My English is far from perfect but did he say they cost one-ninety!? I has been a while since I bought my last pair of LS shoes, and those seem to be some hi-tech sh*t but almost two-hundred that's absurd!
The shoe prices have been getting stupid just because the sport is growing. Hell shoes like the katanas prices have increased and they haven't changed anything on them. It's stupid.
Most climbing shoes are at least $150 dollars unless you buy the more neutral shoes geared towards beginners. Even those can cost upwards of $140 (Scarpa Force V)
Again, nice Video! :) About the shoe: Ah, a update on the Python. With colors of the Cobra 4:99 and more toe rubber. And becuase it is so soft, pd85 (like Testarossa or the 1. Solution) is used. The "no edge" sides are a bit gimmicky, but yeah. All in all, a little Update on the Python. If you don't need the "gimmicks", go for the Python. A little more high end, indoor comp style or something: Theory. And the Solutions climbers climb in Solutions anyway. Let's see how many of the new models we see in the next Boulder Worldcup season. And see if there is still more Scarpa Dragos than anything else ;)
i still don't understand how the existence of this shoe is justified as there is already the futura wich basically does the same (good smearing,etc.). it clearly is not the edging performance as the theory doesn't have a midsole opposing to the futura
Tobias Iding It’s been awhile since I got to stuff my foot in one (they had one on display at Rocktoberfest in my size), but they definitely feel different than Futuras. They feel very much like a rubber bottomed sock; also, they fit a bit wider than the Futura (think of a super soft, squishy Skwama). Technically, the Futura was designed for steep sport climbing (if I remember correctly) so they have a bit more form and shape to them, vs this shoe that’s just...squishy, so I think the mentioned focus on big volume bouldering is accurate. Plus, I’m sure they wanted a new specialized shoe for each style for the Olympics, gotta have that cohesive family look and all. It did feel like a bomber shoe though.
Tobias Iding Mm, other than Adam Ondra and Mei Kotake, most the pro’s with La Sportiva the past year or so (in IFSC World Cup Bouldering) have been using Skwama. This is just a personal opinion, but I imagine that they can get any pair of shoe they want, and if the Futura fit their needs, more people would be wearing them. Once they come out, it should be a fun comparison to try the Theory against the Skwama and Futura and find out.
They've probably already made their calculations and they more than make up for the loss with the sales of their more popular models of shoe like the solution. I imagine the same can be said for shoes specifically designed for crack climbing like the tc pro.
It’s funny that I watch videos where the guys who design these shoes say not to down size by more than a size and a half from your true shoe size because any more than that will actually change the shape of the shoe and lessen its effectiveness because they were designed to maintain their shape and perform optimally when that is allowed to happen. And then I watch these videos and the sales guys are like “yeah, size down 4 sizes for a precise fit...” I think I’ll go with the advise of the guys who actually design the shoes. Oh and it’s physically impossible to size down 4 whole sizes if you actually wear shoes that fit. I think these guys just wear regular shoes that are way too big and then wear climbing shoes that are closer to what their real shoe size is.
This is accurate. I’ve had to exchange the Theory’s 3 times because of what I read everyone saying to size down. I literally couldn’t get my feet in them and I didn’t even size down as far as others claimed they did.
Sheep Music not really anything super new. evolv agro is one example. main issue with that is it makes the break in period really intense without much benefit. there’s no reason that rubber is needed across the entire shoe (with some small exceptions)
The original goal was May - Late June timeframe for a US release. BUT Italy is majorly shut down due to Coronavirus right now. If I was a betting person, I would bet the release will be delayed. -AD
I have the theories, futuras, and genius and I can definitely say that no edge is way better when stepping on volumes and smearing and really tiny holds, but the theories have a way nicer toe hook and heel hook.
Sorry for the sarcasm :-) English isn't actually English anyway. Scumming is basically smearing but using different parts of your body. Head, shoulder, knees, bum, toe etc. Anything but normal smearing.
it actually is quite interesting, they say you need a sensitive, soft heel, but i actually never had any heel or toehooks pop off with my solutions, and it's not like i'm only climbing v5. I actually have climbed a few v11+ outdoors and a bunch of v11+ on plastic in them.
