Making a walnut / resin table top for pennies
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- #onehandedwoodworking #nervedamage #pennytoptable
In this video I attempt a project I have been wanting to do for a long time by making a penny coffee table top edged with walnut and coated in clear resin. The video takes you through all of the stages of construction if this is something you are thinking of doing yourself.
If you have any questions regarding the build then fire away in the comments section. If you enjoyed the video then please give it a thumbs up and consider subscribing to my channel. I have provided links below for the resin related products I used and a link for the hard wax oil.
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/ l_and_p_hand_i_craft
Contact us at: 75handicraft@gmail.com
Heidelberg Hard Wax Oil: www.amicusuk.co
Polypropylene sheets:
www.easycompos...
Glasscast 3 clear epoxy resin: www.easycompos...
Resin spreaders:
www.easycompos...
What an absolute corker, mate. 👍
There is nothing you cannot accomplish when you set your mind to it. 👌
As for those mitres, the more you do, the better they get.
Hats off to you my friend, well done, looks amazing. 👏👏👏👏
Thanks Bill again for your kind words sir😀. I was being quite hard on myself with the mitres, once I’d ‘tidied’ them up with a bit of sanding and a couple of light passes with the plane, they looked fine. As you say though the more I do the better (hopefully) they’ll get😀
@@Hand-i-Craft we are our own worst critics.
Thing is, we know exactly where we messed up, and that's where our eye is drawn to, so we tell people the flaws, so they know we acknowledged them, without them telling us! 😉
Hehehehe😂
Usual high standard of work here mate ! Garden looks good too 😉
Cheers mucka😀
Incredible, incredible work ❤️, best informative video i have watched on youtube, till now.
Thank you for your very kind comment, much appreciated 😀😀👍👍
Another great job, well done.👍🥃🏴
Cheers Kenny. Really happy with this one, lot of prep but well worth it for the final outcome 😀🥃
Beautiful table
Thank you for your very kind comment, much appreciated 😀😀👍👍
Simply I really enjoyed watching this :)) Thank you! And really keep up the good work. Genuine man!
Thank you Hesron for the kind feedback😀, much appreciated!
Your videos are getting better and better, looking more and more confident in front of the camera. Great project 👍👍👌👌
Thanks humble, I’ve been wanting to try this for ages. Very happy with the outcome, just need to make some legs for it now😀
Excellent!!
Cheers Rodger 😀
Very nicely done Leo. You should be proud of that one 😁👍. I made the "expensive mistake" with a resin leak when I made my "penny box" vid recently, if you want a laugh... check out how I stopped it...lol. Also just a word from personal experience... don't rely on your JCB for mitres 🙁. I had the same one and could never get a decent joint. I now use a Metabo. Great vids, glad I found your channel. Keep up the awesomeness 😁👍.
Frank Williams Nice one, thanks Frank for the very kind comment😀. I will head over and have a look at the penny box video this morning. I’ve had the JCB SMS for around four years and (once I replaced the blade with a half decent one) has served me well for general 90 degree cuts etc, but now I’m doing more intricate and stuff that requires a greater degree of accuracy, it is just not up to the job unfortunately. It’s not retired yet though as I’ve given it to one of my neighbours who’ll get good use from it. I released an update video a couple of weeks ago and talked about investing some money in myself to build up a little part time business in making things like the chopping boards and penny tables to order. Decided to upgrade some of my tools and the mitre saw is one of them. Still love my budget tools though, the Ferrex impact driver is incredible value for money! 😀
Very nice table sir
Thanks Brandon for the kind feedback, much appreciated 😀
Great job. I’ve done a couple of table tops with resin, but I used circles of wood cut cut from smaller branches that I’d had in my wood pile for while. The problem with the wood is its porous so you get bubbles, a lot of work to keep going over with the blow lamp to pop them .
Spot on Tony, as I said in the video, give it half a chance resin will soak into anything. The caulk around the edges helped by creating a barrier between the resin and the wood, but even then I still got some bubbles around the edges and had to keep checking and use the heat gun very lightly. The Glasscast 3 is better at reducing the bubbles, but the offshoot of this is it’s only suitable for slim pours. I think the ultimate solution is the degassing chamber thing, but you’re looking at £500 plus which isn’t on my horizon to be honest. Thanks for the comment 😀
Tony, was just thinking last night what you said in regards to porous wood and the bubbles. I read about a technique a while back, although I haven’t tried it myself, where people basically paint a thin layer of resin onto the wood and let it cure to the B stage before then applying the main pour. Apparently it creates like a protective membrane and helps to reduce the bubble issue. Maybe worth a try?
Hand-i-Craft That’s a good idea. Funnily enough I did a thin layer first to stick down the wood slices, but I didn’t coat the tops, so close and yet so far hahahah!
i think this might answer my above question
or its probably below now
Thank you..
