Hi andrew: Be extra carefull with the 2-wires that are connected to the Motor Coil - Don't pull on them or stress them in anyway, otherwise the paper wraping around the coil will tear and the wires will come loose - Chris
Hi, I want to thank you very much for sharing this video! My boyfriend has had this clock for 10 years and it never worked. I was trying to figure out a way to make it disappear! But thanks to you I fixed it and it’s working great!
This video and your instruction is amazing. I was planning to send you my clock so you could repair it because I was a little intimidated and didn't want to break anything or mess it up. But following your steps...my clock is now working after being dormant since 2001. Thank you!!
Thanks i fixed my revere b 13 rotor it was screetching loudly, and noisey and stopped.. used my Oven for a while used tufoil (tpfe)premixed lube at shaft many times it sucked in..moved gear which was frozen at first. Became easier to move.. Multiple trips to the oven and oil.. now the motor is silent.. It has never been silent for the 5 years i have had it.. THANK YOU....
Thank you so much. I have an old Rittenhouse door chime, I'm assuming was installed when the house was built in 1970. The clock hands weren't turing anymore. I considered replacing the motor, but this method worked to loosen up the gear. My clock is keeping time now, and the gear seems to be alot more freed up.
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thanks, I have noticed only one of my end and middle chimes strike anymore (2 of 4). Do you think I'd have any luck giving the chime motor the same treatment and cleaning the contacts on it? Some time when I have time maybe I'll take it down off the wall and try servicing it. -Jared
@@jt9411 If any of the 4-Notes ring, it's not a Motor / Gear Drive issue. It can be dirty / stuck plungers - missing Plunger Tips - Wear and Tear on the Contact Rotor and Circuit Board - All a mix of all of these items - Chris
Your testing helped me out alot as I also had 10-11 Ohms so I was able to determine that was ok and focus on the motor. I used a hot air gun to gentle heat mine. Even though mine did initially turn, you video helped me see if was far from moving as freely as it should.
I have an old GE clock with the same motor, and it doesn't seem to have any continuity between the two legs of the motor windings at all, but it works fine. I had to take it out and heat/lube it because it was making a terrible grinding sound. Hopefully the new clock oil I added will solve the issue. It sounds fine now, but time will tell.
what an incredible clock. Excellent video. I have a hob ahead of me with my doorbell/clock that is sometimes noisy. I will say these clocks are ahead of their time and are incredibly accurate. Who could not like this video??? Thank you so much for sending me the link to this great video
17:08 Great video! I have purchased similar Nutone doorbell clock from a salvage reseller online. I don't think I'm getting the chimes so I want to know if it can be mounted to or inside the wall and used as just a clock? The house has easy access to wiring. The seller says it was working but really not much information about the box and chimes. The house has an old working 2 chime doorbell so it's not needed as a doorbell. We just really love the clock face. Goes so well in our 1959 house!
Hi colleen: The Clock you purchased will operate on it's own just fine. It will require a 16 Volt AC Transformer rated at 15 Watts (VA). The Clock cover would have attached to the Chime Box that was inset in the wall. You will need to find a way to attach the Cover - Chris
I am looking for a new coil for mine, Any ideas where I may be able to purchase one. Great video, it helped me so much. Now just hoping to secure a coil.
Hi pat: Finding coils is beyond difficult, there are no sources that I'm aware of. You have to be carefull when choosing a coil - they were made in many different Voltages. It is not common for the coils to fail, I have only had to replace maybe 2 or 3 in the past 10 years - Chris
Hi danielpena: 22 gauge stranded wire is best - it's more flexible than solid wire - Here's a link to our Video that show how to twist the wires together (looks fancy) - th-cam.com/video/uwO8_LdCfas/w-d-xo.html Chris
I picked up a Telechron recently, it worked for a few seconds then stopped. It's an H3 motor. I tested the coil and sure enough it is now open. I've decided to go with the rewind option for use with low voltage. I'lll feed it with 16V AC from a Dell monitor power supply, puts out 4.5A . I think the new coil will be around 850-1000 turns. There is some information online about the conversion/repair. Hopefully it goes well, the clock looks really nice and I'd like to get it going again. Great video by the way. Oh and for oil I've used it all 3-in-1, Liberty, and Mobil 1 0-30W it's all good. :)
Hi jordanch68: Rewinding the coil seems like quite a project, I hope it works out. What gauge of wire do you plan to use for the coli winding's? - Chris
Hello! I'll be following the guide detailed here: sound.whsites.net/clocks/ocm(dot)html They describe using 0.315mm wire (or 30 SWG, or about 28 AWG). I picked up the 16VAC power supply for about $7-8, I have to check for a source for the wire (probably Mouser or Allied, or online). Coil winders are fairly cheap online (around $30-$40) I may go that route rather than wind it by hand just for speed, efficiency, and accuracy sake. The number of windings seems to be fairly forgiving, I may put a couple different windings and compare them. Before I plugged in the clock the first time I took it apart to check everything, the coil was in bad shape to being with. Someone else had already tried to repair it, it looked like an old repair. Evidence of overheating and charring. But the main thing was the physical damage. The power cord is soldered directly to tabs connected to the windings, if someone ever kicks the cord or it gets snatched by the cord....bad news. I think what happened in this case was that both tabs were snatched free from the coil (they were only hanging on by the windings) and since those metal solder tabs hook half around the coil the back of those solder tabs dug into the back of the coil when they ripped off. I'm surprised it worked after I secured everything even briefly.
