I found working on a 70 year old NuTone Chime Base to be a very rewarding project. While I have worked on many early and mid 1950's K Model Chime base, i believe that this was the earliest K Model Base I have seen. Since parts for these bases are very scarce and difficult to find, I've started a project with a spring manufacturer that has been in business for over 100 years to see it I can have the original style springs re-manufactured. There are so many of these early, high quality NuTone Chimes that are in need of service, that I think the effort to have the original parts duplicated is worth the effort. - Chris
Harvey, I just bought a K-44 Majestic w/Jefferson Clock, 1947 Chime from an Estate Sale in Connecticut, and I am thrilled about your videos. Will be contacting you in the morning to have you send the grommets and brass washers to refurbish my set. Thank you so much for your detailed tutorials, they are not boring at all,they are perfect!
Great thorough video! Your videos are probably the most thorough of all TH-cam videos that I have watched.....and I've watched a lot of technical/ repair videos for all sorts of items! Keep it up! Thank you! I made a donation to support your work. Everyone should as well to keep your videos going. A world of knowledge right here folks, keep it going!
This video is amazing - my brother and I recently refurbished a NuTone Majestic K-46 in his house with its help - so thank you so much! The K-46 is very similar to the K-44 except with a clock face instead of a light. The unit was nonfunctional originally but we got it working! However, the motor torque is very low and as a result it's somewhat unreliable. Sometimes there isn't quite enough torque to start the motor spinning when the doorbell button is pressed and you end up not getting any chimes. I have an idea to reversibly replace the motor + distribution wheel with solid state relays to fire the chime solenoids. However, my brother lives quite a ways away and isn't electrically-minded, and I didn't think of the idea until I was back home, so I'm missing some info. Specifically, I need the resistance of the solenoids so that I can properly size the SSRs. It's a long shot, but does anyone have one of these doorbells or a similar model that could measure the resistance for me? I would make the design of my solution available afterwards so others could use this to fix units that have missing/non-operational distribution wheels and/or motors!
I would recommend that your try servicing the Telechron Gear Drive as I show in this Video - th-cam.com/video/v92TV3Qp30E/w-d-xo.html Also - You need to make sure that you have the correct Transformer to power the Chime and Clock - th-cam.com/video/Rhw4aWlONY0/w-d-xo.html Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Well crap, the 20V input voltage for the motor was not something I knew and we installed a new 24V/50VA doorbell transformer. I'll have to tell him to disconnect things so the motor isn't damaged over time! Thanks for the save! I think that means that the torque issue is probably not power related though. We will definitely try your suggested Telechron maintenance first. I think I'm just champing at the bit because the idea of designing the circuit/PCB sounded like fun for this hobbyist 😀. Thanks so much for your help!
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Your suggested transformer video actually answered my original question too - the solenoids draw approximately 400mA when active.
Oh man, this video is just what I needed. I have one of these in my house that was built in 1921, not sure of the age of the chime though. I finally have the transformer and button hooked up, but I'm sure I'm going to have to remove the rotor and perform your heat it up and feed it oil fix. Thanks for posting this!
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Turns out the one I have is the same model with white plastic and brass cover you did the video on where the fellow sent it to you when they replaced the chime. I'm going to be very slow and careful. I think more than anything it's likely the rotor from motor that is frozen but I haven't had time to remove it yet to test. Tremendous information you have up on your feeds. Thanks again.
@@keithgillum3414 : Suggest that you power the Motor Directly from the Transformer to see if it turns - I'm not saying that it won't benefit from being serviced, but I've only seen 1 frozen Telechron Motor in the past 10 years - Chris
Chris, Thanks for the thoroughness of this video. It is still helping folks like me 6 years later.... 😃 The telechron motor servicing video on your channel is also very helpful -- as many of these motors are stiff or non-functional due to their aged grease drying out and stiffening up. For those looking for that, here's a link to it, indexed to start at the actual repair after you have removed it from the Nutone clock it came on: th-cam.com/video/yK4XUGujZrM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=T10-ncICDrzrd_kV&t=193 This helped me in my quest to resurrect a 1947 dated K44 chime base. Also thanks for the grommets that I bought from you. Philip from Oregon
Good video and explanation. I was asked to repair a similar doorbell, but it doesn't have a motor installed. There are many wires coming out of the wall for each chime (solenoid). Could it be possible the timing motor is somewhere else in the house? Thanks.
