I'm not sure that climbing shoes in general can really be classified as women and men specific, although I know that they're often marketed that way. Adam Ondra recently was wearing a "women's" solution comp on his left foot and a "men's" solution comp on his right foot for a boulder problem. La Sportiva shoes in particular have the same volume for the same size of both models ("men's theory" vs "women's theory" or "men's solution comp" vs "women's solution comp" etc.) The difference, at least with La Sportiva, is only in the softness of the shoe/sole thickness. Other brands do have the lower volume shoes marketed as the women's shoes or simply low volume. But you see both genders using the same shoes. For me, anyways, it's more about what works well for you and what can you get.
I kinda figured that's what he'd say when he brought it up - figured he wore them for the sensitivity...but sizing and availability challenges make sense as well. Often there are more "women's" items on sale in the outdoor industry - I've often looked for them just to save money but usually the shoes are too small for me.
Just swapped my solutions for theories and I'm in love. Having climbed several months and only indoors, the only difference I notice between them and solutions is they are at least 30% more comfortable. I found the toebox on the solutions not rly fuck up my big toe in several ways (and i tried 3 sizes of solution). Theories feel similar but the rubber is so soft, they seem to allow for more movement when needed without having to be permanently stretched. Its rly the only shoe I can tolerate with P3 and much more forgiving than either models of miura vs, skwama, or solutions. Havent tried futuras yet tho. Thanks for the advice!
What I like about your video is your honesty. Cool that la sportiva let's you do this. Makes me much more comfortable buying them instead of those who just claim that every shoe they have is perfect for everything
skwamas just bring the best fit for me since I have a wide foot. I have several other paires of shoes like theories and some tenayas but I only end up using them because my skwamas are thorn up and need new soles.
Climbing shoe companies are actually moving away from gendering shoes anyway. What we call women’s climbing shoes are just lower volume and typically softer than the men’s counterpart.
Very interesting what you are saying about i.e. the Skwama. For me, the heelhook does not hold at all, I only use them as a slab shoe and for comfy indoor climbs. For anything that I need to stand on an edge or heel/toe hook I use the Scarpa Instinct VS. Its until now the only shoe that actually fit my foot
Had a bad experience with Solution Comps. The straps can break pretty quickly, mine only lasted for 6 months. Might last longer if you're are careful though.
Nice video ! My solutions comp lace juste broke and I have a few questions After trying some shoes in a shop : - i felt like futura was A LOT more confortable and soft than theories (i don't like heelcup of skwamas so it's a no go for me); also theories seems to fit smaller; how does theories stretch and keep their edging power with time ? - i felt that theories were more precise than futura, however I'm afraid that it theories edge will not stand... - how do you repair the lace-up of futura and solution ? Great video, greetings from 🇨🇵❤️
Just a fact check, they all use the same rubber (which isn't stiff). They use the Grip 2 rubber, it being the soft rubber of Vibram. What makes one shoe stiffer than the other is the midsole. So saying this rubber is very stiff, it's inaccurate. Some might have 3 or 3,5mm of rubber, which allows you to have more or less sensitivity.
Well, a thicker sole is stiffer than a thinner sole when they're made of the same material. One thing is the stiffness of the material, and other thing is the stiffness of the element (the sole or the shoe in this case).
I really wanted to like the skwamas when I got them, but funny enough I really didn't like the heel on them. The heel is super stiff and has this reinforcing "bar" of rubber, which would probably be great if it fit my heel, but the heel cup is a good bit too big so I always felt my heel moving around inside the shoe, even when i wasnt heel hooking. I really prefer the way the heel is built in the futuras which allows it to collapse a bit, which sounds bad but just helps fit my foot better.
The Skwama men and women version are quite different in stiffness. The mens sole is too hard it hurts my foot 😂 I actually find Otaki a quite similar shape to Skwama and I liked it better
There are so many explanation videos for La Sportiva shoes. This one is really the best. For example I totally agree with Futura beeing nice shoes but the 'no edge' thing is indeed not good on small edges (which is funny considering the name).
I wished I would finally find a shoe that is normal/high volumen in the toes area, but has a low instep and very small volume in the heel... that's my main struggle: it's either excrutiating pain in the toes and kind of ok heel (but never a bomber heel.... there is just always a big of dead space) or the toes feel ok (uncomfortable, but I can at least step on foothold without a lot of pain) but the heel is absolutely baggy and my heelhooks never stick....