Hi Jordanch68: Thanks for the follow up - that's a really good web site with lots of good detailed information. Be sure to let us know which coil winder you decide to go with - it may be something I invest in - Chris
Hello, it will likely be this one: www.ebay(DOT)com/itm/U-S-Solid-Dual-Purpose-Electric-Manual-Hand-Coil-Winder-Winding-Machine-/121356004202?hash=item1c4161ab6a:g:83IAAOSwgY9Xfa5d Or this: www.ebay(DOT)com/itm/Manual-Coil-Winder-Power-Transformer-Winding-Machine-Analog-Counter-/361894082329?hash=item5442917719:g:tTwAAOSwjDZYkCNG I think either would be fine, I think I prefer the counter on the first one though. They seem to sell a lot of them so maybe that's a good sign? :)
Hi Jordanch68: Ah, that's what I thought you might me looking at. It seems like a good price. Fro myself, I would want one with a holder for the wire spool and a tension mechanism for the winding. - Chris
I have had good luck heating the motor with a hair dryer while putting a mixture of WD and 3in1 oil on the stem. Soon you see it bubbling from the expanding air inside coming out. keep the stem under fluid and it will suck in the oil. Do it a couple of times and let it run. Works great. No drilling and getting any metal flakes in the movement.
Hi Chris. Will the L-36 Elite chord tone chime be activated by an Ext Front wire from an L-70 or L-39 4/8 note, 3 bar chime? I understand both chimes need their own transformers. Do you simply run one wire from “Ext front” of the L-70 or L-39 to the “front” terminal of the L-36 or is there another wire that needs to be run? I tried it because I want to connect an L-36 in a bedroom/den as an ext to the main foyer L-70 electronic chime, but it would not trigger the L-36 chime during a bench test. Both chimes had their own separate transformers with common and trans wires properly attached to both chimes. Thanks
Hi Anthony: Like they say - A picture is worth 1000 words. I posted an image on the wiring diagram that show how to connect your 8-Note Chime to you 2-Note Chime. Here's a link: th-cam.com/channels/cMN_sDzaDThDYRBb2Qcahw.htmlcommunity?disable_polymer=1 Chris
@@anthonygentilella683 Explaining how to connect 2 Transformers in Phase is difficult and it may be hard to understand. The simpler choice is to use a single Transformer - with the correct Voltage - and with a larger VA (watts) rating. If you use a single 16 Volt AC Transformer with a minimum of 30 VA (watts) you 2 Chimes should work fine - Chris
Oh my God. I have been doing Telechron rotors/ clocks for several years. First thing you want to do is to clean around the cup and gear.. it probably is gunked up and you do not want to suck that crap into the rotor.. Toaster oven method is one way of heating, a decent hair dryer for 5 minutes will heat the rotor enough to loosen things up. The rotors when made had Dino oil it which hardens over time and now is probably a blob. Turning a rotor with a pliers is a last resort for a rotor that still will not turn even after heat/ cool cycles. The oil I use is synthetic 0w-20 motor oil. I do about 4 to 5 cycles of heating oiling cooling at 4 drops per cycle. If the rotor does not accept oil at all I try Marvel Mystery Oil. About 25% of my rotors will not suck up oil. After that the saving grace is to drill and get solvent in the rotor. I will not go into that.
