I recently used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser on a Viking Valhalla VAL-341 2015 Sneaky Pete cue I bought used. I dampened mine with warm water and rung it out and this is how they tell u to use them on the box they come in also. The shaft on the VAL-341 was heavily soiled in green and blue chalk. It came out super clean within about a minute's use. I also wiped the shaft off with a dry towel after using the eraser on it. Looked TOTALLY like a whole brand new pool cue, simply amazing! Afterwards I put a nice coat of wax on the cue shaft and let it soak into the wood overnight and then burnished it with a piece of un-dyed leather with minimal friction to buff and burnish the wax 12 hours or so later the next day. I also did this to a McDermott Lucky L12 (Dealer Customized L12 with solid black color of Irish Linen wrap, butt plate and joint collar color (# of units produced and name of dealer who customized it is unknown, McDermott won't say so don't ask please) cue that was semi-soiled in chalk the same night using the same procedure. Mr Clean Magic Eraser totally amazed me on this!
Good stuff. When using DNA or IA (do not use "rubbing" A...it contains oils), frequently rotate the cloth to a clean section. Unless you do, you'll be pushing the chalk/dirt/mung into the wood. You want to get it all off the wood and into the cloth. When done, burnish the wood and then apply paste wax. Johnson's Paste Wax is good stuff. "Cue wax" is the same stuff at a higher price.
if you water the magic eraser, squeeze the exces water from it and then rub it over the shaft, its white in 3 - 4 rubs depending on how much dirt and how long the dirt has been on it, then just dry the shaft with some paper towells and it looks brand new, been doing it this way for the past 4 years on my shafts and they are still straight :-P
Water on your cue shaft is the worst thing you can do. Moisture is the #1 Enemy to your shaft, and a good way to raise the grain of the wood and warp it. You may actually want to burnish it later with leather.
i know what water is to wood, i studied woodwork but being wet for 5 seconds and getting dried instantly isnt going to warp my shaft, which is radial laminated and not 1 piece, but i understand :)
You are right and he is wrong , ITR Y56 . I have used a moistened Magic Eraser to clean my shaft and ferrule for nearly 20 years and it has NEVER warped and always looks clean and bright. The ferrule has NO chalk on it after cleaning. Water will not harm a cue if you dry it with a CLEAN paper towel right away and don't let the water sit on the bare wood.And there is nothing special about "denatured" alcohol ... it is just ethyl alcohol with methyl alcohol added to discourage stupid people from drinking it. It is just to make it unpalatable .It doesn't change the basic properties of ethanol. No need to take my word for it . Look it up . I just converted that 20 year old cue to a break cue since I have a newer playing cue .(a Pechauer that I love and also clean with a moistened Magic Eraser.)
GOJO works the best hands down cleans in one application the pumice cleans the pores with out taking down the wood and the oils in it seals the wood Perfectly. I use to use alcohol but dries the wood . Mineral Spirits is in the GOJO and is great on wood. Just wipe it down with a dry cloth and you will see the shaft will look like new :) You can thank me later .
The best way to clean a shaft is rather not let the chalk stuck. You have to clean it after you play right away. The dirt will be removed right away with no effort. Works great for me and my shaft always look like new.
All you have to do with the denatured alcohol is dampen, not soak, a magic eraser and use it like that, then go right behind it with a clean dry cloth to make sure you get the excess liquid up right away. Putting that much denatured alcohol on the rag to that predator shaft is adding too much alcohol to the shaft spices which could make them separate and it has been done before. After you clean the shaft the fibers will stick up so you will want to get a piece of 1500 or 2000 grit sand paper to knock off the fibers and then a piece of leather or cardboard and burnish it to glass like finish. Wax also if you prefer.
Scotchbrite pads are murder on a wood or graphite shaft. They are sandpaper in a flexible pad. Don't use them because they remove the dirt, the finish, and the wood.
in this example I used the Mr Clean dry eraser dry. Someone suggested I wet the dry eraser however I am not sure if that will damage it. I used it on a rag, wiped off what I could that way then used the dry Mr Clean eraser.
