'( hate those BAP store guys they told me was the same so now what shut i do if i already install the 1 window distributor but i remove i and put the old one by the way you knw where can i get the hall sender unit like the one is inside in the distributor !
+ZUICIDEBOY777 Your old distributor hall sensor was working (you have spark from coil). If the hall sensor were bad, you would not have spark from coil.
Put the old one back in and check your wires & rotor.
A hall sensor from a 1990 jetta or golf will work in the eurovan... when you find / buy one, make sure that is the big style (sensor is 180 across from the harness plug).
i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzQ2WDYwMA==/z/pQoAAOxyRNJSfpWW/$T2eC16h,!zYFIcTNiv5BBSfpWWn)M!~~60_35.JPG
Will a 93 distributor work in a 95 T4? From the looks of it, yes. They look exactly the same. My T4 has the hall sensor in 1 piece whereas the 93's I've seen has the donut type. If the 93's work that would mean I'd have to install it 180 degrees from my original 95, right?
Yes, because the actual hall sensor is 180 out, you'll have to do some tweaking to get things working... and since the spacing of the shutter wheel (open / closed window) is opposite (open window on one side, closed window on the other side) it will take some doing. I have not had the time to figure things out myself, so I can't say what exactly is involved. At best, just having to rotate the distributor more or moving plug wires one cap post in whichever direction. At worst, flipping the drive gear 180 on the shaft and all of the above.
is there a special trick on punching out that metal rod?
+Žanas Tumasonis The drive pin? Newer / better video here: th-cam.com/video/TDulM8Uix9Y/w-d-xo.html
Es un video muy interesante muchas gracias, me podrian decir donde puedo conseguir ese tipo de distribuidor ya que tengo problemas con el mio que esta adaptado y no es el original, gracias.
www.vanagain.com/shop/ignition-distributor-023905205b
Sí lo conseguiste amigo ya que mi eurovan es 2.5 con el encendido de media luna y ya quiero quitar ese encendido y hacerlo como en el vídeo pero no sé dónde se pueda conseguir el distribuidor o adaptarlo
I have a 93 EV that was running perfect and died on me. Ended up replacing hall sensor but since that time the engine intermittently misfires. I am not certain that the mechanic art timing correctly which is something I am checking on as well as ensuring wires were placed in right order. That said, your title of the video describes my issue. Once engine runs for a minute and is under load (accelerating or on highway) it really cuts out a lot like there is no spark to burn the fuel. At idle when warm you can hear it cut out as well. Do you think the hall sensor I installed could be faulty? Interesting it ran great for years and just stalled, but when replacing sensor it only partially fixed the issue. I was told as long as it has signal it is good. I definitely have ignition and coil signal. And signal at the sensor but not savvy enough to know if that is where I should stop and move onto another component or if there is signal then I should focus on getting timing right assuming mehanic put wires back in proper order when he replaced cap and rotor. Thank you for the videos
+Sean Robinson If a plug wire were placed wrong, that would mean 2 cylinders are not firing at the correct time... the engine would run rough / bad "all the time". I doubt that is the case. If it starts to get rough as the O2 sensor is taken into account, could be a lazy / stuck O2 sensor. Monitor O2 ssor voltage & fuel pressure to see if you can narrow things down. Ignition system should be fine, but the only way to be sure is to scope the ignition patterns.
+Sean Robinson Have you seen this video?
th-cam.com/video/HdedLiPvU-s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you, I confirmed today that distributor is rotated 180 wrong by mechanic, though funny enough long before this issue I corrected same thing from a previous timing belt replacement. I lined up crank and checked cam window on gear and was perfect. Removed cap and the Ete points at 11 o'clock. #1 plug is in right place and others as well at least in terms of correct firing order even with 180 off...will advise once we get back to normal. Either way timing definitely off, I don't have a light and will get help to correct. Also checking under wiring harness for vacuum to ECU to be 100% sure. Will update here, sure appreciate your videos and will check other relay link you sent as well. Thanks
Sean Robinson Distributor orientation is not 100% critical, as long as firing order is correct and the actual timing is where it should be. I see many 4 cylinder distributors that are indexed wrong, but as long as the plug wires are placed correctly and timing is correct... it's a non issue.