Hi W Wagaman: It sounds like you have done lots of rotors - I do clean them off before starting. Since these are used in NuTone Door Chimes - they are exposed to all sorts of dust, lint and dirt. I like the toaster oven method because I can be working on the Chime Base while the rotor is heating up. I've only had a few that still wouldn't turn after heating them 3-4 times and adding oil. I haven't drilled any to add a solvent - how do you close up the hole? Do you worry about getting the shaving inside the case? I guess some grease on the drill bit will catch the shavings - Chris
I have a NuTone Model LC38 8-Note Short Tub Bar-Chime that is not rotating through the total 4 or 8 notes when the door bell is depressed. I cleaned the board and contacts with rubbing alcohol pads and eraser, and also heated the synchronous motor to 140 degrees for 20 minutes followed by WD40 shots which allowed the gears to move freely. For some reason, the motor will not rotate through the 4 or 8 contacts? If the door bell is pressed, one chime will strike. If I hold the door bell button on for the duration of the cycle, all chimes will strike at the expected speed, but only if door bell button is held on. Why does the motor fail to complete the chime cycle with a momentary depression of the doorbell? Stumped.
Hi S.E. Ray: Has this NuTone Chime always been in this house, or are you installing it in place of a standard 2-Note (ding-dong) door bell? If it's always been in the house, there is probably a problem with the "start - stop" switch (which is the springy metal tab under the motor) - Watch this Video to learn more: th-cam.com/video/LqeyzBV-f0E/w-d-xo.html If this Chime is replacing an original 2-Note doorbell - You most likely have it wired incorrectly - Watch this Video to learn how to wire a 4-Wire Chime: th-cam.com/video/TjKUx18TEvc/w-d-xo.html Finally, WD40 is not the correct product to add to the Gear Drive - a light-weight oil should be the only type used Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thanks Chris! My bad on the oil, I see you used 3-in-1 oil after another review of the clock repair video. Never-the-less, the motor did spin freely before my four meager injections, so it should be good. The three arm contact spinner under the synchronous motor is making complete contact on the board, something I checked carefully before reassembly. I did in fact attempt to replace a 2-note Nutone with a 8/4-note LC38 Nutone. I do have a wire connecting the Transformer, the Front and Back posts. Included is a bundle of four white wires tied together with an electrical wire cap. After watching the video, my takeaway is I need to add a lead from that bundled wire cap and attach the other end to the "Com" post which currently has no wires connected. To this point, I lacked the continuous power for the motor to run a full cycle. Sound about right?
@@SERay-xh5wu Yes - You're on the right track with the lack of constant power. Often it's easier to disconnect all of the wiring - identify which pairs come from the Transformer and Pushbuttons - then rewire the Chime as I show in the Video - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 I could use a tone generator and trace each lead, but the white wire bundle is the only possible variable remaining. I did add a lead from the white wire bundle to "COM" connection today and the door bell does cycle the full 8 notes. Only remaining challenge, the door bell requires two subsequent presses to get the motor in motion. If you press the doorbell once, nothing. Press it again within a second, then the motor spins. There seems to be a gap where the contact armature is connecting with the board. However, the board was in great condition with minor wear grooves. Possibly one of the three arms, where the two contacts touch the board, one might be slightly sprung not allowing full contact to pass from end of cycle to new cycle? Although I am not sure how that could have transpired with an unopened unit? I have spent roughly eight hours on this vintage doorbell, so it is all a bit frustrating to get so close, but still not be right.
@@SERay-xh5wu It is on course difficult to comment on mechanical issues for something I haven't seen I person - I have seen the contact on the ends of the armature get bent during cleaning, however this is not that common. How long are your button presses? A quick stab at the button will not be long enough to make the motor rotate enough - a deliberate press of 1 to 1-1/2 seconds (that natural way a visitor would press it) is required. - Chris
Thanks for the video! Got my Japanese Coramatic flip clock to run again, just using a hairdryer. The motor inside is a 3.6 rpm Toshiba. Squirted some trumpet valve oil around the gear, hopefully some will penetrate the movement inside and free it up some. Question- is your toaster oven set to 140° Fahrenheit or Celcius? I assume Fahrenheit as 140°C would really bake it!!
Hi Edward: I really don't deal with clocks other than NuTone Clocks - I would suggest that you look at your clock and find the Telechron Motor number - then search for someone who has complete motors or parts for sale - Chris
The arms of my clock hang down at 6. Looks like the arms got bent and rubbed on one another till they broke. Is there a way to replace just the clock? even if it is a battery operated one or another 12V I could make fit. Thanks
Hi Clayton: You should carefully remove the hands (unscrew the knurled nut that hold then on) and see if they just slipped forward. The hours and minute hand have a rectangular cutout in the center part of the hands, that fits over the drive hub. The seconds hand is just a press fit. You may be able to find replacement hands from a clock parts supplier. - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thank you for your reply and for all your valuable advice in your videos! So there is no harm by turning the hands backwards? (I just got my hands on an L-60 Sunburst model, soon will find out if it works. I saw you mention it in one of your videos - any video on the L-60 coming in the future?)