I VARNISHED all my shafts while they were brand new. Then i matte them with a 1000 grid sandpaper, and periodically every now and then I clean them with a face cleansing pad soaked in isopropyl alcohol. They are all like just a brand new. To be honest, I use a billiards glove to play. Without the glove shafts would feel a little sticky, but with the glove they feel smooth like a silk. It's a pitty that ALL the manufacturers leave shafts unprotected and exposed to dirt and moisture.
sure, you can use glue too. lol... just kidding. Yes I have cleaned cues before using pledge and it worked fine but it does seem to strip the wax finish so you may have to rewax the cue. You can buy cheap a cue wax bar and rub it on and buff it yourself.
Someone already gave a good reply sorry it took so long to answer. If you manage to remove finish, just rub on some wax or liquid sealer for cues then burnish with leather and its like new again
th-cam.com/video/wMJSduAVweM/w-d-xo.html This link is a vid of the shaft showing NO DING after the cleaning so the shaft is NOT chipped, cracked or dings.
My friend took my cue for couple of days, as i went for vacation and as i back: i see that he has used sandpaper and now i cannot play with the cue, dont know if i can save the cue or not. it hurts my v area of bridge hand, i used powder, however i cannot play with gloves. i can see and feel the wood rubbing the skin, the grains are sharp and and i can see very tiny verticle holes ( not holes exactly but the distance between little wood/grain ). feels so bad, it hurts my bridge hand, ( feels like one layer has gone, i can see micro woods missing, and most of the grain area has sharps edges now) i bought wax and oil today, put wax and after few mints cleaned it with towel, and then put some oil for a day. gotta wait now.
Use wipeout dirt and stain remover instead of denatured alcohol since it's liquid... You need to let it sit, then wipe it out with clean cloth. No varnish will be removed, wood will not soften...
Rubbing alcohol and higher percentages can dry out the stick and can be used if you also oil or wax the cue after. Denatured alcohol is usually only about 70% pure so has oils in it still making it the perfect cleaner.
Never mind the grime. Good lord. You chipped the fkk out of that shaft. How can you stroke now with that huge chip? After cleaning that , you should sand and seal it .
th-cam.com/video/wMJSduAVweM/w-d-xo.html This link is a vid of the shaft showing NO DING after the cleaning so the shaft is NOT chipped, cracked or dings.
@YIRMASTER Sorry the comment was not directed at you but rather the person saying you need to sand and seal the shaft. I deal with this stuff on a daily basis as this is what I do for a living. Installing/servicing pool tables, selling pool cues and equipment, repairing pool cues and equipment. I do cleanings, tips, joint work, wraps. The only time I use sand paper on any shaft is if I am stripping the shaft to bare wood to steam dents out. then I will sand the old sealer off, steam the dents out, reseal the shaft and rewax/burnish to a perfectly smooth surface.
Thank you. I'll be putting this to use on my grandfather's cues that I inherited with his table.
LOL! 😂 I could not watch this video with a straight face but good cleaning tip 👍🏽
I can think of many uses for that majic eraser thanks,,you did a good job.
I recently used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser on a Viking Valhalla VAL-341 2015 Sneaky Pete cue I bought used. I dampened mine with warm water and rung it out and this is how they tell u to use them on the box they come in also. The shaft on the VAL-341 was heavily soiled in green and blue chalk. It came out super clean within about a minute's use. I also wiped the shaft off with a dry towel after using the eraser on it. Looked TOTALLY like a whole brand new pool cue, simply amazing! Afterwards I put a nice coat of wax on the cue shaft and let it soak into the wood overnight and then burnished it with a piece of un-dyed leather with minimal friction to buff and burnish the wax 12 hours or so later the next day. I also did this to a McDermott Lucky L12 (Dealer Customized L12 with solid black color of Irish Linen wrap, butt plate and joint collar color (# of units produced and name of dealer who customized it is unknown, McDermott won't say so don't ask please) cue that was semi-soiled in chalk the same night using the same procedure. Mr Clean Magic Eraser totally amazed me on this!
Mark A awesome glad it worked for you however water/moisture is the #1 Enemy of your shaft and could warp the wood.
nagis eraser is to abrasive , it will SAND your cue. not a good idea. keep doing that and you aill have a pencil soon.
will the denatured alcohol damage the cue.
