Hi Tricia: Well, that may be the most flattering comment I have ever received. Please let your son know that I appreciate his interest in the Videos. If there's a topic he would like to know more about - I would be happy to make a Video for him - Chris
I have a few Nutone long bell chimes myself. Wow! incredible, I have thoroughly watched your videos servicing these chimes. Thank you for the extreme thorough explanations and demonstrations. I'm learning a lot from your videos.
I don't know if you will ever read this, but I thought it was a terrific and very well made video. I too have this model K44 chime to repair. One difference between your Telechron motor and my customer's mechanism is that my motor shaft was very short. I did not have 6.45 mm of shaft above the disk surface it to measure. It would be better for you to have provided us with the space between the bottom of the disk and motor frame. But, not having this number, I just eye balled it so that the disk-edge landed on the same grooved surface-spot on the on/off switch. Mine is also missing two springs and two of the plungers have striking points made out of oak-wood! So, I still have to make the springs and get all the plungers to work well together. It seems to never end in this type of repair business!! Again, great video and very well explained!
Hi Forensic1Man: I actually read and reply to every comment - Lining up the Rotor with the grove it made in the on/off switch is a good idea. We have replacement Springs available, along with Grommets - Cushions - End Caps and Tip Material - Chris
I think this has to be the last iteration of the k44 base, as it has the solenoid plunger and spring types they used on the L series that replaced the k series. I know you made a "comparison" video on what you thought at that time was a late 50s unit that had the non-metal solenoid bores. It turns out that this major revision they did to the K44 in the 1950s was later than the one in that "comparison" video. We both found out from the K-44 base I found and worked on, where the date code was still on it, which was 1047, indicating October 1947, that that strange non-metallic solenoid bore revision you reviewed in that "comparison" video was a modification occurred in the 40s, not the 50s.
Hi Phillip: I think many of the "changes" you find on Chimes made in 1947 ~ 48 ~ 49 were caused by post WW2 supply issues. Also, since design and manufacturing stopped during the war-years, Chime made in 47 through 49 were basically pre-war Chime, probably made from whatever parts were left over. - Chris
my K44 majestic (from flea market) came with a Rittenhouse model C8933R chime extender. It is a white plastic box, about 5"x3" with three wires coming out of it labeled 'trans', 'front' and 'rear'. Should those wires be connected to the terminal block in the trans, front and rear terminal positions? The chime extender has a four "mini-switches" that program different chime patterns. Are bushings, springs and cushions still available? Prices?
Hi Thewannaramble: I could not find any information about your Rittenhouse "Chime Extender", so I can tell you exactly how to connect it - Connecting it to your NuTone K44 will depend on which version of the K44 you have (early or late) - Some parts are available for the K44 - You will need to contact us directly about the K44 - Chris nscompany@msn.com
Hi, great video. It looks to me like a working light bulb is required to complete the sustain switch circuit. Is that correct? The first solenoid is burnt out, I think because the rear door bell wiring is shorted. My girlfriend just bought a house and wants it to work because she grew up in another house that had a similar door bell. Thanks for the help!
Hi William: There does not need to be a light bulb for the Chem to work correctly. You will need to carefully inspect the switch board contacts - many time solenoids become damaged due to the rotor / contact wear - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567The board is charred between the contacts. How about putting non-conductive dielectric grease on the board between the contacts?
@@billeb420 Nope - The board needs to be repaired to make it smooth again. The pits can be filled with some 2-part epoxy - when thoroughly set (I wait 2 days) the epoxy can be filed smooth - you need to keep the epoxy off the contacts. Chances are that the tip of the contact rotor is also very worn or even split. This needs to be repaired also - holes or splits in the contact rotor can be filled with solder and filed to shape - Chris
I have an two Nutone 1950's space in-wall clock chimes. The original clock stopped working fifteen years ago and was left in the wall still wired. Eventually I was able to find a NOS replacement and installed it. It ran a little noisy and yesterday I pulled it off and found it was very hot. It also was running >5 minutes/day slow. The clock/motor assy is integral and has no access without bending metal tabs, etc. There is a port to the motor, with a clear plastic cover, again accessible by bending tabs only. I have been unable to research this motor but it clearly needs to be cleaned and re-oiled in order to run properly. I think that it will be OK otherwise. Any suggestions on this model before I attempt to bake/re-oil? Is there any risk? The motor and clock assy was very hot to the touch yesterday when removed so I doubt that there is any remaining usable grease inside.
Hi Monte: I would need to see the Clock/Chime and the Clock Motor to see what it is exactly, before recommending what should be done with it - You can contact me directly and send pictures to me at nscompany@msn.com - Chris
@@troywisdom5193 This Video shows how to wire your Chime - th-cam.com/video/TjKUx18TEvc/w-d-xo.html Tis Video is about the type of Transformer you will need - th-cam.com/video/Rhw4aWlONY0/w-d-xo.html Chris
Hi kingofrot: Without more detailed information, I can't really say what's wrong. If the Chime is all original and installed in the same location where it has been for decades - I would suspect that your K47 is simply 'old and tired' - It is unlikely that it is either the Motor or the Transformer - if either of these were truly bad - the Chime wouldn't work even a little bit - Chris
All wiring and transformer and doorbell were removed during a remodel. It was just there as decoration. No wiring diagram to go by. I have run new wiring and a basic doorbell and a hardware store 16v transformer. I followed your refurbishing video and the motor does work.