@@Cacovangor yes they do, that was the big deal about the furia air. It is the lightest fully featured climbing shoe, that means a midsole. It goes right under the big toe. The way that the tensioning system aligns with the midsole allows you to drive insane power through the toe. Same goes for the furia s, and drago
most underrated shoe on the market even this long after it's been out
Good stuff, definitely see this gaining popularity in the gym, just need to make sure that rubber on top is at most 1mm.
Gymbro grades are def going up.
The bloopers are amazing
I'm waiting for my pair to arrive, currently climbing with Miura lace and I love them but I'm so keen to try these!
He says Olympic level bouldering, I hear, this shoe won't last long.
Not necessarily, it looks well designed for comp climbing so no reason climbers won't continue using it after the olympics
@@babsds0 I think _(think)_ he means the shoe will wear really quickly. Softer rubber = less durable.
My English is far from perfect but did he say they cost one-ninety!? I has been a while since I bought my last pair of LS shoes, and those seem to be some hi-tech sh*t but almost two-hundred that's absurd!
Scarpa has broken the $200 barrier, in case you didn't notice...
The shoe prices have been getting stupid just because the sport is growing. Hell shoes like the katanas prices have increased and they haven't changed anything on them. It's stupid.
I just bought it for 115€
Most climbing shoes are at least $150 dollars unless you buy the more neutral shoes geared towards beginners. Even those can cost upwards of $140 (Scarpa Force V)
I've seen most retailers setting it at about 115 online
Again, nice Video! :)
About the shoe: Ah, a update on the Python. With colors of the Cobra 4:99 and more toe rubber. And becuase it is so soft, pd85 (like Testarossa or the 1. Solution) is used.
The "no edge" sides are a bit gimmicky, but yeah.
All in all, a little Update on the Python.
If you don't need the "gimmicks", go for the Python. A little more high end, indoor comp style or something: Theory.
And the Solutions climbers climb in Solutions anyway.
Let's see how many of the new models we see in the next Boulder Worldcup season. And see if there is still more Scarpa Dragos than anything else ;)
i still don't understand how the existence of this shoe is justified as there is already the futura wich basically does the same (good smearing,etc.). it clearly is not the edging performance as the theory doesn't have a midsole opposing to the futura
Tobias Iding It’s been awhile since I got to stuff my foot in one (they had one on display at Rocktoberfest in my size), but they definitely feel different than Futuras. They feel very much like a rubber bottomed sock; also, they fit a bit wider than the Futura (think of a super soft, squishy Skwama).
Technically, the Futura was designed for steep sport climbing (if I remember correctly) so they have a bit more form and shape to them, vs this shoe that’s just...squishy, so I think the mentioned focus on big volume bouldering is accurate.
Plus, I’m sure they wanted a new specialized shoe for each style for the Olympics, gotta have that cohesive family look and all.
It did feel like a bomber shoe though.
@@jacobgaylord9277 i get that point but at that level the futura is already beeing used as the volume shoe
Tobias Iding Mm, other than Adam Ondra and Mei Kotake, most the pro’s with La Sportiva the past year or so (in IFSC World Cup Bouldering) have been using Skwama.
This is just a personal opinion, but I imagine that they can get any pair of shoe they want, and if the Futura fit their needs, more people would be wearing them.
Once they come out, it should be a fun comparison to try the Theory against the Skwama and Futura and find out.
@@jacobgaylord9277 yes i agree. i think a big part of la sportiva's shoe lineup is overlapping with each other
They should sell about 20 pairs of those. All those Olympian climbers out there.
They've probably already made their calculations and they more than make up for the loss with the sales of their more popular models of shoe like the solution. I imagine the same can be said for shoes specifically designed for crack climbing like the tc pro.
Hope you have a video on the new drago's, the new colour is 😍😍😍
what new drago? where?
@@sebachan Kai Harada posted a photo on his Instagram story. they look amazing!
hyau23 oh yeah I do remember seeing that
@@WeighMyRack Any news on these shoes? (They are my favorite)
@@jaimediazleal3586 For now we have no news we can share! We'll film all the details at the end of January at the Outdoor Retailer trade show. -AD
Are these also good for outdoor sport climbing?