I wouldn't put WD-40 on the clock gears. WD-40 stands for: Water Displacement 40th recipe (attempt or something like that). It seems to be a good lube at first, but turns to a water displacement seal (lacquer like) and really gums moving parts in the long run.
excuse my name but im repairing an old 1955 hotpoint electric stove and it uses this type of motor, would you know any places i can replace it at. its model number is M-3082 and its type is H10. 110-120 volt and 3.6 rpm
thanks. this will help a lot because most of the schematic on the back has been corroded so I can't find a specification of what it is and its a regulator for the "supermatic" burner so ill look around for some new ones
Hi Roger: The oil will not find its way into the Gear Drive by just putting some on oil on the gear. Heating the Gear Drive causes the metal parts to expand - Then while it's cooling, the metal parts begin to contract - creating a slight suction - which will draw the oil into the Gera Drive. This is what I show in this Video - Chris
Hi Animalcorvair: Since Liberty Oil is a completely synthetic, I'm not sure that it will have the same effect on the original grease inside the gear drive. - Chris
Northside Service Company : This may be a dumb question but....I have a Nutone 3 tube doorbell and it has a Timex clock motor but there is no clock. what is the purpose of the clock motor???. Kind regards, Eric Dee.
Hi Mark: Correct - WD40 is the wrong product for cleaning Clock Mechanisms. The gears and other parts in a Clock Mechanism should be carefully disassembled (if possible) brushed to remove dirt build-up then either soaked in a quality clock cleaner. Since I have an ultra-sonic, that's where I clean them - After cleaning - only some light-weight Instrument oil should be used on the "pivot-points" and the ends of the gear shafts - Lubricate should never be put on the teeth of the gears - Chris
Hi AV Cuber: While that's a common opinion - here's a quote directly from the WD40 web site "WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces. For powerful versatility, count on the blue and yellow WD-40® can to help you live life hands on." It is important to remember that when someone is watching an instructional Video - using common techniques and products will allow more people to achieve the goal in the Video - as long as nothing that is shown damages the item - no harm to foul - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 what I'm trying to say is that is a better way to do this, and as a watch maker myself I've seen many clocks and pocketwatches ruined (totally seized up) by WD-40 because it is *not* an lubricant as its primary use
HI AV: I understand - How would you recommend cleaning the clock gears? Please remember the the gear drive assembly cannot be easily removed from the face or taken apart. These often have 40 - 50 years worth of buildup on them - especially since many time they are located in kitchens and they have grease and crud on them - Chris
Thank you so much for this video. I did exactly as you described and got a clock that has not
worked in 15 years to work. Thanks again!!!
Hi splitter Last: Glad the Video helped - Enjoy your clock - Chris
THank you. It is great to see a very professional video and I am going to attempt to repair my coil as you describe.
Hi andrew: Be extra carefull with the 2-wires that are connected to the Motor Coil - Don't pull on them or stress them in anyway, otherwise the paper wraping around the coil will tear and the wires will come loose - Chris
Hi, I want to thank you very much for sharing this video! My boyfriend has had this clock for 10 years and it never worked. I was trying to figure out a way to make it disappear! But thanks to you I fixed it and it’s working great!
Hi Tami: Outstanding - Happy to have been able to help you - Chris
This video and your instruction is amazing. I was planning to send you my clock so you could repair it because I was a little intimidated and didn't want to break anything or mess it up. But following your steps...my clock is now working after being dormant since 2001. Thank you!!
Hi Roxanne: Well Done! - I'm happy to see that you were able to service your clock and have it work again - Chris
Thanks i fixed my revere b 13 rotor it was screetching loudly, and noisey and stopped.. used my Oven for a while used tufoil (tpfe)premixed lube at shaft many times it sucked in..moved gear which was frozen at first. Became easier to move.. Multiple trips to the oven and oil.. now the motor is silent.. It has never been silent for the 5 years i have had it.. THANK YOU....
Hi peter: Sounds like it all worked well for you - I'm glad the Video helped - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 thank you still so quiet i cannot hear motor with my ear on case..
Thank you so much. I have an old Rittenhouse door chime, I'm assuming was installed when the house was built in 1970. The clock hands weren't turing anymore. I considered replacing the motor, but this method worked to loosen up the gear. My clock is keeping time now, and the gear seems to be alot more freed up.
