Great video. Looks like the previous owner didn't change the oil too often. You will need to do several internal engine washes to get it into a decent shape. To avoid stress on the lower control arm bushing, you should give the final torque with the weight of the car. Cheers
Thanks, The prevoius owner did remove the thermostat,so the engine was not warm,so a lot of deposits ,from running rich caused that. For sure oil changes have a role,but i think it was not the main problem. Yes for the control arms,i should have. The outer case is made of plastic,i think it will slide in its bore with a bit of chance lol
The Endura E sounds a bit quieter now that you've done the valve clearances, and cleaned up the rocker assembly. It looked like a neglected engine with all that gunk until you got it out too. It's quite interesting to see the valves and rockers going up and down. I'm guessing that makes an OHV sound like a sewing machine or even worse sounding like a vibrating toolbox..
@@michaelovitch Could be worse could be a Simca engine. Judging by all of that gunk it's not had regular oil changes and may need an engine flush. It may sound much quieter when the rockers and valves have been lubricated with fresh oil for a bit.
Beau travail, une belle remise en forme sur cette mecanique simple et fiable. Pas facile la prise d'air meme avec le savon, mais bon peu de debit d'air a cette endroit, la durite va vers un deshuileur n'est ce pas ? Vous avez du courage pour la culasse, surement le resultat de vidanges negligées dans son passé, en esperant que la rampe de culbuteurs ne soit pas usée par defaut de lubrification ! Vous devriez vous offrir un petit bac a ultrasons, c'etait l'occasion rêvée pour vos culbuteurs :) Pas de thermostat sous le boitier a la fin ? Trop facile ;)
Merci, la durite retourne à l'admission,il y a généralement, un circuit qui part du couvre culasse,ou du bloc,avec deux durites : Une part vers l'admission,avant les papillon,une après. ça permet d'aspirer la vapeur sous dépression au ralenti ou par l'admission ,papillon ouvert. Un bac à ultrason est pas cadeau...un truc abordable est tout petit.
Quel tubo li è solo originale e non lo trovi diversamente. Io possiedo la stessa vettura anno ‘99 è una vettura favolosa, praticamente indistruttibile. Ha fatto 263.000 km ed è ancora integra.
Hmm no thermostat, no wonder it was taking an ice age to warm up lol. The previous owner really kicked the sh1t out of that little car, i was really shocked by the lack of oil to the rockers due to no maintainance ever :-(. The sump oil must look horrible, i'm supprised that it runs that well. Now you have restored the oil feed, it has a chance of running a bit better, but the damage is done :-(. i imagine all the rockers and assembly would need replacing to reverse some of the damage, but it's not worth it. The crank case gas recycling was bloody hopeless, it would of failed on that. The constant velocity joint/bearings were fun, take the clip off he he :-D, leg pulling lol. I can see that this car is a right pain for you, but your hard work will pay off :-D. It''s a bloody shame it was treated so bad.:-( It's been loverly weather here lately, i hope you had even better :-D.
She was kicked yeah lol I think the oil pan will see the daylight soon... Somebody tried to put oil in it,they tried to separate with a screw driver the yellow top from the rest of the oil separator /oil plug. They didn't try to just pull the whole stuff up however. It's a pain,but not too much for now. I just hope the lack of thermostat don't hide an other problem,like overheating or something fun like that... It's really warm here also,but since we are obliged to stay inside ,and it will be reconducted for another two weeks i think,it's a waste.
also my milage is too low like i put about 16 liter of fuel and it goes about 100 km in the city , my city is Mountainous area, i changed air filter, engine oil and oil filter. what do you think the problem is , also i cleaned the throttle body and idle valve and my idling when it is warm about 800-900 rpm. thank you
Be sure that your tires are balanced,and there is no mud on the wheels. Be sure that all wheels are not loose. For your mileage,be sure that you don't have the engine light on. Poor mileage generally comes from a sensor wich is not working anymore. Critical sensors for mileage are the oxygen sensor,coolant temperature sensor,and air temperature sensor. You need to have a working thermostat. Check the color on your spark plugs,they should be very dark since you burn too much fuel.