@@kingofrot You need to watch 2 of our Videos: th-cam.com/video/TjKUx18TEvc/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Rhw4aWlONY0/w-d-xo.html These should get your installation moving in the right direction Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thanks for the response. I'm not sure it's even made by NuTone. There are no markings to indicate the make/model but it is very old. There are 4 solenoids arranged on the same plain (not curved like the video), and there were many wires coming from the wall. At least one for each solenoid (plus others). I cleaned up the solenoids and got them to work but I can't find the motor/contact plate anywhere in the house. It doesn't appear those parts were ever directly mounted to the chimes. I'm thinking of a modern-day redesign but I don't see a power lead for constant power, and batteries would be out of the question. It's for my sister in here new (old) house, so it would be nice to have ready for Christmas.
@@sky173 How old do you think the Chime is? When was the house built? I've seen a GE Chime form a house built in the 1920's that had a remotely mounted "control unit" which consisted of a Motor, Hydraulic Pump, Piston and Contact Assembly which controlled the sequence on the solenoids. The Control box was in a hallway closet and the Chime was in the Entry - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 I'm not sure the age of the house. It was built in Detroit's prime, when the big three were just forming. I'm guessing it was built in the 20's-30's. That's really interesting. A hydraulic pump in a door chime? that's really weird. I'll take a peak around the house and see what I can find. Thanks for all the help. It's really appreciated.
Hi kyle: Yup - however for most people, you can't walk into a store and ask for a can of Naphtha - Lighter Fluid has always been the traditional cleaning fluid for Chimes - Chris
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 86 | คู่เอก "คมเพชร vs ชาติพยัคฆ์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m3q_dRYDuU8/mqdefault.jpg)
My 6 year old son is facinated by your videos and expertise. After a bed time story, we watch them. Thank you!
Hi Tricia: Well, that may be the most flattering comment I have ever received. Please let your son know that I appreciate his interest in the Videos. If there's a topic he would like to know more about - I would be happy to make a Video for him - Chris
I have a few Nutone long bell chimes myself. Wow! incredible, I have thoroughly watched your videos servicing these chimes. Thank you for the extreme thorough explanations and demonstrations. I'm learning a lot from your videos.
I don't know if you will ever read this, but I thought it was a terrific and very well made video. I too have this model K44 chime to repair. One difference between your Telechron motor and my customer's mechanism is that my motor shaft was very short. I did not have 6.45 mm of shaft above the disk surface it to measure. It would be better for you to have provided us with the space between the bottom of the disk and motor frame. But, not having this number, I just eye balled it so that the disk-edge landed on the same grooved surface-spot on the on/off switch. Mine is also missing two springs and two of the plungers have striking points made out of oak-wood! So, I still have to make the springs and get all the plungers to work well together. It seems to never end in this type of repair business!! Again, great video and very well explained!
Hi Forensic1Man: I actually read and reply to every comment - Lining up the Rotor with the grove it made in the on/off switch is a good idea. We have replacement Springs available, along with Grommets - Cushions - End Caps and Tip Material - Chris
I think this has to be the last iteration of the k44 base, as it has the solenoid plunger and spring types they used on the L series that replaced the k series.
I know you made a "comparison" video on what you thought at that time was a late 50s unit that had the non-metal solenoid bores. It turns out that this major revision they did to the K44 in the 1950s was later than the one in that "comparison" video.
We both found out from the K-44 base I found and worked on, where the date code was still on it, which was 1047, indicating October 1947, that that strange non-metallic solenoid bore revision you reviewed in that "comparison" video was a modification occurred in the 40s, not the 50s.
Hi Phillip: I think many of the "changes" you find on Chimes made in 1947 ~ 48 ~ 49 were caused by post WW2 supply issues. Also, since design and manufacturing stopped during the war-years, Chime made in 47 through 49 were basically pre-war Chime, probably made from whatever parts were left over. - Chris
my K44 majestic (from flea market) came with a Rittenhouse model C8933R chime extender. It is a white plastic box, about 5"x3" with three wires coming out of it labeled 'trans', 'front' and 'rear'.
Should those wires be connected to the terminal block in the trans, front and rear terminal positions?
The chime extender has a four "mini-switches" that program different chime patterns.
Are bushings, springs and cushions still available? Prices?
Hi Thewannaramble: I could not find any information about your Rittenhouse "Chime Extender", so I can tell you exactly how to connect it - Connecting it to your NuTone K44 will depend on which version of the K44 you have (early or late) - Some parts are available for the K44 - You will need to contact us directly about the K44 - Chris nscompany@msn.com
Great video! How did you figure out the "bake the motor and suck in the oil" trick? That's slick.