You are correct though in sorting that out first, as it makes further troubleshooting easier.
Thank you. I will advise. Appreciate your fast replies, extremely grateful as I am not a very good mechanic
if you have spark originated around the problem that retailers without long as the rotor and No fault was the failure to take all the retailer that I get for not knowing, that as a result it took me to put the item be lost again times since then and tried to turn it on and does not turn nad anything that makes me sad because that truck is my working tool in rrato when a friend arrives will try to do the firing order that you just provided me and if you have another trick and turn it on I would appreciate all the info you can give me thank you very much sir thomas and congratulations on being a mechanic is not easy eurovan at least in my country Venezuela is nadien know the mechanics of this truck look like the a spaceship and dare not repair
How many "windows" does the sensor wheel have? 5 or 1?
fkh161.ca/VW/wheel.jpg
Do you have spark? Spark yes, or spark no?
buenos dias!! muy buen video maestro...... un favor muy grande....me puede proporcinar el diagrama electrico estaria infinitamente agradecido...
Más que eso como iso la adaptación de los pines para el encendido convencional electrónico ya que el distribuidor original es de media luna
very nice showing
Thank you for watching!
GOOD NIGHT FRIEND COULD YOU TELL ME ON THE ORDER OF A VW 2.5 1993 GL EUROVAN BECAUSE THE HAVE it can be indented by ON WHY NOT TAKE THAT AS DISTRIBUTOR IN YOUR VIDEO AND VI LOST TIME TRUCK WILL NOT START AND I DO NOT KNOW ANYONE KNOW WHY IS THE ONLY TRUCK 2.5 EROVAN VENEZUELA IN 1993 THERE THANKS TO YOUR VIDEOS AND LEARNED MUCH OF THIS VEHICLE TO THANK YOU LORD THOMAS GOODNIGHT GO GREETINGS FROM VENEZUELA
fkh161.ca/VW/AAF.png
1-2-4-5-3
Do you have spark?
not red coolant for vw ?
Does not have to be on the old engines.
Cant see half of what is being done
I record while I work... my videos are an overview of what needs to be done. If you can't follow along / make sense of what is going on, then the problem is not with the video. If you have questions / need help... ask.
has 5 but thanks to God and your support to achieve the just turn but now has another fuel fails me way too wet spark plugs and not have to turn off the fuel pump try a few times and then turned again placed him fucible pump Station and stays on but the vehicle does not have performance chokes and loses strength makes to turn off but still on what and I noticed is that possibly not regulating the amounts of fuel and do not know what could be if usteb could I help would be great if it were not for you not out on you sir thomas now have a friend in Venezuela jejejejej
Spark plugs are wet because no spark or because spark at wrong time. Ignition Coil is common failure.
Test Ignition Coil like this:
VW A3: Ignition Coil & Power Output Stage Quick Check (helping a viewer)
Test ECM control of coil like this:
VW T3: Vanagon Checking for Spark Part 1 (Cranks OK but does not start / no spark)
Sorry... I did not understand correctly.
Can you attach a fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail? If pressure drops after you turn the key off, then maybe a fuel injector is leaking.
Attach fuel gauge like this: (at cold start valve location)
VW T4: 2.5L No Start (checking fuel pressure)
Добрый день!
Какой из датчиков Холла, стоит на AAF 2.5 ?
1 - www.electric-service.ru/upload/iblock/46b/46b7022137c0dcebaaf6753349c12dca.jpg
2 - online.avtolider-ua.com/item_image/al/1191400300_i_pid_63.jpg
в моем видео, для моего дистрибьютора, это номер 2
online.avtolider-ua.com/item_image/al/1191400300_i_pid_63.jpg
в 7:43, сколько окон у вашего колеса?
@@EXOVCDS для 5 цилиндров, как у меня, должно быть 5 окон.
если в двигателе есть датчик положения коленвала, то в трамблере будет только 1 окошко. Если окон 5, то нужен датчик холла №2.
@@EXOVCDS вот именно!А у меня стоит с 5 окнами, №1!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this awesome video!