Bonjour j’ai une Ford fiesta de 1997 , j’ai aussi sur bruit style cliquetis au démarrage , sa peut venir de quoi ? Si quelqu’un est un pro des Ford fiesta de l’époque, je suis preneur pour une petite discussion 😉
Peace be upon you, Professor. I have a question on the car. My generation Ck. I have bubbles appearing with it in the radiator. I replaced the cassette 3 times. The machine is clear and smooth. Strong pulling from the cooling off. Returns the text. Normal. Professor The driver did not switch.
Hi, Bubbles in the radiator can be the fact that air is trapped in the ccoling system,because coolant was repalced recently and not purged enough,or the sign of the head gasket or EGR cooler failure if you have one. Does the problem occurs with cold engine or warm engine only ?
Can u tell me ive got ford fiesta 2001 1.3 engine, and it missfires when i give it full throtle. Also missfires up the hill, can u tell me wht can be a problem? When im gentile with thotle it doesnt not missfire. Also i can hear petrol smell from the rear?
@@rimeda1830 Full throttle or up the hill = a lot of fuel in the cylinder. The spark is too weak to ignite all this fuel and dies in it. Check the air filter first to see if the engine can breath. Then check the ignition wires. It's a ignition box,there is no distribution cap. Test the wires : ground to the negative pole on the battery a copper wire or a screw driver. Hold it on the insulated part to not shock you with electricity ,and go very close all along each ignition wire. If a ignition wire is defective,it will leak electricity wich will jump to the ground through th ecopper wire or your screwdriver. The electricity is not dangerous here. It's very high voltage but very weak current so it's not dangerous (don't do it if you have a heart pacemaker) You can spray salty water on the wires too,the spark will leak out from the ingnition wire to the engine or a grounded tool. You can combine both methods.
Salut, 2.8 litres pour cette boite. Il y a souvent deux bouchons sur les boites : celui du bas sert à la vidange,et celui du haut sert au remplissage et fait office de niveau. On remplit généralement jusqu'à ce que l'huile arrive à ras l'orifice du haut.
Por curiosidad 😂 , soy de Argentina , pregunto lo comprás a 200 € y ese mismo vehículo a cuanto lo valuan en su mayor validez. 🤐 Perdon la pregunta ❓ pero si podoer , gracias
It can be sold here for 800 euros easily. I sold it for that. I invested 200 euros for buying the car,75 for inspection,and 150 for paperwork and new parts so it's safe to use,and made no profit.
Salut jme pose des petites questions, comment savez vous que la noix de cardan n'est pas morte ? Quelle graisse avez vous utilisé pour les coulisseaux et dois je graisser le haut du piston ainsi que l'intérieur du cache poussière du piston? Si oui quelle graisse svp? (Réfection étrier super 5)
Pour graisser les coulisseaux, il faut de préférence une graisse qui tienne bien à la température, et qui soit compatible avec les caoutchoucs (soufflet). Il y a une bonne graisse pour ça : la pâte de silicone. Sans hésitation. Pour les pistons, on peut utiliser un peu de liquide de frein je pense, ce n'est pas un endroit censé être graissé de toute façon, ça fonctionne au liquide de frein.
@@rustypanda Comme indiqué,du liquide de frein pour insérer les pistons dans des joints neufs. Non,pas de graisse sur le cache poussière,inutile, c'est fait pour travailler à sec des deux cotés. Pour les coulisseaux,du silicone,comme dit,ou de la graisse résistant à la température. J'utilise de la graisse au bisulfure de molybdène pour "travaux publics" ça colle bien,ne dégouline pas,ça ne s'évapore pas et c'est joli.
Un cardan kaput a du jeu,il fait "clici,clic" principalement quand il subit des angles. là il été encore bien gras,ça limite l'usure,c'était une défaillance récente du soufflet.