Hi Jim: There used to be a clock shop in town and it's a trick the owner shared with me - Chris
Hi, great video. It looks to me like a working light bulb is required to complete the sustain switch circuit. Is that correct? The first solenoid is burnt out, I think because the rear door bell wiring is shorted. My girlfriend just bought a house and wants it to work because she grew up in another house that had a similar door bell. Thanks for the help!
Hi William: There does not need to be a light bulb for the Chem to work correctly. You will need to carefully inspect the switch board contacts - many time solenoids become damaged due to the rotor / contact wear - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567The board is charred between the contacts. How about putting non-conductive dielectric grease on the board between the contacts?
@@billeb420 Nope - The board needs to be repaired to make it smooth again. The pits can be filled with some 2-part epoxy - when thoroughly set (I wait 2 days) the epoxy can be filed smooth - you need to keep the epoxy off the contacts. Chances are that the tip of the contact rotor is also very worn or even split. This needs to be repaired also - holes or splits in the contact rotor can be filled with solder and filed to shape - Chris
I have an two Nutone 1950's space in-wall clock chimes. The original clock stopped working fifteen years ago and was left in the wall still wired. Eventually I was able to find a NOS replacement and installed it. It ran a little noisy and yesterday I pulled it off and found it was very hot. It also was running >5 minutes/day slow. The clock/motor assy is integral and has no access without bending metal tabs, etc. There is a port to the motor, with a clear plastic cover, again accessible by bending tabs only. I have been unable to research this motor but it clearly needs to be cleaned and re-oiled in order to run properly. I think that it will be OK otherwise. Any suggestions on this model before I attempt to bake/re-oil? Is there any risk? The motor and clock assy was very hot to the touch yesterday when removed so I doubt that there is any remaining usable grease inside.
Hi Monte: I would need to see the Clock/Chime and the Clock Motor to see what it is exactly, before recommending what should be done with it - You can contact me directly and send pictures to me at nscompany@msn.com - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567
Thanks and done!
@@northsideservicecompany3567 I was wondering on how to power this chime, unfortunately I can’t find a wiring diagram for this chime anywhere 😮
@@troywisdom5193 This Video shows how to wire your Chime - th-cam.com/video/TjKUx18TEvc/w-d-xo.html
Tis Video is about the type of Transformer you will need - th-cam.com/video/Rhw4aWlONY0/w-d-xo.html
Chris
My k47 will not cycle unless I hold the button down. Any idea why? Could it be that the motor transformer is shot?
Hi kingofrot: Without more detailed information, I can't really say what's wrong. If the Chime is all original and installed in the same location where it has been for decades - I would suspect that your K47 is simply 'old and tired' - It is unlikely that it is either the Motor or the Transformer - if either of these were truly bad - the Chime wouldn't work even a little bit - Chris
All wiring and transformer and doorbell were removed during a remodel. It was just there as decoration. No wiring diagram to go by. I have run new wiring and a basic doorbell and a hardware store 16v transformer. I followed your refurbishing video and the motor does work.
@@kingofrot You need to watch 2 of our Videos: th-cam.com/video/TjKUx18TEvc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Rhw4aWlONY0/w-d-xo.html
These should get your installation moving in the right direction
Chris
What size grommets are you using?
Hi Remington: The Rubber Grommets are 1/4" ID, 1/16" Groove Width , 9/16" OD - Chris
Does anyone know where I can find a 'revolving' contact plate/motor assembly for the chimes?
Hi Sky173: For which type of NuTone Chime? There are many different types that were used over the decades - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thanks for the response. I'm not sure it's even made by NuTone. There are no markings to indicate the make/model but it is very old. There are 4 solenoids arranged on the same plain (not curved like the video), and there were many wires coming from the wall. At least one for each solenoid (plus others).
I cleaned up the solenoids and got them to work but I can't find the motor/contact plate anywhere in the house. It doesn't appear those parts were ever directly mounted to the chimes. I'm thinking of a modern-day redesign but I don't see a power lead for constant power, and batteries would be out of the question.
It's for my sister in here new (old) house, so it would be nice to have ready for Christmas.
@@sky173 How old do you think the Chime is? When was the house built?
I've seen a GE Chime form a house built in the 1920's that had a remotely mounted "control unit" which consisted of a Motor, Hydraulic Pump, Piston and Contact Assembly which controlled the sequence on the solenoids. The Control box was in a hallway closet and the Chime was in the Entry - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 I'm not sure the age of the house. It was built in Detroit's prime, when the big three were just forming. I'm guessing it was built in the 20's-30's.
That's really interesting. A hydraulic pump in a door chime? that's really weird. I'll take a peak around the house and see what I can find. Thanks for all the help. It's really appreciated.
Ya, know it is naptha though... Wow guess I'm older than the spell check now!
Hi kyle: Yup - however for most people, you can't walk into a store and ask for a can of Naphtha - Lighter Fluid has always been the traditional cleaning fluid for Chimes - Chris