Hi JST: Glad to hear that the Video help with your Rittenhouse Clock - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thanks, I have noticed only one of my end and middle chimes strike anymore (2 of 4). Do you think I'd have any luck giving the chime motor the same treatment and cleaning the contacts on it? Some time when I have time maybe I'll take it down off the wall and try servicing it. -Jared
@@jt9411 If any of the 4-Notes ring, it's not a Motor / Gear Drive issue. It can be dirty / stuck plungers - missing Plunger Tips - Wear and Tear on the Contact Rotor and Circuit Board - All a mix of all of these items - Chris
Thanks for the video! Helped me fix a telechron that was making a lot of noise and not spinning well!
Hi PicturePicture99: There's nothing worse than a grinding Telechron unit - Glad that the Video helped - Chris
Your testing helped me out alot as I also had 10-11 Ohms so I was able to determine that was ok and focus on the motor. I used a hot air gun to gentle heat mine. Even though mine did initially turn, you video helped me see if was far from moving as freely as it should.
Hi Silkworm: I'm glad to hear that the Video helped in getting your NuTone Clock working again - Chris
This is excellent video It helped my wife and I repair beloved 50 year old kitchen clock which had been inoperative for a few years.
+michaelwtownsley : Hi Michael, Very Cool - I'm glad it helped you out.
I have an old GE clock with the same motor, and it doesn't seem to have any continuity between the two legs of the motor windings at all, but it works fine. I had to take it out and heat/lube it because it was making a terrible grinding sound. Hopefully the new clock oil I added will solve the issue. It sounds fine now, but time will tell.
Hi brian: All sounds good - Chris
what an incredible clock.
Excellent video. I have a hob ahead of me with my doorbell/clock that is sometimes noisy.
I will say these clocks are ahead of their time and are incredibly accurate.
Who could not like this video???
Thank you so much for sending me the link to this great video
Thanks - Chris
17:08 Great video! I have purchased similar Nutone doorbell clock from a salvage reseller online. I don't think I'm getting the chimes so I want to know if it can be mounted to or inside the wall and used as just a clock? The house has easy access to wiring. The seller says it was working but really not much information about the box and chimes. The house has an old working 2 chime doorbell so it's not needed as a doorbell. We just really love the clock face. Goes so well in our 1959 house!
Hi colleen: The Clock you purchased will operate on it's own just fine. It will require a 16 Volt AC Transformer rated at 15 Watts (VA). The Clock cover would have attached to the Chime Box that was inset in the wall. You will need to find a way to attach the Cover - Chris
I am looking for a new coil for mine, Any ideas where I may be able to purchase one. Great video, it helped me so much. Now just hoping to secure a coil.
Hi pat: Finding coils is beyond difficult, there are no sources that I'm aware of. You have to be carefull when choosing a coil - they were made in many different Voltages. It is not common for the coils to fail, I have only had to replace maybe 2 or 3 in the past 10 years - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567Thank you for your quick response.
Great video. It fixed my clock.
Hi William: Good to know the Video helped - Chris
Thanks I used your video and got a Rittenhouse clock / door chime to function again. It’s real load though not sure why. It’s keeping time correctly.
Hi lorduvane: Did you add oil to the Telechron Gear Drive as I show in the Video? - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 yes, I ordered a new nos rotor off eBay I’m going to try that. I might not gotten enough oil inside it.
Wonderful tutorial! Thank You.
Hi Bill: Thanks - Chris
What gauge are connecting wires
Hi danielpena: 22 gauge stranded wire is best - it's more flexible than solid wire - Here's a link to our Video that show how to twist the wires together (looks fancy) - th-cam.com/video/uwO8_LdCfas/w-d-xo.html
Chris
...
I picked up a Telechron recently, it worked for a few seconds then stopped. It's an H3 motor. I tested the coil and sure enough it is now open. I've decided to go with the rewind option for use with low voltage. I'lll feed it with 16V AC from a Dell monitor power supply, puts out 4.5A . I think the new coil will be around 850-1000 turns. There is some information online about the conversion/repair. Hopefully it goes well, the clock looks really nice and I'd like to get it going again. Great video by the way. Oh and for oil I've used it all 3-in-1, Liberty, and Mobil 1 0-30W it's all good. :)
Hi jordanch68: Rewinding the coil seems like quite a project, I hope it works out. What gauge of wire do you plan to use for the coli winding's? - Chris
Hello! I'll be following the guide detailed here: sound.whsites.net/clocks/ocm(dot)html They describe using 0.315mm wire (or 30 SWG, or about 28 AWG). I picked up the 16VAC power supply for about $7-8, I have to check for a source for the wire (probably Mouser or Allied, or online). Coil winders are fairly cheap online (around $30-$40) I may go that route rather than wind it by hand just for speed, efficiency, and accuracy sake. The number of windings seems to be fairly forgiving, I may put a couple different windings and compare them.