@@suevo_ Pas vraiment nécessaire sur la route de campagne. Il faut enlever les vieux plombs par contre,pour éviter de déséquilibrer plus que ça ne serait sans les plombs. Vous pouvez mettre 30 grammes de ça dans le pneu (si il n'est pas taille basse ) : www.google.com/search?q=airsoft+billes&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk01oV6yPfVbB-QCDo8B_IciKMmhECQ:1586519268460&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwik07Pr5N3oAhUJ8BQKHT8RCSYQ_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=1920&bih=983 ça équilibrera la roue dès que vous roulez. Moi je l'ai fait et ça marche bien,j'ai aussi essayé avec du liquide de refroidissement (ça ne gèle pas et ça n'abime pas le pneu )
@@michaelovitch merci une fois de plus. C'est du 155/70 R13, j' irai essayer. th-cam.com/video/CD5NsWFqnnE/w-d-xo.html Il y a aussi le poudre d'équilibrage, mais malheureusement il y a pas beaucoup de information sur le thème...
@@suevo_ Il y a aussi les microbilles de verre qui servent à sabler : c'est pas cher et c'est du verre,donc n'abime rien,et se trouve sous forme de poudre fine. Il y a peu d'information sur le sujet en France,mais aux Etats Unis c'est courant. www.google.com/search?q=tire+balancing+beads&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk03lB9y8uEQ-_CJ2iamvmG40MKyobQ:1586598862194&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiD0NOsjeDoAhVV5eAKHeMSCTsQ_AUoA3oECAwQBQ&biw=1920&bih=983
I'm sorry for you to find that in the engine. No thermostat and old oil is very bad. But it runs quite well, at least for some years will be ok. I wonder why my car hestitates being suddenly accelerated hard from idle? Almost stalls then pick up.
@@mariusfurtuna9422 Ok does it do that when you start it cold the morning,or even warm engine after stopping ,or all the time ? Does it do that when you accelerate moderately also ?
It can be that,or the fact that the engine was running too cold,the thermostat was removed to hide or bypass the head gasket problem. it causes deposits of oil fumes,and poor viscosity,rich combustion,and even more deposits from the blowby,full of unburnt fuel vapors. or both.
@@jonasdenis7474 The wires are 1234 (left to right ) from the lower to the higher when you look at them on the side of the intake plenum. But they need to be plugged correctly on the ignition coil,and their name (1,2,3,4) is on the coil itself to locate them.
@@arschgeige7178 The ISO 2320 norm says it can be re used 15 times without it to loose its required performances. I just learned that to answer to you. I just knew if it can be loosened by hand,it can be used again.
I find these videos extremely relaxing. Thank you.
I'm happy for that,thanks.
Great video. Looks like the previous owner didn't change the oil too often. You will need to do several internal engine washes to get it into a decent shape.
To avoid stress on the lower control arm bushing, you should give the final torque with the weight of the car. Cheers
Thanks,
The prevoius owner did remove the thermostat,so the engine was not warm,so a lot of deposits ,from running rich caused that.
For sure oil changes have a role,but i think it was not the main problem.
Yes for the control arms,i should have.
The outer case is made of plastic,i think it will slide in its bore with a bit of chance lol
When I saw him hitting the driveshafts joint I knew what will happen 😁😁 great video 👍🏽
tu fait du très bon travaille tes comme mois toujours dans le cambouis tes vraiment top!!!😉👍
Merci : )
Tu travailles sur quoi ?
The Endura E sounds a bit quieter now that you've done the valve clearances, and cleaned up the rocker assembly. It looked like a neglected engine with all that gunk until you got it out too. It's quite interesting to see the valves and rockers going up and down. I'm guessing that makes an OHV sound like a sewing machine or even worse sounding like a vibrating toolbox..
Yes,a bit more silent but neglected for sure.
This one is more toolbox kind lol
I think i will improve some stuff on it.
@@michaelovitch Could be worse could be a Simca engine. Judging by all of that gunk it's not had regular oil changes and may need an engine flush. It may sound much quieter when the rockers and valves have been lubricated with fresh oil for a bit.
@@jaggass
No oil change for sure...
I need it to warm up,i never heard it warm, it should make even less noise.
Дуже корисне відео. Дякую 🤝
Thanks : )
Artistic job and relaxing video 👍👏
Thanks : )
Gran video me has despejado muchas dudas. Tengo un ford fiesta 99
Salut super vidéo un gros pouce bleu c'est du bon boulot 👍👍👍👍👍
Merci : )
i like all what about mechanicals things,,, top channel
Cool and educating video. Thanks.
Thanks.