Good stuff. When using DNA or IA (do not use "rubbing" A...it contains oils), frequently rotate the cloth to a clean section. Unless you do, you'll be pushing the chalk/dirt/mung into the wood. You want to get it all off the wood and into the cloth. When done, burnish the wood and then apply paste wax. Johnson's Paste Wax is good stuff. "Cue wax" is the same stuff at a higher price.
if you water the magic eraser, squeeze the exces water from it and then rub it over the shaft, its white in 3 - 4 rubs depending on how much dirt and how long the dirt has been on it, then just dry the shaft with some paper towells and it looks brand new, been doing it this way for the past 4 years on my shafts and they are still straight :-P
Water on your cue shaft is the worst thing you can do. Moisture is the #1 Enemy to your shaft, and a good way to raise the grain of the wood and warp it. You may actually want to burnish it later with leather.
i know what water is to wood, i studied woodwork but being wet for 5 seconds and getting dried instantly isnt going to warp my shaft, which is radial laminated and not 1 piece, but i understand :)
You are right and he is wrong , ITR Y56 . I have used a moistened Magic Eraser to clean my shaft and ferrule for nearly 20 years and it has NEVER warped and always looks clean and bright. The ferrule has NO chalk on it after cleaning. Water will not harm a cue if you dry it with a CLEAN paper towel right away and don't let the water sit on the bare wood.And there is nothing special about "denatured" alcohol ... it is just ethyl alcohol with methyl alcohol added to discourage stupid people from drinking it. It is just to make it unpalatable .It doesn't change the basic properties of ethanol. No need to take my word for it . Look it up . I just converted that 20 year old cue to a break cue since I have a newer playing cue .(a Pechauer that I love and also clean with a moistened Magic Eraser.)
Keep strokin it!
Then rub it down again!
I didn't once hear you mention the most important part; cupping the balls
I never thought I'd be on TH-cam searching a guy vigorously rubbing his shaft.
@@Jbainbridge5 LMAO😂😂
GOJO works the best hands down cleans in one application the pumice cleans the pores with out taking down the wood and the oils in it seals the wood Perfectly. I use to use alcohol but dries the wood . Mineral Spirits is in the GOJO and is great on wood. Just wipe it down with a dry cloth and you will see the shaft will look like new :) You can thank me later .
Great for cleaning the ferrule as well
My shaft comes out looking brand new, using only the Magic Eraser.
The best way to clean a shaft is rather not let the chalk stuck. You have to clean it after you play right away. The dirt will be removed right away with no effort. Works great for me and my shaft always look like new.
Sometimes no matter how often you wipe it, it can and will get built up in the grain of the wood and or finish.
What should I wipe it with after use?
What about Murphy’s Oil Soap? Wouldn’t that work too?
All you have to do with the denatured alcohol is dampen, not soak, a magic eraser and use it like that, then go right behind it with a clean dry cloth to make sure you get the excess liquid up right away. Putting that much denatured alcohol on the rag to that predator shaft is adding too much alcohol to the shaft spices which could make them separate and it has been done before. After you clean the shaft the fibers will stick up so you will want to get a piece of 1500 or 2000 grit sand paper to knock off the fibers and then a piece of leather or cardboard and burnish it to glass like finish. Wax also if you prefer.
And do not use a magic eraser on any part of your cue that has a finish on it. It will wear the finish off
Denatured alcohol won't have any left over liquids as they will evaporate quickly.
Did you sand off the factory finish? I've heard scotch brite pads also work.
Scotchbrite pads are murder on a wood or graphite shaft. They are sandpaper in a flexible pad. Don't use them because they remove the dirt, the finish, and the wood.
No not at all it is gentle
Do you wet the sponge with alcohol or just use it dry?
in this example I used the Mr Clean dry eraser dry. Someone suggested I wet the dry eraser however I am not sure if that will damage it. I used it on a rag, wiped off what I could that way then used the dry Mr Clean eraser.
hmm, seems like magic erasers are the consensus. cheers
I VARNISHED all my shafts while they were brand new. Then i matte them with a 1000 grid sandpaper, and periodically every now and then I clean them with a face cleansing pad soaked in isopropyl alcohol. They are all like just a brand new. To be honest, I use a billiards glove to play. Without the glove shafts would feel a little sticky, but with the glove they feel smooth like a silk.