Before I plugged in the clock the first time I took it apart to check everything, the coil was in bad shape to being with. Someone else had already tried to repair it, it looked like an old repair. Evidence of overheating and charring. But the main thing was the physical damage. The power cord is soldered directly to tabs connected to the windings, if someone ever kicks the cord or it gets snatched by the cord....bad news. I think what happened in this case was that both tabs were snatched free from the coil (they were only hanging on by the windings) and since those metal solder tabs hook half around the coil the back of those solder tabs dug into the back of the coil when they ripped off. I'm surprised it worked after I secured everything even briefly.
Hi Jordanch68: Thanks for the follow up - that's a really good web site with lots of good detailed information. Be sure to let us know which coil winder you decide to go with - it may be something I invest in - Chris
Hello, it will likely be this one: www.ebay(DOT)com/itm/U-S-Solid-Dual-Purpose-Electric-Manual-Hand-Coil-Winder-Winding-Machine-/121356004202?hash=item1c4161ab6a:g:83IAAOSwgY9Xfa5d
Or this: www.ebay(DOT)com/itm/Manual-Coil-Winder-Power-Transformer-Winding-Machine-Analog-Counter-/361894082329?hash=item5442917719:g:tTwAAOSwjDZYkCNG
I think either would be fine, I think I prefer the counter on the first one though.
They seem to sell a lot of them so maybe that's a good sign? :)
Hi Jordanch68: Ah, that's what I thought you might me looking at. It seems like a good price. Fro myself, I would want one with a holder for the wire spool and a tension mechanism for the winding. - Chris
I have had good luck heating the motor with a hair dryer while putting a mixture of WD and 3in1 oil on the stem. Soon you see it bubbling from the expanding air inside coming out. keep the stem under fluid and it will suck in the oil. Do it a couple of times and let it run. Works great. No drilling and getting any metal flakes in the movement.
Hi Jay: Sounds like a good method - I'm not a fan of drilling the case to add oil, that's to risky in my opinion.- Chris
hi what will you charge to rejuvenate my telethon clock motor ? it says telethon electric clock cat. no. 6 115 volts cycles 60 watts 32
Hi Dave: You'll need to contact me directly about your Telechron Clock Motor - Chris nscompany@msn.com
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Hi I sent an email , please let me know . Thank you
Hi Chris. Will the L-36 Elite chord tone chime be activated by an Ext Front wire from an L-70 or L-39 4/8 note, 3 bar chime? I understand both chimes need their own transformers. Do you simply run one wire from “Ext front” of the L-70 or L-39 to the “front” terminal of the L-36 or is there another wire that needs to be run? I tried it because I want to connect an L-36 in a bedroom/den as an ext to the main foyer L-70 electronic chime, but it would not trigger the L-36 chime during a bench test. Both chimes had their own separate transformers with common and trans wires properly attached to both chimes.
Thanks
Hi Anthony: Like they say - A picture is worth 1000 words. I posted an image on the wiring diagram that show how to connect your 8-Note Chime to you 2-Note Chime. Here's a link: th-cam.com/channels/cMN_sDzaDThDYRBb2Qcahw.htmlcommunity?disable_polymer=1
Chris
Northside Service Company Thank You, Chris. Do you know what “two transformers connected in phase” means?
@@anthonygentilella683 Explaining how to connect 2 Transformers in Phase is difficult and it may be hard to understand. The simpler choice is to use a single Transformer - with the correct Voltage - and with a larger VA (watts) rating. If you use a single 16 Volt AC Transformer with a minimum of 30 VA (watts) you 2 Chimes should work fine - Chris
Northside Service Company Thanks very much!
Oh my God.
I have been doing Telechron rotors/ clocks for several years. First thing you want to do is to clean around the cup and gear.. it probably is gunked up and you do not want to suck that crap into the rotor.. Toaster oven method is one way of heating, a decent hair dryer for 5 minutes will heat the rotor enough to loosen things up. The rotors when made had Dino oil it which hardens over time and now is probably a blob. Turning a rotor with a pliers is a last resort for a rotor that still will not turn even after heat/ cool cycles. The oil I use is synthetic 0w-20 motor oil. I do about 4 to 5 cycles of heating oiling cooling at 4 drops per cycle. If the rotor does not accept oil at all I try Marvel Mystery Oil. About 25% of my rotors will not suck up oil. After that the saving grace is to drill and get solvent in the rotor. I will not go into that.