Beau travail, une belle remise en forme sur cette mecanique simple et fiable. Pas facile la prise d'air meme avec le savon, mais bon peu de debit d'air a cette endroit, la durite va vers un deshuileur n'est ce pas ? Vous avez du courage pour la culasse, surement le resultat de vidanges negligées dans son passé, en esperant que la rampe de culbuteurs ne soit pas usée par defaut de lubrification ! Vous devriez vous offrir un petit bac a ultrasons, c'etait l'occasion rêvée pour vos culbuteurs :) Pas de thermostat sous le boitier a la fin ? Trop facile ;)
Merci,
la durite retourne à l'admission,il y a généralement, un circuit qui part du couvre culasse,ou du bloc,avec deux durites :
Une part vers l'admission,avant les papillon,une après.
ça permet d'aspirer la vapeur sous dépression au ralenti ou par l'admission ,papillon ouvert.
Un bac à ultrason est pas cadeau...un truc abordable est tout petit.
Ótimo vídeo , tenho um fiesta igual a esse , vou fazer essas manutenções no meu !
: )
This is the video i've been waiting for.
I think i'm not done with that engine...
i have the same model and same engine but it starts vibrates after 80-85 km/h and it is not the steering, it is like the all car, what about yours ?
Quel tubo li è solo originale e non lo trovi diversamente. Io possiedo la stessa vettura anno ‘99 è una vettura favolosa, praticamente indistruttibile. Ha fatto 263.000 km ed è ancora integra.
263000? Wow my fiesta 1998 automatic has only done less than 42000 😮😮
Muy instructivo el video gracias por compartir!
: )
Bon travail!
Merci : )
Hi, nice video!
Can you tell me how many Newton meters are tightened the bolts at min 32:46?
Hi,
Thanks.
4.3 daN.m for the rocker shaft assembly retaining screws.
@@michaelovitch Thanks!
Hmm no thermostat, no wonder it was taking an ice age to warm up lol.
The previous owner really kicked the sh1t out of that little car, i was really shocked by the lack of oil to the rockers due to no maintainance ever :-(.
The sump oil must look horrible, i'm supprised that it runs that well.
Now you have restored the oil feed, it has a chance of running a bit better, but the damage is done :-(.
i imagine all the rockers and assembly would need replacing to reverse some of the damage, but it's not worth it.
The crank case gas recycling was bloody hopeless, it would of failed on that.
The constant velocity joint/bearings were fun, take the clip off he he :-D, leg pulling lol.
I can see that this car is a right pain for you, but your hard work will pay off :-D.
It''s a bloody shame it was treated so bad.:-(
It's been loverly weather here lately, i hope you had even better :-D.
She was kicked yeah lol
I think the oil pan will see the daylight soon...
Somebody tried to put oil in it,they tried to separate with a screw driver the yellow top from the rest of the oil separator /oil plug.
They didn't try to just pull the whole stuff up however.
It's a pain,but not too much for now.
I just hope the lack of thermostat don't hide an other problem,like overheating or something fun like that...
It's really warm here also,but since we are obliged to stay inside ,and it will be reconducted for another two weeks i think,it's a waste.
Best way to remove crud is to change the oil and let the engine run.
also my milage is too low like i put about 16 liter of fuel and it goes about 100 km in the city , my city is Mountainous area, i changed air filter, engine oil and oil filter. what do you think the problem is , also i cleaned the throttle body and idle valve and my idling when it is warm about 800-900 rpm. thank you
Be sure that your tires are balanced,and there is no mud on the wheels.
Be sure that all wheels are not loose.
For your mileage,be sure that you don't have the engine light on.
Poor mileage generally comes from a sensor wich is not working anymore.
Critical sensors for mileage are the oxygen sensor,coolant temperature sensor,and air temperature sensor.
You need to have a working thermostat.
Check the color on your spark plugs,they should be very dark since you burn too much fuel.
@@michaelovitch thank you, i will check
Bonjour j’ai une Ford fiesta de 1997 , j’ai aussi sur bruit style cliquetis au démarrage , sa peut venir de quoi ? Si quelqu’un est un pro des Ford fiesta de l’époque, je suis preneur pour une petite discussion 😉
Peace be upon you, Professor. I have a question on the car. My generation Ck. I have bubbles appearing with it in the radiator. I replaced the cassette 3 times. The machine is clear and smooth. Strong pulling from the cooling off. Returns the text. Normal. Professor The driver did not switch.
