2006 Volkswagen Beetle (6Amp Parasitic Draw)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- My first video on how to diagnose a parasitic draw using fuse pulling method, fuse and wiring diagrams while monitoring circuit amperage on a 2006 vw beetle. Hope you enjoy and thanks for watching.
One of the best auto diagnostic channels! Keep up the good work!
Thank you. This fixed a problem I’ve been dealing with for 2 years. Thanks man.
well done. I worked at a VW dealer in the 1980's we had the same problems like this...some times i would speed 5 days on this. and the customer would decline repair. so i would only bring home an $18 pay check...that is the life of a flat rate mechanic. at a croaked dealership.
That sounds terrible
Excellent work.
I've been told that this has an effect on the air bag module fault.
Nice job and explanation of the issues. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the support. Will do
Thanks for sharing the video something that drains the batteries can be very hard to find good job breaking it down
I plugged out the seat. And start the car let it crank 20 minutes. Then I backed home. The car can start up after sitting 12 hours . I think the problem solved! Really thanks
I watch ScannerDanner and he mentioned your TH-cam channel, glad to see another good auto diagnostic source. One thing I picked up from this video was tricking the car to 'go to sleep' which is a new step in the classic parasitic drain testing procedure.
Thinking about the bad radio issue (from an electronics geek point of view) I would guess that that large a parasitic draw would be from the power input section of the radio (where the +12V enters the radio it will have a voltage regulator that drops it down the needed voltage and filters the electrical noise out).
Radios can be damaged by a short from the speaker output to ground but that would probably just blow the amplifier chip and not cause such a large draw with it off. It was probably still a good idea to check the speaker outputs for shorts to ground (or too each other) as there is a (slim) possibility that is what cause the problem. If the speaker outputs go to the speakers you will read a low ohm reading (4 to 8 ohms) across the speaker wires. If the speaker outputs are going into an amp you will probably read a higher resistance (make sure the amp is off of course :) )
Just some thoughts...
Thank you for the tip. And thank you for supporting this channel
would that be a good idea to just measure the resistance of a circuit without knowing what is in that circuit?
for all i know there could be a capacitor in parallel, perhaps inside the amp, that could fry your meter.
Nice work. I still would have done one more check with the radio. I would leave the contact from the cd-changer and ampf disconected. Just to check that the accesories not are waking up the radio. 👍 Like your work and channel!
Thank you for the support
I like how you let it sit overnight and verified it. crazy how it had two bad circuits.
Right. What are the chances? I didn't have to let it sit overnight but it came from another shop I just wanted to make sure it was ok
Thank you so much
You solved my problem with the battery draining
Keep up the good work!!
😊
Geat job. You explain things very well. keep rockin ..
Great find my friend!
Awesome job 👏👍
Quick question from watching your fault finding it seemed quite quick with the correct equipment, i sent my partners car to auto electrician to find out why brand new battery would drain in 2 days . It took them nearly 3 hours to fault find and locate it was the head unit that is damaged and draining the battery because would not turn off properly. So they took out fuse would you say it would take nearly 3 hours to conduct the fault finding for those results ?
Sons car has same problem. what was the actual fix? new wiring or new aftermarket radio?
Hi what I don't get about the heated seats is they are supposed to run only when the key is in the on or car running condition it should get its power from the X relay or known as the relief relay how the seat switch got power with the key in the off position I have seen quite a few MK4 switch go bad and the seats heaters would not turn off only with the key off or when the temperature sensors in the seat would shut it off for a moment then come on again as soon as the elements would cool down why you did not unplugged the seat switch ? The switch should have some live power and some in the key on position still can't figure why the seat would get power with no key in the ignition lock ?
Maybe there was another problem with the switch I don't know because I didn't go that far But the wiring being shorted together under the seat was definitely an issue and my draw went away with the faulty components unplugged. That's all the customer wanted
V10PDTDI the heated seats on this model are controlled by a module designated J131/132. "Driver and Pax seat heater module" respectfully. It is incorporated as an all in one module assembly which controls other seat functions as well. Not uncommon for it to "stick on" and leave the heaters in the on position and kill the battery. If you take one of these apart, all it is are micro relays soldered to a circuit board. The relay contacts fail in the on position leaving a continuous feed to the component.
Btw I also came from Paul's channel. Been a sub for a while. Nice to see another fellow German auto technician. I've been personally working on Zi Germans for almost 15 years.