Hi Again Leo. I think I may need to join a group!! I need to sit around in a circle and announce I am addicted to Hand-i-Craft videos. I really think I need help. 😆 . Anyway i am new to woodworking and I am looking for something to fill my time with upcoming retirement. May I please ask where you got the top clams from(time stamp 7.11). You have already given me the confidence for my first job when I retire, which is to build a shed in my backyard (purchased the decking risers yesterday via your link). I mean a fool like me with a hammer and a saw, what could possibly go wrong?
Thanks for the comment 101 and apologies for such a late reply. It was placed in the 'held for review' folder that I never check and also have no idea why🤷♂️. I got those clamps from Rutlands which are great. If you sign up to their email thing they have offers on them occasionally. Bessey are the best I think, but you also pay a lot more for those! Thanks for watching, best wishes, Leo👍
Can I borrow you to mow my lawn - you don't half do it fast! Seriously, another cracking build. Great result, and Dusty was sounding fine as well.
😀Superspeed mowing😀. Thanks ticktock, very happy with the final result😀
nice table mate, can you help me clear something up. I watch all these epoxy videos and some people after thet pour the epoxy they get the sander out and polish and polish and polish it can you tell me why you didnt have to? Is it something to do with it being on wood? Cheers mate, the thought of all that polishing puts me right off
Hello James, cheers for the message. The reason why I got away with no sanding / polishing on this one is because it is Glasscast 3 which is a thin pour epoxy of up to 3mm that leaves a lovely finish requiring no sanding. Well I say that, that is providing there are no imperfections like bubbles etc which if there are it’s get the sander out and have many hours spare 😂😂. With the deeper pour stuff for the likes of resin tables then yes you will need to sand and polish it to your desired effect, but not so with Glasscast 3👍👍
Great video and really good use for coke, much better then putting in your body, image if it cleans metal so well what does it do to your insides.
Exactly Dave, first bottle of Coca-Cola I’ve bought in over twenty years😀
another fine video BEER bloody good idea did i miss , did you not sand resin or is it the diffrent resin you use that doesn't need sanding so you have to be oh so level ?
'
Thanks traviss, yes you’re right no sanding on this one. Glasscast 3 is designed for thin pouring and a clear finish, which it did. The pictures don’t do it justice of how good it looks. The glasscast 50 I’ve used before is a much deeper pour and sanded etc. You can sand the Glasscast 3 I believe, but I felt no need to as I was really happy with it. As I said in the video it’s essential then that you check everything is level before you pour! 😀
Nice project. Thanks for sharing. The video is very clear, everything step by step explained. I admire your patience. Gluing all those coins on the surface..
Was that a necessary step? I can imagine the epoxy would bind them to the surface. Or would they start floating away when you pour the resin?
Thanks Hans. Having worked a bit with resin now I can say with a decent degree of certainty, yes the pennies needed glueing down. If you try any project with resin and you are inserting an inlay of some form, it needs to be secured to the base otherwise the resin will submerge under it and lift it to the surface. It is a great product, but also a difficult product to work with, I’ve made mistakes like in my oak/resin top table which I learnt a great deal from, hence my ‘belt and braces’ approach😀. Glueing the coins took ages, but when I changed up to the silicone gun with some No More Nails instead of a drop of superglue on each coin, it was a lot quicker😀.
@@Hand-i-Craft Thanks for explaining why the pennies had to be glued down.
Wouldn't been more cost effective to use plywood over all the cost of the products you had to buy for the MDF? Nice job on the end result... using one hand!
Thanks Wayne. I used MDF. as it was what I already had. I think with plywood the only prep difference would be not applying the MDF sealer. I’d still have to undercoat it before applying the top coat. I already had the sealer as I’d used it on my worktops and the top coat was a leftover can from decorating a couple of years ago that never got opened😀. I bought the acrylic primer undercoat and that’s really good stuff which I’ll definitely use on future MDF based projects.
Saw your table great job,silly question how do you estimate the number of 2p to use.Thanks
david lacey Hello david, thanks for the message. If you’re using 2p’s they are 25mm in diameter, 1p’s are 20mm. If you intend to interlock the pennies like I did then take a couple of mm off the diameter for the length of the table. Then it’s a case of how big you want to build the table. Say the table top is 900mm x 500mm using 1p’s that are interlocked. So 900 / 18= 50, 500 / 20 = 25. 50x25=1250 (approximate) pennies needed. I hope this makes some sense, if not get back to me 😀
@@Hand-i-Craft The same idea but using beer bottle caps instead.Many Thanks for the reply.😀😀 makes sense.
david lacey Great idea david and good luck with the project. Make sure to do some homework on securing the bottle tops and the best way to do it. The only reason I say this is you don’t want air trapped under them as when the resin is poured, any trapped air would likely escape leading to lots of bubbles in the resin that you can remove in the initial stage with a heat gun, but can’t remove if they escape in the final curing. I’m only thinking on my feet here, it might be possible to pour a thin layer of resin or paint a layer of resin and use that to secure the bottle tops making it air tight, then applying a covering layer? I’m sure there will be plenty of videos out there on this. Would be great if you let me know how you get on. Best wishes, Leo
@@Hand-i-Craft Many Thanks for the reply leo.I better watch some youtube,to see how other do it,like your one for making a mould.Keep up the good work you do.😀
Ciao
Is it easy to clean resin off of paddle and other items?