Hi,
Bubbles in the radiator can be the fact that air is trapped in the ccoling system,because coolant was repalced recently and not purged enough,or the sign of the head gasket or EGR cooler failure if you have one.
Does the problem occurs with cold engine or warm engine only ?
GRACIAS POR EL VIDEO,MUY BUENO...DOY LINK-PERU
: ) Thank you
Can u tell me ive got ford fiesta 2001 1.3 engine, and it missfires when i give it full throtle. Also missfires up the hill, can u tell me wht can be a problem? When im gentile with thotle it doesnt not missfire. Also i can hear petrol smell from the rear?
Im thinking distribution cap becouse ive replaced sparkplugs?
@@rimeda1830
Full throttle or up the hill = a lot of fuel in the cylinder.
The spark is too weak to ignite all this fuel and dies in it.
Check the air filter first to see if the engine can breath.
Then check the ignition wires.
It's a ignition box,there is no distribution cap.
Test the wires : ground to the negative pole on the battery a copper wire or a screw driver.
Hold it on the insulated part to not shock you with electricity ,and go very close all along each ignition wire.
If a ignition wire is defective,it will leak electricity wich will jump to the ground through th ecopper wire or your screwdriver.
The electricity is not dangerous here.
It's very high voltage but very weak current so it's not dangerous (don't do it if you have a heart pacemaker)
You can spray salty water on the wires too,the spark will leak out from the ingnition wire to the engine or a grounded tool.
You can combine both methods.
Salut, je voudrais savoir combien de quantité d’huile de boîte tu a mis ?
Salut,
2.8 litres pour cette boite.
Il y a souvent deux bouchons sur les boites : celui du bas sert à la vidange,et celui du haut sert au remplissage et fait office de niveau.
On remplit généralement jusqu'à ce que l'huile arrive à ras l'orifice du haut.
Merci
: )
Por curiosidad 😂 , soy de Argentina , pregunto lo comprás a 200 € y ese mismo vehículo a cuanto lo valuan en su mayor validez. 🤐 Perdon la pregunta ❓ pero si podoer , gracias
It can be sold here for 800 euros easily.
I sold it for that.
I invested 200 euros for buying the car,75 for inspection,and 150 for paperwork and new parts so it's safe to use,and made no profit.
yOU MUST SAY IN VIDEO IN ORDER TO KNOW WHAT DO YOU DO IN MECANIC // THINK YOU very GOOD
I understand,thank you : )
Salut jme pose des petites questions, comment savez vous que la noix de cardan n'est pas morte ?
Quelle graisse avez vous utilisé pour les coulisseaux et dois je graisser le haut du piston ainsi que l'intérieur du cache poussière du piston? Si oui quelle graisse svp?
(Réfection étrier super 5)
Pour graisser les coulisseaux, il faut de préférence une graisse qui tienne bien à la température, et qui soit compatible avec les caoutchoucs (soufflet). Il y a une bonne graisse pour ça : la pâte de silicone. Sans hésitation. Pour les pistons, on peut utiliser un peu de liquide de frein je pense, ce n'est pas un endroit censé être graissé de toute façon, ça fonctionne au liquide de frein.
@@ravajaxe merci pour ces infos 😉
@@rustypanda Comme indiqué,du liquide de frein pour insérer les pistons dans des joints neufs.
Non,pas de graisse sur le cache poussière,inutile, c'est fait pour travailler à sec des deux cotés.
Pour les coulisseaux,du silicone,comme dit,ou de la graisse résistant à la température.
J'utilise de la graisse au bisulfure de molybdène pour "travaux publics" ça colle bien,ne dégouline pas,ça ne s'évapore pas et c'est joli.
Un cardan kaput a du jeu,il fait "clici,clic" principalement quand il subit des angles.
là il été encore bien gras,ça limite l'usure,c'était une défaillance récente du soufflet.
@@michaelovitch merci pour ces réponses précises 😉✌️ beau boulot👍
A 8:54, ne pas oublier de mettre le nouveau soufflet du cardan avant de le remonter. Ca m'est arrivé un fois j'étais dégouté.