Thanks for the info and insight as to why the seat had power. I did this video a while ago so I don't remember all the circuitry. Also thanks for the support on my channel I appreciate it very much. I have been working on Vw for about 5 years now. You never know what your going to find. Lol
I had a similar problem with a p38 Range Rover not with the seats but with the heated mirrors controlled in the same way .
👍👍👍
I am currently trying to diagnose an 8-amp draw on a 2006 Beetle. At first I thought it was a bad diode in the Alternator, but I removed the alternator and had it rebuilt. After installing the rebuilt alternator, I still have the draw.
I have to disconnect fuses 2, 4, and 5 from the fuse box on top of the battery and unplug the big 3-pin connector from the back of the same fuse box to get the draw to go away. If I connect any 1 of those 4 connections, the entire 8-amp draw comes back.
I have wiring diagrams for the fuse boxes, but no other wiring diagrams.
The fuses in question are for the alternator (fuse 5), the contact relief relay J39 (fuse 4), whatever that is, and the fuel pump relay J17 (fuse 2). I do not know what the 3 pin connector is connected to or what it is for.
I think the above information means all those circuits must have a common path to ground, but I would think there would have to be significant damage to some wiring or electrical components for that to be the case. However, without circuit diagrams, I cannot be certain.
I am doing this work as a favor for a friend, who cannot afford to buy the Bentley manual to get the wiring diagrams. So far, I have not been able to find the wiring diagrams anywhere else for a price my friend could afford, but I will look around some more.
Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be or additional diagnostic procedures I should try?
I had an alternator pulling a big draw like that too. You have to remove the 10 mm nut that connects the cable to the strip fuse inside the little box in top of the battery. Try that first. I would need to see a wiring diagram to try and piece all your info together and look for a common component
Are you still pulling fuses when you are checking the parasitic current draw?only asking as this can actually waken things up giving false readings 👍
Where do you get wiring diagrams?
Hello, watch your videos love how you explain everything. Thanks for sharing and keep it up. Have an 03 VW Jetta 2.0. Have entermittent battery light come on and off, checked battery and alternator was good. Happens more while driving the car. Wiggled all wire where alternator connects to the batter. Can’t find any obvious reasons. Any advice would be appreciated.
Check the 4 pin connector near the starter. Wires that go to the alternator always corrode and break in that area. Also the fuse box on top of the battery wires like to melt there too
Thank you for the support.
awesome
What if I have a convertible - no heated seats? I have this same problem
I have a 2000 bottle tdi with fuse 14 draw, wish you could make a video on that one. Everyone with the same problem on forums fade away never to be heard of again.
Fuse 14, what’s on that circuit?
@Positive Lead Diagnostics (Tommy Wolfe) If I pull the fuse the draw goes away, but the door locks don't work with the remote, the interior lights don't work and window actuators don't work. If the fuse is in, everything works but with a draw exept if you lock the doors then the draw goes away.
When you lock the car, there is no draw? That would mean the vehicle is going to sleep which is what it’s supposed to do. How long have you monitored the draw without locking the doors? I bet eventually the vehicle goes to sleep.
I had a POS 06 Beetle convertible with a 2amp parasitic draw that also turned out to be the sound system fuse 42 circuit too.. I assume it's an internal radio problem like your video, but I just removed the 25A fuse and highlighted the spot fuse came from with orange nail polish( heisted from the wife)
Check your radio AMP, (located in the trunk right near the left taillight, Says Monsoon in red letters ) see if it is warm after the car sits for a while. i'm troubleshooting mine right now with no luck.
The nightmare problem! My friend’s beetle changed 4 batteries
Is the amp in the radio?
I have a 2002 beetle took it to a shop and still can’t find the draw my radio is unplugged and all and after 3 or 4 days it’s dead completely
just curious why you are pulling fuses rather than measure the drop across them ...
That was just the method I chose at the time. Either one works I suppose.
my concern with pulling fuses as it may wake modules up, and delay things, that's all
great job as always ..!!
It did cause some modules to wake up and some amperage jumps. A few delays but it wasn't too bad. Il go with the voltage drop method next time. Thanks for your support!!
I have the same problem with my 2005 beetle can't find someone to fix it
thanks for your videos I stay in the UK so have some electronic diagnostic PDF articles on audi/vw or any other euro car if u want to give me your email I'll send them via Dropbox PS found u through Paul Danner cheers sandy
Thanks for your support sandy. Il send you my email
Silly customer !!
Didn't want it fixed ..What can you do
Why does this video look & sound like your nicking someones car? Are you not supposed to be filming?