Did you get size 36 for the Skwamas too? I have Solution Comps and want to try Skwamas but don’t have any retailers near me so need tips for sizing. Some people say they went a size down on Skwama?
Hello! Loved this shoe review video! Also, in need of help regarding sizing! My street shoe size is UK8 Currently wearing scarpa drago UK6.5 (tightest fit according to bananafingers website shoe calculator) It is extremely tight and i think i would prefer a UK7 instead The shoe calculator suggested me a UK6 in the solution comp women’s for a tight-ER fit instead, would that be ideal?
If you’re feeling the Drago needed to be a half size up, I would say this is correct. Most folks for a similarly snug fit through the life of the shoe should be about a full euro size down from a Drago for a Solution. be mindful, Scarpa shoes use euro sizing which usually doesn’t align, no shoe sizing standards do, thus using the manufacturer’s standard is the best way. You can get a few millimeters of difference (about half a euro size) just having a US based company and an EU based company converting into UK even though charts would say that is the “conversion”.
I generally find la sportiva requires going down 0.5 - 1 eu size vs scarpa. I went 0.5 down to 38.5 for a pair of solution comps vs my dragons (which were super super tight) I think for you 0.5 EU from your current dragons should be fine. I would use EU sizing - generally 3 EU sizes = 1 UK / US size
i don't get people who say why you are climbing in girl's shoes.. like it's a shoe. for climbing. who the f cares what gender it's for, it's for climbing!!!
I mean I’m sure you do enjoy these models but seeing as this is a sponsored video it’s a little questionable when every shoe is a la sportiva one. Especially considering la sportiva shoes are notoriously ill fitting for Asian feet
My whole quiver of shoes comes from Scarpa. Isn’t uncommon for most climbers after maybe the twentieth pair of shoes to find a preferred brand and diverge off from a familiar model. Chimeras were mine, and now the rest of the line is always in relation to my Chimeras. About the only time I know athletes to head off brand is to use TC Pros for El Cap, and tends to be hush hush.
@@hoseoklee93 Haha seems like we have a different interpretation on "n sizes down" . Anyway thanks for your sharing! Actually I am surprised you don't size down aggressively because I know some of my my friends downsize by 3 to 3.5 on their lasportiva shoes.
its useless to talk about stiff or soft shoes without telling your weight. Its not about the brand or model, it should be about your feet. Your footshape is important to know. Are they wide or thin, high or flat? Egyptian feet (big toe longest), greek feet (2nd toe longest) or roman feet? Female/low volume versions of some shoe models use the softer grip/2 rubber than the stiffer edge rubber from vibram. Some brands got their own rubber like Boreal, 5ten, evolve. For me - weighting ~75kg - all these models are soft shoes. I would not use or recommend any of them for edging. These are soft, performance shoes for overhang climbing/bouldering in high climbing grades. I tested the theory&skwama models. Theory is just ridiculous soft, too sensitive and can be painfull for wide roman feet. Skwama are good for wide, flat feet and they are soft. I still prefer the stiffer edge rubber otaki model as a comfortable allrounder (wide, flat, egyptian/greek shape). A stiff shoe and my model for mostly vertical rock climbing is the miura VS (normal, but high volume, egyptian shape). Similar would be the boostic from Scarpa. For bouldering/gym I use the boreal satori because that shoe is super confortable, soft and the rubber is very durable. For thin flat feet the Tenaya models are absolutely amazing in comfort and btw having the best velcro system of all climbing shoes. Scarpa has a great chart about their models: stiffness, feet shape&form and purpose are listed.
@@beueuehebedududhdh Im saying the weight influences the feeling whether a shoe is stiff or soft: The feeling is realtive. Shoemodel X will feel way different for a 50kg than a 90kg climber. The shoe last is the same, the midsole and the rubber thickness too. When you put pressure on your toes the shoe will bend way more for the heavier person. Making it feel softer for heavy people and stiffer for light climbers. smaller edges will hurt your toes more, the less supportive your shoe is. Skwama might be a good example: it is generally regarded as a soft shoe, because it has a soft rubber and a flexible 2 piece last. Most light climbers will realise that there are softer shoe models and might argue its "stiff" but for a heavy person a Skwama might already be too soft. Just take a belayer sandbag onto your harness and try it out. And those just weighting 15kg usually.