Hi Sky173: There were other brands of Chimes that had remotely mounted control units - which were then wired to the solenoids where the tubes hang. NuTone never made any chime like this - I have seen a GE Chime from the 1930's that was made that way - Chris
I have just successfully rewired my K44 based on your video. just a question. My light bulb is burned out. do you have any sources you could share for replacements
Hi FR-jc9gz: You have to make an assumption that when someone put the newer style plungers into the K44 it did work when they were done - Of course, making assumptions can be dangerous. . . - Since the Plunger tips are somewhat shorter on your newer style plungers than on the original plungers - the length of the springs may come into play - The original K44 Springs are almost twice as long as the springs that were used with the newer plungers - Longer Springs mean they have a thicker compressed measurement - Trying it out will be the only way to tell how well it works - Chris
I enjoyed your video. I have one of these and I need a transformer for it. Can you recommend one or give me the spec for one. I'm assuming the output is AC. Thanks
Hi Kirk, Your K Model NuTone Chime is designed to operate on a 20 Volt AC Transformer @ 20-30 Watts 20 Volt transformers are not commonly made anymore in a electrical junction mounting form. It might be tempting to use a 16 volt or 24 volt transformer, but this would be a mistake, since these are either 20% lower or 20% higher the the correct transformer. 20% lower can cause the chime motor to run slow and stall and 20% higher puts the motor coil at risk, which can burn it out. I can build a replacement transformer appliance with the correct 20 Volts @ 30 Watts - Chris
I have a Majestic K44. I am told it is from 1948, same age as the house it came from. My question is what light bulb should I use? I have tried several bulbs and they burn out quickly.
I have the same one inherited from my grandparents and got it working a few years back th-cam.com/video/CbF1BP4rRXo/w-d-xo.html, BUT my grandfather or father cut the wires to the clock. With both gone I don't know why or where they connect to the board....any thoughts???
Hi TheAggieBQ: The power for the Clock comes from the "Trans" and "Com" connections on the Chime. Depending on the age of the Chime - the Terminal Strip could also be labeled as the "B' and "R" connections - Chris
I found working on a 70 year old NuTone Chime Base to be a very rewarding project. While I have worked on many early and mid 1950's K Model Chime base, i believe that this was the earliest K Model Base I have seen. Since parts for these bases are very scarce and difficult to find, I've started a project with a spring manufacturer that has been in business for over 100 years to see it I can have the original style springs re-manufactured.
There are so many of these early, high quality NuTone Chimes that are in need of service, that I think the effort to have the original parts duplicated is worth the effort. - Chris
Harvey, I just bought a K-44 Majestic w/Jefferson Clock, 1947 Chime from an Estate Sale in Connecticut, and I am thrilled about your videos. Will be contacting you in the morning to have you send the grommets and brass washers to refurbish my set. Thank you so much for your detailed tutorials, they are not boring at all,they are perfect!
Hi Edwin: Parts are on their way to you - Chris
Great thorough video! Your videos are probably the most thorough of all TH-cam videos that I have watched.....and I've watched a lot of technical/ repair videos for all sorts of items! Keep it up! Thank you! I made a donation to support your work. Everyone should as well to keep your videos going. A world of knowledge right here folks, keep it going!
Hi Robert: Thanks for the kind words and support - Chris
This video is amazing - my brother and I recently refurbished a NuTone Majestic K-46 in his house with its help - so thank you so much! The K-46 is very similar to the K-44 except with a clock face instead of a light. The unit was nonfunctional originally but we got it working! However, the motor torque is very low and as a result it's somewhat unreliable. Sometimes there isn't quite enough torque to start the motor spinning when the doorbell button is pressed and you end up not getting any chimes.
I have an idea to reversibly replace the motor + distribution wheel with solid state relays to fire the chime solenoids. However, my brother lives quite a ways away and isn't electrically-minded, and I didn't think of the idea until I was back home, so I'm missing some info. Specifically, I need the resistance of the solenoids so that I can properly size the SSRs. It's a long shot, but does anyone have one of these doorbells or a similar model that could measure the resistance for me? I would make the design of my solution available afterwards so others could use this to fix units that have missing/non-operational distribution wheels and/or motors!
I would recommend that your try servicing the Telechron Gear Drive as I show in this Video - th-cam.com/video/v92TV3Qp30E/w-d-xo.html
Also - You need to make sure that you have the correct Transformer to power the Chime and Clock - th-cam.com/video/Rhw4aWlONY0/w-d-xo.html
Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Well crap, the 20V input voltage for the motor was not something I knew and we installed a new 24V/50VA doorbell transformer. I'll have to tell him to disconnect things so the motor isn't damaged over time! Thanks for the save!
I think that means that the torque issue is probably not power related though. We will definitely try your suggested Telechron maintenance first. I think I'm just champing at the bit because the idea of designing the circuit/PCB sounded like fun for this hobbyist 😀.
Thanks so much for your help!
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Your suggested transformer video actually answered my original question too - the solenoids draw approximately 400mA when active.