1:46 i am not sure if this make sence... 85 is almostz right angle and this seems more like 35 to me
Sportiva has some interesting ways they categorize and think about their lasts
It’s funny that I watch videos where the guys who design these shoes say not to down size by more than a size and a half from your true shoe size because any more than that will actually change the shape of the shoe and lessen its effectiveness because they were designed to maintain their shape and perform optimally when that is allowed to happen. And then I watch these videos and the sales guys are like “yeah, size down 4 sizes for a precise fit...” I think I’ll go with the advise of the guys who actually design the shoes. Oh and it’s physically impossible to size down 4 whole sizes if you actually wear shoes that fit. I think these guys just wear regular shoes that are way too big and then wear climbing shoes that are closer to what their real shoe size is.
He never said 4 sizes down...
@@Chris-de2qc did I say “this sales guy?” Learn to listen
This is accurate. I’ve had to exchange the Theory’s 3 times because of what I read everyone saying to size down. I literally couldn’t get my feet in them and I didn’t even size down as far as others claimed they did.
I got into bouldering last month and always wondered why a shoe like this that’s totally covered in rubber didn’t exist
Sheep Music not really anything super new. evolv agro is one example. main issue with that is it makes the break in period really intense without much benefit. there’s no reason that rubber is needed across the entire shoe (with some small exceptions)
When will it be released?
The original goal was May - Late June timeframe for a US release. BUT Italy is majorly shut down due to Coronavirus right now. If I was a betting person, I would bet the release will be delayed. -AD
Alright, thanks 🙏🏽
how does the sizing compare to Solutions?
to answer my own question (lol)
they are wider and fatter than Solutions but I would size the same
I see La Sportiva have ditched the "no edge" technology...
I believe these do have no edge on the sides, just not on the tip of the toe
I have the theories, futuras, and genius and I can definitely say that no edge is way better when stepping on volumes and smearing and really tiny holds, but the theories have a way nicer toe hook and heel hook.
Price?
$190 is what I have in my notes ($5 more than the Solution Comp). -AD
WeighMyRack thanks
Any idea what "scumming" is?
Like English but foreign
heel-toe cam. Or somehow squeeze or crush your foot in or in between features. Stuff like that :)
Sorry for the sarcasm :-) English isn't actually English anyway. Scumming is basically smearing but using different parts of your body. Head, shoulder, knees, bum, toe etc. Anything but normal smearing.
it actually is quite interesting, they say you need a sensitive, soft heel, but i actually never had any heel or toehooks pop off with my solutions, and it's not like i'm only climbing v5. I actually have climbed a few v11+ outdoors and a bunch of v11+ on plastic in them.
You need a midsole. Scarpa makes soft shoes with midsoles
C.A. Moore Drago has no midsole
Neither does the Furia Air 😛
Yes they have (Drago, Furia S, even Furia Air), small « V » midsole under the thumb, very useful to keep power on small holds
@@Cacovangor yes they do, that was the big deal about the furia air. It is the lightest fully featured climbing shoe, that means a midsole. It goes right under the big toe. The way that the tensioning system aligns with the midsole allows you to drive insane power through the toe. Same goes for the furia s, and drago
@@jacobgaylord9277 yes it does, it goes right under the big toe. Just watch the video where they break the whole shoe up into pieces
Good stuff but the drago’s are still on top
i dont see why this shoe and the futura should coexist
Proper no edge is really nice on the right type of limestone and sandstone. You just don't get the same experience with an edged shoe.
Condom foot
Does anyone know if this shoe is vegan?
Logan Melton None of Sportiva’s range are vegan and they don’t really plan to be!
It could be retarded though. Is that pure enough for thé church-goers?!?
It’s marked vegan 🌱!
Jack Thomas. That’s not true. I know at least two. The Oxygym and the Theory are vegan.
first
nuru smeets why do people do this?
@@MF-CLIMBfirst first first first4
copied scarpa vsr
more like a copy of the furia s or drago, being so soft
Very fair
is the shoe vegan friendly?