Women's colors are cooler anyway haha
No kidding! Men’s colors are often gaudy and cheesy.
Wish my feet were smaller so I could fit women’s sizes… 100% better colours
Definitely….. the yellow sucks.
The yellows gross but every brand seems to choose it 😿
Totally agree
I'm not sure that climbing shoes in general can really be classified as women and men specific, although I know that they're often marketed that way. Adam Ondra recently was wearing a "women's" solution comp on his left foot and a "men's" solution comp on his right foot for a boulder problem. La Sportiva shoes in particular have the same volume for the same size of both models ("men's theory" vs "women's theory" or "men's solution comp" vs "women's solution comp" etc.) The difference, at least with La Sportiva, is only in the softness of the shoe/sole thickness. Other brands do have the lower volume shoes marketed as the women's shoes or simply low volume. But you see both genders using the same shoes. For me, anyways, it's more about what works well for you and what can you get.
I kinda figured that's what he'd say when he brought it up - figured he wore them for the sensitivity...but sizing and availability challenges make sense as well. Often there are more "women's" items on sale in the outdoor industry - I've often looked for them just to save money but usually the shoes are too small for me.
Just swapped my solutions for theories and I'm in love.
Having climbed several months and only indoors, the only difference I notice between them and solutions is they are at least 30% more comfortable.
I found the toebox on the solutions not rly fuck up my big toe in several ways (and i tried 3 sizes of solution). Theories feel similar but the rubber is so soft, they seem to allow for more movement when needed without having to be permanently stretched.
Its rly the only shoe I can tolerate with P3 and much more forgiving than either models of miura vs, skwama, or solutions. Havent tried futuras yet tho.
Thanks for the advice!
You should really try the katana laces! They are rather an outdoor shoe, but amazingly comfortable despite having a rallye strong performance!
How far did you size down?
What I like about your video is your honesty. Cool that la sportiva let's you do this. Makes me much more comfortable buying them instead of those who just claim that every shoe they have is perfect for everything
Best explanation of the differences between these shoes I've seen!
skwamas just bring the best fit for me since I have a wide foot. I have several other paires of shoes like theories and some tenayas but I only end up using them because my skwamas are thorn up and need new soles.
just got futuras and cant wait to climb in them.. glad to hear you like them
Climbing shoe companies are actually moving away from gendering shoes anyway. What we call women’s climbing shoes are just lower volume and typically softer than the men’s counterpart.
Very interesting what you are saying about i.e. the Skwama.
For me, the heelhook does not hold at all, I only use them as a slab shoe and for comfy indoor climbs.
For anything that I need to stand on an edge or heel/toe hook I use the Scarpa Instinct VS. Its until now the only shoe that actually fit my foot
@bo of I'll have to give them a try once I go shoe shopping the next time ;)
@@mixolt23 for me it's completely the other way! I switched from the edge to skwamas and never went back.
omg i didnt know you had a yt. ive been following your insta for a while now its so cool
Had a bad experience with Solution Comps. The straps can break pretty quickly, mine only lasted for 6 months. Might last longer if you're are careful though.
similar for me, also for the normal solutions. I read on Reddit you should try to tape the ring which the straps go through, I will try that next.
Can we get the sizes of all of these? Would help greatly in purchasing one pair after another 😊
Nice video !
My solutions comp lace juste broke and I have a few questions After trying some shoes in a shop :
- i felt like futura was A LOT more confortable and soft than theories (i don't like heelcup of skwamas so it's a no go for me); also theories seems to fit smaller; how does theories stretch and keep their edging power with time ?
- i felt that theories were more precise than futura, however I'm afraid that it theories edge will not stand...
- how do you repair the lace-up of futura and solution ?
Great video, greetings from 🇨🇵❤️
I use dental floss and sew them!
자막 감사합니다😍
제가 더 감사합니다ㅎㅎ
자막있으니 너무 좋네요..
@@5432-l8m 다음에도 넣어볼게요!
Just a fact check, they all use the same rubber (which isn't stiff). They use the Grip 2 rubber, it being the soft rubber of Vibram. What makes one shoe stiffer than the other is the midsole. So saying this rubber is very stiff, it's inaccurate. Some might have 3 or 3,5mm of rubber, which allows you to have more or less sensitivity.
Well, a thicker sole is stiffer than a thinner sole when they're made of the same material. One thing is the stiffness of the material, and other thing is the stiffness of the element (the sole or the shoe in this case).