Hi W Wagaman: It sounds like you have done lots of rotors - I do clean them off before starting. Since these are used in NuTone Door Chimes - they are exposed to all sorts of dust, lint and dirt. I like the toaster oven method because I can be working on the Chime Base while the rotor is heating up. I've only had a few that still wouldn't turn after heating them 3-4 times and adding oil. I haven't drilled any to add a solvent - how do you close up the hole? Do you worry about getting the shaving inside the case? I guess some grease on the drill bit will catch the shavings - Chris
I have a NuTone Model LC38 8-Note Short Tub Bar-Chime that is not rotating through the total 4 or 8 notes when the door bell is depressed. I cleaned the board and contacts with rubbing alcohol pads and eraser, and also heated the synchronous motor to 140 degrees for 20 minutes followed by WD40 shots which allowed the gears to move freely. For some reason, the motor will not rotate through the 4 or 8 contacts? If the door bell is pressed, one chime will strike. If I hold the door bell button on for the duration of the cycle, all chimes will strike at the expected speed, but only if door bell button is held on. Why does the motor fail to complete the chime cycle with a momentary depression of the doorbell? Stumped.
Hi S.E. Ray: Has this NuTone Chime always been in this house, or are you installing it in place of a standard 2-Note (ding-dong) door bell? If it's always been in the house, there is probably a problem with the "start - stop" switch (which is the springy metal tab under the motor) - Watch this Video to learn more: th-cam.com/video/LqeyzBV-f0E/w-d-xo.html
If this Chime is replacing an original 2-Note doorbell - You most likely have it wired incorrectly - Watch this Video to learn how to wire a 4-Wire Chime: th-cam.com/video/TjKUx18TEvc/w-d-xo.html
Finally, WD40 is not the correct product to add to the Gear Drive - a light-weight oil should be the only type used
Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thanks Chris! My bad on the oil, I see you used 3-in-1 oil after another review of the clock repair video. Never-the-less, the motor did spin freely before my four meager injections, so it should be good. The three arm contact spinner under the synchronous motor is making complete contact on the board, something I checked carefully before reassembly.
I did in fact attempt to replace a 2-note Nutone with a 8/4-note LC38 Nutone. I do have a wire connecting the Transformer, the Front and Back posts. Included is a bundle of four white wires tied together with an electrical wire cap. After watching the video, my takeaway is I need to add a lead from that bundled wire cap and attach the other end to the "Com" post which currently has no wires connected. To this point, I lacked the continuous power for the motor to run a full cycle. Sound about right?
@@SERay-xh5wu Yes - You're on the right track with the lack of constant power. Often it's easier to disconnect all of the wiring - identify which pairs come from the Transformer and Pushbuttons - then rewire the Chime as I show in the Video - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 I could use a tone generator and trace each lead, but the white wire bundle is the only possible variable remaining. I did add a lead from the white wire bundle to "COM" connection today and the door bell does cycle the full 8 notes. Only remaining challenge, the door bell requires two subsequent presses to get the motor in motion. If you press the doorbell once, nothing. Press it again within a second, then the motor spins. There seems to be a gap where the contact armature is connecting with the board. However, the board was in great condition with minor wear grooves. Possibly one of the three arms, where the two contacts touch the board, one might be slightly sprung not allowing full contact to pass from end of cycle to new cycle? Although I am not sure how that could have transpired with an unopened unit? I have spent roughly eight hours on this vintage doorbell, so it is all a bit frustrating to get so close, but still not be right.
@@SERay-xh5wu It is on course difficult to comment on mechanical issues for something I haven't seen I person - I have seen the contact on the ends of the armature get bent during cleaning, however this is not that common. How long are your button presses? A quick stab at the button will not be long enough to make the motor rotate enough - a deliberate press of 1 to 1-1/2 seconds (that natural way a visitor would press it) is required. - Chris
SO helpful!
Hi Abbie: Thanks - Chris
Thanks for the video! Got my Japanese Coramatic flip clock to run again, just using a hairdryer. The motor inside is a 3.6 rpm Toshiba. Squirted some trumpet valve oil around the gear, hopefully some will penetrate the movement inside and free it up some. Question- is your toaster oven set to 140° Fahrenheit or Celcius? I assume Fahrenheit as 140°C would really bake it!!