Apologies Rodney I’m not 100% sure what you mean, but if you mean the mixing paddle then if you buy the polypropylene mixing stick then yes the resin separates easily. The metal paint mixer I use I just leave over the resin bowl for the mixture to fall off and had no issues with using it again👍👍
Sorry Rodney, just read it back again. All the casings I use are made from polypropylene and resin doesn’t stick to that at all. It just ‘pops’ off once cured 👍😀👍😀
Another brilliant video, I have just started a channel as well, what video editor do you use?
Cheers BBQ. I use iMovie as I’ve had the same iMac for around 7 years. I film everything on my iPhone too so it kind of all works well together😀
You sound half way between Manc & Scouse? Warrington?
😀Parents are scousers and I’ve lived in Liverpool now for over 25 years, but I was brought up in Wigan and went to school in Bolton so you’re pretty spot on! 😀
the channel is called hand-i-craft and you only used one arm to do this piece of art..
Im dead 😂👏👏👏
Zéyad masoud Thanks Zeyad for the kind comment, much appreciated 😀😀
Could you paint resin hardener onto places likely to leek? It would act as a sealant.
My honest answer mrsillywalk is, I don’t know. The best method in my opinion is to form a mould that is sealed as much as possible using the methods I suggest. Are you suggesting painting just the hardener to joints of polypropylene and letting it fully cure? I wonder what would happen when you then do the resin pour? The sealant hardener wouldn’t stick to the polypropylene but would it bond to the table? There is also the issue of cost and time. With caulk on the inside of my moulds it is cheap and sets quickly. With resin hardener it is expensive and can take a long time to fully cure. Have you tried the method you suggested and if so, how did you get on? Cheers
@@Hand-i-Craft I haven't done this. I was just speculating that it may be a fail/safe for your potentially leaking areas and done just before the pour could solidify the resin quickly enough to be a block.
What's the working time when spreading ?
Darren Devey Using Glasscast 3 you’ve got plenty of time Darren. It’s all dependent obviously on the room you’re in (temp etc) but I’d say you could work it for up to an hour before you start to see a curing process.
One tip I have picked up recently is to put the resin containers in a bucket of warm water before you start to mix the resin with the hardener. It makes the resin a lot ‘runnier’ in texture so to speak, really helps with eliminating bubbles and you can work with it longer before it starts to go to the B stage👍😀
@@Hand-i-Craft thank you for the reply.... am thinking of doin a bar countertop using records (45s).. never used resin before so it's a bit scary.. like you say it's not cheap so dont want to mess up or not order/mix enough...
Darren Devey That sounds like a great idea. If I could offer one suggestion Darren is to maybe try it out on a smaller scale first? Maybe just one or two 45’s and they’d make great placemats for your tea! Also you’d get to know how it works on a small scale before ploughing a chunk of cash into the bar top!
Good luck and let me know how you get on 😀👍
@@Hand-i-Craft good idea 👍
Hi great video the table LOOKS GREAT is this the finish you used on the Walnut Thanks HD External Oil 850-0077
Hello Michael, many thanks for the kind words. The product you reference isn’t the one I use, that is the external oil. The one I use is the internal wax/oil, it’s also food and toy safe so suitable for chopping boards or kids toys. It’s the 811-0001 version. I think this is a link for a description of it: www.amicusuk.co/blogs/post/Internal-Oil
@@Hand-i-Craft Thanks
I bet that was a giggle with one arm mate
Paul Lynch Loved the finished product pal, but glueing down well over 1000 pennies with one arm tested even my patience to its absolute limit😂
Leo build me one with pound coins and i'll give you fifty quid mate!
🤔🤔🤔Leave that one with me pal. Don’t call me, I’ll call you😂😂😂
Its quite impressive how you do all this with 1 arm. Top job & looks amazing.
Check out my channel if you want i could do with all the advice i can get. Im new to all this youtube stuff.
Cheers Grumpy, apologies for late reply as it was held as ‘potentially spam’ for which I have no idea🤷♂️. Really happy with the finished product, lot of work but well worth it😀