I love scarpa instinct vs! Zero break in needed. And 2nd sportiva miura vs but the break in period not so great.
I really wanted to like the skwamas when I got them, but funny enough I really didn't like the heel on them. The heel is super stiff and has this reinforcing "bar" of rubber, which would probably be great if it fit my heel, but the heel cup is a good bit too big so I always felt my heel moving around inside the shoe, even when i wasnt heel hooking. I really prefer the way the heel is built in the futuras which allows it to collapse a bit, which sounds bad but just helps fit my foot better.
The Skwama men and women version are quite different in stiffness. The mens sole is too hard it hurts my foot 😂
I actually find Otaki a quite similar shape to Skwama and I liked it better
The Skwama has a heel similar to the original Solution I think, so that makes sense
There are so many explanation videos for La Sportiva shoes. This one is really the best. For example I totally agree with Futura beeing nice shoes but the 'no edge' thing is indeed not good on small edges (which is funny considering the name).
드뎌 한글 자막!
자막 없이 한번 키고 한번 두번보라구 브로!
한글자막 너무 감사합니다!!!
제가 더 감사합니다!
Ondra wore this women's solution comp. Let that guy ask Adam. And btw, their colors are much better.
영어는 어디서 배우셨어요? 영어 너무 잘하세요. 영어, 클라이밍 모두 완벽
영어는 수능특강이 국룰 아니겠습니까ㅎㅎㅎ
사실 잘하는정도는 아니고 더듬더듬 중얼대는 수준이지만 감사합니다ㅎㅎ
Really enjoy your insights! Which one recommend for indoor only?
Very nice. KEEP em coming!
very useful opinions! thanks
Visually it's super clear, thanks!
If you could have only 2, what those would be?
Solutions and Futuras!
I get the women's shoes because they are softer (to me) and the colors are better lol
Are your sizes the same among those models? Does the Mantra has more edging power than Futura?
All the same! EU36 for all shoes in the video. And I didn't feel much difference between Mantra and Futura
I wished I would finally find a shoe that is normal/high volumen in the toes area, but has a low instep and very small volume in the heel... that's my main struggle: it's either excrutiating pain in the toes and kind of ok heel (but never a bomber heel.... there is just always a big of dead space) or the toes feel ok (uncomfortable, but I can at least step on foothold without a lot of pain) but the heel is absolutely baggy and my heelhooks never stick....
Agree, solution comp are best, at least as a sport climber!
Did you get size 36 for the Skwamas too? I have Solution Comps and want to try Skwamas but don’t have any retailers near me so need tips for sizing. Some people say they went a size down on Skwama?
@@imelnol you can definitely go down a size with Skeama. I do that too
Great explanations 👌. Thanks
Interested in where I could get those shoe bags you have in the video.
they come with the shoes!
missed you
what is the better in indoor climbing Las portiva comp or SCARPA
Instinct VSR - Climbing shoes?
How do u keep them clean/ not smelling bad? And how long they last?
잘 봤습니다! 감사합니다!!
Hello! Loved this shoe review video! Also, in need of help regarding sizing!
My street shoe size is UK8
Currently wearing scarpa drago UK6.5 (tightest fit according to bananafingers website shoe calculator)
It is extremely tight and i think i would prefer a UK7 instead
The shoe calculator suggested me a UK6 in the solution comp women’s for a tight-ER fit instead, would that be ideal?
If you’re feeling the Drago needed to be a half size up, I would say this is correct. Most folks for a similarly snug fit through the life of the shoe should be about a full euro size down from a Drago for a Solution. be mindful, Scarpa shoes use euro sizing which usually doesn’t align, no shoe sizing standards do, thus using the manufacturer’s standard is the best way. You can get a few millimeters of difference (about half a euro size) just having a US based company and an EU based company converting into UK even though charts would say that is the “conversion”.
I generally find la sportiva requires going down 0.5 - 1 eu size vs scarpa. I went 0.5 down to 38.5 for a pair of solution comps vs my dragons (which were super super tight) I think for you 0.5 EU from your current dragons should be fine. I would use EU sizing - generally 3 EU sizes = 1 UK / US size
Thats why i prefer unisex colors instead!
how much do you size down in skwamas?
Are all these shoes the same size (36 EU)?
yes!
how tall are you if u dont mind me asking
168cm!