It's a pitty that ALL the manufacturers leave shafts unprotected and exposed to dirt and moisture.
can i use furniture polish
sure, you can use glue too. lol... just kidding.
Yes I have cleaned cues before using pledge and it worked fine but it does seem to strip the wax finish so you may have to rewax the cue. You can buy cheap a cue wax bar and rub it on and buff it yourself.
Much better to get a warm moist towel and some Ajax and scrub. Lol.
Denatured alcohol, or rubbing alcohol, or does it even matter???
It matters! Rubbing alcohol contails oils. Denatured and isopropyl contain no oils.
Someone already gave a good reply sorry it took so long to answer. If you manage to remove finish, just rub on some wax or liquid sealer for cues then burnish with leather and its like new again
th-cam.com/video/wMJSduAVweM/w-d-xo.html
This link is a vid of the shaft showing NO DING after the cleaning so the shaft is NOT chipped, cracked or dings.
My friend took my cue for couple of days, as i went for vacation and as i back:
i see that he has used sandpaper and now i cannot play with the cue, dont know if i can save the cue or not.
it hurts my v area of bridge hand, i used powder, however i cannot play with gloves. i can see and feel the wood rubbing the skin, the grains are sharp and and i can see very tiny verticle holes ( not holes exactly but the distance between little wood/grain ).
feels so bad, it hurts my bridge hand, ( feels like one layer has gone, i can see micro woods missing, and most of the grain area has sharps edges now)
i bought wax and oil today, put wax and after few mints cleaned it with towel, and then put some oil for a day. gotta wait now.
Wax
Guess what? He’d be buying me a new shaft. Lesson learned. That’s a sad story, sorry to hear it.
Use wipeout dirt and stain remover instead of denatured alcohol since it's liquid... You need to let it sit, then wipe it out with clean cloth. No varnish will be removed, wood will not soften...
Just use pledge ,scotch bright and microfiber towels
Scotch Bright is an abrasive like using sandpaper. This does not remove any of the material or finish from your shaft.
2:35 😩
Why does my shaft can't be that dirty? I prefer my shaft to look dirty..look much cooler.
why denatured alcohol vs 90 percent alcohol ?? what's the difference
Rubbing alcohol and higher percentages can dry out the stick and can be used if you also oil or wax the cue after. Denatured alcohol is usually only about 70% pure so has oils in it still making it the perfect cleaner.
YIRMASTER thank you for the advice!
Never mind the grime. Good lord. You chipped the fkk out of that shaft. How can you stroke now with that huge chip?
After cleaning that , you should sand and seal it .
Flash Villa watch the vid after that cleaning its not a chip, looks like one but its a smooth shaft
th-cam.com/video/wMJSduAVweM/w-d-xo.html
This link is a vid of the shaft showing NO DING after the cleaning so the shaft is NOT chipped, cracked or dings.
ANY sanding of a Predator shaft automatically voids the warranty.
EmbraceTheSuck good thing it wasn't sanded. That's why I tell people never use abrasives
@YIRMASTER Sorry the comment was not directed at you but rather the person saying you need to sand and seal the shaft. I deal with this stuff on a daily basis as this is what I do for a living. Installing/servicing pool tables, selling pool cues and equipment, repairing pool cues and equipment. I do cleanings, tips, joint work, wraps. The only time I use sand paper on any shaft is if I am stripping the shaft to bare wood to steam dents out. then I will sand the old sealer off, steam the dents out, reseal the shaft and rewax/burnish to a perfectly smooth surface.
good jop pro
😮vertalen in het nederlands
Nooooooo.... Don't do this!!! just use a piece of plain A4 paper and rub until clean
Why not, it works like a charm and is recommended way of cleaning by many pool cue manufacturers.
I would say DO NOT use sandpaper on a cue stick, ever too abrasive.
Extra fine steel wool
Hans Nielsen that's an abrasive to
You need to be careful about removing the sealer by sanding with magic eraser. Over time with exposed pores the wood will take on moisture
That's why you reburnish it