Gonna replace my hall sensor soon and let you know if it fixed my problem, that sometimes my van just runs on 4 cylinders, anything else is already replaced
When the hall sensor is bad... the engine will NOT run at all. If your engine is only running on 4 cylinders sometimes... look for a spark plug wire or distributor cap issue.
As said, anything else is replaced, even the ecu and the harness checked and rebuilt. There are people saying the hall sensor can die in a process, so it gets worse from time to time and your video, showing the magnetic field decreases, and a new one has enormous magnetic strength, actually proofes that
Thanks! So the main issue is on autogas (lpg) he seems to stutter sometimes, since about half a year, without any logic or reason behind it. Appears completely random. I thought it was an autogas issue and then drove mainly on petrol.
Now since a week I have exactly the same stuttering also on petrol, like he's not running on all cylinders, but JUST if I drive quickly in right curves. Left curves show no issue. Could this be caused by the hall sensor? I checked anything engine related, timing with vcds done several times, replaced new parts with old parts again, still no change. Hall sensor is the last to do, besides that any sensor, the entire exhaust is new, throttle and hoses cleaned, vacuum hoses also changed, ecu changed. It's just a weird thing that it's just on right turns, it can't be the fuel or the fuel pump (which is also new as it completely failed 1,5 years ago) as it appears also using autogas. No errors in the ecu, by the way
If the vehicle is sensitive to body lean (left or right)... look for wiring / wiring harness issues (flexing, bending, pinching of wiring). If you are in Europe, check if your engine has a Crankshaft Position Sensor.... here in North America, the T4's never had a crank sensor. If the engine has a crank sensor, then the hall sensor can be left disconnected and the engine should still run... which can then rule-out the hall sensor as the issue.
Den kompletten motorkabelbaum hab ich schon ziemlich durch, auch alles durch gemessen, die Stränge an Knicken aufgemacht um zu sehen ob vielleicht ein Kabel gequetscht ist, scheint aber alles gut zu sein. Mein acu, auch 94, hat keinen OT Geber.
English version:
I've checked the entire engine wiring and couldn't find any issues, also measured the cables, but none is cracked or blocked or stripped or anything. Don't have a crank shaft sensor, also 1994 acu.
I first thought he wouldn't inject, I'm still not sure. Can it be told from hearing or feeling if he either doesn't inject, or doesn't spark?
Punching pin out was NOT on screen
Even if it wasn't in the second video... I think it's self explanatory (how to remove the pin).
How about a little commentary for the layman DIY.
+Michael Adams Sorry, this is one of my older videos... I record while I work. I can't spend time talking about everything I do. I make an effort to talk more in my newer videos (feel free to view samples) and I add text overlay so you can read about the important points. If you have questions... well, as you can see... I take the time to answer them. I even supply service info when I have it. Thanks for watching!
I appreciate the feed back. I will look at some of your newer material. You are providing a fantastic service by the way, and I thank you.
ty men
You're welcome. Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
Esta bien tu jale pero noc ve nada we
If you have the new part... simply remove the old part and install the new part. That's what I did.
Hello Thomas,
This is feki122, I logged in on my second account, hopefully this will work.
Could you help me with my questions?
Thank you.
Greetings,
Hi, I have a punch set and I just grab whatever size fits... if the base (where the pin is) is metal, support that end in a vice or a bench and tap the pin out.
***** Hello Thomas,
Bought a 3mm driver, and with it I've managed to tap the pin out, and replaced the hall sensor.
Hopefully the not starting and stalling while driving problems are over, but time will tell.
Thank you for your video and help :D
Greetings.
Etino gard Thank you for the update!
@@etinogard4380 - did this fix your problem?
in my case this black circle split in half when trying to dismount the pin 🤮
Google search:
"Eurovan distributor drive gear" or "Eurovan distributor drive cam kit"
@@EXOVCDS thanks for the info :)
Good work, but your videos need improvement…most of the time I saw your workbench instead of what you were working on. Did learn some stuff.
The video glasses don't always look where my eyes are looking... One day, when I quit my day job, I can take the time to use a tripod and frame every scene correctly. Thanks for watching!
:)