Oh man, this video is just what I needed. I have one of these in my house that was built in 1921, not sure of the age of the chime though. I finally have the transformer and button hooked up, but I'm sure I'm going to have to remove the rotor and perform your heat it up and feed it oil fix. Thanks for posting this!
Hi Keith: Perform the servicing slowly and carefully - Don't loose any Parts! - Keep them safe - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Turns out the one I have is the same model with white plastic and brass cover you did the video on where the fellow sent it to you when they replaced the chime. I'm going to be very slow and careful. I think more than anything it's likely the rotor from motor that is frozen but I haven't had time to remove it yet to test. Tremendous information you have up on your feeds. Thanks again.
@@keithgillum3414 : Suggest that you power the Motor Directly from the Transformer to see if it turns - I'm not saying that it won't benefit from being serviced, but I've only seen 1 frozen Telechron Motor in the past 10 years - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thanks for that advice, I will give that a shot first.
Another repair project "excellently" done.
Hi Anthony, Thanks - Chris
Great job with explanations and techniques.
Chris,
Thanks for the thoroughness of this video. It is still helping folks like me 6 years later.... 😃
The telechron motor servicing video on your channel is also very helpful -- as many of these motors are stiff or non-functional due to their aged grease drying out and stiffening up. For those looking for that, here's a link to it, indexed to start at the actual repair after you have removed it from the Nutone clock it came on:
th-cam.com/video/yK4XUGujZrM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=T10-ncICDrzrd_kV&t=193
This helped me in my quest to resurrect a 1947 dated K44 chime base. Also thanks for the grommets that I bought from you.
Philip from Oregon
Hi phillip: Thanks for the comment - I'm glad the Video helped you - Chris
Good video and explanation. I was asked to repair a similar doorbell, but it doesn't have a motor installed. There are many wires coming out of the wall for each chime (solenoid). Could it be possible the timing motor is somewhere else in the house? Thanks.
Hi Sky173: There were other brands of Chimes that had remotely mounted control units - which were then wired to the solenoids where the tubes hang. NuTone never made any chime like this - I have seen a GE Chime from the 1930's that was made that way - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 Thank you so much for the help. I'll check it out.
I have just successfully rewired my K44 based on your video. just a question. My light bulb is burned out. do you have any sources you could share for replacements
Hi Mike: I have bulbs in stock for the "K" Model Chimes and I'll post the Lamp Number for you - Chris
Hmm.. My K-44 has three plungers that are using the newer type (with the plastic tips) would these work fine for the K-44?
Hi FR-jc9gz: You have to make an assumption that when someone put the newer style plungers into the K44 it did work when they were done - Of course, making assumptions can be dangerous. . . - Since the Plunger tips are somewhat shorter on your newer style plungers than on the original plungers - the length of the springs may come into play - The original K44 Springs are almost twice as long as the springs that were used with the newer plungers - Longer Springs mean they have a thicker compressed measurement - Trying it out will be the only way to tell how well it works - Chris
I would like to see you make some tubes from aluminum shower rods [Lowes/HD] to see how it sounds ???
Hi Ekim: This doesn't sound like a good use of my time - I wouldn't expect it to sound musical in any way - Chris
I enjoyed your video. I have one of these and I need a transformer for it. Can you recommend one or give me the spec for one. I'm assuming the output is AC.
Thanks
Hi Kirk, Your K Model NuTone Chime is designed to operate on a 20 Volt AC Transformer @ 20-30 Watts
20 Volt transformers are not commonly made anymore in a electrical junction mounting form.
It might be tempting to use a 16 volt or 24 volt transformer, but this would be a mistake, since these are either 20% lower or 20% higher the the correct transformer. 20% lower can cause the chime motor to run slow and stall and 20% higher puts the motor coil at risk, which can burn it out.
I can build a replacement transformer appliance with the correct 20 Volts @ 30 Watts - Chris
Hi Chris,
I see that a Lionel train transformer is rated at 19 volts @60 watts. Would that work? How much would you charge for you appliance? Kirk
I have a Majestic K44. I am told it is from 1948, same age as the house it came from. My question is what light bulb should I use? I have tried several bulbs and they burn out quickly.
Hi Warren: If you are powering your K44 with the correct 20 Volt Transformer - You should use a Miniature Lamp #1873 - Chris
I have the same one inherited from my grandparents and got it working a few years back th-cam.com/video/CbF1BP4rRXo/w-d-xo.html, BUT my grandfather or father cut the wires to the clock. With both gone I don't know why or where they connect to the board....any thoughts???
Hi TheAggieBQ: The power for the Clock comes from the "Trans" and "Com" connections on the Chime. Depending on the age of the Chime - the Terminal Strip could also be labeled as the "B' and "R" connections - Chris