: )
👍👍👍
: )
Why you not locking the axle same befour sire
Bonsoir !
La question des pneus ça me intéresse !
Après le changement vous faites l'équilibrage ?
Bonjour,
C'est mieux de le faire ,mais si on ne roule pas sur autoroute ,pas vraiment nécessaire.
@@michaelovitch merci beaucoup pour votre retour. Dans mon cas c'est une voiture que fait que route de campagne.
@@suevo_
Pas vraiment nécessaire sur la route de campagne.
Il faut enlever les vieux plombs par contre,pour éviter de déséquilibrer plus que ça ne serait sans les plombs.
Vous pouvez mettre 30 grammes de ça dans le pneu (si il n'est pas taille basse ) :
www.google.com/search?q=airsoft+billes&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk01oV6yPfVbB-QCDo8B_IciKMmhECQ:1586519268460&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwik07Pr5N3oAhUJ8BQKHT8RCSYQ_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=1920&bih=983
ça équilibrera la roue dès que vous roulez.
Moi je l'ai fait et ça marche bien,j'ai aussi essayé avec du liquide de refroidissement (ça ne gèle pas et ça n'abime pas le pneu )
@@michaelovitch merci une fois de plus.
C'est du 155/70 R13, j' irai essayer.
th-cam.com/video/CD5NsWFqnnE/w-d-xo.html
Il y a aussi le poudre d'équilibrage, mais malheureusement il y a pas beaucoup de information sur le thème...
@@suevo_
Il y a aussi les microbilles de verre qui servent à sabler :
c'est pas cher et c'est du verre,donc n'abime rien,et se trouve sous forme de poudre fine.
Il y a peu d'information sur le sujet en France,mais aux Etats Unis c'est courant.
www.google.com/search?q=tire+balancing+beads&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk03lB9y8uEQ-_CJ2iamvmG40MKyobQ:1586598862194&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiD0NOsjeDoAhVV5eAKHeMSCTsQ_AUoA3oECAwQBQ&biw=1920&bih=983
I'm sorry for you to find that in the engine. No thermostat and old oil is very bad. But it runs quite well, at least for some years will be ok. I wonder why my car hestitates being suddenly accelerated hard from idle? Almost stalls then pick up.
What is your car ?
@@michaelovitch kia picanto 2007. Changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, coils. Only from idle.
@@mariusfurtuna9422
Do you have any codes ?
How many miles / kilometers ?
@@michaelovitch No codes, runs fine. Did that from new i think. I have it for 120.000 km. Now 135.000
@@mariusfurtuna9422 Ok
does it do that when you start it cold the morning,or even warm engine after stopping ,or all the time ?
Does it do that when you accelerate moderately also ?
Sehr interessant.
i see services have been skipped. look at that gunk inside the valvetrain!
It can be that,or the fact that the engine was running too cold,the thermostat was removed to hide or bypass the head gasket problem.
it causes deposits of oil fumes,and poor viscosity,rich combustion,and even more deposits from the blowby,full of unburnt fuel vapors.
or both.
Hola hola amigo
Hola : )
Endura engine sounds like a sewing machine.
Not anymore : )
Watch following parts to hear that.
Ce ordine numerica au fișele la buji 1234???
For the wires or the ignition coil ?
@@michaelovitch da mai exact 1 2 3 4 sau alt mod
Sau 1324 cum sint
@@jonasdenis7474 The wires are 1234 (left to right ) from the lower to the higher when you look at them on the side of the intake plenum.
But they need to be plugged correctly on the ignition coil,and their name (1,2,3,4) is on the coil itself to locate them.
Mal calibrado parece un vehículo diesel el sonido
Yes, watch part 4 and 5 you will see why : )
Pfusch!
What does that mean ?
Self-locking nuts are not used twice! That is a botched job!
@@arschgeige7178
On the CV shafts ?
@@michaelovitch No, at the suspension joints and the steering!
@@arschgeige7178
The ISO 2320 norm says it can be re used 15 times without it to loose its required performances.
I just learned that to answer to you.
I just knew if it can be loosened by hand,it can be used again.