Have you every tried the butora shoes?
i don't get people who say why you are climbing in girl's shoes.. like it's a shoe. for climbing. who the f cares what gender it's for, it's for climbing!!!
have you ever tried any scarpa shoes?
He’s sponsored by la slortiva
Lad how is your finger?
almost fully healed!
@@hoseoklee93 good to hear :)
I mean I’m sure you do enjoy these models but seeing as this is a sponsored video it’s a little questionable when every shoe is a la sportiva one. Especially considering la sportiva shoes are notoriously ill fitting for Asian feet
I've always been wearing sportiva shoes even before getting sponsored, like ever since I first started climbing
My whole quiver of shoes comes from Scarpa. Isn’t uncommon for most climbers after maybe the twentieth pair of shoes to find a preferred brand and diverge off from a familiar model. Chimeras were mine, and now the rest of the line is always in relation to my Chimeras. About the only time I know athletes to head off brand is to use TC Pros for El Cap, and tends to be hush hush.
man you're great, but sorry actually you're downsizing 2 not 3.. 😅
L’uomo che usa di meno i piedi al mondo fa le recensioni delle scarpette?!?!?😂😂😂😂😂
The women solution comp got a way cooler look than the men, wish we could have them in men
the Theory hurts my feet so bad indoor.. I was so disappointed. I think I am back to my solutions because of it 😢 too soft
Train your toes...
street shoe size 38 --> lasportiva size 36, so is it 2 sizes down? why do you say 3 sizes down?
It’s a mistake chill out
haha sorry I was too tired but I think it's actually 4 size down. "38 - 37.5 - 37 - 36.5 - 36"
@@hoseoklee93 Haha seems like we have a different interpretation on "n sizes down" . Anyway thanks for your sharing! Actually I am surprised you don't size down aggressively because I know some of my my friends downsize by 3 to 3.5 on their lasportiva shoes.
한국인 유튜브 영상을 보는데 한글자막을 켜야 하다니 ㅠ.ㅠ
어쩔수없어요 외국애들이 더 많이봐서ㅎㅎ
°°°
its useless to talk about stiff or soft shoes without telling your weight. Its not about the brand or model, it should be about your feet. Your footshape is important to know. Are they wide or thin, high or flat? Egyptian feet (big toe longest), greek feet (2nd toe longest) or roman feet? Female/low volume versions of some shoe models use the softer grip/2 rubber than the stiffer edge rubber from vibram. Some brands got their own rubber like Boreal, 5ten, evolve. For me - weighting ~75kg - all these models are soft shoes. I would not use or recommend any of them for edging. These are soft, performance shoes for overhang climbing/bouldering in high climbing grades. I tested the theory&skwama models. Theory is just ridiculous soft, too sensitive and can be painfull for wide roman feet. Skwama are good for wide, flat feet and they are soft. I still prefer the stiffer edge rubber otaki model as a comfortable allrounder (wide, flat, egyptian/greek shape). A stiff shoe and my model for mostly vertical rock climbing is the miura VS (normal, but high volume, egyptian shape). Similar would be the boostic from Scarpa. For bouldering/gym I use the boreal satori because that shoe is super confortable, soft and the rubber is very durable. For thin flat feet the Tenaya models are absolutely amazing in comfort and btw having the best velcro system of all climbing shoes. Scarpa has a great chart about their models: stiffness, feet shape&form and purpose are listed.
I weigh 120 and the "softer" shoes hurt my feet terribly. I also have super narrow feet with high arches and the theories were terrible
No wtf lol? Why is the weight important for the stiffness?
@@beueuehebedududhdh Im saying the weight influences the feeling whether a shoe is stiff or soft: The feeling is realtive. Shoemodel X will feel way different for a 50kg than a 90kg climber. The shoe last is the same, the midsole and the rubber thickness too. When you put pressure on your toes the shoe will bend way more for the heavier person. Making it feel softer for heavy people and stiffer for light climbers. smaller edges will hurt your toes more, the less supportive your shoe is.
Skwama might be a good example: it is generally regarded as a soft shoe, because it has a soft rubber and a flexible 2 piece last. Most light climbers will realise that there are softer shoe models and might argue its "stiff" but for a heavy person a Skwama might already be too soft. Just take a belayer sandbag onto your harness and try it out. And those just weighting 15kg usually.
ρ尺ｏΜ𝐎ᔕᗰ 😳