Hi Nismology5: The toaster oven was set at 140°F - Chirs
Where can I get a replacement coil for a Telechrone Clock model 5B07
Hi Edward: I really don't deal with clocks other than NuTone Clocks - I would suggest that you look at your clock and find the Telechron Motor number - then search for someone who has complete motors or parts for sale - Chris
The arms of my clock hang down at 6. Looks like the arms got bent and rubbed on one another till they broke. Is there a way to replace just the clock? even if it is a battery operated one or another 12V I could make fit. Thanks
Hi Clayton: You should carefully remove the hands (unscrew the knurled nut that hold then on) and see if they just slipped forward. The hours and minute hand have a rectangular cutout in the center part of the hands, that fits over the drive hub. The seconds hand is just a press fit. You may be able to find replacement hands from a clock parts supplier. - Chris
Dumb question, but I can't find any instructions on Google.... what is the "correct" way to set the time on these movements?
Hi Jamie: Some NuTone Clocks have stems that set the time - on models without stems, you just carefully rotate the minute to set the time - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thank you for your reply and for all your valuable advice in your videos! So there is no harm by turning the hands backwards? (I just got my hands on an L-60 Sunburst model, soon will find out if it works. I saw you mention it in one of your videos - any video on the L-60 coming in the future?)
Hi Jamie: I usually turn the hands in the correct direction - I actually have recently acquired a NuTone L60 and there will be a Video soon - Chris
I wouldn't put WD-40 on the clock gears. WD-40 stands for: Water Displacement 40th recipe (attempt or something like that).
It seems to be a good lube at first, but turns to a water displacement seal (lacquer like) and really gums moving parts in the long run.
Agree. I think silicone would be better. I think I'd flush it with a solvent, first, to remove the old lubricant.
excuse my name but im repairing an old 1955 hotpoint electric stove and it uses this type of motor, would you know any places i can replace it at. its model number is M-3082 and its type is H10. 110-120 volt and 3.6 rpm
Hi Shrek: There are several Telechron motor are parts sellers on line - you should contact them about the parts you need. - Chris
thanks. this will help a lot because most of the schematic on the back has been corroded so I can't find a specification of what it is and its a regulator for the "supermatic" burner so ill look around for some new ones
I'd like to use it with a 5V power supply, how can I do that?
Hi Armando, You can't. The Telechron Motor was designed to operate on 16 volts AC - Chris
Thank you very much Chris
You're welcome - Chris
I use a heat gun and WD40 The WD has a bunch of solvents in it and it thins the old grease.
Hi Jay: That's an interesting approach - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 I have done several of these and they all still work after several years
Why not power it up and run it while putting oil in the motor
Hi Roger: The oil will not find its way into the Gear Drive by just putting some on oil on the gear. Heating the Gear Drive causes the metal parts to expand - Then while it's cooling, the metal parts begin to contract - creating a slight suction - which will draw the oil into the Gera Drive. This is what I show in this Video - Chris
i use liberty oil better than 3-1
Hi Animalcorvair: Since Liberty Oil is a completely synthetic, I'm not sure that it will have the same effect on the original grease inside the gear drive. - Chris
works great // will out last 3-1 just fixed a clock out of a zenith radio try it all i use on my clocks
Northside Service Company : This may be a dumb question but....I have a Nutone 3 tube doorbell and it has a Timex clock motor but there is no clock. what is the purpose of the clock motor???.
Kind regards, Eric Dee.
Hi Eric, What is the Model Number of your Chime? - Chris
Don't use WD-40 on any clock.
Hi Mark: Correct - WD40 is the wrong product for cleaning Clock Mechanisms. The gears and other parts in a Clock Mechanism should be carefully disassembled (if possible) brushed to remove dirt build-up then either soaked in a quality clock cleaner. Since I have an ultra-sonic, that's where I clean them - After cleaning - only some light-weight Instrument oil should be used on the "pivot-points" and the ends of the gear shafts - Lubricate should never be put on the teeth of the gears - Chris
Throw out the 3-in-1.
Hi Zigfeld: Why's that? - Chris
WD-40 is not an oil nor a lubricant
Hi AV Cuber: While that's a common opinion - here's a quote directly from the WD40 web site
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces. For powerful versatility, count on the blue and yellow WD-40® can to help you live life hands on."
It is important to remember that when someone is watching an instructional Video - using common techniques and products will allow more people to achieve the goal in the Video - as long as nothing that is shown damages the item - no harm to foul - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 what I'm trying to say is that is a better way to do this, and as a watch maker myself I've seen many clocks and pocketwatches ruined (totally seized up) by WD-40 because it is *not* an lubricant as its primary use
HI AV: I understand - How would you recommend cleaning the clock gears?
Please remember the the gear drive assembly cannot be easily removed from the face or taken apart. These often have 40 - 50 years worth of buildup on them - especially since many time they are located in kitchens and they have grease and crud on them - Chris